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COOK'S  OWN   BOOK, 

AND 

HOUSEKEEPER'S    REGISTER: 

COMPREHENDirrO     ALL    VALUABLE     RECEIPTS 

FOR    COOKING   MEAT,    FISH,    AJVD    FOWL; 

AND    COMPOSING    EVERY    KIND    OF 

SOUP,  GRAVY,  PASTRY,  PRESERVES,  ESSENCES,  &c. 

THAT  HAVE  BEEN  PUBLISHED  OR  INVENTED 

DURING    THE    LAST    TWENTY    YEARS. 

WITH 

NUMEROUS    ORIGINAL    RECEIPTS, 

AND    A    COMPLETE    SYSTEM    OF 

COJVFECTIOJVERY. 


BY   A   BOSTON   HOUSEKEEPER. 

TO    WHICH    IS    ADDED, 

MISS    LESLIE'S    SEVENTY-FIVE    RECEIPTS 

FOR  PASTRY,  GA^BSs^A-m^SWEETMEATS. 


ALPHABETICALLY    ARRANGED, 
AKD    BLANlHpT|EMN^E|rE]i>,   F,OH   RAMiL??    V^if ORANDUMS. 


PUBLISHED, 
IN  BOSTON,  BY  MUNROE  &  FRANCIS ; 

NEW- YORK,  BY  CHARLES  S.  FRANCIS  ;  PHILADELPHIA,  BY  CAREY,  LEA, 
AND  BLANCHARD,   AND  GRIGG  AND  ELLIOT. 

1833. 


Entered,  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1833,  by 

MuNROE  &  Francis, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachusetts. 


^<*2' 


PREFACE. 


LIBa&KY 


The  cook  exercises  a  greater  power  over  the  public  health  and 
welfare  than  the  physician,  and  if  he  should  be  a  charlatan  in  his  art, 
alas !  for  his  employers.  Hitherto,  or  until  of  late  years,  the  cook 
has  had  to  educate  himself,  while  the  physician  appropriates  all  the 
knowledge  of  antiquity,  and  of  every  succeeding  age ;  his  individual 
cases  are  all  classed  according  to  general  principles,  while  the  rules 
that  have  regulated  the  preparation  of  our  food,  have  been  discordant 
and  unnatural.  In  the  present  age,  indeed,  cookery  has  been  raised 
to  the  dignity  of  an  art,  and  sa^es  have  given  their  treatises  to  the 
world.  Very  has  a  monument  in  the  cemetery  of  P^re  La  Chaise, 
among  the  tombs  of  warriors,  poets,  and  philosophers,  recording  of 
his  life  that  'it  was  consecrated  to  the  useful  arts.'  Virgil  however, 
writes  that  the  best  delights  of  Elysium  were  showered  upon  those 
who  received  wounds  for  their  country,  who  lived  unspotted  priests, 
who  uttered  verses  worthy  of  Apollo,  or  who,  like  V^ry,  consecrated 
their  lives  to  the  useful  arts.  On  the  utilitarian  principle  the  cook 
should  be  much  elevated  in  public  estimation,  and  were  he  to  form  a 
strict  alliance  with  the  physician,  the  patriarchal  ages  would  return, 
and  men  would  die  of  nothing  but  sheer  old  age. 

After  insanity,  the  most  grievous  affliction  of  Providence,  or  rather 
of  improvidence  and  imprudence,  is  Dyspepsy :  a  malady  that  under 
different  names  has  decimated  the  inhabitants  of  civilized  countries, 
and  of  almost  all  countries,  in  which  man  is  a  *  cooking  animal.'  To 
the  dyspeptic,  the  sun  has  no  cheering  ray,  the  air  no  elasticity  or 
balm ;  the  flowers  are  without  fragrance,  music  is  without  melody, 
and  beauty  without  charms.  Life  is  a  blank ;  affection  has  lost  its 
power  to  soothe,  and  the  blessings  scattered  by  Providence,  are  con- 
verted into  ministers  of  torment.  Food  becomes  a  bane ;  the  very 
staff  that  supports  life,  gives  the  flagellation  that  renders  life  a  curse. 
All  that  can  delight  is  lost, — but  all  that  can  depress  and  sting,  has  a 
tenfold  activity  and  power. 


IV  PREFACE. 

The  dyspeptic's  <  May  of  life,  has  fallen  into  the  sear,  the  yellow 
leaf.*  Sleep  that  should  visit  every  pillow  but  that  of  guilt,  is  to  him 
no  friend ;  if  he  slumbers,  it  is  to  dream,  like  Clarence,  of  hideous 
forms  of  suffering,  and  to  wake  to  their  reahty.  This  is  but  a  faint 
picture  of  Dyspepsy. 

*  Her  gloomy  presence  saddens  all  the  scene. 
Shades  every  flower  and  daikens  eveiy  green. 
Deepens  the  murmur  of  the  falling  floods, 
And  breathes  a  browner  horror  ^  tlie  woods.* 

This  malady  is  beyond  the  science  of  the  physician,  but  within  the 
art  of  the  cook ;  in  the  proverb.  Doctor  Diet  is  ranked  above  Dpctor 
Quiet  and  Doctor  Merryman ;  though  all  are  good. 

The  late  Mr.  Abernethy  referred  almost  all  maladies  to  the  stom- 
ach, and  seldom  prescribed  any  remedy  but  a  proper  diet.  This  it  is 
the  province  of  the  cook  to  provide ;  and  the  design  of  this  book  to 
indicate.  The  work  is  not  designed  to  spread  a  taste  for  pernicious 
luxuries:  and  every  recipe  has  been  sanctioned  by  custom.  The 
responsibility  of  the  cook  is  lightened,  and  his  duty  facilitated.  He 
has  here  a  dictionary  of  reference,  an  encyclopedia  of  his  art.  The 
details  are  full,  and  the  authority  is  perfect.  There  were  various 
works  of  merit  that  it  was  useful  for  the  cook  to  study,  but  here  are 
collected  Jdie  beet  parts  of  all,  with  the  convenience  of  alphabetical 
arrangement,  and  in  the  compass  of  a  moderate  volume.  If  it  is  a 
sin  to  waste  the  best  gifts  of  Providence,  it  should  be  little  less  than 
a  felony  to  spoil  them.  When  we  have  collected  the  materials  for  a 
house,  we  never  trust  the  building  to  an  unskilful  architect:  yet  we 
are  often  obliged  to  commit  the  preparation  of  our  feasts  as  well  as 
of  our  common  food,  to  agents  without  knowledge.  This  knowledge 
is  now  supplied. 

More  than  health  depends  on  the  proper  preparation  of  food :  our 
very  virtues  are  the  creatures  of  circumstances,  and  many  a  man  has 
hardened  his  heart,  or  given  up  a  good  resolution,  under  the  operation 
of  indigestion.  Who  that  knows  the  world,  ever  solicits  with  confi- 
dence a  friendly  or  charitable  act  of  another  before  dinner. 

The  natural  and  moral  world  are  reciprocally  dependent ;  soul  and 
body  are  so  linked,  that  when  one  loses  its  tone  the  other  is  deprived 
of  its  equanimity.  The  system  of  morals  therefore  becomes  identi- 
fied with  that  of  cookery,  and  the  great  English  moralist,  who  was 
learned  in  both  systems,  thus  spoke  of  the  connexion  ;  <  Some  peo- 
ple '  said  Doctor  Johnson,  '  have  a  foolish  way  of  not  minding,  or  of 
pretending  not  to  mind,  what  they  eat.  I  for  my  part  mind  my  belly 
very  studiously,  and  very  carefully,  and  I  look  upon  it  that  he  who 
does  not  mind  his  belly  will  hardly  mind  any  thing  else.' 


PREFACE.  V 

It  has  been  the  study  of  the  author,  to  make  every  recipe  plain, 
and  the  proportions  certain ;  little  is  left  to  discretion,  that  could  be 
reduced  to  measure.  The  system  of  confectionery  is  perfect ;  and  if 
strictly  followed  every  cook  may  become  a  first  rate  confectioner. 
Labor,  care,  and  expense  have  been  bestowed  upon  the  work,  and  the 
publishers  feel  so  secure  of  its  merit,  and  of  the  public  want  of  such  a 
book,  that  they  have  caused  it  to  be  stereotyped.  This  would  have 
been  hazardous  with  a  novel  or  almost  any  literary  work ;  but  the 
number  of  those  who  eat  is  far  greater  than  of  those  who  read.  A 
good  book  few  can  estimate ;  all  can  enjoy  a  good  dinner,  and  the 
publishers  anticipate  a  proportionate  encouragement. 

Having  devised  this  work  for  families,  we  hope  that  it  may  offend 
no  one,  that  we  give  a  word  of  counsel  to  domestics:  our  book  may 
be  every  way  good,  yet  will  its  usefulness  be  much  impaired  if  do- 
mestics are  not  docile  and  faithful. 

We  have  fortunately,  in  this  country,  but  one  class  of  people :  all 
are  free,  and  all  are  politically  equal.  Our  domestics  are  in  New 
England  designated  as  help^  to  indicate  that  they  are  the  equals,  and 
assistants,  rather  than  the  inferiors  of  their  employers.  Yet  the 
feeling  of  independence  may  be  carried  too  far,  and  it  may  be  ungra- 
ciously expressed.  There  is  no  disgrace,  and  there  should  be  no 
shame  in  filling  well  a  subordinate  station;  the  hired  ploughman, 
maid,  or  cook  are  not,  in  an  offensive  sense,  any  more  the  servants  of 
their  employers,  than  the  merchant  and  the  lawyer.  All  these  engage 
to  perform  certain  services  for  an  equivalent,  and  it  is  the  duty  of  all 
to  do  them  faithfully. 

The  number  of  domestics  is  very  large  —  perhaps  the  average  is 
five  to  four  families — and  it  may  be  even  greater.  Yet,  unfortunate- 
ly for  their  welfare,  interest,  or  character,  they  are  almost  constantly 
shifting,  and  in  few  families  do  they  remain  long.  In  England,  a 
good  domestic  is  often  provided  for  during  life,  and  it  is  a  desirable 
situation.  It  might  be  so  here,  if  our  domestics  would  strive  to  ac- 
commodate themselves  to  their  situation.  There  is  hardly  a  family, 
in  which  a  kind,  respectful,  and  faithful  domestic  might  not  be  regained 
for  yeais,  and  at  the  best  wages.  Here  then  is  a  home,  comfort,  and 
friends.  Yet  the  greater  number  are  contented  to  live  a  few  months 
in  a  place,  till  the  best  years  of  life  have  slipped  away,  without  pro- 
vision for  age,  and  without  friends,  or  home.  The  proverb  of  the 
rolling  stone  contains  the  best  lesson  for  domestics. 

Service  in  any  department  is  no  sacrifice  of  independence.  A 
domestic  is  in  all  things  as  free  as  any  other  class,  but  it  is  a 
bad  kind  of  independence  that  would  lead  one,  when  desired  to  do  a 


TI  PREFACE. 

thing  in  the  line  of  a  common  employment,  to  do  it  ungraciously, 
and  rather  as  an  irksome  or  unjust  task,  than  as  a  duty. 

Minor  vexations,  frequently  repeated,  are  equal  to  greater  individ- 
ual calamities;  as  many  small  enjoyments  constitute  much  of  the 
pleasures  of  life.  Around  the  social  board  every  member  of  the  fam- 
ily is  collected  thrice  at  least  in  twenty-four  hours.  Thither  the 
head  of  the  family  returns  from  the  labors  or  cares  of  his  business  to 
recruit  his  strength  and  to  relax  his  mind.  If  he  return  to  a  table 
constantly  and  invariably  ill  spread ;  to  a  dinner  to  which  he  could 
invite  no  friend,  and  in  which  he  can  have  no  enjoyment;  a  cloud 
will  gather  on  the  calmest  brow,  and  a  feeling  of  dissatisfaction  may 
be  extended  to  other  things.  It  is  not  beneath  the  solicitude  of  a 
good  wife,  who  would  not  suffer  any  abatement  in  the  affection  of 
which  she  is  the  object,  dihgently  to  study  this  book,  and  constantly 
to  provide  a  neat  and  well  dressed  repast. 

Boston,  Mai-ch,  1832. 


%*  The   articles   which  follow j   on  Roasting ^   Boilings  S^c.  are 
selected  from  the  Cook's   Oracle. 


V^      or  THK  '  f^ 

'UFI7SESITT,; 

MANAGmETtr-TTf^ 


In  domestic  arrangement  the  table  is  entitled  to  no  small  share 
of  attention,  as  a  well  conducted  system  of  domestic  management 
is  the  foundation  of  every  comfort;  and  the  respectability  and 
welfare  of  families  depend  in  a  great  measure  on  the  prudent 
conduct  of  the  female,  whose  province  it  is  to  manage  the  domes- 
tic concerns. 

However  the  fortunes  of  individuals  may  support  a  large  expen- 
diture, it  will  be  deficient  in  all  that  can  benefit  or  grace  society, 
and  in  every  thing  essential  to  moral  order  and  rational  happiness, 
if  not  conducted  on  a  regular  system,  embracing  all  the  objects 
of  such  a  situation. 

In  domestic  management,  as  in  education,  so  much  must  depend 
on  the  particular  circumstances  of  every  case,  that  it  is  impossible 
to  lay  down  a  system  which  can  be  generally  applicable. 

The  immediate  plan  of  every  family  must  be  adapted  to  its  own 
peculiar  situation,  and  can  only  result  from  the  good  sense  and 
early  good  habits  of  the  parties,  acting  upon  general  rational 
principles. 

What  one  family  is  to  do,  must  never  be  measured  by  what 
another  family  does.  Each  one  knows  its  own  resources,  and 
should  consult  them  alone.  What  might  be  meanness  in  one, 
might  be  extravagance  in  another,  and  therefore  there  can  be  no 
standard  of  reference  but  that  of  individual  prudence.  The  most 
fatal  of  all  things  to  private  families,  is  to  indulge  an  ambition  to 
make  an  appearance  above  their  fortunes,  professions,  or  business, 
whatever  these  may  be. 

The  next  point,  both  for  comfort  and  respectability,  is,  that  all 
the  household  economy  should  be  uniform,  not  displaying  a  parade 
of  show  in  one  thing,  and  a  total  want  of  comfort  in  another.  Be- 
sides the  contemptible  appearance  that  this  must  have  to  every 
person  of  good  sense,  it  is  productive  of  consequences,  not  only  of 
present,  but  future  injury  to  a  family,  that  are  too  often  irreparable. 

In  great  cities  in  particular,  how  common  is  it  that  for  the  vani- 
ty of  having  a  showy  drawing-room  to  receive  company,  the  family 
are  confined  to  a  close  back  room,  where  they  have  scarcely  either 
air  or  light,  the  want  of  which  must  materially  prejudice  their 
health. 

To  keep  rooms  for  show,  where  the  fortune  is  equal  to  having 
a  house  that  will  accommodate  the  family  properly,  and  admit  of 
this  also,  belongs  to  the  highest  sphere  of  life ;  but  in  private  fam- 
ilies, to  shut  up  the  only  room  perhaps  in  the  house  which  is  really 
wholesome  for  the  family  to  live  in,  is  inflicting  a  kind  of  lingering 


VIU  FAMILY    MANAGEMENT. 

murder  upon  the  inmates;  and  yet  how  frequently  this  considera- 
tion escapes  persons  who  mean  well  by  their  family,  but  who  still 
have  a  grate,  a  carpet,  and  chairs,  too  fine  for  every  day's  use. 

Another  fruit  of  this  evil  is,  seeing  more  company,  and  in  a 
more  expensive  manner  than  is  compatible  with  the  general  con- 
venience of  the  family,  introducing  with  it  an  expense  in  dress, 
and  a  dissijmtion  of  time,  from  which  it  suffers  in  various  ways. 

Social  intercourse  is  not  improved  by  parade,  but  quite  the 
contrary;  real  friends,  and  the  pleasantest  kind  of  acquaintance, 
those  who  like  to  be  sociable,  are  repulsed  by  it.  It  is  a  failure 
therefore  every  way — the  loss  of  what  is  really  valuable,  and  an 
abortive  attempt  to  be  fashionable. 

A  fundamental  error  in  domestic  life  of  very  serious  extent, 
involving  no  less  the  comfort  than  the  health  of  the  family,  arises 
from  the  ignorance  or  mistaken  notions  of  the  mistress  of  the  house 
upon  the  subjects  of  diet  and  cookery. 

The  subject  of  cookery  is  thought  by  too  many  women  to  be 
below  their  attention,  or,  when  practically  engaged  in,  it  is  with 
no  other  consideration  about  it  than,  in  the  good  housewife's 
phrase,  to  make  the  most  of  every  thing,  whether  good,  bad,  or 
indifferent;  or  to  contrive  a  thousand  mischievous  compositions, 
both  savory  and  sweet,  to  recommend  their  own  ingenuity. 

If  cookery  is  worth  studying,  as  a  sensual  gratification,  it  is 
surely  much  more  so  as  a  means  of  securing  one  of  the  greatest  of 
human  blessings — good  health;  and  we  cannot  quit  this  part  of  the 
subject  of  domestic  management  without  observing,  that  one  cause 
of  a  great  deal  of  injurious  cookery  originates  in  the  same  vanity 
of  show  that  is  productive  of  so  many  other  evils.  In  order  to 
set  out  a  table  with  a  greater  number  of  dishes  than  the  situation 
of  the  family  requires,  more  cookery  is  often  undertaken  than 
there  are  servants  to  do  it  well,  or  conveniences  in  the  kitchen  for 
the  purpose.  Thus  some  viands  are  done  before  they  are  wanted 
for  serving  up,  and  stand  by  spoiling,  to  make  room  for  others; 
these  are  again  perhaps  to  be  succeeded  by  something  else;  and 
too  often  are  things  served  up  that  had  better  be  thrown  away, 
than  to  be  used  for  food. 

The  leading  consideration  about  food  ought  always  to  be  its 
wholesomeness.  Cookery  may  produce  savory  and  pretty  looking 
dishes  without  their  possessing  any  of  the  qualities  of  food.  It  is 
at  the  same  time  both  a  serious  and  ludicrous  reflection  that  it 
should  be  thought  to  do  honor  to  our  friends  and  ourselves  to  set 
out  a  table  where  indigestion  and  all  its  train  of  evils,  such  as 
fever,  rheumatism,  gout,  and  the  whole  catalogue  of  human  dis- 
eases lie  lurking  in  almost  every  dish.  Yet  this  is  both  done,  and 
taken  as  a  compliment.  We  have  indeed  the  "  unbought  grace 
of  polished  society,  where  gluttony  loses  half  its  vice  by  being 
stripped  of  its  grossness."  When  a  man  at  a  public  house  dies  of 
a  surfeit  of  beef  steak  and  porter,  who  does  not  exclaim,  what  a 
beast  f 


COOKING   UTENSILS.  IX 

How  infinitely  preferable  is  a  dinner  of  far  less  show  where 
nobody  need  be  afraid  of  what  they  are  eating!  and  such  a  one 
will  be  genteel  and  respectable.  If  a  person  can  give  his  friend 
only  a  leg  of  mutton,  there  is  nothing  to  be  ashamed  of  in  it,  pro- 
vided it  is  a  good  one,  and  well  dressed. 

A  house  fitted  up  with  plain  good  furniture,  the  kitchen  fur- 
nished with  clean  wholesome-looking  cooking  utensils,  good  fires, 
in  grates  that  give  no  anxiety  lest  a  good  fire  should  spoil  them, 
clean  good  table  linen,  the  furniture  of  the  table  and  sideboard 
good  of  the  kind,  without  ostentation,  and  a  well-dressed  plain 
dinner,  bespeak  a  sound  judgment  and  correct  taste  in  a  private 
family,  that  place  it  on  a  footing  of  respectability  with  the  first 
characters  in  the  country.  It  is  only  the  conforming  to  our  sphere, 
not  the  vainly  attempting  to  be  above  it,  that  can  command  true 
respect. 

COOKING  UTENSILS. 

The  various  utensils  uspd  for  the  preparation  and  keeping  of 
food  are  made  either  of  metal,  glass,  pottery  ware,  or  wood;  each 
of  which  is  better  suited  to  some  particular  purposes  than  the 
others.  Metallic  utensils  are  quite  unfit  for  many  uses,  and  the 
knowledge  of  this  is  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  health  in 
general,  and  sometimes  to  the  prevention  of  immediate  dangerous 
consequences. 

The  metals  commonly  used  in  the  construction  of  these  vessels 
are  silver,  copper,  brass,  tin,  iron,  and  lead.  Silver  is  prefera- 
ble to  all  the  others,  because  it  cannot  be  dissolved  by  any  of  the 
substances  used  as  food.  Brimstone  unites  with  silver,  and  forms 
a  thin  brittle  crust  over  it,  that  gives  it  the  appearance  of  being 
tarnished,  which  may  be  accidentally  taken  with  food;  but  this 
is  not  particularly  unwholesome,  nor  is  it  liable  to  be  taken  often, 
nor  in  large  quantities.  The  discoloring  of  silver  spoons  used 
with  eggs  arises  from  the  brimstone  contained  in  eggs. — Nitre  or 
saltpetre  has  also  a  slight  eflTect  upon  silver,  but  nitre  and  silver 
seldom  remain  long  enough  together  in  domestic  uses  to  require 
any  particular  caution. 

Copper  and  brass  are  both  liable  to  be  dissolved  by  vinegar, 
acid  fruits,  and  pearl-ash.  Such  solutions  are  highly  poisonous, 
and  great  caution  should  be  used  to  prevent  accidents  of  the  kind. 
Vessels  made  of  these  metals  are  generally  tinned,  that  is,  lined 
with  a  thin  coating  of  a  mixed  metal,  containing  both  tin  and  lead. 
Neither  acids,  nor  any  thing  containing  pearl-ash,  should  ever  be 
suff*ered  to  remain  above  an  hour  in  vessels  of  this  kind,  as  the 
tinning  is  dissolvable  by  acids,  and  the  coating  is  seldom  perfect 
over  the  surface  of  the  copper  or  brass. 

The  utensils  made  of  what  is  called  block  tin  are  constructed 
of  iron  plates  coated  with  tin.  This  is  equally  to  be  dissolved  as 
the  tinning  of  copper  or  brass  vessels,  but  iron  is  not  an  unwhole- 


X  DIET. 

some  substance,  if  even  a  portion  of  it  should  be  dissolved  and 
mixed  in  the  food.  Iron  is  therefore  one  of  the  safest  metals  for 
the  construction  of  culinary  utensils;  and  the  objection  to  its  more 
extensive  use  only  rests  upon  its  liability  to  rust,  so  that  it  requires 
more  cleaning  and  soon  decays.  Some  articles  of  food,  such  as 
quinces,  orange  peel,  artichokes,  &.c.  are  blackened  by  remaining 
in  iron  vessels,  which  therefore  must  not  be  used  for  them. 

Leaden  vessels  are  very  unwholesome,  and  should  never  be 
used  for  milk  and  cream,  if  it  be  ever  likely  to  stand  till  it  become 
sour.  They  are  unsafe  also  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  salted 
meats. 

The  best  kind  of  pottery  ware  is  oriental  china,  because  the 
glazing  is  a  perfect  glass,  which  cannot  be  dissolved,  and  the 
whole  substance  is  so  compact  that  liquid  cannot  penetrate  it. 
Many  of  the  English  pottery  wares  are  badly  glazed,  and  as  the 
glazing  is  made  principally  of  lead,  it  is  necessary  to  avoid  put- 
ting vinegar,  and  other  acids  into  them.  Acids  and  greasy  sub- 
stances penetrate  into  unglazed  wares,  excepting  the  strong  stone 
ware;  or  into  those  of  which  the  glazing  is  cracked,  and  hence 
give  a  bad  flavor  to  any  thing  they  are  used  for  afterwards.  They 
are  quite  unfit  therefore  for  keeping  pickles  or  salted  meats. 
Glass  vessels  are  infinitely  preferable  to  any  pottery  ware  but 
oriental  china,  and  should  be  used  whenever  the  occasion  admits 
of  it. 

Wooden  vessels  are  very  proper  for  the  keeping  many  articles 
of  food,  and  should  always  be  preferred  to  those  lined  with  lead. 
If  any  substance  has  fermented  or  become  putrid  in  a  wooden 
cask  or  tub,  it  is  sure  to  taint  the  vessel  so  as  to  make  it  liable  to 
produce  a  similar  eflfect  upon  any  thing  that  may  be  put  into  it  in 
future.  It  is  useful  to  char  the  insides  of  these  wooden  vessels 
before  they  are  used,  by  burning  wood  shavings  in  them,  so  as  to 
coat  the  insides  with  a  crust  of  charcoal. 

As  whatever  contaminates  food  in  any  way  must  be  sure,  from 
the  repetition  of  its  baneful  effects,  to  injure  the  health,  a  due 
precaution  with  respect  to  all  culinary  vessels  is  necessary  for  its 
more  certain  preservation.  There  is  a  kind  of  hollow  iron  ware 
lined  with  enamel,  which  is  superior  to  every  other  utensil  for 
sauces  or  preserves:  indeed  it  is  preferable  for  every  purpose. 


DIET. 

That  we  require  food,  as  vegetables  require  water,  to  support 
our  existence,  is  the  primary  consideration  upon  which  we  should 
take  it.  But  in  our  general  practice  of  eating,  it  cannot  be  said, 
**we  eat  to  live,"  but  are  living  passages  or  channels,  through 
which  we  are  constantly  propelling  both  solids  and  fluids,  for  the 
sal^  of  pleading  our  palates,  at  the  severe  cost  often  of  our  whole 
eysfem. 


DIET.  XI 

A  reasonable  indulgence  in  the  abundant  supplies  of  nature, 
converted  by  art  to  the  purposes  of  wholesome  food,  is  one  of  the 
comforts  added  to  the  maintenance  of  life.  It  is  an  indiscriminate 
gratification  of  our  tastes,  regardless  of  the  consequences  that 
may  ensue  from  it,  that  is  alone  blamable.  But  so  great  is  our 
general  apathy  in  these  respects,  that  even  on  the  occurrence  of 
diseases,  from  which  we  are  all  more  or  less  sufferers,  we  scarce- 
ly ever  reflect  on  our  diet,  as  the  principal,  if  not  the  sole  cause 
of  them.  We  assign  them  to  weather,  to  infection,  to  hereditary 
descent,  to  spontaneous  breeding,  as  if  a  disease  could  originate 
without  a  cause;  or  to  any  frivolous  imaginary  source,  without 
suspecting,  or  being  willing  to  own,  mismanagement  of  ourselves. 

We  derive  the  renewal  of  our  blood  and  juices,  which  are  con- 
stantly exhausting,  from  the  substances  we  take  as  food.  As  our 
food,  therefore,  is  proper  or  improper,  too  much  or  too  little,  so 
will  our  blood  and  juices  be  good  or  bad,  overcharged  or  deficient, 
and  our  state  of  health  accordingly  good  or  diseased. 

By  aliment,  or  food,  is  to  be  understood  whatever  we  eat  or 
drink,  including  seasonings;  such  as  salt,  sugar,  spices,  vinegar, 
&c.  &c.  Every  thing,  in  short,  which  we  receive  into  our  sto- 
machs. Our  food,  therefore,  consists  not  only  of  such  particles 
as  are  proper  for  the  nourishment  and  support  of  the  human  body, 
but  likewise  contains  certain  active  principles,  viz.  salts,  oils,  and 
spirits,  which  have  the  properties  of  stimulating  the  solids,  quick- 
ening the  circulation,  and  making  the  fluids  thinner;  thus  render- 
ing them  more  suited  to  undergo  the  necessary  secretions  of  the 
body. 

The  art  of  preserving  health,  and  obtaining  long  life,  therefore 
consists  in  the  use  of  a  moderate  quantity  of  such  diet  as  shall 
neither  increase  the  salts  and  oils,  so  as  to  produce  disease,  nor 
diminish  them,  so  as  to  suffer  the  solids  to  become  relaxed. 

It  is  very  difficult,  almost  impossible,  to  ascertain  exactly  what 
are  the  predominant  qualities  either  in  our  bodies  or  in  the  food 
we  eat.  In  practice,  therefore,  we  can  have  no  other  rule  but 
observing  by  experience  what  it  is  that  hurts  or  does  us  good; 
and  what  it  is  our  stomach  can  digest  with  facility,  or  the  contrary. 
But  then  we  must  keep  our  judgment  unbiassed,  and  not  suffer  it 
to  become  a  pander  to  the  appetite,  and  thus  betray  the  stomach 
and  health,  to  indulge  our  sensuality. 

The  eating  too  little  is  hurtful,  as  well  as  eating  too  much. 
Neither  excess,  nor  hunger,  nor  any  thing  else  that  passes  the 
bounds  of  nature,  can  be  good  to  man. 

By  loading  the  stomach,  fermentation  is  checked,  and  of  course 
digestion  impeded;  for  the  natural  juice  of  the  stomach  has  not 
room  to  exert  itself,  and  it  therefore  nauseates  its  contents,  is 
troubled  with  eructations,  the  spirits  are  oppressed,  obstructions 
ensue,  and  fever  is  the  consequence.  Besides,  that  when  thus 
overfilled,  the  stomach  presses  on  the  diaphragm,  prevents  the 
proper  play  of  the  lungs,  and  occasions  uneasiness  in  our  breath- 


•Xn  DIET. 

ing.  Hence  arise  various  ill  symptoms  and  depraved  effects 
throughout  the  body,  enervating  the  strength,  decaying  the  senses, 
hastening  old  age,  and  shortening  life.  Though  these  effects  are 
not  immediately  perceived,  yet  they  are  certain  attendants  of 
intemperance;  for  it  has  been  generally  observed  in  great  eaters, 
that,  though  from  custom,  a  state  of  youth,  and  a  strong  constitu- 
tion, they  have  no  present  inconvenience,  but  have  digested  their 
food,  suffered  surfeit,  and  borne  their  immoderate  diet  well ;  if  they 
have  not  been  unexpectedly  cut  off,  they  have  found  the  symptoms 
of  old  age  come  on  early  in  life,  attended  with  pains  and  innume- 
rable disorders. 

If  we  value  our  health,  we  must  ever  make  it  a  rule  not  to  eat 
to  satiety  or  fulness,  but  desist  while  the  stomach  feels  quite  easy. 
Thus  we  shall  be  refreshed,  light,  and  cheerful;  not  dull,  heavy, 
or  indisposed.  Should  we  ever  be  tempted  to  eat  too  much  at  one 
time,  we  should  eat  the  less  at  another.  Thus,  if  our  dinner  has 
been  larger  than  usual,  let  our  supper  be  less,  or  rather  quite 
omitted;  for  there  is  no  man,  however  careful  of  his  health,  who 
does  not  occasionally  transgress  in  this  way. 

With  regard  to  the  times  of  eating,  they  must  to  a  certain  degree 
be  conformed  to  family  convenience,  but  ought  to  be  quite  inde- 
pendent of  the  caprices  of  fashion.  The  great  things  to  be  guard- 
ed against  are,  either  eating  too  soon  after  a  former  meal,  or 
fasting  too  long. — The  stomach  should  always  have  time  to  empty 
itself  before  it  is  filled  again. 

Some  stomachs  digest  their  contents  sooner  than  others,  and  if 
long  empty  it  may  destroy  the  appetite,  and  greatly  disturb  both 
the  head  and  animal  spirits;  for,  from  the  great  profusion  of  nerves 
spread  upon  the  stomach,  there  is  an  immediate  sympathy  between 
that  and  the  head.  Hence  the  head  is  sure  to  be  affected  by 
whatever  disorders  the  stomach,  whether  from  any  particular  ali- 
ment that  disagrees  with  it,  or  being  overfilled,  or  too  long  empty. 
Such  as  feel  a  gnawing  in  the  stomach,  as  it  is  called,  should  not 
wait  till  the  stated  time  of  the  next  meal,  but  take  a  small  quanti- 
ty of  light,  easily  digested  food,  that  the  stomach  may  have  some- 
thing to  work  on. 

Young  persons  in  health,  who  use  much  exercise,  may  eat  three 
times  a  day.  But  such  as  are  in  years,  such  as  are  weak,  as  do 
no  work,  use  no  exercise,  or  lead  a  sedentary  life,  eating  twice  in 
the  day  is  sufficient ;  or,  as  in  the  present  habits  of  society,  it  might 
be  difficult  to  arrange  the  taking  only  two  meals,  ]et  them  take 
three  very  moderate  ones.  Old  and  weak  persons  may  eat  oflen, 
but  then  it  should  be  very  little  at  a  time. 

The  quality  of  our  food  is  a  subject  of  greater  difficulty  than 
the  quantity;  moderation  is  an  invariably  safe  guide  in  the  latter 
instance;  but  though  always  favorable  to  prevent  ill  effects  from 
any  error  in  quality,  it  will  not  always  be  effectual. 

To  a  person  in  good  health,  with  a  strong  stomach,  and  whose 
constant  beverage  is  water,  cold  or  tepid,  according  to  the  sea- 


DIET.  3011 

aoxif  or  some  aqueous  liquor,  the  niceties  of  choice  in  food  or 
cookery  are  less  material  than  to  persons  with  naturally  weak  sto- 
(inachs,  or  to  those  in  sickness,  or  for  children.  But  all  persons 
who  would  to  a  certainty  preserve  their  health  and  faculties,  and 
live  out  the  natural  term  of  life,  should  use  plain  food,  as  all  high 
seasonings  and  compound  mixtures  have  an  injurious  effect,  soon- 
er or  later,  on  the  strongest  constitutions.  If  a  few  instances  can 
be  quoted  to  the  contrary,  these,  like  other  anomalies  in  nature, 
cannot  constitute  an  exception  to  a  well  established  fact. 

No  part  of  our  aliment  is  more  important  than  our  beverage. 
It  is  essential  to  moisten  and  convey  our  more  solid  food  into  the 
stomach,  and  from  thence  to  the  respective  parts  of  the  body.  To 
allay  thirst,  to  dilute  the  blood,  that  it  may  circulate  through  the 
minutest  vessels,  to  dissolve  and  carry  off  by  the  watery  secre- 
tions the  superfluous  salts  we  take  in  our  food;  to  answer  these 
purposes  no  liquid  is  so  effectual  as  pure  water,  with  the  exception 
of  some  few  cases.  No  other  liquid  circulates  so  well,  or  mixes  so 
immediately  with  our  fluids.  All  other  liquors  are  impregnated 
with  particles  which  act  strongly  upon  the  solids  or  fluids,  or  both; 
but  water  being  simple,  operates  only  by  diluting,  moistening,  and 
cooling,  which  are  the  great  uses  of  drink  pointed  out  to  us  by 
nature.  Hence  it  is  evident  that  water  is  in  general  the  best  and 
most  wholesome  drink;  but  some  constitutions  require  something 
to  warm  and  stimulate  the  stomach,  and  then  fermented  liquors 
taken  in  moderation  are  proper;  such  as  beer,  ale,  cider,  wine, 
h-c.  the  choice  and  quantity  of  which  depend  on  the  age,  consti- 
tution, and  manner  of  living  of  the  drinker;  and  to  have  them 
pure  is  above  all  things  essential;  as  otherwise,  instead  of  being 
of  any  benefit,  they  will  be  highly  detrimental. 

Drams,  or  distilled  spirituous  liquors,  the  use  of  which  is  unhap- 
pily very  prevalent,  are  of  the  most  poisonous  qualities;  and  from 
their  direful  effects  are  the  destruction  of  thousands.  From  the 
degree  of  heat  they  have  undergone  in  distillation  they  acquire  a 
corrosive  and  burning  quality,  which  makes  them  as  certain  to 
kill  as  laudanum  or  arsenic,  though  not  so  soon.  They  contract 
the  fibres  and  vessels  of  the  body,  especially  where  they  are 
*the  tenderest,  as  in  the  brain,  and  thus  destroy  the  intellectual 
faculties.  They  injure  the  coat  of  the  stomach,  and  thus  expose 
the  nerves  and  weaken  the  fibres  till  the  whole  stomach  becomes 
at  last  soft,  flabby,  and  relaxed.  From  whence  ensues  loss  of 
appetite,  indigestion,  and  diseases  that  generally  terminate  in 
premature  death.  Spirituous  liquors  in  any  way,  whether  alone, 
mixed  with  water,  in  punch,  shrub,  noyau,  or  other  liqueurs,  are 
all  slow  poisons. 

It  would  be  endless  to  enter  on  an  account  of  the  different  quali- 
ties of  all  sorts  of  wines,  but  it  may  be  said  in  general,  that  all 
the  light  wines  of  a  moderate  strength,  due  age  and  maturity,  are 
more  wholesome  for  ihe  constitution  than  the  rich,  hot,  strong, 


XIV  BOILINO. 

heavy  wines;  for  the  light  wines  inflame  the  juices  of  the  body 
less  and  go  off  the  stomach  with  less  difficulty. 

The  last  thing  to  be  said  concerning  liquors  is,  that  wine  and 
all  other  strong  liquors,  are  as  hard  to  digest  as  solid  strong  food. 
This  is  not  only  evident  with  respect  to  persons  of  weak  stomachs 
and  digestion,  but  also  from  strong  healthy  people,  who  only 
drink  either  water  or  small  beer  at  their  meals,  and  are  able  to 
eat  and  digest  almost  double  the  quantity  of  what  they  could  if 
they  drank  strong  liquors.  It  appears  very  plain,  therefore,  that 
we  should  not  drink  strong  liquors  at  our  meals,  as  by  their  heat, 
and  activity  they  hurry  the  food  undigested  into  the  habit  of  the 
body,  and  by  that  means  lay  a  foundation  for  various  distempers. 
An  abstinence,  in  short,  from  fermented  liquors  would  preserve 
our  mental  faculties  in  vigor,  and  our  bodies  from  many  painful 
disorders  that  afflict  mankind,  as  there  is  no  doubt  that  we  may 
principally  ascribe  to  them  the  gout,  rheumatism,  stone,  cancer, 
fevers,  hysterics,  lunacy,  apoplexy,  and  palsy. 


BOILING. 

This  most  simple  of  culinary  processes  is  not  often  performed  in 
perfection.  It, does  not  require  quite  so  much  nicety  and  atten- 
dance as  roasting  ;  to  skim  your  pot  well,  and  keep  it  really  boiling 
(the  slower  the  better)  all  the  while,  to  know  how  long  is  required 
for  doing  the  joint,  &c.,  and  to  take  it  up  at  the  critical  moment 
when  it  is  done  enough,  comprehends  almost  the  whole  art  and 
mystery.  This,  however,  demands  a  patient  and  perpetual  vigi- 
lance, of  which  few  persons  are  capable. 

The  cook  must  take  especial  care  that  the  water  really  boils  all 
the  while  she  is  cooking,  or  she  will  be  deceived  in  the  time  ;  and 
make  up  a  sufficient  fire  at  first,  to  last  all  the  time,  without  much 
mending  or  stirring.  A  frugal  cook  will  manage  with  much  less 
fire   for  boiling  than  she  uses  for  roasting. 

When  the  pot  is  coming  to  a  boil  there  will  always,  from  the 
cleanest  meat  and  clearest  water,  rise  a  scum  to  the  top  of  it,  pro- 
ceeding partly  from  the  water  ;  this  must  be  carefully  taken  off  as 
soon  as  it  rises. 

On  this  depends  the  good  appearance  of  all  boiled  things.  When 
you  have  skimmed  well,  put  in  some  cold  water,  which  will  throw 
up  the  rest  of  the  scum. 

The  oflener  it  is  skimmed,  and  the  cleaner  the  top  of  the  water 
is  kept,  the  sweeter  and  the  cleaner  will  be  the  meat. 

If  let  alone,  it  soon  boils  down  and  sticks  to  the  meat,  which, 
instead  of  looking  delicately  white  and  nice,  will  have  that  coarse 
and  filthy  appearance  we  have  too  often  to  complain  of,  and  the 
butcher  and  poulterer  be  blamed  for  the  carelessness  of  the  cook 
in  not  skinuning  her  pot. 


BOILING.  XV 

Many  put  in  milk,  to  make  what  they  boil  look  white  ;  but  this 
does  more  harm  than  good  :  others  wrap  it  up  in  a  cloth  ;  but 
these  are  needless  precautions  :  if  the  scum  be  attentively  removed, 
meat  will  have  a  much  more  delicate  color  and  finer  flavor  than  it 
has  when  muffled  up.  This  may  give  rather  more  trouble,  but 
those  who  wish  to  excel  in  their  art  must  only  consider  how  the 
processes  of  it  can  be  most  perfectly  performed  :  a  cook,  who  has 
a  proper  pride  and  pleasure  in  her  business,  will  make  this  her 
maxim  on  all  occasions. 

It  is  desirable  that  meat  for  boiling  be  of  an  equal  thickness,  or, 
before  thicker  parts  are  done  enough,  the  thinner  will  be  done  too 
much. 

Put  your  meat  into  cold  water,  in  the  proportion  of  about  a  quart 
of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat  :  it  should  be  covered  with  water  during 
the  whole  of  the  process  of  boiling,  but  not  drowned  in  it  ;  the  less 
water,  provided  the  meat  be  covered  with  it,  the  more  savory  will 
be  the  meat,  and  the  better  will  be  the  broth. 

The  water  should  be  heated  gradually,  according  to  the  thick- 
ness, &c.  of  the  article  boiled.  For  instance,  a  leg  of  mutton  of 
ten  pounds  weight  should  be  placed  over  a  moderate  fire,  which 
will  gradually  make  the  water  hot,  without  causing  it  to  boil  for 
about  forty  minutes  ;  if  the  water  boils  much  sooner,  the  meat  will 
be  hardened,  and  shrink  up  as  if  it  was  scorched  :  by  keeping  the 
water  a  certain  time  heating  without  boiling,  the  fibres  of  the  meat 
are  dilated,  and  it  yields  a  quantity  of  scum,  which  must  be  taken 
off  as  soon  as  it  rises. 

The  editor  placed  a  thermometer  in  water  in  that  state  which 
cooks  call  gentle  simmering  ;  the  heat  was  212^,  i.  e.  the  same 
degree  as  the  strongest  boiling. 

Two  mutton  chops  were  covered  with  cold  water;  one  boiled  a 
gallop,  while  the  other  simmered  very  gently  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  :  the  chop  which  was  slowly  simmered  was  decidedly  su- 
perior to  that  which  was  boiled  ;  it  was  much  tenderer,  more  juicy, 
and  much  higher  flavored.  The  liquor  which  boiled  fast  was  in 
like  proportion  more  savory,  and  when  cold  had  much  more  fat 
on  its  surface.  This  explains  why  quick  boiling  renders  meat 
hard,  &c.,  because  its  juices  are  extracted  in  a  greater  degree. 

Reckon  the  time  from  its  first  coming  to  a  boil. 

The  old  rule  of  15  minutes  to  a  pound  of  meat,  we  think  rather 
too  little  :  the  slower  it  boils,  the  tenderer,  the  plumper,  and  whiter 
it  will  be. 

For  those  who  choose  their  food  thoroughly  cooked  (which  all 
will  who  have  any  regard  for  their  stomachs),  twenty  minutes  to  a 
pound  for  fresh,  and  rather  more  for  salted  meat,  will  not  be  found 
too  much  for  gentle  simmering  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  allowing 
more  or  less  time,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  joint,  and  the 
coldness  of  the  weather  :  to  know  the  state  of  which,  let  a  ther- 
mometer be  placed  in  the  pantry  ;  and  when  it  falls  below  40  ®,  tell 


Xn  BAKING. 

your  cook  to  give  rather  more  time  in  both  roasting  and  boiling, 
always  remembering,  the  slower  it  boils  the  better. 

Without  some  practice  it  is  difficult  to  teach  any  art  ;  and  cooks 
seem  to  suppose  they  must  be  right,  if  they  put  meat  into  a  pot, 
and  set  it  over  the  fire  for  a  certain  time,  making  no  allowance 
whether  it  simmers  without  a  bubble  or  boils  a  gallop. 

Fresh-killed  meat  will  take  much  longer  time  boiling  than  that 
which  has  been  kept  till  it  is  what  the  butchers  call  tipe ;  and  long- 
er in  cold  than  in  warm  weather  :  if  it  h^  frozen,  it  must  be  thawed 
before  boiling  as  before  roasting  ;  if  it  be  fresh-killed,  it  will  be 
tough  and  hard,  if  you  stew  it  ever  so  long,  and  ever  so  gently. 
In  cold  weather,  the  night  before  the  day  you  dress  it,  bring  it  into 
a  place  of  which  the  temperature  is  not  less  than  45  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit's  thermometer. 

The  size  of  the  boiling-pots  should  be  adupted  to  what  they  are 
to  contain  :  the  larger  the  saucepan  the  more  room  it  takes  upon 
the  fire,  and  a  larger  quantity  of  water  requires  a  proportionate 
increase  of  fire  to  boil  it. 

In  small  families  we  recommend  block-tin  saucepans,  &c.  as 
lightest  and  safest.  If  proper  care  is  taken  of  them,  and  they  are 
well  dried  after  they  are  cleaned,  they  are  by  far  the  cheapest  ; 
the  purchase  of  a  new  tin  saucepan  being  little  more  than  the  ex- 
pense of  tinning  a  copper  one. 

Let  the  covers  of  your  boiling-pots  fit  close,  not  only  to  prevent 
unnecessary  evaporation  of  the  water,  but  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  nutritive  matter,  which  must  then  remain  either  in  the  meat 
or  in  the  broth  ;  and  the  smoke  is  prevented  from  insinuating  itself 
under  the  edge  of  the  lid,  and  so  giving  the  meat  a  bad  taste. 

If  you  let  meat  or  poultry  remain  in  the  water  after  it  is  done 
enough,  it  will  become  sodden,  and  lose  its  flavor. 

Beef  and  mutton  a  little  wwder-done  (especially  very  large  joints, 
which  will  make  the  better  hash  or  broil,)  is  not  a  great  fault ;  by 
some  people  it  is  preferred  :  but  lamb,  pork,  and  veal  are  uneata- 
ble if  not  thoroughly  boiled  ;  but  do  not  over-Ao  them. 

A  trivet  or  fish-drainer  put  on  the  bottom  of  the  boiling-pot,  raig* 
ing  the  contents  about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  bottom,  will 
prevent  that  side  of  the  meat  which  comes  next  the  bottom  from 
being  done  too  much,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  meat  will  be  as 
delicately  done  as  the  other  part  ;  and  this  will  enable  you  to  take 
out  the  contents  of  the  pot,  without  sticking  a  fork,  &.c.  into  it. 
If  you  have  not  a  trivet,  use  four  skewers,  or  a  soup-plate  laid  the 
wrong  side  upwards. 

BAKING. 

Baking  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and  most  convenient  ways  of 
dressing  a  dinner  in  small  families;  and,  I  may  say,  that  the  oven 
is  often  the  only  kitchen  a  poor  man  has,  if  he  wishes  to  enjoy  a 
joint  of  meat. 


BAKING.  XVU 

1  do  not  mean  to  deny  the  superior  excellence  of  roasting  to 
baking;  but  some  joints,  when  baked,  so  nearly  approach  to  the 
same  when  roasted,  that  I  have  known  them  to  be  carried  to  the 
table,  and  eaten  as  such  with  great  satisfaction. 

Legs  and  loins  of  pork,  legs  of  mutton,  fillets  of  veal,  and  many 
other  joints,  will  bake  to  great  advantage,  if  the  meat  be  good; 
I  mean  well-fed,  rather  inclined  to  be  fat:  if  the  meat  be  poor,  no 
baker  can  give  satisfaction. 

When  baking  a  poor  joint  of  meat,  before  it  has  been  half 
baked  I  have  seen  it  start  from  the  bone,  and  shrivel  up  scarcely 
to  be  believed. 

Besides  those  joints  above  mentioned,  I  shall  enumerate  a  few 
baked  dishes  which  I  can  particularly  recommend. 

A  pig,  when  sent  to  the  baker  prepared  for  baking,  should  have 
its  ears  and  tail  covered  with  buttered  paper  properly  fastened  on, 
and  a  bit  of  butter  tied  up  in  a  piece  of  linen  to  baste  the  back 
with,  otherwise  it  will  be  apt  to  blister:  with  a  proper  share  of 
attention  from  the  baker,  I  consider  this  way  equal  to  a  roasted 
one. 

A  goose  prepared  the  same  as  for  roasting,  taking  care  to  have 
it  on  a  stand,  and  when  half  done  to  turn  the  other  side  upwards. 
A  duck  the  same. 

A  buttock  of  beef  the  following  way  is  particularly  fine.  After 
it  has  been  in  salt  about  a  week,  to  be  well  washed,  and  put  into 
a  brown  earthen  pan  with  a  pint  of  water;  cover  the  pan  tight 
with  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  cap  or  foolscap  paper:  never 
cover  anything  that  is  to  be  baked  with  brown  paper,  the  pitch 
and  tar  that  is  in  brown  paper  will  give  the  meat  a  smoky,  bad 
taste:  give  it  four  or  five  hours  in  a  moderately  heated  oven. 

A  ham  (if  not  too  old)  put  in  soak  for  an  hour,  taken  out  and 
wiped,  a  crust  made  sufficient  to  cover  it  all  over,  and  baked  in 
a  moderately  heated  oven,  cuts  fuller  of  gravy,  and  of  a  fin^r 
flavor,  than  a  boiled  one.  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  baking 
small  cod-fish,  haddock,  and  mackerel,  with  a  dust  of  flour,  and 
some  bits  of  butter  put  on  them;  eels,  when  large  and  stuff*ed* 
herrings  and  sprats,  in  a  brown  pan,  with  vinegar  and  a  little 
spice,  and  tied  over  with  paper.  A  hare,  prepared  the  same  as 
for  roasting,  with  a  few  pieces  of  butter,  and  a  little  drop  of  milk 
put  into  the  dish,  and  basted  several  times,  will  be  found  nearly 
equal  to  roasting;  or  cut  it  up,  season  it  properly,  put  it  into  a 
jar  or  pan,  and  cover  it  over  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  fOr 
about  three  hours.  In  the  same  manner,  I  have  been  in  the  hab- 
it of  baking  legs  and  shins  of  beef,  ox  cheeks,  &c.  prepared  with 
a  seasoning  of  onions,  turnips,  &c.:  they  will  take  about  four 
hours:  let  them  stand  till  cold,  to  skim  off  the  fat;  then  warm  it 
up  all  together,  or  part,  as  you  may  want  it. 

All  these  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  baking  for  the  first  families. 

The  time  each  of  the  above  articles  should  take  depends  much 
upon  the  state  of  the  oven,  and  I  do  consider  the  baker  a  suf- 

B* 


XVm  ROASTING. 


ficient  judge;  if  they  are  sent  to  him  in  time,  he  must  be  very 
neglectful  if  they  are  not  ready  at  the  time  they  are  ordered. 


ROASTING. 

Let  the  young  cook  never  forget  that  cleanliness  is  the  chief 
cardinal  virtue  of  the  kitchen;  the  first  preparation  for  roasting 
is  to  take  care  that  the  spit  be  properly  cleaned  with  sand  and 
water;  nothing  else.  When  it  has  been  well  scoured  with  this, 
dry  it  with  a  clean  cloth.  If  spits  are  wiped  clean  as  soon  as  the 
meat  is  drawn  from  them,  and  while  they  are  hot,  a  very  little 
cleaning  will  be  required.  The  less  the  spit  is  passed  through 
the  meat  the  better;  and,  before  you  spit  it,  joint  it  properly,  es- 
pecially necks  and  loins,  that  the  carver  may  separate  them  easi- 
ly and  neatly,  and  take  especial  care  it  be  evenly  balanced  on 
the  spit,  thai  its  motion  may  be  regular,  and  the  fire  operate 
equally  on  each  part  of  it;  therefore,  be  provided  with  balancing- 
skewers  and  cookholds,  and  see  it  is  properly  jointed. 

Make  up  the  fire  in  time;  let  it  be  proportioned  to  the  dinner 
to  be  dressed,  and  about  three  or  four  inches  longer  at  each  end 
than  the  thing  to  be  roasted,  or  the  ends  of  the  meat  cannot  be 
done  nice  and  brown. 

A  cook  must  be  as  particular  to  proportion  her  fire  to  the  busi- 
ness she  has  to  do,  as  a  chemist:  the  degree  of  heat  most  desira- 
ble for  dressing  the  different  sorts  of  food  ought  to  be  attended 
to  with  the  utmost  precision. 

The  fire  that  is  but  just  sufficient  to  receive  the  noble  sirloin 
will  parch  up  a  lighter  joint. 

Never  put  meat  down  to  a  burned-up  fire,  if  you  can  possibly 
avoid  it;  but  should  the  fire  become  fierce,  place  the  spit  at  a 
considerable  distance,  and  allow  a  little  more  time. 

Preserve  the  fat,  by  covering  it  with  paper,  for  this  purpose 
called  "  kitchen-paper,"  and  tie  it  on  with  fine  twine;  pins  and 
skewers  can  by  no  means  be  allowed;  they  are  so  many  taps  to 
let  out  the  gravy:  besides,  the  paper  often  starts  from  them  and 
catches  fire,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  meat. 

If  the  thing  to  be  roasted  be  thin  and  tender,  the  fire  should 
be  little  and  brisk:  when  you  have  a  large  joint  to  roast,  make  up 
a  sound,  strong  fire,  equally  good  in  every  part,  or  your  meat 
cannot  be  equally  roasted,  nor  have  that  uniform  color  which 
constitutes  the  beauty  of  good  roasting. 

Give  the  fire  a  good  stirring  before  you  lay  the  joint  down; 
examine  it  from  time  to  time  while  the  spit  is  going  round ;  keep 
it  clear  at  the  bottom,  and  take  care  there  are  no  smoky  coals  in 
the  front,  which  will  spoil  the  look  and  taste  of  the  meat,  and 
hinder  it  from  roasting  evenly. 

When  the  joint  to  be  roasted  is  thicker  at  one  end  than  the 
other,  plf^ce  th^  spit  slanting,  with  the  thickest  part  nearest  the  fire. 


ROASTING.  xiX 

Do  not  put  meat  too  near  the  fire  at  first;  the  larger  the  joint) 
the  farther  it  must  be  kept  from  the  fire:  if  once  it  gets  scorched, 
the  outside  will  become  hard,  and  acquire  a  disagreeable,  empyr- 
eumatic  taste ;  and  the  fire  being  prevented  from  penetrating  into 
it,  the  meat  will  appear  done  before  it  is  little  more  than  half 
done,  besides  losing  the  pale  brown  color,  which  it  is  the  beauty 
of  roasted  meat  to  have. 

Be  very  careful  to  place  the  dripping-pan  at  such  a  distance 
from  the  fire  as  just  to  catch  the  drippings:  if  it  is  too  near,  the 
ashes  will  fall  into  it,  and  spoil  the  drippings. 

If  it  is  too  far  from  the  fire  to  catch  them,  you  will  not  only  lose 
your  drippings,  but  the  meat  will  be  blackened  and  spoiled  by 
the  fogtid  smoke,  which  will  arise  when  the  fat  falls  on  the  live 
cinders. 

A  large  dripping-pan  is  convenient  for  several  purposes.  It 
should  not  be  less  than  twenty-eight  inches  long  and  twenty  inch- 
es wide,  and  have  a  covered  well  on  the  side  from  the  fire,  to 
collect  the  drippings;  this  will  preserve  them  in  the  most  delicate 
state :  in  a  pan  of  the  above  size  you  may  set  fried  fish,  and  vari- 
ous dishes,  to  keep  hot. 

The  time  meat  will  take  roasting  will  vary  according  to  the 
time  it  has  been  kept,  and  the  temperature  of  the  weather;  the 
same  weight  will  be  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour  longer  in 
cold  weather,  than  it  will  be  in  warm;  and  if  fresh  killed,  than  if 
it  has  been  kept  till  it  is  tender. 

Everybody  knows  the  advantage  of  slow  boiling.  Slow  roasting 
is  equally  important. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  any  specific  rule  for  time;  but  if  your  fire 
is  made  as  before  directed,  your  meat-screen  sufficiently  large  to 
guard  what  you  are  dressing  from  currents  of  air,  and  the  meat 
is  not  frosted,  you  cannot  do  better  than  follow  the  old  general 
rule  of  allowing  rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  the 
pound;  a  little  more  or  less,  according  to  the  temperature  of  the 
weather,  in  proportion  as  the  piece  is  thick  or  thin,  the  strength 
of  the  fire,  the  nearness  of  the  meat  to  it,  and  the  frequency  with 
which  you  baste  it;  the  more  it  is  basted  the  less  time  it  will  take, 
as  it  keeps  the  meat  sofi;  and  mellow  on  the  outside,  and  the  fire 
acts  with  more  force  upon  it. 

Reckon  the  time,  not  to  the  hour  when  dinner  is  ordered,  but 
to  the  moment  the  roasts  will  be  wanted.  Supposing  there  are  a 
dozen  people  to  sip  soup  and  eat  fish  first,  you  may  allow  them 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes  for  the  former,  and  about  as  long  for  the 
latter,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  temptations  the  "bon  gout" 
of  these  preceding  courses  has  to  attract  their  attention. 

When  the  joiat  is  half  done,  remove  the  spit  and  dripping-pan 
back,  and  stir  up  your  fire  thoroughly,  that  it  may  burn  clear  and 
bright  for  the  browning;  when  the  steam  from  the  meat  draws  to- 
wards the  fire,  it  is  a  sign  of  its  being  done  enough;  but  you  will 
be  the  best  judge  of  that,  from  the  time   it  has  been  down,  the 


XX  PRYING. 

strength  of  the  fire  you  have  used,  and  the  distance  your  spit  has 
been  from  it. 

Half  an  hour  before  your  meat  is  done,  make  some  gravy,  and 
just  before  you  take  it  up,  put  it  nearer  the  fire  to  brown  it.  If 
you  wish  to  froth  it,  baste  it,  and  dredge  it  with  flour  carefully: 
you  cannot  do  this  delicately  nice  without  a  very  good  light. 
The  common  fault  seems  to  be  using  too  much  flour.  The  meat 
should  have  a  fine  light  varnish  of  froth,  not  the  appearance  of 
being  covered  with  a  paste.  Those  who  are  particular  about  the 
froth  use  butter  instead  of  drippings. 

A  good  cook  is  as  anxiously  attentive  to  the  appearance  and 
color  of  her  roasts,  as  a  young  beauty  is  to  her  complexion  at  a 
birthday  ball.  If  your  meat  does  not  brown  so  much,  or  so  even- 
ly as  you  wish,  take  two  ounces  of  glaze,  i.  e.  portable  soup,  put 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  let  it  warm  and  dissolve  gradu- 
ally by  the  side  of  the  fire.  This  will  be  done  in  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour;  put  it  on  the  meat  equally  all  over  with  a  paste-brush 
the  last  thing  before  it  goes  to  table. 

Though  roasting  is  one  of  the  most  common,  and  is  generally 
considered  one  of  the  most  easy  and  simple  processes  of  cook- 
ery, it  requires  more  unremitting  attention  to  perform  it  perfect- 
ly well  than  it  does  to  make  most  made  dishes. 

That  made  dishes  are  the  most  difficult  preparations,  deserves 
to  be  reckoned  among  the  culinary  vulgar  errors;  in  plain  roast- 
ing and  boiling  it  is  not  easy  to  repair  a  mistake  once  made;  and 
all  the  discretion  and  attention  of  a  steady,  careful  cook,  must 
be  unremittingly  upon  the  alert. 


FRYING. 

Frying  is  often  a  convenient  mode  of  cookery;  it  may  be  per- 
formed by  a  fire  which  will  not  do  for  roasting  or  boiling;  and  by 
the  introduction  of  the  pan  between  the  meat  and  the  fire,  things 
get  more  equally  dressed. 

The  Dutch  oven  or  bonnet  is  a  very  convenient  utensil  for  small 
things,  and  a  very  useful  substitute  for  the  jack,  the  gridiron,  or 
frying-pan. 

A  frying-pan  should  be  about  four  inches  deep,  with  a  perfectly 
flat  and  thick  bottom,  twelve  inches  long  and  nine  broad,  with 
perpendicular  sides,  and  must  be  half  filled  with  fat:  good  frying 
is,  in  fact,  boiling  in  fat.  To  make  sure  that  the  pan  is  quite 
clean,  rub  a  little  fat  over  it,  and  then  make  it  warm,  and  wipe  it 
out  with  a  clean  cloth. 

Be  very  particular  in  frying,  never  to  use  any  oil,  butter,  lard, 
or  drippings,  but  what  is  quite  clean,  fresh,  and  free  from  salt. 
Any  thing  dirty  spoils  the  look;  any  thing  bad-tasted  or  stale, 
spoils  the  flavor;   and  salt  prevents  its  browning. 

Fine  olive  oil  is  the  most  delicate  for  frying;  but  the  best  oil  is 
expensive,  and  bad  oil  spoils  every  thing  that  is  dressed  with  it. 


PRYING.  xn 

For  general  purposes,  and  especially  for  fish,  clean  fresh  lard 
is  not  near  so  expensive  as  oil  or  clarified  butter,  and  does  almost 
as  well.  Butter  often  burns  before  you  are  aware  of  it;  and  what 
you  fry  will  get  a  dark  and  dirty  appearance. 

Dripping,  if  nicely  clean  and  fresh,  is  almost  as  good  as  any 
thing;  if  not  clean,  it  may  be  easily  clarified.  Whatever  fat  you 
use,  after  you  have  done  frying,  let  it  remain  in  the  pan  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  then  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  basin;  it 
will  do  three  or  four  times  as  well  as  it  did  at  first,  i.  e.  if  it  has  not 
burned:  but,  the  fat  you  have  fried  fish  in  must  not  be  used  for 
any  other  purpose. 

To  know  when  the  fat  is  of  a  proper  heat,  according  to  what 
you  are  to  fry,  is  the  great  secret  in  frying. 

To  fry  fish,  parsley,  potatoes,  or  any  thing  that  is  watery,  your 
fire  must  be  very  clear,  and  the  fat  quite  hot;  which  you  may  be 
pretty  sure  of,  when  it  has  done  hissing,  and  is  still.  We  cannot 
insist  too  strongly  on  this  point:  if  the  fat  is  not  very  hot,  you 
cannot  fry  fish  either  to  a  good  color,  or  firm  and  crisp. 

To  be  quite  certain,  throw  a  little  bit  of  bread  into  the  pan;  if  it 
fries  crisp,  the  fat  is  ready;  if  it  burns  the  bread,  it  is  too  hot. 

The  fire  under  the  pan  must  be  clear  and  sharp,  otherwise  the 
fat  is  so  long  before  it  becomes  ready,  and  demands  such  attend- 
ance to  prevent  the  accident  of  its  catching  fire,  that  the  patience 
of  cooks  is  exhausted,  and  they  frequently,  from  ignorance  or  im- 
patience, throw  in  what  they  are  going  to  fry  before  the  fat  is  half 
hot  enough.  Whatever  is  so  fried  will  be  pale  and  sodden,  and 
offend  the  palate  and  stomach  not  less  than  the  eye. 

Have  a  good  light  to  fry  by,  that  you  may  see  when  you  have 
got  the  right  color:  a  lamp  fixed  on  a  stem,  with  a  loaded  foot, 
which  has  an  arm  that  lengthens  out,  and  slides  up  and  down  like 
a  reading  candlestick,  is  a  most  useful  appendage  to  kitchen  fire- 
places, which  are  very  seldom  light  enough  for  the  nicer  opera- 
tions of  cookery. 

After  all,  if  you  do  not  thoroughly  drain  the  fat  from  what  you 
have  fried,  especially  from  those  things  that  are  full  dressed  in 
bread  crumbs,  or  biscuit  powder,  Slc,  your  cooking  will  do  you 
no  credit. 

The  dryness  of  fish  depends  much  upon  its  having  been  fried  in 
fat  of  a  due  degree  of  heat;  it  is  then  crisp  and  dry  in  a  few  min^ 
utes  after  it  is  taken  out  of  the  pan:  when  it  is  not,  lay  it  on  a  soft 
cloth  before  the  fire,  turning  it  occasionally,  till  it  is.  This  will 
sometimes  take  fifteen  minutes:  therefore,  always  fry  fish  as  long 
as  this  before  you  want  them,  for  fear  you  may  find  this  necessary. 

To  fry  fish,  see  receipt  to  fry  soles,  which  is  the  only  circum- 
stantial account  of  the  process  that  has  yet  been  printed.  If  the 
cook  will  study  it  with  a  little  attention,  she  must  soon  become  an 
accomplished  frier. 

Frying,  though  one  of  the  most  common  of  culinary  operations, 
is  one  that  is  least  commonly  performed  perfectly  well. 


ZXU  BROILING. 


BROILING. 


Cleanliness  is  extremely  essential  in  this  mode  of  cookery. 

Keep  your  gridiron  quite  clean  between  the  bars,  and  bright  on 
the  top:  when  it  is  hot,  wipe  it  well  with  a  linen  cloth:  just  before 
you  use  it,  rub  the  bars  with  clean  mutton-suet,  to  prevent  the 
meat  from  being  marked  by  the  gridiron. 

Take  care  to  prepare  your  fire  in  time,  so  that  it  may  burn 
quite  clear;  a  brisk  and  clear  fire  is  indispensable,  or  you  cannot 
give  your  meat  that  browning  which  constitutes  the  perfection  of 
this  mode  of  cookery,  and  gives  a  relish  to  food  it  cannot  receive 
any  other  way. 

The  chops  or  slices  should  be  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness;  if  thicker,  they  will  be  done  too  much  on  the 
outside  before  the  inside  is  done  enough. 

Be  diligently  attentive  to  watch  the  moment  that  any  thing  ig 
done:  never  hasten  any  thing  that  is  broiling,  lest  you  make 
smoke  and  spoil  it. 

Let  the  bars  of  the  gridiron  be  all  hot  through,  but  yet  not 
burning  hot  upon  the  surface:  this  is  the  perfect  and  fine  condition 
of  the  gridiron. 

As  the  bars  keep  away  as  much  heat  ^s  their  breadth  covers,  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  they  should  be  thoroughly  hot  before  the 
thing  to  be  cooked  be  laid  on  them. 

The  bars  of  gridirons  should  be  made  concave,  and  terminate  in 
a  trough  to  catch  the  gravy  and  keep  the  fat  from  dropping  into 
the  fire  and  making  a  smoke,  which  will  spoil  the  broil. 

Upright  gridirons  are  the  best,  as  they  can  be  used  at  any  fire 
without  fear  of  smoke;  and  the  gravy  is  preserved  in  the  trough 
under  them. 

N.  B.  Broils  must  be  brought  to  table  as  hot  as  possible;  set  a 
dish  to  heat  when  you  put  your  chops  on  the  gridiron,  from  whence 
to  the  mouth  their  progress  must  be  as  quick  as  possible. 

When  the  fire  is  not  clear,  the  business  of  the  gridiron  may  be 
done  by  the  Dutch  oven  or  bonnet. 

Take  care  to  have  a  very  clear,  brisk  fire ;  throw  a  little  salt  on 
it;  make  the  gridiron  hot,  and  set  it  slanting,  to  prevent  the  fat 
from  dropping  into  the  fire,  and  making  a  smoke.  It  requires 
more  practice  and  care  than  is  generally  supposed  to  do  steaks  to 
a  nicety;  and  for  want  of  these  little  attentions,  this  very  common 
dish,  which  every  body  is  supposed  capable  of  dressing,  seldom 
comes  to  table  in  perfection. 

Ask  those  you  cook  for,  if  they  like  it  under,  or  thoroughly 
done;  and  what  accompaniments  they  like  best;  it  is  usual  to  put 
a  table-spoonful  of  ketchup,  or  a  little  minced  eschalot,  into  a  dish 
before  the  fire;  while  you  are  broiling,  turn  the  steak,  &c.  with  a 
pair  of  steak-tongs,  it  will  be  done  in  about  tenor  fifteen  minutes; 
rub  a  bit  of  butter  over  it,  and  send  it  up  garnished  with  pickles 
and  finely-scraped  horse-radish. 


BROTHS   AND    SOUPS.  XlHi 


BROTHS  AND  SOUPS. 

The  cook  must  pay  continual  attention  to  the  condition  of  her 
stew-pans,  soup-kettles,  &c.  which  should  be  examined  every  time 
they  are  used.  The  prudent  housewife  will  carefully  examine  the 
condition  of  them  herself  at  least  once  a  month.  Their  covers 
also  must  be  kept  perfectly  clean  and  well  tinned,  and  the  stew- 
pans  not  only  on  the  inside,  but  about  a  couple  of  inches  on  the 
outside:  many  mischiefs  arise  from  their  getting  out  of  repair; 
and  if  not  kept  nicely  tinned,  all  your  good  work  will  be  in  vain; 
the  broths  and  soups  will  look  green  and  dirty,  taste  bitter  and 
poisonous,  and  will  be  spoiled  both  for  the  eye  and  palate,  and 
your  credit  will  be  lost. 

The  health,  and  even  life  of  the  family,  depends  upon  this,  and 
the  cook  may  be  sure  her  employers  had  rather  pay  the  tinman's 
bill  than  the  doctor's;  therefore,  attention  to  this  cannot  fail  to 
engage  the  regard  of  the  mistress,  between  whom  and  the  cook  it 
will  be  my  utmost  endeavor  to  promote  perfect  harmony. 

If  she  has  the  misfortune  to  scorch  or  blister  the  tinning  of  her 
pan,  which  will  happen  sometimes  to  the  most  careful  cook,  I  ad- 
vise her,  by  all  means,  immediately  to  acquaint  her  employers, 
who  will  thank  her  for  candidly  mentioning  an  accident;  and  cen- 
sure her  deservedly  if  she  conceal  it. 

Take  care  to  be  properly  provided  with  sieves  and  tammy  cloths, 
spoons  and  ladles.  Make  it  a  rule  without  an  exception,  never  to 
use  them  till  they  are  well  cleaned  and  thoroughly  dried,  nor  any 
stew-pans,  &€.  without  first  washing  them  out  with  boiling  water, 
and  rubbing  them  well  with  a  dry  cloth  and  a  little  bran,  to  clean 
them  from  grease,  sand,  &.C.,  or  any  bad  smell  they  may  have  got 
since  they  were  last  used:  never  neglect  this. 

Though  we  do  not  suppose  our  cook  to  be  such  a  naughty  slut 
as  to  wilfully  neglect  her  broth-pots;  &c.,  yet  we  may  recommend 
her  to  wash  them  immediately,  and  take  care  they  are  thoroughly 
dried  at  the  fire,  before  they  are  put  by,  and  to  keep  them  in  a  dry 
place,  for  damp  will  rust  and  destroy  them  very  soon:  attend  to 
this  the  first  moment  you  can  spare  after  the  dinner  is  sent  up. 

Never  put  by  any  soup,  gravy,  &c.  in  metal  utensils;  in  which 
never  keep  any  thing  longer  than  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the 
purposes  of  cookery;  the  acid,  vegetables,  fat,  &c.  employed  in 
making  soups,  &c.  are  capable  of  dissolving  such  utensils:  there- 
fore stone  or  earthern  vessels  should  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

Stew-pans,  soup-pots,  and  preserving  pans,  with  thick  and  round 
bottoms  (such  as  saucepans  are  made  with),  will  wear  twice  as 
long,  and  are  cleaned  with  half  the  trouble,  as  those  whose  sides 
are  soldered  to  the  bottom,  for  sand  and  grease  get  into  the 
joined  part,  and  cookeys  say  that  it  is  next  to  an  impossibility  to 
dislodge  it,  even  if  their  nails  are  as  long  as  Nebuchadnezzar's. 

Take  care  that  the  lids  fit  as  close  as  possible,  that  the  broth. 


BROTHS    AND    SOUPS. 

soup,  and  sauces,  &c.  may  not  waste  by  evaporation.  They  are 
good  for  nothing,  unless  they  fit  tight  enough  to  keep  the  steam  in 
and  the  smoke  out. 

Stew-pans  and  saucepans  should  be  always  bright  on  the  upper 
rim,  where  the  fire  does  not  burn  them;  but  to  scour  them  all  over 
is  not  only  giving  the  cook  needless  trouble,  but  wearing  out  the 
vessels. 

Lean,  juicy  beef,  mutton,  or  veal,  form  the  basis  of  broth;  pro- 
cure those  pieces  which  afford  the  richest  succulence,  and  as  fresh 
killed  as  possible. 

Stale  meat  will  make  broth  grouty  and  bad  tasted,  and  fat  meat 
is  wasted.  This  only  applies  to  those  broths  which  are  required 
to  be  perfectly  clear:  fat  and  clarified  drippings  may  be  so  com- 
bined with  vegetable  mucilage,  as  to  afford,  at  the  small  cost  of 
one  penny  per  quart,  a  nourishing  and  palatable  soup,  fully  ade- 
quate to  satisfy  appetite  and  support  strength:  this  will  open  a 
new  source  to  those  benevolent  housekeepers,  who  are  disposed 
to  relieve  the  poor,  will  show  the  industrious  classes  how  much 
they  have  it  in  their  power  to  assist  themselves,  and  rescue  them 
from  being  objects  of  charity  dependent  on  the  precarious  bounty 
of  others,  by  teaching  them  how  they  may  obtain  a  cheap,  abun- 
dant, salubrious,  and  agreeable  aliment  for  themselves  and  fam- 
ilies. 

This  soup  has  the  advantage  of  being  very  easily  and  very  soon 
made,  with  no  more  fuel  than  is  necessary  to  warm  a  room.  Those 
who  have  not  tasted  it,  cannot  imagine  what  a  salubrious,  savory, 
and  satisfying  meal  is  produced  by  the  judicious  combination  of 
cheap  homely  ingredients.  -" 

The  general  fault  of  our  soups  seems  to  be  the  employment  of 
an  excess  of  spice,  and  too  small  a  portion  of  roots  and  herbs. 

There  is  no  French  dinner  without  soup,  which  is  regarded  as 
an  indispensable  overture;  and  believe  it  an  excellent  plan  to  begin 
the  banquet  with  a  basin  of  good  soup,  which,  by  moderating  the 
appetite  for  solid  animal  food,  is  certainly  a  salutiferous  custom. 

We  again  caution  the  cook  to  avoid  over-seasoning,  especially 
with  predominant  flavors,  which,  however  agreeable  they  may  be 
to  some,  are  extremely  disagreeable  to  others. 

Zest,  soy,  cavice,  coratch,  anchovy,  curry  powder,  savory  ra- 
gout powder,  soup  herb  powder,  browning,  ketchups,  pickle  li- 
quor, beer,  wine,  and  sweet  herbs,  and  savory  spice,  are  very 
convenient  auxiliaries  to  finish  soups,  &c. 

The  proportion  of  wine  should  not  exceed  a  large  wine-glass- 
ful to  a  quart  of  soup.  This  is  as  much  as  can  be  admitted, 
without  the  vinous  flavor  becoming  remarkably  predominant; 
though  not  only  much  larger  quantities  of  wine  (of  which  claret  is 
incomparably  the  best,  because  it  contains  less  spirit  and  more 
flavor,  and  English  palates  are  less  acquainted  with  it),  but  even 
veritable  eau  de  vie  is  ordered  in  many  books,  and  used  by  many 
(especially  tavern  cooks).     So  much  are  their  soups  overloaded 


BROTHS  AND    SOUPS.  aOBT 

with  relish^  that  if  you  will  eat  enough  of  them  they  will  certainly 
make  you  drunk,  if  they  don't  make  you  sick:  all  this  frequently 
arises  from  an  old  cook  measuring  the  excitability  of  the  eaters' 
palates  by  his  own,  which  may  be  so  blunted  by  incessant  tasting, 
that  to  awaken  it,  requires  win3  instead  of  water,  and  cayenne 
and  garlic  for  black  pepper  and  onion. 

The  art  of  Composing  a  rich  soup  is  so  to  proportion  the  seve- 
ral ingredients  one  to  another,  that  no  particular  taste  be  strong- 
er than  the  rest,  but  to  produce  such  a  fine  harmonious  relish  that 
the  whole  is  delightful.  This  requires  that  judicious  combination 
of  the  materials  which  constitutes  the  ''ch^f  d^osuvre'^  of  culinary 
science. 

In  the  first  place,  take  care  that  the  roots  and  herbs  be  per- 
fectly well  cleaned;  proportion  the  water  to  the  quantity  of  meat 
and  other  ingredients,  generally  a  pound  of  meat  to  a  quart  of 
water  for  soups,  and  double  that  quantity  for  gravies.  If  they 
stew  gently,  little  more  water  need  be  put  in  at  first  than  is  ex- 
pected at  the  end;  for  when  the  pot  is  covered  quite  close,  and 
the  fire  gentle,  very  little  is  wasted. 

Gentle  stewing  is  incomparably  the  best;  the  meat  is  more  ten- 
der, and  the  soup  better  flavored. 

It  is  of  the  first  importance  that  the  cover  of  a  soup-kettle 
should  fit  very  close,  or  the  broth  will  evaporate  before  you  are 
aware  of  it. 

Place  your  soup-pot  over  a  moderate  fire,  which  will  make  the 
water  hot  without  causing  it  to  boil  for  at  least  half  an  hour;  if 
the  water  boils  immediately,  it  will  not  penetrate  the  meat,  and 
cleanse  it  from  the  clotted  blood,  and  other  matters  which  ought  to 
go  off  in  scum;  the  meat  will  be  hardened  all  over  by  violent  heat; 
will  shrink  up  as  if  it  was  scorched,  and  give  hardly  any  gravy: 
on  the  contrary,  by  keeping  the  water  a  certain  time  heating  with- 
out boihng,  the  meat  swells,  becomes  tender,  its  fibr is  are  dilated, 
and  it  yields  a  quantity  of  scum,  which  must  be  taken  off  as  soon 
as  it  appears. 

It  is  not  till  after  a  good  half  hdur*s  hot  infusion  that  we  may 
mend  the  fire,  and  make  the  pot  boil  :  still  continue  to  remove  the 
scum;  and  when  no  more  appears,  put  in  the  vegetables,  &c.  and 
a  little  salt.  These  will  cause  more  scum  to  rise,  which  must  be 
taken  off  immediately;  then  cover  the  pot  very  closely,  and  place 
it  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  fire,  where  it  will  boil  very  gently, 
and  equally,  and  by  no  means  fast. 

By  quick  and  strong  boiling  the  volatile  and  finest  parts  of  th.^ 
ingredients  are  evaporated,  and  fly  ofl^  with  the  steam,  and  the 
coarser  parts  are  rendered  soluble  ;  so  you  lose  the  good,  and  get 
the  bad. 

Soups  will  generally  take  from  three  to  six  hours. 

Prepare  your  broths  and  soups  the  evening  before  you  want 
them.  This  will  give  you  more  time  to  attend  to  the  rest  of  your 
dmner  the  next  day;   and  when  the  soup  is  cold,  the  fat  may  be 

O 


XXVI  BROTHS  AND  SOUPS. 

much  more  easily  and  completely  removed  from  the  surface  of  it. 
When  you  decant  it,  take  care  not  to  disturb  the  settlings  at  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  which  are  so  line  that  they  will  escape  through 
a  sieve,  or  even  through  a  tamis,  which  is  the  best  strainer,  the 
soups  appear  smoother  and  finer,  and  it  is  much  easier  cleaned 
than  any  sieve.  If  you  strain  it  while  it  is  hot,  pass  it  through  a 
clean  tamis  or  napkin,  previously  soaked  in  cold  water  ;  the  cold- 
ness of^  this  will  coagulate  the  fat,  and  only  suffer  the  pure  broth 
to  pass  through. 

The  full  flavor  of  the  ingredients  can  only  be  extracted  by  very 
long  and  slow  simmering  ;  during  which  take  care  to  prevent 
evaporation,  by  covering  the  pot  as  close  as  possible:  the  best 
stew-pot  is  a  digester. 

Clear  soups  must  1)e  perfectly  transparent;  thickened  soups, 
about  the  consistence  of  rich  cream;  and  remember  that  thickened 
soups  require  nearly  double  the  quantity  of  seasoning. 

To  thicken  and  give  body  to  soups  and  sauces,  the  following 
materials  are  used:  they  must  be  gradually  mixed  with  the  soup 
till  thoroughly  incorporated  with  it;  and  it  should  have  at  least 
half  an  hour's  gentle  simmering  after:  if  it  is  at  all  lumpy,  pass  it 
through  a  tamis  or  a  fine  sieve.  Bread  raspings,  bread,  isinglass, 
potato  mucilage,  flour,  or  fat  skimmings  and  flour,  or  flour  and 
butter,  barley,  rice,  or  oatmeal  and  water  rubbed  well  together. 

To  their  very  rich  gravies,  &c.  the  French  add  the  white  meat 
of  partridges,  pigeons,  or  fowls,  pounded  to  a  pulp,  and  rubbed 
through  a  sieve.  A  piece  of  beef,  which  has  been  boiled  to  make 
broth,  pounded  in  the  like  manner  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour, 
and  gradually  incorporated  with  the  gravy  or  soup,  will  be  found 
a  satisfactory  substitute  for  these  more  expensive  articles. 

Meat  from  which  broth  has  been  made  and  all  its  juice  has  been 
extracted,  is  then  excellently  well  prepared  for  potting,  and  is 
quite  as  goo(?,  or  better,  than  that  which  has  been  baked  till  it  is 
dry;  indeed,  if  it  be  pounded,  and  seasoned  in  the  usual  manner, 
it  will  be  an  elegant  and  savory  luncheon,  or  supper,  and  costs 
nothing  but  the  trouble  of  preparing  it,  which  is  very  httle,  and  a 
relish  is  procured  for  sandwiches,  &c.  of  what  heretofore  has  been 
by  the  poorest  housekeeper  considered  the  perquisite  of  the  cat. 

Keep  some  spare  broth  lest  your  soup-liquor  waste  in  boiling, 
and  get  too  thick,  and  for  gravy  for  your  made  dishes,  various 
sauces,  &c, ;  for  many  of  which  it  is  a  much  better  basis  than 
melted  butter. 

The  soup  of  mock  turtle,  and  the  other  thickened  soups,  will 
supply  you  with  a  thick  gravy  sauce  (or  poultry,  fish,  ragouts,  &c.; 
and  by  a  little  management  of  this  sort,  you  may  generally  con- 
trive to  have  plenty  of  good  gravies  and  good  sauces  with  very 
little  trouble  or  expense. 

If  soup  is  too  thin  or  too  weak,  take  off  the  cover  of  your  soup- 
pot,  and  let  it  boil  till  some  of  the  watery  part  of  it  has  evaporated, 
or  else  add  some  of  the  thickening  materials  we  have  before  men- 


OBSERVATIONS,  XXVll, 

tioned  ;  and  have  at  hand  some  plain  browning.  This  simple  pre- 
paration is  much  better  than  any  of  the  compounds  bearing  that 
name ;  as  it  colors  sauce  or  soup  without  much  interfering  with  its 
flavor,  and  is  a  much  better  way  of  coloring  them  than  burning 
the  surface  of  the  meat. 

When  soups  and  gravies  are  kept  from  day  to  day,  in  hot  weather^ 
they  should  be  warmed  up  every  day,  and  put  into  fresh-scalded 
tureens  or  pans,  and  placed  in  a  cool  cellar;  in  temperate  weather 
every  other  day  may  be  enough. 

We  hope  we  have  now  put  the  common  cook  into  possession  of 
the  whole  arcana  of  soup-making,  without  much  trouble  to  herself, 
or  expense  to  her  employers.  It  would  greatly  diminish  the  ex- 
pense, and  improve  soups,  if  the  agents  employed  to  give  them  a 
zest  were  not  put  in  above  fifteen  minutes  before  the  finish,  and 
half  the  quantity  of  spice,  &c.  would  do.  A  strong  heat  soon  dis- 
sipates the  spirit  of  the  wine,  and  evaporates  the  aroma  and  flavor 
of  the  spices  and  herbs,  which  are  volatile  in  the  heat  of  boiling 
water. 

Warm  fluids,  in  the  form  of  soup,  unite  with  our  juices  much 
sooner  and  better  than  those  that  are  cold  and  raw  :  on  this  ac- 
count, RESTORATIVE  SOUP  is  the  bost  food  for  those  who  are  en- 
feebled by  disease  or  dissipation,  and  for  old  people,  whose  teeth 
and  digestive  organs  are  impaired. 

After  catching  cold,  in  nervous  headaches,  cholics,  indigestions, 
and  different  kinds  of  cramp  and  spasms  in  the  stomach,  warm 
broth  is  of  excellent  service. 

After  intemperate  feasting,  to  give  the  stomach  a  holyday  for  a 
day  or  two  by  a  diet  on  mutton  broth,  or  vegetable  soup,  &c.  is  the 
best  way  to  restore  its  tone.  "  The  stretching  any  power  to  its 
utmost  extent  weakens  it.  If  the  stomach  be  every  day  obliged  to 
do  as  much  as  it  can,  it  will  every  day  be  able  to  do  less.  A  wise 
traveller  will  never  force  his  horse  to  perform  as  much  as  he  can 
in  one  day  upon  a  long  journey." 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  CERTAIN  ARTICLES. 

We  shall  conclude  these  Introductory  Observations,  with  a  few 
remarks  on  the  qualities  of  certain  Articles  in  common  use. 

Butter. 

Well  made  pure  butter  is  lenient  and  nourishing,  eaten  cold, 
in  moderation,  with  bread.  But  upon  hot  new  bread,  or  hot 
toast,  or  used  as  sauce  to  animal  food,  it  is  not  wholesome.  In 
the  two  first  instances  it  is  very  apt  to  turn  acid  in  the  stomach; 
and  in  the  latter,  to  float  uppermost  in  the  stomach,  and  disturb 
the  digestion.  If  melted  thick  and  carefully,  and  eaten  with 
vegetable  food  and  bread  only,  it  is  not  so  liable  to  this  objection. 

Butter  is  good  for  dry,  constipated  habits,  but  not  for  such  as 
are  bilious,  asthmatic,  or  corpulent, 


XXVUl  OBSERVATIONS. 

Honey.  ■    *^  ■ 

Honey  is  nourishing  and  wholesome,   particularly  for  persons 

with  coughs,    weak   lungs,   and   short   breath.     It  is   balsamic, 

cleansing,  and  makes  the  body  soluble. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  get  it  fresh  and  pure;  it  is  apt 

to  turn  sour  by  long  keeping. 

Sugar. 
Sugar  used  in  moderation  is  nourishing  and  good,  but  much 
of  it  destroys  the  appetite,  and  injures  the  digestion.  Moist 
sugar  is  the  sweetest,  and  most  opening;  refined  sugar,  of  a  bind- 
ing nature.  The  preparations  made  of  sugar,  such  as  barley- 
sugar,  sugar-candy,  &c.  are  all  indigestible  and  bad,  as  the  good 
properties  of  the  sugar  are  destroyed  by  the  process  it  undergoes 
in  the  making  them.  They  are  particularly  injurious  to  children, 
from  cloying  their  delicate  stomachs.  Young  children  are  in 
general  better  without  sugar,  as  it  is  very  apt  to  turn  acid  and 
disagree  with  weak  stomachs;  and  the  kind  of  food  they  take 
has  natural  sweetness  enough  in  it  not  at  all  to  require  it. 

Salt. 

Salt,  moderately  used,  especially  with  flesh,  fish,  butter,  and 
cheese,  is  very  beneficial,  as  it  naturally  stimulates  weak  or  dis- 
ordered stomachs,  and  checks  fermentations.  But  if  it  be  im- 
moderately used  it  has  a  contrary  eflTect.  Very  little  salt  should 
be  used  with  vegetable  food  of  the  grain  or  seed  kind ;  for  the 
less  salt  that  is  put  to  it  the  milder,  cooler,  pleasanter,  and  easier 
of  digestion  it  will  be.  Salt  excites  the  appetite,  assists  the 
stomach  in  digesting  crude  phlegmatic  substances,  is  cleansing, 
and  prevents  putrefaction;  but  if  too  much  used,  it  heats  and  dries 
the  blood  and  natural  moisture.  It  is  best  for  phlegmatic,  cold, 
and  moist  stomachs;  and  most  injurious  to  hot,  lean  bodies. 

Salt-petre  is  particularly  bad  for  bilious  persons. 

Vinegar. 

Vinegar  is  cooling,  opening,  excites  the  appetite,  assists  diges- 
tion, is  good  for  hot  stomachs,  resists  putrefaction,  and  there- 
fore very  good  against  pestilential  diseases.  Too  much  use  of  it 
injures  the  nerves,  emaciates  some  constitutions,  is  hurtful  to  the 
breast,  and  makes  people  look  old  and  withered,  with  pale  lips. 

The  best  vinegar  is  that  which  is  made  of  the  laest  wines. 
Lemon-juice  and  verjuice  have  much  the  same  qualities  and  ef- 
fects as  vinegar. 

The  commonest  vinegar  is  least  adulterated. 

Mustard. 
Mustard  quickens  the  appetite,  warms  the  stomach,  assbts  in 
digesting  hard  meats,  and  dries  up  surperfluous  moisture.     It  sel- 
dom agrees  with  weak  stomachs. 


OBSERVATIONS.  30UJIC 

■  * 

Spices. 

Cayenne  pepper,  black  pepper,  and  ginger,  may  be  esteemed 
the  best  of  spices. 

Nutmegs,  cloves,  mace,  cinnamon,  and  allspice,  are  generally 
productive  of  indigestion  and  headache  to  weak  persons. 

Garlic,  Sfc. 

Garlic,  onions,  rocambole,  shallots,  leeks,  and  horse-radish, 
are  occasionally  good  for  strong  stomachs,  but  generally  disa- 
gree with  weak  stomachs. 

Tea. 

The  frequent  drinking  of  a  quantity  of  strong  tea,  as  is  the 
general  practice,  relaxes  and  weakens  the  tone  of  the  stomach, 
whence  proceeds  nausea  and  indigestion,  with  a  weakness  of  the 
nerves,  and  flabbiness  of  the  flesh,  and  very  often  a  pale  wan 
complexion.  Milk,  when  mixed  with  it  in  some  quantity,  lessens 
its  bad  qualities,  by  rendering  it  softer,  and  nutritious;  and,  with 
a  moderate  quantity  of  sugar,  it  may  then  be  a  proper  breakfast, 
as  a  diluent,  to  those  who  are  strong,  and  live  freely,  in  order  to 
cleanse  the  alimentary  passages,  and  wash  off  the  salts  from  the 
kidneys  and  bladder.  But  persons  of  weak  nerves  ought  to  ab- 
stain from  it  as  carefully  as  from  drams  and  cordial  drops;  as  it 
causes  the  same  kind  of  irritation  on  the  tender  delicate  fibres  of 
the  stomach,  which  ends  in  lowness,  trembling  and  vapors. 

It  should  never  be  drank  hot  by  any  body.  Green  tea  is  less 
wholesome  than  black  or  bohea. 

Coffee. 

CoflTee  afl^ords  very  little  nourishment,  and  is  apt  to  occasion 
heat,  dryness,  stimulation  and  tremors  of  the  nerves,  and  for 
these  reasons  is  thought  to  occasion  palsies,  watchfulness,  and 
leanness.  Hence  it  is  very  plain  that  it  must  be  pernicious  to  hot, 
dry,  and  bilious  constitutions.  If  moderately  used  it  may  be 
beneficial  to  phlegmatic  persons,  but,  if  drank  very  strong,  or  in 
great  quantities,  it  will  prove  injurious  even  to  them. 

The  following  remarks  on  Coffee,  were  published  in  London, 
by  a  physician.  1st.  The  raw  coffee  should  be  round  and  small 
grained,  free  from  dirt  and  of  a  light  color.  It  should  have  no 
appearance  of  mouldiness,  and  be  kept  quite  free  from  any  strong 
smell.  It  should  not  be  long  kept  in  sacks  with  other  provisions, 
as  there  is  no  substance  more  apt  to  obtain  strong  and  disagree- 
able odors  from  the  presence  of  its  neighbors.  Rum  injures  it; 
and  Miller  even  goes  so  far  as  to  state  that  a  few  bags  of  pepper 
on  board  a  ship  from  India  upon  one  occasion  spoiled  the  whole 
cargo. 

C2 


^^^  OBSERVATIONS. 

2nd.  When  the  grains  are  large,  flat,  and  of  a  green  color, 
they  should  be  kept  on  hand,  in  a  dry  situation,  a  long  tinie  before 
use.  Every  West  India  planter  knows  this  fact,  although  his 
interest  often  induces  him  to  send  the  article  to  market  before  it 
is  old  and  dry  enough. 

3d.  Roasting  coffee  is  by  far  the  most  difficult  operation  of  the 
housekeeper;  when  carried  far  enough,  an  aromatic  oil  is  formed 
by  the  heat  and  forces  itself  out  upon  the  surface  of  the  grains, 
giving  them  a  glossy  appearance,  and  an  odor  which  is  consider- 
ed their  perfection;  yet  too  little  roasting  prevents  the  aroma 
from  appearing,  and  too  much  completely  volatilizes  it,  leaving 
nothing  but  a  flat  bitter  taste.  The  heat  should  be  strong  and 
the  operation  shortened  as  much  as  possible  without  burning  the 
grains.  The  roaster  should  be  close  or  well  covered  all  the  time, 
and  in  order  to  improve  the  looks  and  flavor,  a  small  piece  of 
butter  may  be  added  to  the  coffee,  while  parching. 

4th.  When  thus  prepared,  coffee  may  be  preserved  for  use  in 
large  quantities,  without  losing  much  of  its  freshness,  provided 
the  vessels  containing  it  be  well  covered. 

5th.  An  infusion  of  coffee  is  better  than  a  decoction,  simply 
because  the  heat,  in  the  last  case,  being  stronger  and  more  last- 
ing, drives  off  more  of  the  aromatic  oil.  It  is  better,  therefore, 
to  grind  the  coffee  very  fine,  and  then  to  expose  it,  by  means  of 
a  bag  or  strainer,  to  the  action  of  boiling  water,  than  to  boil  it 
any  length  of  time.  Heat,  though  unavoidable,  injures  the  flavor, 
and  the  best  coffee  I  remember  to  have  tasted  was  made  by  ex- 
posing the  powder  to  a  pressure  of  cold  water;  a  tea-spoonful  of 
this  extract,  thrown  into  a  cup  of  hot  water,  was  sufficient.  It  is 
not  a  bad  method  to  allow  the  ground  coffee  to  lie  in  cold  water 
between  meals,  and  then  prepare  it  by  adding  hot  water.  Just  in 
proportion  to  the  continuance  of  heat,  in  this  and  in  the  last 
operation,  the  fragrance  disappears,  and  is  replaced  by  a  strong 
bitter  taste,  which,  according  to  the  experiments  of  Chenevix,  de- 
pends upon  the  presence  of  tannin  (resembling  that  in  tan  bark). 
Roasting,  besides  forming  this  bitter  substance,  deprives  the  cof- 
fee of  its  nutritious  qualities. 

Chocolate. 

Is  rich,  nutritious,  and  soothing,  saponaceous,  and  cleansing; 
from  v/hich  quality  it  often  helps  digestion,  and  excites  the  appe- 
tite. It  is  only  proper  for  some  of  the  leaner  and  stronger  sort  of 
phlegmatic  constitutions,  and  some  old  people  who  are  healthy, 
and  accustomed  to  bodily  exercise. 

Cocoa, 

Is  of  the  same  nature  as  chocolate,  but  not  so  rich;  and  there- 
fore lighter  upon  the  stomach. 


OBSERVATIONS.  XXXi 

Fruit. 

Fruits  are  of  different  degrees  of  digestibility.  Those  ofd.  hard 
texture,  as  some  kinds  of  apples,  melons,  apricots,  several  sorts 
of  fleshy  plums,  and  all  immature  fruits,  are  difficult  of  digestion. 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  currants,  gooseberries,  cherries, 
green-gages,  peaches,  nectarines,  melting  pears,  mulberries,  figs, 
grapes,  medlars,  when  all  quite  ripe,  are  more  easily  dissolved  in 
the  stomach. 

Fruit,  moderately  eaten,  is  wholesome,  particularly  as  correct- 
ing the  grossness  of  animal  food.  But  an  excess  of  it,  and  es- 
pecially of  unripe  fruit,  is  productive  of  many  diseases;  amongst 
children  in  particular,  it  often  occasions  such  as  the  nettle  rash 
and  St.  Anthony's  fire. 

Fruit  invariably  disagrees  with  bilious  persons;  but  is  a  sover- 
eign remedy  for  the  sea  scurvy,  and  for  diseases  arising  from  an 
excess  of  animal  food. 

JWits  and  Almonds. 
Most  kinds  of  nuts,  and  almonds,  from  their  milky  or  oily  na- 
ture, contain  a  good  deal  of  nourishment;  but  they  require  to  be 
well  chewed,  as  they  are  difficult  of  digestion.  Persons  with 
weak  stomachs  should  not  eat  them.  The  worst  time  at  which 
they  can  be  eaten  is  after  a  meal. 

Olives. 
Olives  that  have  been  gathered  immature  or  unripe,  and  put  into 
a  pickle  to  keep  them  sound,  are  apt,  especially  if  frequently  eaten, 
to  obstruct  the  stomach  and  passages.  The  best  way  of  eating 
them  is  with  good  bread,  when  the  stomach  is  properly  empty.  To 
eat  them  upon  a  full  stomach  is  very  bad. 


NOTE. 

Receipts  for  making  all  kinds  of  Bread,  Biscuits,  Blancmange, 
Buns,  Broth,  Cakes,  Creams,  Custards,  Jams,  Jellies,  Paste,  Pies, 
Puddings,  Soups,  Sauces,  &c.,  will  be  found  under  these  general 
heads ;  the  method  of  cooking  the  several  meats  are  arranged  under 
the  name  of  each  meat.  Still  there  are  interspersed  throughout  the 
book  single  receipts  under  the  letter  of  the  name,  of  which  many  of 
the  above  articles  are  composed.  We  will  instance  the  following, 
viz : — 

Cakes, — Almond,  Crumpets,   Echaudes,  Fanchonettes,   Flemish  wa- 
fers, Frangipane,  Gateau,  Gingerbread,  Hedgehog,  Jumbles, 
Kisses,  Lemon  Bonbons,  Macaroons,  Madelains,  Meat,  Muf- 
fins, Oat,  Orange,  Perlingo,  Sally  Lunns. 
Bread, — Almond,  Brentford,  Filbert,  French  Rolls,  Rusks. 
Creams, — Under  various  fruits  of  which  they  are  made. 
Veal, — Frinr's  chicken,  Gratin,  and  many  articles  under  Calf. 
Fowls, — See  also  Chickens,  Capons. 
Beef, — See  also  Ox. 


XXXIU 


The  following  Engraving  represents  the  method  of  dividing  an  Ox 
for  the  table,  in  England,  and  in  most  of  the  southern  cities  of  the 
United  States.  The  method  in  Boston  varies  considerably,  dividing 
into  smaller  pieces,  and  this  plan  we  pursue  in  the  following  tables  y 
but  the  manner  of  cooking  each  is  nearly  the  same. 


1.  Sirloin. 

10.  Fore  rib:  Five  ribs. 

2.  Rump. 

11.  Middle  rib:  Four  ribs. 

3.  Edge  Bone. 

12.  Chuck:  Three  ribs. 

4.  Buttock. 

13.  Shoulder  or  leg-of-mutton  pierc. 

5.  Mouse  Buttock. 

14.  Brisket. 

6.  Veiny  Piece. 

15.  Clod. 

7.  Thick  Flank. 

16.  Neck,  or  Sticking  Piece. 

8.  Thin  Flank. 

17.  Shin. 

9.  Leg. 

18.  Cheek. 

MARKETING  TABLES. 


BEEF. 
THE  HIND  QUARTER. 


Sirloin 
Rump 
Edge  Bone 

Round 

Veiny  Piece 
Thick  Flank 
Thin  Flank 
Leg  Ran 
Leg 


Price  per  lb. 

10  to  12  cents 

10  to  12  „ 

6  to  8  „ 

8  to  10  „ 

6  to  8  „ 

6  to  8  „ 

6  „ 

4  „ 

2  „ 


Method  of  cooking. 
Roasted. 

Roasted,  or  Steak,  or  Stew. 
Boiled. 

i  Alamode,  Boiled,  or  savory  salt- 

(       ed  Beef. 

Steaks  or  Roast ;  or  baked  or  salted. 
Steaks,  or  corned. 

do. 
Boil ;  Soup,  or  Stew* 
Soup  or  Stew. 


THE  FORE  QUARTER. 


First  Cut,  2  Ribs 
Second  Cut,  2  Ribs 
Third  Cut,  2  Ribs 
Fourth  Cut,  2  Ribs 
Chuck  Rib 

Shoulder  of  Mutton  Piece 
Shoulder  Clod 

Brisket 

Rattleran 
Sticking  Piece 
Neck 

Shin 

Head  (20  cents) 

Tail  (2  cents) 

Heels,  given  with  the  head 


10  cents 

10  „ 

8  „ 

6  „ 

5  „ 

5  „ 

3  „ 


Roast, 
do. 
do. 
do. 
Boil  or  Stew,  or  for  making  gravy. 
Steaks  or  Bouilli. 
Boil  or  Soup,  or  Beef  Sausages. 

(  Boil,  or  Bouilli ;  or  stewing,  or 

I      Harricot,  or  Salted. 
Boil. 

Boil,  or  Soup. 
Gravy. 

i  Soup ;   excellent  Scotch  barley 

(       Broth,  Stewed. 
Soup,  Stewed. 
Soup,  Stewed. 
Boiled,  Jelly,  Soup. 


MUTTON. 


Leg 
Loin 

Rack,  neck  end 


8  to  10  cents     Boil,  Roast. 


6  to    8 
5  to  6 


Rack,  best  end  6  to  8 

Shoulder  6 

Breast  6 

Head  4 

The  Chine  or  the  Saddle 
Loins.  The  Haunch 
Leg  and  part  of  the  Loin. 


two  \ 
is  a  V 
in,     j 


Chops — Roast,  Boil, 

j  Boil,  Roast,  Irish  Stew,  Harricot> 

(       Stewed,  Broth. 
Chops,  or  Broth. 
Roast. 

Broth, — Grilled. 
Broth. 

Roasted,  Venisonified, 


XXXIV 


MARKETING. 


Loin 

Leg  ,, 

Fillet  „ 

Knuckle,  or  whole  Leg  8 

Breast  8  to  10 

Breast  and  Neck  6 

Rack  6 

Shoulder  6 

Brisket  8 

Cutlets  10 


VEAL, 

8  to  10  cents        Roast, 


Cutlets,  Roast,  Boil. 

j  Roasted,    Veal    Olives,    Scotch 

\      Collops. 

Broth,  Ragout,  Stew,  Soup. 
Roast, 

Roast,  Stew,  Ragout,  Curry. 
Soup — Chops  to  fry. 
Roast,  or  Bake. 
Stewed,  Ragout. 
Fried,  Broiled. 


Head,  scalded,  (50  to  60  cts.  each)  Broiled  plain.  Hash. 

Beef  is  plentiest  and  cheapest  from  October  to  January ;  and  best 
Jrom  January  to  May. 

Veal  is  best  from  April  to  July. 

Mutton  is  best  from  October  to  June» 

Grass  Lamb  is  best  from  June  to  October. 

The  Quality  of  Butcher  Meat  varies  quite  as  nmch  cw  the  price  of  it 
— according  to  its  age — how  it  has  been  fed — and  especially  how  it  has 
been  treated  the  week  before  it  has  been  killed. 


PORK. 

Comes  into  Market. 

Plentiest 

Roasting  Pigs 

May 

June. 

Quarter  Pork 

July 

August. 

Spare  Ribs  and  Chine 

Aug. 

Nov.  &  Dec. 

Middlings 

salt,  all  the  year. 

Bacon  Hams 

November,  and  continue  all  the  year. 

POULTRY. 

Cornea  into  Market. 

Plentiest. 

Chickens 

July 

Nov. 

Fowls 

All  the  year 

do. 

Ducks 

July 

October. 

Geese 

August 

Nov. 

Turkeys 

September 

Nov.  &  Dec. 

Wild  Ducks 

do. 

Oct.  &  Apr.' 

Brants 

April 

May. 

Partridges 

September 

October. 

Quails 

do. 

January. 

Woodcocks 

July 

August. 

Obs. — Poultry  is  in  greatest  perfection,  when  in  greatest  plenty. 

The  price  of  it  varies  as  much  as  the  size  and  quality  of  it,  and  the 
supply  at  market,  and  the  demamd  for  it. 

It  is  generally  dearest  from.  March  to  July,  and  cheapest  about  Sep- 
tember, when  the  Game  season  commences,  and  the  weather  being  colder^ 
allows  of  its  being  brought  from  more  distant  parts. 


MARKETING.  XXXV 

The  above  information  will,  we  trusty  he  very  acceptable  to  Economi- 
cal Families^  who,  from  hearing  the  very  high  price  Poultry  sometimes 
costs,  are  deterred  from  ever  inquiring  about  it.  In  the  cheap  seasons 
we  have  noted,  it  is  sometimes  as  cheap  as  Butcher-meat. 

Those  who  pay  the  highest,  do  not  always  pay  the  dearest,  price.  In 
fact,  the  Best  Meat  is  the  cheapest ;  and  those  who  treat  a  tradesman 
liberally,  have  a  much  better  chance  of  being  well  served,  than  those  who 
are  forever  bargaining  for  the  Market  Penny.  In  dividing  the  Joints, 
there  is  always  an  opportunity  of  apportioning  the  Bones,  Fat,  Flaps, 
Sfc.  so  as  to  make  up  a  variation  of  much  more  than  a  penny  per  pound 
in  mast  pieces ;  and  a  Butcher  will  be  happy  to  give  the  turn  of  his  knife 
in  favor  of  that  Customer  who  cheerfully  pays  the  fair  price  of  the  arti- 
cle he  purchases  ;  have  those  who  are  unwilling  to  do  so  any  reason  to 
complain  ?     Have  they  not  invited  such  conduct. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR*  CURING  AND  COOKING  PICKLED  FISH.* 

The  use  of  Pickled  Fish,  such  as  Mackerel,  Salmon,  Shad,  &c. 
is  becoming  more  general  than  formerly,  and  would  be  still  more 
extensive  if  the  proper  mode  of  preparing  them  for  the  table  was 
better  understood.  These  fish  constitute  not  only  a  salutary  diet, 
but  in  many  cases  makes  a  very  beneficial  change  in  our  food. 

Whoever  will  give  the  following  directions  a  fair  trial  will  be- 
come sensible  of  their  value: — 

First.  The  fish  should  be  kept  covered  by  the  pickle  by  means 
of  a  flat  stone  or  slate,  laid  on  them.  The  oil,  or  animal  fat, 
which  floats  on  the  top  of  the  cask,  should  not  be  removed,  as  it 
prevents  the  fish  from  rusting;  but  in  taking  the  fish  from  the 
barrel  or  keg,  this  oil  ought  to  be  put  aside,  care  being  taken  not 
to  let  the  fish  touch  it.  Secondly — The  fish  should  be  washed 
clean,  then  put  to  soak  in  a  large  quantity  of  water  for  eight  or 
ten  hours,  with  the  flesh  side  down.  The  time  of  soaking  may  be 
varied  to  suit  the  palate.  It  must  again  be  washed  clean,  put  it 
to  soak  six  or  eight  hours  in  milk,  (if  you  have  it)  then  dry  it  by 
the  fire.  Thirdly — When  dry  lay  it  on  the  gridiron,  with  the  flesh 
side  downward,  over  pretty  lively  coals,  for  five  minutes,  or  till  it 
is  moderately  browned,  then  turn  it  with  a  plate,  or  some  flat  in- 
strument that  will  not  break  the  skin,  and  let  it  remain  over  the 
coals  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  it  is  cooked  sufficiently.  Slide 
it  off*  the  gridiron  into  the  dish,  and  strip  off"  the  backbone  with  a 
broad  knife:  pat  the  fish,  to  cause  the  thick  part  of  the  fish  to 
absorb  the  fat  from  the  belly  part;  use  no  butter — then  you  will 
enjoy  all  the  flavor  and  juices  of  the  fish. 

If  a  Mackerel  or  Shad  so  prepared  does  not  relish,  it  must  be 
more  the  fault  of  the  palate,  than  of  the  food.  How  many  arti- 
cles, capable  of  being  made  into  excellent  dishes,  are  lost  or 
spoiled  from  want  of  care  and  skill  in  dressing  them. 

♦As  the  whole  beauty  of  pickled  Fish  depends  upon  the  right  method  of  cooking  it,  we 
insert  by  itself  the  receipt  of  Capt.  Henry  Purkitt,  Massachusetts  Inspector  of  Fish,  who 
obligingly  handed  it  to  tlie  Editor. 


TABLE 

OP 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 


By  which  persons  not  having  scales  and  weights  at  hand  may 
readily  measure  the  articles  wanted  to  form  any  receipt,  without 
the  trouble  of  weighing.  Allowance  to  be  made  for  any  ex- 
traordinary dryness  or  moisture  of  the  article  weighed  or  meas- 
ured. 


WEIGHT  AND  MEASURE. 


Eggs          -         -         - 

ten  eggs  are 

one  pound. 

Brown  sugar 

one  pound,  two  ounces,  is 

one  quart. 

White  sugar,  powdered 

one  pound,  one  ounce,  is 

one  quart. 

Loaf-sugar,  broken 

one  pound  is              -        - 

one  quart. 

Butter — when  soft  - 

one  pound  is      - 

one  quart. 

Indian  meal 

one  pound,  two  ounces,  is 

one  quart. 

Wheat  flour 

one  pound  is          -           - 
LIQUIDS. 

one  quart. 

Four  large  table-spoonfuls  are           -         -         - 

half  a  gill. 

Eight  large  table-spoonfuls  are               -         .         - 

one  gill. 

Sixteen  large  table-spoonfuls  are      -         -         - 

half  a  pint. 

A  common-sized  wine-glass          -         -         -         - 

half  a  gill. 

A  common-sized  tumbler  holds        -         -         •^ 

half  a  pint 

THB 


COOK'S    OWN    BOOK. 


ALM 

ABERDEEN  CRULLA.   (See  Cakes.) 
ALAMODE  BEEF.     (See  Beef.) 
ALAMODE  VEAL.     (See  Veal.) 

ALMOND  CHEESECAKES.      (1) 

Talce  half  a  pound  of  Jordan  almonds,  lay 
them  in  cold  water  all  night ;  the  next  morn- 
ing blanch  them  in  cold  water ;  then  talte  them 
out  and  dry  them  in  a  clean  cloth,  beat  them 
very  fine  in  a  little  orange  flower  water ;  then 
take  six  eggs,  leave  out  four  whites,  with  a 
little  beaten  mace ;  beat  them  well  in  a  mar- 
ble mortar ;  take  ten  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
melt  it,  add  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
put  tliem  in  tlie  mortar  with  the  other  ingre- 
dients; mix  all  well  together  and  fill  your 
palty-pans,  having  lined  them  with  thin  puff 


ALMOND  CHEESECAKES.      (2) 

Blanch  and  pound  four  ounces  of  almonds, 
and  a  few  bitter  with  a  spoonful  of  water ; 
then  add  four  ounces  of  sugar  pounded,  a 
spoonful  of  cream,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs 
well  beaten ;  mix  all  as  quick  as  possible ; 
put  into  very  small  patty-pans,  and  bake  in 
a  pretty  warm  oven  twenty  minutes. 

ALMOND  CHEESECAKES.  (3) 
Blanch  six  ounces  of  sweet,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  bitter  almonds ;  let  them  lie  half  an  hour 
in  a  drying  stove,  or  before  the  fire ;  pound 
them  very  fine  in  a  mortar,  witli  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rose  water,  to  prevent  them  from 
oiling ;  set  into  a  stew-pan  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter;  set  it  in  a  warm  place,  and 
cream  it  very  smooth  with  the  h^nd,  and  add 
it  to  the  almonds,  with  six  ounces  of  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  some 
good  cream,  and  four  eggs ;  rub  all  well  to- 
gether with  the  pestle;  cover  a  patty-pan 
with  puff  paste;  fill  in  the  mixture;  orna- 
ment it  with  slices  of  candied  lemon-peel  and 
almonds  split,  and  bake  it  half  an  hour  in  a 
brisk  oven. 

ALMOND     CONSERVE,     BURNT. 

Blanch  and  cut  six  ounces  of  sweet  almonds 
into  small  strips,  lay  them  on  paper  and  put 
them  into  an  oven;  when  they  are  brown. 


ALM 

take  them  out,  and  throw  them  into  two 
pounds  of  sugar  boiled  to  petit  casse,  stir 
the  mixture  well  until  it  begins  to  blow,  and 
then  pour  it  into  paper  cases  or  moulds. 

ALMONDS,    ENGLISH   FASHION. 

Mix  almonds  and  filberts  sca'ded  in  equal 
quantities ;  chop  one  half  very  fine,  cut  the 
rest  each  into  two  or  tliree  slices;  put  the 
whole  in  double  theii*  weight  of  sugar, 
prepared  by  boiling  it  with  some  lemon- 
peel  rasped;  stir  the  almonds  veiy  well 
in  the  sugar,  taking  it  off  the  fii-e,  and 
add  one  or  two  whites  of  eggs ;  pour  it  in 
paper  large  enough  to  contain  the  whole,  and 
cut  it  in  slices  for  use  as  you  think  proper, 
when  baked  as  usual. 

ALMOND  FRAZE.  Blanch  a  pound 
of  Jordan  almonds,  and  steep  them  in  a  pint 
of  cream,  ten  yolks,  and  four  whites  of  eggs ; 
take  out  the  almonds  and  pound  them  fine  in 
a  marble  mortar;  then  mix  them  again  in 
the  cream  and  eggs,  put  in  sugar  and  grated 
bread,  and  stir  tliem  all  togetljer;  then  put 
some  fiesh  butter  into  the  pan,  let  it  be  hot 
and  pour  it  in,  stirring  it  in  the  pan  till  they 
are  of  a  sufficient  consistence ;  and  when 
enough,  turn  it  into  a  dish,  strew  sugar  over 
it,  and  serve  it  up. 

ALMOND  FRITTERS.  Blanch  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  pour 
over  them  three  table-spoonfuls  of  rose  water, 
and  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  a  pint  of  cream; 
let  them  stand  two  or  thi-ee  hours,  then  pound 
them  in  a  mortar  till  they  become  (juite  a 
paste ;  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  two 
or  three  pounded  Naples  biscuit;  sweeten 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  mix  all  well 
togetlier ;  melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter  in  a  fiying-pan,  and  when  hot,  pour  m 
the  mixture,  and  stir  it  constantly  till  thick, 
and  of  a  light  brown  co'.or.  Serve  it  with 
sifted  loaf  sugar  over  the  top. 

ALMOND  BROWN  GINGER- 
BREAD. Beat  a  quiurter  of  a  pound  of 
blanched  almonds  with  tliin  gum-water,  a 
few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  little  powdered 
cinnamon,  c  d  some  ginger  finely  grated  and 


ALM 


ANC 


seered  to  give  it  a  brown  color;  sweeten 
and  smooth  it  well,  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut 
it  into  squares;  dry  it  in  a  stove  or  before 
the  fire. 

ALMOND  ICEING,  for  Bride  Cake. 
The  whites  of  six  eggs,  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  double-refined  sugar,  a  pound  of  Jordan 
ahnonds  blanched  and  pounded  with  a  little 
rose  water ;  mix  altogether  and  whisk  it  well 
for  an  hour  or  two,  lay  it  over  the  cake  and 
put  it  in  the  oven. 

ALMOND  MACAROONS,  BITTER. 

Take  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds,  rub  them 
well  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  beat  them  to  a  paste 
witli  the  whites  of  three  or  four  eggs ;  then 
put  tliem  into  an  earthen  pan  with  three 
pounds  of  powder-sugar,  mix  them  together 
well,  and  if  the  paste  should  be  too  dry, 
raotsten  it  with  white  of  egg.  Drop  it  on 
sheets  of  paper  in  lumps  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  bake  them  in  a  close,  gentle  oven. 

ALMOND  MACAROONS,  SWEET, 

Are  done  in  the  same  way.  But  two  pounds 
of  sugar  are  sufficient  for  a  pound  of  almonds. 

ALMOND  MILK  SOUP.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  put  them  on  the  fire 
with  some  water  until  near  boiling,  then 
blanch  and  throw  them  into  fl'esh  water; 
drain  and  pound  them.  Boil  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter, a  litde  sugar,  salt,  cinnamon,  coriander, 
and  lemon-peel,  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
rub  the  almonds  through  a  sieve  to  this.  Lay 
some  slices  of  toasted  bread  in  a  dish,  and 
pom*  the  milk  of  almonds  on  it,  as  hot  as 
possible  without  boiling. 

ALMOND  PUFFS.  Blanch  two  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds,  and  beat  them  fine  with 
orange  flower  water,  whisk  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  to  a  high  frotii,  strew  in  a  little 
sifted  sugar,  mix  the  almonds  with  the  sugar 
and  eggs,  and  add  more  sugar  till  as  thick 
as  paste.  Lay  it  in  cakes,  and  bake  it  on 
pa|}er  in  a  cool  oven. 

ALMOND  RICE.  Blanch  sweet  al- 
monds, and  poimd  them  in  a  marble  mortar ; 
mix  them  in  a  little  boiling  water;  press 
them  as  long  as  there  is  milk  in  the  almonds, 
adding  fresh  water  every  time;  to  everj^ 
quart  of  ahiiond-juice,  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  rice  and  two  teaspoonsful  of  orange 
flower  water;  mix  them  all  together,  and 
simmer  it  over  a  slow  charcoal  fire;  stir  it 
repeatedly,  and  when  done,  sweeten  it  at 
pleasm-e;  serve  it  with  beaten  cinnamon 
strewed  over. 

ALMOND  ROLLS,  BFrTER.  Blanch 
And  pound  eight  ounces  of  almonds    five  of 


sweet  and  three  of  bitter)  to  a  very  fine 
paste ;  then  place  eight  ounces  of  flour  on 
your  slab ;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  and 
put  into  it  eight  ounces  of  powder-sugar,  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a  grain  of  salt ;  mix 
them  all  well  together  into  a  firm  smootn 
paste ;  roll  it  out  and  cut  it  into  four  equal 
pai-ts ;  roll  each  piece  to  the  same  length ; 
cut  tliem  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut, and  form  them  to  the  shape  of  a  wild 
turnip,  and  as  you  do  them  put  them  on  a 
baking-tin  lightly  buttered ;  dorez  them  and 
bake  them  of  a  proper  color  in  a  moderate 
oven.  When  they  are  taken  from  tlie  oven, 
let  them  stand  a  little  while  to  dry. 


ALMOND 

ding.) 


PUDDING.      (See    Pud- 


ALMOND  TUMBLES.  Blanch  and 
pound  three  ounces  of  almonds  very  fine, 
when  almost  beaten  enough,  take  the  white 
of  an  egg  beaten  to  frotli,  one  pound  of  dou- 
ble-refined sugar  well  beaten,  and  put  it  in 
by  degrees,  working  it  into  a  paste  with  your 
hands,  roll  it  out  and  bake  it  on  buttered 
plates  in  a  hot  oven. 

AMERICAN  BLANCMANGE.  (See 
Blancmange.) 

AMERICAN  GINGERBREAD.  Take 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  melted,  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  dried  and  sifted  floiu-,  the  sam« 
quantity  of  brown  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  pounded  ginger,  nine  eggs,  the  yolks  and 
whites  sepai'ately  beaten,  one  glass  of  rose 
water,  and  one  of  white  wine;  mix  all  these 
well  together,  and  l;eat  it  for  an  hour;  then 
with  a  spoon  spread  it  over  flat  tin  pans, 
about  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece ;  bake 
it  of  a  light  brown,  and  while  warai,  cut  it 
into  oblong  pieces,  and  place  them  on  end 
till  cool,  when  diey  will  be  very  crisp. 

AMERICAN  VINEGAR.  (See  Vin- 
egar.) 

AMERICAN  SNOW  BALLS.  Boil 
some  rice  in  milk  till  it  be  swelled  and  sofl ; 
pare  and  carefully  scoop  out  the  core  of  five 
or  six  good-sized  apples,  put  into  each  a  lit- 
tle grated  lemon -peel  and  cinnamon ;  place 
as  much  of  the  rice  upon  a  bit  of  linen  as 
will  entirely  cover  an  apple,  and  tie  each  close- 
ly. Boil  them  two  hours,  and  sene  them 
with  melted  butter,  sweetened  witli  sugar. 

ANCHOVIES,  Wash  half  a  dozen  an- 
chovies, and  take  the  meat  from  the  bones ; 
cut  them  into  four  fillets,  place  them  on  a 
dish  with  some  sweet  herbs,  cut  small ;  and 
the  yoBks  and  whites  of  hard  eggs,  also  cut 
small. 


ANC 


3 


APP 


ANCHOVY  BUTTER.  Wash  youi- 
anchovies  carefully,  take  out  the  bones,  and 
dry  them;  then  pound  them  in  a  moitai* 
until  they  are  reduced  to  a  paste ;  and  mix 
this  paste  with  double  the  quantity  of  fresh 
butter. 

ANCHOVIES,  BUITER  OF.  Wash 
from  the  pickle  some  fine  young  anchovies, 
bone,  and  take  off  the  heads,  then  pound  tliem 
in  a  mortar  with  fresh  butter  till  quite  smootli, 
and  rub  it  through  a  sieve. 

ANCHOVY  PASTE.  Pound  them  in  a 
mortar,  then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve ;  pot 
it,  cover  it  with  clarified  butter,  and  keep  it 
in  a  cool  place.  If  you  have  essence  of  ancho- 
vy, you  may  make  anchovy  paste  extempore, 
by  rubbing  the  essence  with  as  much  flour  as 
will  make  a  paste.  3Iem. — This  is  merely 
mentioned  as  the  means  of  making  it  imme- 
diately ;  it  will  not  keep. 

ANCHOVY  POWDER.  Pound  the  fish 
in  a  mortar,  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  and 
make  them  into  a  paste  witli  dried  flom-,  roll 
it  into  thin  cakes,  and  dry  tliem  in  a  Dutch 
oven  before  a  slow  fiie ;  pounded  to  a  fine 
powder,  and  put  into  a  well-stopped  bottle,  it 
will  keep  for  years;  it  is  a  very  savoury 
relish,  sprinkled  on  bread  and  butter  for  a 
sandwich,  &c.     See  Oyster  Powder. 

ANCHOVY  TOAST.  (1)  Cut  seme 
tliin  slices  of  bread  about  the  length  and 
breadth  of  a  finger;  fry  them  in  oil.  Place 
tliem  on  a  dish,  and  pour  on  them  a  sauce 
made  of  oil,  vinegar,  whole  pepper,  parsley, 
sjallion,  and  shallots,  cut  up  together.  Then 
cut  the  anchovies  into  thin  slices,  and  lay 
them  on  the  toast. 

ANCHOVY  TOAST.  (2)  Bone  and 
wash  the  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
with  a  little  fresh  butter ;  rub  them  through  a 
sieve  and  spread  them  on  a  toast.  You  may 
add,  while  pounding  tlie  anchovies,  a  little 
made  nnistard  and  curry  powder,  or  a  few 
grains  of  Cayenne,  or  a  little  mace  or  other 
spice.  It  may  be  made  still  more  savoury,  by 
frying  the  toast  in  clarified  butter. — N.  B. 
Keep  your  anchovies  well  covered ;  fiist  tie 
down  your  jar  with  bladder  moistened  widi 
vinegar,  and  then  wiped  dry;  tie  leadier 
over  that:  when  you  open  a  jar,  moisten  the 
bladder,  and  it  will  come  off  easily;  as  soon 
as  you  have  taken  out  the  fish,  replace  the 
coverings;  the  air  soon  nasts  and  spoils 
anchovies. 

ANCHOVY  TOAST.  (3)  Bone  and 
roll  up  two  or  thiee  anchoivies,  place  tliem 
upon  pieces  of  dry  toast,  and  garnish  with 
cm-led  parsley. 


ANGELICA  TO  CANDY.      Cut  the 

stalks  when  thick  and  tender,  put  them  on 
in  boiling  water,  and  when  very  tender,  di-ain 
it  off,  and  tlirow  them  into  cold  water ;  peel 
off  tlie  skin,  and  scald  them  in  a  tliin  sirup, 
made  with  the  same  proportion  of  sugar  that 
there  is  of  fruit ;  heat  it  twice  a  day  till  the 
sirup  is  almost  diied  in,  and  then  dry  them 
under  garden  glasses,  or  in  a  stove,  and  turn 
them  twice  a  day. 

APPLES.  Cooks,  in  choosing  apples  for 
culinary  purposes,  should  always  be  guided 
by  the  weight,  die  heaviest  being  always  the 
best ;  and  tliose  are  particularly  to  be  taken, 
which,  upon  being  pressed  by  the  thumb, 
yield  witli  a  slight  cracking  noise.  Large 
apples  possessing  these  qualities  should  be 
taken  in  preference  to  small  ones,  as  there 
is  less  waste  in  peeling  and  coring. 

APPLE   BLACK-CAP.      (1)     Divide 

twelve  large  apples  in  halves,  core  diem,  and 
place  them  on  a  thin  patty-pan  or  mazarine, 
quite  close  to  each  other,  with  the  flat  side 
downwards;  squeeze  a  lemon  into  two 
spoonfiils  of  orange  flower  water,  which  pour 
over  them ;  shred  fine  some  lemon-peel,  Uirow 
it  over  them,  and  grate  fine  sugar  all  over. 
Set  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and  bake  them 
half  an  hour.  When  served,  strew  fine  su- 
gar all  over  the  dish. 

APPLE    BLACK-CAP.    (2)      Pare 

the  apples,  lay  them  in  your  pan,  strew  a  few 
cloves  over  them,  a  little  lemon-peel  cut  very 
small,  two  or  three  blades  of  cinnamon,  and 
some  coarse  sugar ;  cover  the  pan  with  brown 
paper,  set  it  in  an  oven  with' the  bread,  and 
let  it  stand  tih  the  oven  is  cold. 

APPLES,  TO  BAKE  WHOLE.    Put 

some  sound  and  well  chosen  apples  into  a 
pan,  with  a  small  proportion  of  cloves,  a 
little  lemon-peel,  some  brown  sugar,  a  glass 
Oi-  more  of  red  wine,  according  to  the  quan- 
tity of  fruit;  put  them  into  a  quick  oven,  and 
bake  them  at  least  one  hour.  The  sugar  to 
be  limited  according  to  tlie  quality  of  the 
apples. 

APPLES,  CHARLOTTE  OF.  (Set 
Charlotte.) 

APPLE  CHEESECAKES.  Pare, core, 
and  boil  twelve  apples  with  sufficient  water 
to  mash  them ;  beat  them  veiy  smooth,  add 
six  yolks  of  eggs,  the  juice  of  two  lemons, 
and  some  grafed  lemon-peel,  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter  beaten  to  a  cream,  and  sweet- 
ened with  powder  sugar,  beat  it  in  with  the 
apples.     Bake  in  a  puff"  cixist  and  serve  open. 

APPLES  CLEAR.    Boil  half  a  pound 


APP 


APF 


of  loaf  sugar  in  a  pint  of  water ;  take  off  the 
scum,  and  put  in  some  large  apples,  pared, 
cored,  and  cut  into  quarters,  with  the  peel 
and  juice  of  a  lemon ;  let  tlteni  boil  till  clear, 
without  a  cover  upon  tlie  sauce-pan. 

APPLES  COMPOTE.  (1)  Cut  some 
apples  in  half,  core  them,  prick  tlie  skins  with 
a  knife  and  tlirow  them  into  cold  watei- ; 
'  then  put  them  into  a  pan  with  some  clarified 
sugar,  and  stew  them  gently  till  tender ;  place 
the  apples  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the  sirup 
tlirough  a  sieve  over  them. 

APPLES  COMPOTE.  (2)  Pare  and 
cut  half  a  dozen  fine  apples  in  half,  and  put 
them  into  a  pan  with  a  little  water  and  lemon- 
juice  ;  tlien  clarify  half  a  pound  of  sugai-,  and 
when  you  have  skimmed  it  put  in  your  apples, 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  turn  tlie  apples 
frequently.  As  soon  as  you  find  the  fork  will 
penetrate  them,  they  are  sufficiently  done,  and 
may  be  taken  out ;  strain  and  reduce  the 
syrujT;  strain  it  again,  and  tlien  pour  it  over 
your  apples,  which  may  be  served  eitlier  hot 
or  cold.  Garnish  with  the  peel  of  a  veiy  red 
apple,  cut  into  various  devices,  and  laid  on 
the  apples. 

APPLES,  WHOLE.  The  proceeding  is 
the  same  as  the  last,  es;cept  that  the  apples, 
when  pared,  are  not  divided,  and  tlie  cores 
are  taken  out  with  a  piercer. 

APPLE  DUMPLINGS.  Pare  and 
scoop  out  the  core  of  six  large  baking  apples, 
put  pait  of  a  clove,  and  a  little  grated  lem- 
on-peel, inside  of  each,  and  enclose  them  in 
pieces  of  puff  paste ;  boil  tliein  in  nets  for 
the  purpose,  or  bits  of  linen,  for  an  hour. 
Before  serving,  cut  off  a  small  bit  from  the 
top  of  each,  and  put  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  su- 
gar, and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter ;  replace  the  bit 
of  paste,  and  strew  over  them  pounded  loaf 
sugar. 

APPLE    DUMPLINGS,     BAKED. 

Make  them  in  tlie  same  way,  but  instead  of 
tieing  tliem  in  cloths  lay  tliem  in  a  buttered 
dish  and  bake  them. 

APPLES,  DRIED  OR  BAKED.  Al- 
ways choose  the  clearest  of  baking  apples, 
prick  them  rather  deep  with  a  pointed  knife 
in  several  places,  and  put  them  in  a  mode- 
rate oven  upon  a  baking  plate ;  when  half 
done  squeeze  them  pretty  flat  witli  the  hands, 
strew  them  on  botli  sides  with  powder  sugar, 
and  put  them  again  into  a  soaking  oven, 
with  some  more  sugar  over  them.  Keep 
them  in  a  dry  place. 

APPLES  FESTOONED.  Peel  some 
golden  pippins,  core  tliem  whole,  and  stew 


them  to  three  parts  with  sugar  and  a  little 
water;  make  the  sirup  pretty  rich  to  clog 
to  the  apples ;  wrap  tliein  round  with  a  tliin 
paste,  cut  with  a  paste-cutter,  and  make  knots 
or  flo«'eis  with  the  same  paste  to  put  on  the 
top  of  the  apples ;  rasp  some  sugar  over,  and 
bake  a  vei-y  short  time. 

APPLE   FLOATING   ISLAND. 

Bake  or  scald  eight  or  nine  large  apples  j 
when  cold  pare  and  pulp  them  through  a  sieve, 
beat  this  up  with  fine  sugar ;  put  to  it  the 
whites  of  four  or  five  eggs  dial  have  been 
beaten  with  a  little  rose  water ;  mix  it  a  lit- 
tle at  a  time,  and  beat  it  till  it  is  light;  heap 
it  on  a  rich  custard  or  on  jelly. 

APPLE  FOOL.  Pare,  core,  and  cut 
into  diin  bits,  some  good  stewing  apples; 
stew  diem  till  tender,  with  a  little  water, 
two  cloves,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  the  peel 
of  half  a  lemon ;  pulp  half  a  pound  through  a 
sieve,  and  add  the  same  weight  of  brown  sugar, 
tlie  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs;  beat  them  all  togedier  for  an  hour. 
Sene  it  upon  rich  cream,  or  a  boiled  custard, 
in  a  glass  dish.  It  may  be  made  in  the  same 
way  as  the  gooseberiy  fool,  as  may  also  stew- 
ed rhubai'b. 

APPLE  FRAZE.  Cut  apples  into  thick 
slices,  and  fi-y  them  of  a  clear  light  brown ; 
take  them  from  the  pan,  and  lay  them  "to 
drain ;  they  may  be  pared  or  not ;  then  make 
a  batter.  Take  five  eggs,  leaving  out  two 
whites,  beat  them  up  with  cream  or  flour, 
and  a  little  white  wine,  make  it  of  the  con- 
sistence of  pancake  batter ;  pour  in  a  little 
melted  butter,  mixed  wiUi  nutmeg  and  sugar. 
Let  the  batter  be  hot,  and  drop  in  the  fi-itters, 
laying  on  eveiy  one  a  slice  of  apple,  and  then 
a  spoonful  of  batter  on  each.  Fiy  them  of 
a  pale  brown,  when  taken  up,  strew  double- 
refined  sugar  all  over  tiiem. 

APPLE  FRITTERS.  (1)  Beat  the 
yolks  of  eight  eggs,  the  whites  of  four,  well 
together,  sti^ain  them  into  a  pan ;  then  take 
a  quart  of  cream,  make  it  moderately  hot, 
and  add  two  glasses  of  sack,  three-quarters 
of  a  pint  of  ale,  and  mix  them  well  together 
When  it  is  cool^put  to  it  the  eggs,  Ijeating 
it  well  together,  then  add  nutmeg  and  ginger 
gi-ated,  salt  and  flour  at  pleasiue.  The  bat- 
ter should  be  pretty  thick ;  then  put  in  sliced 
apples,  or  scraped  pippins,  and  fry  diem  quick 
in  butter. 

APPLE    FRITTERS.       (2)      Pare, 

core,  and  cut  your  apples  into  cjuarters,  soak 
them  for  two  or  three  hours  in  brandy,  sugar, 
green  lemon-peel,  and  orange  flower  water; 
when  they  have  thoroughly  imbibed  the  fla- 
vor of  these  ingredients,  drain,  and  put  them 


APP 


5 


APP 


into  a  cloth  well  sprinkled  with  flour,  and 
shake  them  so  that  tlie  flour  may  adhere  all 
over  them ;  fry  them  of  a  good  color,  glaze 
with  sugar  and  a  hot  salamander. 

APPLE  FRITTERS.  (3)  Stew 
some  apjjles  cut  small,  together  with  a  little 
water,  t>ugar,  lemon-peel,  and  cinnamon; 
when  soft,  add  a  little  white  wine,  die  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter ;  when 
cold,  mix  diem  wiUi  a  batter,  as  for  Tun- 
bridge  puffs,  or  enclose  them  in  rounds  of  puff 
paste.  Fry,  and  serve  them  with  sifted  loaf 
sugar  over  diem. 

APPLE  FRITTERS.  (4)  Four  well- 
beaten  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  two  Uible 
spoonfuls  of  yeiist,  three  of  white  wine,  and 
two  of  rose  water ;  half  a  tea  spoonful  uf  gra- 
ted nutmeg,  and  of  salt ;  make  it  into  a  tliick 
batter  with  flour,  peel  and  core  two  or  three 
apples,  cut  them  into  diin  bits,  and  mix  tliem 
widi  the  batter ;  cover  it  over,  let  it  stand, 
placed  near  the  fire,  about  an  hour ;  diop  it 
into  boiling  lard,  and  serve  them  in  a  napkin 
with  sugar  strewed  over  them.  Gooseberries 
previously  stewed  may  be  done  in  the  same 
way. 

APPLES,  GLAZED.  Peel  a  doz-en  of 
apples  and  leave  the  tails;  gore  at  the  oppo- 
site side  not  quite  Uirough,  and  boil  diem 
widi  half  a  pint  of  red  wine,  some  sugar, 
and  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  simmer  slowly  that 
they  may  not  break ;  when  ncaily  done,  take 
Uiem  out,  leduce  the  sirup  to  a  caramel,  and 
put  in  the  apples,  rubbing  them  all  over  with 
It ;  or  you  may  wrap  them  in  a  paste,  rasp 
sugar  over,  bake  a  short  time,  and  glaze  witli 
a  white  glaze. 

APPLE  MARMALADE.  (1)  Boil 
some  pippins  till  they  begin  to  get  tender,  dien 
put  diem  into  cold  water;  pare  and  core 
them ;  squeeze  the  pulp  through  a  sieve  and 
put  it  over  the  fire,  letting  it  lemaui  till  it  Ije- 
comes  very  diick ;  then  weigh  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  fine  sugar ;  boil  it  till  die  sugar  arises  in 
sparkles  which  cluster  together ;  put  the  mar- 
malade to  it,  and  stir  Uiem  well  with  a  wood- 
en spoon  till  die  apple  begins  to  boil ;  then 
take  it  off"  and  when  a  little  cool,  put  it  into 
pots,  but  do  not  cover  them  till  quite  cold. 

APPLE  MARMALADE.  (2)  Pare, 
core,  and  cut  your  apples  into  small  pieces, 
put  them  into  water  w  ith  a  little  lemon-juice 
to  keep  thcin  white.  Take  them  out  after  a 
short  time  and  drain  them.  Weigh,  and  put 
them  into  a  stew-pan ;  if  for  present  use,  half 
a  pound  of  sugar  will  be  sufficient  for  each 
pound  of  apples,  but  if  for  keeping,  double 
diat  quantity  will  be  necessary.  Add  to  it  a 
stick  of  cinnamon  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
1* 


Put  tlie  stew-pan  over  a  brisk  fire  and  cover 
it ;  when  die  apples  are  pulped  stir  die  mix- 
tm-e  till  of  the  proper  consistence:  then  put 
die  marmalade  into  jx)ts. 

APPLES  IN  PANCAKES.  Cut  some 
apples  vei-y  small,  stew  them  with  a  little 
white  wine,  grated  lemon-peel,  pounded  cin- 
namon, and  bi-own  sugar;  mash  them,  and 
spread  it  o\ev  pancakes ;  roll  diem  up,  and 
sene  widi  sifted  loaf  sugar  over  them. 

APPLE  POUPETON.  Pare  some 
good  baking  apples,  take  out  the  cores,  and 
put  them  into  a  skillet;  to  a  pound  and  a 
,  half  of  ap'ples,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  su- 
gar, and  a  wine  glass  of  water.  Do  diem 
over  a  slow  fire,  add  a  little  cinnamon,  and 
keep  them  stining.  When  of  Uie  consist- 
ence of  a  marmalade,  let  it  stand  till  cool ; 
beat  up  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  stir  in  four 
table  spoonfuls  of  grated  biead,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  poiDid  of  fresh  butter ;  then  form  it  into 
shape,  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  turn  it  upside 
down  on  a  plate,  and  serve. 

APPLE  PRESER\nE.  (See  Pre- 
serves.) 

APPLES  AND  RAISINS.  Pareandcut 
twelve  apples  into  quarters,  and  each  quarter 
into  four  pieces,  put  diem  into  a  pan  with  four 
ounces  of  good  fresh  butter,  two  of  sugai-,  over 
which  the  zeste  of  an  oiange  has  been  grated, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  |X)und  of  currants  well 
washed ;  toss  up  these  ingsedients  over  a  mod- 
erate fire  for  a  few  minutes  and  dien  let  them 
cool.  Make  a  round  under-crust  seven  inch- 
es in  diameter,  moisten  the  edge  and  put  on 
it  a  Ijand  of  puff  paste  three-cjuarters  of  an 
inch  high  and  half  an  inch  tiiick ;  put  your 
a|)ples,  &c.  in  this  so  a^  to  form  a  sort  of 
dome,  cover  diem  with  the  pu(f  paste,. taking 
care  that  it  does  not  extend  beyond  the  band, 
upon  which  it  must  be  piessed  down ;  wash 
it  over  widi  while  of  eg^,  and  bake  it 
in  a  gentle  oven  f^r  about  an  hour.  When 
a  little  cooled,  ttike  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
whipped  to  a  strong  tioth  and  mixed  with 
two  ounces  of  powder  sugar,  and  mask  with 
it  your  cake,  si)rinkling  it  widi  sifted  su- 
gar; then,  having  drained  and  dried  some 
currants,  mix  diem  widi  sugar,  and  strew 
diem  over  die  dome ;  form  a  crown  of  small 
meringues  with  die  remainder  of  the  white 
of  egg,  and  place  it  on  the  band ;  cover  them 
with  sifted  sugar,  and  color  die  whole  of  a 
clear  yellow  in  die  oven,  and  then  serve  im- 
mediately. 

APPLES  IN  RICE.  (1)  Scoop  om 
the  cores,  and  pare,  very  neatly,  half  a  doz- 
en good-sized  apples ;  boil  them  in  diin,  clari- 
fied sugar ;  let  them  imbibe  die  sugar,  and 


APR 


6 


APR 


be  careful  to  preserve  tlieir  form.  Make  a 
marmalade  with  some  other  apples,  adding 
to  it  apricot  mannalade,  and  four  ounces  of 
rice  previously  boiled  in  milk,  with  sugar  and 
butter,  and  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs ; 
put  them  into  a  dish  for  table,  surround  it 
with  a  border  of  rice,  and  place  the  whole  ap- 
ples in  tiie  rice,  and  marmalade  and  bake  it. 
When  done,  put  into  each  of  the  apples  a  tea 
spoonful  of  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  you  may 
think  proper. 

APPLES  IN  RICE.  (2)  Pare,  core, 
and  cut  foiu*  or  five  good  apples  in  quarters ; 
boil  some  rice  in  a  cloth,  and  when  soft  put 
in  the  apples,  tie  it  up  very  loose,  and  boil 
gently  till  sufficiently  done. 

APPLE  SOUFFLET.  Prepare  apples 
as  for  baking  in  a  pudding,  put  them  into  a 
deep  dish,  and  lay  upon  the  top,  alx)ut  an 
inch  and  a  half  thick,  rice  boiled  in  new 
milk  with  sugar;  beat  to  a  stiff"  froth  the 
whites  of  two  or  three  eggs,  with  a  little  sift- 
ed loaf  sugar,  lay  it  upon  die  rice,  and  bake 
it  in  an  oven  a  light  brown.  Serve  it  instant- 
ly when  done. 

APPLE  A  LA  TURQUE.  Neatly  pare 
and  pierce  out  the  cores  of  eight  or  ten  ap- 
ples, j)ut  them  on  the  fire  with  a  thin  sirup 
of  clai-ified  sugar,  cover  them  close  and  let 
them  simmer  gently;  turn  them,  that  both 
sides  may  be  done.  When  thoroughly  done 
lay  them  on  a  dish,  with  a  wet  paper  over 
them.  Put  a  paste  round  the  dish  you  serve 
them  in,  and  bake  in  a  gentle  oven  to  hai-den 
it,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  apple  sauce,  over 
which  put  the  apples,  and  fill  the  holes  where 
the  cores  were  with  dried  cherries  or  ap- 
ricot jam,  then  cover  it  with  the  apple  sauce ; 
beat  up  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  froth, 
and  add  powder  sugar  till  they  appear  quite 
smooth ;  make  the  apples  warm,  and  lay  the 
white  of  egg  over  them,  smooth  it  neatly  over, 
and  sift  some  powder  sugar  over  it ;  color  it 
in  a  gentle  oven. 

APPLE  WATER.  Cut  three  or  four 
large  apples  into  slices,  put  them  into  a  jug, 
and  pour  a  qiiait  of  boiling  water  over  them ; 
cover  the  jug.  When  quite  cold,  strain  and 
sweeten  it,  and  add  a  little  lemon-juice. 

APRICOTS  IN  BRANDY.  Weigh 
equal  quantities  of  loaf  sugar  and  of  apricots ; 
scald  them,  and  take  off  the  skins.  Clarify 
and  boil  the  sugar,  put  die  fruit  into  it,  a'ld 
let  it  remain  for  two  or  three  days ;  put  the 
apricots  into  glasses.  Mix  witli  the  sirup 
the  best  pale  brandy,  half  and  iialf,  and  pour 
it  over  the  apricots  and  kee[)  them  closely 
covered.  Peaches  and  nectai'ines  may  be 
iione  in  the  same  way. 


APRICOTS,    CHARLOTTE    OF. 

Choose  twenty-four  fine,  plump,  but  not  too 
ripe,  apricots,  pare  and  divide  them  into 
eight  parts,  toss  them  up  in  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fine  sugar,  and  two  ounces  of  warm 
butter ;  in  the  meantime  line  a  mould  as  di- 
rected (see  Charlotte) ;  })our  in  the  apri- 
cots, and  finish  as  usual.  When  turned  on 
your  dish,  cover  it  lightly  with  apricot  mar- 
malade, and  serve  it  immediately. 

APRICOTS  TO  DRY.  Pare  tlie  apri- 
cots, and  carefully  take  out  the  stones ;  blanch 
tlie  kernels,  and  put  them  into  the  apricots ; 
strew  over  a  pound  of  fruit  the  same  quantity 
of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  let  them 
stand  till  the  sugar  has  extracted  the  juice, 
then  boil  all  togeUier  gently ;  when  the  frxiit 
is  tender,  take  it  out  with  cave,  and  boil  the 
sirup  till  very  rich ;  pour  it  over  the  fruit, 
and  in  tlii'ee  days  put  it  upon  dishes,  and  dry 
tliem  in  the  sun  under  garden  glasses,  turning 
them  once  or  twice  a-day,  to  keep  the  shape 
as  round  as  possible.  Any  infeiior  apricots 
may  be  cut  down  and  boiled  in  the  sirup,  for 


APRICOT   MARMALADE.      Take 

some  fine  apricots,  and  choose  from  amongst 
them  those  which  ai'e  of  the  deepest  yellow 
and  the  ripest,  (they  must  not  be  too  ripe.) 
Peel  them,  tal<e  out  the  stones,  and  chop  them 
up ;  weigh  twelve  pounds  of  them  and  put 
them  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  nine  pounds 
of  powder  sugar ;  place  your  pan  over  a  quick 
fire,  and  keep  your  preparation  constantly 
stirring  with  a  long  wooden  spoon.  To  find 
out  when  die  marmalade  is  sufficiently  done, 
let  a  few  drops  fall  into  a  glass  of  cold  water, 
and  if  they  do  not  spiead  in  tiie  water  your 
marmalade  is  ready  to  put  into  pots.  An- 
other method  of  ascertaining  when  your  mar- 
malade is  done  is  by  taking  some  on  the  end  of 
your  finger  and  thumb,  and  just  rub  them  to- 
gether, and  if  on  separating  them  you  find  the 
marmalade  forms  a  thread,  it  is  sufficiently 
done. 

APRICOTS   A  LA    PORTUGAISE. 

Take  a  dozen  of  ripe  apricots,  cut  them  in 
half,  and  take  out  the  stones ;  place  them  on 
a  silver  plate,  and  pour  over  some  clarified 
sugar,  with  a  little  water;  put  them  on  a 
stove  without  covering  them ;  when  suffi- 
ciently done,  take  fliem  fi-oin  the  fire,  and 
strew  sugar  over;  then  put  on  tlie  lid  of  the 
baliing-pan  under  die  fire,  to  make  diem  of  a 
good  color. 

APRICOTS,  WHOLE.  Choose  the  fin- 
est yellow,  but  not  too  ripe,  ajn-icots;  take 
off  the  stalks,  prick  them  on  each  side  with 
a  pin,  make  an  incision  with  the  point  of 
a  knife,  dirough   wliich   extiact  die  stone 


ART 


ASP 


Then  put  them  on  the  fire  with  as  much  wa- 
ter as  will  cover  them,  until  near  boiling, 
when,  if  soft,  the  apricots  should  be  tlirown 
into  cold  water ;  take  care  they  are  all  equal- 
ly tender.  Drain  them  on  a  hurdle,  and  in 
the  meantime  clarify  and  boil  some  sugar 
to  the  degree  you  require;  put  in  a  little 
water,  and  when  it  boils  remove  it  from  the 
fire,  and  add  to  it  the  fruit,  and  having  given 
them  a  few  boilings  together,  let  them  cool, 
then  drain  and  place  them  in  your  compoiiers. 

ARTICHOKES     AND     ALMOiNDS. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  blanch- 
ed and  beat  fine,  with  two  tea  spoonfuls 
of  orange-flower  or  rose  water ;  tiien  tcd<^e 
a  quart  of  cream,  and  boil  it  with  a  small 
quantity  of  cinnamon  and  mace ;  sweeten  it 
with  fine  sugar,  and  mix  it  with  die  almonds ; 
stir  them  together,  and  strain  it  through  a 
sieve.  Let  the  cream  cool,  and  tliicken  it 
with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs;  then  garnish  a 
deep  disli,  and  lay  paste  at  the  bottom ;  then 
put  in  shred  artichoke  bottoms,  being  first 
boiled ;  and  upon  these  a  little  melted  butter, 
shred  citron,  and  candied  orange;  repeating 
the  same  until  the  dish  is  nearly  full,  then 
pour  in  tlie  cream,  and  bake  it  without  a  lid. 
When  it  is  baked,  grate  sugar  over  it,  and 
serve  it  hot.  Half  an  hour  will  serve  to 
bake  it. 

ARTICHOKES  BOILED.  Soak  them 
in  cold  water,  wash  them  well,  then  put  them 
into  plenty  of  boiling  water,  with  a  handfiil 
of  salt,  and  let  them  boil  gently  till  they  are 
tender,  which  will  take  an  hour  and  a  half, 
or  two  hours :  the  surest  way  to  know  when 
they  are  done  enough,  is  to  diaw  out  a  leaf; 
trim  them  and  drain  them  on  a  sieve ;  and 
send  up  melted  butter  with  them,  which  some 
put  into  small  cups,  so  tliat  each  guest  may 
have  one. 

ARTICHOKES  TO  BOIL.  Cut  off  the 
stalks  close  to  the  bottom,  wash  them  well, 
and  let  diem  lie  for  some  hours  in  cold  wa- 
ter; put  them  on  in  boiling  water  with  a 
little  Gait  in  it,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and 
boil  tliem  an  hour  and  a  half.  If  they  are 
old,  and  have  not  been  fiesh  gadiered,  they 
will  take  a  longer  time  to  boil.  Melted  but- 
{ev  is  served  with  them  in  a  sauce-tui'een. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  to  Dry 
AND  Pickle.  Half  boil  the  artichokes, 
strip  off  the  leaves,  and  pull  out  the  choke ; 
put  the  bottoms  into  small  jars,  and  cover 
tliem  with  a  cold  boiled  brine  of  salt  and 
water ;  put  melted  mutton  suet  on  the  top  to 
exclude  the  air,  and  tie  bladder  over  them. 
To  dry  them,  they  are  boiled  as  for  eating, 
the  leaves  and  choke  pulled  out,  and  the  bot- 
toms di'ied  upon  dishes  in  an  oven,  and  then 


kept  in  paper  bags.  When  lo  be  dressed, 
they  must  be  laid  into  warm  water,  and  soak- 
ed for  two  or  tlwee  hours ;  they  may  then  be 
plain  boiled,  and  eaten  with  melted  butter, 
or  stewed  in  gravy  with  a  little  mushroom 
catsup,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  thickened  with 
a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  They  are  a 
great  improvement  to  all  made  dishes  and 
meat  pies. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  PICKLED. 

Boil  the  artichokes  till  the  leaves  can  be  pull- 
ed off  without  breaking  the  bottoms ;  leave 
on  the  part  called  the  choke,  set  them  aside 
till  cold,  then  put  them  into  wide-mouthed 
bottles.  Boil,  in  vinegar,  some  salt,  pepper, 
mace,  and  sliced  nutmeg,  and,  when  cold, 
pour  it  over  the  artichokes ;  tie  bladder  over 
the  bottles. 

ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM.     (1) 

Are  boiled  and  dressed  in  tlie  various  ways  di- 
rected for  potatoes.  N.  B — They  should  be 
covered  with  thick  melted  butter,  or  a  nice 
white  or  brown  sauce. 

ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM.    (2) 

They  must  be  neatly  peeled,  and  boiled  very 
gently  by  the  side  of  the  stove,  with  a  little 
salt  m  the  water ;  when  done  (but  not  too 
much,  or  they  will  not  look  well)  place  them 
on  tlie  dish,  and  serve  witli  plain  butter,  or 
any  other  sauce  you  please. 

ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  to 
Fricassee.  Wash  and  scrape  or  pare 
them ;  boil  them  in  milk  and  water  till  they 
are  soft,  which  will  be  from  a  quarter  to  half 
an  hour.  Take  them  out  and  stew  them  a  , 
few  minutes  in  the  f(;l!owing  sauce: — Roll  a 
bit  of  butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut,  in  flour, 
mix  it  with  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk ; 
season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nut- 
meg. They  may  l^  served  plain  boiled, 
with  a  little  melted  butter  poured  over 
them.     Scorzonei-a  is  fricasseed  in  the  same 


ARROW-ROOT.  Mix  with  two  or 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  arrow-root  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water ;  let  it  stand  for  nearly  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  pour  off  the  water,  and 
stir  in  some  pounded  sugai*;  boil  a  pint  of 
milk,  and  pour  it  gradually  upon  the  arrow- 
root, stirring  it  one  way  all  the  time.  Or 
it  may  be  made  with  water  in  which  lemon- 
peel  has  been  Iwiled,  and  then  a  glass  of  Port 
or  white  wine  and  a  little  nutmeg  stirred 
into  it. 

ASPARAGUS.  Set  a  stew-pan  with 
plenty  of  water  in  it  on  the  fire ;  sprinkle  a 
handful  of  salt  in  it ;  let  it  boil,  and  skim  it; 
then  put  in  your  asparagus,  prepared  thus: 


ASP 


8 


BAC 


scrape  all  the  stalks  till  they  are  perfectly 
clean ;  tlirow  tliem  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  as 
you  scrape  them ;  when  they  are  all  done,  tie 
them  up  in  little  bundles,  of  about  a  quarter 
of  a  hundred  each,  with  bass,  if  you  can  get 
it,  or  tape  (string  cuts  them  to  pieces ; )  cut 
off  the  stalks  at  the  bottom  that  they  may  be 
all  of  a  length,  leaving  only  just  enough  to 
serve  as  a  handle  for  the  green  part ;  when 
they  are  tender  at  the  stalk,  which  will  be 
in  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  they  are 
done  enough.  Great  care  must  be  talcen  to 
watch  the  exact  time  of  their  becoming  ten- 
der; take  tliem  up  just  at  that  instant,  and 
they  will  have  their  true  flavor  and  color: 
a  minute  or  two  more  boiling  destroys  both. 
While  the  asparagus  is  boiling,  toast  a  round 
of  a  quartern  loaf,  about  half  an  inch  thick ; 
brown  it  delicately  on  both  sides;  dip  it 
lightly  in  tlie  liquor  the  asparagus  was  boiled 
in,  and  lay  it  in  die  middle  of  a  dish:  melt 
some  butter,  then  lay  in  the  asparagus  upon 
the  toast,  which  must  project  beyond  the  as- 
paragus, that  the  company  may  see  there  is 
a  toast. 

ASPARAGUS,  BOILED.  Scrape  and 
tie  them  in  small  bundles;  cut  them  even, 
boil  them  quick  i^i  salt  and  water ;  lay  tlxm 
on  a  toast  dipped  in  tlie  v.  ater  the  asparagus 
was  boiled  in ;  pom*  over  them  melted  butter. 

ASPARAGUS  AND  EGGS.  Toast  a 
slice  of  bread,  butter  it,  and  lay  it  on  a  dish ; 
butter  some  eggs  thus:  take  four  eggs,  beat 
lliem  well,  put  them  into  a  sauce  pan  witli 
two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt,  until 
of  a  sufficient  consistence,  and  lay  them  on 
the  toast;  meanwhile  boil  some  asparagus 
tender,  cut  tlie  ends  small,  and  lay  them  on 
tlie  eggs. 

ASPARAGUS,  FRENCH.  BoiHt,and 
chop  small  the  heads  and  tender  part  of  tlie 
stalks,  together  with  a  boiled  onion;  add  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  and  tlie  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg ;  beat  it  up.  Serve  it  on  sippets  of 
toasted  bread,  and  pour  over  it  a  little  melt- 
ed butter. 

ASPARAGUS  SOUP.     (See  S<mps.) 

ASPICK.  Take  a  knuckle  of  veal,  a 
knuckle  of  ham,  a  tliick  slice  of  beef,  and  if 
they  will  not  make  your  jelly  stiff  enough, 
add  two  calf's  feet,  or  some  swards  of  bacon 
I'asped ;  put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  widi  a  pint 
of  rich  stock,  and  sweat  it  over  a  stove  til) 
reduced  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  it  with  stock, 
boil  and  skim  it  well.  Put  to  it  two  onions, 
two  carrot.*,  salt,  parsley,  scallions,  four  cloves, 
two  bay  leaves,  and  a  clove  of  garlick ;  let 
the  whole  stew  for  seven  hours,  dicn  strain  off 
the  liquor  or  consomme.     Break  four  eggs 


into  a  stewpan,  and  put  to  diem  the  consomme 
when  cold,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  two 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon,  and  beat  it  with  a 
whisk  over  the  file  till  near  boiling,  and  w  hen 
it  does  so,  remove  your  stew-pan  to  a  smaller 
fire,  and  place  fire  on  die  hd  for  half  an  hour; 
then  pass  it  dii'ough  a  wet  napkin  doubled. 
If  the  jelly  is  not  sufficiently  clear,  clarify  it 
a  second  time.  Put  a  layer  of  tliis  jelly,  about 
half  an  inch  tliick,  at  the  bottom  of  an  aspick 
mould,  garnish  itwidi  tiufiles,  whites  of  eggs, 
sprigs  of  parsley,  &c.  according  to  your  taste, 
pour  in  anodier  half  inch  of  the  jelly,  while 
liquid,  with  great  care,  so  as  not  to  discom- 
pose your  garnish,  then  put  either  calf's 
brains,  breasts  of  fowl,  veal  sweetbreads, 
cocks'  combs,  kidneys,  fat  livers,  or  game. 
Be  sui'e  to  lay  whatever  you  may  use,  as  equal 
and  smooth  as  possible,  tlien  fill  up  yoiu-  mould 
with  jelly,  and  let  it  stand  till  set.  When 
wanted,  dip  tlie  mould  in  hot  water  an  in- 
stant, place  your  dish  on  Uie  top  and  turn  it 
over. 

ATTELETS,  OYSTER.      {See  Oya- 
ters.) 

ATTELETS  are  silver  skewers, 

AUNT    MARY'S  PUDDING.     {Set 
Puddings.) 


B. 

BACCHIC  CREAM.  (See  Cream.) 

BACCHIC  SAUCE.  (See  Sauce.) 

BACON.  Cover  a  pound  of  nice  streaked 
bacon  or  salt  pork  with  cold  water,  let  it  boil 
gently  for  three-tiuarters  of  an  hour ;  take  it 
up,  scrape  die  under  side  well,  and  cut  oflF 
the  rind:  grate  a  crust  of  bread  not  only  on 
die  top,  but  all  over  it,  and  put  it  before  die 
fire  for  a  few  minutes:  it  must  not  be  there 
too  long,  or  it  will  dry  it  and  spoil  it.  Two 
pounds  will  require  about  an  houi-  and  a  half, 
according  to  its  thickness ;  the  hoc  k  or  giun- 
mon  being  very  thick,  will  take  more.  The 
boiling  of  bacon  is  a  very  simple  subject  to 
com-.ient  upon;  but  our  main  object  is  to 
teach  common  cooks  die  art  of  dressing  com- 
mon food  in  die  best  manner.  Bacon  is 
sometimes  as  salt  as  .salt  can  make  it,  there- 
fore bef(Me  it  is  boiled  it  must  be  soalved  in 
warm  water  for  an  hour  or  two,  c-lianging 
the  water  once;  then  pare  off  the  rusty  and 
smoked  part,  trim  it  nicely  on  die  under  side, 
and  scrape  die  rind  as  clean  as  jwssible. 
3 1  em. — Bacon  is  an  extia\agant  article  in 
housekeeping;  there  is  often  twice  as  much 
dressed  as  need  be:  when  it  is  sent  to  ta- 
lkie as  an  accompanimct  to  boiled  poulti-y 


BAC 


BAR 


w  veal,  a  pound  and  a  half  is  plenty  for  a  doz- 
en people.  A  good  German  sausage  is  a 
very  economical  substiltite  for  bacon ;  or  filed 
pork  sausages. 

Note. — Bacon  in  England  and  salt 
pork  in  America  are  the  same  thing. 
What  we  name  bacon,  the  English  call 
ham. 

BACON  TO  BROIL.  Make  up  a  sheet 
of  paper  into  the  form  of  a  dripping-pan ;  cut 
your  bacon  into  thin  slices,  cut  oft'  tlie  rind, 
lay  the  bacon  on  the  paper,  put  it  upon  tlie 
gridiron,  set  over  a  slow  fire,  and  it  will 
Broil  cleanly. 

BACON  AND  EGGS.  Cut  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  into  thin  slices, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  over  a  slow  fire, 
taking  care  to  tm-n  them  fiequently;  when 
sufficiently  done,  pour  the  melted  fat  of  the 
bacon  into  a  dish,  bi"eak  over  it  seven  or  eight 
eggs,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  gravy,  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  the  whole  over  a 
slow  fixe :  pass  a  salamander  over  it,  and 
serve. 

BACON,  GAMMON,  TO  BAKE.    Lay 

it  to  steep  all  night  in  water,  scrape  it  clean, 
and  stuff  it  with  all  manner  of  sweet  herbs, 
as  thjrme,  sage,  savory,  sweet  marjoram,  pen- 
ny-royal, strawberry  leaves,  violet  leaves,  and 
fennel;  chop  these  small,  and  mix  tliem  with 
the  yolks  of  hard  eggs,  pepper  and  nutmeg 
beaten,  and  boil  it  until  tender.  When  it  is 
cold  pare  off  the  under  side,  pull  off  the  skin, 
season  it  widi  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  put  it 
in  a  pie  or  pasty,  with  whole  cloves  and  slices 
of  raw  bacon  laid  over  it,  and  butter ;  close  it, 
and  bake  it. 

BACON  OR  HAM  SLICES.  Ham,  or 
bacon,  may  be  fried,  or  broiled  on  a  gridiron 
over  a  clear  fire,  or  toasted  with  a  fork:  take 
care  to  slice  it  of  die  same  thickness  in  every 
part.  If  you  wish  it  curled,  cut  it  in  slices 
about  two  inches  long  (if  longer,  the  outside 
will  he  done  too  much  before  the  inside  is 
done  enough);  roll  it  up,  and  put  a  little 
wooden  skewer  through  it :  put  it  in  a  cheese- 
toaster  or  Dutch  oven,  for  eight  or  ten  minutes, 
turning  it  as  it  gets  crisp.  This  is  considered 
the  handsomest  way  of  dressing  bacon ;  but 
we  like  it  best  uncurled,  because  it  is  crisper, 
and  more  equally  done.  Slices  of  ham  or 
bacon  should  not  be  more  than  half  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  will  eat  much  more 
mellow  if  soaked  in  hot  water  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  and  then  dried  in  a  cloth  before 
they  ai'e  broiled,  &c. 

BACON  RELISHING  RASHERS. 
If  you  have  any  cold  b^con,  you  may  ma^^ 


a  very  nice  dish  of  it  by  cntting  it  into  slice* 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  grate  some 
crust  of  bread,  as  directed  for  ham  and  pow- 
der diem  well  with  it  on  both  sides ;  lay  the 
rashei-s  in  a  cheese-toaster,  diey  will  be 
browned  on  one  side  in  about  three  minutes, 
tui-n  tiiem  and  do  the  other.  These  are  a 
delicious  accompaniment  to  poached  or  fried 
eggs:  the  bacon  having  been  boiled  first,  is 
tender  and  mellow.  They  are  an  exceUent 
garnish  round  veal  cutlets,  or  sweetbreads, 
or  calf's  head  hash,  or  green  peas  or  beans^ 
&c. 

BAIN  MARIE.  A  flat  vessel,  contain- 
ing boiling  water,  meant  to  hold  other  sauce- 
pans, eidier  for  purposes  of  cookeiy  or  to  keep 
dishes  hot.  The  advantages  of  preserving 
the  heat  of  dishes  by  the  bain  marie  is  this, 
that  no  change  is  effected  in  the  flavor  of 
the  ingredients. 

BALM  BEER.    {See  Beer.) 

BANBURY    CAKES.     {See   Cakes.) 

BARLEY  CREAM.    {See  Cream.) 

BARLEY  WATER.  Take  a  couple  of 
oimces  of  pearl  barley,  wash  it  clean  with 
cold  water,  put  it  into  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  boil  for  five  minutes ;  pour 
off  this  water,  and  add  to  it  two  quarts  of 
boihng  water:  boil  it  to  two  pints,  and  strain 
it.  The  above  is  simple  barley  water.  To 
a  quart  of  this  is;  fi-equently  added  two  ounces 
of  rigs,  sliced ;  the  same  of  raisins,  stoned ; 
half  an  ounce  of  liquorice,  sliced  and  bruised ; 
and  a  pint  of  water.  Boil  it  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  a  quart,  and  strain.  Obs. — These 
drinks  are  intended  to  assuage  thirst  in  ardent 
fevers  and  inflammatory  disorders,  for  which 
plenty  of  mild  diluting  liquor  is  one  of  the 
principal  remedies :  and  if  not  suggested  by 
the  medical  attendant,  is  frequently  demanded 
by  honest  instinct,  in  terms  too  plain  to  be 
misundeistood :  the  stomach  sympadiizes  with 
every  fibre  of  the  human  frame,  and  no  part  of 
it  can  be  distressed  widiout  in  some  degree 
offending  the  stomach :  tiierefore  it  is  of  the 
utmost  impoitance  to  sooth  this  grand  organ, 
by  rendering  everything  we  offer  to  it  as 
elegant  and  agreeable  as  tht  nature  of  the 
case  will  admit  of:  the  barley  drink  prepared 
according  to  die  second  receipt,  will  be  re- 
ceived with  pleasure  by  the  most  delicate 
palate. 

BARLEY  BROTH.     {See  Broth.) 

BARLEY  GRUEL.  Take  Uiree  ounces 
of  pearl  barley,  of  which  make  a  quart  of 
barley  water ;  if  it  be  not  white,  shift  it  once 
or  twice ;  put  in  two  ounces  of  ciurants  cleeg^ 


B£A 


10 


BEE 


picked  aiid  waslied,  and  when  tliey  ane  plump- 
ed, pour  out  the  gmel  and  let  it  cool  a  little; 
tlien  put  in  the  yolks  of  tliree  eggs  well  teat- 
en,  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  of  new 
thick  cream  half  a  pint,  and  lemon-peel ; 
tlien  sweeten  witli  fine  sugar  to  your  taste ; 
stir  it  gently  over  the  fire,  until  it  is  thick  as 
creaun. 

BARLEY  PUDDING.  ( See  Pud- 
ding.) 

BARBERRY  JELLY.    {See  Jelly.) 

BARBERRY  CONSERVE.  Put  a  pound 
of  ripe  barberries  and  half  an  ounce  of  pow- 
dered fennel  seed  into  a  silver  vessel,  wiUi  a 
glass  of  water ;  boil  them  tlu'ee  or  four  times, 
and  press  the  juice  tlirough  a  sieve.  Replace 
the  vessel  on  the  fire  witJi  the  juice,  and  add 
to  it  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  boiled  au 
casse.  Boil  together  a  few  times,  and  then 
pour  the  conserve  into  cases. 

BARBERRY  SIRUP.     {See  Sirup.) 

BARBERRIES  TO  PICKLE.  Boil  the 
bruised  berries  of  a  few  bunches  in  salt- 
and-water;  strain,  and  put  a  gill  of  the 
liquor  to  a  quart  of  vinegar,  with  an  ounce 
of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar, 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pounded  ginger,  and 
a  little  sliced  horse-radish ;  boil  and  strain 
it,  then  pour  it  hot  over  the  bai-berries,  tlie 
finest  bunches  having  been  previously  select- 
ed and  placed  in  jars ;  when  cold,  cover  them 
closely  wjtll  bladder.  They  may  also  be 
kept  in  a  jar,  with  a  strong  brine  of  salt-and- 
water  poured  over  them.  When  any  scum 
is  observed  upon  tlie  surface,  the  brine  must 
be  jK)ured  oflf,  and  some  fi-esli  added.  They 
are  kept  closely  covered. 

BARBERRY  SIRUP.    (See  Sirup.) 

BASIL  VINEGAR.    (See  Vinegar.) 

BATH  BUNS.    (See  Buns.) 

BATTER  FOR  FISH,  MEAT,  FRIT- 
TERS, &c.  Prepare  it  wiUi  fine  flour,  salt, 
a  little  oil,  beer,  vinegar,  or  white  wine  and 
the  whites  of  eggs  beat  up ; .  when  of  a  proper 
thickness  it  will  drop  out  of  the  spoon  about 
the  size  of  a  nutmeg  at  once.  Fry  in  oil  or 
hog's  lard. 

BATTER  PUDDING.  (See  Pud- 
ding.) 

BEANS.  Cut,  wash,  and  boil  the  beans, 
and  then  throw  them  into  a  cullender.  Put  a 
piece  of  butter  into  your  table-dish,  lay  the 
beans  on  it,  and  garnish  tliem  widi  chopped 


parsley  laid  round  like  a  cord ;  heat  the  dish 
and  serve. 

BECHAMELLE.  Reduce  some  sauce 
toumee  over  a  good  fire,  moisten  with  chick- 
en broUi  or  consomme,  constantly  stirring  to 
prevent  its  catching ;  when  of  theproper  con- 
sifelence,  add  two  glasses  of  boiling  cream, 
continue  stirring ;  pass  it  du-ough  a  hair  sieve 
and  serve. 

BECHAMEL,  OR  WHITE  SAUCE. 

Cut  in  square  pieces,  half  an  inch  thick,  two 
pounds  of  lean  veal,  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham ; 
melt  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  butter; 
when  melted,  let  die  whole  simmer  until  it 
is  ready  to  catch  at  Uie  bottom  (it  requires 
great  attention,  as,  if  it  happen  to  catch  at 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  it  will  spoil  the 
look  of  your  sauce) ;  Uien  add  to  it  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour ;  when  well  mixed, 
add  to  it  thiee  pints  of  broUi  or  water  (pour 
a  litde  at  a  time,  thai  the  thickening  be 
smooth);  stir  it  until  it  boil;  put  the  stew- 
pan on  die  corner  of  die  stove  to  boil  gently 
for  two  hours ;  season  it  with  four  cloves, 
one  onion,  twelve  pepper-corns,  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  few  muslirooms  and  a  fagot  made 
of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  diyme,  and  a  bay  leaf. 
Let  the  sauce  reduce  to  a  quart,  skim  die  fat 
off",  and  strain  it  tlu'ough  a  taniis  clodi.  To 
make  a  bechamel  sauce,  add  to  a  quart  of 
die  above  a  pint  of  good  cream ;  stir  it  until 
it  is  reduced  to  a  good  diickness;  a  few 
muslirooms  give  a  good  flavor  to  diat  sauce; 
strain  it  through  a  tamis  clodi. 

BEEF.  The  names  of  the  various  pieces, 
according  to  the  method  of  dividing  die  car- 
cass, are  as  follows: — The  hind  quarter  con- 
tains die  Sirloin ;  Rump;  Edge-bone;  But- 
tock, or  Round;  Mouse  Buttock;  Veiny 
Piece;  Thick  Flank;  Thin  Flank;  Leg 
Ran;  Legs;  Fore  Rib;  Five  Ribs.— The 
fore  quarter  contains  the  Middle  Rib  of  four 
rib§;  Chuck  of  three  ribs ;  Shoulder,  or  Leg- 
of-Mutton  Piece,  containing  a  pai't  of  the 
Blade-bone ;  Brisket ;  Clod ;  Neck  End,  or 
Sticking  Piece;  Shin;  Cheek.  Besides 
these  are  the  Tongue  and  Palate.  The  En- 
trails consist  of  die  Heai't;  Sweetbreads; 
Kidneys ;  Skirts ;  and  diree  kinds  of  Tripe, 
the  Double,  die  Roll,  and  die  Red  Tripe. 

Ox  beef  is  considered  the  best.  The  flesh 
should  feel  tender,  be  fine  in  the  grain,  and 
of  a  bright  red  color,  nicely  marbled  or  mix- 
ed widi  fat.  The  fat  should  be  white,  rather 
dian  of  a  yellow  color. 

Heifer  beef  is  excellent  when  finely  fed, 
and  is  most  suitable  for  small  families.  The 
bone  should  be  taken  out  of  a  round  of  beef 
before  it  is  salted,  and  it  must  be  washed, 
skewered,  and  bound  round  firmly  before  be- 
ing boiled.     Salt  beef  should  be  put  on  with 


BEE 


11 


plenty  of  cold  water,  and  when  it  boils  the 
scum  removed.  It  is  then  kept  simmering 
for  some  houi-s.  A  piece  weighing  fifteen 
pounds  will  require  three  hours  and  a  half  to 
boil.  CaiTots  and  turnips  for  garnishing 
should  be  put  on  to  boil  witli  die  beef.  If 
in  the  least  tainted,  a  piece  of  charcoal  may 
be  boiled  with  it. 

When  beef  is  to  be  kept  any  length  of  time, 
it  should  be  carefiilly  wiped  every  day.  In 
warm  weather,  wood  vinegar  is  an  excellent 
preservative :  it  is  put  all  over  the  meat  with 
a  brush.  To  protect  the  meat  from  flies,  it 
may  be  sprinkled  over  wi  th  pepper.  Tainted 
meat  may  be  restored  by  washing  in  cold 
water,  afterwards  in  strong  chamomile  tea, 
after  which  it  may  be  sprinkled  with  salt  and 
used  the  following  day,  first  washing  it 
in  cold  water.  Roughly  pounded  charcoal 
rubbed  all  over  the  meat  also  restores  it  when 
tainted.  In  Scotland  meat  is  frequently  kept 
a  fortnight  smothered  in  oatmeal,  and  care- 
fully wiped  every  day ;  and  if  it  should  be  a 
little  tainted,  it  is  soaked  some  hours  before 
it  is  used,  in  oatmeal  and  water. 

These  dii-ections  equally  apply  to  all  sorts 
of  meat.  The  sirloin  is  the  prime  joint  for 
roasting.  When  to  be  used,  it  should  be 
washed,  tlien  di'ied  with  a  clean  clotli,  and 
the  fat  covered  over  witli  a  piece  of  white  pa- 
per tied  on  with  tliread.  The  spit  should  be 
kept  at  all  times  exceedingly  clean :  it  must 
be  wiped  dry  immediately  after  it  is  drawn 
from  the  meat,  and  washed  and  scoured  every 
time  it  is  used.  Care  should  be  taken  to  bal- 
ance the  roast  properly  upon  die  spit,  but,  if 
not  exactly  right,  it  is  tetter  to  make  it  equal 
by  fastening  on  a  leaden-headed  skewer  than 
to  piei-ce  it  again.  The  fire  should  be  pre- 
pared by  putting  on  plenty  of  coals  at  the 
back.  When  put  down,  it  should  be  about 
ten  inches  from  the  fire,  and  gradually  drawn 
nearer.  It  is  first  basted  with  a  little  butler 
or  fresh  dripping,  and  then  well  basted  witli 
its  own  fat  all  the  time  it  is  roasting.  Ten 
minutes  before  seiTing,  it  should  be  sprinkled 
with  a  little  salt,  then  dredged  with  flour,  and 
basted  till  it  is  fi*otlied.  When  it  is  drawn 
from  the  spit  some  gravy  will  run  out,  to 
which  may  be  added  a  little  boiling  salt-and- 
water  poured  along  the  bone:  the  beef  is  dien 
garnished  with  plenty  of  finely  scraped  horse- 
radish. A  sirloin,  weighing  about  fifteen 
pounds,  should  lie  roasted  for  du"ee  hours  and 
a  half.  A  Uiinner  piece  of  the  same  weight 
requires  only  three  hours.  In  cold  weatlier 
meat  requires  longer  roasting  than  in  warm, 
and  if  newly  killed  than  if  it  has  been  kept. 

BEEF  ALAMODE.  (1)  Take  about 
eleven  pounds  of  the  mouse  buttock,  or  clod 
of  beef,  or  a  blade-bone,  or  the  sticking-piece, 
or  the  like  weight  of  the  breast  of  veal ;  cut 
it  into  pieces  of  du-ee  or  four  ounces  each ;  put 


^    „V  THF. 


three  or  four  ounbte  of  beef  drippings,  and 
mince  a  couple  of  B^^e  onions,  and  put  them 
into  a  large  deep  st'eiKpao ;  aa  eoon  as  it  is 
quite  hot,  flour  the  meat,  ptrt  it  into  the  stew- 
pan,  keep  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon; 
when  it  has  been  on  about  ten  minutee,  dredge 
it  with  flour,  and  keep  doing  so  till  you  have 
stirred  in  as  much  as  you  think  will  thicken 
it ;  then  cover  it  with  boiling  water  (it  will 
take  about  a  gallon),  adding  it  by  degrees, 
and  stirring  it  togedier ;  skim  it  when  it  boils, 
and  dien  put  in  one  di"achm  of  ground  black 
pepper,  two  of  allspice,  and  two  bay  leaves  j 
set  the  pan  by  the  side  of  the  fii'e,  or  at  a  dis- 
tance over  it  and  let  it  stew  veiy  slowly  for 
about  tliree  houi-s ;  when  you  find  the  meat 
sufiiciently  tender,  put  it  into  a  tureen,  and 
it  is  ready  for  table. 

BEEF  ALAMODE.  (2)  Take  the 
bone  out  of  a  small  round  of  fine  ox  lieef,  cut 
some  fat  bacon  in  long  strips,  dip  them  into 
common  and  shallot  vinegar  mixed,  and  roll 
diera  in  the  following  seasoning :  Grated  nut- 
meg, black  and  Jamaica  pepper,  one  or  two 
cloves,  and  some  salt,  parsley,  chives,  lemon* 
thjTiie,  netted  marjoram,  and  savoury,  shred 
quite  small.  Lard  the  beef  very  diickly,  bind 
it  firmly  with  tape,  and  iiib  the  outside  with 
the  seasoning.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with 
the  rind  of  a  lemon,  four  large  onions,  die  red 
part  of  tlu'ee  or  foiur  canots,  and  two  turnips 
cut  into  dice;  add  a  tea-cupfiil  of  strong  ale 
and  one  of  vinegar ;  let  it  stew  for  six  or  eight 
hours,  turning  it  two  or'  diree  times.  Half 
an  hour  before  serving,  take  out  the  beef  and 
vegetables,  skim  off"  tlie  fat,  strain  die  sauce, 
and  thicken  it  with  a  little  floui-and-water 
mixed  smooth,  add  a  tea-cupful  of  Port  wine, 
return  it  all  into  the  pot,  and  let  it  boil. 

BEEF  ALAMODE.  (3)  Take  a  rump 
or  piece  of  beef,  bone  it,  beat  it  well  and  lard 
it  with  fat  bacon,  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  some  rind  of  bacon,  a  calf's  foot,  an 
onion,  carrot,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  bay 
leaf,  Uiyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  some  cloves, 
salt,  and  pepper,  pour  over  die  whole  a  glass 
of  water,  let  it  stew  over  a  slow  fire  for  six 
hours  at  least.  A  clean  cloth  should  be 
placed  over  die  stew  pan  before  the  lid  is 
put  on,  which  must  be  carefiilly  closed. 
When  it  is  done,  sti-ain  the  gravy  dirough  a 
sieve,  clear  ofFdie  fat,  and  serve. 

BEEF  ALADAUBE.  Take  a  round, 
a  rump,  or  a  veiny  piece  of  beef,  lard  it  with 
bacon,  half  roast  it,  or  fiy  it  brown ;  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  or  a  pot  tliat  will  just  hold 
it;  add  some  gravy,  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  a  gill  of 
vinegar,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  pepper, 
cloves,  mace,  and  salt ;  cover  it  down  very 
close,  let  it  but  just  simmer  till  it  is  tender'; 


BEE 


12 


BEE 


lake  two  ox  palates,  two  sweetbi-eads,  truf- 
fles, morels,  artichoke  bottoms,  stew  them  all 
together  in  some  gravy,  and  pour  over  the 
b^f ;  have  ready  some  forced  meat  balls  fried, 
make  some  long,  others  round,  dip  some  sip- 
pets into  batter,  fry  and  cut  them  three  cor- 
ner ways,  and  stick  them  into  the  meat ;  lay 
the  balls  round  the  dbh. 

BEEF  ALABRAISE.  (1)  Bone  a 
rump  of  beef;  lard  it  very  tliickly  with  salt 
pork  seasoned  witii  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  mace, 
and  allspice,  and  season  the  beef  with  pepper 
and  salt;  put  some  slices  of  bacon  into  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  with  some  whole  black  pep- 
per, a  little  allspice,  one  or  two  bay  leaves,  two 
onions,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs.  Put  in  the  beef,  and  lay  over  it 
some  slices  of  bacon,  two  quarts  of  weak 
stock,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine.  Cover 
it  closely,  and  let  it  stew  between  six  and 
seven  hours.  Sauce  for  the  beef  is  made  of 
part  of  the  liquor  it  has  been  stewed  in, 
strained,  and  thickened  with  a  little  flour  and 
butter,  adding  some  green  onions  cut  small, 
and  pickled  mushrooms.  It  is  poured  hot 
over  the  beef. 

BEEF  ALABRAISE.  (2)  After  a 
rump  of  beef  has  hung  for  five  or  six  days, 
bone,  and  lard  it  tliickly,  but  so  as  not  to  ap- 
pear upon  tlie  surface,  with  bits  of  salt  pork 
or  ham  cut  about  half  an  inch  square,  and 
rolled  in  the  following  seasoning  well  mixed: 
— Finely  minced  onion,  parsley,  thyme,  a  lit- 
tle garlic,  pepper,  and  salt.  What  is  left  over 
of  the  seasoning  add  to  a  pint  of  vinegar,  one 
of  Port  wine,  and  a  tea-cupful  of  salad  oil ; 
steep  the  beef  in  this  for  one  night ;  the  fol- 
lowing day  paper  it,  and  roast  it  in  a  cradle 
spit.  Baste  it  well,  and  serve  it  with  a  thick 
brown  gravy.  A  little  lemon-juice  and  sliced 
pickled  cucumbers  may  be  added.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  boiled  carrot  and  scraped  horse- 
radish. 

BEEF  ALANGLAISE.  Take  a  iTimp 
of  beef,  or  any  piece  you  like  better  of  the 
same  size ;  tie  it  up  neatly  with  packthread, 
and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two  or  tliree 
carrots,  a  parsnip,  three  or  four  onions,  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  green  onions,  a  clove  of 
garlic,  a  bay  leaf,  tliyme,  and  basil ;  moisten 
widi  some  stock  or  water,  season,  and  let 
the  beef  stew  gently  till  half  done,  then  put  in 
a  few  small  cabbages,  jjrepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner ;  boil  a  large  cabbage,  and  hav- 
ing squeezed  it  perfectly  diy,  take  off  the 
leaves  one  by  one,  and  put  witliin  each  leaf 
a  little  veal  or  other  forcemeat,  smrounding 
it  with  three  or  four  more  of  die  leaves,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  form  little  cabbages, 
something  larger  than  an  egg ;  tie  these  with 
packtliread,  and  let  them  be  stewed  with  the 


beef.  When  the  whole  is  done,  clean  ai^y 
the  outside  loose  fat,  and  put  your  beef  in  a 
dish,  cut  the  little  cabbages  in  half,  and  place 
them  round  the  dish,  witli  the  cut  side  out- 
ward. Take  a  little  of  the  stew,  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  having  skimmed  off  the 
fat,  add  a  little  cullis  to  thicken  it.  Reduce 
tliis  over  the  fiie  to  the  consistence  of  a  sauce, 
seiTing  it  over  tlie  meat  and  cabbages. 

BEEF  BALLS.  Mince  very  finely  a 
piece  of  tender  beef,  fat  and  lean ;  mince  an 
onion,  with  some  boiled  parsley ;  add  grated 
bread  crumbs,  and  season  A\ith  pepper,  salt, 
grated  nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel ;  mix  all  to- 
getlier,  and  moisten  it  with  an  egg  beaten ; 
roll  it  into  balls ;  flour  and  fry  tliem  in  boil- 
ing fi-esh  dripping.  Ser\'e  them  with  fried 
bread  crumbs,  or  with  a  tliickencd  brown 
gravy. 

BEEF  BOUILLI.  (1)  In  plain  Eng- 
lish, is  understood  to  mean  boiled  beef;  but 
its  culinary  acceptation,  in  the  French  kitch- 
en, is  fresh  beef  dressed  witliout  boiling,  and 
only  very  gently  simmered  by  a  slow  fii'e. 
Gjoks  have  seldom  any  notion,  that  good  soup 
can  be  made  without  destioying  a  great  deal 
of  meat ;  however,  by  a  judicious  regulation 
of  the  fire,  and  a  vigilant  attendance  on  the 
soup-kettle,  tliis  may  be  accomplished.  You 
shall  have  a  tureen  of  such  soup  as  m  ill  satisfy 
the  most  fastidious  palate,  and  the  meat  make 
its  appearance  at  table,  at  the  same  time,  in 
possession  of  a  full  portion  of  nutritious  succu- 
lence. This  re<|uires  nothing  more  than  to 
stew  the  meat  veiy  slowly  (instead  of  keeping 
the  pot  boiling  a  gallop,  as  common  cooks 
too  commonly  do),  and  to  take  it  up  as  soon 
as  it  is  done  enough.  See  "  Soup  and 
bouilli,"  "  Beef  Shin  stewed,"  "  Scotch 
barley  broth."  Meat  cooked  in  tliis  manner 
affords  much  more  nourishment  than  it  does 
dressed  in  the  common  way,  is  easy  of  diges- 
tion in  proportion  as  it  is  tender,  and  an  in- 
vigorating, substantial  diet,  especially  valua- 
ble to  the  poor,  whose  laborious  employments 
require  support. 

BEEF  BOUILLI.  (2)  Take  a  rump 
of  beef,  or  part  of  one ;  bone  and  tie  it  togeth- 
er in  a  neat  form,  and  put  it  into  a  pot,  with 
any  odd  bits  of  butcher's  meat  you  may  hap- 
pen to  have  in  the  house,  either  teef,  \eal,  or 
mutton ;  you  may  add,  also,  the  Ijoiies,  feet, 
and  necks  of  poultiy  or  game,  the  meat  of 
which  has  been  taken  for  other  dishes ;  place 
youi-pot  on  a  moderate  fue,  not  quite  full  of 
water,  and  skim  gently.  When  it  has  boiled 
a  shoit  time,  put  in  some  salt,  turnips,  six 
carrotjs,  and  six  onions,  into  one  of  which  you 
should  stick  three  cfoves;  add  a  bunch  of 
leeks.  Let  die  whole  boil  gently,  till  the  beef 
is  perfectly  done ;  tlien  take  it  out,  and  serve 


BEE 


i^ 


BEE 


it  up  eitlier  with  fi-esh  parsley,  with  a  sauce, 
or  with  onions  or  other  vegetables. 

BEEF  BROSE.  After  any  large  piece 
of  beef  has  been  taken  out  of  tlie  pot  it  was 
boiled  in,  skim  off  the  fat  witli  part  of  tlie 
liquor,  and  boil  it  in  a  saucepan.  Have 
ready  in  a  bowl  oatmeal  that  has  been  toasted 
brown  before  tlie  fire,  pour  in  the  boiling 
liquor  and  stir  it  a  little ;  if  too  thick,  add 
more  liquor,  and  send  it  to  table  quite  hot. 

BEEF  BAKED.  Let  a  buttock  of  beef 
which  has  been  in  salt  about  a  week,  be  well 
washed  and  put  into  an  eaithen  pan,  with  a 
pint  of  water ;  cover  the  pan  tight  witli  two 
or  three  sheets  of  foolscap  paper — let  it  bake 
foul'  or  five  hom-s  in  a  moderately  heated 
oven. 

BEEF  BAKED  WITH  POTATOES. 

Boil  some  potatoes,  peel,  and  pound  them  in 
a  mortar  with  one  or  two  small  onions; 
moisten  diem  with  milk  and  an  egg  beaten 
up;  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Season 
slices  of  beef,  or  mutton  chops,  widi  salt  and 
pepper,  and  more  onion,  if  the  flavor  is  ap- 
proved; nib  the  bottom  of  a  pudding  dish 
with  butter,  and  put  a  layer  of  the  mashed 
potatoes,  which  should  be  as  thick  as  a  bat- 
ter, and  tlien  a  layer  of  meat,  and  so  on  al- 
ternately till  the  dish  is  filled,  ending  widi 
potatoes.     Bake  it  in  an  oven  for  one  hour. 

BEEF  TO  COLLAR.  Cut  off  the  end 
of  a  brisket  of  beef,  and  bone  it ;  sprinkle  it 
widi  salt  and  saltpetre,  and  let  it  lie  a  week ; 
mix  together  some  grated  nutmeg,  Jamaica 
and  black  pepper,  some  chopped  lemon  thyme, 
sweet  marjoram,  and  parsley ;  strew  it  over 
the  meat,  roll  it  up  hard,  sew  it  in  a  cloth, 
put  it  into  a  large  jar  of  water,  tie  it  closely, 
and  bake  it  in  an  oven ;  take  it  out  of  die 
jar  and  press  it  widi  a  heavy  weight.  When 
it  is  quite  cold,  take  off  die  cloth,  and  keep 
it  di-y. 

BEEF  BROTH.     {See  Broth.) 

BEEF,  COLD  RUMP  STEAKS  TO 
WARM.  Lay  them  in  a  stewpan,  with 
one  large  onion  cut  in  quarters,  six  berries 
of  allspice,  the  same  of  black  pepper,  cover 
the  steaks  with  boiling  water,  let  them  stew 
gently  one  hour,  thicken  the  liquor  with  flour 
and  butter  rubbed  together  on  a  plate ;  if  a 
pint  of  gravy,  about  one  ounce  of  flour,  and 
the  like  weight  of  butter,  will  do ;  put  it  into 
die  stewpan,  shake  it  well  over  die  fire  for 
five  minutes,  and  it  is  ready ;  lay  the  stealis 
and  onions  on  a  dish  and  pom-  die  gravy 
Ijhirough  a  sieve  over  them. 


BEEF,  COLD  TENDERLOIN.    (1) 

Cut  oft'  entire  the  inside  of  a  large  sirloin  of 
beef,  brown  it  all  over  in  a  stewpan,  then 
add  a  quart  of  water,  half  a  pint  of  Port  wine, 
a  tea-cupful  of  strong  beer,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  some  pepper,  salt,  and  a  large 
onion  finely  minced ;  cover  the  pan  closefy, 
and  let  it  stew  till  the  beef  be  veiy  tender. 
Garnish  with  pickles. 

BEEF,  COLD  TENDERLOIN.     (2) 

Cut  off"  die  meat,  with  a  little  of  the  fat,  into 
sti'ips  diree  inches  long  and  half  an  inch 
thick ;  season  widi  pepper  and  salt,  dredge 
them  with  flour,  and  fry  diem  brown  in  but- 
ter ;  dien  simmer  them  in  a  rich  brown  gravy ; 
add  of  mushroom  catchup,  onion,  and  shallot 


inegar,   a   table-spoonful   each, 
with  filed  parsley. 


Garnish 


BEEF  CULLIS. 


iSee  Cullis.) 
2 


,      BEEF  FILLET  IN  MADEIRA.    Lard 

a  good  fillet  of  beef,  the  same  as  for  roasting, 
join  die  ends  together,  and  place  it  in  this 
manner  in  a  stewpan,  with  some  onions,  car- 
rots, and  a  bouquet  garni,  some  consomme 
and  Madeira,  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper ; 
let  it  boil  for  a  moment,  and  aflerwards  let 
it  boil  slowly.  Put  fire  upon  the  top  of  your 
stewpan.  When  it  is  done  strain  the  broth 
through  a  silk  sieve,  reduce  it,  and  serve  it 
as  a  sauce  to  your  meat. 

BEEF  FILLET  ROASTED.  This  fil- 
let lies  only  in  die  inside  of  the  sirloin  next 
to  die  chine,  and  is  the  tenderest  part  of  the 
ox ;  spit  diis  on  a  small  spit,  but  do  not  nin 
it  tlirough  die  best  part  of  the  meat :  roast  il 
gently,  and  baste  it  with  butter ;  catch  gravy 
in  a  dish  while  die  beef  is  roasting;  in  the 
meantime  make  a  sauce  for  it  with  sweet 
herbs  and  parsley  shred  fine,  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  an  onion,  and  some  orange-peel  chop- 
ped small ;  put  these  into  sweet  butter,  gravy, 
a  spoonful  or  two  of  strong  broth  and  vine- 
gar, stew  them  all  togedier.  Put  your  beef 
into  diis  sauce,  and  serve  it  hot. 

BEEF  FRICANDEAU.  Take  a  nice 
bit  of  lean  beef,  lard  it  with  bacon,  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  mace,  and  allspice. 
Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  broth, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  bundle  of  parsley,  all 
sorts  of  sweet  herbs,  a  clove  of  garlick,  a 
shallot  or  two,  four  cloves,  pepper  and  sah. 
When  the  meat  is  become  tender,  cover  it 
close;  skim  the  sauce  well,  and  strain  it 
Set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  a  glaze.  Glaze  die  larded  side  with 
this,  and  serve  the  meat  on  sorrel  sauce. 

BEEF  GOBBETS.  Take  about  six 
pounds  of  any  piece  of  beef,  except  the  leg  w 
shin,  cut  it  i.ito  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  hen's 
egg,  put  diera  into  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 


BEE 


14 


BEE 


them  Avith  water,  put  tliem  over  tlie  fire,  and 
when  the  scum  rises,  skim  it  clear  off,  then 
put  in  some  cloves,  mace,  allspice,  and  whole 
pepper,  tied  in  a  muslin,  six  heads  of  celery, 
cut  an  inch  long  and  well  washed,  a  cairot 
or  two  cut  in  slices,  two  turnips  cut  in  dice, 
a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  some  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  crust  of  bread;  stew  it  till  tlie 
meat  is  tender,  and  then  take  out  tlie  spice, 
herbs,  and  bread ;  have  some  crusts  of  French 
roll  crisped  before  the  fii'e,  put  them  in  a  dish, 
and  jjut  the  meat,  &c.  over  them.  You  put 
in  two  ounces  of  Scotch  barley  or  rice  when 
you  put  in  the  herbs. 

BEEF  GRAVY.     {See  Gravy.) 

BEEF  H-BONE.  Is  to  be  managed  in 
exactly  the  same  manner  as  tlie  round,  but 
will  be  sooner  boiled,  as  it  is  not  so  solid. 
An  H-boue  of  201bs.  will  \oe  done  enough  in 
about  four  hours;  of  lOlbs.  in  tliree  hours, 
more  or  less,  as  tlie  weatlier  is  hotter  or 
colder.  Be  sure  tlie  boiler  is  big  enough  to 
allow  it  plenty  of  water-room :  let  it  be  well 
co\'ered  with  water :  set  the  pot  on  one  side 
of  the  fire  to  boil  gently :  if  it  boils  quick  at 
first,  no  art  can  make  it  tender  after.  The 
slower  it  boils,  the  better  it  will  look,  and 
the  tenderer  it  will  be.  The  same  accom- 
panying vegetables  as  in  "Beef  Salt  Round." 
Dress  plenty  of  carrots,  as  cold  carrots  are  a 
general  favorite  witli  cold  beef.  Mem. — 
Epicuies  say,  tliat  tlie  soft,  fat-like  marrow, 
wiiich  lies  on  tlie  back,  is  delicious  when  hot, 
and  the  hard  fat  about  tlie  upper  corner  is 
best  when  cold. 

BEEF  HASHED.  (1)  Take  tluee  or 
four  onions,  chop  them  very  fine,  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  and 
a  little  flour ;  stir  it  over  tlie  fire  till  nearly 
done  and  well  browned ;  then  moisten  them 
with  a  little  stock  and  half  a  glass  of  wine, 
adding  some  salt  and  coarse  pepper ;  let  them 
stew  till  they  are  thoroughly  done,  and  veiy 
little  sauce  remains;  tlien  put  in  the  cold 
beef,  minced  small,  and  let  the  whole  sim- 
mer till  it  has  taken  the  flavor  of  the  onion. 
When  you  serve,  add  a  spoonful  of  mustard 
and  a  little  vinegar. 

BEEF  HASHED.  (2)  Cut  some  of 
the  underdone  part  of  the  beef,  in  slices, 
with  some  of  Uie  fat,  put  it  into  a  small 
stewpan,  witli  some  onion  or  shallot,  (a 
very  little  will  do),  a  little  water,  pepper, 
and  salt:  boil  it  tiU  the  onion  is  quite  soft, 
then  put  some  of  tlie  gravy  of  tlie  meat  to  it, 
aud  the  hash.  Do  not  let  it  boil ;  have  a 
small  hot  dish  with  sippets  of  bread  ready, 
and  put  the  hash  into  it,  but  first  mix  a  large 
spoonful  of  vinegar  with  it;  if  shallot  vinegar 
is  used  there  will  be  no  need  of  the  onion  or 


raw  shallot.  You  may  add  a  spoonftil  of 
wabiut  liquor  or  catchup.  Observe,  that  it 
is  owing  to  boiling  hashes  or  minces,  that 
they  get  hard.  All  sorts  of  stews,  or  meat 
dressed  a  second  time,  should  be  only  sim- 
mered ;  and  this  hist  only  hot  through. 

BEEF  HAM.  Rub  a  little  common  salt- 
over  a  piece  of  beef  of  about  twenty  pounds 
weight ;  take  out  tlie  bone,  and  in  one  or  two 
days,  rub  well  into  tlie  beef  tlie  following  in- 
gredients, finely  pounded  and  well  mixed: 
— two  ounces  of  sal-prunella,  four  oimces  of 
brovra  sugar,  six  ounces  of  bay  salt,  one 
ounce  of  white  pepper,  and  of  cloves  and  nut- 
meg, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each ;  tlien  strew 
over  it  half  a  pound  of  common  salt.  Let  it 
lie  fifteen  days,  tm-ning  it  daily.  It  is  tlien 
hung  up;  or  when  taken  out  of  the  pickle,  it 
may  l)e  boiled,  and  allowed  to  stand  till  cold 
in  tlie  water  in  which  it  was  boiled ;  or  it 
may  be  baked  in  a  deep  dish,  covered  with 
a  coarse  paste. 

BEEF  HEART,  TO  ROAST.  Wash 
it  well,  and  clean  all  die  blood  carefully  from 
the  pipes :  parboil  it  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in 
boiling  water ;  drip  tlie  water  from  it ;  put 
in  a  stuffing  which  has  been  made  of  bread 
ciTunbs,  minced  suet  or  butter,  sweet  maijo- 
ram,  lemon  tliyme,  and  parsley,  season- 
ed with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Put  it 
down  to  roast  while  hot,  baste  it  well  with 
butter,  frotli  it  up,  and  serve  it  widi  melted 
butter  and  vinegar;  or  with  gravy  in  the 
dish,  and  current  jelly  in  a  sauce-tureen. 
To  hash  it,  follow  tlie  directions  given  for 
hare. 

BEEF  HUNG,  BURGESS'S  METH- 
OD OF  BOILING.  Hung  beef  for  grat- 
ing should  be  put  on  in  boiling  water,  and, 
to  preserve  tlie  color,  kept  boiling  as  fast  as 
possible.  Allow  for  six  pounds  of  beef  pne 
hour  and  a  half.  It  will  keep  good  for  a 
length  of  time. 

BEEF,  HUNTING.  Rub  well  into  a 
round  of  beef  weighing  about  forty  pounds, 
three  ounces  of  saltpetre ;  let  it  stand  five  or 
six  hours ;  pound  tliree  ounces  of  allspice, 
one  of  black  pepper,  and  mix  them  with  two 
pounds  of  salt,  and  seven  ounces  of  brown  su- 
gar. Rub  tlie  beef  all  over  with  die  salt  and 
spices,  let  it  remain  fourteen  days,  and  every 
otlier  day  tuin  and  rub  it  witli  tlie  pickle ; 
tlien  wash  oft"  the  spices,  and  put  it  into  a 
deep  pan.  Cut  small  nearly  six  pounds  of 
beef  suet,  put  some  into  the  bottom  of  the 
pan,  but  the  greater  part  upon  die  top  of  the 
beef.  Cover  it  wiUi  a  coarse  paste,  and 
bake  it  eight  hours.  When  cold,  take  off" 
the  crust,  and  pour  off  tlie  gravy.  It  will 
keep  good  for  three  months.     Preserve  the 


BEE 


15 


BEE 


gravy,  as  a  little  of  it  improves  the  flavor  of 
hashes,  soups,  or  any  made  dishes, 

-  BEEF  KIDNEY.  Take  some  kidneys, 
cut  them  into  tiiin  slices,  and  broil  them  witli 
a  piece  of  butter,  some  salt,  pepper,  parsley, 
and  green  onions,  and  a  clove  of  garlick,  the 
whole  should  be  shred  fine ;  when  they  are 
sufficiently  done,  take  them  off  the  fu-e  (they 
should  not  broil  too  long,  or  they  will  become 
tough);  add,  when  you  serve  them,  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar  and  a  little  cullis.  Beef 
kidneys  may  hkewise  be  served,  with  shallot 
sauce,  or  sauce  piguante. 


KIDNEY     SAUCE.       (See 


BEEF 
Sauce.) 


BEEF  MINCED.  (1)  Take  some  cold 
roasted  fillet  of  beef,  cut  out  all  the  fat  and 
suet,  then  chop  tlie  meat  as  fine  as  possiWe, 
and  put  it  into  a  reduced  Spanish  sauce  made 
boiHng  hot;  when  ready  to  serve,  add  a  bit 
of  butter  to  it.  Serve  your  mince  with  soil 
boiled  eggs  round  it,  or  with  pieces  of  toast- 
ed bread. 

BEEF  MINCED.  (2)  Mince  your 
beef  vei7  small ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  little  gravy  and  a  little  of  the  fat  of 
fowl  or  any  other  fat,  moisten  it  with  some 
stock  and  a  little  white  wine ;  season  accord- 
ing to  your  taste,  then  let  it  simmer  over  a 
gentle  fii'e  till  it  is  sufficiently  done. 

BEEF  OLIVES.  Cut  tlie  beef  into  long 
thin  steaks;  prepare  a  forcemeat  made  of 
bread-crumbs,  minced  beef  suet,  chopped 
parsley,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg, 
pepper,  and  salt;  bind  it  with  the  yolks  of 
eggs  beaten ;  put  a  layer  of  it  over  each  steak ; 
roll  and  tie  them  with  thread.  Fry  them 
lightly  in  beef  dripping ;  put  tliem  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  some  good  brown  gi"avy,  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  and  a  little  Cayenne ;  thicken  it 
with  a  little  flour  and  butter ;  cover  the  pan 
closely,  and  let  them  stew  gently  an  hour. 
Before  serving,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room catchup ;  garnish  with  cut  pickles. 

BEEF  AND  OYSTER  SAUSAGES. 

Scald  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  oysters  in 
tlieir  own  liquor ;  take  them  out  and  chop  them 
finely ;  mince  one  pound  of  beef  and  mutton, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet; 
add  the  oysters,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
mace,  and  two  cloves  pounded ;  beat  up  two 
eggs,  and  mix  tliem  well  with  the  otlier  ingre- 
dients, and  pack  it  closely  into  a  jar.  When 
to  be  used,  roll  it  into  the  forai  of  smaU  sau- 
sages ;  dip  them  into  tlie  yolk  of  an  egg  beat- 
en up;  strew  grated  bread  crumbs  over  them, 
or  dust  with  flour,  and  (vy  them  in  fresh 
dripping.     Serve  them  upon  fried  bread  hot. 


BEEF  PRESSED.  Salt  a  piece  of  bris- 
ket (thin  part  of  the  flank)  or  the  tops  of  the 
ribs,  with  salt  and  saltpetre,  five  days,  then 
boil  it  gently  till  exU'emely  tender;  put  it 
under  a  great  weight,  or  in  a  cheese  press, 
till  perfectly  cold.  It  eats  excellently  cold, 
and  for  sandwiches. 

BEEF  POTTED.  Take  three  pounds 
of  lean  beef,  salt  it  two  or  three  days  with 
half  a  pound  of  common  salt,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  saltpetre ;  divide  it  into  pieces  of  a 
pound  each,  and  put  it  into  an  eeirthen  pan 
just  sufficient  to  contain  it ;  pour  in  half  a 
pint  of  water ;  cover  it  close  with  paste,  and 
set  it  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  four  hoiu's :  when 
taken  from  the  oven  pour  the  gravy  fi-om  it 
into  a  basin,  shred  the  meat  fine,  moisten  it 
with  tlie  gravy  poured  from  the  meat,  and 
pound  it  tlioroughly  in  a  marble  mortar  with 
fi-esh  butter,  till  it  becomes  a  fine  paste,  sea- 
son it  with  black  pepper  and  allspice,  or 
cloves  pounded,  or  grated  nutmeg;  put  it  in 
pots,  press  it  down  as  close  as  possible,  put  » 
a  weight  on  it,  and  let  it  stand  all  night ;  / 
next  day,  when  it  is  quite  cold,  cover  it  a 
quaiter  of  an  inch  thick  with  clarified  butter, 
and  tie  it  over  with  paper. 

BEEF  SALT  ROUND.  As  this  is 
too  large  for  a  moderate  family,  we  shall 
write  directions  for  the  di-essing  half  a  round. 
Get  the  tongue  side.  Skewer  it  up  tight  and 
round,  and  tie  a  fillet  of  broad  tape  round  it, 
to  keep  the  skewers  in  their  places.  Put  it 
into  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  carefully 
catch  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  rises :  let  it  boil 
till  all  the  scum  is  removed,  and  dien  put  the 
boiler  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  to  keep  sim- 
mering slowly  till  it  is  done.  Half  a  round 
of  151bs.  will  take  about  three  hours:  if  it 
weighs  more,  give  it  more  time.  When  you 
take  it  up,  if  any  stray  scum,  &c.  sticks  to 
it  that  has  escaped  the  vigilance  of  your  skim- 
mer, wash  it  off  with  a  paste-brush :  garnish 
the  dishes  with  carrots  and  tiuTiips.  Send 
up  carrots,  turnips,  and  parsnips,  or  greens 
&c.  on  separate  dishes.  Peas  pudding,  and 
MY  PUDDING,  are  all  very  proper  accom- 
paniments. N.  B.— The  outside  slices, 
which  are  generally  too  much  salted  and  too 
much  lx)iled,  will  make  a  very  good  relish  aa 
potted  beef.  For  using  up  the  remains  of  a 
joint  of  boiled  beef,  see  also  Bubble  and 
Squeak. 

BEEF  RAGOUT.  Take  a  rump  of  beef, 
cut  the  meat  fi-om  the  bone,  flour  and  fry  it, 
pour  over  it  a  little  lx)iling  water,  about  a 
pint  of  small  beer ;  add  a  carrot  or  two,  an 
onion  stuck  widi  cloves,  some  whole  pepper, 
salt,  a  piece  of  lemon-peel,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs;  let  it  stew  an  hour,  then  add  some 
good  gravy ;  when  die  meat  is  tender  take  it 


BEE 


16 


BEE 


out,  strain  the  sauce,  tliicken  it  with  a  little 
flour;  add  a  little  celery  ready  boiled,  a  little 
catchup,  put  in  the  meat,  just  simmer  it  up.  Or 
the  celery  may  be  omitted,  and  tlie  ragout  en- 
riched by  adding  mushrooms  fresh  or  pickled, 
artichoke-bottoms  boiled  and  quartered,  and 
hard  yolks  of  eggs.  A  piece  of  flank,  or 
any  piece  that  can  be  cut  free  fi-om  bone, 
will  do  instead  of  the  runii>. 

•BEEF  RISSOLES.  Ciiop  finely  a 
pound  of  lean  tender  beef,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  Ijcef  suet ;  pound  thein  in  a  maible 
mortar ;  mix  with  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
grated  bread,  a  little  onion,  and  a  head  of 
giiriick  liruised ;  season  with  salt  and  peppei-; 
bind  it  \vith  three  eggs  well  beaten  ;  miike  it 
up  intq  small  cakes,  fry  them  of  a  light  brown, 
then  stew  them  in  gravy  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes. 

BEEF  RIBS  BONED  AND  ROLLED. 

When  you  have  kept  two  or  tluee  ribs  of 
beef  till  quite  tender,  take  out  the  bones,  and 
skewer  it  as  round  as  possible  (like  a  fillet 
of  veal):  before  they  roll  it,  some  cooks  egg 
it,  and  sprinkle  it  with  veal  stuffing.  As  the 
meat  is  more  in  a  solid  mass,  it  will  require 
more  time  ai  the  fire ;  a  piece  of  tenor  twelve 
pounasweignt  will  not  be  well  and  thoroughly 
roasted  in  less  than  four  and  a  half  hours. 
For  the  first  half  hour,  it  should  not  be  less 
than  twelve  inches  from  the  fire,  tliat  it  may 
get  gradually  warm  to  tlie  centre:  the  last 
half  horn*  before  it  will  be  finished,  sprinkle 
a  little  salt  over  it;  and  if  you  wish  to  fiotli 
it,  flour  it,  &c. 

BEEF  RUMP  BAKED.  Take  a  rump 
of  beef,  what  size  you  please,  bone  and  lard 
it,  season  it  with  salt  and  fine  spices  put  it 
into  a  stevvpan  just  large  enough  to  hold  it, 
together  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  some 
green  onions,  mushrooms,  and  shallots ;  some 
lean  bacon  is  an  improvement.  Close  tlie 
edges  of  the  pan  witli  a  strong  paste  ;  let  it 
stew  in  an  oven  for  five  or  six  houi-s  according 
to  the  size  of  your  meat,  then  serve  it  witli 
its  own  sauce  strained.  You  may  dress  a  sir- 
loin in  tlie  same  way. 

BEEF  RUMP  TO  STEW.  (1)  Bind 
tlie  beef  tightly,  stick  in  four  cloves,  and  put 
it  in  a  saucepan,  with  three  quarts  of  water, 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  black  pepper  half 
beaten,  some  salt,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
and  tluee  anchovies;  turn  it  often,  and  when 
half  done  take  it  out,  pour  off  the  liquor ;  put 
in  tlie  l)eef  again,  with  a  pint  of  Port  wine 
and  lialf  a  pint  of  table  lx;er  made  scalding 
liot,  and  some  of  the  liquor  strained  ;  stew  it 
till  tender,  clear  off  the  fat,  and  if  the  sauce 
is  not  stiong  enough,  add  well-seasoned  beef 
gravy ;  thicken  it  with  flour  rubbed  down  in 


a  little  cold  water.  Dish  the  beef,  and  pour 
the  gravy  round  it. 

BEEF  RUMP  TO  STEW.     (2)    Tie 

up  the  beef,  and  put  it  on  to  stew  witli  nearly 
as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  it;  add  three 
pounds  of  fat  bacon  cut  into  slices,  ahandfiil 
of  thyme,  eight  onions,  four  small  carrots, 
two  turnips,  two  or  thi'ee  bay  leaves,  some 
black  ]:epper,  a  little  allspice,  mace,  and 
three  cloves,  a  pint  of  Port  wine  and  one  of 
Sherry.  Let  it  stew  gently  l)etween  seven 
and  eight  hours.  Take  out  the  beef,  strain 
the  liquor,  and  skim  off  all  the  fat ;  thicken 
it  with  a  little  flour  rubbed  down  in  cold 
water,  boil  it  up,  and  pour  it  over  tlie  beef. 
Have  ready  carrots  and  turnips,  cut  accord- 
ing to  fancy,  and  lx)iled  tender  in  weak  gra- 
vy, and  put  tliera  round  the  beef  before  sei-v- 

*BEEF  RUMP-STEAKS  STEWED. 

The  steaks  must  be  a  little  tliicker  than  for 
broiling:  let  diem  be  all  the  same  thickness, 
or  some  will  be  done  too  little,  and  otliers  too 
much.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  two  onions ;  when  the  butter  is 
melted,  lay  in  the  riunp-steaks,  let  them  stand 
over  a  slow  fire  for  five  minutes,  then  turn 
them  and  ici  ilie  oilier  side  of  them  fry  for 
five  minutes  longer.  Have  ready  boiled  a 
pint  of  button  onions;  they  will  take  from 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour ;  put  tlie  liquor  they 
were  boiled  in  to  the  steaks ;  if  there  is  not 
enough  of  it  to  cover  them,  add  broth  or  boil- 
ing water,  to  make  up  enough  for  that  purpose, 
witii  a  dozen  corns  of  black  pepper,  and  a 
little  salt,  and  let  tliem  simmer  very  gently 
for  about  an  hour  and  a  half ,  and  tlien  strain 
off  as  much  of  the  liquor  (about  a  pint  and 
a  half)  as  you  tliink  will  make  the  sauce. 
Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan; 
when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as  much  flom*  as 
will  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste;  some  add 
thereto  a  table-spoonful  of  claret,  or  Port 
wine,  tlie  same  of  mushroom  catchup  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt  and  a  quaiter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  black  pepper:  add  the 
liquor  by  degrees ;  let  it  boil  up  for  fifteen 
minutes;  skim  it,  and  strain  it;  serve  up  the 
steaks  widi  tlie  onions  round  the  dish,and  pour 
tlie  gravy  over.  Veal  cutlets  or  mutton  chops 
may  be  done  the  same  way,  or  as  veal  olives. 

BEEF  RUMP-STEAK  BROILED 
WITH  ONION  GRAVY.  Peel  and  slice 
two  large  onions,  put  tliem  into  a  quart  stew- 
pan,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water ;  cover 
tlie  stewpan  close,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire 
till  the  water  has  l)oiled  away,  and  the  onions 
have  got  a  little  browned ;  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  good  broth,  and  boil  the  onions  till 
they  are  tender ;  strain  the  broth  fi-om  them, 
and  chop  tliem  very  fine,  and  season  it  with 


BEEF 


17 


BEEF 


mushroom  catchup,  peppei',  and  salt:  put  the 
onion  into  it,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  five 
minutes ;  pour  it  into  the  dish,  and  lay  over  it 
a  broiled  rump  steak.  If  instead  of  broth 
you  use  good  beef  gravy,  it  will  be  super- 
lative. 

BEEF  SAUSAGES.  Take  two  beef 
steaks  about  tlie  size  of  two  hands,  and  the 
thickness  of  a  finger ;  beat  them  well  to  make 
tliein  flat,  and  pare  the  edges  of  them ;  then 
mince  the  parings  with  beef  suet,  parsley, 
green  onions,  mushrooms,  two  shallots,  and 
some  basil  leaver,  the  whole  slu-ed  fine,  and 
mixed  into  a  forcemeat  widi  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs;  spread  this  forcemeat  on  the  slices  of 
beef,  and  roll  them  up  in  the  form  of  sausages ; 
tie  them  up  with  packtluead,  and  stew  them 
with  a  little  stock,  a  glass  of  wine,  some  salt, 
pepper,  an  onion  stuck  with  two  or  three 
cloves,  a  carrot,  and  a  parsnip ;  when  they 
are  done,  strain  the  liquor;  and,  having 
skimmed  off  the  fat,  reduce  it  over  tlie  fire 
to  the  consistence  of  a  sauce.  Take  care 
that  die  sauce  is  not  too  higly  flavored,  and 
serve  it  over  your  sausages ;  or  they  may  be 
served  with  any  i"^out  of  vegetables  you 
please.  To  serve  the  sausages  cold,  to  make 
a  dish  for  the  second  course,  i educe  the  sauce 
by  letting  it  boil  witli  the  sausages  till  almost 
all  the  fat  is  consumed ;  then  let  diem  stand 
to  cool  wiUi  what  remains  of  the  sauce  ad- 
hering to  diem,  and  sene  upon  a  napkin. 

BEEF,  SHORT  OR  SPICED.     (To 

be  eaten  cold.)  Hang  up  ten  or  twelve 
pounds  of  die  middle  part  of  a  brisket  of 
beef  for  three  or  four  days,  Uien  rub  well  into 
it  three  ounces  of  finely  powdered  saltpetre, 
and,  if  spice  is  npproved  of,  one  ounce  of 
allspice,  and  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper; 
let  it  stand  all  night,  then  salt  it  with  tliree 
pounds  of  well-pounded  bay  salt,  and  half  a 
pound  of  treacle,  in  which  let  it  remain  ten 
days,  rubbing  it  daily.  When  it  is  to  be 
boiled,  sew  it  closely  in  a  cloth,  let  the  water 
only  simmer,  upon  no  account  allowing  it  to 
boil,  for  nine  hours  over  a  slow  fire,  or  upon  a 
stove.  When  taken  out  of  the  water,  place 
two  sticks  across  the  pot,  and  let  the  beef  stand 
over  the  steam  for  half  an  hour,  turning  it 
from  side  to  side,  then  press  it  with  a  heavy 
weight.  It  must  not  be  taken  out  of  die 
cloth  till  perfectly  cold. 

BEEF  SOUP.     (See  Soup.) 

BEEF,  SPRING  GARDEN.     Cut  a 

piece  of  lean  beef  into  thin  slices  like  Scotch 
collops,  lard  it  thick  with  bacon,  and  put  it 
into  a  pan  with  salt,  f)epper,  mace,  two  or 
three  bay  leaves,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ; 
bake  it ;  dien  clear  out  all  the  gravy,  and  fill 
it  up  with  clarified  butter. 
2* 


BEEF  TO  SALT  FOR  IMMEDIATE 

USE.  Salt  a  round  of  beef  moderately  up- 
on the  tops  and  sides,  put  it  upon  sticks,  or 
the  tongs  of  a  cheese-tub,  over  a  tub  of  cold 
water,  and  the  salt  will  be  drawn  dirough  it, 
so  that  it  will  be  fit  for  boiling  next  day. 

ANOTHER    METHOD    IS— To    rub 

for  half  an  hour  into  any  piece  of  beef  a  good 
quantity  of  salt,  and  let  it  lie  for  three  or 
four  days  without  touching  it,  when  it  may 
be  used. 

BEEF  SIRLOIN.  The  noble  sirloin  of 
about  fifteen  fwunds  (if  much  thicker,  the  out- 
side will  be  done  too  much  before  the  iaside 
is  enough),  will  require  to  be  before  the  fire 
about  diree  and  a  half  or  four  hoiurs ;  take 
care  to  spit  it  evenly,  that  it  may  not  be 
heavier  on  one  side  than  the  other ;  put  a  little 
clean  dripping  into  the  diippingpan,  (tie  a 
sheet  of  paper  over  it  to  preserve  t!ie  fat), 
baste  it  well  as  soon  as  it  is  put  down,  and 
every  (juarter  of  an  hour  all  the  time  it  is 
roasting,  till  the  last  half  hour ;  then  take 
off  the  paper,  and  make  some  gravy  for  it ; 
stir  the  fire  and  make  it  clear:  to  brown  and 
froth  it,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it,  baste  it 
with  butter,  and  dredge  it  with  flour ;  let  it 
go  a  few  minutes  longer,  till  die  frodi  rises, 
take  it  up,  put  it  on  die  dish,  &c.  Garnish  it 
widi  hillocks  of  horse-radish,  so-aped  as  fine 
as  possible  with  a  very  sharp  knife.  A  York- 
shire pudding  is  an  excellent  accompaniment. 

BEEF  SHIN  STEWED.  Desire  the 
butcher  to  saw  the  bone  into  three  or  four 
pieces,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 
it  with  cold  water;  when  it  simmers,  skim 
it  clean ;  dien  put  in  a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs, 
a  large  onion,  a  head  of  celery,  a  dozen  ber- 
ries of  black  pepper,  and  the  same  of  allspice: 
stew  very  gently  over  a  slow  fire  till  the  meat 
is  tender;  this  will  take  from  about  three 
hours  and  a  half,  to  four  and  a  half.  Take  diree 
carrots,  peel  and  cut  them  into  small  squares ; 
peel  and  cut  ready  in  small  squares  a  couple 
of  turnips,  with  a  couple  of  dozen  of  small 
young  round  silver  button  onions  ;  boil  them, 
till  tender;  the  turnips  and  onions  will  be 
enough  in  about  fifteen  minutes ;  the  carrots 
will  require  alxjut  twice  as  long:  drain  them 
diy.  When  die  beef  is  quite  tender,  take  it 
out  carefiilly  with  a  slice,  and  put  it  on  a  dish 
while  you  thicken  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the  gra- 
vy: to  do  this,  mix  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  with  a  tea-cupful  of  die  beef  liquor ;  stir 
this  thoroughly  togedier  till  it  boils,  skim  off 
the  fat,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  your 
vegetables  in  to  warm;  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  wine-glass  of  mushroom  catchup, 
or  Port  wine,  or  both,  and  pour  't  over  the 
beef.  Dr.  Kitchener  commends  this  dish  as 
one  of  die  very  best  that  can  be  carried  to 


BEEF 


18 


BEER 


table,  and  advises  it  be  called  Rap^out  Beef. 
A  LKG  OF  Mutton  is  excellent  dre-sed 
the  same  way. 

BEEF    STEAKS,    BROILED.      Cut 

the  steaks  off  a  rump  or  the  ribs  of  a  fore 
quarter ;  beat  them  well  with  a  rolling-j)in. 
Have  the  gridiron  perfectly  clean  and  heated 
over  a  clear  quick  fire  ;  lay  on  the  steaks, 
and,  with  meat  tongs,  keep  turning  them  con- 
stantly, till  they  are  done  enough  ;  throw  a 
little  salt  OAer  them  a  little  before  taking  them 
off  the  fire.  Serve  them  as  hot  as  possible, 
plain,  or  with  a  made  gravy  and  sliced  on- 
ion, or  rub  a  bit  of  butter  upon  the  steaks 
the  moment  of  sening.  Mutton  chops  are 
broiled  in  tlie  same  manner. 

BEEF  STEAKS,  STEWED.  Fry  the 
steaks  in  a  little  butter;  take  them  out  of  the 
pan,  and  fry  in  it  a  minced  onion  ;  return  the 
steaks,  witli  a  little  boiling  water  or  gravy, 
some  pepper,  salt,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar ;  stew  them  gently  for  two  or  three  hours ; 
thicken  tlie  sauce  with  butter  rolled  in  flour; 
and  serve  with  or  witiiout  pickles. 

BEEF  STEAK  PIE.     {See  Pie.) 

BEEF  STEAK  PUDDING.  {See 
Pudding.) 

BEEF  STEAKS,  DRESSED.  Cut 
thin  steaks,  longer  tlian  they  are  bi'oad,  off  a 
rump ;  beat  them  with  a  rolling-pin ;  season 
them  with  pepper,  salt,  and  finely  minced 
onion ;  roll  and  tie  tliem  widi  a  thread ;  cut 
tliem  even  at  tlie  ends ;  firy  them  brown  with 
a  little  Ixitter ;  make  a  sauce  with  a  piece  of 
butter  browned  with  flour,  some  gravy  or 
water,  a  minced  onion,  pepper,  and  salt. 
Boil  it,  and  add  the  steaks,  and  let  them  stew 
an  hour.  Before  serving,  add  some  mush- 
room catchup,  and  take  off  the  tlireads. 

BEEF,  SCARLET.  Mix  a  little  mace, 
cloves,  allspice,  black  pepper,  and  salt- 
peti'e  together,  rub  it  well  into  two  pounds  of 
tender  lean  beef;  let  it  lie  six  days,  turning 
it  daily,  and  rubbing  it  with  the  pickle ;  then 
roll  and  tie  it  firmly  with  tape;  put  it  and 
die  pickle  info  a  small  jar,  with  a  slice  or 
two  of  beef  suet  under  and  over  it ;  tie  it  close- 
ly, and  bake  it  an  hour.  It  is  eaten  cold, 
cut  in  thin  slices,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 
If  long  kept,  the  color  fades. 

BEEF  STEWED.  (1)  Stew  in  five 
quarts  of  water  the  middle  part  of  a  brisket 
of  beef  weighing  ten  pounds,  add  two  onions 
stuck  widi  two  cloves,  one  head  of  celery, 
one  large  carrot,  two  turnips  cut  small,  a 
liandful  of  sorrel  leaves,  half  an  ounce  of 
black  peppc,  and  some  salt.     Stew  it  gent- 


ly for  six  hours.  Make  a  strong  gravy  with 
ctirrots  and  turnips,  the  tnrnips  to  be  scraped 
and  filed  of  a  brown  color  in  butter  ;  add 
pepper,  salt,  a  little  Cayenne ;  tliicken  it  widi 
flour  and  butter,  and  pour  it  over  the  Ijeef, 
with  the  carrots  and  turnips. 

BEEF  STEWED.  (2)  Take  ten 
pounds  of  a  brisket  of  beef,  cut  the  short  ribs, 
and  put  it  into  a  well-buttered  saucepan,  with 
two  large  onions,  stuck  widi  three  or  four 
cloves,  two  or  three  caiTots  cut  into  quarters, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  small  lemon  sliced, 
and  five  quarts  of  water ;  let  it  stew  seven 
hours.  Strain  and  clarify  die  gravy — thicken 
it  with  butter  and  flour.  Chop  the  carrots 
with  some  capers,  mushroom  catchup,  and 
Cayenne.  Any  other  pickle  that  is  liked  may 
be  added. 

BEEF  STOCK.  {See  Stock.) 

BEEF,  MUTTON,  OR  VEAL  TEA. 

Cut  a  pound  of  lean  gra%y  meat  into  thin 
slices ;  put  it  into  a  quart  and  half  a  pint  of 
cold  water ;  set  it  over  a  verj'  gentle  fire, 
where  it  will  become  gradually  warm ;  when 
the  scum  rises,  let  it  continue  simmering 
gently  for  about  an  hour ;  then  strain  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  or  a  napkin ;  let  it  stand 
ten  minutes  to  settle,  and  tlien  pour  off  die 
clear  tea.  N.  B. — An  onion,  and  a  few 
grains  of  black  pepper,  are  sometimes  added. 
If  the  meat  is  boiled  till  it  is  thoroughly 
tender,  you  may  mince  it  and  pound  it  and 
mal<^e  potted  beef. 

BEEF   TRIPE    FRICASSEE.      Let 

your  tripe  be  very  white,  cut  it  into  slips, 
put  it  into  some  boiled  gravy,  with  a  little 
cream  and  a  bit  of  butter  mixed  with  flour ; 
stir  it  till  the  Ijutter  is  melted;  add  a  little 
white  wine,  lemon-peel  grated,  chopped 
parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  pickled  mush- 
rooms, or  lemon-juice ;  shake  all  togedier; 
stew  it  a  little. 

BEER,  SPRUCE.  When  ten  gallons 
of  water,  six  pounds  of  molasses,  and  three 
ounces  of  bniised  ginger  have  boiled  togeth- 
er for  half  an  hour,  two  pounds  of  the  outer 
sprigs  of  the  spiuce  fir  are  to  be  added,  and 
boiled  for  five  minutes;  the  whole  is  then  to 
be  strained  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  when 
milk-warm,  put  into  die  cask,  and  a  tea- 
cupfid  of  good  yeast  stiired  well  into  it. 
When  it  has  fermented  a  day  or  two,  it  is  to 
lie  bunged  up,  and  the  following  day  bot- 
tled. It  will  be  fit  for  use  in  a  week.  The 
ginger  is  sometimes  omitted,  and  instead 
of  the  spruce  fir,  three  ounces  of  the  essence 
may  be  used,  which  is  to  be  well  whisked, 
together  with  the  molasses,  and  a  galli)n  or 
two  of  warm  water;  then  put  into  tlie  cask^ 


BEER  19 

which  is  to  be  filled  up  with  water,  and  the 

jeast  added. 


BIS 


BEER,  SPRUCE.  (2)  The  propor- 
tions are  ten  gallons  of  water,  three  quarts 
of  mohirises,  a  tea-cupful  of  ginger,  the  same 
of  alUpic.e,  three  ounces  of  hops,  tliree 
ounces  and  a  half  of  the  essence  of  spruce, 
and  half  a  pint  of  good  yeast.  Tlie  hops, 
ginger,  and  allspice,  must  be  boiled  togetli- 
er  till  the  hops  fall  to  the  bottom ;  the  molas- 
ses and  spruce  are  then  to  be  dissolved  in  a 
bucket-full  of  the  liquor,  the  whole  strain- 
ed into  a  cask,  and  tlie  yeast  well  stu-red  in ; 
when  die  fermentation  ceases,  tlie  cask  is 
to  be  bunged  up. 

BEER,  BALM.  Eleven  gallons  of 
water  and  ten  pounds  of  brown  sugar  are 
to  be  clarified  with  the  whites  of  twelve 
eggs,  carefully  skimmed  and  boiled  till 
nearly  reduced  to  ten  gallons ;  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  the  yellow  flower  of  lemon 
balm  being  put  into  a  cask,  the  liquor, 
when  milk-warm,  is  to  be  poured  over  it, 
and  four  or  five  table-spoonfuls  of  thick 
yeast  added.  The  cask  must  be  filled  u[) 
morning  and  evening  with  what  works  over 
it,  and  bunged  up  when  the  fermentation 
ceases.  In  a  month  the  beer  may  be  Ixittled, 
and  in  two  or  three  months  it  will  be  fit  for 
drinking.  Half  the  quantity  of  the  flower 
of  lemon  balm  will  probably  be  ibund  to 
communicate  a  flavor  sufficiently  strong,  if 
added  when  the  fermentation  is  nearly  over. 

BEER,  GINGER.  For  a  ten-gallon 
cask,  eleven  gallons  of  water,  fourteen 
pounds  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  eighteen  lem- 
ons, and  one  pound  of  ginger  are  allowed ; 
die  sugar  and  water  are  boiled  witli  the 
whites  of  eight  eggs,  and  well  skimmed ; 
just  before  coming  to  the  boiling  point,  the 
ginger,  which  must  be  bruised,  is  dien  ad- 
ded, and  boiled  for  twenty  minutes;  when 
cold,  tlie  clear  part  is  put  into  the  cask,  to- 
gether widi  die  lemon-juice  anj  two  sjjoon- 
fuls  of  yeiist ;  when  it  has  fermented  for 
diree  or  four  days,  it  is  fined,  bunged  up, 
and  in  a  fortnight  bottled.  It  may  be  made 
w.Jiout  the  fruit. 

BEER,  GINGER,  QUICKLY  MADE. 

A  gallon  of  boiling  water  is  poured  over 
three-(iuarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  one 
ounce  and  a  quarter  of  ginger,  and  the  peel 
of  one  lemon ;  when  milk-warm,  tlie  juice 
of  the  lemon  and  a  spoonful  of  yeast  are  ad- 
ded. It  should  be  made  in  the  evening,  and 
bottled  next  morning,  in  half-pint  stone  bot- 
tles, and  die  cork  tied  down  widi  twine. 

BEER  TO  BOTTLE.  When  the 
briskness  and  liveliness  of  malt  liquors  m 


the  cask  fail,  and  they  become  dead  and 
vapid,  which  they  generally  do  soon  after 
they  are  tilted;  let  them  be  bottled.  Be 
careful  to  use  clean  and  dried  bottles ;  leave 
them  unstopped  for  twelve  hours,  and  then 
cork  them  as  closely  as  possible  widi  good 
and  sound  new  corks ;  put  a  bit  of  lump  su- 
gar as  big  as  a  nutmeg  into  each  bottle: 
the  beer  will  be  ripe,  t.  e.  fine  and  spark- 
ling, in  about  four  or  five  weeks:  if  the 
weather  is  cold,  to  put  it  up  the  day  before 
it  is  drunk,  place  it  in  a  room  where  diere 
is  a  fire.  Remember  there  is  a  sediment, 
&c.  at  the  bottom  of  the  bottles,  which  you 
must  carefully  avoid  disturbing ;  so  pom*  it 
off  at  once,  leaving  a  wine-glassful  at  the 
bottom. 

*^*  If  beer  becomes  hard  or  stale,  a  few 
grains  of  carbonate  of  potash  added  to  it 
at  die  time  it  is  drunk  will  correct  it,  and 
make  draught  beer  as  brisk  as  bottled  ale. 

BEET  ROOT,  May  be  eidier  baked 
or  boiled ;  it  will  take  from  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  thi-ee  hours,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  root,  to  cook  properly. 

BEET  ROOT  PICKLED.  Boil  die 
roots  tender,  [leel,  and  cut  them  in  what 
shape  you  please .  Put  them  into  a  jar,  and 
pour  over  them  a  hot  pickle  of  vinegar,  pep- 
per, ginger,  and  sliced  horse-radish.  You 
may  add  capsicums  and  Cayenne. 

BENTON  SAUCE.  {See  Sauce.) 

BENTON  CAKES.  (See  Cakea.) 

BIRDS  POTTED,  how  to  pre- 
serve WHEN  THEY  BEGIN  TO  GROW 
BAD.  When  birds  have  come  a  great  way 
they  often  smell  so  l)ad  U.at  they  can  scarce- 
ly be  borne  from  die  rankness  of  the  butter, 
by  managing  them  in  the  following  manner 
diey  may  be  made  as  good  as  ever.  Set  a 
large  saucepan  of  clean  water  on  the  fire ; 
when  it  boils  take  oft'  the  butter  at  the  top, 
then  take  the  fowls  out  one  by  one,  throw 
them  into  that  saucepan  of  water  half  a 
minute,  whip  it  out,  and  dry  it  in  a  cloth 
inside  and  out;  continue  till  they  are  all 
done,  scald  the  pot  clean;  when  tlie  birds 
are  quite  cold,  season  diem  with  mace, 
p^epper  and  salt,  according  to  taste,  put 
them  down  close  in  a  pot,  and  pour  clari- 
fied butter  over  diem. 

BISCUITS.  (1)  Weigh  eight  eggs,  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar,  and  the  weight  of  four 
in  flour ;  beat  up  the  yolks  of  five,  and  put 
them  in  an  earthen  vessel  with  some  rasped 
lemon-peel  and  tlie  sugar,  l)eat  them  togeth- 
er for  a  long  time,  dien  add  the  whites  of 
eleven  eggs  also  well  beaten,  then  mix  in  the 


BIS 


20 


BIS 


flour  by  degrees,  pour  this  into  paper  cases 
of  whatever  form  and  size  you  please ;  strew 
powder  sugar  bver  them,  and  bake  in  a  cool 
oven. 

BISCUITS.  (2)  Make  a  pound  of  flour, 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  some  milk  into  a 
very  stiff  paste ;  beat  it  well,  knead  till  quite 
smooth,  roll  very  thin  and  cut  into  biscuits, 
prick  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  till  dry  and 
crisp. 

BISCUITS,  ALMOND.  (1)  Blanch 
and  pound  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  al- 
monds, sprinkling  them  occasionally  with  fine 
sugar;  then  beat  them  up  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  with  an  ounce  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  and  four  ounces  of  fine  sugar,  adding 
afterwards  tlie  whites  of  four  eggs  whipped  to 
a  froth :  have  ready  some  paper  moulds  made 
like  boxes,  about  the  length  of  two  fingers 
square ;  butter  them  within,  and  put  in  the 
biscuits,  throwing  over  them  equal  quantities 
of  flour  and  powdered  sugar :  bake  in  a  cool 
oven,  and  when  the  biscuits  are  done  of  a 
good  color,  take  them  out  of  the  papers. 
Bitter  almond  biscuits  are  made  in  the  same 
manner,  with  this  difference,  that  to  two 
ounces  of  bitter  almonds  must  be  added  one 
ounce  of  sweet  almonds. 

BISCUITS,  ALMOND.  (2)  Take 
eight  ounces  of  sweet,  and  as  many  bitter  al- 
monds, fifteen  whites,  and  eight  yolks  of  eggs, 
two  ounces  of  flour,  and  two  pounds  of  powder 
sugar,  pour  boiling  water  on  your  almonds, 
and  almost  immediately  after  turn  that  away 
and  pour  cold  water  on  them ;  rub  off  the 
skins  one  by  one  witii  a  napkin,  then  pound 
tliem  to  a  paste  inamortar,  moistening  them 
with  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Beat  the  fif- 
teen whites  to  a  snow,  and  the  eight  yolks 
with  half  the  quantity  of  the  sugar,  and  then 
mix  them  with  tlie  almond  |)aste;  put  the 
remainder  of  the  sugar  into  a  basin ;  sift  some 
flour  over  it;  stir  the  mixture  till  all  the  in- 
gredients are  thoroughly  incorporated,  and 
pour  it  into  small  paper  cases,  glaze  them 
with  the  sugar  and  flour  sifted  over  them. 
Bake  them  in  a  pretty  warm  oven. 

BISCUITS,  ALMOND  (  SMALL). 
Beat  up  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  for  ten  min- 
utes, with  four  ounces  of  powder  sugar  and 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds  well  ponnded ; 
then  add  a  whole  egg,  and  beat  it  up  five 
minutes  longer.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  strong 
froth ;  mix  them  and  an  ounce  and  half  of 
fine  sifted  flour  with  the  yolks;  work  this 
paste  well,  and  then  pour  it  into  small  well- 
buttered  copper  moulds  melon-shajjed ;  glaze 
them;  sprinkle  tliem  with  powder  sugar, 
and  bake  for  eighteen  or  twenty  minutes  in  i 
a  moderate  oven. 


BISCUITS,  ALMOND  (Souffles). 
Blanch  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  cut 
them  into  dice  and  dry  them  in  tlie  oven. 
Make  a  glaze  with  the  whites  of  two  new- 
laid  eggs ;  mix  the  almonds  and  a  pinch  of 
crisped  orange-flowers  into  this,  and  put  it 
into  very  small  paper  cases ;  do  not  fill  them 
above  half  full,  as  they  rise  considerably  in 
the  oven,  and  would  otherwise  fall  over  and 
spoil  their  appearance;  bake  them  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven.  As  soon  as  they 
are  pretty  firm,  they  are  done. 

BISCUITS,  ANISE  (SMALL).  Wash 

four  drachms  of  starred  anise,  and  dry  it  in 
tlie  oven ;  work  up  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  and 
a  (juarter  of  a  pound  of  powder  sugar  for 
about  ten  minutes;  whip  the  whites  to  a 
strong  froth,  and  mix  them  lightly  with  tlie 
yolks :  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dry  sifted 
flour  and  the  anise ;  pour  this  paste  into  a 
paper  case,  eleven  inches  long  by  seven  wide. 
Bake  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  forty  or 
fifty  minutes,  when,  if  firm,  take  it  out.  As 
soon  as  it  is  cold  remove  tlie  paper,  and  cut 
the  biscuits  into  whatever  forms  you  please: 
dry  thcin  in  the  oven  until  they  become 
brittle. 

BISCUIT,  BREAD.  Dry  fine  flour  and 
powder  sugar,  of  each  half  a  pound,  thor- 
oughly :  beat  up  four  veiy  fresh  eggs  for  ten 
minutes,  then  add  die  sugar,  beat  them  ten 
minutes  longer,  put  the  flour,  and  continue 
beating  ten  minutes  more.  Butter  your  bak- 
ing plates  and  bake.  Caraway  or  aniseed 
may  be  added,  if  you  please. 

BISCUITS,  BUTTER.  Make  a  paste 
as  for  sweet  biscuits,  and  when  you  have 
put  in  the  flour,  pour  over  it  eight  ounces  of 
melted  butter,  after  it  has  cooled  a  little; 
mix  them  together  a  short  time  with  a  wood- 
en s|xwn,  and  put  into  buttered  moulds, 
which  must  only  be  filled  three  parts,  as  the 
paste  puffs  up  considerably,  and  would  rise 
from  the  moulds,  without  care. 

BISCUIT  CAKE.     (See  Cake.) 

BISCUITS,  CHESTNUT.  Take  six 
ounces  of  roasted  and  skinned  chestnuts,  a 
little  grated  lemon-peel,  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  powder  sugar,  and  ten  whites  of  eggs. 
Pound  the  chestnut^  to  a  paste,  and  then 
beat  it  up  in  an  eartlien  pan  with  the  other 
ingredients ;  when  your  paste  is  of  a  proper 
thickness,  take  it  up  with  a  knife,  and  lay 
it  on  paper,  and  form  into  biscuits  whatever 
size  you  please.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  when  of  a  nice  color  take  them 
out.  Do  not  remove  tliem  from  the  paper 
till  they  are  cold. 


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21 


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BISCUITS,  DROP.  (1)  Pound  and  sift 
a  pound  of  fine  sugar,  take  tlie  yolks  of  seven 
and  the  whites  of  ten  eggs  and  beat  well  sepa- 
rately for  an  hour.  Dry  and  sift  a  pound  of 
fine  flour,  and  when  cold  mix  it  with  tlie 
eggs  and  sagai-,  beat  all  together  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  drop  upon  paper,  sift  sugar  over, 
and  bake  them. 

BISCUITS,  DROP.  (2)  Beat  a  pound 
of  sugar,  die  yolks  of  four,  and  whites  of  two 
eggs,  wiUi  a  little  white  wine,  then  put  in  a 
pound  of  flour,  and  a  few  seeds,  mix  all  well 
togetlier.  Butter  a  paper,  lay  your  batter 
on  in  spoonfuls,  ice  them  with  fine  sugar, 
and  set  tliem  in  a  gentle  oven. 

■  ;■  BISCUITS  EN  CAPSULE.  Put  half 
a  pound  of  fine  sugar  into  an  eartlien  pan, 
and  pour  over  it  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs ; 
put  the  whites  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
whisk  diem  for  half  an  hour ;  in  die  mean- 
time the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  must  be 
stirred  widi  a  wooden  spoon,  and  pour  them 
on  the  -whites ;  stu"  them  gently,  add  six 
ounces  of  fine  flour  and  two  of  powder  sugar 
sifted,  and  die  grated  rind  of  a  lemon.  Mix 
it  all  well  together,  but  with  great  caie,  lest 
the  snow  of  the  whites  should  fall.  With 
this  fill  some  small  buttered  moulds,  or  pa- 
per cases,  and  bake  Uiem  in  a  quick  oveti  to 
a  deep  yellow,  first  sprinkling  them  with  su- 
gar. If  diey  are  in  moulds,  turn  them  out 
when  baked;  but  diey  may  remain  in  the 
paper  cases,  which  need  not  be  buttered. 

BISCUITS,  FILBERT.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  filljerts,  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds, 
the  whites  of  six,  and  the  yolks  of  tliree 
eggs,  an  ounce  of  flour,  and  half  a  pound  of 
sugar;  blanch  and  pound  the  filterts  and 
almonds,  adding,  occasionally,  a  little  white 
of  egg  to  prevent  their  oiling.  Beat  the 
whites  to  a  snow,  then  the  yolks,  mix  the 
latter  with  half  the  sugar;  beat  them  well, 
and  having  mixed  the  other  ingredients  to- 
gether, put  diem  into  a  sieve,  and  whilst 
you  are  beating,  sift  them  into  the  whites; 
when  all  are  thoroughly  incorporated,  pour 
the  preparation  into  paper  cases,  and  bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven.  A  little  grated 
lemon-peel,  or  any  odier  aromatic  ingre- 
dient added  to  tlie  yolks,  greatly  improves 
these  biscuits. 

BISCUIT,  FRENOT.  Weigh  five  eggs, 
and  their  weight  in  dried  and  sifled  flour, 
and  in  (inely-ix)unded  loaf  sugar;  beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff"  froth,  and  by 
degrees  beat  in  the  sugar  and  die  flour,  and 
then  add  the  beaten  yolks ;  widi  a  spoon  half 
fill  yellow  tea-cups,  previously  nibbed  with 
butter,  and  sift  loaf  sugar  over  the  top.  Bake 
thera  in  a  quick  oven,     Or,  drop  the  biscuit 


in  a  round  form  upon  sheets  of  white  papef 
buttered ;  sift  sugar  over  them. 

BISCUIT,  KING'S.  Put  lialf  a  pound 
of  butter  into  a  basin,  and  work  it  about 
well  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  break  six  eggs 
and  whisk  them  well,  add  a  half  pound  of 
powder-sugar,  and  whisk  ten  minutes  longer, 
and  then  mix  diem  with  the  butter;  stir  in 
six  ounces  of  currants,  and  die  same  of  dried 
flour.  When  all  is  well  mixed,  drop  it,  the 
size  of  a  shilling,  on  paper,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven.     Take  them  off  while  hot. 

BISCUIT,  LEMAN'S.  Sifl  and  dry 
a  pound  of  fine  floiu* ;  rub  it  into  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  pounded 
and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  a  bit  of  volatile 
salt  about  the  size  of  a  nut ;  mix  in  as  much 
new  milk  warmed  as  will  make  it  into  a  stiff 
paste ;  work  it  well  together,  and  let  it  re- 
main for  two  or  diree  hours,  and  then  roll  it 
out,  and  make  it  into  small  square  biscuits, 
and  into  round  balls  a  little  flattened ;  prick 
tliem  with  a  fork,  and  bake  them  upon  tins 
in  a  quick  oven.  Take  care  they  do  not 
become  brown. 

BISCUITS,  NAPLES.  Put  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  flour  to  a  pound 
of  fine  sifted  sugar ;  sift  bodi  together  three, 
times,  then  add  six  eggs  beaten  well,  and  a 
spoonful  of  rose-water;  when  the  oven  is 
neai-ly  hot,  balte  diem,  but  not  too  wet. 

BISCUIT,  THE  NUNS.  Take  the 
whites  of  twelve  eggs,  and  beat  them  to  a 
fi-oth ;  a  pound  of  almonds,  blanch  them,  and 
beat  them  with  the  froth  of  the  whites  of 
eggs,  as  it  rises ;  then  take  die  yolks,  and 
two  pounds  of  fine  sugar  and  beat  them  well 
together,  then  mix  die  almonds  with  the 
sugar  and  eggs ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of 
flour,  with  the  peel  of  four  lemons  grated,  and 
some  citron  shred  small ;  put  the  composition 
in  little  cakepaiis,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick 
oven,  and  when  they  are  tjolored,  turn  them 
on  tins  to  harden  the  bottoms :  but  before  you 
set  them  in  die  oven  again,  sift  on  them  some 
double-refined  sugar.  Let  the  pans  be  but- 
tered, and  fill  them  halfway. 

BISCUITS,  POTATO.  (1)  Beat  the 
yolks  of  fifteen  eggs  widi  a  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  grate  tlie  rind  of  a  lemon  on  a  piece 
of  lum|>  sugar ;  scrape  off  the  yellow  sugar 
with  a  knife,  and  having  dried  it  well,  add 
it  to  the  above,  and  continue  to  beat  till  it 
becomes  quite  white ;  in  the  meantime  whip 
up  an  equal  numlier  of  whites,  and  mix  them 
lightly  with  die  rest;  dien  sift  into  it  half  a 
pound  of  potato  flour;  stir  it  in,  and  jx>ur 
the  preparation  into  paper  cases,  but  not  to  fill 
them ;  glaze,  and  place  the  cases  on  paper 


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22 


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laid  on  a  clean  baking-tin,  and  bake   in  a 
moderate  oven. 

BISCUIT,  POTATO.  (2)  Beat  sepa- 
rately the  yolks  and  whites  of  fifteen  eggs,  and 
with  the  yolks  beat  a  pound  of  pounded  and 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  the  grated  jieel  of  a  lem- 
on ;  when  very  light  add  the  whites,  and  sift  in 
through  a  sillc  sieve  half  a  pound  of  flour  of 
potatoes ;  mix  all  lightly  together,  half  fiU 
paper  cases,  and  strew  over  them  roughly 
pounded  sugar,  put  a  piece  of  paper  upon  a 
boai'd,  place  the  paper  cases  upon  it,  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven.  To  ornament 
tliem,  put  here  and  there  upon  the  top  a 
little  red-currant  jelly,  and  serve  them. 

BISCUITS,  THE  QUEEN'S.  Take 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  floiu-,  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  fine  sugar,  the  whites  of  twenty-four, 
and  tlie  yolks  of  eighteen  eggs,  put  in  cori- 
ander seeds  beaten  small  at  discretion ;  mix 
these  well  together,  and  make  them  into  a 
soft  paste,  add  a  little  soft  yeast  or  not.  Lay 
this  paste  on  paper,  or  in  crusts  about  two 
inches  broad,  and  four  inches  long,  set  them 
in  a  mod'u'ate  oven,  and  when  they  begin 
to  turn  brown,  take  them  out,  and  lay  them 
on  paper,  in  a  dry  place. 

BISCUITS,  RICE.  Take  the  grated 
rind  of  a  lemon,  the  whites  of  sixteen  eggs, 
the  yolks  of  six,  half  a  pound  of  rice  flour, 
ten  ounces  of  powder  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
apple,  and  the  same  of  apricot,  marmalade, 
and  two  ounces  of  orange-flowers.  Pound 
the  marmalades  and  orange-flowers  together, 
then  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  whipped  to  a 
snow ;  beat  the  yolks  with  the  sugar  for  a 
quai-ter  of  an  hoiu-,  put  them  to  the  rest,  and 
when  well  mixed  in,  add  tlie  lemon-peel  and 
rice-flour ;  work  all  together,  pour  tlie  prep- 
aration into  paper  cases,  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  glaze  them. 

BISCUITS,  SMALL.  Make  a  paste 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  three 
Sfraonfuls  of  fine  powder  sugar,  and  the  same 
of  marmalade ;  add  whites  of  eggs  to  work 
it  pretty  soft;  and  make  this  paste  to  what 
shape  and  size  you  please. 

BISCUITS,  SPUNGE.  Beat  together, 
for  half  an  hour,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
half  a  pound  of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar ; 
then  mix  in  lightly  six  ounces  of  dried  and 
sifted  flour,  and  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
or  a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  lemon,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  rose  water.  Flour  the 
pans,  fill  them  l^lf  full,  and  sift  pounded 
sugai'  over  them.    Bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

BISCUITS,  ST.  CLOUD.  Sift  two 
ounces  of  rice-flour  tbi-ough  a  tammy  into  an 


earthen  pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  powder 
sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a  little 
green  lemon  grated ;  beat  them  up  together 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour :  whisk  the  whites 
of  eight  eggs  to  a  froth  and  mix  them  with 
the  yolks.  Put  this  into  buttered  moulds  or 
paper  cases,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
When  done  take  them  from  the  mould  while 
hot,  and  ice  them  in  the  following  manner: 
beat  up  half  the  white  of  an  egg  and  two 
spoonfuls  of  powder-sugar  witli  a  wooden 
spoon,  add  occasionally  a  few  drops  of  lem- 
on-juice; when  it  becomes  quite  white  lay  it 
over  the  biscuits ;  and  place  them  in  the  oven 
a  minute  to  diy. 

BISCUIT, SUGAR.  (1)  Theweightof 
eight  eggs  in  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar,  and 
of  four  in  dried  flour;  beat  sepai-ately  the 
whites  and  yolks ;  with  the  yolks  beat  the 
sugar  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  the  whites 
and  the  floui',  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
lemon-peel,  or  pounded  cinnamon.  Bake 
them  in  yellow  te^-cups,  or  drop  them  upon 
paper,  as  the  French  biscuits. 

BISCUIT,  SUGAR.  (2)  Mix  together 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  the  same 
quantity  of  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
ten  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  few  pounded 
cloves.  Drop  this  upon  floured  tins,  and 
bake  it. 

BISCUIT,  SWEET.  One  pound  of 
flour,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  finely-pounded  sugar,  and  two  eggs, 
without  being  beaten;  make  it  all  into  a 
very  stiff"  paste  with  cool  water,  roll  it  out, 
and  to  form  the  biscuits,  roll  a  bit  of  the 
paste  into  a  ball  about  the  size  of  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  flatten  it  a  little,  and  place  them 
upon  tins  to  bake. 

BISCUITS,  YARMOUTH.  Pick  and 
wash  half  a  pound  of  currants,  dry  them  well, 
rub  a  little  flour  with  them,  and  put  them 
with  half  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  tlvee- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  and  half 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  mix  them  into  a 
paste  with  three  eggs,  roll  it  out  to  the 
thickness  of  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  cut  them 
into  what  shapes  you  please.  Bake  diem  of 
a  light  color  in  a  hot  oven. 

BISHOP.  Roast  four  good-sized  bitter 
oranges  till  they  are  of  a  pale  brown  color; 
lay  them  in  a  tureen,  and  put  over  them  half 
a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  three 
glasses  of  claret;  place  the  cover  on  tlie 
tureen,  and  let  it  stand  till  next  day.  When 
required  for  use,  put  the  tureen  into  a  pan  of 
boiling  water,  press  the  oranges  with  a  spoon, 
and  run  the  juice  through  a  sieve ;  Uien  boil 
tlie  remainder  of  the  bottle  of  claret,  taking 


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BLA 


care  that  it  do  not  burn ;  add  it  to  the  strain- 
ed juice,  and  serve  it  warm  in  glasses. 

BLANC.  A  mixture  of  butter,  salt, 
water,  and  a  slice  of  lemon ;  also  as  follows : 
— Cut  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  and  the  same  of 
fat  bacon  into  dice,  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  salt  and  pepper,  one  or 
two  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  thyme, 
a  bay  leaf  and  spice. 

-BLANCMANGE.  (1)  To  one  ounce  of 
picked  isinglass,  put  a  pint  of  water,  boil  it 
till  the  isinglass  is  melted,  with  a  bit  of  cin- 
namon; put  to  it  tlu'ee-quarters  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  two  ounces  of  sweet  abnonds,  six 
bitter  ones  blanched  and  beaten,  a  bit  of 
lemon-peel,  sweeten  it,  stir  it  over  the  fire, 
let  it  boil,  strain  and  let  it  cool,  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  put  into  moulds ; 
garnish  to  your  fancy.  Blancmange  may  be 
colored  green  by  adding  spinach-juice ;  red, 
by  a  bit  of  cochineal  in  brandy,  let  it  stand 
half  an  hour  and  strain  it ;  yellow  widi 
saffron. 

BLANCMANGE.  (2)  Boil  for  a  few 
minutes  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk,  wiUi 
an  ounce  of  picked  isinglass  (if  in  summer, 
one  ounce  and  a  quarter),  the  rind  of  half  a 
lemon  peeled  very  thin,  a  little  cinnamon, 
and  a  blade  of  mace,  and  two  and  a  half 
ounces  of  lump  sugar:  blanch  and  pound 
eight  or  ten  bitter,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
sweet  almonds  very  fine,  with  a  spoonfiil  of 
rose  water,  and  mix  them  with  die  milk; 
strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve  or  napkin  into 
a  basin,  with  half  a  pint  of  good  cream. 
Let  it  stand  half  an  hour;  pour  it  into 
another  basin,  leaving  the  sediment  at  the 
bottom,  and  when  nearly  cold  fill  it  into 
moulds ;  when  wanted,  put  your  finger  round 
the  mould;  pull  out  the  blancmange;  set 
it  in  the  centre  of  a  dish,  and  garnish 
with  slices  of  orange.  N.  B. — ^About  half  a 
gill  of  noyeau  may  be  substituted  for  die  al- 
monds. 

BLANCMANGE.  (3)  Boil  till  dissolv- 
ed, in  a  large  tea-cupful  of  water,  tliree-quar- 
ters  of  an  ounce  of  isinglass;  when  milk- 
warm,  add  it  to  a  quart  of  rich  cream,  with  a 
stick  of  cinnamon,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  two  or 
three  laurel  leaves,  or  a  few  bitter  almonds ; 
sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar ;  stir  it 
over  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  for  two  or  three 
minutes ;  strain  it  through  a  bit  of  muslin 
into  a  deep  dish,  and  stir  it  till  nearly  cold, 
then  pour  it  into  an  eardien-ware  mould  or 
sliape ;  tlie  following  day,  dip  the  mould  into 
warm  water  for  a  minute  or  so,  clap  it  with 
the  hand  to  loosen  the  edge,  place  the  glass 
or  china  dish  over  tlie  mould,  and  turn  it 
out  quickly  upon  the  dish.     AJb  much  cow-  | 


heel  stock  as  will  half  fill  the  shape  may  be 
substituted  for  tlie  isinglass. 

BLANCMANGE.  (4)  Blanch  and  pound 
with  a  litde  ratafia,  or  rose-water,  two 
ounces  of  sweet,  and  six  bitter  almonds ;  dis- 
solve three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  isinglass ; 
add  it,  when  milk -warm,  to  a  quart  of  good 
cream ;  half  milk  half  cream  may  be  used ; 
mix  in  the  almonds  the  peel  of  a  small  lem- 
on, and  a  bit  of  cinnaii^on ;  sweeten  it  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  let  it  stand  for  two  or 
three  houis,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  stir  it 
constantly,  and  let  it  boil  for  six  or  eight 
minutes ;  strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  and 
stir'  it  till  nearly  cold,  then  pour  it  into  a 
iiiould. 

BLANCMANGE.  (5)  Blanch  and  pound 
one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  with  a  glass  of 
sherry,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  pounded  loaf 
sugar ;  add  it  to  thiee-quai"ters  of  an  ounce 
of  isinglass  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  boil  it  till  the  flavor  of  the  almonds  be 
extracted,  stirring  it  all  the  time;  sti-ain  it 
through  a  bit  of  Uiin  muslin,  and  mix  with 
it  a  quart  of  good  cream ;  stir  it  till  quite . 
cold,  and  pour  it  into  a  shape. 

BLANCMANGE,  AMERICAN.     Mix 

half  a  pint  of  cold  water  with  two  ounces  of 
arrowroot,  let  it  settle  for  fifleen  minutes, 
pour  off  die  water,  and  add  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  laurel  water,  and  a  little  sugar ;  sweet- 
en a  quart  of  new  milk,  boil  it  with  a  little 
cinnamon,  and  half  the  peel  of  a  lemon ;  pick 
out  the  cinnamon  and  lemon,  and  pour  the 
boiling  milk  upon  the  arrow-root,  stirring  it 
all  the  time.  Put  it  into  a  mould,  and  turn 
it  out  die  following  day. 

BLANCMANGE,  DUTCH.  Wash  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass,  pour  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  boiling  water  over  it,  let  it 
stand  for  an  lioui-,  and  then  boil  it  for  twen- 
ty minutes;  stiain,  and  when  it  is  nearly 
cold,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  a 
pint  of  Lisbon  wine,  the  peel  of  one  and 
juice  of  two  lemons,  with  a  stick  of  cinna- 
mon, and  sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
stir  it  over  die  fire  till  it  begin  to  simmer, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil ;  pick  out  the 
peel  and  cinnamon,  pour  it  into  a  basin, 
stir  it  till  nearly  cold,  and  put  it  into  a 
shape. 

BLANCMANGE  EGGS.  Make  a  small 
hole  at  the  end  of  four  or  five  large  eggs, 
and  let  out  all  the  egg  carefully ;  wash  the 
shell,  drain,  and  fill  them  with  blancmange, 
place  them  in  a  deep  dish  filled  with  rice  or 
barley  to  keep  them  steady,  and  when  quite 
cold,  gently  break  and  peel  oft'  the  shell. 
Cut  die  peel  of  a  lemon  into  delicately  fine 


BRA 


24 


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shreds,  lay  them  into  a  glass  dish,  and  put 
in  the  eggs ;  or  sen'e  them  in  a  glass  dish 
with  a  pink  cream  round  them. 

BLACK  COCK,  MOOR  GAME,  AND 
GROUSE,  Are  all  to  be  dressed  like  par- 
tridges; the  black  cock  will  take  as  much 
as  a  pheasant,  and  moor  game  and  grouse 
as  the  paitridge.  Send  up  with  tliem  cm- 
rant-jelly  and  fried  bread  crumbs. 

BOILING.  See  directions  at  beginning 
Of  die  book. 

BOLAR  CAKE.     See  Cake. 

BRANDY  PUDDING.   See  Pudding. 

BRAISING  PAN.  A  deep  well-tinned 
copper  vessel,  with  two  ears,  the  lid  of  which 
must  close  hermetically,  and  have  a  ledge 
round  so  that  coals  or  hot  ashes  may  be 
placed  on  the  top  when  necessary. 

BRAISING.  This  is  a  method  of 
dressing  meat,  poultry,  &c.  &c.  witliout  its 
undergoing  any  evaporation.  It  is  done  by 
lining  a  braising-pan  with  thin  slices  of  bacon, 
beef,  or  veal,  upon  which  place  whatever 
you  may  intend  to  braise^  and  also  add 
cauTots,  onions,  lemons,  bay  leaf,  herbs, 
pepper  and  salt. 

BRAWN,^  A  COLLAR  OF.  Wash, 
scrape,  and  clean  very  thoroughly  a  large  pig's 
head,  feet,  and  ears ;  lay  diem  into  salt  and 
water,  with  a  little  saltpetre,  for  three  hours. 
To  make  the  collar  larger,  boil  two  ox  heels, 
with  the  head,  feet,  and  ears,  till  all  the 
bones  can  be  taken  out  easily,  then  put  the 
bead  round  die  mould,  and  the  feet  and  small 
pieces  into  the  middle;  put  it  together  while 
hot,  and  press  it  with  a  heavy  weight  till  it 
becomes  cold.  Boil  for  half  an  hour,  in  as 
much  of  the  liquor  as  will  cover  the  brawn, 
one  handful  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  pepper, 
and  one  or  two  bay  leaves.  When  cold, 
poui-  it  over  the  brawn. 

BRAWN,  MOCK.  Take  the  blade  bone 
out  of  the  shoulder,  and  boil  it  gently  two 
hours  or  more,  according  to  the  age  of  the 
boar.  When  it  is  cold,  season  it  very  high- 
ly widi  pepper,  Cayenne,  salt,  a  very  little 
allspice,  minced  onion,  and  thyme.  Let  it 
lie  a  night  in  this  seasoning;  the  following 
day,  make  a  savoury  forcemeat  of  pounded 
veal,  ham,  beef  suet,  minced  parsley,  thyme, 
and  an  onion,  a  little  lemon-peel,  salt,  nut- 
meg, pepper,  and  Cayenne;  bind  it  with  an 
egg  beaten,  and  stuft"  where  the  bone  has 
been  taken  out.  Put  it  into  a  deep  pan  with 
the  brown  side  downwai-ds,  and  lay  under  it 
twigs  or  small  sticks,  to  keep  it  trom  stick- 


ing to  the  bottom ;  pour  in  a  botde  of  beer, 
and  put  it  into  the  oven.  When  neaily  done, 
tiike  it  out  and  clear  off  all  die  fat/ add  a 
bottle  of  Madeira  and  the  juice  of  a  large 
lemon,  return  it  to  the  oven,  and  bake  it  till 
it  become  as  tender  as  a  jelly,  so  that  a 
straw  will  pierce  it  easily.  If  the  boar  is 
an  old  one,  it  will  re(|uire  to  be  baked  six  or 
seven  hours.     This  dish  is  eaten  hot. 

BRAWN,  TO  BAKE.  Take  raw  lean 
brawn,  and  the  same  quantity  of  fat  bacon, 
mince  them  small,  then  pfjund  them  in  a 
stone  moitar,  with  a  handful  of  sage,  swason- 
ed  with  salt,  pepper  and  ginger,  add  the 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  some  vinegar,  then  put 
the  brawn  into  a  cold  paste,  lay  on  Viutter 
and  bay  leaves,  make  your  pie  round  and 
bake  it.     To  be  eaten  cold. 

BREAKFAST  CAKE.     See  Cake. 

BREAD.  (1)  Put  a  quartern  of  flour  into  a 
large  basin,  with  two  tea-spioonftils  of  salt ; 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle;  then  put  in  a 
basin  four  table-spoonfuls  of  good  yeast ;  stir 
in  a  pint  of  milk,  lukewarm ;  put  it  in  the 
hole  of  die  flour;  stir  it  just  to  make  it  into 
a  diin  batter;  dien  strew  a  little  flour  over 
die  top;  then  put  it  on  one  side  of  the 
fire,  and  cover  it  over;  let  it  stand  till  the 
next  morning ;  then  make  it  into  dough ;  add 
half  a  pint  more  of  warm  milk ;  knead  it 
for  ten  minutes,  and  then  set  it  in  a  warm 
place  by  the  fire  for  one  hour  and  a  half: 
dien  knead  it  again,  and  it  is  ready  either 
for  loaves  or  bricks:  bake  them  from  one 
hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  according  to 
the  size. 

BREAD.  (2)  Mix  into  six  pounds  of  sifled 
flour  one  ounce  of  salt,  neaily  half  a  pint  of 
fresh  sweet  yeast  as  it  comes  from  the  brew- 
evy,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  warmed  milk 
to  make  die  whole  into  a  stiff  dough ;  work 
and  knead  it  well  upon  a  pasteboard,  on 
which  a  little  flour  has  been  sti-ewed,  for  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes,  then  put  it  into  a 
deep  pan,  cover  it  with  a  wanned  towel,  set 
it  befoie  the  fire,  and  let  it  rise  for  an  hour 
and  a  half,  or  perhaps  two  hours ;  cut  off  a 
piece  of  this  sponge  or  dough ;  knead  it  well 
for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  together  with  flour 
merely  sufiicient  to  keep  it  from  adiiering  to 
the  board;  put  it  into  small  tins,  filling Uiem 
three-quarters  full;  dent  the  rolb  all  round 
with  a  knife,  and  let  them  stand  a  few  min- 
utes before  putting  thom  into  the  oven. 
The  remainder  of  the  dough  must  then  be 
worked  up  for  loaves,  and  baked  either  in 
or  out  of  a  sliape. 

BREAD,  ALMOND.     Take  a  pound  o 
die  best  ahnonds,  slice  diem  the  round  way. 


BRE 


25 


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beat  and  sift  a  pound  of  double-refined  sugar, 
and  sU-ew  it  over  the  almonds  as  you  cut 
them,  stirring  them  frequently  to  prevent  their 
sticking  together ;  when  all  die  sugar  is  used, 
put  them  into  an  eardien  basin,  with  a  few 
carraway  seeds,  a  little  gum  dragon  (dis- 
solved in  rose-water  and  strained),  three 
grains  of  musk  and  ambergris  dissolved  in 
fine  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
to  a  vei-y  light  froth,  and  two  spoonfuls  of 
fine  flour;  when  well  mixed  lay  them  on 
wafers  the  size  of  macaroons;  open  them 
with  a  knife  or  bodkin,  lest  two  or  tliree 
pieces  stick  together;  the  quicker  you  lay 
them,  the  better  they  will  look ;  put  them 
into  a  well-heated  oven,  taking  care  they  do 
not  scorch ;  when  half  baked,  take  them  out, 
wash  tliem  with  the  white  of  an  egg  beaten 
to  a  froth,  grate  a  little  fine  sugar  over  them, 
and  bake  tliem  about  half  an  hour  longer. 

BREAD  AND  BUTTER  PUDDING. 

See  Pudding. 

BREAD,  CHESTNUT.  Roast  a  hun- 
dred fine  chestnuts,  being  carefid  not  to 
burn  them ;  peel  them  well,  and  pound  them 
with  butter  and  double  cream;  pass  tliem 
through  a  sieve ;  add  two  eggs,  and  then 
strain  them  again.  Weigh  your  paste,  and 
for  every  pound,  allow  half  a  pound  of 
powder,  a  little  vanilla  in  powder,  and  two 
ounces  of  floui-;  mix  tliese  together,  and 
form  of  the  preparation  as  many  chestnuts 
as  it  will  make;  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of 
wafer  paper,  butter  and  dorez  tliem  seve- 
ral times,  and  dien  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

BREAD  CHEESECAKES.  Slice  a 
large  French  roll  very  thin,  pour  on  it  some 
boiling  cream ;  when  cold,  add  six  or  eight 
eggs,  half  a  pound  of  butter  melted,  some 
nutmeg,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  a  little  sugar, 
and  half  a  pound  of  currants.  Put  them  in 
puff  paste  as  otlier  cheesecakes. 

BREAD,  TO  SERVE  WITH  COF- 
FEE. Whip  up  the  whites  of  ten  eggs  to 
a  thick  snow ;  add  to  them  the  yolks  beaten 
with  eight  ounces  of  powder-sugar,  place  it 
over  a  charcoal  fire,  and  wliij)  it  for  half  an 
hour,  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  whip 
again  until  cold.  Mix  in  eight  ounces  of 
sifted  flour.  Have  ready  buttered  two 
moulds  lined  with  paper,  pour  tlie  paste  in- 
to them,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven ; 
when  done,  take  them  out  of  the  moulds  and 
remove  die  paper ;  when  cold,  cut  them  in 
slices  alx>ut  the  size  of  a  finger.  Place  Uiem 
on  a  plate  of  copper,  over  a  charcoal  fire, 
and  when  one  side  is  brown,  turn  diem  and 
brown  die  odier  side.  These  if  kept  dry 
will  be  good  for  a  long  time. 
3 


BREAD  CRUMBS,  FRIED.  Rub  bread 

that  has  been  baked  two  days,  through  an 
iron  sieve  or  cullender ;  put  diera  into  a  stew 
pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  place  it  ov&r 
a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  them  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  of  a  fine  gold  color ;  spread  them 
on  a  sieve,  and  let  them  stand  ten  minutes 
to  drain,  turning  them  often. 

BREAD,  FRENCH.  Take  half  a  bushel 
(or  six  pounds)  of  flour,  put  it  on  the  slab, 
make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  two 
ounces  of  yeast;  make  your  dough  with  warm 
water,  to  about  the  consistence  of  brioche; 
work  it  up  well,  adding  two  ounces  of  salt, 
dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water;  cover, and 
set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise ;  on  this  part 
of  the  operation  depends  the  quality  of  the 
bread.  Having  left  the  dough  one  or  two 
hours,  (according  to  the  season),  knead  it 
again,  and  leave,  it  as  before,  for  two  hours. 
In  the  meanwhile,  heat  the  oven,  divide  the 
dough  into  eight  equal  parts,  of  which  form 
as  many  loaves,  into  any  shape  you  pleaae; 
put  them  into  the  oven  as  quickly  as  possible. 
As  soon  as  they  ai'e  done,  rub  the  crusts  with 
a  little  butter,  which  will  give  it  a  fine  yellow 
color. 

BREAD,    FRENCH,    OR    ROLLS. 

Take  half  a  bushel  or  six  pounds  of  sifted 
flour,  knead  it  into  dough,  with  two  quarts 
of  milk,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  warm 
butter,  half  a  pound  of  yeast,  and  two  ounces 
of  salt ;  when  the  whole  is  well  worked  up, 
cover,  and  leave  it  to  rise.  In  two  hours 
time,  form  it  into  rolls,  and  lay  them  on 
tinned  plates.  Place  them  in  a  slow  oven. 
When  they  have  been  in  an  hour,  put  them 
into  a  very  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutep. 
Rasp  diem  as  soon  as  they  are  baked. 

BREAD  FRITTERS.  Boil  half  a  pint 
of  milk  till  reduced  to  half,  with  a  little 
sugar,  salt,  half  a  spoonful  of  orange-flower 
water,  and  a  little  lemon-peel  shred  fine; 
have  ready  some  pieces  of  crumb  of  bread, 
cut  about  the  size  of  half-crowns,  but  thicker ; 
put  them  into  the  milk  to  soak  a  little,  then 
di-ain,  flour,  and  fi-y  them.  Glaze  them  with 
sugar,  and  pass  the  salamander  over  them. 

BREAD,  LONDON.  To  make  London 
bread,  put  a  bushel  of  good  flour  which  has 
been  ground  a  month  or  six  weeks,  in  one 
end  of  die  trough,  and  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle  of  it.  Take  nine  quarts  of  warm 
water,  and  mix  it  with  one  quart  of  good 
yeast ;  put  it  into  the  flour,  and  stir  it  well 
with  your  hands ;  let  it  remain  until  it  rises 
as  high  as  it  will  go,  which  will  take  about 
an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Watch  it  carefidly 
to  its  idtimate  height,  and  do  not  suffer  it  to 


BRE 


26 


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f^U;  then  make  up  the  dough  with  eight 
quarts  more  of  warm  water  and  one  pound 
of  salt;  work  it  well  with  your  hands,  and 
then  cover  it  over  with  a  sack  or  other  coarse 
cloth.  Put  tlie  fire  into  the  oven;  heat  it 
thoroughly,  and  by  tlie  time  it  is  hot,  the 
dough  will  be  ready.  Next  make  the  dough 
into  loaves,  not  exceeding  four  or  five  pounds 
each,  sweep  out  the  oven  clean,  and  put  in 
the  loaves.  Shut  the  oven  close,  and  they 
will  be  baked  in  about  two  hours  and  a  half; 
then  o[)en  die  oven,  and  draw  the  bread.  In 
summer  tlie  water  need  not  be  moi'e  than 
blood  warm,  but  in  winter  it  must  be  a  few 
degrees  higher  in  heat.  Dui-ing  a  hard 
fi'ost,  however,  the  water  should  be  as  hot  as 
the  hand  could  bear  it,  tliough  not  sufficiently 
hot  to  scald  die  yeast,  as  that  would  spoil 
the  whole  batch  of  bread.  Other  quantities 
of  bread  are  made  in  the  same  proportion. 

BREAD,  PLAIN  SHORT.  The  same 
proportions  of  flour  and  butter  must  be  used 
as  in  the  receipt  for  short  bread ;  this  must 
be  mixed  together,  rolled  out,  but  not  made 
quite  so  diick  as  in  the  rich  kind ;  but  in  the 
same  form,  pricked  with  a  fork,  and  pinch- 
ed all  round.     A  little  sugar  may  be  added. 

BREAD,  RICE.  Take  a  pound  of  rice, 
and  let  it  simmer  in  two  quarts  of  water  till 
it  is  quite  tender;  when  it  is  of  a  proper 
warmth  mix  it  thoi'oughly  widi  four  pounds 
of  flour,  adding  yeast  and  salt,  the  same  as 
for  ether  bread ;  the  proper  quantity  of  yeast 
to  be  used,  is  about  four  spoonfuls ;  knead  it 
well ;  then  set  it  to  rise  before  the  fire.  A 
portion  of  die  flour  should  be  reserved  to 
make  up  the  loaves.  If  the  rice  should  re- 
quire more  water,  it  must  be  added,  as  some 
rice  swells  more  than  odier. 

BREAD,  SPICED,    COMMON.     (1) 

Boil  three  pounds  of  honey  in  a  gallon  of 
water  f  jr  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  pour  it 
on  the  flour  in  the  trough ;  mix  Uiem  together 
well,  until  the  flour  will  imbibe  no  more  li- 
quid ;  when  a  little  cooled,  add  three  ounces 
of  potash,  infused  the  night  before  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  knead  the  whole  well,  putting 
to  k  some  pounded  anise.  Roll  out  the 
pa.ste,  and  with  paste-cutters  of  various  forms, 
cut  it  into  little  figures,  lay  them  on  a  well- 
oiled  tin,  and  bake  them;  when  done,  wash 
them  over  with  milk.  With  this  paste 
spiced  nuts  are  made ;  when  formed,  lay  them 
on  tins,  and  leave  in  a  wai'ni  place  for  two 
or  diree  days  before  they  are  baked. 

BREAD,    SPICED,  (2)     FLEMISH. 

The  evening  before  you  wish  to  make 
your  spiced  bread,  dissolve  three  ounces  of 
white  potash  in  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  set 
it  aside.     The  next  morning  put  a  consider- 


able quantity  of  sifted  flour  into  a  trough, 
make  a  hole  in  the  heap,  inlo  which  pour  six 
pounds  of  clarified  honey  ;  whilst  boiling,  stir 
it  well  with  a  strong  spatula,  until  die  honey, 
reduced  to  a  firm  paste,  will  imbibe  no  more 
flour,  dien  spread  it  all  over  die  bottuin  of 
die  trough,  and  leave  it  for  about  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes ;  at  the  end  of  that  time,  if  die 
paste  be  sufticiently  cool  for  you  to  bear  your 
hand  on  it,  rub  its  surface  with  the  infusion 
of  potash;  then  let  a  strong  person  knead  it, 
in  the  same  manner  as  die  bakei-s  knead 
bread.  Have  ready  a  number  of  different- 
sized  moulds  of  pear  tree  wood,  on  Avhich 
are  cut  (pretty  deep)  octagons  of  various  di- 
mensions ;  then  cut  your  paste  into  as  many 
pieces  as  you  have  moulds,  in  the  following 
proportions: — for  the  mould  containing  a 
pound,  take  eighteen  ounces  of  paste ;  for  a 
half  pound,  fourteen  ounces;  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  seven  ounces  of  paste,  and  so  on ; 
knead  each  piece  separately  on  the  slab,  rub 
them  widi  flour  to  prevent  their  adhering,  and 
then  put  them  into  the  respective  moulds; 
press  it  down  tight ;  in  a  minute  or  two  turn 
diem  over,  place  them  on  a  tin  plate  (pre- 
viously rubljed  with  olive  oil),  and  widi  a 
soft  brush  take  off  what  flour  may  remain 
on  the  surface  of  the  spicdd  bread,  and  bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven.  Whilst  they  are 
baking,  dissolve  some  isinglass  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  beer,  with  which,  by  means  of 
a  hair  pencil,  wash  die  outside  of  the  spiced 
bread  as  soon  as  it  is  done ;  and  then,  while 
it  is  moist  and  warm,  decorate  it  widi 
blanched  almonds,  candied  lemon  and  orange 
peel.,  cut  into  dice.  You  may,  if  you  diink 
proper,  cut  these  sort  of  sweet  meats  into 
very  small  pieces,  and  knead  diem  into  your 
paste  at  first.  When  diey  are  nearly  cold,  | 
separate  the  pieces  with  a  knife.  ^ 

BREAD,  SHORT.  For  two  pounds  of 
sifted  flour  allow  one  pound  of  butter,  salt  or 
fresh ;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  orange 
and  lemon  }x;el,  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
blanched  sweet  almonds,  and  carraway  com- 
fits, a  quarter  of  a  pound  each ;  cut  die  lem- 
on, the  orange  peel,  and  almonds  into  small 
thin  bits,  and  mix  them  with  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  the  flour,  a  few  of  the  CEU-away  com- 
fits, and  the  sugar ;  melt  thelautter,  and  when 
cool,  pour  it  clear  from  die  sediment  into  the 
flour,  at  the  same  time  mixing  it  quickly. 
Widi  the  hands,  fonn  it  into  a  large  round 
of  nearly  an  inch  thick,  using  the  remainder 
of  the  flour  to  make  it  up  wiUi ;  cut  it  in- 
to four,  and  with  die  finger  and  thumb  pinch 
each  bit  neatly  all  round  the  edge ;  prick  them 
with  a  fork,  and  strew  the  rest  of  the  carra- 
way comfits  over  die  top.  Put  the  pieces 
upon  white  paper  dusted  widi  flour,  and 
dien  upon  tins.    Bake  them  in  a  moderate 


BRO 


27 


BRO 


BREAD,  TIPSY.  Pare  off  the  crust, 
and  cut  into  thin  round  slices  of  four  or  five 
inches,  the  cnunb  of  a  twopenny  or  three- 
penny roll ;  spread  over  each  bit  raspberry 
or  sti-awberry  jam,  and  place  die  slices  one 
over  the  other  pretty  high  in  a  glass  dish, 
and  pour  over  them  as  much  sherry,  sweeten- 
ed with  sugar,  as  the  bread  will  soak  in; 
stick  round  the  sides,  and  over  the  top, 
blanched  sweet  almonds,  cut  like  straws,  and 
pour  a  custivrd  round  it.  It  may  Ix;  made 
the  day  before,  or  two  or  tlu-ee  hours  before 
dinner,  and  widi  the  cnunb  of  loaf  bread. 

BREAD  SAUCE.     See  Sauces. 

BRENTFORD  ROLLS.  Mix  witli 
two  pounds  of  flour  a  little  salt,  two  ounces 
of  sifted  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  and 
two  eggs  beaten  with  two  spoonfuls  of  yeast, 
and  about  a  pint  of  milk ;  knead  the  dough 
well,  and  set  it  to  rise  before  the  fire.  Make 
twelve  lolls,  butter  tin  plates,  and  set  them 
before  the  fire  again  to  rise.  When  of  a 
proper  size,  bake  them  for  half  an  hour. 

.  BRIOCHE.  Divide  half  a  quartern  of 
flour  into  three  parts,  and  knead  into  one  of 
them  half  an  oimce  of  yeast  and  a  little  warm 
water,  wi'ap  it  in  a  cloth  and  set  it  by,  in 
summer  time  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
in  winter  for  a  whole  hour.  When  it  has 
risen,  put  it  to  the  remainder  of  the  flour, 
with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  butter,  ten  eggs, 
half  a  glass  of  water,  and  nearly  an  ounce 
of  salt ;  knead  them  together  with  your  hand 
thoroughly,  and  then  wrap  it  in  a  clean  nap- 
kin and  leave  it  nine  or  ten  hours.  Cut 
tlie  paste  into  the  size  you  wish  to  make  the 
cakes,  moisten,  and  i-oll  them  in  the  hand, 
flatten  tlie  top,  and  gild  them  witli  the 
yolk  of  an  egg.  Half  an  hour  will  be 
sufiicient  to  bake  the  small  ones;  lai-ge 
cakes  will  require  an  hour  and  a  half. 

BROILING.  See  directions  at  begin- 
ning of  the  book. 

BROCCOLI.  Set  a  pan  of  clean  cold 
water  on  the  table,  and  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire  with  plenty  of  water,  and  a  handflil  of 
salt  in  it.  Broccoli  is  prepared  by  stripping 
off  all  the  side  shoots,  leaving  the  top ;  peel 
off  the  skin  of  the  stalk  with  a  knife ;  cut  it 
close  off  at  the  bottom,  and  put  it  into  the 
pan  of  cold  water.  When  the  water  in  the 
stewpan  boils,  and  the  broccoli  is  ready, 
put  it  in;  let  it  boil  briskly  till  the  stalks 
feel  tender,  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes ;  take 
it  up  with  a  slice,  that  you  may  not  brealc  it ; 
let  it  drain,  and  serve  up.  If  some  of  the 
heads  of  broccoli  are  much  bigger  than  tlie 
others,  put  them  on  to  boil  first,  so  that  they 
may  get  all  done  together.     Obs,—r\i  makes 


a  nice  supper-dish  served  upon  a  toast,  like 
asparagus.  It  is  a  very  delicate  vegetable,, 
and  you  must  take  it  up  the  moment  it  is 
done,  and  send  it  to  table  hot. 

BROTH,  BARLEY.  Chop  a  leg  of 
beef  in  pieces,  boil  it  in  tliree  gallons  of 
water,  with  a  cairot  and  a  crust  of  bread, 
till  reduced  to  half;  then  strain  it  off  and 
put  it  into  the  pot  again  with  half  a  joound 
of  barley,  four  or  five  heads  of  celei^  cut 
small,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion,  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  and  a  few  marigolds. 
Let  it  boil  an  hour.  Take  an  old  cock  or 
large  fowl  and  put  it  into  the  pot,  boil  till 
the  broth  is  quite  good.  Season  with  salt,? 
take  out  the  onion  and  herbs,  and  serve  it. ; ' 
The  fowl  may  be  omitted.  ^^ 

BROTH,  OF  BEEF.  Wash  a  leg  or 
shin  of  beef  very  clean,  crack  the  bone  io 
two  or  three  places,  add  to  it  any  trim- 
mings you  have  of  meat,  game,  or  poultry 
(heads,  necks,  gizzards  or  feet)  and  cover 
them  with  cold  water.  Watch  and  stir  it 
up  well  from  the  bottom,  and  the  moment  it 
begins  to  simmer,  skim  it  carefully.  Your 
broUi  must  be  perfectly  clear  and  limpid — 
for  on  this  depends  the  goodness  of  the 
soups,  sauces,  and  gravies,  of  which  it  is 
tlie  basis.  Then  add  some  cold  water  to 
make  the  remaining  scum  rise,  and  skim 
it  again.  When  tlie  scum  has  done  rising,  ' 
and  the  surface  of  the  broth  is  quite  clear, 
put  in  one  carrot,  a  head  of  celery,  two  ,' 
turnips,  and  two  onions.  It  should  not 
have  any  taste  of  sweet  herbs,  spice  or  gar^  •  ," 
lie  J  either  of  these  flavors  may  be  added  !  • 
afterward,  if  desired.  Cover  it  close,  set  it 
by  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  gently,  so  as  not  to  waste  the  broth, 
for  four  or  five  hours  or  more,  according  to 
the  weight  of  the  meat.  Strain  it  tlirough 
a  sieve  into  a  clean  and  dry  stone  pan,  and 
set  it  in  the  coldest  place  you  have. 

|CU^  This  is  the  foundation  of  all  sorts 
of  soups  and  sauces,  brown  and  white. 

BROTH,  CHICKEN.  Take  die  re- 
maining parts  of  a  chicken  firom  which 
panada  has  been  made,  all  but  the  rump; 
skin,  and  put  them  into  the  water  it  was 
first  boiled  in,  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
mace,  onion,  and  a  few  pepper-corns,  and 
simmer  it.  When  of  a  good  flavor,  put  to 
it  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  s\Vfcet  almonds 
beaten  with  a  spoonful  of  water ;  boil  it 
a  little  while,  and  when  cold,  take  off  tlie 
fat. 

BROTH,    CHICKEN    PECTORAL,;' 

Prepare  a  chicken  in  the  usual  way,  and ; 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  pints  and  a 
half  of  water,  two  ounces  of  pearl  barley, 


BRO 


28 


BRO 


ti»  same  of  rice,  and  two  ounces  of  the  best 
honey ;  boil  all  together,  skimming  well  for 
three  hours,  until  it  be  reduced  to  two-thirds. 

BROTH,  JELLY.  Take  a  joint  of  mut- 
ton, a  capon,  a  fillet  of  veal,  and  three  quarts 
of  water ;  put  these  into  an  earthen  pan,  and 
boil  them  over  a  gentle  fii-e  till  reduced  to 
half;  then  squeeze  all  togedier,  and  strain 
the  liquor  through  a  napkin. 

BROTH,  MUTTON.  Take  two  pounds 
of  scrag  of  mutton;  to  take  die  blood  out, 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  cover  it  with 
cold  water ;  when  the  water  becomes  milk- 
warm,  pour  it  off;  then  put  it  in  four  or  five 
pints  of  water,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a 
table-spoonful  of  best  grits,  and  an  onion ;  set 
it  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  you  have  taken 
all  the  scum  off,  put  in  two  or  three  turnips ; 
let  it  simmer  very  slowly  for  two  hours,  and 
strain  it  through  a  clean  sieve. 

BROTH,  MUTTON,  FOR  THE  SICK. 
Have  a  pound  and  a  half  of  a  neck  or  loin 
of  mutton;  take  off  the  skin  and  the  fat,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  it  with  cold 
water,  (it  will  talte  about  a  quart  to  a  pound 
of  meat),  let  it  simmer  veiy  gently,  and 
skim  it  well ;  cover  it  up,  and  set  it  over  a 
moderate  fire,  where  it  may  stand  gently 
stewing  for  about  an  hour ;  then  strain  it  off. 
It  should  be  allowed  to  become  cold,  when 
all  tlie  greasy  particles  will  float  on  tiie  sur- 
fece,  and  becoming  hard,  can  be  easily 
taken  off,  and  the  settlings  will  remain  at 
the  bottom.  N.  B. — We  direct  the  meat  to 
be  done  no  more  than  just  sufficiently  to  be 
eaten ;  so  a  sick  man  may  have  plenty  of 
good  broth  for  nothing ;  as  by  this  manner 
of  producing  it,  the  meat  furnishes  also  a 
good  family  meal.  This  is  an  inoffensive 
nourishment  for  sick  persons,  and  the  only 
mutton  broth  that  should  be  given  to  conva- 
lescents, whose  constitutions  require  replen- 
ishing with  restorative  aliment  of  easy  di- 
gestion. The  common  way  of  making  it 
with  roots,  onions,  sweet  herbs,  &c.  &c.  is 
too  strong  for  weak  stomachs.  Plain  broth 
will  agree  with  a  delicate  stomach,  when 
the  least  addition  of  other  ingredients  would 
immediately  offend  it. 

BROTH,  MEAGRE,  or  Soup  with 
Herbs.  Set  on  a  kettle  of  water,  put  in 
two  or  three  crusts  of  bread,  and  all  sorts  of 
good  herbs ;  season  with  salt ;  put  in  buttei', 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  boil  it  for  an 
hour  and  a  half:  then  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  or  napkin.  This  will  serve  to  make 
l^tuce  soup,  asparagus  soup,  soup  de  sante, 
&c.  with  herbs. 

BROTH,  MULLAGATAWNY,   OR 


CURRY.  Make  about  two  quarts  of  strong 
veal  broth,  seasoned  with  two  onions,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  salt  and  pepper ;  strain  it, 
and  have  ready  a  chicken,  cut  in  joints  and 
skinned ;  put  it  into  die  broth,  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  curry-powder ;  boil  tlie  chicken 
till  quite  tender,  and  a  little  before  serving, 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  stir  in  a  tea- 
cupful  of  cream.  Serve  boiled  rice  to  eat 
with  this  broth. 

BROTH,  RICE  VEAL.  Wash  cleaij 
six  pounds  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  and  cut  it 
in  two,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  four  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  half  a  pound  of  rice  well 
washed,  a  little  mace,  white  pepper,  and 
salt,  and  a  handful  of  chopped  parsley ;  let 
it  boil  for  two  hours.  Serve  part  of  tlie 
meat  in  the  tureen  with  the  broth.  The 
thick  part  of  the  knuckle  may  be  sent  up 
as  a  separate  dish,  widi  parsley  and  butter 
poured  over  it. 

BROTH,  WHITE.  Boil  a  fowl,  and 
when  it  is  enough,  take  it  up,  and  put  it  into 
a  dish ;  then  boil  your  cream  with  a  blade  of 
mace,  and  thicken  it  with  eggs ;  then  put  in 
the  marrow  of  one  beef  bone,  and  take  some 
of  the  broth,  and  mingle  diem  together ;  put  to 
it  a  spoonful  of  white  wine,  and  let  it  thick- 
en on  the  fire ;  then  put  the  fowl  hot  out  of 
the  broth,  set  it  on  a  chafing-disli  of  coals, 
and  serve  it. 

BROWN  ROUX,  OR  THICKENING. 
Put  into  a  nicely  tinned  saucepan  about  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  melt  it  slowly,  and 
dredge  in  flour  till  it  becomes  like  a  paste, 
carefully  stirring  it  all  the  time,  put  it  for 
a  few  minutes  upon  a  quick  fire,  and  then 
return  it  to  where  there  is  less  heat,  and 
stir  it  till  it  assumes  a  light  brown  color, 
when  it  may  be  put  into  a  jai-.  These 
thickenings  keep  for  sometime. 

BROWNING,  Is  a  convenient  article 
to  color  those  soups  or  sauces  of  which  it  is 
supposed  their  deep  brown  complexion  de- 
notes die  strength  and  savouriness  of  the 
composition.  Burned  sugar  is  also  a  fe.- 
vorite  ingredient  with  the  brewers,  who  use 
it  under  the  name  of  "  essentia  bina"  to  col- 
or their  beer :  it  is  also  employed  by  the  bran- 
dy makers,  in  considerable  quantity,  to  color 
brandy;  to  which,  besides  enriching  its  com- 
plexion, it  gives  that  sweetish  taste,  and  ful- 
ness in  the  mouth,  which  custom  has  taught 
brandy  drinkers  to  admire,  and  prefer  to 
the  finest  Cognac  in  its  genuine  state.  When 
employed  for  culinary  purjioses,  this  is  some- 
times made  with  strong  gravy,  or  walnut 
catchup.  Those  who  like  a  gout  of  acid 
may  add  a  little  walnut  pickle.  Put  half 
a  pound  of  pounded  lump  sugar,  and  a  table> 


BUNS 


29 


BUNS 


spoonful  of  water,  into  a  clean  iron  sauce-  ! 
pan,  set  it  over  a  slow  fire,  and  keep  stir- 
ring it  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  it  becomes  : 
a  bright  brown  color,  and  begins  to  smoke ;  j 
then  add  to  it  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  dilute  it  i 
by  degi-ees  with  water,  till  it  is  tlie  thick- 
ness of  soy ;   let  it  boil,  take  off  the  scum, 
and  strain  the   liquor    into   bottles,    which 
must  be  well  stopi^ed :  if  you  have  not  any 
of  this  by  you,  and  you  wish  to  darken  tlie 
color  of  your  sauces,  pound  a  tea-spoonful  1 
of  lump  sugar,  and  put  it  into  an  iron  spoon  ~  j 
with  as  much  water   as   will   dissolve    it;  I 
hold  it  over  a  quick  fire  till  it  becomes  of  a  j 
very  dark  brown  color;    mix  it    witli   tlie 
soup,  &c.  while  it  is  hot.  i 

BRUNSWICK  TART.     See  Tart. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS   TO    BOIL. 

Trim  and  wash  them  peifectly  clean,  and 
let  them  lie  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Put 
them  on  in  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt, 
and  boil  them  till  tender.  Di-ain  off  tlie 
water,  and  sei"ve  them  hot. 

BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAIC.    Chop  small 
some  boiled  white  cabbage ;  season  it  with 
f)epper  and  salt,  and  fry  it  witli  a  little  butter ;  | 
pepper  and  broil  some  slices  of  cold  boiled 
salted  beef;  put  the  fried  cabbage  into  a  dish,  I 
and  lay  round  it  the  slices  of  broiled  beef,  | 
and  serve  it  very  hot.     The  beef  does  best  i 
when  underdone.  I 

BUNS,  BATH.  Rub  togetlier,  with  | 
the  hand,  one  pound  of  fine  flour  and  a  half  | 
a  pound  of  butter;  beat  six  eggs,  and  add 
them  to  the  flour  with  a  table  spoonful  of  good 
yeast.  Mix  diem  all  together  with  half  a  tea- 
cup full  of  milk ;  set  it  in  a  warm  place  for 
an  hour ;  mix  in  six  ounces  of  sifted  sugar, 
and  a  few  caraway  seeds.  Mould  diem  in- 
to buns  with  a  table  spoon  on  a  baking  plate ; 
throw  six  or  eight  cai-a way  comfits  on  each, 
and  bake  diem  in  a  hot  oven  about  ten  min- 
utes. These  quantities  should  make  eight- 
een buns. 

BUNS,  COMMON.  Rub  four  ounces  of 
butter  into  two  pounds  of  flour,  four  ounces 
of  sugar,  a  few  Jamaica  peppers,  and  a  few 
can-away  seeds.  Put  a  spoonful  or  two  of 
cream  into  a  cup  of  yeast,  and  as  much  good 
milk  as  will  make  the  above  into  a  light 
paste ;  set  it  by  the  fire  to  rise.  They  will 
bake  quickly  on  tins ;  you  may  add  nutmeg. 

BUNS,  CROSS.  To  the  above  mix- 
ture put  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  ground  all- 
spice, cinnamon  and  mace,  mixed,  and  when 
half  proved,  press  the  form  of  a  cross  with 
a  tin  mould  in  the  centre,  and  finish  as 
above. 

3* 


BUNS,  PLUM.  To  two  pounds  of  the 
plain  bun  paste,  put  half  a  pound  of  currants, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  orange- 
peel,  cut  into  small  pieces,  lialf  a  nutmeg 
grated,  half  an  ounce  of  mixed  spice,  such 
as  allspice,  cinnamon,  &c.  Mould  them  in- 
to buns,  jag  diem  round  die  edges  with  a 
knife,  and  proceed  as  above. 

BUNS,  PLAIN.  To  four  pounds  of  sift- 
ed flour  put  one  pound  of  good  moist  sugar; 
make  a  cavity  in  the  centre,  and  stir  in  a 
gill  of  good  yeast,  a  pint  of  lukewarm  milk, 
with  enough  of  the  flour  to  make  it  die  thick- 
ness of  cream ;  cover  it  over,  and  let  it  lie 
two  hours ;  then  melt  to  an  oil  (but  not  hot) 
one  pound  of  butter,  stir  it  into  tlie  other  in- 
gredients, with  enough  warm  milk  to  make 
it  a  soft  paste ;  throw  a  litlte  flour  over,  and 
let  diem  lie  an  hour;  have  ready  a  baking- 
platter  rubbed  over  with  butter ;  mould  with 
the  hand  the  dough  into  buns,  about  the 
size  of  a  large  egg ;  lay  them  in  rows  fUl 
three  inches  apart ;  set  them  in  a  Avann  place 
for  half  an  hour,  or  till  they  have  risen  to 
double  their  size ;  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven 
of  a  good  color,  and  wash  them  over  with 
a  brash  dipped  into  milk  when  drawn  from 
the  oven. 

BUNS ,  RICHER.  Put  four  pounds  of 
fine  flour  into  a  wooden  bowl ;  set  a  sponge 
of  it  with  a  gill  of  yeast  and  a  pint  of 
warm  milk ;  then  mix  with  it  one  pound  of 
sifted  sugar,  one  pound  of  oiled  fresh  butter, 
coriander  seeds,  cinnamon,  and  mace,  a  small 
quantity  of  each,  poimded  fine.  Roll  the 
paste  into  buns,  set  them  on  a  baking-plate 
rubbed  widi  butter,  put  them  in  a  moderate 
oven  to  prove ;  then  wash  them  with  a  paste- 
brush  dipped  in  warm  milk,  and  bake  of  a 
good  color. 

BUNS,  SCOTS  CHRISTMAS.     Take 

four  pounds  of  raisins  stoned,  two  and  a  half 
of  currants  well  cleaned  and  dried,  half  a 
pound  of  almonds  blanched,  of  candied  orange 
and  lemon-peel  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each, 
cut  small ;  of  pounded  cloves,  pepper,  and 
ginger,  half  an  ounce  each,  four  pounds  of 
flour,  and  twenty-two  ounces  of  butter. 
Then  rub  the  butter  with  the  flour,  till  well 
mixed  together;  add  a  little  warm  vrater, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  fresh  good  yeast, 
and  work  it  into  a  light  smoodi  paste;  cut 
off  nearly  one-third  of  the  paste,  to  form  the 
sheet  or  case,  and  lay  it  aside;  with  the  rest 
work  up  the  fruit,  sweetmeats,  and  spices; 
make  it  into  a  round  form  like  a  thick  cheese. 
Roll  out  the  sheet  of  paste,  lay  the  bun  in  the 
centre,  and  gather  it  all  round,  closing  it  at 
die  bottom,  by  wetting  the  edges  of  the  paste, 
and  cuttnig  it  so  as  to  lie  quite  flat.  Turn 
it  up,  and  run  a  wire  or  small  skewer  through 


BUT 


30 


BtT 


from  the  top  to  the  bottom  every  here  and 
there,  and  prick  the  top  witli  a  fork.  Dou- 
ble and  flour  a  sheet  of  gray  paper,  and  lay 
the  bun  upon  it ;  bind  a  piece  round  tlie 
sides,  also  doubled  and  floui-ed,  to  keep  the 
bun  in  a  proper  shape.  Bake  it  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 

BUNS,  SEED.  Take  two  pounds  of 
plain  bun  dough,  and  mix  in  one  ounce  of 
cai*away  seeds,  butter  the  insides  of  tart- 
pans,  mould  the  dough  into  buns,  and  put 
one  into  each  pan;  set  them  to  rise  in  a 
warm  placej  and  when  sufficiently  proved, 
ice  them  witli  tlie  white  of  an  egg  beat  to  a 
fijoth,  lay  some  pounded  sugar  over  that,  and 
dissolve  it  with  water  splashed  from  the 
icing-brush.     Bake  ten  minutes. 

BURDWAN  STEW.  Cut  into  joints  a 
cold  fowl  or  duck,  put  it  into  a  stewpan, 
with  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  large  wine-glass 
of  ale,  half  a  one  of  white  wine,  the  juice 
erf"  half  a  lemon,  a  tea-spoonful  of  soy  and 
Cayenne ;  of  mushroom  catsup,  lemon  pickle, 
cucumber  vinegar,  coi-ach  escavecke,  a  des- 
sert-spoonful each.  Heat  all  tlioroughly  be- 
fore serving. 

BUTTER  BURNT.  Put  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter  into  a  small  frjing-pan ;  when  it 
becomes  a  dark  brown  color,  add  to  it  a 
teble-spoonful  and  a  half  of  good  vinegar, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  saU.  Obs. — This  is 
used  as  sauce  for  boiled  fish  or  poached 
eggs. 

BURNET  VINEGAR.    See  Vinegar. 

BUTTER  BISCUITS.    See  Biscuits. 

BUTTER  CAKES.     See  Cakes. 

BUTTER,  CLARIFIED.  Put  Uie  butter 
in  a  nice,  clean  stewpan,  over  a  very  clear, 
slow  fire;  watch  it,  and  when  it  is  melted, 
carefully  skim  off  the  buttermilk,  &c.  which 
will  swim  on  the  top ;  let  it  stand  a  minute 
or  two  for  the  impurities  to  sink  to  the  bot- 
tom; then  pour  the  clear  butter  through  a 
sieve  into  a  clean  basin,  leaving  the  sediment 
at  tlie  bottom  of  the  stewpan.  06s. — But- 
ter tlius  purified  will  be  as  sweet  as  marrow, 
a  very  useful  covering  for  otted  meats,  &c. 
and  for  frying  fish  equal  to  the  finest  Florence 
oil;  for  which  purpose  it  is  conmionly  used 
by  Catholics,  and  those  whose  religious  ten- 
ets will  not  allow  them  to  eat  vian&  fried  in 
animal  oil. 

BUTTER,  FRENCH  MELTED.  Mix, 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  flotrr,  a  little 
salt,  half  a  gill  of  water,  half  a  spoonful  of 


white  vinegar,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg'^ 
Put  it  on  the  fire,  stir  it,  and  let  it  thicken, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  lest  it  should  taste 
of  the  flour. 
I 

BUTTER,  MELTED.  (1)  Dust  a  little 
flour  over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  put 
it  into  a  saucepan,  widi  about  a  wine-glass 
of  water ;  stir  it  one  way  constantly  till  it  be 
melted,  and  let  it  just  boil :  a  round  wooden 
stick,  is  tlie  best  thing  to  stir  butter  with  in 
melting.  If  tlie  butter  is  to  be  melted  with 
cream,  use  the  same  proportion  as  of  water, 
but  no  flour ;  stir  it  constantly,  and  heat  it 
thoroughly,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  To  oil 
butter,  cut  about  a  (juarter  of  a  pound  into 
slices,  put  it  into  a  small  jar,  and  place  it  in 
a  pan  of  boiling  water.  When  oiled,  pour 
it  ofi"  clear  from  tlie  sediment. 

I  BUTTER,  MELTED,  (2)  Is  so  simple 
I  and  easy  to  prepare,  tliat  it  is  a  matter  of 
general  surprise,  that  what  is  done  so  often, 
is  so  seldom  done  right.  It  is  spoiled  nine 
times  out  of  ten,  more  from  idleness  than  from 
ignorance,  and  rather  because  tlie  cook  won't 
than  because  she  can't  do  it ;  which  can  on- 
ly be  the  case  wlien  housekeepers  will  not 
allow  butter  to  do  it  with.  Good  melted 
butter  cannot  be  made  with  mere  flour  and 
water ;  there  must  be  a  full  and  proper  pro- 
portion of  butter.  As  it  must  be  always  on 
the  table,  and  is  tlie  foundation  of  almost  all 
our  sauces,  we  have. 

Melted  butter  and  oystere, 

parsley, 

anchovies, 

eggs, 

shrimps, 

lobsters, 

—  capers,  &c.  &c.  &c. 

I  have  tried  every  way  of  making  it;  and  I 
trust,  diat  I  have  written  a  receipt,  (3) 
which,  if  die  cook  will  carefully  observe, 
she  will  constantly  succeed  in  giving  satis- 
faction. Ill  the  (juantities  of  the  various 
sauces  I  have  ordered,  I  have  had  in  view 
the  providing  for  a  family  of  half  a  dozen 
moderate  jxjople.  Never  pour  sauce  o\  cr  meat 
or  even  put  it  into  the  dish;  however  well 
made,  some  of  tlie  company  may  have  an 
antipathy  to  it;  tastes  are  as  different  as 
faces:  moreover,  if  it  is  sent  up  separate  in  a 
boat,  it  will  keep  hot  longer,  and  what  is  left 
may  be  put  l>y  for  anodier  time,  or  used  for 
anodier  purjjose. 

BUTTER,  MELTED.  (3)  Keep  a  pint 
stewpan ;  for  this  pur|)ose  only.  Cut  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  little  bits,  that  it  may 
melt  more  easily,  and  mix  more  readily;  put 
it  into  die  stewpan  with  a  large  tea-spoon- 
ful (i.  e.  about  three  drachms)  of  flour, 
(some  prefer  arrow-root,  or  potato  search) 


CAB 


31 


CAKE 


and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  milk.  When 
thoroughly  mixed,  add  six  table-spoonfuls 
of  water ;  hold  it  over  the  fire,  and  shake  it 
round  every  minute  (all  the  while  the  same 
•way),  till  it  just  begins  to  simmer;  then  let 
it  stand  quietly  and  boil  up.  It  should  be  of 
the  tliickness  of  good  cream.  N.  B. — Two 
lable-spoonfuls  of  mushroom  catchup,  instead 
of  the  milk,  will  make  as  good  niashroom 
sauce  as  need  be,  and  is  a  superlative  accom- 
paniment to  eithei-  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl. 
Obs. — This  is  the  best  way  of  preparing 
melted  butter;  milk  mixes  with  the  butter 
much  more  easily  and  more  intimately  than 
water  alone  can  be  made  to  do.  This  is 
of  proper  thickness  to  be  mixed  at  table 
with  flavouring  essences,  anchovy,  nnish- 
room,  or  cavice,  &c.  If  made  merely  to 
pour  over  vegetables,  add  a  little  more  milk 
to  it.  N.  B. — If  the  butter  oils,  i)ut  a 
spoonful  of  cold  water  to  it,  and  stir  it  with 
a  spoon ;  if  it  is  veiy  much  oiled,  it  must 
be  poured  backwards  and  forwards  fi-om 
tlie  stewpan  to  the  sauceboat  till  it  is  right 
again.  Mem. — Melted  butter  made  to  te 
mixed  with  flavouring  essences,  catchups, 
&c.  should  be  of  the  thickness  of  light  bat- 
ter, that  it  may  adlierc  to  the  fish,  &c. 

BUTTER,  OILED.  Put  two  ounces  of 
firesh  butter  into  a  saucepan ;  set  it  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  fire,  so  that  it  may  melt  grad- 
ually, till  it  comes  to  an  oil ;  and  poiu*  it  off 
quietly  from  the  dregs.  06s. — This  will 
supply  the  place  of  olive  oil ;  and  by  some  is 
preferred  to  it  either  for  salads  or  frying. 

BUTTER  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 


C. 


CABBAGE  AND  CHEESE  SOUP. 
See  Soup. 

CABBAGE,  TO  STEW.  Wash  a  cab- 
bage well,  sli«;e  it  as  for  pickling,  and  pul  it 
into  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  tea-cnpful  of 
Port  wine,  and  a  bit  of  butter  kneaded  in 
flour,  a  little  salt  and  pepper;  stir  it  till  the 
butter  is  melted ;  cover  tlie  pan,  and  let  it  stew 
a  little,  but  not  to  become  too  soft ;  as  it  eats 
better  rather  crisp ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
vinegar,  give  it  one  boil,  and  serve  it  hot. 
The  wine  may  be  omitted. 

CABBAGE,  TO  PICKLE.  Choose  two 
middling-sized,  well-colored,  and  firm  red 
cabbages,  shred  them  very  finely,  first  pulling 
oflf  ti»e  outside  leaves ;  mix  with  them  nearly 
half  a  pound  of  salt,  tie  it  up  in  a  thin  cloth, 
and  let  it  hang  for  twelve  hours ;  then  put  it 
into  small  jars,  and  pour  over  it  cold  vinegar 


that  has  been  boiled  widi  a  few  barberries  m 
it ;  tie  the  jar  over  closely  with  bladder ;  or 
boil,  in  a  quart  of  vinegar,  tliree  bits  of  gin- 
ger, lialf  an  ounce  of  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  cloves.  When  cold,  pour  it  ovar 
the  red  cabbage. 

CAKES.  Preparatory  remarks. 
The  cm-rants  and  raisins  should  be  prepared 
as  directed  under  the  article  headed.  Pud- 
dings and  Pies,  and  the  flour  dried  before 
the  fire  on  a  large  sheet  of  white  paper,  then 
sifted  and  weighed.  Almonds  sliould  be 
blanched  by  pouring  hot  water  over  them, 
and,  after  standing  some  minutes,  taking  off 
the  skin,  then  throwing  them  into  rose  or 
cold  water.  When  not  pounded,  they  should 
lie  cut  lengthwise  into  tliin  bits.  Sugar 
sliould  be  roughly  pounded,  rolled  widi  a 
bottle  upf)n  white  paper,  and  then  sifted.  All 
spices,  after  being  well  dried  at  the  fire,  should 
be  finely  pounded  and  sifted.  Lemon  and 
orange-peel  must  be  pared  very  tliin,  and 
pounded  with  a  little  sugar.  The  butter, 
after  being  weighed,  should  be  laid  into  cold 
water,  or  washed  in  rose  water,  and  if  salt, 
be  well  washed  in  several  waters.  The 
yolks  and  whites  of  eggs  should  be  separately 
and  long  beaten,  then  strained;  two  whiska 
should  be  kept  exclusively  for  that  pur- 
pose, as  the  whites  especially  require  to  be 
managed  with  the  greatest  care.  A  horn 
spoon  should  be  used  for  mixing  those  cakes 
which  are  not  directed  to  be  beaten  with  tlie 
hand.  To  make  cakes  light,  salvolatile,  or 
smelling  salts,  may  be  added  immediately 
before  putting  them  into  the  oven,  allowing, 
to  a  sponge  cake,  made  of  one  pound  of  flour, 
one  tea-spoonful ;  and  two  or  three  to  a  large 
plum  cake.  Cheese  cakes,  queen  cakeg, 
sponge  biscuits,  and  small  sponge  cakes,  re- 
quire a  quick  oven  till  they  have  risen ;  after- 
wards the  heat  shouki  be  more  modei-ate. 
Plum,  seed  cakes,  and  all  large  kinds,  must  be 
well  soaked,  and  therefore  do  not  recjuire  a 
brisk  oven.  To  preserve  their  color,  a  sheet  of 
white  paper  is  put  over  them,  and  after  they 
ha\e  risen  and  become  firm,  they  ai'e  turned 
round.  To  ascertain  if  a  large  cake  be 
siiifi(^iently  done,  a  broad  bladed  knife  is 
plunged  into  the  centre  of  it,  and  if  dry  and 
clean  when  drawn  out,  the  cake  is  baked ; 
but  if  anything  adheres  to  the  blade,  it  must 
instantly  be  returned  to  the  oven,  and  thq 
door  closed.  When  the  oven  is  too  hot,  it 
is  better  to  lessen  tiie  fire  than  to  open  the 
door. 

CAKE.  Take  two  pounds  and  a  half  of 
dried  and  sifted  flour,  die  same  of  well  clean- 
ed and  dried  currants,  two  pounds  of  fresh 
butter,  two  of  finely-pounded  and  sifted  loaf 
sugar,  a  nutmeg  giated,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
pouncied  cinnamon,  one  ounce  of  citron  and 


CAKE 


32 


CAKE 


candied  orange-peel,  cut  small,  the  yolks  of 
sixteen,  and  the  whites  of  ten  eggs,  beaten 
separately;  then  with  the  hand  beat  the 
butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  sugai-,  tlien 
the  eggs  by  degrees,  and  the  flour  in  tlie 
same  way,  and  then  the  currants,  sweetmeats, 
and  spice,  one  glass  of  oi^ange-flower  water, 
and  one  of  brandy.  Butler  a  tin  pan,  line  it 
with  white  paper  buttered,  put  in  die  cake, 
and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  four  hours. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  Blanch  half  a  pound 
of  sweet,  and  three  ounces  of  bitter  almonds ; 
pound  them  to  a  paste  in  a  mortal'  witii 
orange-flower  water ;  add  lialf  a  pound  of 
sifted  loaf  sugjir,  and  a  little  brandy;  whisk 
separately,  for  half  an  hour,  tlie  whites  and 
yolks  of  twenty  eggs,  add  the  yolks  to  tlie 
almonds  and  sugar,  and  tlicn  stir  in  tlie  whites, 
and  beat  them  all  well  together.  Butter  a 
tin  pan,  sift  bread  raspings  over  it,  put  the 
cake  into  it,  over  the  top  of  which  strew  sifted 
loaf  sugar.  Bake  it  in  a  quick  oven  for 
half  or  tliree-fjuarters  of  an  hour. 

CAKES,   ALMOND   SMALL.       One 

pound  of  butter  beaten  to  a  cream,  half  a 
pound  of  finely-pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
half  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  blanched  sweet  almonds 
cut  into  thin  small  bits,  one  well-l)eaten  egg, 
and  a  little  rose  water,  must  be  mixed  well 
together,  and  with  a  spoon  dropped  upon 
wafer  paper  or  tias,  and  then  baked. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  (1)  Take  eight 
ounces  of  Jordan  and  one  ounce  of  bitter  al- 
monds, blanch  and  pound  tliem  vei-y  fine ; 
tlien  beat  in  with  die  almonds  die  yolks  of 
eight  eggs,  and  whisk  up  the  whites  to  a 
solid  frodi.  Then  take  eight  table-spoonfuls 
of  sifted  sugar,  five  spoonfuls  of  fine  flour,  a 
small  cjuantity  of  grated  lemon-peel  and 
pounded  cinnamon,  and  mix  all  tlie  ingre- 
dients. Rub  the  inside  of  a  mould  with 
fresh  butter,  fill  it  with  tiie  mixture  and  hnke 
it  of  a  light  color. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  (2)  Put  a  gill  of 
floiu-  upon  a  pie-board,  and  make  a  hole 
in  the  middle  to  receive  a  piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  ftii  egg,  a  little  salt,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fine  sugar,  and  six  ounces  of  sweet 
almonds  pounded  veiy  fine :  knead  die  whole, 
and  form  it  into  a  cake ;  bake,  and  glaze  it 
with  sugar  and  a  hot  salamander. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  (3)  Weigh  tiiree 
eggs  in  their  shells,  take  tlie  same  weight  of 
flour,  of  the  finest  fresh  butter,  and  of  grated 
loaf  sugar.  Pound  with  these  ingredients 
three  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  blanched ;  add 
a  little  grated  lemon-jieel,  or  orange-flower 
water,  and  die  whites  and  yolks  of  tiiree 


[  eggs.  Continue  pounding  till  the  whole 
forms  a  smooth  paste.  Butter  Uie  bottom 
of  a  baking-pan,  and  put  in  the  cake  with 
fii-e  above  and  below.  This  cake  may  be 
served  eidier  hot  or  cold,  with  grated  sugar 
over  it. 

CAKES,  ANISEED.  Put  in  an  earthen 
pan  eight  ounces  of  sugar  pounded,  and 
the  yolks  often  eggs ;  stir  them  togetuer  with 
a  wooden  spoon  for  half  an  hour.  In  the 
meantime  have  the  whites  of  your  eggs 
whipped  to  a  diick  snow,  and  then  pour  in 
the  sugar  and  yolks.  When  thur<jughly 
mixed,  add  an  ounce  of  good  aniseed,  pre- 
viously washed  and  dried,  and  ten  ounces  of 
flour ;  stir  die  whole  gently,  and  then  with  a 
spoon  lay  it  on  white  paper  in  cakes  about 
die  size  of  a  crown-piece ;  sprinkle  them  with 
fine  sugar,  and  bake.  Remove  them  from 
die  paper,  while  hot,  with  a  knife. 

CAKE,  APPLE.  Pare  and  core  a  doz- 
en apples,  and  make  diem  into  marmalade, 
with  the  zeste  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon, and  pass  diem  through  a  bolting;  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of 
potato  flour,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  two 
ounces  of  butter ;  diy  it  over  the  fire,  and 
when  cold  add  to  it  six  eggs,  stir  them  well 
in,  and  having  buttered  a  mould,  pour  your 
preparation  into  it,  and  bake  it  in  a  slow 
oven;  when  done,  turn  it  in  a  dish  and 
serve  it. 

CAKE,  ABERDEEN  CRULLA.  Beat 
to  a  cream  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flesh  butter, 
and  mix  with  it  die  same  quantity  of  pound- 
ed and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  four  well-beaten 
eggs ;  add  flour  till  diick  enough  to  roll  out ; 
cut  the  paste  into  oblong  pieces  alx)ut  four 
or  five  inches  in  lengdi ;  with  a  jjaste  cutter, 
divide  the  centre  into  three  or  four  strips; 
wet  the  edges,  and  plait  one  bar  over  the 
other,  80  as  to  meet  in  die  centre ;  dirow 
them  into  boiling  lard,  or  clarified  suet; 
when  fried  of  a  light  brown,  drain  them 
before  the  fire,  and  serve  diem  in  a  najikin, 
with  or  without  grated  loaf  sug-ar  strewed 
over  diem. 

CAKE,  BANBURY.  Set  a  sponge  with 
two  table-spoonftils  of  thick  yeast,  a  gill  of 
warm  milk,  and  a  pound  of  flour ;  when  it 
has  worked  a  little,  mix  with  it  half  a  pound 
of  currants,  washed  and  picked,  half  a 
pound  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut 
small,  one  ounce  of  spice,  such  as  ground 
cinnamon,  allspice,  ginger,  and  grated  nut- 
meg: mix  the  whole  togedier  Vvith  half  a 
})ound  of  honey ;  roll  out  puff"  paste  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into  rounds  with  ai 
cutter,  about  four  inches  over,  lay  on  each 
widi  a  spoon  a  sm^ill  quantity  of  die  mixture;.! 


CAKE 


33 


CAKE 


close  it  round  with  the  fingers  in  the  form 
of  an  oval ;  place  the  join  underneath ;  press 
it  flat  with  the  hand ;  sift  sugar  over  it,  and 
bake  them  on  a  plate  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

CAKES,  BATH  BREAKFAST.  Rub 
into  two  pounds  of  flour  half  a  pound  of  but- 
ter, and  mix  with  it  one  pint  of  milk  a  little 
warmed,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  fi-esh  yeast, 
four  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt ;  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand  before  the  fire 
to  rise  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  make 
it  into  thick  cakes  about  the  size  of  the 
inside  of  a  dinner  plate ;  bake  them  in  a 
quick  oven,  then  cut  them  into  three,  that 
the  middle  slice,  as  also  the  top  and  bottom 
may  be  well  buttered.     Serve  them  very  hot. 

CAKE,  BAIRN  BRACK.  To  three 
pounds  of  dried  flour  allow  one  pound  of 
firesh  butter,  one  pound  of  good  brown  sugar, 
two  ounces  of  caraway  seeds,  eight  well- 
beaten  eggs,  three  table-spoonfiils  of  fresh 
yeast,  and  some  grated  nutmeg ;  dissolve  the 
butter  in  a  pint  of  milk,  so  as  to  make  tlie 
whole  into  a  dough,  not  very  stiff";  work  it 
well ;  cover  it  with  a  cloth,  and  set  it  before 
the  fire  to  rise ;  when  well  risen,  bake  it  in 
a  buttered  tin.  When  it  becomes  dry,  it 
may  be  toasted  and  eaten  with  butter. 

,  CAKES,  BONNET.  BoU  in  half  a 
pint  of  water,  for  ten  minutes,  a  bit  of  cin- 
namon, and  of  lemon-peel ;  strain,  and  mix  it 
with  tlu-ee  table-spoonflils  of  flour,  and  stir 
it  over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes ;  add 
a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wakut ;  when 
cold,  mix  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
little  salt  and  pepper ;  beat  it  well,  drop  a 
dessert-spoonfiil  of  the  mixture  into  boiling 
lard,  tlien  drain  tliem  upon  tlie  back  of  a 
sieve,  and  when  served,  throw  over  pounded 
loaf  sugar.  Instead  of  the  salt  and  pepper,  a 
littJe  preserve  may  be  drooped  upon  each, 
before  die  sugar  is  tlu-own  over. 

CAKE,  BABA.  Take  the  fourth  part  of 
two  pounds  of  flour,  lay  it  on  your  paste- 
board or  slab,  and  having  made  a  hole  in 
the  middle  of  it,  put  in  half  an  ounce  of 
yeast,  work  it  up  with  one  hand,  whilst  with 
the  otlier  you  pour  in  warm  water ;  make  it 
into  a  rather  soft  paste,  put  into  a  wooden 
bowl,  first  pricking  it  in  a  few  places,  cover 
it  with  a  cloth  and  let  it  stand.  When  it 
has  risen  well,  take  the  remainder  of  the 
flour,  and  spread  it  on  the  fiist  made  paste ; 
mix  them  well  together,  adding  to  them 
half  an  ounce  of  salt,  six  eggs,  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  half  a  pound  of  stoned  raisins, 
two  ounces  of  currants,  half  a  glass  of  Mal- 
Bsa.  wine,  and  a  little  saffron  in  powder. 
Work  them  up  together  thoroughly,  roll  it 
out  two  or  three  times,  and  then  let  it  stand 


for  six  hours;  then  having  buttered  a  mould} 
pour  in  your  preparation  and  bake  it. 

CAKE,  BOLAR.  One  pound  of  flour 
dried  in  a  slow  oven,  two  spoonfiils  of  yeast, 
some  ahnond  milk,  and  water  to  mix  for  a 
sponge ;  when  raised,  beat  up  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  clarified  butter,  three  eggs,  and 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  well-beat- 
en till  the  spoon  comes  clean  away ;  then 
add  cinnamon  powder,  candied  orange  and 
lemon.  Bake  in  earthen  basins,  well  but- 
tered ;  keep  it  before  the  fire  till  put  in  the 
oven. 

CAKE,  BOLAR.  When  tlie  sponge  is 
beat,  as  for  the  last,  instead  of  mixing  the 
sugar,  it  is  rolled  in  the  sugai'  and  cinnamon. 

CAKE,  DUTCH  BOLAR.  Done,  as 
above,  without  sugar ;  then  prick  holes  with 
a  sharp  pointed  knife,  and  while  it  is  hot 
pour  in  tlire^quarters  of  a  pound  of  clarified 
sugar,  flavored  with  cinnamon  or  orange- 
flower.  Almonds  and  sweetmeats  are  pre- 
viously put  in  the  cake.  Ornament  your 
cake  with  harlequin  sugar-plums.  This  wa» 
a  fevorite  cake  of  Queen  Charlotte. 

CAKE,  BREAD.  Take  the  quantity 
of  a  quartern  loaf  fi-om  the  dough  when  mak- 
ing white  bread,  and  knead  well  into  it  two 
ounces  of  butter,  two  of  Lisbon  sugar,  and 
eight  of  currants.  Warm  the  butter  in  a 
tea-cupful  of  good  milk.  By  the  addition 
of  an  ounce  of  batter,  or  sugar,  or  an  egg  or 
two,  you  may  make  the  cake  better.  A 
tea-cupfiil  of  raw  cream  improves  it  much.. 
It  is  best  to  bake  it  in  a  pan,  rather  than  as- 
a  loaf,  die  outside  being  less  hard. 

CAKE,  BRIDE.  Take  four  pounds  of 
fine  flour  well  di'ied,  four  pounds  of  fresh 
butter,  two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,,  pwunded 
and  sifted  fine,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
mace,  and  the  same  quantity  of  nutmegs ; 
to  every  pound  of  flour  put  eight  eggs ;  wash 
and  pick  four  jwunds  of  cuiTants,  and  dry 
them  before  the  fii*e;  blanch  a  pound  of 
sweet  almonds,  and  cut  them  lengdiways, 
very  thin,  a  pound  of  citron,  a  pound  of 
candied  orange,  a  pound  of  candied  lemon, 
and  half  a  pint  of  brandy ;  &st  work  the 
butter  with  your  hand  to  a*  cream,  then 
beat  in  your  sugar  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
beat  the  whites  of  your  eggs  to  a  very  strong 
froth ;  mix  them  with  yoiur  sugar  and  but- 
ter ;  beat  the  yolks  half  an  hour,  at  least, 
and  mix  tiiem  with  your  cake ;  then  put  in 
your  flour,  mace,  and  nutm^;  keep  beating 
It  till  the  oven  is  i-eady ;  put  in  your  brandy, 
and  beat  the  currants  and  almonds  lightly 
in ;  tie  Uiree  sheets  of  paper  round  the  bot- 
tom of  your  hoops  to  keep  it  fi'om  running 


CAKE 


34 


CAKE 


out ;  rub  it  well  with  butter,  put  in  your 
cake,  and  the  sweetmeats  in  tliree  lays,  with 
cake  Ijetween  every  lay;  after  it  is  risen 
and  colored,  cover  it  with  paper  before  your 
oven  is  stopped  up ;  it  will  take  tlu-ee  hours 
baking. 

CAKE,  BRIE.  Take  some  rich  cheese, 
knead  it  with  a  pint  and  half  of  flour,  three 
quartere  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  a  little 
salt ;  moisten  it  with  five  or  six  eggs  beaten 
up;  when  it  is  well  kneaded,  let  it  stand 
for  an  hour ;  tlien  form  your  cake  and  bake 
as  usual. 

CAKES,  BENTON-TEA.  Rub  into 
a  pound  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  butter,  and 
three  sjwonfuls  of  yeast,  and  make  into  a 
paste  with  new  milk;  make  into  biscuits, 
and  prick  them  with  a  clean  fork. 

CAKES,  BUTTER.  Beat  a  dish  of 
butter  with  your  hands  to  a  cream,  add  two 
pounds  of  sifted  sugar,  tliree  pounds  of  dried 
flour,  and  twenty-four  eggs,  leave  out  half 
the  whites,  and  then  l)eat  all  together  for  an 
hour;  when  you  are  going  to  put  it  in  the 
oven  add  a  qudrter  of  an  ounce  of  mace  and 
a  nutmeg,  a  little  sack  and  brandy,  seeds 
and  currants,  if  you  think  proper. 

CAKE,  WITHOUT  BUTTER.  Talte 
the  weight  of  three  eggs  in  sugar,  and  the 
weight  of  two  in  flour;  whentlie  five  eggs  are 
well  beaten,  gradually  add  the  sugai-,  and 
then  the  flour,  with  a  little  grated  lemon- 
peel,  or  a  few  caraway  seeds.  Bake  it  in 
a  tin  mould,  in  rather  a  quick  oven. 

CAKES,  CHESHIRE.  Beat  for  half 
an  hour  tlie  yolks  of  eight,  and  the  whites 
of  five  eggs ;  add  half  a  pound  of  ix)unded 
and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  and  the  grated 
peel  of  a  small  lemon ;  beat  all  well  togeth- 
er, and  bake  it  in  a  floured  tin. 

•CAKES,  CARAWAY.  (1)  Tliree 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
butter  well  rubbed  into  it,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  some  caraway 
seeds ;  make  tliese  into  a  stiff"  paste  widi  a 
little  cold  water,  roll  it  out  two  or  thi-ee 
times,  cut  it  Into  round  cakes,  prick  them, 
and  bake  them  upon  floured  tins.  For  a 
change,  currants  may  be  substituted  for  the 
caraway  seeds. 

CAKES,  CARAWAY.  (2)  Mix  half 
a  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar  with  a  pound 
of  flour  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
add  some  caraway  seeds ;  make  it  into  a 
stiff"  paste,  with  three  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
a  litOe  rose  water;  roll  it  out  thin,  cut  it 


into  round  cakes,  prick  them  with  a  fork, 
and  bake  them  upon  floured  tins  in  a  quick 
oven. 

CAKES,  CURD  CHEESE.  Boil,  in 
two  quarts  of  cream,  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  four,  and  the  whites  of  five  eggs ;  di'ain 
oft"  tlie  whey  gently,  and  mix  wiUi  tlie  curd 
grated  nutmeg,  pounded  cinnamon,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  best  rose  water,  as  much 
white  wine,  four  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  su- 
gar, tlie  same  quantity  of  butter  beaten  to  a 
cream,  and  of  pounded  biscuit.  Mix  aU 
these  ingredients  well  together,  and  stir  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants.  Bake  it 
in  a  large  tm,  or  in  patty-pans  lined  with 
paste;  or  it  may  be  baked  m  a  dish  previ- 
ously buttered. 

CAKES,  CURRANT.  (1)  Take 
two  pounds  of  fine  flour,  one  pound  and  a 
half  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  five  or  six  eggs, 
one  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  six  spoonfiils 
of  white  wine,  tiiree  spoonfuls  of  caraway 
seeds,  two  nutmegs,  and  one  pound  of  cur- 
rants ;  beat  up  the  butter  wiUi  your  hand 
till  it  is  veiy  thin ;  diy  tlie  flour  well ;  put  in 
the  caraway  seeds,  and  nutmegs,  finely  grat- 
ed ;  afterwards  put  tiiem  all  into  your  bat- 
ter, widi  the  eggs,  white  wine,  and  rose 
water;  mingle  them  well  together;  put  in 
tlie  currants ;  let  your  oven  be  pretty  hot, 
and  as  soon  as  tliey  are  colored  they  will  be 
sufficiently  done. 

CAKES,  CURRANT.  (2)  Take  half  a 
pound  of  cleaned  and  dried  currants,  the 
same  quantity  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  sugar,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fi-esh  butter,  four 
yolks,  and  three  whites  of  eggs,  both  well 
beaten,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  or  pound- 
ed cinnamon;  then  beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream ;  add  the  sugar,  and  Uien  the  eggs 
and  the  flour;  beat  these  well  for  twenty 
minutes,  mij^  in  the  currants  and  the  grated 
nutmeg.  Drop  the  cakes  in  a  round  form 
upon  buttered  paper,  or  bake  them  in  small 
tins  in  a  quick  oven. 

CAKES,  CURRANT.  (3)  Take  six 
ounces  of  currants,  the  same  quantity  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour ;  rub  the 
butter  with  the  flour  till  they  be  well  mixed, 
then  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  bind 
tliem  with  three  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  ro^  or  orange- 
flower  water;  roll  it  out,  and  cut  it  into 
round  cakes  with  the  top  of  a  wme  glass  or 
a  tin. 

CAKE,  COMMON.     (1)    Take  two 


CAKE 


35 


CAKE 


quarts  of  flour,  mix  with  it  tliree-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  tea-cupful  of  fresh 
yeast,  one  pint  of  milk,  nine  well-beaten 
eggs,  two  pounds  of  well-cleaned  currants, 
one  pound  and  a  half  of  good  brown  sugar, 
the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  one  nutmeg ; 
a  glass  of  brandy  must  be  stirred  in  just  be- 
fore it  be  put  into  a  buttered  tin.  Bake  it 
for  two  hours  or  more. 

CAKE,  COMMON.  (2)  Rub  into  one 
pound  of  flour  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
good  Ixitter;  mix,  with  two  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast,  as 
much  warm  milk  as  will  make  tlie  flour  into 
a  very  thick  batter.  Let  this  remain  near 
the  fire,  covered  with  a  cloth  for  an  hour, 
tlien  mix  into  it  six  ounces  of  good  brown 
sugar,  and  nine  ounces  of  well-cleaned  and 
dried  currants ;  let  it  stand  again  for  half 
an  hour,  and  bake  it  in  a  buttered  tin  for 
an  hour. 

CAKE,  COxMMON.  (3)  One  pound  and 
a  half  of  flour,  one  pound  of  good  brown  su- 
gar, eight  well-beaten  eggs,  and  one  ounce 
of  caraway  seeds,  are  to  be  mixed  together; 
then  add  of  fresh  yeast,  milk,  and  of  water, 
one  table-spoonful  each.  Let  it  stand  a  lit- 
tle time,  and  bake  it  in  a  floured  tin. 

CAKES,  COLD  HARBOR.  Dissolve 
one  ounce  of  butter  in  as  much  milk  warmed 
as  will  make  four  pounds  of  flour  into  a  stiff" 
paste;  about  two  pints  may  be  required; 
add  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  one  egg 
beaten  togetlier  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
yeast;  mix  it  all  well,  cover  it  with  a 
clotli,  and  let  it  remain  before  the  fii-e  for 
half  an  hour;  then  make  it  into  small 
round  balls,  and  bake  them  upon  tins  in  a 
quick  oven. 

CAKES,  CREAM.  (1)  Put  a  pound  of 
flour  upon  a  pie-board ;  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle,  put  in  half  a  pint  of  clotted  cream, 
and  a  little  salt ;  mix  the  paste  lightly,  let 
it  stand  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  butter ;  roll  it  out,  five  times,  the 
same  as  puff  paste,  and  form  it  into  small 
cakes ;  gild  them  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  and 
balve  in  an  oven. 

CAKES,  CREAM.  (2)  Sift  some 
double-refined  sugar;  beat  the  whites  of 
seven  or  eight  eggs;  shake  in  as  many 
spoonfuls  of  the  sugar;  grate  in  the  rind  of 
a  large  lemon ;  drop  the  froth  on  a  paper, 
laid  on  tin,  in  lumps  at  a  distance;  sift  a 
good  deal  of  sugar  over  them ;  set  tliem  in  a 
moderate  oven;  the  froth  will  rise;  just 
color  them;  you  may  put  raspberry  jam, 
and  stick  two  bottoms  together ;  put  them 
in  a  cool  oven  to  di'y . 


CAKES,  CREAM.  (3)  Put  into  a 
stewpan,  two  glasses  of  cream,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  the  rind  of  a  lemony  cut 
small,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Set  it  on  the  fire,  and 
when  it  begins  to  boil,  put  it  by  the  side  of 
the  stove ;  take  out  tlie  lemon-peel,  and  add, 
by  degrees,  as  much  flour  as  tlie  liquid  will 
bear ;  keep  stirring  it  constantly,  and  place 
it  on  die  fire  again,  for  five  minutes,  tlien 
pour  it  into  a  basin  ;  add  to  it,  one  by  one, 
as  many  eggs  as  will  make  the  paste  stick 
to  the  fingers  ;  put  the  paste  on  a  slab,  and 
make  your  cakes  of  a  round  form. 

CAKES,  CANAPES.  Roll  out  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  puff"  paste,  keeping  it 
long  and  narrow ;  do  not  let  it  be  more  than 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  about  three 
inches  wide.  Cut  the  paste  across  with  a 
sharp  knife,  in  slips  three-eights  of  an  inch 
in  width,  and  place  them  on  the  cut  side,  on 
a  baking-plate,  each  two  inches  apart ;  bake 
them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  when  nicely  colored, 
sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  glaze  them. 
When  done,  remove  them  from  the  plate; 
and  just  before  they  are  served,  mask  them 
with  apricot  marmalade,  or  any  other  you 

like  better,  and  an'ange  tiiem  on  your 

en  couronne. 


may 
dish 


CAKES,  CURD.  Take  a  quart  of 
curds,  eight  eggs,  leaving  out  foiu-  w  hites ; 
put  in  sugar,  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  little 
flour;  mix  these  well  togetner,  heat  butter, 
in  a  frying-pan,  drop  them  in,  and  fiy  like 
fritters. 

CAKES,  DERBY  OR  SHORT.     Rub 

in  with  the  hand  one  pound  of  butter  into 
two  poiuids  of  sifted  flour;  put  one  pound 
of  currants,  one  pound  of  good  moist  sugar, 
and  one  egg;  mix  all  together  widi  half 
a  pint  of  milk:  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut  them 
into  round  cakes  with  a  cutter ;  lay  them  on 
a  clean  baking-plate,  and  put  tliem  into  a 
middling-heated  oven  for  about  five  minutes. 

CAKE,  DIET  BREAD.  Boil,  in  half 
a  pint  of  water,  one  pound  and  a  half  of 
lump  sugar ;  have  ready  one  pint  of  eggs, 
tlu-ee  paits  yolks,  in  a  pan ;  pour  in  die  su- 
gar, and  whisk  it  quick  till  cold,  or  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour;  dien  stu*  in  two 
pounds  of  sifl;ed  flour;  case  the  inside  of 
square  tins  with  white  paper ;  fill  them  three 
parts  full ;  sift  a  little  sugar  over,  and  bake 
it  in  a  warm  oven,  and  while  hot  remove 
tliem  from  the  moulds. 

CAKE,  DAtJPHINE.  Beat  separate- 
ly the  whites  and  yolks  of  twenty  eggs ;  to 
the  yolks  add  a  pound  of  pounded  and  sifl«d 
loaf  sugar,  the  gi-ated  peel  of  one  lemon,  and 


CAKE 


36 


CAKE 


two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
water ;  then  stir  in  the  whites,  and  lightly 
mix  in  half  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour. 
Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CAKE,  FASHION.  Mix  a  handful  of 
flour  with  a  pint  of  good  cream,  half  a  pound 
of  beef  suet,  melted  and  sifted,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  half  a  pwund  of 
raisins,  stoned  and  chopped,  dried  flowers  of 
orange,  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little  coriander, 
and  salt ;  bake  it  as  all  otl)er  cakes,  about  an 
houi-,  and  glare  or  gai-nish  it. 

CAKE,  FOURRES.  Make  a  puff  paste, 
form  it  into  two  equal  parts  the  size  of  the 
dish  in  which  you  mean  to  place  your  cake, 
and  the  thickness  of  two  crowns  each;  then 
take  one  of  the  cakes  and  put  upon  it  some 
sweetmeats,  leaving  about  an  inch,  as  a 
border,  all  round;  wet  it  with  water  and 
place  the  otlier  cake  upon  it,  draw  up  the 
edges  carefully  with  your  fingers ;  gild  them 
with  the  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  tliem  in  an 
oven. 

CAKE,  FRENCH.  Twelve  eggs,  the 
yolks  and  whites  beaten  well  and  separately, 
one  pound  of  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
the  grated  peel  of  a  large  lemon,  half  a  pound 
of  sifted  and  dried  flour,  the  same  weight  of 
sifted  and  dried  ground  rice,  four  ounces  of 
sweet,  and  one  of  bitter  almonds,  pounded  in 
a  mortar  together,  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
orange-flower  water.  Mix  all  these  ingre- 
dients gradually,  and  beat  them  well.  Pa- 
per the  pan,  and  bake  the  cake  for  one  hour. 

CAKE,  FAMILY.  Take  rice  and 
flour,  of  each  six  ounces,  tiie  yolks  and 
whites  of  nine  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  lump 
sugar,  poimded  and  sifted,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  caraway  seeds.  Having  beaten  tliis  one 
hour,  Ijake  it  for  the  same  time  in  a  quick 
oven.  This  is  a  very  light  cake,  and  is  ve- 
ry proper  for  young  people  and  delicate 
stomachs. 

CAKES,  RICH  GINGERBREAD.  To 

0ne  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  allow 
half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  diree- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  washed  in 
rose  water,  one  pound  of  treacle,  one  nutmeg 
grated,  the  weight  of  a  nuimeg  of  pounded 
mace,  and  as  much  of  pounded  cinnamon, 
one  ounce  of  pounded  ginger,  one  and  a  half 
of  candied  oi-ange  and  lemon-peel,  cut  small, 
half  an  ounce  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  cut 
it  into  long  thin  bits,  and  two  well-beaten 
eggs.  Melt  the  butter  with  the  treacle,  and 
wben  nearly  cold,  stir  in  the  eggs  and  the 
rest  of  the  mgi-edients ;  mix  all  well  together, 
make  it  into  round  cakes,  and  bake  them 
upon  tins. 


CAKE,  GINGERBREAD.  Take  two 
pounds  of  treacle,  two  and  a  quarter  of  flour, 
of  brown  sugar  and  fresh  butter  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  each,  four  ounces  of  cai-away 
seeds,  die  same  quantity  of  candied  orange- 
peel  cut  small,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  j^earl  ashes ;  beat  the  butter 
to  a  cream,  and  mix  it  with  the  r^t  of  the 
ingredients.  The  next  day  work  it  well  up, 
and  bake  it  in  a  buttered  tin. 

CAKE,  GLOVE.  With  flour  make  into 
a  paste  tliick  enough  to  roll  out,  tlie  beaten 
yolks  often  eggs,  five  table-spoonfiils  of  rich 
sweet  cream,  a  little  sugar,  and  some  carda- 
mons ;  cut  it  into  fanciful  forms  with  small 
tins,  and  tlirow  diem  into  fresh  boiling  lard 
or  butter ;  when  of  a  light  brown  color,  drain 
them  before  the  fire.  If  fried  in  butter,  add 
a  litde  water  to  the  butter,  and  make  it  boil- 
ing hot. 

CAKES,  GIRDLE.  Rub  three  ojinces 
of  fresh  butter  into  one  pound  of  flour,  with 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ;  moisten  with  a 
sufficiency  of  sweet  butter-milk  to  make  it 
into  a  paste ;  roll  it  out,  and  cut  it  into  cakes 
witli  a  cup  or  tumbler,  and  bake  them  upon 
a  girdle. 

CAKES,  HONEY.  One  pound  and  a 
half  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  Uiree-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  honey,  half  a  pound  of  finely 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
citron,  and  half  an  ounce  of  oraiige-jjeel  cut 
small,  of  pounded  ginger  and  cinnamon,  tlu-ee 
cjuaiters  of  an  ounce.  Melt  the  sugar  with 
the  honey,  and  mix  in  theoUier  ingredients; 
roll  out  the  paste,  and  cut  it  into  small  cakes 
of  any  form. 

CAKES,  HEART.  WiUi  your  hand 
work  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream,  then  put 
to  it  twelve  eggs,  with  only  six  of  the  whites 
well-beaten,  a  pound  of  dried  flour,  a  pound 
of  sifted  sugar,  four  spoonfuls  of  good  bi-andy, 
and  a  pound  of  currants  washed  and  dried 
Ijefore  the  fire.  As  the  pans  are  filled,  put 
in  two  ounces  of  candied  orange  and  citron, 
and  continue  beating  the  cake  till  you  put  it 
into  the  oven.  This  quantity  will  be  suffi- 
cient to  fill  tln-ee  dozen  of  middling  sized 
pans. 

CAKES,  IRISH  SEED.  Beat  to  a 
cream  eight  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  rose  water,  putting  in  a 
table-spoonful  of  rose  water  at  a  time;  by 
degiees,  mix  into  it  a  pound  of  sifted  loaf 
sugar,  and  then  nine  well-ljcaten  eggs;  add 
twelve  ounces  of  flour,  and  diree  of  flour  of 
rice  dried  and  sifted,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  blanciied  and  pounded  sweet  or  bitter  al- 
monds, a  tea-spoonfiU  of  essence  of  lemon. 


CAKE 


37 


CAKE 


and  one  ounce  of  caraway  seeds ;  beat  all 
these  well  together;  bake  it  in  a  cake  tin, 
which  must  be  buttered  and  lined  vvitli  paper, 
also  buttered.  It  will  re(|uire  alx»ut  one  hour 
and  a  half  to  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  It  may 
be  made  without  the  almonds  or  tlie  essence 
of  lemon. 

CAKES ,  LITTLE.  To  a  pound  of  flour 
dried,  add  a  pound  of  lump  sugar  rolled  veiy 
line,  tlie  peel  of  two  lemons  cho|)ped  small, 
and  five  ounces  of  butter ;  mix  tiiem  thor- 
oughly ;  let  it  stand  sometime  before  the  fire, 
then  add  three  eggs  well  teaten,  the  whites 
separately,  pick  tliem  with  a  fork  into  small 
lumpS)  and  bake  them  on  a  tin:  diis  quanti- 
ty will  make  about  eighty  cakes.  Instead 
of  lemon-peel  you  may,  if  you  please,  add 
sixty  bitter  almonds  blanched  and  beaten 
with  white  of  egg  until  tliey  are  quite  fine. 

CAKES,  MANON.  Form  some  puff 
paste  into  an  under-crust  and  cover  some 
baking-plates  widi  it ;  then  spread  all  over 
them  some  frangipane,  or  marmalade,  of 
whatever  sort  you  please ;  add  some  sweet- 
meat, and  then  cover  widi  a  very  Uiin  crust ; 
gild  and  ornament  them,  dien  put  them  in 
the  oven ;  when  they  are  three  parts  done, 
sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  glaze.  When 
they  are  glazed  put  tliem  to  finish  baking  in 
a  more  gentle  oven,  and  when  done  take 
them  out  of  die  tins,  and  serve  diem  either 
hot  or  cold. 

CAKES,  MONTROSE.  Of  dried  and 
sifted  flour,  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
and  of  fresh  butter,  one  pound  each  will  be 
required,  also  twelve  well-beaten  eggs,  diiee 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  cleaned  and  dried 
currants ;  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  with  the 
sugar ;  add  the  eggs  by  degrees,  and  then  the 
flour  and  currants,  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  brandy,  one  of  rose  water,  and  half  a 
grated  nutmeg;  beat  all  well  together  for 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  when  it  is  to  be 
put  into  small  buttered  tins,  half  filling  them, 
and  baking  them  in  a  quick  oven.  The 
currants  may  be  omitted. 

CAKES,  MEAT.     See  Meat. 

CAKES,  NUNS.  Take  four  pounds  of 
veiy  fine  flour,  and  mix  with  it  diree  pounds 
of  double-refined  sugar,  finely  beat  and  sifted ; 
dry  diem  by  the  fire  till  your  other  materials 
are  prepared;  take  four  pounds  of  butter, 
beat  it  in  your  hands  till  it  is  very  soft  like 
cream ;  beat  thirty-four  eggs,  leave  out  six- 
teen whites  and  take  out  the  treads  from  all ; 
beat  the  eggs  and  butter  togedier  till  it  ap- 
pears like  butter,  pour  in  four  or  five 
spoonfuls  of  rose  or  orange-flower  water,  and 
beat  it  again;  then  take  yom*  flour  and  sugar 
4 


with  six  ounces  of  caraway  seeds ;  strew  k 
in  by  degrees,  beating  it  up  all  die  white, 
for  two  hours  together ;  put  in  as  much  tinc- 
ture of  cinnamon,  or  ambergris,  as  you 
please;  butter  your  hoop,  and  let  it  stand 
three  hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CAKES,  NUNS'  BEADS.  Pound  in  a 
mortar  four  ounces  of  good  cheese,  with  a 
little  salt,  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and 
some  crumbs  of  bread ;  roll  them  as  large  as 
walnuts,  cover  them  with  puff"  paste,  and  firy 
diem  in  butter  a  light  brown  color.  Serve 
them  in  a  napkin. 

CAKES,  OATMEAI..  One  only  should 
be  made  at  a  time,  as  the  mixture  dries 
quickly.  Put  two  or  three  handfiils  of  meal 
into  a  bowl,  and  moisten  it  with  water 
merely  sufficient  to  form  it  into  a  cake; 
knead  it  out  round  and  round  with  the  hands 
upon  the  paste-board,  strewing  meal  under 
and  over  it ;  it  may  be  made  as  thin  as  a 
wafer,  or  diicker,  according  to  taste,  and 
put  it  on  a  hot  iron  plate,  called  a  girdle. 
Bake  it  till  it  be  a  light  brown  on  die  under 
side,  then  take  it  oflf,  and  toast  that  side 
before  the  fire  which  was  uppermost  on  the 
girdle.  The  toaster  is  such  as  is  conunonly 
used  for  heating  smoothing  irons,  having  a 
back  to  support  the  cake.  To  make  these 
cakes  soft,  they  must  not  be  toasted  before 
the  fire,  but  bodi  sides  done  quickly  on  the 
girdle. 

CAKE,  PLUM.  Three  pounds  of  flour, 
three  pounds  of  currants,  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  almonds,  blanched  and  beat  grossly, 
about  half  an  ounce  of  them  bitter,  four 
ounces  of  sugar,  seven  yolks  and  six  whites 
of  eggs,  one  pint  of  cream,  two  pounds  of 
butter,  half  a  pint  of  good  ale  yeast ;  mix  the 
eggs  and  the  yeast  together,  strain  them ;  set 
die  cream  on  the  fire,  melt  the  butter  in  it ; 
stir  in  the  ahnonds,  and  half  a  pint  of  sack, 
part  of  which  should  be  put  to  the  almonds 
while  beating ;  mix  together  the  flour,  cur- 
rants and  sugar,  what  nutmegs,  cloves  and 
mace  are  liked:  stir  these  to  the  cream:  'pit 
in  the  yeast. 

CAKES,  POTATO  CHEESE.  (1) 
Boil  and  peel  half  a  pound  of  good  potatoes, 
bruise  them  in  a  mortar,  and  when  nearly 
cold  drop  in  die  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg 
at  intervals,  until  four  have  been  added, 
beating  the  potatoes  well  all  die  time ;  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  bread 
crumbs,  and  put  in  two  more  eggs.  Beat 
to  a  cream  six  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  with 
the  same  quantity  of  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
put  it  into  the  mortar,  with  die  grated  peel 
of  one  lemon,  and  mix  all  thoroughly.  Line 
the  patty-pans  widi  paste,  fill  them  three 


CAKE 


38 


CAKE 


parts  full,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  |  sugar  over  them ;  tliey  are  soon  baked.    They 
oven.  may  be  done  in  a  Dutch  oven. 


CAKES,  POTATO  CHEESE.  (2) 
Pound  in  a  mortar  five  ounces  of  potatoes 
with  four  of  fresh  butter,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  grated  peel 
and  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  three  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy ;  mix 
aU  well  together,  and  bake  as  before  di- 
rected. 

CAKES,  PARIJAMENT.  Put  into  a 
sauce  pan  two  poiuids  of  treacle,  and  when 
it  boils,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
and  pour  it  upon  two  pounds  of  flour;  add  a 
little  alum,  and  a  bit  of  pearlash  about  the 
size  of  a  nut,  and  an  ounce  of  ginger.  Work 
it  well  with  the  hand  till  quite  smooth ;  let 
it  stand  a  day  and  a  night,  then  roll  it  out 
vei-y  thin,  and  cut  it  into  oblong  cakes. 

CAKE,  POUND.  (1)  Take  one  pound 
of  dried  and  sifted  (lour,  the  same  quantity 
of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  of  fresh  butter  wash- 
ed in  rose  water ;  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
twelve,  and  the  whites  of  six  eggs ;  then 
with  the  hand  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream, 
by  degrees  add  the  sugar,  then  the  eggs  and 
the  flour;  beat  it  all  well  together  tor  an 
hour.  Bake  it  in  a  tin  pan  buttered,  or  in 
small  ones  in  a  quick  oven. 

CAKE,  POUND.  (2)  Take  of  dried 
and  sifted  flour,  sifted  loaf  sugar,  fresh  but- 
ter, cleaned  and  dried  currants,  one  pound 
each,  and  twelve  eggs ;  then  whisk  the  yolks 
and  whites  of  the  eggs  separately,  while 
another  with  the  hand  beats  the  butler  to  a 
cream ;  and  as  the  frodi  rises  upon  the  eggs 
add  it  to  the  butter,  and  continue  so  domg 
till  it  is  all  beaten  in;  mix  the  flour  and 
sugar  togetlier,  and  add  them  by  degrees; 
tlie  last  thing,  mix  in  the  currants,  together 
with  a  glass  of  brandy.  It  will  require  to 
be  beaten  during  a  whole  hour.  Bake  it  in 
a  buttered  tin. 

CAKE,  POUND.  (3)  To  a  pound  of 
sifted  sugar,  add  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and 
mix  them  with  the  hand  ten  minutes ;  put  to 
them  nine  yolks  and  five  whites  of  eggs  well- 
beaten  ;  whisk  all  well,  and  add  a  pound  of 
sifted  flour,  a  few  caraway  seeds,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  candied  orange-peel  cut  into 
slices,  a  few  currants  washed  and  picked, 
and  mix  all  together  as  light  as  possible. 

CAKE,  QUEEN.  Beat  one  pound  of 
butter  to  a  cream,  with  some  rose  water, 
one  pound  of  flour  dried,  one  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  twelve  eggs ;  beat  all  well  together ; 
add  a  few  currants  washed  and  dried ;  butter 
small  pans  of  a  size  for  tlie  purpose,  grate 


CAKE,  ROYAL.  Put  a  very  little  lemon- 
peel,  shred  fine,  into  a  stewpan,  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  a  small  pinch  of  salt,  a 
piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg,  a  glass 
of  water,  and  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  flour; 
stir  over  the  fire  till  the  paste  becomes  thick, 
and  begins  to  adhere  to  the  stewpan ;  then 
take  it  off,  put  in  an  egg,  and  stir  it  in  the 
I  paste  till  it  is  well  mixed;  continue  to  add 
one  egg  at  a  time,  till  the  paste  softens  with- 
out becoming  liquid;  then  put  in  some 
dried  orange  flowers,  and  two  bitter  almond 
biscuits,  the  whole  slu'ed  fine;  make  the 
paste  into  little  cakes,  about  the  size  roimd 
of  a  half-crown ;  put  them  on  buttered  paper, 
gild  them  witli  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beat  up, 
and  bake  half  an  hour  in  an  oven  moderately 
hot. 

CAKE,  RICH.  To  two  pounds  and  a 
half  of  dried  and  sifted  flour  allow  the  same 
quantity  of  fresh  butter  washed  with  rose- 
water,  two  pounds  of  finely-pounded  loaf 
sugar,  three  pounds  of  cleaned  and  dried 
currants,  one  nutmeg  grated,  half  a  pound 
of  sweetmeats  cut  small,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  blanched  almonds  pounded  with  a 
little  rose-water,  and  twenty  eggs,  the  yolks 
and  whites  separately  beaten.  The  butter 
must  be  beaten  with  tlie  hand  till  it  become 
like  cream;  then  add  the  sugar,  and  by 
degrees  the  eggs,  after  these  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  mixing  in  at  last  the  currants, 
with  a  tea-cupful  of  brandy,  and  nearly  as 
much  orange-flower  water.  This  mixture 
must  be  beaten  t(jgether  rather  more  than 
an  hour,  then  put  into  a  cakepan,  which  has 
previously  been  buttered  and  lined  with  but- 
tered paper ;  fill  it  rather  more  than  three- 
quarters  full.  It  should  be  baked  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  three  hours,  and  then 
cooled  gradually,  by  at  fust  letting  it  stand 
sometime  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  oven. 

CAKE,  RICE.  (1)  Whisk  ten  eggs  for 
half  an  hour,  add  to  them  half  a  pound  of  flour 
of  rine,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  and  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  and  the  grated  peel  of  two  lemons; 
mix  this  into  half  a  pound  of  fresli  butter, 
previously  beaten  to  a  cream.  Bake  the 
cake  in  a  buttered  tin. 

CAKE,  RICE.  (2)  Take  six  ounces  of 
ground  rice,  six  ounces  of  flour,  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  sifted,  nine  eggs, 
the  yolks  arid  whites  beaten  separately ;  mix 
all  well  togedier,  grate  in  tlie  rind  of  a  lemon, 
and  beat  it  well  half  an  hour. 

CAKES,  LITTLE  RICE.  Whisk  well 
six  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs ;  tlien  with 


CAKE 


39 


CAKE 


a  horn  spoon  beat  in  six  ounces  of  finely- 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  add  eight  ounces  of  sift- 
ed ground  rice,  and  two  tuble-spoonfuis  of 
orange-flower  or  rose  water,  or  die  gialed 
peel  of  a  lemon,  and  just  before  the  mixture 
IS  to  be  put  into  tlie  tins,  stir  into  it  six 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  melted ;  dust  tlie  patty 
pans  with  flour,  or  rub  them  with  butter ; 
let  tliem  be  half  filled,  and  bake  die  calces 
in  a  quick  oven. 

CAKES,  SMALL  RpUT.  Rub  into 
one  pound  of  di'ied  and  sifted  flour,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  six  ounces  of  pounded  and 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  the  yollis  of  two  \vell- 
beaten  eggs ;  mix  tliem  all  into  a  paste  with 
a  little  rosewater ;  divide  tiie  quantity,  put 
a  few  dried  cmrants  or  caraway  seeds  into 
one  half;  roll  out  tlie  paste,  cut  it  into  small 
round  cakes,  and  bake  tliem  upon  buttered 
tins. 

CAKE  RICE,  A  SWEET  dish.  Wash 
well  and  drain  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice. 
Boil  with  a  quart  of  fi-esh  cream  tlie  peel  of 
one  lemon,  and  when  nearly  cold  take  it  out 
and  put  in  the  rice;  place  the  sauce  pan  over 
a  slow  fire,  and  when  the  rice  has  swollen, 
add  a  little  salt,  and  sweeten  widi  pounded 
loaf  sugar;  when  the  rice  is  quite  tender,  add 
the  yoUts  of  eight  eggs,  and  mix  in  gradually 
the  beaten  whites,  with  a  good  bit  of  firesli 
butter,  and  p^ur  it  into  a  mould ;  tui-n  tliis 
round,  that  die  butter  may  equally  cover 
every  part  of  it,  then  pour  out  the  butter,  and 
strew  over  the  inside  a  layer  of  grated  bread ; 
with  a  paste  brush  or  a  slip  of  paper,  sprinkle 
all  over  it  some  of  the  clarified  butter,  add 
more  grated  bread,  pour  in  die  rice,  and 
bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour. 
Turn  it  out  upon  a  dish,  and  serve  it  with 
or  vvidiout  a  garnishing  of  preserved  rasp- 
berries, cherries,  or  currants. 

CAKES,  SPANISH.  Rub,  till  quite 
fine  and  smootii,  one  pound  of  butter  with 
two  pounds  of  flour,  then  add  a  pound  of 
good  brown  sugar,  rolled  fine;  mix  all  to- 
gether with  four  well-beaten  eggs;  break 
the  paste  into  small  bits  or  knobs,  and  bake 
them  upon  floured  tins. 

CAKES,  SHREWSBURY.  Take  a 
pound  of  buttfer,  and  put  it  in  a  little  flat 
pan,  rub  it  till  it  is  as  fine  as  cream,  then 
take  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a  little 
cinnamon  and  mace  pounded,  and  four  eggs, 
yolks  and  whites  together ;  beat  them  widi 
your  hand  till  it  is  very  light ;  then  take  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour,  work  it 
together,  and  roll  it  on  your  dresser,  to  what 
size  you  like,  only  very  flat,  let  your  oven  be 
rather  slow,  and  let  them  change  dieir  color, 
tlien  take  them  out. 


CAKE,  SPONGE.  (1)  Weigh  ten  eggs, 
and  tlieir  weight  in  very  fine  sugar,  and  that 
of  six  in  flour ;  beat  the  yolks  with  die  flour, 
and  the  whites  alone,  to  a  very  stiff  froth; 
dien  by  degrees  mix  the  whites  and  the  flour 
with  the  other  ingredients,  and  beat  them 
well  haU"  an  hour.  Bake  m  a  quick  oveu  an 
hour. 

CAKE,  SPONGE.   (2)   Take  die  juice 

and  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  twelve  eggs, 
twelve  ounces  of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar, 
the  same  of  dried  and  sifted  flour;  then  widi 
a  horn  spoon  beat  die  yolks  of  ten  eggs,  add 
the  sugar  by  degrees,  and  beat  it  till  it  will 
stand  when  dropped  from  die  spoon ;  put  in 
at  separate  times  die  two  other  eggs,  yolks 
and  whites ;  whisk  the  ten  whites  for  eight 
minutes,  and  mix  in  the  lemon-juice,  and 
when  quite  stiff,  take  as  much  as  the  whisk 
will  lift,  and  put  it  upon  the  yolks  and  sugar, 
which  must  be  beaten  all  die  time ;  mix  in 
lightly  the  flour  and  grated  peel,  and  pour  it 
all  gradually  over  the  whites ;  stir  it  together, 
and  bake  it  in  a  buttered  tin,  or  in  small 
tins ;  do  not  more  than  half  fill  them. 

CAKES,  SHORT.  Dissolve  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter  in  as  much  milk  ai 
will  make  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  into 
a  paste,  roll  it  out  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  diick,  and  cut  it  into  large  round  cakes. 
Do  them  in  a  fiying-pan,  and  serve  them  hot. 
They  are  eaten  widi  butter. 

CAKES,  SALLY  LUNN.  Take  one 
pint  of  milk  quite  warm,  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  thick  small-beer  yeast ;  put  them  into  a  pan 
with  flour  sufficient  to  make  it  as  thick  as 
batter, — cover  it  over,  and  let  it  stand  till  it 
has  risen  as  high  as  it  will,  t.  e.  about  two 
hours :  add  two  ounces  of  lump  sugai",  dis- 
solved in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  warm  milk, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  iiibbed  into 
your  flour  very  fine ;  then  make  your  dough 
the  same  as  for  French  rofls,  &c. ;  and  kt 
it  stand  half  an  hour;  then  make  up  yoor 
cakes,  and  put  diem  on  tins :  when  diey  have 
stood  to  rise,  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 
Care  should  be  taken  never  to  put  your 
yeast  to  water  or  milk  too  hot,  or  too  cold,  as 
eidier  extreme  will  destroy  the  fermentation. 
In  summer  it  should  be  lukewarm,  in  winter 
a  little  warmer,  and  in  very  cold  weather, 
wanner  still.  When  it  has  first  risen,  if  you 
are  not  prepared,  it  will  not  hurt  to  stand  an 
horn*. 

CAKES,  SUGAR.  Take  half  a  pound 
of  dried  flour,  die  same  quantity  of  fi-eeh 
butter  washed  in  rose  water,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar ;  then  mix 
together  die  flour  and  sugar :  rub  in  the  but- 
ter, and  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  with 


CAKE 


40 


CALF 


a  table-spoonful  of  cream ;  make  it  into  a 
paste,  roll,  and  cut  it  into  small  round  cakes, 
which  bake  upon  a  floured  tin. 

CAKES,  TEA.  With  a  pound  of  flour 
rub  half  a  pound  of  butter ;  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two,  and  the  white  of  one  egg,  a 
quairter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
and  a  few  caraway  seeds ;  mix  it  to  a  paste 
with  a  little  warm  milk,  cover  it  with  a 
cbth,  and  let  it  stand  before  the  fire  for 
nearly  an  hour ;  roll  out  the  paste,  and  cut  it 
into  round  cakes  with  the  top  of  a  glass,  and 
bake  them  upon  floured  tins. 

CAKE,  TWELFTH.  Two  pounds  of 
sifled  flour,  two  pounds  of  sifted  loaf  su- 
gar, two  pounds  of  butter,  eighteen  eggs, 
toui'  pounds  of  ciu-rants,  one  half  pound  of 
sdmonds  blanched  and  chopiied,  one  half  pound 
of  citron,  one  pound  of  candied  orange  and 
lonon  peel  cut  into  thin  slices,  a  large  nut- 
meg grated,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  allspice ; 
ground  cinnamon,  mace,  ginger,  and  corian- 
ders,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  each,  and  a 
gill  of  brandy.  Put  the  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  in  a  warm  place,  and  work  it  into  a 
wnootli  cream  with  tlie  hand,  and  mix  it 
with  the  sugar  and  spice  in  a  pan,  (or  on 
your  paste  board)  for  sometime ;  then  break 
in  the  eggs  by  degrees,  and  beat  it  at  least 
twenty  minutes ;  stir  in  the  brandy,  and  then 
the  flour,  and  work  it  a  little ;  add  the  fruit, 
sweetmeats,  and  almonds,  and  mix  all  to- 
gether lightly ;  have  ready  a  hoop  cased  with 
paper,  on  a  baking-plate ;  put  in  the  mixture, 
smooth  it  on  the  top  with  your  hand,  dipped 
in  milk ;  put  the  plate  on  another,  widi  saw 
dust  between,  to  prevent  the  bottom  from 
coloring  too  muchr  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven 
£oiar  hours  or  more,  and  when  nearly  cold, 
ice  it  with  icing.  This  mixture  would  make 
a  handsome  cake,  foil  twelve  or  fourteen 
inches  over. 

CAKE,  WHITE.  Take  of  diied  and 
sifted  flour ,of  fresh  butter  and  of  finely-pound- 
ed loaf  sugar,  one  pound  each ;  five  well-beaten 
eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  of  candied 
orange  and  lemon  peel,  cut  small,  three  quar- 
ters of  an  ounce  each ;  one  ounce  of  cara- 
way seeds,  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  a  glass  of 
brandy,  and  a  little  rose  water ;  then  beat 
the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  all  the  other 
ingi'edients  to  it,  and  at  the  last  mix  in  one  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  fi-esh  yeast ;  let  the  cake  rise 
before  tlie  fire  for  half  an  hour.  Bake  it  in 
a  buttered  tin.  Instantly  u}X)n  taking  it 
out  of  the  oven,  with  a  feather,  brush  the 
top  all  over  with  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg, 
and  then  sift  loaf  sugar  upon  it.  Let  it 
'  at  the  mouth  of  the  oven  to  harden. 


CAKES,  YEAST.    Take  a  pound  of 


flour,  two  pounds  of  currants,  washed  and 
picked,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Lisbon  sugar,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  citron  and  candied  orange- 
peel  cut  into  slices,  cinnamon  and  mace,  a 
small  quantity  of  each  pounded  and  sifted. 
Make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  ingredients, 
put  in  a  gill  of  sweet  wine,  a  little  warm 
milk,  mix  all  together,  fill  a  hoop  with  it, 
let  it  remain  till  it  rises,  and  bake  it. 

CAKES,  YORKSHIRE.  Take  two 
pounds  of  flour,  and  mix  with  it  four  ounces 
of  butter,  melted  in  a  pint  of  good  milk, 
three  spoonfiils  of  yeast,  and  two  eggs ;  beat 
all  well  together,  and  let  it  rise ;  then  knead 
it,  and  make  it  into  cakes ;  let  them  rise  on 
tins  before  you  bake,  which  do  in  a  slow 
oven.  Another  sort  is  made  as  above,  leav- 
ing out  the  butter.  The  fiist  is  shorter,  the 
last  lighter. 

CAKE,  BISCUIT.  One  pound  of  flour, 
five  eggs  well-beaten  and  sti-ained,  eight 
ounces  of  sugar,  a  little  rose  or  orange-flower 
water,  beat  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  bake 
it  for  one  hour. 

CALF'S  BRAINS,  with  Oysters. 
Blanch  and  clean  tlie  brains,  then  wipe  them 
diy,  dip  them  into  yolks  of  eggs,  and  roll 
tliem  in  bread  crumbs ;  fry  them  in  boiling 
lard  till  of  a  good  color,  dnlln  them  very 
dry,  and  serve  with  oysters,  stewed  either 
white  or  brown.  Garnish  with  broiled  ham 
cut  in  small  round  pieces. 

CALF'S  BRAINS.  Cleanse  two  calves' 
brains,  and  stew  diem  in  stock  witli  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, scallions,  a  clove  of  garlic,  three 
cloves,  thyme,  laurel,  and  basil ;  when  suifi- 
ciently  stewed,  cut  each  piece  of  the  brain 
in  two,  dip  them  in  a  batter  made  of  two 
handfuls  of  flour,  diluted  with  a  little  oil,  half 
a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  salt.  Fry  them  in 
lard  until  the  batter  is  crisp  and  the  brains 
of  a  gold  color. 

CALF'S  BRAINS,  with  fried  par- 
sley. Blanch  three  or  four  brains  of 
nearly  an  equal  size;  parlwil  tliem,  and 
take  ofi"  the  skin ;  tlien  boil  them  in  water, 
with  a  little  salt,  vinegar  and  butter.  Serve 
them  with  a  sauce  made  of  a  little  browned 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  some  salt 
and  pepper,  and  some  parsley  fried  very 
green. 

CALF'S  CHITTERLINGS.  Cut  them 
open  with  scissors,  wash  and  cleanse  them 
thoroughly,  lay  them  for  a  night  into  salt- 
and-water,  then  wash  them  well,  parboil, 
and  cut  theui  into  small  pieces,  dip  ti;em  in-* 


CALF 


41 


CALF 


to  a  thick  batter,  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  little  white  wine.  Fiy  them  of 
a  light  brown  color  in  beef  drip[)iiig ;  serve 
with  a  fringe  of  fried  parsley.  Or,  After 
being  parboiled,  they  may  be  roasted,  when 
they  must  be  constantly  basted  with  butter, 
dredged  with  flour  to  froth  them  nicely; 
then  served  with  melted  butter-,  and  lemon 
pickle  poured  over  them.  Or,  They  may 
be  baked — when,  after  being  parboiled,  they 
are  rubbed  over  with  butter,  and  put  into 
the  oven  on  an  iron  frame,  which  is  placed 
in  a  deep  dish.  This  oblong  frame  of 
white  iron,  about  two  inches  high,  will  be 
found  useful  in  baking  ever}  kind  of  meat. 

CALF'S  CHAUDRON,  FRICASSEE. 

Parboil  a  calf's  chaudron,  and  when  cold, 
cut  it  in  pieces  about  as  big  as  walnuts; 
season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  cloves, 
mace,  an  onion,  tarragon,  and  parsley,  shred 
fine ;  fry  them  iu  a  ladleful  of  good  broth 
and  fresh  butter;  make  a  sauce  of  mutton 
gravy,  orange  and  lemon  juice,  eggs'  yolks, 
and  grated  nutmeg;  toss  up  tliese  ingredi- 
ents with  the  chaudron,  then  dish  it  and 
serve. 

CALF'S-FEET  PUDDING.  See  Pud- 
dings. 

CALF'S  FEET  JELLY.     See  Jelly. 

CALF'S  FEET,  POTTED.  Boil  tlie 
feet  as  for  jelly,  pick  all  the  meat  from  tlie 
bones,  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  little 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  garlic,  a  shallot 
and  some  shred  ham;  simmer  it  for  half  an 
hour,  dip  a  mould  into  water,  put  in  a  lay- 
er of  the  meat,  then  some  neatly-cut  pickled 
beet  root,  and  some  boiled  minced  parsley, 
then  a  layei-  of  meat,  and  so  on,  till  the 
mould  be  filled;  when  cold,  turn  it  out. 
Garnish  widi  pickled  eggs,  beet  root,  and 
pai-sley. 

CALF'S  FEET,  PLAIN.  Scald,  clean, 
and  blanch  some  calves'  feet,  boil  them  till 
the  bones  will  come  out,  then  stew  them  in 
a  blanc.  See  Calf's  Head,  plain.  When 
done,  drain  and  serve  them  with  parsley 
and  butter. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  HASHED.  Boil  the 
head  almost  enough,  and  take  die  meat  of 
the  best  side  neatly  from  tlie  bone,  and  lay 
it  in  a  small  dish;  wash  it  over  with  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  cover  it  with  crumbs, 
a  few  herbs  nicely  shred,  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
and  nutmeg,  all  mixed  togedier  previously. 
Set  the  dish  before  the  fire,  and  keep  tuin- 
ing  it  now  and  dien,  that  all  parts  may  be 
equally  brown.  In  the  meantime  slice  the 
remainder  of  the  head,  and  the  tongue, 
4* 


i  (peeled);  put  a  pint  of  good  gravy  into  a 
pan,  widi  an  onion,  a  small  bunch  of  herbs, 
I  (consisting  of  parsley,  basil,  savory,  tarra- 
!  gon,  knotted  marjoram,  and  a  little  thyme), 
j  a  little  salt  and  Cayenne,  a  shallot,  a  glass 
i  of  Sherry,  and  a  little  oyster  liquor:  boil  this 
:  for  a  few  minutes,  and  strain  it  upon  the 
I  meat,  which  must  be  sprinkled  with  flour. 
j  Add  some  fresh  or  pickled  mushrooms,  a 
few  truflles  and  morels,  and  two  spoonfuls  of 
:  catchup;  beat  up  half  the  brains,  and  put 
I  them  to  die  rest,  with  a  bit  of  butter  and 
:  (lour.  Simmer  th6  whole.  Beat  the  other 
i  part  of  the  brains  widi  shied  lemon-peel,  a 
j  little  nutmeg  and  mace,  some  parsley  shred, 
!  and  an  egg ;  fry  this  in  little  cali.es  of  a  fine 
j  gold  color;  dip  some  oysters  into  die  yolk 
■  of  an  egg,  and  fry  die  same  way,  also  some 
I  good  forcemeat  balls,  and  garnish  the  dish 
widi  diem. 

i      CALF'S  HEAD  SOUP,   OR  MOCK 
:  TURTLt.     See  Soups. 

CALF'S  HEAD.  Widi  a  sharp  knife 
cut  all  the  meat  entire  fiom  die  bone,  cut 
out  the  tongue,  and  carefully  take  out  the 
brains ;  lay  diem  all  in  cold  water  for  two  or 
I  three  hours.  Mince  veiy  small  two  pounds 
I  of  lean  veal,  and  one  pound  of  beef  suet, 
with  the  grated  crumb  of  a  penny  loaf, 
some  sweet  herbs,  grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg, 
pepper,  and  salt ;  mix  them  well  together,  and 
bind  it  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  up; 
reserve  as  much  of  the  forcemeat  as  will 
make  twenty  small  balls:  wash  the  head 
clean,  wipe  it  dry,  and  put  the  forcemeat  in- 
to the  inside;  close  it,  and  tie  it  firmly  with 
tape ;  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two  quarts 
of  gravy,  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  cover  it  closely,  and 
let  it  stew  gently ;  boil  die  tongue,  cut  it  in- 
to thin  slices,  mince  die  brains  widi  a  little 
paisley  and  a  tiible-spoonful  of  flour,  add 
some  pepper,  salt,  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
nutmeg;  beat  two  eggs  and  mix  with  the 
brains,  drop  it  vvitli  a  spoon  in  small  cakes 
into  a  pan  of  boiling  dripping,  and  firy 
dieni  of  a  light  brown  color.  Fry  the  force- 
meat balls,  and  drain  them,  widi  die  cakes, 
upon  the  back  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire ; 
when  the  head  has  stewed  till  it  be  suffic- 
iently tender,  put  it  into  a  dish  and  take  off 
the  tape,  strain  the  gravy,  and  diicken  it 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  of  rice,  and  a 
little  bit  of  butter ;  if  not  well  seasoned,  add 
more  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  the  tongue, 
make  it  all  hot,  and  pour  it  over  the  head. 
Garnish  with  the  brain-cakes,  forcemeat 
balls,  and  cut  lemon. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  ROASTED.     Wash 

and    clean    it    well,    parboil  it,   take   out 
die  bones,  brains,  and  tongue ;    make  force- 


CAhf 


4^ 


CALF 


meat  sufficient  for  the  head,  and  some 
balls  with  bread  crumbs,  minced  suet,  pars- 
ley, grated  ham,  and  a  little  pounded  veal, 
or  cold  fowl ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel;  bind  it  with  an 
egg,  beaten  up,  fill  the  head  with  it,  which 
must  then  be  sewed  up,  or  fastened  ^vith 
skewers  and  tied.  While  roasting,  baste  it 
well  with  butter ;  beat  up  the  brains  with  a 
little  cream,  the  yolli  of  an  egg,  some  minc- 
ed parsley,  a  little  pepj^er  and  salt;  blanch 
the  tongue,  citt  it  into  slices,  and  fry  it 
with  the  brains,  forcemeat  balls,  and  thin 
slices  of  bacon.  Serve  the  head  with  white 
or  bro\vn  thickened  gravy,  and  place  tlie 
tongue,  forcemeat  balls,  and  brains  round  it. 
Garnish  with  cut  lemon.  It  will  require 
one  hour  and  a  half  to  roast. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  PLAIN.  Clean  a 
calf's  head  nicely,  and  cut  out  the  bone  of 
the  lower  jaw,  and  of  the  nose,  taking  out 
the  nose  lx)ne  as  close  to  the  eyes  as  possi- 
ble ;  wash  the  head  well  in  warm  water, 
and  let  it  blanch  in  some  clean  water.  Pre- 
pare a  blanc,  or  sauce,  as  follows: — One 
pound  of  beef  suet,  and  one  pound  of  fat 
bacon,  cut  small,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  thyme,  two  or 
three  bay  leaves,  one  or  two  onions,  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon ;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
mace,  cloves,  and  allspice;  boil  all  this  an 
hour  in  six  pints  of  water,  then  tie  up  the 
head  in  a  cloth,  boil  it  in  the  sauce  about 
tln-ee  hours,  and  drain  it;  take  out  the 
tongue,  skin  and  replace  it;  serve  quite 
hot,  with  the  following  sauce — minced  shal- 
lots, parsley,  the  brains  minced,  some  vine- 
gar, salt,  and  pepper. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  SOUSED.  Scald 
and  bone  a  calf's  head,  and  soak  it  for  sev- 
en or  eight  hours,  changing  the  water  twice ; 
dry  it  well.  Season  with  salt  and  bruised 
garlic;  roll  it  up,  bind  it  very  tight,  and 
boil  it  in  white  wine,  salt  and  water;  when 
done,  put  it,  with  the  liquor,  in  a  pan,  and 
keep  it  for  use.  Sen'e  up  either  whole,  or 
in  slices,  with  oil,  vinegar,  and  pepper. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  BIGAREE.  Clean 
and  blanch  a  calf's  head,  boil  it  till  the 
bones  will  come  out  easily,  then  bone  and 
press  it  between  two  dishes,  so  as  to  give  it 
an  oblong  form ;  beat  witli  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs  a  little  melted  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 
Divide  the  head  when  cold,  and  brush  it  all 
over  with  the  Ijeaten  eggs,  and  strew  over  it 
grated  bread ;  repeat  this  twice.  With  the 
grated  bread,  which  is  put  over  one  half,  a 

food  quantity  of  finely-minced  parsley  should 
e  mixed;  place  the  head  upon  a  dish,  and 
bake  it  of  a  nice  brown  color.  Serve  it 
with  a  sauce  of  parsley  and  butter,   and 


with  one  of  good  gravy,  mixed  with  the 
biains  which  have  been  previously  Ijoiled, 
and  chopped,  and  seasoned  with  a  little 
Cayenne  and  salt. 

CALF'S  HEART,  ROASTED.  Fill 
the  heart  with  the  following  forcemeat:  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  chopped 
small,  grated  bread,  parsley,  marjoram,  lem- 
on-peel, pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  die  yolk 
of  an  egg.  Lay  a  veal  caul,  or  a  sheet  of 
paper  on  the  stuffing  to  keep  it  in  its  place. 
Put  the  heart  into  a  Dutch  oven,  before  a 
clear  fire,  and  turn  it  frequently,  till  thor- 
oughly roasted  all  round.  Garnish  with 
slices  of  lemon,  and  pour  melted  butter  over 
it. 

CALF  LIVER,  BROILED.  Slice  it, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil  nice- 
ly: rub  a  bit  of  cold  butter  on  it,  and  serve 
hot  and  hot. 

'CALF'S  LIVER,  LARDED  AND 
ROASTED.  Lard  a  fine  calf's  liver  the 
same  as  a  fricandeau,  and  let  it  lie  for 
twenty-four  hours  in  vinegar,  with  a  sliced 
onion,  some  paisley,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay 
leaf,  some  salt  and  pepper.  Roast,  and 
baste  it  well  with  butter,  then  glaze  it  with 
a  light  glaze,  and  serve  it  with  a  poivmde, 
or  any  other  sauce. 

CALF'S    LIVER,    ROASTED.      (1) 

Wash  and  wi[)e  it ;  then  cut  a  long  hole  in  it, 
and  stuff  it  with  crumbs  of  bread,  chopped 
anchovy,  a  good  deal  of  fat  bacon,  onion,  salt, 
pepper,  a  bit  of  butter,  and  an  egg;  sew 
the  liver  up;  lard  it,  wrap  it  in  a  veal  caul, 
and  roast  it.  Serve  with  good  brown  gra- 
vy and  cui'iTint  jelly. 

CALF'S    LIVER,   ROASTED.       (2) 

Lard  a  calf's  liver  with  streaky  bacon; 
roast  and  baste  it  fietjuently  with  its  own 
gravy. 

CALF'S   LIVER,   ROASTED.       (3) 

Lard  a  fine  calf's  liver,  and  pickle  it  in 
vinegar,  with  an  onion,  cut  into  slices,  pars- 
ley, salt,  pepper,  thyme,  and  a  bay  leaf. 
When  it  has  been  s(jaked  for  twenty-foiu* 
hours,  fasten  it  Dn  a  spit,  roast  and  baste  it 
fi-equently.  Glaze  it  with  a  light  glaze,  as 
it  is  naturally  of  a  black  color.  Serve  un- 
der it  a  brown  poivrade. 

CALF'S  LIVER,  SCOLLOPS.  Par- 
boil  and  cut  into  slices  a  very  nice  calf's 
liver,  and  shape  them  into  hearts.  Stew 
some  fine  herbs,  parsley,  shallots,  and  mush- 
rooms; then  add  the  calf's  liver,  and  let  it 
stew  over  a  slow  fire ;  when  done  on  one 
side,  turn  and  season  it  with  pepper  and 


CAP 


43 


CAP 


salt;  take  out  the  liver,  dredge  in  a  little 
flour  over  the  heibs,  and  add  some  more 
gravy;  let  this  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then 
heat  the  liver  in  the  sauce  before  serving  it. 
This  may  be  eaten  at  breakfast. 

CALF'S  PLUCK.  Wash  it  very  clean, 
and,  if  liked,  stuff  the  heart  with  a  force- 
meat, made  of  crumbs  of  bread,  butter,  and 
parsley,  and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
grated  nutmeg.  Fasten  it  firmly  witli  the 
liver  and  lights,  tying  them  to  the  skewers 
while  roasting;  baste  it  well  with  butter, 
and  froth  it  the  same  way  in  which  veal  is 
done,  and  serve  it  with  melted  butter,  mix- 
ed with  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  or 
vinegar  poured  over  it. 

CAPER  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 

CAPILLAIRE.  Take  fourteen  pounds 
ef  sugar,  three  pounds  of  coarse  sugar,  six 
eggs  beat  in  with  the  shells,  three  quarts  of 
water;  boil  it  up  twice;  skim  it  well,  then 
add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  orange-flow- 
er water ;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  and 
put  it  into  IxJttles;  when  cold,  mix  a 
spoonful  or  two  of  this  sirup,  as  it  is  liked 
for  sweetness  in  a  draught  of  warm  or  cold 
water. 

CAPILOTADE   ITALIAN.       Cut  up 

a  cold  roast  fowl ;  then  take  a  good  slice 
of  butter,  and  some  shred  rauslirooms  and 
potherbs;  fry  these  till  tliey  are  about  to 
turn  brown,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour: 
then  add  to  tliem  a  large  glass  of  white 
wine.  Let  the  whole  simmer  togetlier  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour ;  next  put  in  the  pieces 
of  fowl,  and  heat  them  up  for  a  few  minutes. 
Garnish  your  dish  with  fried  slices  of  bread; 
and  just  before  you  serve,  pour  into  tlie 
saucepan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  taking 
care  that  it  does  not  boil,  and  stir  it  up  weU 
with  the  sauce. 

CAPONS  OR  FOWLS,  Mijst  be  kill- 
ed a  couple  of  days  in  moderate,  and  more 
in  cold  weather,  before  they  are  dressed,  or 
they  will  eat  tough:  a  good  criterion  of  the 
ripeness  of  jwultry  for  the  spit,  is  the  ease 
with  which  you  can  then  pull  out  the  feathers ; 
when  a  fowl  is  plucked,  leave  a  few  to  help 
you  to  ascertain  this.  They  aie  managed 
exactly  in  the  same  manner,  and  sent  up 
with  the  same  sauces  as  a  turkey,  only  they 
require  proportionably  less  time  at  the  fire. 
A  full-grown  five-toed  fowl,  about  an  hour 
and  a  quarter.  A  moderate-sized  one,  an 
hour  A  chicken,  from  thirty  to  forty  min- 
utes. Here,  also,  pork  sausages  fried  are 
in  general  a  favorite  accomj)animent,  or 
turkey  stuffing ;  see  forcemeats ;  put  in  plen- 
ty of  it,  so  as  to  plump  out  the  fowl,  which 


must  be  tied  closely  (both  at  the  neck  and 
rump),  to  keep  in  die  stuffing.  Some  cooks 
put  the  liver  of  the  fowl  into  this  forcemeat, 
and  others  mince  it  and  pound  it,  and  rub  it 
up  widi  flour  and  melted  butter.  When 
the  bird  is  stuffed  and  trussed,  score  the 
gizzard  nicely,  dip  it  into  melted  butter,  let 
it  drain,  and  then  season  it  with  Cayenne 
and  salt ;  put  it  under  one  pinion,  and  the 
liver  under  the  other ;  to  prevent  their  get- 
ting hardened  or  scorched,  comr  them  with 
double  paper  buttered.  l^pife  care  that 
your  roasted  poulti-y  be  well  browned  ;  it  is 
as  indispensable  that  roasted  poultry  should 
have  a  rich  brown  complexion,  as  boiled 
poultry  should  have  a  delicate  white  one. 

CAPON,  TO  CHOOSE.  If  it  is  young, 
his  spurs  are  short  and  his  legs  smooth ;  if^ 
a  true  capon,  a  fat  vein  on  the  side  of  his 
breast,  the  comb  pale,  and  a  thick  belly  and 
rump;  if  fresh,  he  will  have  a  close  hard 
vent ;  if  stale,  a  loose  open  vent. 

CAPON,  THE  FRENCH  WAY.  Take 
a  quart  of  white  wine,  season  the  cajx)n 
with  salt,  cloves,  and  whole  fiepper,  a  few 
shallots ;  and  then  put  the  capon  in  an  earth- 
en pan ;  you  must  take  care  it  has  not  room 
to  shake ;  it  must  be  covered  close,  and  done 
over  a  slow  charcoal  fire. 

CAPON  PASTY.  Roast  a  capon,  let 
it  be  cold,  take  the  flesh  from  the  bones  and 
slice  it,  but  keep  the  thighs  and  pinions 
whole.  Add  to  the  flesh  of  the  capon,  four 
sweetbreads  and  half  a  pint  of  oysters,  sea- 
son them  with  salt,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and 
mace,  sweet  marjoram,  pennyroyal,  and 
thyme,  minced;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  or 
paste  in  your  pasty -pan,  and  lay  the  thighs 
and  pinions  on  the  bottom,  and  strew  them 
over  with  sliced  onions,  then  put  in  the 
flesh  of  the  cajwn,  the  sweetbreads,  and  tlie 
oysters,  cut  in  halves;  over  these  sti'ew  a 
handful  of  chestnuts,  boiled  and  blanched, 
then  put  butter  over  them,  close  up  your  pan 
and  bake  it ;  when  done,  add  gravy,  good 
stock,  drawn  butter,  anchovies,  and  grated 
nutmeg ;  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and 
serve.  Turkey  may  be  done  in  the  same 
manner. 

CAPONS   A   LA   TURQUE.      Pick, 

and  clean  very  nicely,  two  fine  capons  ;  wash 
the  inside  perfectly  clean  with  warm  water, 
and  let  them  soak  in  warm  water  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour;  diy  them  well,  and  put 
into  them  some  rice  which  has  been  boiled 
till  soft  in  some  rich  well-seasoned  stock, 
truss  and  covei-  tiieni  with  layers  of  bacon, 
wrap  them  in  paper,  and  roast  diem  for  an 
hour  by  a  hanging-jack ;  serve  them,  put- 
ting all"  round  the  dish  a  part  of  die  rice 


CAR 


44 


CAR 


which  was  prepared  for  the  stuffing,  and 
pour  over  the  fowls  a  veloute  sauce.  One 
fine  large  fowl  may  be  dressed  in  this 
manner. 

CAPSICUMS,  TO  PICKLE.  Gather 
the  pods,  with  the  stalks  on,  before  they  tiu-n 
red;  cut  a  slit  down  the  side  widi  a  pen- 
knife, and  take  out  all  the  seeds,  but  as  lit- 
tle of  the  meat  as  possible ;  lay  tliem  in  a 
strong  brine,.fcr  three  days,  changing  it  eve- 

Sday;  th^|^ke  them  out,  lay  diem  on  a 
)th,  and  j&y  anotlier  over  them  till  they 
are  quite  dry ;  boil  vinegar  enough  to  cover 
tliem,  put  in  some  mace  and  nutmeg  beat 
small ;  put  the  pods  into  a  glass  or  jar,  and 
when  die  liquor  is  cold,  pour  it  over,  then 
tie  a  bladder  and  leaUier  over  them. 

CARDOONS,  WITH  CHEESE.  String 
and  cut  them  an  inch  long,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  red  wine,  seasoned  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  stew  them  till  diey  are  tender, 
put  in  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
when  of  a  proper  thickness  pour  them  into 
a  dish,  stjueeze  die  juice  of  an  orange  into 
the  sauce,  and  scrape  over  diem  some  Par- 
mesan or  Cheshire  cheese,  and  then  bvown 
them  with  a  cheese-iron,  but  not  of  too  high 
a  color. 

CARDOONS,  TO  DRESS.  Cut  them 
in  pieces  six  inches  long,  and  put  them  on  a 
string ;  boil  till  tender,  have  ready  a  piece 
of  butter  in  a  jian,  flour  and  fry  tiiem.  They 
may  also  be  tied  in  bundles,  and  served  as 
asparagus  boiled  on  a  toast,  and  pom-  but- 
ter over. 

CARDOONS,  SPANISH.  Cut  them 
into  lengdis  of  diree  inches,  be  careful  not 
to  use  those  which  are  hollow  and  green ; 
boil  them  for  half  an  hour,  then  put  them 
into  lukewarm  \\  ater  to  cleanse  them  from 
their  slime;  then  dress  them  in  some  stock, 
with  a  spoonful  of  flour,  some  salt,  onions, 
roots,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little  \'er- 
juice,  and  a  little  butter ;  when  done,  put 
diem  into  a  cull  is  with  some  stock;  cook 
them  for  an  hour  in  diis  sauce,  and  ser>'e. 

CARROTS.  Let  diem  be  well  washed 
and  brushed,  not  scraped.  An  hour  is 
enough  for  young  spring  carrots  ;  grown  car- 
rots must  be  cut  in  half,  and  will  take  from 
an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  and  a  half. 
When  done,  rub  off"  die  peels  with  a  clean 
coarse  clodi,  and  slice  diem  in  two  or  four, 
according  to  dieir  size.  The  best  way  to 
tiy  if  they  are  done  enough,  is  to  pierce  them 
with  a  fork.  Many  people  are  fond  of  colil 
carrot  with  cold  beef;  ask  if  you  shall  cocjk 
enough  for  some  to  l)e  left  to  send  «p  with 
the  cold  meat. 


CARAMEL,  OR  BOILED  SUGAR. 
Break  into  a  small  copper  or  brass  pan,  one 
pound  of  refined  sugar, — put  in  a  gill  of 
spring  water ; — set  it  on  a  fire,  and  when 
it  boils,  skim  it  quite  clean,  and  let  it  boil 
quick,  till  it  comes  to  the  degree  called 
Crack,  which  may  be  known  by  dipping  a 
teaspoon  or  skewer  into  the  sugar,  and  let 
it  drop  to  the  bottom  of  a  pan  of  cold  water; 
and  if  it  remains  hard,  it  has  attained  that 
degree;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  let  it  remain  one  minute  longer  on  the 
fire,  dien  set  the  pan  into  anotlier  of  cold 
water: — have  ready  moulds  of  any  shape, 
— rub  them  over  with  sweet  oil,  dip  a  spoon 
or  fork  into  the  sugar,  and  throw  it  over  the 
mould  in  fine  threads,  till  it  is  quite  covered: 
— make  a  small  handle  of  caramel,  or  stick 
on  two  or  three  small  gum  paste  rings,  by 
way  of  ornament,  and  place  it  over  small 
pastry  of  any  description. 

CARP,  BOILED.  Scale  and  clean  a 
brace  of  carp,  reserving  the  liver  and  roe; 
take  half  a  pint  of  vinegar,  or  a  quart  of 
sharp  cider,  add  as  much  water  as  will  cov- 
er die  flfli,  a  piece  of  horse-radish,  an  onion 
cut  into  slices,  a  litde  salt,  and  a  faggot  of 
sweet  herbs;  boil  the  fish  in  this  liquor,  and 
make  a  sauce  as  follows: — strain  some  of 
the  liquor  the  fish  has  been  boiled  in,  and 
put  to  it  the  liver  minced,  a  pint  of  Port 
wine,  two  anchovies,  two  or  three  heads  of 
shallots  chop|)ed,  some  salt  and  black  pep- 
per, a  little  Cayenne,  a  table-spoonful  of  soy; 
boil  and  strain  it,  thicken  it  with  flom*  and 
butter,  pour  it  over  the  carp  hot,  garnish 
widi  the  roe  fried,  cut  lemon  and  parsley. 

CARP,  STEWED.  Scale  and  clean 
a  brace  of  carp,  reserving  the  liver  and 
roe;  pour  over  the  fish  in  a  deep  pan  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  which  may  be  elder  vinegar,  if 
the  flavor  is  preferred,  with  a  little  mace, 
three  cloves,  some  sail  and  Jamaica  pepper, 
two  onions  sliced,  a  faggot  of  parsley,  basil, 
thyme,  and  marjoram;  let  them  soak  an 
hour,  then  put  them  in  a  stevvjjan  with  the 
vineg:ir,  and  other  diings,  the  liver  ciioppexl, 
a  pint  of  Madeira,  and  three  pints  of  veal 
stock ;  stew  (hem  an  hour  or  two  accord- 
ing to  their  size;  take  out  die  fish  and  put 
them  o\er  a  pan  of  hot  Avater  to  keep  wann 
while  the  fidlowing  sauce  is  made: — Strain 
the  liquor,  and  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
beaten,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  a  large  spoon- 
ful of  flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  stir  it  constantly,  and  just  before 
putting  it  over  the  carp,  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  a  lemon.  Boil  or  fry  the  roe. 
Plain  boiled  carp  may  Ix;  served  with  this 
sauce,  and  is  dished  in  a  napkin.  , 

CARP,   FRIED.      Qean   and   scale  a 


CAU 


45 


CHA 


carp;  split  it  up  the  back;  flatten  the  back- 
bone, sprinkle  your  fish  with  flour,  then 
sprinkle  the  roes  which  have  been  put  aside, 
put  the  whole  into  a  frying-pan  made  very 
hot,  fiy  to  a  rich  oolor,  and  serve  it  with 
lemon-juice. 

CARROT  FRITTERS.  Beat  two  or 
three  boiled  carrots  to  a  pulp  with  a  spoon ; 
add  to  tliem  six  eggs  and  a  handful  of  flour ; 
moisten  them  with  either  cream,  milk,  or 
white  wine,  and  sweeten  them.  Beat  all 
together  well,  and  fry  in  boiling  lard.  When 
of  a  good  color,  take  them  off  and  squeeze 
on  them  the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  and 
strew  over  fine  sugar. 

CARROT  PUDDING.     See  Pudding. 

CASSILE.  Mix  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
potato-flour  with  two  or  tliree  of  cream  or 
good  milk;  boil  for  a  few  minutes  with  a 
quart  of  cream  or  milk,  the  peel  of  a  lemon 
and  a  bit  of  cinnamon  ;  stir  it  with  the  flour 
and  cream ;  sweeten,  and  stir  it  again  over 
the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes ;  pour  it  in- 
to a  mould  ;  turn  it  out  when  cold. 

CAULIFLOWER.  Choose  those  that 
are  close  and  white,  and  of  the  middle  size ; 
trim  off  the  outside  leaves ;  cut  the  stalk  off 
flat  at  the  bottom ;  let  them  lie  in  salt  and 
water  an  hour  before  you  boil  them.  Put 
them  into  boiling  water  with  a  handful  of 
salt  in  it ;  skim  it  well,  and  let  it  boil  slow- 
ly till  done,  which  a  small  one  will  be  in  fif- 
teen, a  large  one  in  about  twenty  minutes ; 
take  it  up  the  moment  it  is  enough,  a  min- 
ute or  two  longer  boiling  will  spoil  it. 

CAULIFLOWERS  OR  BROCCOLI, 
PICKLED.  Choose  tliose  that  are  hard, 
yet  sufficiently  ripe,  cut  away  the  leaves  and 
stalks.  Set  on  a  stewpan  half  full  of  water, 
salted  in  proportion  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water ;  throw  in  tlie 
cauliflower,  and  let  it  heat  gi^adually ;  when 
it  boils  take  it  up  with  a  spoon  fiilJ  of  holes, 
and  spread  them  on  a  clotli  to  Ary  before 
tlie  fire,  for  twenty-foui'  hours  at  least;  when 
quite  dry,  put  them,  piece  by  piece,  into 
jars  or  glass  tie-overs,  and  cover  them  with 
tlie  pickle  we  have  directed  for  beet  roots, 
or  make  a  pickle  by  infusing  three  ounces 
of  the  curiy  powder  for  tliree  days  in  a  quart 
of  vinegar  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Nastur- 
tiums are  excellent  prepared  as  above. 

CAULIFLOWERS,  PICKLED.     Cut 

the  cauiiflowere  in  pieces,  and  tlirow  them 
Into  boiling  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
then  lay  them  on  cloths  to  drain.  Put  tliem 
in  a  jar  with  cloves  and  salt,  and  cover 
them  with  the  l>est  vinegar. 


CAULIFLOWER    SALAD.       When 

you  have  prepared  and  boiled  the  cauli- 
flowers, drain  and  let  theni  cool ;  cut  tliem 
in  pieces;  season  them  with  salt,  pepper, 
oil  and  vinegar,  and  eat  them  as  any  other 
salad. 

CAUDLE.  (1)  Boil  up  half  a  pmt  of 
fine  gruel,  with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
large  nutmeg,  a  large  spoonful  of  brandy, 
the  same  of  white  wine,  one  of  capillaire,  a 
piece  of  lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg. 

CAUDLE.  (2)  Make  a  fine  smooth 
gruel  of  half-grits ;  when  boiled,  strain  it, 
stir  it  at  times  till  cold.  When  wanted  for 
use,  add  sugar,  wine,  and  lemon-peel,  with 
some  nutmeg.  According  to  taste,  you  may 
add,  if  you  please,  besides  the  wine,  a  spoon- 
ful of  brandy,  or  lemon-juice. 

CAUDLE,  BROWN.  Boil  the  gruel 
the  same  as  for  white  caudle,  widi  six  spoon- 
fuls of  oatmeal,  and  strain  it ;  llien  add  a 
quart  of  good  ale,  not  bitter ;  boil  it,  then 
sweeten  it  according  to  your  taste,  and  add 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine.  When  you  do 
not  put  in  the  white  wine,  let  it  be  half  ale. 

CAUDLE,  COLD.  Boil  a  quart  of 
spring  water;  when  cold,  add  the  yolk  of 
an  egg,  tlie  juice  of  a  small  lemon,  six  sj)oon- 
fids  of  sweet  wine,  sugar  to  yoiu-  taste,  and 
one  ounce  of  sirup  of  lemons. 

CECILS.     Mix  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes  the  following  ingredients:  minced 
meat  of  whatever  kind  you  please,   bread 
crumbs,   plenty   of  onion,  lemon-peel,  nut- 
meg, parsley  chopped,  pepper,  salt,  a  little 
butter,  and  some  anchovies.     When  nearly 
!  cold,  roll  them  up  into  balls  about  the  size 
I  of  an  egg ;    moisten  tliem  with  egg,  strew 
I  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  fi*y  tliem  of  a 
I  good   clear  color:   serve  them   with  made 
gvary. 

I  CELERY,  TO  STEW.  Wash  and 
clean  some  heads  of  celery,  cut  them  into 
I  pieces  of  two  or  three  inches  long,  boil 
I  them  in  veal  stock  till  tender.  To  half  a 
I  pint  of  cream  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
I  two  eggs,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  grated  nut- 
I  meg,  and  salt,  also  a  bit  of  butter;  make  it 
hot,  stirring  it  constantly ;  strain  it  upon  the 
I  celery ;  heat  it  thoroughly,  but  do  not  let  it 
I  boil. 


I  CHARLOTTE.  (1)  Cut  a  sufficient 
I  number  of  diin  slices  of  white  bread  to  cover 
I  the  bottom  and  line  tlie  sides  of  a  baking- 
i  dish,  first  rubbing  it  thickly  witii  Ixitter. 
Put  thin  slices  of  apples  into  the  dish  in 
1  layers,  till  the  disli  is  full,  strewing  sugar 


CHE 


46 


CHE 


and  bits  of  butter  between.  In  the  mean- 
time, soak  as  many  thin  slices  of  bread  as 
will  cover  the  whole,  in  warm  milk ;  over 
which  place  a  plate,  and  a  weight,  to  keep 
the  bread  close  upon  the  apples ;  let  it  bake 
slowly  for  three  hours.  For  a  middling- 
sized  dish,  you  should  use  half  a  pound  of 
butter  for  the  A\'hole. 

CHARLOTTE.  (2)  This  second  course 
may  be  made  of  any  kind  of  fruit  you  please, 
and  is  eaten  hot.  If  apples  are  used,  pare, 
core,  and  cut  about  twenty  of  them  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
witli  some  water,  a  good  piece  of  fresh  but- 
ter, powder-sugar,  poundted  cinnamon,  and 
grated  lemon-peel,  and  stew  till  the  water  is 
dried  up ;  then  set  them  to  cool  in  an  earth- 
en waie  vessel.  Cut  some  veiy  thin  slices 
of  crumb  of  bread,  dip  them  in  melted  fresh 
butter,  and  lay  them  neatly  all  over  tlie  bot- 
tom and  round  the  sides  of  the  stewpan; 
then  pour  in  the  apples,  leaving  a  hole  in 
the  middle,  in  which  put  apricot  marma- 
lade. Cover  the  whole  with  bread,  sliced 
tliin,  and  buttered  as  above.  Place  it  in  a 
hot  oven,  bake  it  an  hour,  and  turn  it  out. 

CHARLOTTE  DES  POMMES.  Pare, 
core,  and  mince  fourteen  or  fifteen  French 
rennet  apples ;  put  them  into  a  frying-jjan, 
with  some  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  little  pound- 
ed cinnamon,  grated  leraon-peel,  and  two 
ounces  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter ;  fry  them 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  over  a  quick  fire,  stir- 
ring diem  constantly.  Butter  a  shape  of 
tlie  size  the  charlotte  is  intended  to  be ;  cut 
strips  of  bread  about  the  width  of  two  fin- 
gers, and  long  enough-  to  reach  from  the 
bottom  to  die  rim  of  the  shape,  so  that  the 
whole  be  lined  with  bread ;  dip  each  bit  in- 
to melted  butter,  and  dien  put  a  layer  of 
the  fried  apples,  and  one  of  apricot  jam  or 
marmalade,  and  tlien  one  of  bread  dipped 
into  butter;  begin  and  finish  with  it.  Bake 
it  in  an  oven  for  nearly  an  hour ;  turn  it  cut 
to  serve  it.  It  may  be  boiled,  and  served 
with  a  sweet  sauce. 

,  CHEESE,  BOILED.  Grate  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  good  cheese,  put  it  into  a 
sauce  pan,  with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
nutmeg,  and  half  a  tea-cupful  of  milk,  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  it  boil,  and  then  add  a  well- 
beaten  egg ;  mix  it  all  together,  put  it  into 
a  small  dish,  and  brown  it  before  the  fire. 

CHEESE,  CAKE  OF.  Take  about  the 
fourth  part  of  a  close,  fat  Brie  cheese,  pound 
and  rub  it  through  a  sieve ;  mix  with  it  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  flour ;  lay  it  on  the  lx)ard, 
make  a  .iole  in  the  middle,  into  which  put 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  work 
it  in  wpll;  add  to  it  a  little  Gruyere  cheese  I 


grated,  and  six  eggs.  Knead  these  all  to- 
gether well ;  mould  it  up,  and  let  it  stand 
for  half  an  hour ;  then  roll  it  out,  and  make 
it  into  a  cake  of  about  three  inches ;  mark 
it  widi  a  knife  on  one  side  in  chequei-s,  and 
on  the  other  in  rays ;  do^ez,  and  bake  it  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

CHEESE  CREAM.  Warm  three  half 
pints  of  cream  with  one  half  pint  of  milk, 
or  according  to  the  same  proportion,  and 
put  a  little  rennet  to  it ;  keep  it  covered  in 
a  warm  place  till  it  is  curdled ;  have  a  pro- 
per mould  with  holes,  eitlier  of  China  or  any 
other;  put  the  curds  into  it  to  drain,  about 
an  hour,  or  less:  serve  with  a  good  plain 
cream,  and  pounded  sugar  over  it. 

CHEESECAKES.  (1)  Put  two  quarts 
of  new  milk  into  a  stewpan,  set  it  near  the 
fire,  and  stir  in  two  table-spoonfiils  of  ren- 
net: let  it  stand  till  it  is  set  (this  will  take 
about  an  hour) ;  break  it  well  with  your 
hand,  and  let  it  remain  half  an  hour  longer; 
then  pour  off  the  whey,  and  put  the  curd  into 
a  colander  to  drain ;  when  quite  dry,  put  it 
in  a  mortar,  and  pound  it  quite  smooth; 
then  add  four  ounces  of  sugar,  pounded  and 
sifted,  and  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter ;  oil 
it  first  by  putting  it  in  a  little  potting-pot, 
and  setting  it  near  the  fire ;  stir  it  all  well 
together:  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a 
basin,  with  a  little  nutmeg  grated,  lemon- 
peel,  and  a  glass  of  brandy;  add  this  to  the 
curd,  with  two  ounces  of  cuirants,  washed 
and  picked ;  stir  it  all  well  together ;  have 
your  tins  ready  lined  with  puff  paste  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  notch  tliem  all 
round  the  edge,  and  fill  each  with  die  cm-d. 
Bake  them  twenty  minutes.  When  you 
have  company,  and  want  a  variety,  you  can 
make  a  mould  of  curd  and  cream,  by  put- 
ting the  curd  in  a  mould  full  of  holes,  instead 
of  the  colander:  let  it  stand  for  six  horn's, 
dien  turn  it  out  very  carefully  on  a  dish,  and 
pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of  good  cream  sweet- 
ened with  loaf  ^igar,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
What  there  is  left,  if  set  in  a  cool  place, 
will  make  excellent  cheesecakes  die  next 
day. 

CHEESECAKES.  (2)  Put  a  spoonful 
of  rennet  into  a  quart  of  milk ;  when  turned, 
drain  the  curd  through  a  coarse  sieve,  gent- 
ly break  the  curd,  and  rub  in  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  a  quai-ter  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  nutmeg,  and  two  Naples  biscuits 
grated,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  the  white 
of  one,  half  an  ounce  of  almonds,  half  bitter 
and  half  sweet,  well  beaten  in  a  mortar, 
with  two  spoonftils  of  rose  water,  foui-  ounces 
ofcuiTants;  put  in  die  curd,  and  mix  all 
together.  One  quart  of  milk,  and  three 
dessert  spoonfiils  of  rice-flour,  six  eggs,  leave 


CHE 


47 


CHE 


out  three  of  the  whites,  and  currants  to 
your  taste. 

CHEESECAKES.  (3)  Beat  eight 
eggs  well,  while  a  quart  of  milk  is  on  the 
fire,  and  when  it  boils,  put  in  the  eggs,  and 
stir  them  till  they  come  to  a  curd ;  then  pour 
it  out,  and  when  it  is  cold,  put  in  a  little 
salt,  two  spoonfuls  of  rose  water,  and  tlu-ee- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  currants  well  washed ; 
put  it  into  puff  paste,  and  bake  it.  If  you 
use  tin  patties  to  bake  in,  butter  diem,  or 


you 


^ill  not  be  able  to  take  them  out ;   but 


if  you  bake  them  in  glass  or  china,  only  an 
upjjer  crust  will  be  necessary,  as  you  will 
not  want  to  take  than  out  when  you  send 
them  to  table. 

CHEESECAKES.  (4)  Take  one  pound 
of  loaf  sugar  jx)unded,  six  yolks,  and  four 
whites  of  eggs  beaten,  the  juice  of  tliree  fine 
lemons,  the  grated  rind  of  two,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  put  these  in- 
gredients into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  the  mix- 
ture gently  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  be  of  tJie 
consistence  of  honey;  poiur  it  into  small 
jars,  and  when  cold  put  paper  dipped  in 
brandy  over  them.  It  will  keep  good  for  a 
year. 

CHEESE,  POUNDED.  Cut  a  pound 
of  good  mellow  cheese  into  thin  bits ;  add 
to  it  two,  and  if  the  cheese  is  dry,  three 
ounces  of  fresh  butter ;  pound,  and  rub  them 
well  together  in  a  mortar  till  it  is  quite 
smootli.  When  cheese  is  dry,  and  for  those 
whose  digestion  is  feeble,  this  is  the  best 
way  of  eating  it ;  and  spread  on  bread,  it 
makes  an  excellent  luncheon  or  supper. 
The  piquance  of  diis  is  sometimes  increas- 
ed by  pounding  with  it  curi^y  powder,  ground 
spice,  black  pepper,  Cayenne,  and  a  little 
made  mustard ;  and  some  moisten  it  with  a 
glass  of  Sherry.  If  pressed  down  hard  in 
a  jar,  and  covered  with  clarified  butter, 
it  will  keep  for  several  days  in  cool  weath- 
er. II 

CHEESE,  ROASTED.  Grate  three 
ounces  of  fat  cheese,  mix  it  widi  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  four  ounces  of  grated 
bread,  and  three  ounces  of  butter ;  beat  the 
whole  well  in  a  mortar,  with  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful of  mustard,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Toast  some  bread,  cut  it  into  proper  pieces ; 
lay  the  paste,  as  above,  thick  upon  them, 
put  them  into  a  Dutch  oven  covered  with  a 
dish,  till  hot  through,  remove  die  dish,  and 
let  the  cheese  brown  a  little.  Serve  as  hot 
as  possible. 

CHEESE,  STEWED.  Melt  diree- 
quarters  of  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  tea-cup- 
ful of  cream,  mix  with  it  a  quarter  of  a 


pound  of  good  cheese  finely  grated,  beat  it 
well  togeUier;  put  a  slice  of  toasted  bread 
into  a  dish,  and  pour  the  mixture  over  it, 
and  brown  it  with  a  balamander. 

CHEESE  TOASTED,  OR  RABBIT. 

Cut  a  slice  of  bread,  toast  it,  and  soak  it 
in  red  wine,  put  it  before  the  fire ;  cut  some 
cheese  in  very  thin  slices,  and  rub  some  but- 
ter over  the  bottom  of  a  plate,  lay  the  cheese 
upon  it,  and  pour  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls 
of  white  wine,  and  a  litde  mustard ;  cover 
it  with  another  plate,  and  set  it  on  a  chafing- 
dish  of  coals  two  or  diree  minutes,  then  stir 
it  till  it  is  well  mixed ;  when  it  is  mixed 
enough,  lay  it  upon  the  bread,  and  brown  it 
with  a  salamander. 

CHEESE  TOASTED.  Cut  a  slice  of 
bread  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  pare  off  the 
crust,  and  toast  it  very  slightly  on  one  side 
so  as  just  to  brown  it,  without  making  it 
hard  or  burning  it.  Cut  a  slice  of  good 
fat  mellow  cheese,  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  not  so  big  as  the  bread  by  half  an 
inch  on  each  side:  pare  off  the  rind,  cut  out 
all  the  specks  and  rotten  parts,  and  lay  it 
on  die  toasted  bread  in  a  cheese-toaster; 
carefully  watch  it  that  it  does  not  burn,  and 
stir  it  widi  a  spoon  to  prevent  a  pellicle 
forming  on  the  surface.  Have  ready  good 
mustard,  pepper  and  salt.  If  you  observe 
the  directions  here  given,  the  cheese  Avill 
eat  mellow,  and  will  be  uniformly  done, 
and  the  bread  crisp  and  soft,  and  will  well 
deserve  its  ancient  appellation  of  a  "  rare 
bit."  This  Receipt,  as  well  as  every  other 
worth  extracting,  is  from  die  Cook's  Oracle. 
Tlie  Editor  goes  on  to  say.  We  have  noth- 
ing to  add  to  the  directions  given  for  toast- 
ing the  cheese  in  the  last  receipt,  except  that 
in  sending  it  up,  it  will  save  much  time  in 
portioning  it  out  at  table,  if  you  have  half  a 
dozen  smull  silver  or  tin  paas  to  fit  into  the 
cheese-toaster,  and  do  the  cheese  in  these: 
each  person  may  then  be  helped  to  a  sepa- 
rate pan,  and  it  will  keep  die  cheese  much 
hotter  than  the  usual  way  of  eating  it  on  a 
cold  plate.  Obs. — Ceremony  seldom  tri- 
umphs more  completely  over  comfort  than  in 
the  ser\'ing  out  of  this  dish;  which,  to  be 
presented  to  the  palate  in  ))erfection,  it  is 
imperatively  indispensable  that  it  be  intro- 
duced to  die  mouth  as  soon  as  it  appears  on 
the  table. 

CHERRY  BRANDY.  (1)  Pick  and 
bruise  eight  pounds  of  black  maroons,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  small  black  cherries ;  let  them 
stand  for  two  months  in  a  cask  with  six 
gallons  of  brandy,  two  pounds  of  crushed 
sugar,  and  a  quart  of  sack  well  stirred  to- 
gether. At  die  end  of  that  time  it  may  \y 
drawn  off  and  botded. 


CHI 


48 


CHI 


CHERRY  BRANDY.  (2)  Choose 
fine  sound  morella  cherries,  and  having 
taken  off  the  stalks,  place  diem  in  layers 
in  glass  jars;  strew  powder-sugar  between 
each  layer,  and  cover  them  with  brandy. 
As  soon  as  the  cherries  have  imbibed  the 
brandy,  pour  in  more,  so  as  to  keep  them 
constantly  covered. 

CHERRIES,  DRIED.  Take  large 
chen'ies,  not  too  ripe ;  pick  off  the  stalks, 
and  take  out  the  stones  with  a  quill  cut 
nearly  as  for  a  pen :  to  three  pounds  of  which 
take  three  pounds  or  pints  of  clarified  sugar ; 
boil  it  to  the  degree  of  blown ;  put  in  the 
cherries,  give  them  a  boil,  and  set  them  by 
in  an  eartlien  pan  till  the  next  day;  then 
strain  tlie  sirup,  add  more  sugar,  and  boil 
it  of  a  good  consistence ;  put  die  cherries  in, 
and  boil  them  five  minutes,  and  set  them  by 
another  day:  repeat  the  boiling  two  more 
days,  and  when  wanted,  drain  them  some- 
time, and  lay  them  on  wire  sieves  to  diy  in 
a  stove,  or  nearly  cold  oven. 

CHERRY  PUDDING.  See  Puddings. 

CHERVIL,  Is  principally  used  in  soups 
and  stuffing,  and  is  generally  preserved  with 
other  herbs  as  follows :  take  of  sorrel,  chervil, 
beet,  purslain,  and  cucumbers,  if  in  season, 
quantities  according  to  your  liking;  wash 
them  well;  mince  and  press  them  in  your 
hand,  to  squeeze  out  all  the  water.  Put 
them  into  a  kettle  widi  water,  some  butter 
and  salt,  and  boil  them  until  the  water  is 
entirely  consumed.  Then  take  them  out, 
and  when  cold,  put  them  into  pots;  cover 
them  with  warmed  butter.  When  you 
want  to  use  diese  herbs,  put  them  into  some 
stock  that  has  very  little  salt  in  it.  If  they 
ai'e  required  for  a  farce  or  garnish,  boil  them 
a  minute  or  two  in  some  butter;  thicken 
with  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  milk;  when  so 
prepared,  they  may  be  served  under  hard 
eggs  or  broiled  fish.  For  sauce,  it  must  be 
chopped  small,  boiled  in  salt  and  water,  and 
mixed  widi  melted  butter. 

CHESTN  UTS,  Should  be  placed  on  the 
fire  in  a  pan  with  holes  to  roast ;  first  slitting 
or  cutting  a  notch  in  the  skins,  to  prevent 
their  flying  off.  When  done,  serve  them  in 
dessert  on  a  napkin,  as  hot  as  possible. 
Some  boil  the  chestnuts  instead  of  roasting 
tiiem,  as  die  skins  are  then  cleaner,  but  the 
nuts  not  quite  so  mealy;  the  better  way 
is  to  boil  them  in  plenty  of  water,  and 
when  nearly  done,  take  them  out  and  roast 
them. 

CHICKENS.  Having  picked  the  chick- 
ens, suige  them  well  to  remove  all  the  hairs, 
&€.,  which  may  remain  on  the  skin;  dien 


braise  the  bone  close  to  the  foot,  and  draw 
the  strings  from  the  thigh.  Take  out  die 
crop  by  a  slit  cut  in  the  back  of  die  neck ; 
then  cut  off  the  neck,  leaving  skin  enough  to 
turn  over  the  back.  Cut  off  the  vent,  and 
take  out  the  inside,  being  carefiil  not  to  break 
the  gall ;  break  the  back-bone  and  the  two 
bones  leading  to  the  pinions ;  wipe  the  chick- 
en widi  a  cloth,  and  put  in  a  little  pepper 
and  salt.  If  the  chicken  is  to  be  tinissed  for 
roasting,  proceed  as  follows: — Turn  the  legs 
close  down  to  the  apron  and  run  a  skewer 
through ;  run  another  skewer  in  die  joint  of 
one  wing  dirough  the  body  to  the  other  wing ; 
and  having  washed  die  liver  and  gizzard, 
place  them  in  die  pinions.  For  boiling,  the 
under  part  of  the  thigh  must  be  cut,  and  the 
legs  placed  under  die  api-on,  only  letting  die 
ends  be  seen.  Be  sure  to  preserve  the  breast 
very  full. 

CHICKEN  BROTH.     See  Broth. 

CHICKENS,  BROILED  OR  GRILL- 
ED. Pick  and  singe  them  nicely,  wash 
them  clean,  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth ;  cut  them 
down  the  back,  truss  the  legs  and  wings,  as 
for  boiling ;  flatten  them,  and  put  diem  upon 
a  cold  gridiron ;  when  they  become  a  little 
dry,  put  diem  upon  a  plate,  baste  them  with 
butter,  and  strew  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
over  the  inside,  which  part  is  laid  first  upon 
the  gridiron ;  baste  them  fi-equenlly,  and  let 
them  broil  slowly  for  about  half  an  how. 
Serve  them  very  hot,  with  melted  butter 
poured  over  tlieui,  or  plenty  of  stewed  mush- 
rooms. The  livers  and  gizzards  may  be 
broiled  with  them,  fastened  into  the  wings, 
or  well  seasoned,  broiled,  and  ser\ed  widi 
the  chickens. 

CHICKEN  BAKED  IN   RICE.     Cut 

a  chicken  into  joints  as  for  a  fi'icassee,  sea- 
son it  well  widi  pepper  and  salt,  lay  it  into  a 
pudding  dish  lined  widi  slices  of  ham  or  ba- 
con, add  a  pint  of  veal  gravy,  and  an  onion 
finely  minced ;  fi^l  up  the  dit;li  widi  boiled 
rice  well  pressed  and  piled  as  high  as  the 
dish  will  hold,  cover  it  with  a  paste  of  flour 
and  water ;  bake  it  one  hour,  and  before  serv- 
ing take  off  die  paste. 

CHICKENS  BOILED.  (1)  Put  the 
chickens  into  a  saucepan  by  diemselves,  and 
boil  a  small  one  for  fifteen,  a  larger  one 
twenty  minutes. 

CHICKENS  BOILED.  (2)  When  they 
are  drawn  and  trussed,  lay  the  chickens  in 
skim  milk  for  about  two  hours;  dien  put 
thein  into  cold  water,  cover  them  close,  and 
set 'them  over  a  slow  fire,  and  skim  diem 
well.  As  soon  as  they  have  boiled  slowly, 
take  diem  from  die  fire,  and  let  diem  remain 


CHI 


49 


CHI 


in  the  water  close  covered  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  drain  and  ser\'e  with  white  sauce. 

CHICKEN,  BROILED.  Split  a  couple 
of  chickens,  take  out  the  inside  and  back- 
bones, beat  them  with  a  wooden  spoon,  dip 
them  in  clarified  butter,  and  broil  them,  the 
inside  next  the  fire  (which  should  te  of 
charcoal),  and  only  turn  them  to  color  them. 
When  done,  pour  on  them  a  sauce  made  as 
foll<jvvs  : — Boil  some  stewed  mushrooms  with 
beef  stock  and  plain  sauce,  an  equal  quanti- 
ty of  each,  until  of  a  proper  consistence; 
flavor  it  with  lemon-juice  and  Cayenne  pep- 
per. 

CHICKENS  CHIRINGATE.  Having 
taken  off  the  feet,  beat  the  breast  bones  of 
your  chickens  flat  without  breaking  the  skin, 
flour  and  fry  them  in  butter  ;  when  of  a  nice 
brown  take  all  the  fat  from  the  pan,  leaving 
in  the  chickens,  over  which  lay  a  pound  of 
gravy  beef  cut  in  thin  slices,  another  piece 
of  beef  also  cut  thin,  some  mace,  cloves, 
pepper,  an  onion,  a  carrot,  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs :  pour  a  quart  of  boiling  water 
over  the  whole,  cover  it  quite  close,  and  let 
it  stew ;  in  a  quai-ter  of  an  hour  take  out 
the  chickens,  but  let  the  gravy  continue 
boiling,  and  when  very  rich  strain  it ;  then 
put  it  again  into  the  pan  with  a  little  red 
wine  and  a  few  mushrooms ;  then  put  in  the 
chickens,  and  when  they  are  hot,  dish  them 
up,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them ;  garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon  and  broiled  ham. 

CHICKENS  CREME.  (1)  Parboil  a 
couple  of  young  chickens,  cut  them  in  pieces, 
and  throw  into  warm  water  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  do  them  over  the  fire  in  a  little  fresh 
butter,  with  salt,  parsley,  pepper,  morels, 
&c.  sprinkle  with  flour,  and  dilute  with  a 
glass  of  boiling  water;  cover  the  stewpan 
close,  and  let  it  stand  on  hot  ashes  until  the 
water  has  soaked  into  the  chicken,  tlien  add 
half  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  little  butter.  The 
yolks  of  three  eggs  may  be  put  in  also,  but 
in  tliat  case,  a  small  quantity  of  verjuice 
should  be  put  in  before  the  cream. 

CHICKENS  CREME.  (2)  Stuff  and 
roast  your  chickens,  and  when  you  take  diem 
from  the  spit,  rub  them  with  butter,  cover 
them  with  bread-crumbs,  wrap  them  in 
slices  of  bacon,  and  bake  them  a  short  time ; 
serve  with  well  thickened  cream-sauce. 

CHICKEN  CROQUETTES.  (1)  Re- 
duce two  spoonfuls  of  veloute  or  sauce  tour- 
nee,  and  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  four  eggs; 
put  to  this  the  white  meat  of  a  chicken 
minced  very  small,  and  well  mixed  with  the 
sauce,  take  it  out,  and  roll  it  into  balls  about 
the  size  of  a  walnut ;  roll  them  in  bread- 
5 


crumbs,  giving  them  an  elongated  form; 
then  dip  them  in  some  well-beaten  egg, 
bread  them  again,  and  firy  them  of  a  light 
brown. 

CHICKEN  CROQUETTES.  (2)  Mix 

well  into  some  very  thick  bechamelle  and 
some  glaze  the  breast  of  a  chicken,  some 
tongue,  truffles  and  mushrooms  all  minced 
very  small ;  when  quite  cold  roll  them  into 
little  balls  about  the  size  of  a  nut,  and  hav- 
ing beaten  up  three  eggs  throw  the  balls  into 
them.  Take  them  out  quickly  and  roll  them 
in  bread-crumbs;  dip  them  a  second  time 
into  the  eggs,  and  cover  them  again  with 
bread-crumbs ;  fry  them  as  other  croquettes. 
Lay  fried  parsley  on  a  napkin  in  a  dish, 
place  the  croquettes  on,  and  round  it,  and 


CHICKEN  CURRY.  Take  the  skin 
off,  cut  up  a  chicken,  and  roll  each  piece  in 
curiy-powder  and  flour  (mixed  together  a 
spoonful  of  flour  to  half  an  ounce  of  curry) 
fiy  two  or  three  sliced  onions  in  butter; 
when  of  a  light  brown,  put  in  the  meat  and 
fi'y  them  together  till  the  meat  becomes 
brown ;  tlien  stew  them  together  witli  a  lit- 
tle water  for  two  or  three  hours.  More 
water  may  be  added  if  too  thick. 

CHICKEN  CAPILOTADE.  Put  into 
a  stewpan  a  little  butter  and  flour;  add 
mushrooms,  parsley,  and  shallots  cut  small, 
dilute  these  witli  equal  quantites  of  stock,  and 
red  or  white  wine.  When  the  sauce  is  well 
boiled,  skim  it ;  cut  a  roasted  fowl  in  pieces, 
and  put  it  into  this  sauce;  stew  it  gently 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Add  some  gherkins 
cut  in  thin  slices. 

CHICKEN,  COLD  FRIED.     Cut  the 

chicken  in  quarters,  and  take  off  the  skin, 
rub  it  with  an  egg  beaten  up,  and  cover  it 
with  giated  bread  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  grated  lemon-j)eel,  and  chopped  parsley, 
fry  it  in  butter,  thicken  a  little  brown  gravy 
with  flour  and  butter,  add  a  little  Cayenne, 
lemon  pickle,  and  mushroom  catchup. 

CHICKENS  FRICASSEED.  Prepare 
and  cut  up  two  chickens ;  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  some  butter,  parsley,  a  bay- 
leaf,  thyme,  basil,  two  cloves,  mushroomg, 
and  a  slice  of  ham ;  let  them  stew  till  scarce- 
ly any  sauce  remains,  then  add  a  little  flour, 
warm  water,  salt  and  pepper;  stew  it  again 
and  reduce  tlie  sauce.  When  nearly  done 
put  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  op 
with  a  little  cream  or  milk ;  Uiicken  it  over 
the  fu-e,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  a  small  quan- 
tity of  lemon-juice  or  vinegar  may  be  added. 
Place  the  breasts  and  bones  of  the  chickens 
on  a  dish,  lay  the  legs  and  wings  over  them, 


CHI 


50 


CHI 


and  then  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole; 
garnish  with  the  mushrooms.  Take  off  the 
skins  before  you  cut  up  the  chickens  if  you 
wish  the  fricassee  very  white. 

CHICKEN  FRITTERS.  Make  a  bat- 
ter with  four  eggs,  some  new  milk,  and 
rice-flour;  to  this,  add  a  pint  of  cream,  pow- 
der-sugai',  candied  lemon-peel  cut  small, 
fresh  lemon-peel  grated,  and  the  white  parts 
of  a  roasted  chicken  shred  small;  set  all 
these  together  on  a  stove,  and  stir  well  for 
sometime ;  when  done,  take  it  oflf,  roll  out 
the  mixture,  cut  it  into  flitters,  and  fry 
them;  strew  sugar  on  a  dish,  lay  in  the 
fritters,  strew  sugar  over,  and  serve  them 
hot. 

CHICKENS  IN  A  MINUTE.  Cut  a 
chicken  in  pieces,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  little  butter;  add  to  it  some  mush- 
rooms, parsley,  sprinkle  flour  over,  and 
shake  them ;  moisten  it  with  stock  or  water, 
and  white  w*"ne;  when  it  has  boiled  once, 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  put  in  the  yolks  of 
one  or  two  eggs,  and  a  little  vinegar  or 
lemon-juice. 

CHICKENS  AND  OYSTERS.  Fill 
your  chickens  with  young  oysters  cut  small, 
truflles,  parsley,  and  spices,  and  roast  them. 
Blanch  about  two  dozen  young  oysters,  and 
toss  them  up  in  some  melted  butter,  with 
chopped  herbs  and  olive  oil.  When  they 
have  been  on  tlie  fire  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
add  a  little  white  wine  and  half  a  glass  of 
good  stock,  tliicken  it  over  the  fire  for  an- 
other quarter  of  an  hour,  and  when  the 
chickens  are  ready  to  sei-ve,  pour  the  sauce 
on  them,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  oysters 
and  some  lemon. 

CHICKEN  PANADA.  Boil  a  chicken 
in  a  quart  of  water  until  nearly  done ;  tlien 
skin  it,  cut  off  the  white  meat,  and  pound 
it  with  a  little  of  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in 
to  a  thick  paste;  season  it  with  salt,  nut- 
meg, and  lemon-peel ;  boil  it  up  all  together 
for  a  few  minutes. 

CHICKEN    AND    HAM    POTTED. 

Sea^)n  some  pieces  of  chicken,  witli  mace, 
cloves,  and  pepper,  and  bake  them  for  about 
tliree  hours  in  a  close  covered  pan  with 
some  water ;  dien  pound  tliem  quite  small, 
moistening  either  with  melted  butter,  or  the 
liquor  they  were  baked  in.  Pound  also 
some  ham,  and  put  this  with  the  chicken  in 
alternate  kyers,  in  potting  pans,  press  them 
down  tight,  and  cover  them  with  butter. 

CHICKEN  PULLED.  (1)  Half  roast 
a  chicken  or  fowl,  skin  and  pull  off  in  small 
flakes  all  the  white  meat  and  the  meat  of  the 


legs,  break  the  bones,  and  boil  them  in  a 
little  water  till  the  strength  be  drawn  out, 
strain  it,  and  when  it  becomes  cold  skim 
and  put  it  into  a  sauce  pan  witli  a  little  mace, 
white  pepper,  and  salt ;  add  a  bit  of  butter 
mixed  with  flour,  and  rather  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  then  put  in  the 
meat,  and  a  little  mushroom  powder ;  before 
ser^'ing,  add  the  squeeze  of  a  lemon. 

CHICKEN  PULLED.  (2)  Pick  all  the 
white  meat  from  the  bones  of  a  cold  roasted 
fowl,  cut  ofl[tlie  legs,  and  keep  the  back  and 
sidesmen  in  one.  Score,  and  season  the  legs 
and  back  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil 
them;  warm  up  the  white  meat  in  some 
sauce  made  of  the  bones  boiled  in  a  little 
water,  and  which  has  been  strained  and 
thickened  with  a  piece  of  butter,  mixed  with 
flour,  a  little  milk,  and  tlie  yolk  of  an  egg 
beaten  up  and  seasoned  with  white  pepper 
and  salt;  serve  the  broiled  back  upon  the 
mince,  and  the  legs  at  each  end. 

CHICKEN  PIE.     See  Pie. 

CHICKEN  ROASTED.     See  Fowls. 

CHICKENS,   SCOTCH  WAY.     Cut 

your  chickens  into  quarters,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  with  only  just  water  enough  to 
cover  them,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  some  chop- 
ped parsley,  and  a  little  mace,  cover  them 
close  down,  when  it  boils,  add  six  eggs 
well-beaten;  when  the  chickens  are  done, 
take  out  the  parsley,  and  serve  tliem  in  a 
deep  dish  with  the  sauce. 

CHICKENS  AND  TOMATA  SAUCE. 

Mix  together,  in  a  stewpan,  a  little  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  lemon-juice,  and  grated  nut- 
meg, a  sufficient  quantity  to  put  in  two  chick- 
ens; tie  it  in,  and  lay  thin  slices  of  lemon 
on  the  breast  of  the  chickens,  and  lay  them 
in  a  stewpan  lined  widi  thin  rashers  of  ba- 
con; cover  them  with  the  same,  and  stew 
them  with  fire  above  and  below  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour;  when  done,  drain  them 
in  a  cloth ;  untie  them,  and  serve  with  toma- 
ta  sauce. 

CHINA  CHILO.  Mince  a  pint  basin 
of  undressed  neck  of  mutton,  or  leg,  and 
some  of  tlie  fat ;  put  two  onions,  a  lettuce,  a 
pint  of  green  peas,  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper, 
four  spoonfuls  of  water,  and  two  or  three 
ounces  of  clarified  butter,  into  a  st.wpan 
closely  covered ;  simmer  two  hours,  and  serve 
in  the  middle  of  a  dish  of  boiled  dry  rice.  If 
Cayenne  is  approved,  add  a  little. 

CHILI,  OR  CAYENNE  WINE.  Pound 
and  steep  fifty  fresh  red  Chilies,  or  a  quar- 
ter of  an  ounce  of  Cayenne  pepper,  in  half 


CHO 


61 


CHO 


a  pint  of  brandy,  white  wine,  or  claret,  for 
fourteen  days.  This  is  a  "  bonne  bouche" 
for  tlie  lovers  of  Cayenne,  of  which  it  takes 
up  a  larger  proportion  of  its  flavor  tlian  of 
its  fire:  which  being  instantly  difldised,  it  is 
a  very  useful  auxiliary  to  warm  and  finish 
soups,  sauces,  &c. 

CHOCOLATE.  According  as  you  wish 
to  make  this  beverage,  either  with  milk  or 
water,  put  a  cup  of  one  or  other  of  these 
liquids  into  a  chocolate-pot,  with  one  ounce 
of  cake  chocolate.  Some  persons  dissolve 
the  chocolate  in  a  little  water  before  they  put 
it  into  die  milk.  As  soon  as  the  milk  or 
water  begins  to  boil,  mill  it.  When  the 
chocolate  is  dissolved,  and  begins  to  bubble, 
take  it  off  the  fire,  letting  it  stand  near  it 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  mill  it  again 
to  make  it  frotliy ;  afterwards  serve  it  out 
in  cups.  The  chocolate  must  not  be  milled, 
unless  it  is  prepared  witii  cream. 

CHOCOLATE  CREAM.    See  Creams. 

CHOCOLATE  FROTHED  OR  WHIP- 
PED. Put  half  a  pound  of  chocolate  to  a 
glass  of  water  over  a  small  fire,  stirring  it 
with  a  wooden  spoon  until  perfectly  dissolv- 
ed; tlien  take  it  off  and  add  six  yolks  of 
eggs,  a  pint  of  double  cream,  and  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar.  Pour 
tile  whole  into  a  pan,  and  when  cold,  whip 
it  up  as  directed.     See  Cream  Frothed. 

CHOCOLATE  WINE.  Take  a  pint  of 
Sherry,  or  a  pint  and  a  lialf  of  Port,  four 
ounces  and  a  half  of  chocolate,  six  ounces  of 
fine  sugar,  and  half  an  ounce  of  white  starch, 
or  fine  flour ;  mix,  dissolve,  and  boil  all  tliese 
together  for  about  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 
But  if  your  chocolate  is  made  with  sugar, 
take  double  the  quantity  of  chocolate,  and 
half  the  quantity  of  sugar. 

CHOPS  OR  STEAKS.  Those  who 
are  nice  about  steaks,  never  attempt  to  have 
them,  except  in  weather  which  permits  the 
meat  to  be  hung  till  it  is  tender,  and  give  the 
butcher  some  days'  notice  of  their  wish  for 
them.  If,  friendly  reader,  you  wish  to  enter- 
tain your  mouth  widi  a  superlative  beef-steak, 
you  must  have  the  inside  of  die  sirloin  cut 
mto  steaks.  The  next  best  steaks  are  those 
cut  from  the  middle  of  a  rump,  that  has  been 
killed  at  least  four  days  in  moderate  weatlier, 
and  much  longer  in  cold  weather,  when  they 
can  be  cut  about  six  inches  long,  four  inches 
wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick:  do  not  beat 
them,  which  vulgar  trick  breaks  the  cells  in 
which  the  gravy  of  the  meat  is  contained, 
and  it  becomes  dry  and  tasteless.  N.  B. — 
If  your  butcher  sends  steaks  which  are  not 
tender,  we  do  not  insist  that  you  should 


object  to  let  him  be  beaten.  Desire  the 
butcher  to  cut  them  of  even  tliickness;  if  he 
does  not,  divide  die  thicker  from  the  thinner 
pieces,  and  give  tlieni  time  accordingly. 

CHOWDER.  Lay  some  slices  cut  from 
the  fet  part  of  a  belly-piece  of  pork,  in  a 
deep  stewpan,  mix  sliced  onions  witli  a 
variety  of  sweet  lierl)s,  and  lay  them  on  the 
pork.  Bone  and  cut  a  fresh  cod  into  thin 
slices,  and  place  them  on  the  pork ;  then  put 
a  layer  of  pork,  on  that  a  layer  of  biscuit, 
then  alternately  the  other  materials  until  the 
pan  is  nearly  full,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  put  in  about  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water, 
lay  a  paste  over  the  whole,  cover  die  stewpan 
very  close,  and  let  it  stand,  wiUi  fire  above 
as  well  as  below,  for  four  hours ;  then  skim 
it  well,  and  put  it  in  a  dish,  pour  a  glass  of 
Madeira  made  hot  over  it,  also  some  Jamaica 
pepper,  stewed  mushrooms,  trufiles,  and 
oysters ;  brown  die  paste  slightly,  and  lay  it 
over  the  whole. 

CHOWDER   FOR   TEN    OR    TWTELVE. 

Take  of  salt  pork  cut  in  thin  slices,  as  much 
as  will  make  half  a  pint  of  fat,  when  tried, 
which  will  do  for  two  good  sized  cod  or 
haddock.  Be  careful  not  to  bm-n  the  fat. 
First,  put  your  fat  in  die  pot.  Secondly, 
cut  your  fish  in  as  large  pieces  as  will  go 
into  the  pot ;  then  put  a  layer  of  fish  on  the 
fat ;  pepper,  salt  and  a  few  cloves,  then  a 
layer  of  the  slices  of  pork,  strewed  over  with 
onions  cut  fine ;  then  a  layer  of  shipbread 
or  hard  crackers  dipped  in  water ;  Uien  your 
thickening.  Go  on  again  with  fish,  &c.  &c. 
as  above,  till  your  pot  is  nearly  full,  then  put 
in.  water  until  you  can  just  see  it,  and  let  it 
stew  slowly,  so  as  not  to  break  die  fish. 
After  coming  to  a  boil,  it  will  be  done  in 
twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes.  N.  B. — Some 
like  potatoes  cut  in  slices,  which  may  lie  in- 
ti-oduced  between  each  layer.  Likewise 
wine  or  cider,  as  you  fancy.  Qcf=This 
Receipt  is  according  to  the  most  approved 
method,  practised  by  fishing  parties  in  Bo»- 
ton  harbor. 

CHOWDER,  CLAM,  May  be  made  in 
die  same  way,  substituting  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  clams  instead  of  cod,  the  heads 
or  hard  leadiery  part  being  first  cut  off 
Many  prefer  clam  chowdei-,  nicely  cooked, 
to  chowder  made  of  cod,  haddock,  &c. 
The  pilgdms  to  Plymouth,  it  is  said,  could 
cook  diis  shell  fish  and  lobsters  m  nearly 
fifty  different  ways,  and  even  as  puddings, 
pancakes,  &c. 

CHOUX.  Put  a  pint  of  water  into  a 
stewpan,  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
the  rinds  of  two  lemons  grated,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  very  little  salt; 


coc 


52 


COD 


as  SDon  as  tlie  water  begins  to  boil,  add  as 
much  flour  as  tlie  liquor  will  imbibe ;  when 
tlie  paste  becomes  very  tliick,  keep  stirring 
with  a  spoon  until  quite  done,  then  let  it 
cool.  After  tliat,  break  into  it  a  sufliciaiit 
number  of  eggs  to  make  the  paste  soft ;  taking 
care  that  it  be  firm  enough  to  allow  you  to 
work  it  up  with  the  hand ;  when  it  may  be 
formed  according  to  fancy.  This  paste  may 
be  glazed  and  garnished  either  with  almonds 
or  pistachio  nuts ;  when  baking  the  choux, 
be  careful  to  keep  the  oven  tightly  closed. 

CITRON  CHEESECAKES.  Boil  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  when  cold,  mix  with  it 
two  eggs  well-beaten ;  tlien  boil  them  togeth- 
er until  they  become  a  curd.  Beat  a  few 
blanched  almonds  in  a  mortar,  with  a  little 
orange-flower  water ;  put  them  to  the  cuid, 
and  add  some  Naples  biscuits  and  green  cit- 
ron, chopped  \evy  small.  Sweeten,  and  bake 
in  tins. 

CITRON  PUDDING.     See  Puddings. 

CLARET  PUFFS.  Mix  together,  and 
sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  pint  of 
claret,  and  ratlier  more  than  one  of  rich 
cream ;  let  it  stand  a  night,  and  dien  whisk 
it  to  a  froth,  which  take  off  as  it  rises,  and 
put  upon  the  back  of  a  sieve  to  drain ;  heap 
it  upon  a  dish,  sweeten  some  rich  cream, 
and  pour  it  round  the  froth,  to  make  it  float. 

CLOVE,  ESSENCE  OF.  Infuse  a 
di'achm  of  oil  of  cloves  in  two  ounces  of 
the -strongest  spirits  of  wine,  apothecary's 


CLOVE  WATER.  Mix  a  little  cinna- 
mon widi  the  cloves,  or  the  scent  will  be 
too  strong ;  allow  half  a  score  of  cloves  to  a 
quart  of  water ;  put  in  a  good  piece  of 
sugar;  let  them  infuse  some  time  over  hot 
embers,  or  in  a  warm  place ;  tlien  strain  it 
for  use. 

COBBLER.      Name   given   to    bread 
toasted  on  one  side  only. 

COCHINEAL  PREPARED.  Pound 
an  ounce  of  cochineal  to  a  very  fine  powder, 
pound  also  an  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  and 
two  drachms  of  alum;  put  these  ingredients 
into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  water ; 
when  it  boils  take  it  from  tlie  firfe,  and  let 
it  cool ;  pour  it  off  into  a  bottle,  as  free  from 
isediment  as  possible,  and  set  it  by  for  use. 

COCOA.  Put  i^o  a  saucepan  one  ounce 
of  good  cocoa  and  onk  quart  of  water ;  cover 
it,  and  when  it  boils,  set  it  by  die  side  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  for  two  hours.  It  is  some- 
times made  in  a  larger  quantity,  poui-ed 


fi-om  the  sediment,  and  boiled  up  as  it  is  re- 
quired. 

COCOA-NUT   SWEETMEAT.      (1) 

Cut  die  nut  out  of  the  shell,  pare  it  carefully, 
and  throw  it  into  cold  water;  then  giate  it, 
and  boil  it  in  clarified  sugar,  (a  pound  to  each 
pound  of  the  cocoa-nut)  until  quite  thick; 
stir  it  frecjuently  to  prevent  its  burning. 
Then  pour  it  on  a  well  buttered  dish  or  mai'- 
ble  slab,  and  cut  it  into  whatever  forms  you 
tliink  proper. 

COCOA-NUT  SWEETxMEAT.      (2) 

Proceed  as  above,  but  do  not  boil  die  sugar 
so  thick  by  a  great  deal ;  then  stir  into  it 
whilst  hot  die  yolks  of  six  eggs;  diis  must 
be  served  in  jelly  glasses. 

COD.  A  cod-fish  should  be  firm  and 
white,  the  gills  red,  and  die  eye  lively;  a 
fine  fish  is  vei-y  thick  about  the  neck;  if  the 
flesh  is  at  all  flabby  it  is  not  good.  Cod  is 
in  its  prime  during  die  mondis  of  October 
and  November,  if  the  weather  be  cold ;  from 
die  latter  end  of  March  to  May,  cod  is  also 
veiy  fine.  The  length  of  time  it  requires 
for  boiling  depends  on  the  size  of  die  fish, 
which  varies  from  one  pound  to  twenty ;  a 
small  fish,  about  two  or  three  pounds  weight 
will  be  sufficiently  boiled  in  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  twenty  minutes  after  the  water  boils. 
Prepare  a  cod  for  dressing  in  the  fJjllowing 
manner: — empty  and  wash  it  dioroughly, 
scrape  off  all  the  scales,  cut  ojien  the  l>elly, 
and  wash  and  diy  it  well,  rub  a  little  salt 
inside,  or  lay  it  for  an  hour  in  strong  brine. 
The  simple  way  of  dressing  it  is  as  follows : — 
Tie  up  the  head,  and  put  it  into  a  fish-kettle, 
with  plenty  of  water  and  salt  in  it;  boil  it 
gently,  and  serve  it  with  oyster  sauce.  Lay 
a  napkin  under  the  fish,  and  garnish  wiUi 
slices  of  lemon,  horse-radish,  &c. 

COD  BAKED.  (1)  Soak  a  fine  piece 
of  the  middle  of  fresh  cod  in  melted  butter, 
widi  parsley  and  sweet  herbs  shred  very  fine ; 
let  it  stand  over  die  fire  for  sometime,  and 
dien  bake  it.     Let  it  be  of  a  good  color. 

COD  BAKED.  (2)  Choose  a  fine  large 
cod,  clean  it  well,  and  open  the  under  part 
to  the  bone,  and  put  in  a  stufling  made  with 
beef  suet,  parsley,  sweet  herbs  slwed  fine,  an 
egg,  and  seasoned  w  itli  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
mace  and  grated  lemon-peel ;  put  this  inside 
die  cod,  sew  it  up,  wraji  it  in  a  buttered  pa- 
per, and  bake  it;  baste  it  well  with  melted 
buttei-. 

COD,  TO  CRIMP.  Cut  a  fresh  cod  in- 
to slices  or  steaks ;  lay  them  for  three  hours 
in  salt-and-water,  and  a  glass  of  vinegar: 
when  they  may  be  boiled,  fried,  or  broiled 


COF 


53 


COF 


CXDD  PIE.     See  Pie, 

COD  SOUNDS.  This  ia  the  white  skin 
of  the  belly,  and  is  reckoned  a  great  delica- 
cy, and  may  be  either  boiled,  broiled,  or 
fried.  Previous  to  dressing  either  way,  they 
should  be  well  soaked,  washed,  and  boiled  a 
little. 

COD  SOUNDS,  Boiled  with  Gra- 
vy. Scald  thera  in  hot  water,  and  rub  them 
well  with  salt ;  blanch  them,  that  is,  take  off 
tlie  blacked  dirty  skin,  then  set  them  on  in 
cold  water,  and  let  them  sinuner  till  they 
begin  to  be  tender ;  take  them  out,  flour,  and 
broil  them  on  the  gridiron.  In  the  mean- 
time, take  a  little  g^d  gra\7,  a  little  mus- 
tard, a  little  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  give 
it  a  boil,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Lay  the  sounds  in  your  dish,  and  pour  the 
sauce  over  them. 

COD  SOUNDS,  BROILED.  Let  them 
lie  in  boiling  water  till  it  is  nearly  cold,  rub 
them  with  salt,  and  pull  off"  the  black  and 
dirty  skin,  boil  tliem  in  hot  water,  drain, 
and  dust  them  with  flour,  rub  them  over 
with  butter,  season  with  white  pepper  and 
salt,  and  broil  them.  Put  a  table-spoonful 
of  catchup,  half  a  one  of  soy,  and  a  little  Cay- 
enne, into  melted  butter,  heat  and  pour  it  over 
them. 

COD  SOUNDS,  Roasted  or  Baked. 
Wash  and  clean  four  or  five  cod  sounds,  and 
boil  them  till  nearly  done  in  milk-and-water ; 
when  cold,  make  a  forcemeat  of  bread 
crumbs;  a  piece  of  butter,  salt,  nutmeg, 
white  pepper,  and  some  chopped  oysters; 
beat  up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  bind  it,  lay 
it  over  the  sounds,  roll  them  up,  and  fasten 
with  a  small  skewer,  baste  them  with  melted 
butter,  and  roll  them  in  finely  grated  bi-ead 
crumbs  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt;  put 
tliem  on  a  tin  in  a  Dutch  oven,  turn  and 
baste  them  with  a  feather  dipped  in  melted 
butter,  and  strew  over  bread  crumbs  as  be- 
fore ;  when  done,  and  of  a  nice  brown,  serve 
them  witli  oyster  sauce  in  the  dish. 

COD'S  HEAD  AND  SHOULDERS, 
TO  Boil.  Wash  it  clean;  tie  it  up,  and 
dry  it  with  a  cloth.  Allow  in  the  propor- 
tion of  every  three  measures  of  water,  one  of 
salt;  when  it  boils  take  off  the  scum;  put 
in  the  fish,  and  keep  it  boiling  very  fast  for 
twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes.  Serve  witli 
the  roe  and  milt  parboiled,  cut  into  slices, 
and  fried,  and  garnish  witli  curled  parsley 
and  horse-radish.  Sauces  ;-r-oyster,  melted 
butter,  or  anchovy  butter. 

COFFEE.      The    coffee-pot  should   be 
three  parts  full  of  boiling  water ;  tlie  coffee 
5* 


is  to  be  added  a  spoonfiil  at  a  time,  and  well 
stirred  between  each ;  then  boil  gently,  still 
stirring  to  prevent  the  mixtui-e  from  boiling 
over  as  the  coffee  swells,  and  to  force  it  into 
combination  with  the  water,  this  will  be  ef- 
fected in  a  few  minutes,  after  which,  the 
most  gentle  boiling  must  be  kept  up  during 
an  hour.  The  coffee  must  then  be  removed 
from  the  fire  to  settle,  one  or  two  spoonful* 
of  cold  water  thrown  in  assists  the  clarifica- 
tion, and  precipitates  the  grounds.  In  about 
an  hour,  or  as  soon  as  the  liquor  has  become 
clear,  it  is  to  be  poured  into  another  vessel, 
taking  care  not  to  disturb  the  sediment. 
Coffee  made  in  this  manner  will  be  of  the 
finest  flavor,  and  may  be  kept  three  days 
in  summer,  and  fom*  or  five  in  winter ;  when 
ordered  for  use,  it  only  requires  heating  in 
the  coffee-pot,  and  may  Ije  served  up  at  two 
minutes'  notice.  Coffee  should  never  be 
roasted  but  at  the  precise  time  of  its  being 
used,  and  then  it  should  be  watched  with 
the  greatest  care,  and  made  of  a  gold  color 
rather  than  a  brown  one ;  above  all,  take  care 
not  to  burn  it,  for  a  veiy  few  grains  bunit 
will  be  sufficient  to  communicate  a  bitter 
and  rancid  taste  to  several  pounds  of  coffee. 
It  is  the  best  way  to  roast  it  in  a  roaster, 
(over  a  charcoal  fire),  which  turns  with  the 
hand,  as  by  that  means  it  is  not  forgot,  which 
often  is  the  case  when  on  a  spit  before  the 
fire. 

COFFEE,  French  method  of 
preparing.  1st.  Let  your  coffee  be  dry, 
not  in  the  least  mouldy  or  damaged. — 2d. 
Divide  the  quantity  that  is  to  be  roasted  into 
two  parts. — 3d.  Roast  the  first  part  in  a 
coffee- roaster,  the  handle  of  which  must  be 
kept  constantly  turning  until  the  coffee  be- 
comes the  color  of  dried  almonds  or  bread- 
raspings,  and  has  lost  one  eigiith  of  its 
weight. — 4th.  Roast  the  second  part  until 
it  assumes  die  fine  brown  color  of  chestnuts, 
and  has  lost  one  fifth  of  its  weight. — 5th. 
Mix  the  two  parts  together,  and  grind  tliem 
in  a  coffee  mill, — 6!.h.  Do  not  roast  or  make 
your  coffee  until  the  day  it  is  wanted. — 7th. 
To  two  ounces  of  ground  coffee,  put  four 
cups  of  cold  water.  Draw  oft' this  infusion, 
and  put  it  aside. — 8th.  Put  to  the  coffee 
which  remains  in  the  biggin,  three  cups  o( 
boiling  water,  tlien  drain  it  off  and  add  this 
infusion  to  that  which  has  been  put  aside. 
By  this  metiiod  you  obtain  three  cups  more. 
When  your  coffee  is  wanted,  heat  it  quickly 
in  a  silver  coffee-pot,  taking  care  not  to  let 
it  boil,  that  the  perfume  may  not  be  lost  b^ 
undergoing  any  evaporation.  Then  pour  it 
into  cups,  which  each  person  may  sweeten 
according  to  his  taste.  Particular  care 
should  be  takeri  not  to  make  coffee  in  a  tin 
vessel ;  it  should  be  made  eidier  in  a  China 
vessel,  or  one  of  Delft  ware,  or  in  one  of 


COL 


54 


cou 


silver.  For  a  long  time,  the  tin  biggins,  in- 
vented by  Monsieur  de  Belloy,  were  made 
use  of;  but  some  person  has  since  improved 
upon  his  plan,  by  making  them  of  silver  or 
porcelain,  which  are  found  to  be  much  better. 

COFFEE  CREAM.  (1)  Mix  three 
cups  of  good  coffee  with  one  pint  of  cream, 
and  sugar  according  to  taste ;  boil  them  to- 
gether, and  reduce  them  about  one-third ; 
obser^'e  that  the  coffee  must  be  done  as  if  it 
was  for  drinking  alone,  and  settled  very  clear, 
before  you  mix  it  widi  the  cream. 

COFFEE  CREAM.  (2)  Boil  a  calf's 
foot  in  water  till  it  wastes  to  a  pint  of  jelly ; 
clear  off  the  sediment  and  fiit.  Make  a  tea- 
cup of  very  strong  coffee ;  clear  it  with  a 
bit  of  isinglass,  to  be  perfectly  bright;  pom- 
it  to  the  jelly,  and  add  a  pint  of  very  good 
cream,  and  as  much  fine  Lisbon  sugar  as  is 
pleasant;  give  one  boil  up,  and  pour  into 
the  dish.  It  should  jelly,  but 'not  be  stiff. 
Obser\'e  that  your  cofl'ee  be  fi-esb. 

COLLOPS.  Cut  some  veal  cutlets ;  fry 
them  a  good  brown,  but  not  too  much ;  take 
some  g(K)d  gravy,  diicken  it  with  a  little 
flour,  boil  it  a  few  minute? ;  add  Cayenne, 
catchup,  truffles,  morels,  salt,  mushrooms 
pickled,  grated  lemon-peel ;  simmer  this  up, 
just  heat  the  ccllops  through,  add  what  gravy 
came  from  them,  but  do  not  let  them  boil,  or 
they  will  be  hard;  add  forcemeat  balls,  hard 
yolk  of  eggs ;  lay  round  little  slices  of  ba- 
con, notched  and  toasted,  and  sliced  lemon. 

COLLOPS,  MINCED.  Cut  two 
pounds  of  lean  tender  beef  into  thin  slices — 
it  is  best  taken  from  off  die  rump,  or  round ; 
mince  it  vei"y  finely;  brown  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  dredging  it  with  a 
little  flour,  then  add  the  minced  meat,  and 
keep  beating  it  with  a  beater  till  of  a  nice 
brown  color.  Have  ready  some  highly-sea- 
soned beef  ^ravy,  which,  with  the  minced 
collo})s,  put  into  a  saucepan,  and  let  it  stew 
half  an  hour ;  and  just  before  serving,  put  a 
table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  and,  if 
liked,  some  green  pickles.  Beef  suet  is  as 
often  used  as  'butter  to  fry  the  col  lops  in. 

COLLOPS,  RUSSIAN.  Break  four  eggs 
into  a  stevvpan,  and  mix  with  them  two 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  dien  half  a  glass  of  good 
cream,  a  spoonful  of  warm  butter,  and  a 
grain  of  salt ;  when  these  ai'e  well  mixed  to- 
gether, pour  some  of  it  into  a  large  fi^ing-pan, 
and  fry  it  of  a  light  color  on  both  sides; 
then  taike  it  out,  and  fi-y  more  in  the  same 
way,  like  pancakes,  until  you  have  a  dozen 
very  Uiin,  cut  each  in  half,  and  trim  them 
into  oblong  pieces  all  die  same  size:  lay  on 
each  some  quenelle,  minced  fowl  or  game. 


as  if  for  croquettes;  wrap  the  fried  batter 
round  it,  wetting  the  ed^es,  that  they  may 
adhere  properly,  with  a  little  of  the  batter, 
having  reserved  some  for  the  purpose ;  then 
have  ready  beaten,  six  eggs  and  a  little  salt, 
mask  them  widi  bread-crumbs,  fry  diem  of  a 
good  color,    and  serve  them  quickly. 

COLLOPS,  SCOTCH.  Cut  veal  cut- 
lets (taken  from  the  fillet)  into  small  thin 
pieces,  and  fry  them  in  a  little  boiling  lard 
till  of  a  light  brown  color.  Drain  diem  dry, 
put  them  into  a  stevvpan,  add  cullis,  stewed 
mushrooms,  some  blanched  truffles,  morels, 
pieces  of  artichoke  bottoms,  some  slices  of 
throat  sweetbreads,  and  egg  balls.  Let 
diem  simmer  over  a  j^ow  fu'e  till  tender, 
season  to  the  palate,  and  serve  them  with 
rashers  of  broiled  bacon  round  them. 

COLD     MEAT     BROILED,    WITH 

Poached  Eggs.  The  inside  of  a  sirloin 
of  beef  is  best  for  this  dish,  or  a  leg  of  mut- 
ton. Cut  the  slices  of  even  and  equal  diick- 
iiess,  and  broil  and  brown  them  caiefully 
and  slightly  over  a  clear  smart  fire,  or  in  a 
Dutch  oven ;  give  those  slices  most  fire  that 
are  least  done ;  lay  them  in  a  dish  before  die 
fire  to  keep  hot,  while  you  poach  the  eggs, 
and  mash  potatoes. 

COLORING  FOR  JELLIES,  Cakes, 
&c.  For  a  beautiful  red,  boil  fifteen  grains 
of  cochineal  in  the  finest  powder,  with  a 
drachm  and  a  half  of  cream  of  taitar,  in 
half  a  pint  of  water  very  slowly,  half  an 
hour.  Add,  in  boiling,  a  bit  of  alum  the 
size  of  a  pea.  Or  use  lieet-nwt  sliced,  and 
some  liquor  pouted  over.  For  white,  use 
almonds  finely  {X)wdered  with  a  little  drop 
of  water ;  or  use  cream.  For  yeflotv,  yolks 
of  eggs,  or  a  bit  of  saffron  steeped  in  die  li- 
quor, and  squeezed.  For  green,  jxjund 
spinach-leaves,  or  beet-leaves,  express  the 
juice,  and  boil  a  tea-cupful  in  a  saucepan 
of  water,  to  take  off  the  rawness. 

CONSOMME.  Take  eight  or  ten 
pounds  of  be(;f-steaks,  eiglit  old  hens,  two 
young  ones,  and  four  knuckles  of  veal ;  put 
these  into  a  large  pot,  and  fill  it  with  stiong 
broth;  skim  it  well,  cooling  it  three  or  four 
times  to  make  the  scum  rise,  after  \>liich  let 
it  boil  gently ;  put  into  the  pot  carrots,  tw- 
nips,  onions,  and  three  cloves.  When  yotu- 
meat  is  sufficiently  .done,  pass  the  liquor 
through  a  fine  napkin  or  silk  sieve,  that  it 
may  be  very  clear.  No  salt  need  be  put  in 
if  strong  broth  be  used. 

COUGLAUFFLE,  GERMAN.     Take 

three  pounds  of  flour,  an  ounce  and  a  half 
of  yeast,  an  ounce  of  fine  salt,  a  quarter  of  a 
pomid  of  sugar,  twelve  eggs,  die  yolks  of 


cou 


55 


CRA 


twelve  more,  two  pounds  of  fresh  butter, 
three  glasses  of  milk,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds.  Proceed  with 
these  materials  in  the  following  manner: — 
put  the  butter  (having  slightly  wanned  half 
a  pound  of  it),  into  a  glazed  pan,  and  with 
a  large  wooden  spoon  work  it  up  for  six  or 
seven  minutes ;  then  put  in  two  whole  eggs, 
and  stir  it  two  minutes ;  then  add  three  yolks, 
and  stir  again  two  minutes;  in  this  manner 
put  in  the  whole  number  of  eggs  and  yolks; 
which  will  produce  a  kind  of  smooth  cream. 
Then  by  degrees  mix  in  two  pounds  of  the 
flour,  dissolve  the  yeast  in  a  glass  of  warm 
milk,  sti'ain  it  through  a  napkin,  stir  this  in 
well,  with  another  half  pound  of  flour; 
make  a  hollow  in  the  paste,  in  which  put 
tlae  salt  and  sugar  in  powder;  afterwards 
pour  on  it  a  glass  of  hot  milk,  and  mix  the 
whole  together  with  the  remainder  of  the 
flour;  continue  to  work  it  up  for  some  min- 
utes after  the  whole  ingredients  are  put  in, 
adding  a  small  quantity  of  warm  milk,  which 
will  render  it  smooth.  Have  a  mould  ready, 
butter  it,  and  lay  the  sweet  almonds,  each 
cat  in  half,  over  the  bottom  of  tlie  mould,  in 
forms,  on  which  pour  the  paste  carefully, 
and  in  small  quantities,  so  as  not  \o  derange 
the  almonds.  Place  your  mould  m  a  warm, 
but  not  a  hot  place,  that  the  cake  may  rise 
projjcrly ;  and  when  tliat  operation  has  taken 
place,  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  which 
should  be  kept  closed;  in  an  hour's  time 
look  at  the  Couglauffle,  and  if  it  be  flexible, 
and  of  a  light  color,  let  it  remain  thirty  or 
forty  minutes  longer ;  but  if  it  be  firm  and 
red  it  is  sufficiently  done;  when  taken  from 
the  mould,  put  it  into  the  oven  again  for  a 
few  minutes. 

COUGLAUFFLES,    SMALL.        To 

make  a  dozen  small  couglauffles,  take  three 
quarters  of  a  |>ound  of  flour,  three  drachms 
of  yearit,  two  of  salt,  two  whole  eggs,  three 
yolks,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  a  little  cream, 
and  half  a  pound  of  butter.  The  prepara- 
tion is  made  tlie  same  as  the  German  Cou- 
glauffle. When  the  paste  is  made,  divide 
it  into  twelve  equal  parts;  butter  a  dozen 
stnall  biscuit  moulds,  and  fill  each  with  your 
preparation,  and  let  them  stand:  when  risen 
8o  as  to  fill  the  moulds,  put  them  into  a 
brisk  oven,  and  take  them  out  as  soon  as 
they  are  of  a  light  color. 

COUQUES.  Put  into  a  saucepan  the 
yolks  of  sixteen  eggs,  the  rinds  of  two  lem- 
ons, half  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  two  ounces 
of  sugar;  on  these  pour  a  pint  of  boiling 
cream,  stirring  it  quick ;  set  it  on  the  fire, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil,  strain  it  through  a 
bolting,  and  then  let  it  cool;  take  two 
pounds  of  flour,  and  make  a  quarter  of  it 


into  leaven  with  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and 
a  little  warm  water,  keep  it  rather  moist, 
and  put  it  into  a  warm  place  to  rise:  in  the 
meantime,  make  the  remainder  of  the  flour 
into  a  paste,  with  the  cream  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  knead  it  up  five  or  six 
times;  then  put  in  the  leaven,  and  knead  it 
again  twice;  tie  it  up  in  a  floured  clotli,  and 
set  it  in  a  warm  place.  In  about  two  hours 
take  it  out,  and  cut  the  paste  in  pieces  tlie 
size  of  an  egg,  form  them  to  that  shape,  and 
lay  them  on  a  baking  tin,  and  leave  them 
for  half  an  hour  to  rise,  then  gild  and 
bake  them  in  a  hot  oven ;  when  done,  open 
each  on  one  side,  take  out  a  little  of  the 
crumb,  in  the  place  of  which  put  a  bit  of 
butter  worked  up  with  a  little  salt,  and 
serve  them. 

COURT  BOUILLON.  Cut  a  proper 
quantity  of  carrots,  onions,  celeiy,  and  tur- 
nips, and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  widi 
butter,  parsley,  garlic,  thyme,  basil,  salt,  a 
mignonette  and  cloves ;  sweat  them  over  a 
gentle  fire;  add  white  wine,  vinegar  or 
verjuice ;  boil,  and  then  strain  it,  and  serve 
it  with  whatever  you  may  require  it  for. 
It  is  generally  used  for  fish. 

COURT  BOUILLON  for  all 
SORTS  OF  Fresh  Water  Fish.  Put 
some  water  into  a  fish-kettle,  with  a  quart 
of  white  wine,  a  slice  of  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
a  large  bunch  of  parsley  and  young  onions,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  thyme,  bay-leaves,  and  basil 
all  tied  together,  some  sliced  onions  and 
some  carrots ;  boil  the  fish  in  tliis  court 
bouillon,  (which  will  serve  for  several  times) 
and  do  not  scale  it ;  when  the  fish  will  ad- 
mit of  it,  take  care  to  boil  it  wrapped  in  a 
napkin,  which  makes  it  more  easy  to  take 
out  without  danger  of  breaking. 

COW-HEEL,  In  the  hands  of  a  skilful 
cook,  will  fin-nish  several  good  meals;  when 
boiled  tender,  cut  it  into  handsome  pieces, 
egg  and  bread-cinimb  them,  and  fry  them  a 
light  brown;  lay  them  round  a  dish,  and  put 
in  the  middle  of  it  sliced  onions  fi-ied,  or  the 
accompaniments  ordered  for  tripe.  The 
liquor  they  were  boiled  in  will  make 
soups. 

CRACKNELS.  Mix  a  quart  of  flour, 
half  a  nutmeg  grated,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs 
beaten,  with  four  spoonfiils  of  rosewater,  into 
a  stiff  paste,  with  cold  water ;  then  rub  in  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  make  into  a  cracknel 
shape;  put  tliem  into  a  kettle  of  l?oiling 
water,  and  boil  them  till  they  swim ;  then 
take  them  out,  and  put  them  into  cold  water; 
when  hardened,  lay  them  out  to  dry,  and 
bake  them  on  tin  plates. 


CRE 


56 


CRE 


CRACKNELS,  small  soft.  Blanch 
half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  pound 
tliem  to  a  fine  paste,  adding  to  them  by  de- 
grees six  eggs ;  when  thoroughly  pounded, 
pour  on  them  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  the 
same  of  butter,  and  the  rinds  of  two  lemons 
grated;  beat  up  these  ingredients  in  the 
mortar:  put  a  pound  of  flour  on  a  slab,  and 
having  poured  the  almond  pziste  on  it,  knead 
them  together  until  tliey  are  well  incorporat- 
ed ;  roll  it  out,  and  cut  the  cracknels  into 
such  forms  as  you  may  think  proper,  rub 
tliem  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  strew  over  them 
powder-sugar  or  ciimamon:  then  lay  them 
on  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  them  in  a  mode- 
rate oven,  taking  great  care  that  they  do  not 
burn.  When  done,  put  them  into  glasses, 
and  if  preserved  in  a  dry  place  they  are  the 
better  for  keeping. 

CRANBERRIES,  Different  ways 
OF  DRESSING.  For  pies  and  puddings, 
with  a  good  deal  of  sugar.  Stewed  in  a 
jar,  with  the  same ;  this  way  they  eat  well 
with  bread,  and  are  very  wholesome.  Thus 
done,  pressed,  and  strained,  the  juice  makes 
a  fine  drink  for  people  in  fevers. 

CREAM,  ALMOND.  Blanch  and 
pound  to  a  paste,  with  rose  water,  six 
ounces  of  almonds,  mix  them  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  cream  which  has  been  boiled 
with  the  peel  of  a  small  lemon ;  add  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  stir  the  whole  over 
the  fire  till  it  be  thick,  taking  care  not  to 
allow  it  to  boil ;  sweeten  it,  and  when  near- 
ly cold,  stir  in  a  table-spoonful  of  orange- 
flower  or  rose  water. 

CREAM,  APPLE.  (1)  Boil  twelve 
large  apples  in  water  till  soft,  take  off"  the 
peel,  and  press  the  pulp  through  a  hair  sieve 
upon  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar ; 
whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  add  them  to 
the  apples,  and  beat  all  together  till  it  be- 
comes very  stiff,  and  looks  quite  white. 
Serve  it  heaped  up  on  a  dish. 

CREAM,  APPLE.  (2)  Peel  and  core 
five  large  apples ;  boil  them  in  a  little  water, 
till  soft  enough  to  press  through  a  sieve; 
sweeten,  and  beat  with  them  the  whisked 
whites  of  five  eggs.  Serve  it  with  cream 
poured  round  it. 

CREAM,  ARROW-ROOT.  Mix  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  aiTow-root  with  a  tea-cupful 
of  cold  water ;  let  it  settle,  and  pour  the  wa- 
ter off.  Sweeten  and  boil  a  quart  of  milk 
with  the  peel  of  a  lemon  and  some  cinnamon ; 
pick  them  out,  and  pour  it  boiling  upon  the 
arrow-root,  stirring  it  well  and  frequently 
till  it  be  cold.  Serve  it  in  a  glass  or  china 
dish,  with  or  without  grated  nutmeg  on  the 


top.     It  may  be  eaten  with  any  preserved 
fruit,  or  fruit  tarts. 

CREAM,  BACCHIC.  Put  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  white  wine,  with  some  lemon-peel, 
coriander  seed,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  three 
ounces  of  sugar,  into  a  stewpan,  and  let 
them  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  tlien  mix 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour  with  the  yolks  of 
six  eggs  in  another  stewpan,  and  stir  in  by 
degrees  the  other  previously  boiled  ingre- 
dients. When  about  half  cold,  strain  the 
whole  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  in  a  dish 
in  hot  water,  over  the  fire,  till  the  cream  is 
set ;  lastly,  take  it  out,  and  put  it  in  a  cool 
place  till  ready  to  serve. 

CREAM,  BARLEY.  Boil  a  small  quan- 
tity of  pearl  barley  in  milk  and  water,  till 
tender,  strain  oflf  the  liquor,  and  put  tlie 
barley  into  a  quart  of  cream,  to  boil  a  little. 
Then  take  the  whites  of  five  eggs  and  the 
yolk  of  one,  beat  them  with  one  spoonful  of 
flour,  and  two  of  orange-flower  water.  Take 
the  cream  from  the  fire,  mix  the  eggs  in  by 
degrees,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  again  to 
thicken.  Sweeten  it,  and  pour  into  cups  or 
glasses  for  use. 

CREAM,  BURNT.  Boil  a  pint  of  cream 
with  tbe  peel  of  a  lemon,  sweeten  it  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar ;  beat,  with  the  yolks  of 
six,  and  whites  of  four  eggs,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour,  the  same  of  orange-flower  w  ater 
and  of  ratafia;  strain  tlie  cream,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  mix  it  with  the  eggs  and  otlier 
things ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  as 
thick  as  a  custard ;  put  it  into  the  dish  it  is 
to  be  served  in.  Boil  with  a  little  water 
some  pounded  loaf  sugar,  till  it  turn  brown, 
but  do  not  stir  it  till  taken  off  the  fire ;  by 
degrees  pour  it  in  figures  over  the  top  of  the 
cream.     It  may  be  eaten  hot  or  cold. 

CREAM  CAKES.     See  Cakes. 

CREAM,  CHOCOLATE.  (1)  Take 
a  pint  of  milk,  a  gill  of  cream,  the  ynlks  of 
three  eggs,  and  five  ounces  of  povv  der  sugiir, 
mix  these  ingredients  together,  set  them  on 
the  fire,  stir  it  constantly,  and  let  it  boil  till 
reduced  to  a  quarter ;  then  add  two  ounces 
of  grated  chocolate  ;  and  having  boiled  a  lit- 
tie  longer,  strain  it,  and  let  it  cool.  Serve 
it  cold. 

CREAM,  CHOCOLATE.  (2)  Take 
about  half  a  cake  of  chocolate,  bruise  it  to 
pieces,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  widi  a  little  milk, 
and  stir  it  over  a  gentle  fire  till  it  looks 
smooth  and  thick;  then  add  a  little  more 
milk,  and  stir  it  again  over  the  fire;  con- 
tinue this  till  it  takes  tlie  thickness  of  cream; 


CRE 


57 


CRE 


sweeten  it  to  your  palate  with  clarified  su-' 
gar;  stir  in  a  little  tiiick  cream  with  a  very 
Uttle  isinglass,  rub  it  through  the  tammy, 
and  set  it  in  the  mould. 

CREAM  CUSTARD.     See  Custard. 

CREAM  FRITTERS.  Mix  a  handful 
of  flour,  with  three  whole  eggs,  and  the  yolks 
of  six,  four  pounded  macaroons,  some  dried 
orange-flowers,  browned  in  sugar,  a  little 
candied  lemon-peel  chopped  veiy  fine,  half 
a  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a 
lump  of  sugar ;  boil  die  whole  over  a  gentle 
fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  till  the  cream 
turns  to  a  thick  paste ;  then  let  it  cool  in  a 
dish  well  floured,  shaking  flour  all  over  it. 
When  cold,  cut  the  paste  into  small  pieces, 
roll  them  in  your  hands  till  diey  become 
round,  and  fry  them  of  a  good  color;  when 
you  serve  them,  piowder  them  all  over  with 
sugar. 

CREAM  FROTH.  Put  a  pint  of  fresh 
double  cream  into  a  stone  pan,  with  half  a 
pound  of  powder  sugar,  a  pinch  of  gum 
dragon,  a  little  crisped  orange-flower,  and 
three  drops  of  cedrat  essence ;  when  the  su- 
gar is  dissolved,  place  the  pan  in  another,  in 
which  is  three  pounds  of  ice  beaten  up  with 
saltpetre ;  whip  die  cream  in  Uie  usual  man- 
ner, taking  off"  the  froth  as  it  rises  with  a 
skimmer,  lay  it  gently  on  a  sieve  over  a 
pan ;  if  the  cream  does  not  froth  properly, 
add  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  This  cream  is 
usually  served  in  large  silver  or  gilt  goblets, 
and  should  be  prepared  two  or  three  hours 
before  it  is  wanted. 

CREAM  FOR  FRUIT  TARTS.  Boil 
a  stick  of  cinnamon,  two  or  three  peach 
leaves,  or  a  few  bruised  bitter  almonds,  in  a 
quart  of  milk;  sti*ain,  sweeten,  and  mix  it, 
when  cool,  with  three  or  four  well-beaten 
eggs;  stir  it  constantly  over  die  fire  till  it 
tiiickens.  It  may  be  eaten  with  stewed 
apples,  pj-unes,  damsons,  or  any  other  fruit. 

CREAM,  IMPERIAL.  Boil  a  quart  of 
cream  with  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon ;  then 
Btir  it  till  nearly  cold;  have  ready  in  a 
dish  or  bowl  that  you  are  to  sei've  in, 
tlie  juice  of  three  lemons  strained,  with  as 
much  sugar  as  will  sweeten  die  cream,  which 
pour  into  the  dish  from  a  large  teapot,  hold- 
ing it  high,  and  moving  it  about  to  mix  with 
the  juice.  It  should  be  made  at  least  six 
hours  before  it  is  served,  and  will  be  still 
better  if  a  day. 

CREAM  ITALIAN.  (1)  Boil  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  milk  in  a  stewpan,  then  add  to  it 
the  peel  of  a  young  lemon,  some  coriander 
seed,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  rather  more  than 


half  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  two 
or  three  grains  of  salt ;  let  it  boil  till  half  ig 
consumed;  then  let  it  stand  to  cool,  and 
have  ready  in  another  stewpan  a  little  flour, 
beat  up  with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs ;  stir  it 
by  degrees  into  the  cream ;  strain  it  through 
a  sieve,  and  put  it  in  the  dish  for  table, 
p'acing  the  dish  in  some  hot  water  over  the 
fire  till  the  cream  is  set.  Before  serving, 
brown  with  a  salamander. 

CREAM  ITALIAN.  (2)  Put  a  gill  of 
good  fresh  cream,  two  eggs,  three  spoonfiils 
of  powder-sugar,  and  a  little  orange-Hower 
water,  into  a  pan,  and  whip  them  up  togeth- 
er ;  and  when  the  cream  is  sufficiently  thick, 
put  it  into  a  deep  dish,  with  plenty  of  pow- 
der-sugar; set  it  on  hot  ashes,  cover  it,  and 
lay  hot  ashes  on  the  top,  which  must  be 
renewed  until  the  cream  is  done  enough; 
then  let  it  cool,  and  serve  it. 

CREAM,  LEMON.  Steep  the  thinly- 
pared  rinds  of  four  large  lemons  in  a  pint  of 
water  for  twelve  hours;  str-ain,  and  dissolve 
in  it  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  loaf 
sugar,  add  the  juice  of  the  lemons  strained, 
and  the  well-beaten  whites  of  seven,  and  the 
yolk,  of  one  egg.  Boil  it  over  a  slow  fii'e, 
stirring  it  constantly  one  way,  till  it  is  like 
a  thick  cream ;  pour  it  into  a  glass  or  china 


CREAM,  ORANGE.  (1)  Squeeze  and 
strain  the  juice  of  eleven  oranges,  sweeten 
it  well  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  stir  it  over 
a  slow  fire  till  the  sugar  be  dissolved,  and 
take  off*  the  scum  as  it  rises ;  when  cold, 
mix  it  with  die  well-beaten  yolks  of  twelve 
eggs,  to  which  a  pint  of  cream  has  been 
added ;  stir  it  again  over  the  fire  till  thick. 
Serve  in  a  glass  dish  or  custard-cups. 

CREAM,  ORANGE.  (2)  Sweeten, 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quart  of  good 
cream;  mix  with  it  a  small  wine-glass  of 
orange-flower  water,  the  grated  rind  and 
the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange;  whisk  jt  till 
quite  diick;  soak  some  macaroons  in  white 
wine,  and  pile  them  in  the  middle  of  a  glass 
or  china  disli,  and  heap  the  whipped  cream 
over  them  as  high  as  possible.  Some  hours 
after,  ornament  it  with  slices  of  green  citron 
cut  into  straws,  and  stuck  into  the  cream. 

CREAM,  RATAFIA.  In  a  tea-cupful 
of  thin  cream  boil  two  or  three  large  laurel, 
or  young  peach  leaves ;  when  it  has  boiled 
three  or  four  minutes,  strain,  and  mix  with 
it  a  pint  of  rich  sweet  cream ;  add  three  well- 
beaten  whites  of  eggs,  and  sweeten  it  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan, 
and  stir  it  gendy  one  way  over  a  slow  fire 
till  it  be  thick ;  poui'  it  into  a  china  dish. 


CRE 


68 


CRE 


and  when  quite  cold,  ornament  it  with  sweet- 
meats cut  out  like  flowers;  or  strew  over 
the  top  harlequin  comfits. 

CREAM,  RASPBERRY.     (1)  Mix  a 

little  pounded  loaf  sugar  with  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  good  'cream,  about  a  tea-cupful  of 
raspberry  jelly,  the  grated  rind  of  one,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  beat  it  well  to- 
gether, and,  with  a  syllabub  mill,  mill  it 
slowly  for  half  an  hour,  or  till  it  be  thick  and 
solid.  Put  it  into  a  glass  dish,  or  serve  it  in 
custard  glasses. 

CREAM,  RASPBERRY.  (2)  Put  six 
ounces  of  raspberry  jam  to  a  quart  of  cream, 
pulp  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  mix  it  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  sugar,  and 
whisk  it  till  tliick.  Sene  it  in  a  dish  or 
Iflasses.  Strawberry  cream  may  be  made 
m  the  same  way.  For  common  use,  substi- 
tute good  milk  for  the  cream. 

CREAM,  RED  CURRANT.  (1)  Pick 
tiie  currants  from  the  stalks,  put  ihera  into  a 
jar  closely  covered,  and  stand  it  in  a  pan 
of  cold  water ;  let  it  boil  for  two  hours,  strain 
the  juice  tlii-ough  a  sieve,  and  sweeten  it 
well  widi  pounded  loaf  sugar.  When  cold, 
add  a  quart  of  cream  to  a  pint  of  juice,  and 
beat  it  with  a  whisk  till  thick.  Serve  in  a 
deep  glass  dish. 

CREAM,  RED  CURRENT.  (2) 
Squeeze  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  juice 
from  red  currants  when  full  ripe,  add  to  it 
rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  one 
lemon ;  stir  it  into  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream, 
and  whisk  it  till  quite  ^ick. 

CREAM  ROSEAT,  Beat  to  a  stiff 
froth  the  whites  of  four  eggs ;  sweeten  and 
boil  a  pint  of  good  milk,  drop  about  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  froth  into  it,  turn  it 
over  once  or  twice  with  the  spoon,  take  it 
out,  and  put  it  upon  the  back  of  a  lawn  sieve 
placed  over  a  large  plate ;  repeat  diis  till  it 
is  all  done;  add  to  the  milk  another  half 
pint,  with  a  little  more  sugar,  and  mix  it 
witli  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  thick;  put  it  into  a  basin, 
apd  stir  now  and  then  till  nearly  cold;  add 
a  tablerspoonful  of  rose  water,  and  one  of 
brandy.  Serve  it  in  a  glass  dish,  and  lay 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  over  the  top  at  equal 
distances.  Cut  citron  and  candied  orange- 
peel  into  straws,  and  put  them  over  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  or  strew  over  them  color- 
ed comfits. 

CREAM  OF  RICE  SOUP.     Mix  one 

or  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour  of  rice 
>yitb  a  little  good  stock,  rather  cold  than 


hot;  add  this  to  some  boiling  stock,  and 
keep  stirring  till  it  boils;  and  let  it  boil  till 
suflSciently  thick.  The  flour  of  rice  may  be 
made  as  follows: — Wash  in  several  waters 
a  pound  of  rice;  wipe  it  in  a  clean  towel, 
and  when  perfectly  dry  poimd  and  sift  it 
through  a  sieve. 

CREAM,  SNOW.  Take  a  pint  of  fresh 
cream,  and  mix  with  it  eight  spoonfuls  of 
powder-sugar,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and 
a  spoonful  of  orange-flower  water,  or  any 
other  aromatic  ingredient  you  like  better; 
whip  it,  and  remove  the  froth  or  snow  in 
the  usual  way.  This  cream  may  be  colored 
according  to  your  fancy,  with  safeon,  car- 
mine, or  indigo. 

CREAM,  SOLID.  Squeeze  the  juice 
of  a  large  lemon  upon  three  or  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  brandy,  and  one  pint  of 
cream ;  pour  it  from  one  cup  into  another, 
till  it  be  sufficiently  thick. 

CREAM,  SPANISH.  Boil,  in  half  a 
pint  of  water,  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  till 
dissolved;  strain,  and  mix  it  with  a  quart 
of  cream  or  good  milk ;  if  cream,  not  so 
much  isinglass;  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it 
come  to  a  boil ;  when  a  little  cooled,  add 
gi-adually  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  a 
glass  of  white  wine.  Pour  it  into  a  deep 
dish,  sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  stir 
it  till  cold,  and  then  put  it  into  a  shape. 

CREAM,  STONE.  Put  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  and  the  grated  peel 
of  one,  some  preserved  apricots,  or  any  other 
sweetmeat,  into  a  glass  or  China  dish.  Boil 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a  little 
water,  till  dissolved ;  add  it  to  a  pint  of  cream, 
sweetened  well  with  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
boil  it,  and  stir  it  all  the  time ;  pour  it  into 
a  jug,  stir  it  now  and  then  till  milk- warm, 
then  |X)ur  it  over  the  sweetmeat  round  and 
round.  It  may  be  made  the  day  before 
being  served. 

CREAM,  SWISS.  (1)  Boil  the  grated 
peel  of  a  large  lemon,  and  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  in  a  pint  of 
cream ;  stjueeze  the  juice  of  the  lemon  upon 
a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  work  it  well  togeth- 
er, and  gradually  add  to  it  the  boiling  cream, 
and  heat  it  all  over  tlie  fire;  pour  it  into  a 
basin,  and  when  nearly  cold,  put  it  into  a 
glass  or  China  dish,  and  garnish  it  with 
candied  orange-peel,  and  citron  cut  into 
straws.  This  cream  requires  to  be  constant- 
ly stiiTed  till  it  is  put  into  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  to  be  served. 

CREAM,  SWISS.    (2)  Whisk  upon 


CRO  59 

a  hot  plate,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  half  a 
pound  of  finely-pounded  sugar,  tJhe  gi-ated 
rind  of  a  lemon,  and  half  a  pint  of  light 
French  or  Rhenish  white  wine,  and  send  it 
warm  to  table. 

CREAM  TART.    See  Tart. 

CREAM,  WHIPPED.  Sweeten,  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quart  of  cream,  and 
add  to  it  a  lump  of  sugar  which  has  been 
rubbed  upon  the  peel  of  two  fine  lemons  or 
bitter  oranges;  or  flavor  it  with  orange- 
flower  water,  a  little  essence  of  roses,  the 
juice  of  ripe  sti-awberries,  or  of  any  other 
fruit.  Whisk  the  cream  well  in  a  large  pan, 
and  as  the  frotii  rises,  take  it  off",  and  lay  it 
upon  a  sieve  placed  over  another  pan,  and 
return  the  cream  which  drains  from  the  froth, 
till  all  is  whisked,  then  heap  it  upon  a  dish, 
or  put  it  into  glasses.  Garnish  with  thinly- 
pared  citron,  or  cedrat  cut  into  small  leaves, 
or  into  any  fanciful  shape.  To  color  the 
rose  cream,  or  to  heighten  that  of  strawber- 
ry, a  little  carmine  or  lake  may  be  mixed 
with  tlie  cream,  which  may  be  iced  wlien 
made. 

CREAM,  WHITE  LEMON.  (1)  Rub, 
with  some  lumps  of  loaf  sugar,  tlie  rinds  of 
six  lemons,  and  grate  off  the  remainder; 
squeeze  and  sti-ain  the  juice,  and  add  tlie 
grated  peel  and  sugar,  with  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar ;  put  to  this 
a  quart  of  rich  cream,  and  whisk  it  till  very 
tliick.  The  following  day,  soak  five  or  six 
sponge  biscuits  in  white  wine,  and  put  over 
tliem  the  cream. 

CREAM,  WHITE  LEMON.  (2)  Boil 
the  thin  peel  of  two  lemons  in  a  pint  of 
cream ;  strain,  and  thicken  it  with  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  three,  and  whites  of  four 
eggs ;  sweeten  it  with  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
stir    it    till    neai-ly  cold,  and  put   it  into 


/m.'z'^' 


CROQUANTE  OF  PASTE.  Roll  out 
paste,  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick; 
rub  over  a  plain  mould  with  a  little  fresh 
butter;  lay  on  the  paste  very  even,  and 
equally  diin  on  both  sides ;  pare  it  round  the 
rim;  then  with-  a  small  penknife  cut  out 
small  pieces,  as  fancy  may  direct,  such  as 
diamonds,  stars,  circles,  sprigs,  &c. ;  or  use 
a  small  tin  cutter  of  any  shape:  let  it  lie  to 
dry  sometime,  and  bake  it  a  few  minutes  in 
a  slack  oven,  of  a  light  color:  remove  it 
from  the  mould,  and  place  it  over  a  tart,  or 
any  other  dish  of  small  pastry. 

CROQUE.  These  are  large  pieces  of 
ornamental  confectionary,  formed  of  various 
materials,  as  gimbleiles,  croquignole8,gen- 


oisea,  ^c,  or  iJ( otfanges,  cut-  i  ._    . , 

chestnuts,  gree^  nuts,  &c.,  arranged  with*  Vta 
in  moulds  according  to  fency,  aud  cemenl^l>'^ 
together  with  boiled  sugsu-. 

CROQUETS.  Pound,  in  a  raaiWe 
moi-tar,  cold  veal  and  fowl,  with  a  little  suet, 
some  chopped  lemon-peel,  lemon  tliyme, 
chives,  and  parsley.  Season  with  nutmeg, 
pepper,  and  salt ;  mix  all  well  together,  and 
add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  well -beaten ;  roll  it 
into  balls,  and  dip  tliem  into  an  egg  beaten 
up,  then  sift;  bread  crumbs  over  tliem,  and 
fi-y  them  in  butter. 

CROQUETTES  OF  BOILED  MEAT. 

Mince  some  boiled  meat  very  small;  add  to 
it  some  sausage-meat,  mashed  potatoes, 
crumbs  of  bread,  soaked  in  milk,  and  sweet 
herbs ;  make  them  into  a  paste,  and  form  i* 
into  little  balls ;  roll  them  in  very  fine  rasp- 
ings, and  fry  them  of  a  nice  color.  Serve 
them  with  sauce  piquante. 

CROQUETS  OF  SWEETBREADS. 
Mince  some  cold  sweed)reads,  which  have 
been  dressed,  and  boil  them  in  a  sauce  ve- 
loute ;  when  quite  cold,  form  them  into  balls, 
or  into  rolls,  about  two  inches  long ;  fry  and 
serve  them  with  fried  parsley  in  die  middle. 
Or,  make  tlie  croquet  meat  into  a  rissole. 
Roll  out  a  piece  of  thin  puff  paste,  enclose 
the  meat  in  it,  brush  it  over  with  a  beaten 
egg,  and  strew  over  it  grated  bread ;  fry  it 
of  a  light  brown  color. 

CRUMPETS.  (1)  Make  a  pint  of 
warm  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  yeast  broth, 
strained  into  a  su-ong  batter,  witii  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  flour;  cover,  and  set  it  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise ;  dien  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  warm  milk,  an  ounce  of  butter 
worked  up  in  a  little  flour,  but  only  flour 
enough  to  prevent  the  batter  from  being  too 
diin ;  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  have  Uie  iron 
rings  ready  on  a  plate  of  iron  over  a  stove; 
pour  the  batter  into  these  rings,  and  bake 
them. 

CRUMPETS,  OR  PIKELETS.     (2) 

Set  a  sponge  as  for  bread,  excepting  Uiat 
half  milk  and  half  water  must  be  used ;  and 
to  every  half-quartern  of  flour,  two  eggs 
must  be  added;  beat  the  eggs  thoroughly. 
Bake  them  in  rings  as  usual. 

CRUST,  FOR  VENISON  PASTY. 

Work  into  a  paste  with  warm  water,  two 
pounds  and  a  half  of  butter,  a  peck  of  fine 
flour,  and  four  eggs;  work  it  smooth,  and 
to  a  good  consistence.  The  paste  should  be 
put  round  the  inside,  but  not  at  the  bottom 
of  the  dish ;  let  tlie  cover  be  tolerably  thick, 
to  bear  the  long  continuance  in  tlie  oven. 


cue 


60 


CUL 


CRUST,  RAISED.  (1)  Melt,  in  one 
pint  of  water,  one  pound  of  fresh  lard ;  weigh 
four  pounds  of  flour,  put  it  into  a  basin,  and 
when  tlie  water  and  lard  is  liot,  with  a  horn 
spoon  stir  it  by  degrees  amongst  die  flour. 
When  well  mixed,  work  it  widi  the  hands 
till  it  is  a  stifi"  paste,  when  it  is  fit  for  use. 

CRUST,  RAISED.  (2)  Put  into  a 
saucepan  one  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  four 
pounds  of  flour,  and  four  ounces  and  a  half 
of  butter;  stir  it  till  it  is  a  thick  paste,  take 
it  out,  and  add  Uie  yolks  of  diree  or  four 
beaten  eggs ;  work  it  well  togedier,  roll  it 
out  raUier  more  dian  half  an  inch  diick ; 
cut  out  die  top  and  bottom,  and  a  long  piece 
of  proper  depth  for  die  sides.  Brush  round 
die  bottom  widi  well-beaten  whites  of  eggs ; 
set  on  the  sides,  keeping  die  paste  radier 
widiiii  die  edge  of  the  bottom ;  pinch  it  all 
round,  to  make  the  pieces  adhere,  dien  fill 
the  pie,  and  brush  round  the  upper  sides  of 
the  crust  and  die  outer  edges  of  die  cover 
with  egg ;  lay  on  the  cover,  pinch  it  round 
neatly,  and  ornament  it  according  to  fancy 
widi  leaves,  festoons,  or  chains  of  rings 
made  of  the  paste. 

CRUST  SHORT.  (1)  Pound,  sift, 
and  diy  two  ounces  of  white  sugar;  then 
mix  it  widi  a  jMJund  of  well  dried  flour,  rub- 
bing into  it,  so  fine  as  not  to  be  seen,  three 
ounces  of  butter ;  dien  put  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  into  some  cream,  and  mix  die  whole 
into  a  smooth  paste;  roll  it  out  diin,  and 
bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CRUST  SHORT,  not  sweet,  but 
RICH.  (2)  Mix  into  a  stiffish  paste,  us- 
ing as  little  water  as  }X)ssible,  six  ounces  of 
butler,  widi  eight  ounces  of  fine  flour,  (rub- 
bing the  butter  well  into  the  flour,  before 
mixing  it  widi  die  water)  beat  it  well,  and 
ix)ll  it  thin.  This  crust  is  proper  as  well  as 
the  above,  for  tarts  of  fresh  or  preserved 
fiuits.     Let  it  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CUCUMBERS  STEWED.  Peel  and 
cot  cucuml)ers  in  quarters,  take  out  the  seeds, 
and  lay  diein  on  a  clodi  to  drain  off  die  wa- 
ter: when  they  are  dry,  flour  and  fry  them 
in  fresh  butter ;  let  the  butter  be  quite  hot 
before  you  put  in  the  cucumbers ;  fiy  diem 
till  diey  are  brown,  dien  take  them  out  with 
an  egg-slice,  and  lay  them  on  a  sieve  to 
drain  the  fat  fi-om  diem  (some  cooks  fry 
sliced  onions,  or  some  small  button  onions, 
widi  diem,  till  diey  are  a  delicate  light 
brown  color,  drain  them  from  the  fat,  and 
tlien  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  as  much 
gravy  as  will  cover  diem):  stew  slowly  till 
they  are  tender;  take  out  the  cucumbers 
widi  a  slice,  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour 
and  butter,  give  it  a  boil  u{),  season  it  widi 


pepper  and  salt,  and  put  in  die  cucumbers; 
as  soon  as  diey  are  warm,  they  are  ready. 
The  above,  rubljed  through  a  tamis,  or  fine 
sieve,  will  be  entitled  to  be  called  "  cucum- 
ber sauce."  See  Cucumber  Vinegar.  This 
is  a  very  favorite  sauce  with  lamb  or  mutton- 
cutlets,  stewed  rump-steaks,  &c.  &c.:  when 
made  for  die  latter,  a  diird  part  of  sliced 
onion  is  sometimes  fried  widi  tlie  cucurabei . 

CUCUMBERS  AND  ONIONS,  SLIC- 
ED. Cut  full-grown  cucumbers  into  slices 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  slice 
some  onions  thin;  dien  lay  them  into  a  dish 
together,  and  strew  salt  over  them;  cover 
them  with  another  dish,  and  let  them  re- 
main for  twenty-four  hours.  Put  them  in- 
to a  cullender  to  drain,  then  into  a  large  jar, 
and  pour  over  diem  boiled  vinegar,  tliree 
successive  days ;  die  last  time  of  boiling  the 
vinegar  add  pepper  and  ginger,  pour  it  over 
them  hot,  and  closely  cover  them  when  cold. 

CUCUMBER  MANGOES.  Cut  a  long 
narrow  piece  out  of  the  sides  of  large  Tur- 
key cucumbers,  scoop  out  the  seeds,  and 
with  a  part  of  them  mix  some  mustard  seed, 
shred  garlic,  and  grated  horse-radish ;  stuff 
the  space  as  full  as  it  will  admit  of,  and  re- 
place the  piece  which  was  cut  ofl";  bind 
them  with  a  diread;  put  over  them  hot 
vinegar  three  successive  days,  and  boil  witii 
it  the  last  time  ))epper,  flour  of  mustai'd, 
and  some  salt ;  put  them  into  jars,  and  pour 
over  diem  the  boiling  vinegar,  and  when 
cold,  cover  them  closely. 

CULLIS.  (1)  Toaquartofgravy,puta 
table-spoonful  of  thickening,  or  fiom  one  to 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  according  to 
the  thickness  you  wish  die  gravy  to  be,  into 
a  basin,  with  a  ladleful  of  die  gravy ;  stir  it 
quick ;  add  the  rest  by  degrees,  till  it  is  all 
well  mixed ;  dien  pour  it  back  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  leave  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  for  half  an  hour  longer,  that  the 
tiiickening  may  dioroughly  incorporate  with 
the  gravy,  die  stewpan  being  only  half  cov- 
ered, stirring  it  every  now  and  then ;  a  sort 
of  scum  will  gadier  on  the  top,  which  it  is 
test  not  to  take  off  till  you  are  ready  to 
strain  it  through  a  tamis.'  Take  care  it  is 
neither  of  too  pale  nor  too  dark  a  color ;  if 
it  is  not  diick  enough,  let  it  stevv  longer,  till 
it  is  reduced  to  the  desired  thickness;  or 
add  a  bit  of  glaze,  or  portable  souj)  to  it, 
if  it  is  too  thick,  you  can  easily  thin  it  witi 
a  spoonful  or  two  of  warm  broth,  or  water. 
When  your  sauce  is  done,  stir  it  in  the  ba- 
sin you  j)ut  it  into  once  or  twice,  while  it  is 
cooling. 

CULLIS.     (2)  Lay  over  the  bottom  of  a 
i  stovvpan  as  much  lean  veal  as  will  cover 


CU  R 


61 


CUR 


k  an  inch  thick ;  then  cover  the  veal  witli 
some  slices  of  undressed  bacon  (ganinion  is 
the  best),  tliree  onions,  diree  bay  leaves, 
some  sweet  herbs,  two  blades  of  mace,  and 
three  cloves.  Put  on  die  lid  of  the  stewpan, 
and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire ;  but  when  the 
juices  come  out,  let  the  fire  bq  a  little  quick- 
er. When  die  meat  is  of  a  nice  brown  col- 
or, fill  the  stewpan  with  good  beef  broth, 
boil  and  skim  it,  dien  let  it  simmer  for  an 
horn-;  add  a  little  water  mixed  with  as 
much  flour  as  will  make  it  properly  thick; 
boil  it  half  an  hour,  and  strain  it.  You 
may  keep  tiiis  cuUis  a  week. 

CULLIS,  A  FAMILY  ONE.  Roll  a 
piece  of  buttei-  in  floui-,  and  stir  it  in  a  stew- 
pan till  the  flour  is  of  a  fine  yellow  color. 
Then  put  in  some  thin  broth:  a  little  gravy, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  bundle  of  sweet 
herbs,  two  cloves,  a  little  nutmeg  or  mace,  a 
few  mushrooms,  pepper  and  salt.  Let  it 
stew  an  hour  over  a  slow  fire,  dien  skim  all 
tlie  fat  clean  off,  and  strain  it  dirough  a 
sieve, 

CULLIS,  WHITE.  Take  a  piece  of 
veal,  cut  it  into  small  bits,  with  some  diin 
slices  of  ham,  and  two  onions,  each  cut  into 
four;  moisten  it  with  brodi,  seasoned  with 
mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  green  onions, 
three  cloves,  and  so  let  it  stew.  Being 
stewed,  take  out  the  meat  and  roots  with  a 
skimmer,  put  in  a  few  crumbs  of  bread,  and 
let  it  stew  softly ;  take  the  white  of  a  fowl, 
or  two  chickens,  and  put  it  into  a  mortar ; 
being  well  pounded,  mix  it  in  die  cuUis,  but 
it  must  not  boil,  and  the  cullis  must  be  very 
white ;  but  if  not  white  enough,  pound  two 
dozen  of  sweet  ahxionds  blanched,  and  put  it 
into  die  cullis ;  then  boil  a  glass  of  milk,  and 
add  it  to  the  cullis ;  let  it  be  of  a  good  fla- 
vor, and  strain  it  ofi";  then  put  it  into  a 
small  kettle,  and  keep  it  warm.  It  may  be 
used  for  white  loaves,  crust  of  white  bread, 
and  biscuits. 

CURACOA.  Put  five  ounces  of  thin- 
cut  Seville  orange-peel,  that  has  been  dried 
and  poundi.d,  or,  which  is  still  better,  of 
the  fiesli  peel  of  a  fresh  shaddock,  which 
may  be  bouglit  at  the  orange  and  lemon 
shops  in  the  beginning  of  March,  into  a 
quart  of  the  finest  and  cleanest  rectified 
spirit;  after  it  has  been  infused  a  fortnight, 
strain  it,  and  add  a  quart  of  sirup  and  filter. 
See  the  following  receipt. 

CURACOA;  how  to  make  a 
Q,UART.  To  a  pint  of  the  cleanest  and 
strongest  rectified  spirit,  add  two  drachms 
and  a  lialf  of  the  sweet  oil  of  orange-j^eel ; 
shake  it  up:  dissolve  a  pound  of  good  lump 
sugar  in  a  pint  of  cold  water ;  make  diis  in- 


to a  claiified  sirup,  which  add  to  the 
spirit:  shake  it  up,  and  let  it  stand  till  the 
following  day:  diea  line  a  funnel  with  a 
piece  of  muslin,  and  that  with  filtering- 
paper,  and  filter  it  two  or  three  times  till  it 
is  quite  bright.  This  liquor  is  an  admii-a- 
ble  cordial ;  and  a  tea-spoonfiil  in  a  tumbler 
of  water  is  a  very  refreshing  summer  drink, 
and  a  great  improvement  to  punch. 

CURDS   AND   CREAM.    (1)    With 

about  half  a  table-spoonfiil  of  rennet,  turn 
two  quarts  of  milk  just  from  the  cow ;  drain 
off  the  whey,  and  fill  a  mould  with  die  curd ; 
when  it  has  stood  an  hour  or  two,  turn  it 
out.  Strew  colored  comfits  over  it,  sweeten 
some  cream,  mix  grated  nutmeg  with  it, 
and  pour  it  round  the  curd. 

CURDS  AND  CREAM.    (2)    Put  two 

quai'ts  of  new  milk  into  die  dish  in  which  it 
is  to  be  served,  and  turn  it  with  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  rennet;  when  die  cm-d  has  come,  serve 
it  with  cream  in  a  separate  dish. 

CURRANTS,  AND  OTHER  FRUIT, 
TO  CANDY.  Boil  the  fruit  in  clarified 
sugar  as  for  preserving;  take  it  out  of  the 
sirup  and  drain  it  upon  sieves ;  sift  over  it 
through  a  lawn  sieve,  till  quite  white,  pound- 
ed loaf  sugar.  Place  diem  in  a  cool  oven, 
and  tiu-n  and  dust  diem  with  sugaji-  till  dry. 

CURRANT  FRITTERS  WITHOUT 
EGGS.  Stir  into  half  a  pint  of  mild  ale, 
as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  into  a  thick 
batter ;  add  a  little  sugar  and  a  few  currants ; 
beat  it  up  quickly,  and  with  a  spoon  drop 
it  into  boiling  lard. 

CURRANT    MARMALADE.       Take 

some  ripe  red  currants,  pick  diem,  and 
squeeze  out  die  juice  from  some  of  diem ;  put 
to  it  some  juice  of  raspberries ;  then  put  to 
this  die  whole  currants,  boil  them  gently; 
and  when  they  begin  to  break,  put  in  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar  boiled  to  candy  height ; 
boil  diem  together,  mash  them  as  they  boil ; 
skim  diem,  put  in  some  rose  water,  and 
when  it  becomes  as  thick  as  marmalade,  put 
it  into  pots. 

CURRANT  PUDDING.  See  Pud- 
ding. 

CURRANTS  FOR  TARTS.     Gather 

the  fruit  perfectly  dry,  and  before  it  be  too 
ripe,  pick  it  from  the  stalks,  and  put  it  into 
clean,  dry,  wide-mouthed  bottles;  if  the 
flavor  of  raspberries  is  approved,  some  may 
be  added  with  the  currants ;  tie  tightly  over 
each  bottle  a  piece  of  sound  bladder  previ- 
ously soaked  in  water ;  set  them  into  a  pan 
of  cold  water  widi  a  little  straw  at  the  hot- 


CUR 


62 


CUR 


torn,  and  a  little  between  the  bottles;  put  j 
tliena  on  tlie  fire,  and  when  they  begin  to 
simmer,  keep  them  in  that  state  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  but  they  must  not  be 
allowed  to  boil ;  take  the  pan  off  the  fire ; 
the  bladders  will  be  raised,  but  will  fall  soon 
after,  and  sink  into  the  mouth  of  tlie  bottles ; 
in  an  hour,  take  them  out,  and  tie  strong 
paper  o\er  each,  and  set  them  in  a  dry  cool 
place.  The  bottles  may  be  placed  in  a 
bottle  rack  with  the  neck  downwards. 
Damsons,  cherries,  and  gooseberries,  may 
be  done  in  this  way ;  any  sort  will  keep  for 
a  year.  Cut  oflf  the  stalks  of  the  cherries, 
and  top  and  tail  the  gooseberries. 

CURRANT  TART.     See  Tarts. 

CURRIES.  Cut  fowls  or  rabbits  into 
joints,  and  wash  them  clean ;  put  two  ounces 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan  :  when  it  is  melted, 
put  in  the  meat,  and  two  middling-sized 
onions  sliced,  let  them  be  over  a  smart  fire 
till  they  are  of  a  light  brown,  then  put  in 
half  a  pint  of  broth ;  let  it  simmer  twenty 
minutes.  Put  in  a  basin  one  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
flour,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt;  mix  it 
smooth  with  a  little  cold  water,  put  it  into 
the  stewpan,  and  shake  it  well  about  till  it 
boils:  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes  longer; 
then  take  out  tlie  meat,  and  rub  the  sauce 
tlirough  a  tamis  or  sieve:  add  to  it  two  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  cream  or  milk ;  give  it  a 
boil  up;  then  pour  it  into  a  dish,  lay  die 
meat  over  it:  send  up  the  rice  in  a  separate 
dish. 

CURRY.  Cut  a  fowl  into  small  pieces, 
skin  it,  and  let  it  blanch  in  cold  water  for 
two  hours;  mince  an  onion  very  small,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butterj  and  a  large  table-spoonful  of  flour 
of  rice  stirred  in  by  degrees;  brown  it  well, 
and  when  just  boiling,  add  a  (juart  of  cold 
watei",  with  the  pieces  of  f  jwl  and  a  large 
table-spoonful  of  curiy  powder  mixed  in  it. 
liCt  it  boil  till  the  fowl  be  quite  tender,  and 
just  before  serving,  squeeze  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  over  the  blade  of  a  knife  into 
it.  Vinegar  will  answer  instead  of  the 
juice;  and  if  it  be  required  very  fine,  in 
place  of  rice,  thicken  it  with  an  ounce  of 
sweet  almonds  blanched  and  pounded. 

CURRY  BALLS  for  Mock  Turtle, 
Veal,  Poultry,  Made  Dishes,  Sfc.  Are 
made  with  bread-crumbs,  the  ^olk  of  an 
egg  boiled  hard,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter 
about  half  as  big,  beaten  together  in  a  mor- 
tar, and  seasoned  with  curry  powder. 

CURRY,  DRY.  Skin  and  cut  a  fowl 
into  joints,  or  talte  off  small  cutlets  from 


the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  veal ;  fi-y  in  hxAtGt 
three  or  four  miticed  onions,  and  drain 
them ;  then  fry  die  fowl  or  veal,  and  dust  it 
widi  three  tea-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  Cayenne. 
Put  the  fiied  meat  and  onions  into  a^ steve- 
pan,  with  a  little  salt,  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  water;  keep  the 
pan  closely  covered,  and  let  it  stew  till  per- 
fectly tender,  and  ten  minutes  before  serv- 
ing, add  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice. 

CURRY,  FISH.  After  a  cod-fish,  had- 
dock, or  mackerel  has  lain  some  hours  in 
salt,  cut  it  into  pieces,  and  stew  it  in  water 
sufficient  to  cover  it,  into  which  a  large  ta- 
ble spoonful  of  curry  powder  has  Ijeen  mix- 
ed. Fry  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  l)utter, 
a  shallot  and  two  or  tlnee  onions  minced, 
a  little  pepi)er  and  salt.  When  well  browm- 
ed,  add  it  to  the  fish,  and  stew  all  together 
till  it  1)e  (juite  tender.  Sprats  make  a  good 
curry,  but  should  be  stewed  in  less  water. 

CURRY,  INDIAN.  Stew  in  two  ounc- 
es of  butter,  for  ten  minutes,  a  teaspoonfiil 
of  Cayenne,  and  one  of  pepjier,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  pounded  coriander  seed,  six 
small  onions,  and  two  heads  of  garlic  min- 
ced. Cut  the  fowl  or  rabbit  into  small 
pieces,  and  cover  it  over  wiUi  the  curd  of 
sweet  milk.  Put  the  whole  into  a  stewpan, 
with  as  much  boiling  water  as  may  be  de^ 
sired  for  sauce,  and  let  it  simmer  till  veiy 
tender. 

CURRY  POWDER.  (1)  Putthefollow^- 
ing  ingredients  in  a  cool  oven  all  night,  and 
the  next  morning  pound  Uiem  in  a  marble 
mortar,  and  lub  them  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Coriander-seed,  diree  ounces,  turmeric,  three 
ounces,  black  pepper,  mustard,  and  ginger, 
one  ounce  of  each,  allspice  and  less  carda- 
mons,  .half  an  ounce  of  each,  cumin  seed, 
a  (juarter  of  an  ounce.  Thoroughly  pound 
and  mix  together,  and  keep  them  in  a  well- 
stopped  bottle.  Those  who  are  fond  of 
curry  sauces,  may  steep  tliree  ounces  of  die 
powder  in  a  quait  of  vinegar  or  white  wine 
for  ten  days,  and  will  get  a  liquor  impreg- 
nated with  all  die  flavor  of  die  powder. 

CURRY  POWDER.  (2)  Pound  ex- 
tremely fine,  in  a  mortar,  six  ounces  of  co- 
riander seed,  three  ounces  of  jiepper,  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  fennigreck  seed,  one 
ounce  of  cumin  seed,  three  ounces  of  tur- 
meric, and  threcKjuarters  of  an  ounce  of 
Cayenne;  sift  it  through  muslin,  and  put  it 
befoie  the  fire  for  four  or  five  hours,  stirring 
it  evei"y  now  and  then.  Keep  it  in  a  bottle 
with  a  glass  stopper. 

CURRY  OF  VEAL,  FOWL,  &c.    Fry 


cus 


63 


cus 


diced  veal,  rabbit,  fowl,  or  sweetbreads,  in  a 
good  deal  of  butter,  dusting  it  with  flour. 
Dust  one  side  with  curry  powder ;  then  turn 
?md  dust  the  otlier,  strewing  over  it  finely- 
minced  onions,  taking  care  not  to  burn  them. 
When  the  meat  is  of  a  ligl>t  brown,  add 
some  white  stock,  with  a  little  salt ;  stew  it 
till  tender.  Before  serving,  skim  off  the  fat, 
and  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon-juice  or 
vinegar.  Rabbit,  fowl,  and  sweetbreads 
should  be  parboiled. 

CUSTARD.  (1)  Sweeten  a  quart  of  thin 
cream,  or  good  milk,  with  pounded  loaf 
sugar;  boil  it  with  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and 
half  the  peel  of  a  lemon ;  strain  it,  and  when 
a  little  .cooled,  mix  it  gradually  with  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  ten  eggs ;  stir  it  over  a 
slow  fire  till  it  be  pretty  thick,  pour  it  into  a 
basin,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of  rose  water, 
and  one  of  brandy;  keep  stirring  it  every 
now  and  then  till  cold,  and  then  put  it  into 
gl^-sses,  cups,  or  a  dish.  It  may  be  made 
the  day  before  it  is  used. 

CUSTARD.  (2)  Boil  a  pint  of  milk 
with  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon ;  mix  a  pint 
of  cream,  and  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  well 
beaten ;  when  the  milk  tastes  of  the  season- 
ing, sweeten  it  enough  for  the  whole ;  pour 
it  into  the  cream,  stirring  it  well;  then  give 
the  custard  a  simmer  till  of  a  proper  thick- 
ness. Do  not  let  it  boil;  stir  the  whole 
time  one  way;  then  seaison  witli  a  large 
spoonful  of  peach  water,  and  two  tea-spoon- 
fuls of  brandy,  or  a  little  ratafia.  If  you  wish 
your  custards  to  be  extremely  rich,  put  no 
milk,  but  a  quart  of  cream. 

CUSTARDS.  (3)  Take  six  eggs, 
leave  out  the  whites;  mix  your  eggs  and 
sugai-  together  with  some  rose  water ;  tlien 
boil  a  pint  of  cream,  and  put  in  the  eggs 
(the  cream  must  not  boil  after  the  eggs  have 
been  put  in).  Stir  them  to  prevent  tliem 
from  curdling. 

CUSTARDS,  ALMOND.  Blanch  and 
pound  fine,  with  half  a  gill  of  rose  water,  six 
ounces  of  sweet,  and  half  an  ounce  of  bit(er 
almonds;  boil  a  pint  of  milk,  as  in  Baked 
Custard  sweeten  it  with  twf)  ounces  and  a 
half  of  sugar;  rub  tiie  almonds  through  a 
fine  sieve,  with  a  pint  of  cream;  strain  the 
milk  to  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  the 
whites  of  three  well-beaten ;  stir  it  over  a 
fire  till  it  is  of  a  good  thickness;  talie  it  off 
the  fire,  and  stir  it  till  nearly  cold,  to  prevent 
its  curdling.  N.  B. — The  above  may  be 
baked  in  cups,  or  in  a  dish,  with  a  rim  of 
puff  paste  put  round. 

CUSTARD,  APPLE.  Take  thirty 
fine  apples,  and  pierce  out  the  cores  of  ten 


of  them  which  are  of  an  equal  size ;  pare 
and  trim  them  neatly,  and  boil  them  in  six 
ounces  of  sugar  till  pretty  firm.  Peel  and 
cut  the  remaining  apples  very  small,  and  put 
them  into  the  above  sirup;  shred  the  rind 
q{  an  orange,  and  mix  witli  them ;  stir  the 
whole  constantly  to  pievent  their  sticking 
to  the  pan ;  when  sufficiently  done  mb  the 
marmalade  through  a  horse-liair  sieve.  Pre- 
pare the  crust  as  before  mentioned,  but  dress 
the  sides  a  little  higher;  mix  two  spoonfuls 
of  apricot  mannalade  with  that  of  your 
apples,  and  then  put  four  spoonfuls  of  it  into 
the  custard ;  place  the  whole  apples,  (hav- 
ing put  apricot  marmalade  in  the  place  of 
the  cores),  and  then  add  the  remainder  of 
the  apple  mannalade,  tadcing  care  not  to 
cover  die  apples  with  it.  Finish  as  above. 
At  the  instant  of  serving  it  mask  it  with 
apple  jelly,  apricot  or  quince  marmalade, 
cherry  juice  or  verjuice.  Garnish  the  top 
of  each  apple  with  a  cheiry  or  verjuice-berry. 
Sei-ve  this  hot  or  cold. 

CUSTARD,     APRICOT     GLAZED. 

Cut  twenty  fine  apricots  in  half,  take  out 
the  stones ;  toss  up  twelve  apricots  in  four 
ounces  of  powder-sugar,  and  place  them  in 
a  cream  according  to  the  directions  for 
apple  custard;  bake  and  glaze  as  therein 
directed.  Put  a  glass  of  water  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar  with  the 
rest  of  the  fi"uit  into  a  preserving-pan ;  when 
the  sirup  is  properly  reduced,  take  the  skin 
from  the  apricots  and  arrange  them  in  the 
custard;  garnish  each  half  apricot  witli  a 
kernel,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  pour  the 
sirup  on  it.     Serve  hot  or  cold. 

CUSTARD,  BAKED.  (1)  Boil  a 
pint  of  cream  with  mace  and  cinnamon; 
when  cold,  take  four  eggs,  leaving  out  two 
of  the  whites,  a  little  rose  and  orange-flower 
water,  a  little  white  wine,  nutmeg,  and 
sugar  to  your  taste ;  mix  diem  well  together, 
and  bake  them  in  china  cups. 

CUSTARD,  BAKED.  (2)  Boil  in  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  few  coriander  seeds,  a  little 
cinnamon  and  leraon-]X!el;  sweeten  witli 
four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  and  mix  with  it  a, 
pint  of  cold  milk ;  beat  well  eight  eggs  for 
ten  minutes,  and  add  the  odier  ingredients; 
pour  it  from  one  pan  into  anotljer  six  or 
eight  times,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
let  it  stand  some  time ;  skim  off  tlie  fi-oth 
from  the  top,  fill  it  in  earthen  cups,  and 
bake  them  immediately  in  a  hot  oven,  give 
them  a  good  color ;  about  tea  minutes  will 
do  them. 

CUSTARD,  BOILED.  (1)  Boil  in  a  pint 
of  milk,  five  minutes,  lemon-peel,  corianders, 
and   cinnamon,  a  small  quantity  of  each, 


cus 


64 


cus 


half  a  dozen  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounded,  and  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar:  mix 
it  with  a  pint  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs, 
and  the  whites  of  six,  well-beaten ;  pass  it 
through  a  hair  sieve,  stir  it  with  a  whisk 
over  a  slow  fire  till  it  begins  to  thicken,  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  and  continue  to  stir 
it  till  nearly  cold ;  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  brandy,  fill  the  cups  or  glasses,  and  grate 
nutmeg  over. 

CUSTARDS,  BOILED.  (2)  Put  a 
quart  of  new  milk  into  a  stewpan,  with  the 
peel  of  a  lemon  cut  very  tliin,  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  a  bay  or  laurel  leaf,  and  a  small 
stick  of  cinnamon ;  set  it  over  a  quick  fire, 
but  be  careful  it  does  not  boil  over:  when  it 
boils,  set  it  beside  the  fire,  and  simmer  ten 
minutes ;  break  the  yolks  of  eight,  and  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  into  a  basin ;  beat  them 
well;  then  pour  in  the  milk  a  little  at  a 
time,  stirring  it  as  quick  as  possible  to  pre- 
vent tlie  eggs  curdling;  set  it  on  the  fire 
again,  and  stir  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
let  it  have  just  one  boil ;  pass  it  through  a 
tamis,  or  fine  sieve:  when  cold  add  a  little 
brandy,  or  white  wine,  as  may  be  most 
agreeable  to  the  eater's  palate.  Sei-ve  up 
in  glasses,  or  cups.  Custards  for  baking 
are  prepared  as  above,  passed  through  a 
fine  sieve ;  put  them  into  cups ;  grate  a  little 
nutmeg  over  each:  bake  them  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes. 

CUSTARD,  COMMON.  Boil  a  pint 
of  milk  with  a  bit  of  cinnamon  and  two  or 
three  laurel  leaves;  mix  widi  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  or  potato  flour,  two  and  a 
half  of  cold  milk,  put  it  into  a  lawn  sieve, 
and  pour  the  boiling  milk  upon  it;  let  it 
run  into  a  basin,  mix  in  by  degi-ees  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs;  sweeten,  and 
stur  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  to 
thicken. 

CUSTARDS  OR  CREAMS,  to  Orna- 
ment.    Whisk  for  one  hour  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  together  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  raspberry,  or  red  currant  sii-up  or  jelly 
"ay  it  in  " 

)iled  up 
m  a  dish  with  cream  round  it. 


lay  it  in  any  form  upon  a  custard  or  cream, 
piled  up  to  imitate  rock.     It  may  be  served 


CUSTARD,  DURHAM.  To  a  pint  of 
cream  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
and  about  a  third  of  a  pint  of  mild  strong 
ale  J  sweeten,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it 
nearly  boils,  then  jwur  it  into  a  dish,  in  the 
bottom  of  which  is  laid  thin  toasted  bread, 
cut  into  square  bits. 

CUSTARD  OF  FRESH  FRUIT. 
Have  ready  a  tin  or  copper  mould,  and  line 
it  completely  with  paste,  taking  care  that  it 


takes  all  the  form  of  the  mould.  Then  take 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  apricots,  peaches, 
plums,  or  any  odier  fruit  you  please ;  and 
having  taken  out  the  stones,  seeds,  and  stalks, 
mix  the  fruit  up  with  powder-sugar;  put  it 
into  the  crust,  and  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven. 
When  ready  for  table,  mask  it  with  the 
sirup  and  kernels,  blanched  and  cut  in 
halves. 

CUSTARD,  LEMON.  (1)  Boil  two 
glasses  of  white  wine,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy;  when 
nearly  cold,  add  the  grated  peel  and  juice 
of  two  lemons,  with  half  a  pound  of  pounded 
loaf  sugar,  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six 
eggs;  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  tliickens, 
pour  it  into  a  basin,  and  stir  now  and  then 
till  cold ;  put  it  into  a  dish,  or  cups,  with 
sifted  loaf  sugar  over  tlie  top. 

CUSTARD,  LEMON.  (2)  Put  the 
juice  of  four  lemons,  with  three  ounces  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  into  a  deep  dish.  Boil 
the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon  and  two  ounces 
of  poimded  loaf  sugar  in  a  quart  of  cream, 
and  pour  it  ovei*  the  juice  and  sugai".  It 
will  keep  for  four  days. 

CUSTARD,  ORANGE.  Sweeten  the 
strained  juice  of  ten  oranges  with  pounded 
loaf  sugar,  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  hot,  take 
ofl"  the  scum,  a,nd  when  nearly  cold  add  to  it 
the  beaten  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  and  a  pint 
of  cream ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir 
it  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  diickens.  Serve  in 
cups  or  a  dish. 

CUSTARD,  RICE.  Mix  a  pint  of 
milk,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  one  ounce  of  sift- 
ed ground  rice,  five  or  six  bitter  almonds, 
blanched  and  pounded  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  rose  water ;  sweeten  with  loaf  sugar, 
and  stir  it  all  together  till  it  nearly  boils; 
add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  tliree  eggs ; 
stir,  and  let  it  simmer  for  about  a  minute; 
pour  it  into  a  dish,  or  serve  it  in  cups,  with 
sifted  loaf  sugar  over  the  top. 

CUSTARD,  TURKEY.  Put  a  potmd 
and  a  half  of  good  rice  into  cold  water  over 
the  fire,  and  when  it  boils,  take  it  off  and 
drain  it  well ;  then  put  it  into  a  large  sauce- 
pan, with  twelve  glasses  of  good  milk,  a 
pound  of  butter,thesameof  sugar,  on  which 
have  been  rasped  the  peels  of  four  oranges 
or  cedrats,  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Put  the 
saucepan  over  a  moderate  fire  to  swell  the 
rice,  taking  care  tiiat  none  of  the  grains 
burst ;  stir  it  a  little,  and  when  done,  add 
to  it  two  pounds  of  di7  cun-ants,  the  yolks 
of  twelve  eggs,  and  some  spoonfuls  of  Chan- 
tilly  cream ;  after  which  mix  in  the  twelve 
whites  whipped  firm.     Prepare  the  crust  in 


DAM  65 

tk^ iiiiual  way;  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven 
two  liours  and  a  half;  when  I'eady  for  table, 
brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

CUSTARD,  TURNING  OUT.      Mix 

with  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  a 
pint  of  new  milk,  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass 
dissolved,  or  enough  of  calfs-feet  stock  to 
stiffen  it,  and  two  laurel  leaves;  sweeten 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  stir  it  over  a 
slow  fire  till  it  thickens ;  })our  it  into  a 
basin,  and  stir  it  till  a  little  cooled,  then 
pour  it  into  cups  to  turn  out  when  (juite  cold. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a  little 
cream;  add  it  to  nearly  half  a  pound  of 
brown  sugar  burnt;  strain  it  tJirough  a 
sieve,  and  when  cold  pour  it  round  tlie  cus- 
tards. 


DEV 


D. 


DAMSONS  BOTTLED.  Gather  them 
on  k  dry  day  before  they  are  ripe,  when  they 
have  just  turned  their  color.  Put  them  in 
wide-mouthed  bottles,  cork  tliem  close,  and 
let  them  stand  a  fortnight  ;  then  carefully 
examine  them,  and  if  any  of  them  are 
mouldy  or  spotted,  take  them  out  of  the  bot- 
tles, and  cork  the  rest  close.  Put  die  bot- 
tles in  sand,  and  they  will  keep  good  till  the 
spring. 

DAMSON  DUMPLINGS.  Make  a 
^ood  hot  paste  crust,  roll  it  pretty  thin,  lay  it 
in  a  basin,  and  put  in  as  many  damsons  as 
you  please.  Wet  the  edge  of  the  paste  and 
close  it  up  ;  boil  it  in  a  cloth  for  an  hour  ; 
pour  melted  butter  over  it,  grate  sugar  round 
the  edge  of  die  dish,  and  serve. 

DAMSON  JELLY.     See  Jelly. 

DAMSON,  OR  OTHER  PLUM 
CHEESE.  Take  damsons  that  have  been 
preserved  widiout  sugar;  pass  them  through 
a  sieve,  to  take  out  the  skins  and  stones. 
To  every  pound  of  pulp  of  fruit  put  half  a 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  broke  small ;  boil  them 
together  till  it  becomes  quite  stiff ;  pour  it 
into  four  common-sized  dinner  plates,  rubljed 
with  a  little  sweet  oil  ;  put  it  into  a  warm 
place  to  dry,  and  when  quite  firm,  take  it 
from  the  plate,  and  cut  it  into  any  shape  you 
choose.  N.  B. — Damson  cheese  is  generally 
used  in  desserts. 

DAMSONS    FOR    WINTER    USE. 

Gather  the  damsons  when  just  rifxj,  and  per- 
fectly sound  ;  fill  a  two-gallon  brandy  keg, 
and  pour  over  two  pounds  of  molasses ;  close 
tlie  keg  firmly,  and  turn  it  every  day. 


DEER  HORNS.  Beat  one  white,  and 
six  yolks  of  eggs;  mix  them  widi  five  table 
spoonfuls  of  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
the  same  quantity  of  sweet  cream,  ten  sweet 
almonds,  blanched  and  jwunded,  the  gi-ated 
peel  of  one  lemon,  and  as  much  flour  as  will 
make  the  whole  into  a  paste  sufficiently 
thick  to  roll  out.  Then  cut  it  with  tins  for 
the  purpose,  into  the  form  of  horns,  branch- 
es, or  any  other  shape,  and  throw  diem  into 
boiling  lard. 

DEVIL.  (1)  Score  the  leg  of  a  roasted  tur- 
key, goose,  or  fowl ;  pepper  and  salt  it  well, 
broil  it,  and  pour  over  it  the  following  sauce 
made  quite  hot:  three  table-spoonfuls  (/f  gra- 
vy, one  of  melted  butter,  and  one  of  lemon 
juice,  a  large  wine-glass  of  Port  wine,  of 
mustard.  Chili  vinegar,  Harvey  sauce,  and 
mushroom  catchup,  a  tea-spoonful  each ;  a  lit- 
tle Cayenne  and  pepper.  The  devil  may  be 
served  without  a  sauce,  and  be  more  highly 
seasoned.  When  this  dish  is  to  he  served 
cold,  the  fat  being  carefully  removed  from  the 
goose,  it  may  be  ornamented  or  covered  with 
cold  jelly  made  as  f(jllows  : — Boil  for  five 
hours  in  four  quarts  of  water  the  bones  of  the 
goose,  with  diree  nicely  cleaned  calf's  feet, 
strain  it,  and  when  cold  take  off  all  die  fat, 
and  boil  the  jelly  with  some  whole  pe})per, 
ginger,  and  salt;  add  two  ounces  of  dissolv- 
ed isinglass,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and 
the  beaten  whites  of  three  or  four  eggs ;  stir 
it  while  it  is  upon  die  fire,  and  allow  it  to 
boil  about  ten  minutes  ;  then  run  it  through 
a  jelly-bag,  and  repeat  this  till  it  becomes 
quite  clear. 

DEVIL.  (2)  The  gizzard  and  rump,  or 
legs,  &c.  of  a  dressed  turkey,  capon,  or 
goose,  or  mutton  or  veal  kidney,  scored, 
peppered;  salted,  and  broiled,  sent  up  for  a 
relish,  being  made  very  hot,  has  obtained 
the  name  of  a  "  devil." 

DEVONSHIRE  JUNKET.  (1)  Turn 
some  new  milk  fioin  the  cow  widi  a  little 
rennet  ;  sweeten  some  thick  cream,  add  a 
little  pounded  cinnamr.n,  make  it  scalding 
hot,  and  when  cold  pour  it  over  the  curd, 
and  put  a  little  wine  and  sugar  into  die  lx)t- 
tom  of  the  dish. 

DEVONSHIRE  JUNKET.    (2)   Turn 

some  new  milk,  as  for  cheese  cakes,  in  a 
wide  shallow  dish  ;  when  cold,  pour  over  the 
top  a  pint  of  rich  cream  mixed  with  pounded 
loaf  sugar,  six  dessert  s[x>onfuls  of  brandy, 
and  some  grated  nutmeg. 

DEVONSHIRE  WHITE  POT.     Beat 

up  a  pint  of  cream  with  four  eggs,  a  little 
salt,  some  sliced  mitineu;,  and  a  good  deal  of 


6* 


DUC 


66 


DUC 


sugar;  then  slice  veiy  thin, almost  the  whole 
of  the  crura  of  a  penny  loaf ;  put  it  into  a 
dish  ;  pour  the  eggs  and  cream  to  it  ;  a 
handful  of  Smyrna  raisins  boiled,  and  a 
little  sweet  butter  :  bake  it. 

DIGESTER.  An  iron  boiler,  with  a 
top  to  screw  on,  to  prevent  the  steam  from 
escaping. 

DRIPPINGS,  TO  CLARIFY.  Put 
your  dripping  into  a  clean  saucepan  over  a 
stove  or  slow  fire ;  when  it  is  just  going  to 
boil,  skim  it  well,  let  it  boil,  and  then  let  it 
stand  till  it  is  a  little  cooled;  then  pour  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  pan,  Obs. — Well- 
cleansed  drippings,  and  the  fat  skimmings 
of  tlie  brotli-pot,  when  fresh  and  sweet,  will 
baste  every  tiling  as  well  as  butter  except 
game  and  poultry,  and  should  supply  the 
place  of  butter  for  common  fries,  &c.;  foi* 
which  they  are  e(}ual  to  lard,  esjiecially  if 
you  re[)eat  the  clarifying  twice  over.  N.  B. 
— If  you  keep  it  in  a  cool  place,  you  may 
preserve  it  a  fortnight  in  summer,  and  long- 
er in  winter.  When  you  have  done  frying, 
let  the  dripping  stand  a  few  minutes  to  set- 
tle, and  then  pour  it  duough  a  sieve  into  a 
clean  basin  or  stone  pan,  and  it  will  do  a 
second  and  a  diird  time  as  well  as  it  did 
the  fiist ;  only  the  fat  you  have  fried  fish  in 
must  not  be  used  for  any  other  purpose. 

DRINK,  COOLING.  A  palatable  and 
cooling  drink  may  be  made  by  pouring  hot 
water  over  slices  of  lemon ;  when  cold,  to 
be  strained  and  sweetened. 

DUCK.  Mind  your  duck  is  well  cleaned, 
and  wiped  out  with  a  clean  cloth:  for  the 
stuffing,  take  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an 
ounce  of  green  sage;  chop  them  A-ery  fine, 
and  mix  them  widi  two  ounces,  i,  e.  about 
a  breakfast-cupful,  of  bread  crumbs,  a  bit 
of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  walnut,  a  very 
little  black  jiepper  and  salt,  and  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  to  bind  it ;  mix  these  thoroughly  to- 
gether, and  put  into  the  duck.  From  half 
to  three-(juarters  of  an  hour  will  lie  enough 
to  roast  it,  according  to  die  size:  contrive 
to  ha\'e  the  feet  delicately  crisp,  as  some 
people  are  very  fond  of  them ;  to  do  this 
nicely  you  must  have  a  sharp  fire. 

DUCK,  TO  BOIL.  Make  a  paste,  al- 
lowing half  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  pound  of 
flour.  Truss  a  duck  as  for  boiling;  put  in- 
to die  inside  a  little  pep|:)er  and  salt,  one  or 
two  sage  leaves,  and  a  little  onion  finely 
minced;  enclose  the  duck  in  the  paste,  with 
a  little  jellied  gravy.  Boil  it  in  a  cloth,  and 
serve  it  with  brown  gravy  poured  round  it. 

DUCKS,  TO    CHOOSE.    Their  feet 


should  be  supple,  and  they  should  be  hard 
and  thick  on  the  breast  and  belly.  The  feet 
of  a  tame  duck  are  thick,  and  inclining  to  a 
dusky  yellow.  The  feet  of  a  wild  duck  are 
reddish,  and  smaller  than  the  tame  ;  they 
should  be  picked  dry.  Ducklings  should  be 
scalded, 

DUCK,  DRESSED  IN  DIFFERENT 
WAYS,  Take  either  a  large  duck,  or  two 
ducklings,  which  truss  like  a  fowl  for  boil- 
ing ;  put  it  into  a  ix)t  (just  about  large 
enough  to  hold  die  duck)  with  thin  slices  of 
bacon,  a  little  stock,  a  glass  of  wine,  j^epper, 
salt,  onions,  carrots,  a  head  of  celery  sliced, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  heibs,  two  cloves,  and  a 
bay-leaf;  when  done,  take  out  the  duck, 
wipe  the  fat  off"  very  clean,  and  serve  with 
what  sauce  or  ragout  you  choose,  such  as 
sweedjieads,  gieen-j)eas,  turnips,  chestnuts, 
olives,  cucunilaers,  or  any  sort  of  stewed 
greens,  according  to  the  season. 

DUCKS,  GEESE,  DRESSED,  OR 

HASHED.  Cut  an  onion  into  small  dice; 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  bit  of  butter; 
fry  it,  but  do  not  let  it  get  any  color ;  put 
as  much  boiling  water  intQ  the  stewpan  as 
will  make  sauce  for  the  hash;  thicken  it 
with  a  little  flour;  cut  up  the  duck,  and  put 
it  into  the  sauce  to  warm;  do  not  let  it 
boil;  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
catchup.  Divide  the  duck  into  joints;  lay 
it  by  ready;  put  the  trimmings  and  stufling 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
broth  or  water ;  let  it  Ixiil  half  an  hour,  and 
then  laib  it  through  a  sieve ;  put  half  an 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan;  as  it  melts, 
mix  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  with  it;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  then  mix  the 
gravy  with  it  by  degrees;  as  soon  as  it  boils, 
take  off  the  scum,  and  strain  through  a  sieve 
into  a  stewpan ;  put  in  the  duck,  and  let  it 
stew  very  gently  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
if  the  duck  is  rather  undei-roasted:  if  there 
is  any  fat,  skim  it  ofl':  line  die  dish  you 
serve  it  up  in  « itli  sippets  of  biead  either 
fried  or  toasted. 

DUCK  OR  GOOSE  FORCED.  Cut 
the  goose  ofien  at  die  battk,  and  carefully 
take  out  the  bones,  excepting  those  of  the 
legs  and  wings.  Take  out  all  the  meat  fioin 
the  body,  leaving  the  skin  perfectly  whole. 
With  the  meat  pound  three-f|uarters  of  a 
pound  of  lean  and  tender  teef,  add  dirce 
handfuls  of  grated  bread,  four  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  half  a  pint  of  rich  sweet  cream ; 
season  with  pepper,  mace,  and  salt;  mix  it 
ail  well  together;  let  it  stand  for  half  an 
hour,  and  then  put  it  into  die  goose,  which 
sew  up,  and  make  it  of  as  natural  a  form  as 
possible;  but  take  care  diat  it  he  not  too 
much  stuffed.     Boil  it  for  half  an  hour  in 


DUG 


67 


DUM 


some  gootl  stock,  and  then  put  It  into  a  flat 
tin  baking-pan,  with  some  fresh  butter  over 
and  under  it.  Bake  it  in  an  oven  anollicr 
half  hour,  and  serve  it  wiUi  the  following 
sauce:  Brown  a  table-spoonful  of  butter 
vvidi  flour,  add  about  a  pint  of  the  stock 
in  which  the  goose  has  been  boiled,  three 
grated  onions,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  capers 
cut  fine,  a  little  lemon  pickle,  and  a  few 
small  pickled  onions;  boil  it  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  and  just  befoie  pouring  it 
over  the  goose,  stir  in  gradually  half  a  pint 
of  rich  cream. 

DUCK,  HASHED,  Cut  a  duck  in 
pieces,  and  flour  it;  put  in  a  stewpan  some 
gravy,  a  little  Port  wine,  shallots  chopped 
fine,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  bit  of  lemon  ;  Iwil 
this  ;  then  put  in  the  duck,  toss  it  up,  take 
out  the  lemon,  and  serve  widi  toasted  sippets. 

DUCKS  ROASTED.  Season  them 
with  sage  and  onion  shred,  pepper  and  salt; 
half  an  hour  will  roast  tliem.  Giavy-sauce 
w  onion  sauce.  Always  stew  the  sage  and 
onion  in  a  little  water,  as  it  prevents  its 
eating  stron<r,  and  takes  oflT  the  rawness  of 


DUCK,  TO  STEW.  (1)  Cut  one  or  two 

ducks  into  cjuarters ;  fry  them  a  light  brown 
in  butter;  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  witli 
a  pint  of  gravy,  a  tea-cupful  of  Port  wine, 
four  onions  whole,  pepper  and  some  salt,  a 
bunch  of  paisley,  two  sage  leaves,  a  sprig 
of  winter  savory,  and  sweet  marjoi-am. 
Cover  the  pan  closely,  and  stew  them  till  ten- 
der; take  out  the  herbs  and  pepper;  skim  it; 
if  the  sauce  be  not  sufliciently  thick,  mix  with 
two  table-spoonfujs  of  it  a  little  flour,  and 
stir  it  into  the  saucepan ;  hoil  it  up,  and 
gai'nish  tlie  dish  with  the  four  onions. 

DUCK,  TO  STEW.  (2)  Put  into  a  duck 
gome  pepper,  salt,  a  minced  onion,  and  one 
leaf  of  sage  also  minced;  half  roast  it; 
brown  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  table- 
spoonful  i)f  flour;  add  as  much  weak  stock 
or  water  as  will  half  cover  the  duck,  and 
some  pepper  and  salt;  put  in  the  duck,  and 
a  quart  of  gree»  peas;  let  it  stew  for  half 
an  hour,  stirring  it  now  and  then.  For  a 
variety,  a  dozen  of  middling-si/.ed  onions 
may  lie  sui^stituted  fur  the  j)eas,  and  stew- 
ed the  same  length  of  time.  Cold  roasted 
duck  may  be  dressed  qxactly  in  the  same 
manner;  and  to  hash  it,  cut  it  into  joints, 
and  heat  it  diorouglily  in  gravy,  adding  a 
little  soy,  and  a  glass  of  Port  wine. 

DUCK,  WILD.  These  birds  should  be 
fat,  the  claws  small,  reddish  and  su|)ple;  if 
not  fresh,  on  opening  the  lieak    they  will 


smell  disagieeable  ;  the  breast  and  rump 
should  be  firm  and  heRvy  ;  the  flesh  of  the 
hen-l)ird  is  the  most  delicate,  though  the 
cock  generally  fetches  the  highest  price. 
Pick  them  dry,  cut  the  wings  vej-y  close  to 
the  lx)dy,  take  ofl"  the  necks,  draw  and  singe 
them,  truss  up  tlie  legs  and  skewer  them  ; 
and  having  rubbed  Uiem  with  their  livers, 
spit,  and  roast  them  ;  take  them  up  with 
the  gravy  in,  and  serve  with  lemons. 

DUCK,   WILD,   SALMIS  OF.     Cut 

off"  die  best  parts  of  a  couple  of  roasted  wild 
ducks,  and  put  die  rest  of  the  meat  into  a 
mortar,  with  six  shallots,  a  little  parsley, 
some  pepper,  and  a  bay-leaf,  pound  all  these 
ingiedients  together  well,  and  then  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  four  ladlesful  of  stock, 
half  a  glass  of  white  wine,  the  same  of 
broth,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg;  reduce 
these  to  half,  strain  them,  and  having  laid 
the  pieces  on  a  dish,  cover  them  with  the 
above  :  keep  the  whole  hot,  not  boiling,  un- 
til wanted  for  table. 

DUMPLINGS,  HARD.  Mix  as  for  a 
paste,  some  flour  with  small  beer  or  water, 
and  a  little  salt;  roll  them  in  balls  rather 
larger  than  an  egg;  when  the  water  boils 
put  them  in:  half  an  hour  will  boil  them; 
currants  may  be  added ;  they  are  good  Ixiil- 
ed  with  lieef.  They  are  eaten  either  with 
cold  or  melted  butter. 

DUMPLINGS,  HALF-HOUR.  Mince 
finely  half  a  pound  of  suet,  mix  it  with  tlie 
same  proportion  of  grated  bread,  and  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  flour,  a  quaiter  of  a  pound 
of  currants,  some  sugar,  a  little  gi*ated  lem- 
on-peel, nutmeg,  and  three  well-beaten  eggs ; 
roll  die  mixture  into  round  balls,  tie  them 
in  bits  of  linen,  and  boil  them  for  half  an 
iiour.  Serve  with  melted  butter  and  sugar 
poured  over  diem. 

DUMPLINGS,  NORFOLK.  Widi  a 
pint  of  milk,  two  eggs,  a  little  salt,  and 
f-oine  flour,  make  a  batter;  drop  this  in 
small  quantities  into  a  pot  of  Iwiling  water; 
they  will  be  boiled  in  three  minutes;  throw 
them  into  a  sieve  or  cullender  to  drain. 

DUMPLING  PASTE.  Make  a  paste 
with  flour,  milk,  salt  and  yeast;  let  it  stand 
sometime  in  a  warm  place  to  lerment;  dien 
cut  the  ptiste  into  pieces  of  what  size  you 
please,  and  boil  them  a  good  while;  let 
them  cool;  then  cut  each  into  two,  and 
soak  them  in  milk,  sugar,  and  lemon-j)eel, 
about  an  hour,  and  drain  and  flour  them  fit 
for  flying;  or,  you  may  dip  them  in  oil  or 
melted  butter  to  broil,  basting  with  the 
same  as  they  were  dipped  in. 


Bfift 


68 


EEL 


DUTCH  CREAM  CHEESE.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  eiglu,  and  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  and  mix  them  with  a  pint  of  butter 
milk;  add  tliis  to  tlnee  quarts  of  boiling 
milk  just  from  die  cow;  let  it  boil  up  once, 
take  it  off"  die  lire,  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand 
a  little  that  the  curd  may  form ;  then  put  it 
into  a  small  hair  sieve,  and  press  it  with  a 
weight  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  it  may 
be  tiuned  out.  It  is  eaten  with  cream  and 
BUgar. 

DUTCH  FLUMMERY.  (1)  Boil, 
with  a  pint  of  white  wine,  some  sugar,  die 
juice  of  two,  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  a 
stick  of  cinnamon,  and  half  an  ounce  of  dis- 
solved isinglass;  stiain,  and  mix  it  with  the 
well-teaten  yolks  of  seven  eggs,  stir  it  over 
the  fii-e  till  it  sinmner,  but  do  not  allow  it  to 
boil ;  stir  it  till  quite  cold,  and  put  it  into  a 

DUTCH  FLUMMERY.  (2)  Boil  for 
ten  minutes,  in  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and 
the  same  projjortion  of  water,  the  juice  of 
thiee,  and  the  peel  of  two  lemons,  rather 
more  Uian  a  quarter  of  a  jx)und  of  loaf  sugar, 
and  an  ounce  of  isinglass  dissolved;  strain, 
and  mix  it  gi-adually  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  five  eggs ;  put  it  again  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  for  five  minutes;  stir  it  till  cold,  and 
put  it  into  a  shape. 


E. 


ECHAUDE'S.  Lay  a  quartern  of  flour 
on  a  pasteboard  or  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the 
centre,  in  which  put  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  a 
little  water  to  dissolve  it,  a  pound  of  butter, 
twenty  eggs;  mix  the  two  latter  well  to- 
gether, Uien  the  fiour;  work  it  thoroughly 
with  your  hands,  if  it  be  very  firm  add  more 
^gs.  When  perfectly  smooth,  sprinkle  a 
cloth  with  fiour,  lay  die  paste  in  it,  and  set 
•it  in  a  cool  place  for  ten  or  twelve  hours. 
The  next  day  heat  about  three  quarts  of 
water,  and  having  cut  your  paste  into  small 
pieces,  alx)nt  an  inch  square,  and  liaving 
floured  each,  put  them  into  hot  but  not  boil- 
ing water,  sliake  the  kettle  the  instant  after 
you  have  thrown  Uiem  in,  and  as  they  rise, 
if  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  they  are  suf- 
ficiently done,  and  must  be  taken  out  of  the 
saucepan,  and  thrown  into  cold  water;  let 
tliem  remain  two  or  diree  hours ;  thenditiin, 
and  leave  them  again  for  tlu-ee  hours  or 
more,  and  then  bake  Uiem  for  about  twenty 
minutes. 

EELS  AND  SOLES,  stewed  Wio- 
gy's  way.     Take  two  pounds  of  fine  sil- 


ver eels:  the  best  are  those  that  are  lather 
more  than  a  half-crown  piece  in  circumfer- 
ence, (|uite  fiesh,  full  of  life,  and  "  as  brisk 
as  an  eel:"  wash  them  in  several  different 
waters,  and  divide  them  into  pieces  alxjut 
four  inches  long.  Some  cooks,  dredge  them 
with  a  little  flour,  wipe  them  drj-,  and  then 
egg  and  crumb  them,  and  fry  Uiem  in  drip- 
pings till  they  are  brown,  and  lay  them  to 
dry  on  a  hair  sieve.  Have  ready  a  quart 
of  good  beef  gravy ;  it  must  \ie  cold  when 
you  put  the  eels  into  it :  set  them  on  a  slow 
fire -to  simmer  very  gently  for  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  according  to  the  size  of  Uie 
eels;  watch  them,  that  they  are  not  done 
too  much;  take  Uiem  carefully  out  of  the 
stewpan  with  a  fish-slice,  so  as  not  to  teai* 
their  coats,  and  lay  Uiem  on  a  dibli  about 
two  inches  deep. 

EELS  BAKED.  Skin  and  clean  some 
eels ;  take  a  shallow  pan,  and  cut  the  eels  in 
lengdis  according  to  the  depth  of  die  ])an ; 
put  (hem  in,  letting  Uiem  stand  upright  in 
it ;  the  pun  should  be  filled ;  put  in  a  little 
water,  some  salt,  pepper,  shallots  cut  small, 
some  sweet  herbs,  and  a  little  parsley  cut 
small ;  st!t  them  in  the  oven  to  bake ;  when 
they  are  done  take  the  licjuor  that  comes 
from  them,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  thick- 
en it  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  a  little  white  wine. 

EELS  BOILED.  Small  ones  are  pre- 
ferable. Curl  and  put  them  on  in  boiling 
sall-and-water,  with  a  little  vinegar.  Gar- 
nish with  parsley.  Sauce; — parsley  and 
butter. 

EELS  COLLARED.  Take  an  eel,  and 
cut  it  oyicn ;  take  out  the  bones  ;  cut  off'  the 
head  and  tail ;  lay  the  eel  flat,  and  shred 
sage  as  fine  as  possible;  mix  with  black 
pepper  pounded,  nutmeg  grated,  and  salt; 
lay  it  all  over  the  eel ;  roll  it  up  hard  in  a 
cloth ;  tie  it  up  tight  at  each  end ;  then  set 
over  Uie  fire  some  water,  with  pepper  and 
salt,  fi\e  or  six  cloves,'  three  or  four  l)];u]e3 
of  mace,  a  bay-leaf  or  two  ;  boil  lluse  with 
the  lx>nes,  head,  and  fail,  well ;  dieu  put  in 
the  eel,  and  boil  it  till  it  is  tender;  then  take 
it  out,  and  boil  the  liquor,  and  when  it  is 
cold,  put  it  to  the  eel ;  do  not  take  ofl'  the 
cloth  till  you  use  them. 

EELS  FRIED.  Cut  them  into  piectes 
of  three  or  four  inches  long,  and  then  score 
across  in  two  or  three  places ;  seast)n  them 
with  pepper  and  salt,and  dust  Uiem  with  fl-jur, 
or  dip  them  into  an  egg  beat  up,  and  sprinkle 
Uiem  wiUi  finely-grated  bread  crumbs;  fry 
them  in  fresh  lard  or  dripping.  Let  them 
drain  and  dry  upon  the  back  of  a  sieve  be-' 
fore  the  fire.   Garnish  wiUi  paisley.    Sauce; 


EEL 


69 


EGG 


—melted  butter,  and  lemon  pickle.     If  small, 
they  may  be  curled  and  fried  whole. 

EEL  PIE.*  Take  eels  about  half  a  pound 
each ;  cut  tliem  into  pieces  three  inches  long, 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  lill 
your  dish.  Add  a  gill  of  water  or  veal 
broth,  cover  it  with  paste,  rub  it  over  with  a 
paste-brush  dipped  in  yolk  of  egg,  ornament 
it  with  some  of  tlie  same  paste,  bake  it  an 
hour;  and  when  done,  make  a  hole  in  tlie 
centre,  and  pour  in  the  following  sauce 
through  a  funnel:  the  trimmings  boiled  in 
half  a  pint  of  veal  stock,  seasoned  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
and  thickened  with  flour  and  watei',  strained 
tlirough  a  fine  sieve:  add  it  boiling  hot. 

EELS  POTTED.  Bone  diem;  season 
them  well  upon  both  sides  with  pepper,  salt, 
a  little  mace,  and  Jamaica  pepper ;  let  them 
lie  for  six  hours,  then  cut  them  into  small 
pieces,  and  pack  them  close  into  a  dish; 
cover  them  with  a  coarse  paste  and  bake 
them.  When  quite  cold,  take  off  the  paste, 
and  pour  over  them  clarified  butter. 

EEL  SOUP.     See  Soups. 

EELS  STEWED.  (1)  Cut  the  eels 
into  pieces  about  four  inches  long;  take  two 
onions,  two  shallots,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme,  two  bay  leaves,  a  little  mace,  black 
and  Jamaica  pppper,  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
the  same  of  Port  wine,  and  tlie  same  of  vin- 
egar, six  anchovies  bruised ;  let  all  boil  to- 
getlier  for  ten  minutes;  take  out  the  eels; 
boil  the  sauce  till  reduced  to  a  quart;  strain 
and  tliicken  it  with  a  table-spoonful  of  floui", 
mixed  smoodi  in  a  little  cold  water.  Put 
in  the  eels,  and  boil  them  till  they  are  ten- 
der. Eels  may  also  be  roasted  with  a  com- 
mon stuffing. 

EELS  STEWED.  (2)  Cut  the  eels 
into  pieces,  season  well  two  pounds  and  a 
half  with  salt  and  black  pepper,  put  an  ounce 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  a  large  handful 
of  sorrel,  three  or  four  sage  leaves,  half  an 
onion  cut  small,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel, 
and  one  anchovy  chopped;  put  in  the  eels 
and  pour  over  half  a  pint  of  water,  stew 
tliem  gently  for  half  an  hour,  shaking  them 
occasionally;  Ijefoie  serving,  add  a  little 
grated  nutmeg,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

EELS  SPITCHCOCKED.  This  the 
French  cooks  call  the  English  way  of  dress- 
ing eels.  Take  two  middling-sized  silver 
eels,  scour  them  with  salt,  slit  them  on  the 
belly  side,  and  take  out  the  bones  and  vrash 
and  wipe  them  nicely ;  then  cut  them  into 
pieces  about  three  inches  long,  and  wipe 
Uiem  quite  dry;   put  two  ounces  of  butter 


into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  minced  parsley, 
thyme,  sage,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  a  vei^ 
little  chopped  eschalot ;  set  the  stewpan 
over  the  fire ;  when  the  butter  is  melted, 
stir  die  ingredients  together,  and  take  it  off 
tlie  fire,  mix  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  them, 
and  dip  tlie  eel  in,  a  piece  at  a  time,  and 
then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  making  as 
much  stick  to  them  as  you  can  ;  then  rub 
the  gridiron  with  a  bit  of  suet,  set  it  high 
over  a  very  clear  fire,  and  broil  your  eels  of 
a  fine  crisp  brown.  Dish  them  with  crisp 
parsley,  and  send  up  with  plam  butter  in  a 
boat,  and  anchovy  and  butter. 

EGGS.  (1)  Eggs  may  be  preserved  for 
twelve  months,  in  a  sweet  and  palatable  state 
for  eating  in  the  shell,  or  using  for  salads,  by 
boiling  them  for  one  minute;  and  when 
wanted  for  use  let  them  be  boiled  in  the 
usual  manner:  the  white  may  be  a  little 
tougher  than  a  new-laid  egg,  but  the  yolk 
will  show  no  difference. 

EGGS.  (2)  Pour  a  gallon  of  water 
over  a  pound  of  unslacked  lime,  stir  it  well ; 
die  following  day,  pour  off  the  clear  water 
into  a  jar,  and  put  in  the  eggs  as  they  are 
laid.  In  tiiis  manner  tliey  will  continue 
perfectly  good  for  six  months  or  more. 

There  are  so  many  different  ways  of 
dressing  eggs,  that  the  recipes  would  almost 
fill  a  volume ;  we  have,  dierefore,  given  such 
as  we  esteem  the  best,  and  die  most  adapted 
to  the  English  taste. 

EGGS     AND    BACON     RAGOUT. 

Boil  half  a  dozen  eggs  for  ten  minutes; 
throw  them  into  cold  water;  peel  diem  and 
cut  them  into  halves ;  pound  the  yolks  in  a 
marble  mortar,  with  about  an  ecjual  fjuantity 
of  the  white  meat  of  dressed  fowl,  or  veal,  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  an  anchovy,  an  escha- 
lot, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  a  little  Cay- 
enne, some  bread-cruinbs,  and  a  very  little 
beaten  mace,  or  allspice ;  incorporate  them 
well  together,  and  fill  the  halves  of  the 
whites  with  this  mixture ;  do  diem  over 
witli  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  brown  them  in 
a  Dutch  oven,  and  sei  ve  them  on  relishing 
rashers  of  bacon  or  ham. 

EGGS  AND  BREAD.  Put  half  a  hand- 
ful of  bread  crambs  into  a  saucepan,  with  a 
small  quantity  of  cream,  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg,  and  let  it  stand  till  the  bread  has 
imbibed  all  the  cream ;  Uien  break  ten  egge 
into  it,  and  having  beaten  diem  up  together, 
fiy  it  like  an  omelet. 

TV 

EGGS  AND  CREAM.     Boil  half  a  pint . 
of  cream  till  reduced  to  half  the  quantity; 
dien  add  eight  eggs,  season  them  with  salt 


EGG 


70 


EGG 


and  pepper,  boil  lliem  together,  till  tlie  eggs 
are  partly  hard ;  i^at^s  a  ^aluinaiider  over  tlie 
top,  and  serve. 

EGGS  A  LA  TRIPE.  Cut  into  diick 
round  slices  a  dozen  of  hard-boiled  eggs, 
and  put  diein  into  the  following  sauce:  cut 
thvea  large  white  onions  into  dice,  fry  them 
white  in  Ijutter,  and  when  nearly  done,  dust 
them  witli  flour,  and  moisten  tliem  with  s<jme 
milk  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream;  keep 
stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  to  prevent 
tlieir  burning.  When  tlie  sauce  is  done, 
grate  in  a  little  nutmeg,  season  with  a  little 
--salt  and  pepper,  and  put  in  the  eggs. 

EGG  BALLS.  Boil  four  eggs  for  ten 
minutes,  and  put  diem  into  cold  water ;  when 
they  ai-e  quite  cold,  put  die  yolks  into  a 
mortar  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  same  of  chop|)ed  pai-sley, 
as  much  salt  as  will  lie  on  a  shilling,  and  a 
little  black  pepper,  or  Cayenne;  iiib  them 
well  together,  roll  diem  into  small  balls  (as 
they  swell  in  boiling) ;  boil  Uiem  a  couple 
of  minutes. 

EGGS  BOILED,  to  eat  in  the 
SHELL,  OR  FOR  SALADS.  The  fieslier 
laid  the  belter:  put  diem  into  boiling  water; 
if  you  like  the  white  just  set,  about  two 
minutes  boiling  is  enough;  anew-laid  egg 
will  take  a  little  more;  if  you  wish  die  yolk 
to  be  set,  it  will  take  three,  and  to  boil  it 
liard  for  a  salad,  ten  minutes.  A  new-laid 
egg  will  re(^uire  boiling  longer  than  a  stale 
one,  by  half  a  minute. 

EGGS  BOURGEOISE.  Spread  some 
butter  over  the  Ixdtom  of  a  dish,  cover  it 
entirely  with  thii\  slices  of  crumb  of  bread, 
on  diat  lay  thin  slices  of  cheese,  dien  eight 
or  ten  eggs,  season  diem  with  salt,  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  set  die  dish  over  a  stove  to  cook 
gently  till  done. 

EGGS,  BUTTERED.  Beat  and  strain 
ten  or  twelve  eggs ;  put  a  piece  of  butter  into 
a  saucepan  and  keep  turning  it  one  way 
tiU  melted ;  put  in  the  beaten  eggs,  and  stir 
them  round  with  a  silver  sjx)on  till  Uiey  be- 
come quite  thick.  Serve  diem  in  a  dish 
upon  buttered  toast.  They  may  be  eaten 
with  fisli,  fowl,  or  sausages. 

EGGS  EN  SURPRISE.  Take  a  dozen 
eggs,  and  make  a  small  hole  at  each  end  of 
every  egg,  through  which  pass  a  stmw  and 
break  the  yolk ;  dien  blow  out  the  yolk  care- 
fiilly.  Wash  the  shells,  and  having  drained, 
di-y  them  in  the  open  air ;  mix  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  widi  a  little  flour  to  close  one  of  the 
holes  of  the  shells,  and  when  dry,  fill  half  die 
nuuiber  by  means  of  ^   small  funnel,   vvidi 


chocolate  cream,  and  the  remaining  six  with 
coffee  or  orange-cream ;  close  the  other  end 
of  your  eggs,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
of  hot  water ;  set  them  on  tHfe  fire,  taking 
care  diey  do  not  boil ;  when  done,  remove 
the  cement  from  the  ends;  dry,  and  serve 
them  on  a  folded  napkin. 

EGGS,  FRIED.  Eggs  boiled  hard,  cut 
into  slices,  and  fried,  may  be  sen'ed  as  a 
second  coiu-se  dish,  to  eat  with  roasted 
chickens. 

EGGS  FRIED  WITH  BACON.     Lay 

some  slices  of  fine  streaked  bacon  (not  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick)  in  a  clean 
dish,  and  toast  them  Ix;fore  die  fire  in  a 
cheese-toaster,  tiu-ning  diem  when  the  upper 
side  is  browned ;  first  ask  diose  who  are  to 
eat  die  bacon,  if  they  wish  it  much  or  little 
done,  t.  e.  curled  and  crisfied,  or  mellow 
and  s<»ft:  if  the  latter,  parboil  it  first.  Well- 
cleansed  dripping,  or  lard,  or  fiesh  butter, 
are  the  best  fats  for  fiying  eggs.  Be  sure 
the  frying-pan  is  quite  clean ;  when  the  fat 
is  hot,  break  two  or  three  eggs  into  it ;  do 
not  turn  them,  but,  while  diey  are  fiying, 
keep  pouring  some  of  die  fat  over  them  with 
a  spoon ;  when  the  yolk  just  liegins  to  look 
white,  which  it  will  in  about  a  couple  of 
minutes,  they  are  done  enough;  die  white 
must  not  lose  its  transparency,  but  the  yolk 
lie  seen  blushing  through  it:  if  they  are 
done  nicely,  diey  will  look  as  white  and 
delicate  as  if  they  had  lieen  poached ;  take 
diem  up  widi  a  tin  slice,  drain  die  fat  from 
them,  trim  tliein  neatly,  and  send  diem  up 
widi  die  bacon  round  them. 

EGGS  FRIED,  AND  MINCED  HAM 

OR  BACON.  Choose  some  fine  salt  jioik, 
streaked  with  a  good  deal  of  lean ;  cut  this 
into  very  thin  slices,  and  afterward  into 
small  scjuare  pieces;  throw  them  into  a 
stewpan,  and  set  it  over  a  gentle  fire;  that 
diey  may  lose  some  of  their  fat.  W^hen  as 
much  as  Avill  fieely  come  is  thus  melted  fiom 
them,  lay  them  on  a  wiu-m  dish.  Put  into 
a  stew|}an  a  ladle-full  of  melted  bacon  or 
lard ;  set  it  on  a  stove ;  ))ut  in  abjut  a  dozen 
of  die  small  pieces  of  bacon,  dien  stoop  the 
stewpan  and  break  in  an  egg.  Manage  this 
carefully,  and  the  egg  will  presently  be  done: 
it  will  he  vei-y  round,  and  the  little  dice  of 
bacon  will  stick  to  it  all  over,  so  that  it  will 
make  a  very  pretty  apj)earance.  Take  care 
the  yolks  do  not  haiden ;  when  the  egg  is 
dius  done,  lay  it  carefully  in  a  warm  di&li, 
and  do  die  odiei-s. 

EGG  FRITTERS.  Pound  a  dozen 
hard  boiled  eggs  with  a  little  cream,  and  a 
(juarter  of  a  {Knmd  of  beef  marrow ;  then , 
pound  half  a  dozen  macaroons,  some  bitter 


EG  G 


almiQ^^,  a  little  sugar,  and  lemon-peel; 
mix  these  with  the  pounded  eggs,  and  form 
them  into  fritters,  dip  them  into  a  batter 
made  with  flour,  butter,  salt,  and  lemon- 
peel  ;  fry  them  in  vei-y  hot  lard,  sprinkle  su- 
gar over,  and  serve. 

EGGS  FROTHED.  Beat  up  the  yolks 
of  eight  eggs  and  die  whites  of  four  (set 
aside  the  remaining  whites)  with  a  spoonful 
of  water,  some  salt,  sugar,  and  die  juice  of  a 
lemon ;  fry  this,  and  tlien  put  it  on  a  dish ; 
whip  the  four  whites  (which  were  set  aside) 
to  a  froth  with  sugar,  and  place  it  over  the 
fried  eggs ;  bake  it  in  a  Dutch  oven,  or  with 
a  high  cover  fitted  for  tlie  purpose. 

EGGS,  GLASS.  Butter  a  dish,  and 
break  into  it  a  piece  of  butter  nearly  as  large 
as  an  egg:  add  a  tea-cupful  of  cream,  and 
drop  in  four  or  five  eggs ;  put  upon  each  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  set  the  dish  upon  a 
stove,  and  serve  it  when  the  eggs  are  firm, 
which  may  be  in  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

EGG  MARMALADE.  (1)  Blanch  and 
pound  with  a  little  rose  water,  two  ounces  of 
sweet  almonds,  the  same  of  orange  marmalade, 
and  four  of  citron;  add  two  spoonfuls  of  bran- 
dy, and  when  quite  smooth,  the  beaten  yolks  of 
six  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  with  a  little 
pounded  loaf  sugar;  put  it  into  a  saucepan, 
and  stir  it  till  it  becomes  thick,  then  pour  it 
into  a  shajx;.  When  quite  cold,  serve  it, 
turned  out  and  garnished  with  flowers. 

EGG  MARMALADE.  (2)  Clarifyapound 
of  sugar,  keeping  it  ratlier  thick ;  when  cool, 
add  to  it  the  yolks  of  twenty  eggs,  which 
sliould  be  perfectly  free  fiom  the  whites,  and 
well  stirred,  but  not  beaten;  set  these  on 
the  fire,  stining  continually  until  it  boils,  and 
then  continue  to  stir  until  sufficiently  thick; 
if  any  scum  should  arise,  it  need  not  be  taken 
off,  as  the  boilingandstirring  will  effectually 
remove  it.  Orange-flower  water  may  be 
added,  if  approved. 

EGGS,  TO  POACH.  The  cook  who 
wishes  to  display  her  skill  in  poadiing, 
must  endeavour  to  procure  eggs  that  have 
been  laid  a  couple  of  days — those  that  are 
quite  new-laid  are  so  milky  that,  take  all 
the  care  you  can,  your  cooking  of  them  will 
seldom  procure  you  the  praise  of  being  a 
prime  poacher;  you  must  have  fi-esh  eggs, 
or  it  is  equally  impossible.  The  beauty  of 
a  poached  egg  is  for  the  yolk  to  be  seen 
blushing  through  the  white,  which  should 
only  be  just  sufficiently  hardened,  to  form  a 
transparent  veil  for  the  egg.  Have'  some 
boiling  water  in  a  tea-kettle ;  pass  as  much 
of  it  through  a  clean  cloth  as  will  half  fill  a 
stewpan;    break   the  egg   into  a  cup,  and 


71  ELD 

when  tlie  water  boils,  remove  the  stewpan 
from  tile  stove,  and  gently  slip  the  egg  into 
it ;  it  must  stand  till  the  white  is  set ;  tlien 
put  it  over  a  very  moderate  fire,  and  as  soon 
as  the  water  boils,  the  egg  is  ready ;  take  it 
up  with  a  slice,  and  neatly  round  off  the 
ragged  edges  of  the  white;  send  them  up  on 
bread  toasted  on  one  side  only,  with  or  with- 
out butter;  or  without  a  toast,  garnished 
with  streaked  bacon  nicely  fried,  or  slices 
of  broiled  beef  or  mutton,  anchovies,  pork 
sausages,  or  spinage.  The  bread  should  be 
a  little  larger  than  die  egg,  and  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  Uiick ;  only  just  give  it  a 
yellow  color:  if  you  toast  it  brown,  it  will 
get  a  bitter  flavour ;  or  moisten  it  by  pour- 
ing a  little  hot  water  upon  it:  some  sprinkle 
it  wiUi  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  or  of  essence 
of  anchovy. 

EGGS  POACHED,  with  Sauce  of 
MINCED  Ham.  Poach  the  eggs  as  before 
directed,  and  take  two  or  three  slices  of 
boiled  ham;  mince  it  fine  with  a  gherkin,  a 
morsel  of  onion,  a  little  parsley,  and  jjepper 
and  salt ;  stew  all  together  a  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  seiTe  up  your  sauce  about  half  boiling ; 
put  the  eggs  in  a  dish,  squeeze  over  the  juice 
of  half  a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon,  and  pour 
the  sauce  over  them. 

EGG  PUNCH.  Take  a  punch-glass, 
and  put  into  it  a  wine-glass  of  sirup  of  punch 
(see  that  article),  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg; 
beat  them  together  with  a  spoon,  and  then 
fill  up  die  glass  with  boiling  water,  stirring 
a  litde  as  you  pour  it  in. 

EGG  TOAST.  Put  a  glass  of  thick 
cream,  some  sugar,  two  or  tlu'ee  macaroons 
pounded,  with  a  few  almonds,  a  little  grated 
lemon,  give  them  a  boil;  then  add  the  yolks 
of  eight  and  whites  of  three  eggs,  beat  the 
whole  up  over  a  slow  fire ;  and  lay  on  very 
thin  slices  of  fried  bread;  sprinkle  sugar 
over,  and  serve. 

EGG  WINE.  Beat  up  an  egg,  mix  with 
it  a  spoonful  of  cold  water ;  set  on  die  fire  a 
glass  of  white  wine,  half  a  glass  of  water, 
sugar,  and  nutmeg.  When  it  boils,  pour  a 
little  of  it  to  die  egg  by  degrees,  till  the 
whole  is  in,  stin-ing  it  weU;  then  return  the 
whole  into  the  saucepan,  set  it  over  a  gentle 
fire,  stir  it  one  way  for  a  minute,  not  longer, 
for  if  it  lx>il,  or  the  egg  is  stale,  it  will  curdle ; 
serve  widi  toast.  You  may  make  it  as  above, 
without  warming  the  egg,  and  it  will  be 
lighter  on  the  stomach,  though  not  so  agree- 
able to  the  palate. 

ELDER      FLOWER      FRITTERS. 

They  are  made  vvhilat  the  elder  flowers  are 
in  bloom;  and  they  diould  raai-inate  diree 


END 


72 


ESP 


or  four  hours  in  brandy,  sugar,  orange-flower 
water,  and  lemon-peel;  when  diained,  dip 
them  in  a  good  thick  batter  to  fry,  and  serve 
with  rasped  sugar,  as  in  general. 

ELDER  ROB.  Gatlier  the  elderberries 
when  quite  ripe,  put  them  into  a  stone  jar, 
tie  a  bladder  or  paper  over  tlie  top,  and 
place  the  jar  in  a  pan  of  water ;  let  it  boil 
till  the  terries  are  very  soft;  sti-ain  tliem 
through  a  coarse  cloth,  and  to  every  pint  of 
juice  allow  half  a  pound  of  good  brown  su- 
gar; put  it  into  a  preservnig-pan,  stir  it,  and 
when  it  boils,  take  off  the  scunj,  and  let  it 
boil  for  one  hour. 

ELDER  VINEGAR.  Choose  the  elder- 
flowers  when  just  blown,  take  away  all  the 
stalks,  and  when  tlie  flowers  are  alx)ut 
half  dry,  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  fill  the  jar 
with  vinegar,  close  it  tight,  and  let  it  stand 
in  the  sun  for  twenty  days ;  then  draw  it  off, 
press  the  flowers,  and  having  filtered  tiie 
whole,  bottle  it;  take  care  to  keep  the  bot- 
tles closely  corked. 

ELDERBERRIES.  Can  be  made  to 
produce  excellent  wine,  allowing  to  a  ten- 
gallon  cask  forty  pounds  of  fiuit,  forty  pounds 
of  sugai-,  and  a  (luarter  of  a  pound  of  tartar. 
When  elder ben-y  wine  is  desired  for  a  warm 
cordial,  it  is  made  in  tlie  following  manner: 
— Twenty-five  pounds  of  fruit  are  to  be  boil- 
ed for  an  hour,  in  eleven  gallons  of  water, 
and  along  with  it,  tied  in  a  piece  of  linen, 
one  ounce  of  allspice,  and  two  of  ginger; 
forty  pounds  of  sugar  being  put  into  a  tub, 
the  boiling  liquor  is  strained  over  it,  pressing 
tlie  fruit  quite  dry ;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
crude  tartar,  or  cream  of  tartar,  is  dien 
added  to  the  liquid.  When  it  has  stood  two 
days  in  the  tub,  it  may  lie  removed  to  the 
cask,  treated,  as  for  sweet  wine,  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  bottled  in  March  following. 
When  to  be  drank,  a  portion  of  it  is  heated 
with  some  sugar,  two  or  three  cloves,  and  a 
little  nutmeg. 

X 

EMPOTAGE.  Put  into  a  large  sauce- 
pan, three  or  four  pounds  of  beef-steaks,  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  and  foui*  old  hens ;  moisten 
this  quantity  of  meat  with  two  ladiesful  of 
broth ;  set  it  on  a  stove,  and  let  it  boil  till 
properly  reduced,  taking  care  that  none  of 
the  meat^  burns,  which  would  make  tlie 
empotage  of  too  high  a  color;  fill  up  your 
saucepan  with  broth,  adding  carrots,  turnips, 
and  onions;  let  all  lliese  ingredients  stand 
over  the  fire  for  tliree  hours  and  a  half;  then 
strain  the  whole  through  a  silk  sieve,  tliat 
it  may  be  perfectly  clear. 

ENDIVE  IN  VELOUTE.  Take  ofl" 
'all  the  outer  leaves  of  your  endive,  and  having 


opened  the  hearts,  put  them  into  cold  water 
to  wash  diem.  In  the  meanwhile  heat  a 
kettle  of  water,  put  in  it  a  handful  of  salt, 
then  throw  in  tlie  endive ;  keep  it  constantly 
under  die  water,  to  jirevent  their  turning 
black.  As  soon  as  the  endive  is  tender, 
drain,  and  then  put  it  into  cold  water,  and 
when  quite  cold,  drain  it  again ;  press  the 
water  out  with  your  hands ;  then  chop  it 
small,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  some 
butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  stir  it  well,  and 
then  add  five  spoonfuls  of  veloute,  the  same 
of  consomme;  reduce  it  till  pretty  thick,  and 
then  put  it  in  a  dish,  with  fried  bread  round 
it.  Endive  may  also  be  dressed  with  cream, 
in  which  case,  put  two  spoonfuls  of  flour  into 
it,  and  moisten  it  with  cream. 

ENDIVE   IN  .GRAVY    OF    VEAL. 

Wash  and  clean  thoroughly  ten  or  twelve 
heads  of  fine  endive,  take  oft'  the  outer  leaves, 
and  blanch  tlie  heads  in  hot  water ;  throw 
them  into  cold  water,  and  then  scuieeze  them 
as  dry  as  possible.  Stew  them  in  as  much 
gravy  as  will  cover  them ;  add  a  tea-spoon- 
fiil  of  pounded  sugar,  and  a  little  salt.  When 
perfectly  tender,  put  in  a  little  veloute  sauce, 
and  serve  quite  hot. 

ENTREE.  There  is  no  word  precisely 
equivalent  to  this  in  English.  Any  dish  of 
butcher's  meat,  fowl,  game,  or  fish,  dressed 
for  the  Jirst  course,  is  called  an  entree. 

ENTREMET.  There  is  no  word  equiv- 
alent to  this  in  English.  All  dishes  of  veg- 
etables, jellies,  pastries,  salad,  prawns,  lob- 
sters, and,  in  general,  everything  that  aj)pears 
in  the  second  course,  except  die  roast,  is 
called  an  entremet. 

ESCHALOT  WINE.  Peel,  mince,  and 
pound  in  a  mortar,  diree  ounces  of  eschalots, 
and  infuse  them  in  a  pint  of  Sherry  for  ten 
days ;  then  pour  oft"  the  clear  liquor  on  tliree 
ounces  more  eschalots,  and  let  the  wine 
stand  on  them  ten  days  longer.  This  is 
rather  the  most  expensive,  but  infinitely 
the  most  elegant  preparation  of  eschalot, 
and  imparts  the  onion  flavour  to  soups  and  ■ 
sauces,  for  chops,  steaks,  or  bioiled  meats, 
hashes,  &c.  more  agreeably  tlian  any : 
it  does  not  leave  any  unpleasant  taste  in 
tlie  mouth,  or  to  the  breath  ;  nor  repeat, 
as  almost  all  other  preparations  of  garlic, 
onion,  &c.  do.  N.  B. — An  ounce  of  scraped 
horseradish  may  be  added  to  the  above,  and 
a  little  tliin-cut  lemon-peel. 

ESPAGNOLE.  Take  an  old  fowl,  and 
about  fourteen  pounds  of  leg  or  shoulder  of 
veal ;  chop  the  latter  into  pieces,  and  put  it, 
widi  very  little  water,  into  a  large  saucepan, 
with  two  carrots,  three  onions,  a  pound  of 


FIL 


73 


FIS 


faan,  B  few  peppercorns,  a  small  quantity  of 
spice,  and  a  clove  of  garlic ;  let  this  stew 
over  a  moderate  fire,  sliaking  it  fitHjueiitly, 
till  it  becomes  of  a  brown  color,  when  you 
may  add  to  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of  hot 
Mrater,  to  come  about  four  inches  above  the 
meat.  '  Set  it  by  the  side  of  die  stove  to  boil 
gently,  skimming  when  necessary,  till  the 
meat  comes  from  the  bones ;  then  strain  it 
tlirough  a  silk  sieve,  and  set  it  by  for  use. 

ESSENCE.  Take  half  a  Ijottle  of  white 
wine,  half  a  glass  of  the  best  vinegar,  the 
juice  of  two  lemons,  thi-ee  ounces  of  salt, 
half  an  ounce  of  whole  pepper,  a  little  nut- 
meg and  mace,  four  cloves,  four  bay-leaves, 
thyme,  parsley,  one  small  clove  of  garlic,  ten 
shallots,  pounded,  and  an  ounce  of  diy  mush- 
rooms; put  all  tliese  ingredients  into  an 
earthen  pan,  over  a  brisk  iire ;  when  near 
boiling,  lessen  the  fire,  and  let  it  stand 
on  hot  ashes  for  six  or  seven  hours;  then 
strain  it  tlu-ough  a  coarse  sieve,  and  after- 
wards filter  it.  Keep  it  in  closely  corked 
bottles:  a  small  quantity  is  sufficient  to  fla- 
vour a  dish. 


F. 


FANCHONETTES.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, two  ounces  of  flour,  three  of  sugar,  one 
of  butter,  two  of  pounded  almonds,  some 
green  lemon-peel,  two  yolks,  and  one  whole 
egg,  a  little  salt,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk; 
put  these  ingredients  on  tlie  fire,  and  let  them 
set  like  a  cream ;  line  some  tartlet-tins,  or 
moulds,  widi  puff"  paste,  fill  them  with  the 
preparation;  place  the  moulds  on  a  tin,  and 
bake  the  fanchonettes  in  a  brisk  oven ;  when 
about  three  parts  done,  take  them  out,  put 
frotlied  eggs  on,  sprinkle  sugar  over,  and  re- 
place them  in  the  oven  to  finish  the  baking. 

FAWN,  Like  a  sucking  pig,  should  be 
dressed  almost  as  soon  as  killed.  When 
very  young,  it  is  trussed,  stuffed,  and  spit- 
ted the  same  way  as  a  hare:  but  they  are 
better  eating  when  of  the  size  of  a  house 
lamb,  and  are  then  roasted  in  quarters ;  the 
hind-quarter  is  most  esteemed. 

They  must  be  put  down  to  a  very  quick 
fire,  and  eitlier  basted  all  the  time  they  are 
roasting,  or  be  covered  with  sheets  of  fat 
bacon ;  when  done,  baste  it  with  butter,  and 
dredge  it  with  a  little  salt  and  flour,  till 
you  make  a  i:ice  froth  on  it. 

N.  B. — We  advise  our  friends  to  half 
roast  a  fawn  as  soon  as  they  receive  it,  and 
then  make  a  hash  of  it. 

Send  up  venison  sauce  with  it. 


FILBERT  ROLLS. 
7 


Having  peeled 


half  a  pound  of  filberts,  put  them  into  a 
preserving  pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and 
stir  them  constantly  with  a  spatula  until 
they  become  equally  colored  of  a  light  yel- 
low: tlien  set  them  to  cool.  When  cold, 
pound  diem  with  a  little  white  of  egg  to  a 
paste ;  then  mix  them  with  half  a  pound  of 
flour,  the  same  of  powder  sugar,  and  the 
yolks  of  four  or  five  eggs,  and  then  finish 
the  operation  as  directed  for  almond  rolls. 
Froth,  and  trace  on  the  surface  an  ear  of 
wheat,  or  anything  else,  with  die  point  of  a 
knife:  take  care  to  dry  them  well  in  the 
baking,  that  they  may  be  crisp.  Coarse 
powdei*  sugar  may  also  be  strewed  ovei",  be- 
fore they  are  put  in  the  oven. 

FISH.  We  insert  all  the  best  remarks 
that  various  culinary  authors  have  made 
on  Fish. 

There  is  a  general  rule  in  choosing 
most  kinds  of  fish;  if  their  gills  are  red, 
their  eyes  plump,  and  the  whole  fish  stiff", 
they  are  good ;  if,  on  the  contrary,  the  gills 
are  pale,  the  eyes  sunk,  and  the  fish  flabby, 
they  are  stale.  The  greatest  care  should 
be  taken  that  the  fish  is  properly  cleansed 
before  being  dressed,  but  not  washed  be- 
yond what  is  absolutely  necessary  for  clean- 
ing, as  by  perpetual  watering,  the  flavour 
is  diminished.  When  clean,  if  the  fish  is 
to  be  boiled,  some  salt,  and  a  little  vinegar 
should  be  put  into  the  water,  to  give  it 
finnness.  Care  should  be  taken  to  boil  the 
fish  well,  but  not  to  let  it  break.  Cod, 
whiting,  and  haddock  are  much  better  for 
being  a  little  salted,   and   kept  for  a  day. 

There  is  often  a  muddy  smell  and  taste  at- 
tached to  fresh-water  fish,  which  may  be 
got  rid  of  by  soaking  it,  after  it  has  been 
diorouglily  cleaned  in  strong  salt  and  wa- 
ter ;  or,  if  the  fish  is  not  too  large,  scald  it 
in  the  same ;  then  dry,  and  dress  it. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  die  fish  is  put  into 
cold  water,  and  allowed  to  do  very  gently, 
otherwise  the  outside  will  break  before  the 
inside  is  done. 

Crimp  fish  must  be  put  into  boiling  water ; 
and  as  soon  as  it  boils  up,  a  little  cold 
water  should  be  put  in,  to" check  die  exces- 
sive heat,  and  simmer  it  for  a  few  minutes. 

If  the  fish  is  not  taken  out  of  the  water 
the  instant  it  is  done,  it  wiU  become  wool- 
ly; to  ascertain  when  it  is  ready,  the  fish 
plate  on  which  it  is  dressed  may  be  drawn 
up,  and  if  sufficiently  done,  it  will  leave  the 
bone.  To  keep  hot  for  serving,  aiid  to 
prevent  it  fiom  losing  its  color,  the  fish 
plate  should  be  placed  crossways  over  the 
fish-kettle,  and  a  clean  cloth  put  over  the  fish. 

Small  fish  may  be  either  nicely  firied 
plain,  or  done  over  with  egg  and  bread 
crumbs,  and  then  fried.  Upon  tlie  dish  on 
which  the  fish  is  to  he  served,  should  be 


FIB 


74 


FIS 


placed  a  folded  damask  napkin,  and  upon 
this  put  the  fish,  with  llie  liver  and  roe; 
then  garnish  the  dish  with  horse-radish, 
pjirsley,  and  lemon.  Fish  is  a  dish  which 
18  almost  more  attended  to  than  any  other. 

To  fry  or  broil  fish  properly,  after  it 
b  well  cleaned  and  washed,  it  should  be 
wrapped  in  a  nice  soft  cloth,  and  when 
perfectly  di-y,  wetted  with  egg,  and  sprink- 
led all  over  widi  very  fine  bread  crumbs ;  it 
will  look  still  better  to  be  done  over  with 
egg  and  crumbs  a  second  time.  Then  liav- 
ing  on  the  fire  a  thick-bottomed  frying-pan, 
with  plenty  of  lard  or  dripping,  boiling  hot; 
put  the  fish  into  it,  and  let  it  fry  tolerably 
quick  till  it  is  done,  and  of  a  nice  brown 
yellow.  If  it  is  done  before  it  has  obtained 
a  nice  brown  color,  the  pan  should  be  drawn 
to  tlie  side  of  the  fire,  the  fish  carefully 
taken  up,  and  placed  either  upon  a  sieve 
turned  upwards,  or  on  the  under  side  of 
k  dish,  and  placed  l)efore  the  fii-e  to  drain, 
and  finish  browning;  if  wanted  particularly 
nice,  a  sheet  of  cap  paper  must  be  put  to 
receive  the  fish.  Fish  fried  in  oil  obtains  a 
much  finer  color  than  when  done  in  lard  or 
dripping.  Butter  should  never  be  used,  as 
it  give^  a  bad  color.  Garnish  your  dish 
with  a  fringe  of  cm-led  raw  parsley,  or  with 
fried  parsley. 

When  fish  is  to  be  broiled,  it  must  be 
seasoned,  floured,  and  done  on  a  veiy  clean 
gridiron;  which,  when  hot,  should  be  rub- 
bed over  with  suet,  to  hinder  the  fish  from 
sticking.  It  should  be  broiled  over  a  very 
clear  fire,  to  prevent  its  tasting  smoky,  and 
gieat  care  must  be  taken  not  to  scorch  it. 

FISH.  This  department  of  the  busi- 
ness of  the  kitchen  requires  consideiable  ex- 
perience, and  depends  more  upon  practice 
than  any  otjier.  A  very  few  moinents,  more 
or  less,  will  thoroughly  spoil  fish ;  which,  to 
be  eaten  in  perfection,  must  never  be  put 
on  tJie  table  till  the  soup  is  taken  off. 

So  many  circumstajices  operate  on  this 
occasion,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
write  general  rules. 

There  are  decidedly  different  opinions, 
whether  fish  should  be  put  into  cold,  tepid, 
or   boiling   water. 

Fish  must  by  no  means  be  allowed  to  re- 
main in  tlie  water  after  it  is  boiled;  if 
therefore  it  should  be  ready  before  it  can  he 
sent  to  table,  it  must  be  dished,  the  cover 
put  on,  and  a  cloth  put  over  it.  The  dish 
is  then  to  be  set  across  the  fish-kettle. 

Fish  should  be  fried  over  a  clear  quick 
fire  ;  and  with  dripping,  or  hog's  lard  in 
preference  to  butter.  The  ^lan  should  be 
deep;  and  to  ascertain  that  it  is  clean,  a 
little  fat  is  first  fried  in  it,  poured  out,  and 
the  pan  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth;  as  much 
dripping  or  lard  is  tlien  put  in  as  will  en- 


tirely cover  the  fish.  When  it  is  boiling 
hot,  and  begins  to  smoke,  the  fish  is  put  in ; 
if  small,  tliey  may  be  turned  in  three  or  four 
minutes,  by  sticking  in  a  fork  near  the  head 
with  one  hand,  and  with  the  otlier  support- 
ing the  tail  with  a  fish-slice.  When  they 
are  done,  they  should  be  laid  before  tbe 
fire  upon  an  old  soft  towel,  and  tumed  now 
and  then  till  tliey  are  dry  upon  boUi  sides ; 
or  they  may  be  put  upon  a  targe  sieve, 
turned  upwards,  and  which  is  kept  for  the 
purpose,  or  put  on  the  under  side  of  a  dish. 

The  fire  for  broiling  fish  must  be  very 
clear,  and  the  gridiron  perfectly  clean, 
which,  when  hot,  should  be  rubbed  with  a 
bit  of  suet.  The  fish,  while  broiling,  must 
be  often  turned. 

Several  I'espectable  fishmongers  and  ex- 
perienced cooks  have  assured  the  editor, 
that  they  are  often  in  danger  of  losing  their 
credit  by  fish  too  fresh,  and  especially  tur- 
bot  and  cod,  which,  like  meat,  require  a 
certain  time  before  tliey  are  in  the  best  con- 
dition to  be  dressed.  They  reconnnend 
them  to  be  put  into  cold  water,  salted  in 
proportion  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  [wund  of 
salt  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Sea-water  is 
best  to  boil  sea -fish  in.  It  not  only  saves  the 
expense  of  salt,  but  the  flavor  is  better.  Let 
them  boil  slowly  till  done;  the  sign  of  which 
is,  that  the  skin  of  tlie  fish  rises  up,  and 
the  eyes  turn  white. 

It  is  tlie  business  of  the  fishmonger  to 
clean  them,  &.c.  but  the  careful  cook  will 
always  wash  them  again. 

Gainish  with  slices  of  lemon, finely  scrap- 
ed horseradish,  fi-ied  oysters,  smelts,  whit- 
ings or  strips  of  soles. 

The  liver,  roe,  and  chitterlings  should  be 
placed  so  that  the  carver  may  obser\e  diem, 
and  invite  the  guest  to  partake  of  them. 

Fish,  like  meat,  recjuires  more  cooking 
in  cold  than  in  warm  weatlier.  If  it  be- 
comes FROZEN,  it  must  be  thawed  by  the 
means  we  have  directed  for  meat. 

Fish  are  plenty  and  good,  and  in  great 
variety,  in  all  the  towns  and  cities  on  the 
extensive  coast  of  the  United  States.  Some 
of  the  interior  towns  are  also  supplied  with 
fish  peculiai-  to  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  this 
country. 

All  kinds  of  fish  are  best  sometime  before 
diey  begin  to  spawn ;  and  are  unfit  for  food 
for  sometime  after  they  have  spawned. 

Fish,  like  animals,  are  fittest  for  tlie  ta- 
ble when  diey  aie  just  fiiU  grown ;  and  what 
has  lieen  said  respecting  vegetables,  applies 
equally  well  to  fish. 

The  most  convenient  utensil  to  boil  fish 
in,  is  a  turbot-kettle.  This  sliould  be 
twenty-four  inches  long,  twenty-two  wide, 
and  nine  deep.  It  is  an  excellent  vessel  to 
boil  a  ham  in,  &c.  &c. 

N.  B.— The  liver  of  the  fish  pounded  and 


FIS 


75 


FLE 


mixed  with  butter,  with  a  little  lemon-juice, 
&c.  is  an  elegant  and  inoffensive  relish  to 
fish.  Musluoom  sauce  extempore  or  the 
soup  of  mock  turtle,  will  make  an  excellent 
fish  sauce. 

For  liquids,  you  have  meat  gi'avy,  lemon- 
juice,  sirup  of  lemons,  essence  of  anchovy, 
the  various  vegetable  essences,  musluoom 
catchup,  and  the  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs, 
wines,  and  the  essence  of  spices. 

FISH,    NEW    METHOD    OF    DRESSING. 

Talie  any  sort  of  fish  you  tliinl^  proper,  be- 
ing very  careful  that  it  is  quite  fresli ;  clean 
it  tlioroughiy,  dry,  and  season  it  to  your 
taste;  then  put  it  (without  any  moisture), 
into  a  pan,  which  may  be  closely  covered, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  hole,  to  allow 
of  evaporation.  Put  it  into  an  oven  as  soon 
as  the  bread  is  drawn,  and  let  it  stand  until 
the  whole  is  so  completely  dissolved,  that 
the  bones  are  not  perceptible.  When  cold, 
this  malces  a  very  transpai'ent,  well-flavored 
jelly. 

FISH  CONSOMME.  Take  carp,  tench, 
perch,  eels,  pike,  and  odier  fiesh-water  fish 
of  the  same  kind;  clean  them  well,  and  cut 
them  into  pieces,  as  near  of  a  size  as  may 
be;  lay  tliem  in  a  stewpan,  on  a  layer  of 
sliced  onions  and  carrots ;  as  soon  as  they 
begin  to  sweat,  put  in  a  bit  of  butter,  and 
leave  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  mois- 
ten them  with  fish  brotli,  and  let  them  boil 
gently  for  an  hour;  keep  the  pan  closely 
covered ;  this  will  afford  a  very  nourishing 
brotli. 

FISH  KETCHUP.  Take  rather  more 
tlian  a  pint  of  vinegar,  three  pints  of  red 
Port,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  pepper,  pound- 
ed very  fine,  plenty  of  shallots  and  horse- 
radish, the  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and  two  or 
three  bay-leaves,  and  a  pound  of  anchovies ; 
let  die  whole  boil  together  until  the  ancho- 
vies are  dissolved,  then  strain,  and  when 
cold,  put  it  into  bottles.  Two  or  three 
spoonfuls  are  sufficient  foi-  a  pouiid  of 
butter. 

FISH  FORCEMEAT.  Take  two  oun- 
ces of  either  turbot,  sole,  lobster,  shrimps, 
or  oysters;  free  from  skin,  put  it  in  a  mor- 
tar with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  one 
ounce  of  bread-crumbs,  the  yolk  of  two  eggs 
boiled  hard,  and  a  little  eschalot,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  parsley,  minced  very  fine; 
then  pound  it  well  till  it  is  thoroughly  mixed 
and  quite  smooth;  season  it  with  salt  and 
Cayenne  to  your  taste ;  break  in  the  yolk 
and  white  of  one  egg,  rub  it  well  together, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Oysteis  parboiled 
and  minced  fine,  and  an  anchovy,  may  be 
»dded,  / 


FISH  GRAVY.  (1)  Cut  two  or  three 
little  fish  of  any  kind  into  small  pieces ;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan,  with  rather  more 
water  than  will  cover  them,  a  bit  of  toasted 
bread,  a  blade  of  mace,  some  lemon-peel, 
whole  pepper,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ; 
let  it  simmer  gently  till  it  is  rich  and  good; 
brown  a  little  bit  of  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
and  when  it  is  browned,  strain  the  gravy  in- 
to it,  aud  let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes. 

FISH  GRAVY.  (2)  Put  some  slices 
of  onion  into  a  stewpan,  and  set  them  on 
the  fire ;  when  they  are  completely  dissolved, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  some  small  fish, 
or  pieces  of  carp,  tench,  perch,  or  any  other 
you  find  convenient.  As  soon  as  tliey  begin 
to  dissolve,  and  give  out  their  moisture,  put 
a  glassful  of  root  broth  to  them,  and  boil 
tliem  for  half  an  hour ;  then  add  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  and  a  little  lemon-juice,  and 
boil  it  another  half  hour,  when  it  may  be 
pressed  dirough  a  sieve,  widi  great  force. 

FISH  RECHAUFFE.  (1)  After  pike, 
cod,  skate,  turbot,  soles,  or  any  other  white 
fish  has  been  dressed,  pick  it  from  the  bones 
into  small  bits  ;  add  to  a  pound  of  fish,  or 
in  die  same  proportion,  haljf  a  pint  of  good 
cream,  one  table-spoonful  of  mustard,  the 
same  of  anchovy  e&sence,  the  same  of  ketch- 
up, and  of  Hai'vey  sauce,  a  little  flour,  some 
salt,  pepper,  and  butter ;  make  it  all  hot  in 
the  saucepan,  then  put  it  into  the  dish  in 
which  it  is  to  be  served  up,  strew  cnimbs 
of  bread  over  it,  and  baste  it  with  butter  till 
it  is  a  little  moist,  then  brown  it  with  a 
salamander,  or  in  a  Dutch  oven.  A  wall 
of  mashed  potatoes  round  the  dish  is  an  im- 
provement. 

FISH  RECHAUFFE.  (2)  Pick  from 
the  bone  in  large  flakes  about  two  pounds 
of  cold  salmon,  cod  fish,  or  soles ;  melt  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  with  a  little  flour  and  salt;  add  the 
fish  and  heat  it  thoroughly. 

FISH  SAUCE.     See  Sauces. 

FLEMISH  WAFERS.  Put  into  a 
deep  pan  half  a  pound  of  flour;  strain  and 
mix  with  it  half  a  pint  of  vvamicd  milk,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  fresh  } east ;  work  the 
paste  till  it  be  si)ft  and  smooth,  and  place  it 
in  a  stove,  or  cluse  to  the  fijc,  to  rise;  then 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter  beaten  to  a  cream, 
and  a  lump  of  sugar  which  has  been  rubbed 
upon  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  then  pounded; 
last  of  all,  beat  in  lightly  the  well-whisked 
whites  of  the  eggs ;  again  |)luce  the  pan  in 
a  wai-m  place,  and  it  will  rise  to  nearly 
double  its  bulk,     Heat  and  rub  the  irons. 


FLU 


76 


FOR 


which  should  be  square,  with  a  little  butter; 
fill  one  side  with  the  mixture,  and  close 
them ;  when  one  side  is  done  turn  the  oth- 
er, and  when  of  a  fine  color,  take  out  the 
wafers;  put  them  upon  a  plate,  and  whilst 
hot,  sift  over  this  quantity  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  grated  loaf  sugar. 

FLIP.  To  make  a  quart  of  flip:— Put 
the  ale  on  the  fire  to  warm,  and  beat  up 
tliree  or  four  eggs,  with  four  ounces  of  moist 
sugar,  a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg  or 
ginger,  and  a  quartern  of  good  old  rum  or 
brandy.  When  the  ale  nearly  boils  put  it 
into  one  pitcher,  and  the  rum,  eggs,  &c.  in- 
to another ;  turn  it  from  one  to  another  till 
it  is  as  smooth  as  cream.  This  is  called  a 
Yard  of  Flannel. 

FLOATING  ISLAND.  Boil,  with  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  half  the 
peel  of  a  lemon;  when  almost  cold,  strain  it. 
and  mix  with  it  the  beaten  white  of  one,  and 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs;  stir  it  over  the  fire  till 
thick,  pour  it  into  a  dish,  and  stir  it  now 
and  then  till  cold.  Whisk  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  and  half  a  pint  of  Guava,  quince, 
or  red  currant  jelly,  till  it  be  a  very  stiff. 

FLOUNDERS  BOILED.  (1)  Put  on  a 
stewpan  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water 
to  cover  the  flounders  which  are  to  be  dres- 
sed ;  put  in  some  vinegar  and  horse-radish ; 
when  the  water  boils  put  in  the  fish,  having 
been  fii-st  well  cleaned,  and  their  fins  cut  off; 
ihey  mustiiot  boil  too  fast  for  fear  they  should 
break ;  when  they  are  sufficiently  done,  lay 
them  on  a  fish  plate,  the  tails  in  tiie  middle. 
Serve  them  with  parsley  and  butter. 

FLOUNDERS  BOILED.  (2)  Wash  and 
clean  them  well,  cut  the  black  side  of  them 
the  same  as  you  do  turbot,  then  put  them  in- 
to a  fish-kettle,  with  plenty  of  cold  water 
and  a  handful  of  salt ;  when  they  come  to  a 
boil,  skim  them  clean,  and  let  them  stand 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  and 
they  are  ready.  Obs. — Eaten  with  plain 
melted  butter  and  a  little  salt,  you  have  the 
sweet  delicate  flavor  of  the  flounder,  which 
is  over'powered  by  any  sauce. 

FLOUNDERS  or  PLAICE,  fried  or 
BOILED.  Flounders  are  perhaps  the  most 
difficult  fish  to  fry  very  nicely.  Clean  them 
well,  flour 'them,'and  wipe  them  with  a  dry 
cloth  to  absorb  all  the  water  from  them; 
flour  or  egg  and  bread-crumb  tliem. 

FLUMMERY.  Steep  three  large  hand- 
fuls  of  very  small  white  oatmeal  a  day  and 
night  in  cold  water;  then  pour  it  off  clear; 
then  add  as  much  more  water,  and  let  it 
stand  another  day  and   a  night,      Then 


strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  boil 
it  till  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  hasty  pud- 
ding, keeping  it  well  stirred  all  the  time  it 
is  boiling.  When  first  strained,  put  to  it 
one  laige  spoonful  of  white  sugar,  and  two 
of  orange-flower  water.  Pour  it  into  shal- 
low dishes,  and  serve  to  eat  with  wine,  ci- 
der, milk  or  cream,  and  sugar. 

FLUMMERY  DUTCH.  Boil  yeiy 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  two  ounces  of  isin- 
glass in  three  half  pints  of  water ;  add  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  the  juice  of  three  lemons  and 
the  thin  rind  of  one,  and  rub  a  few  lumps 
of  sugar  on  another  to  obtain  the  essence, 
and  with  them  add  as  much  more  sugar  as 
will  make  it  sufficiently  sweet;  and  having 
beaten  up  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs,  give  tliem 
and  the  above,  when  mixed,  one  scald;  stir 
all  the  time,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  ba- 
sin; stir  it  till  it  is  half  cold;  then  let  it 
settle,  and  put  it  into  a  melon  shape. 

FLUMMERY  FRENCH.  Beat  an 
ounce  of  isinglass  fine,  put  it  into  a  quart  of 
cream,  and  boil  it  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  keeping  it  stirring  all  the  time.  Then 
take  it  off,  sweeten  it  with  fine  powder  su- 
gar, put  in  a  spoonful  of  rose  and  anotlier 
of  orange-flower  water,  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  and  stir  it  till  half  cold.  Put  it  into 
a  mould  or  basin,  and  when  cold,  turn  it  in- 
to a  dish,  and  garnish  witii  currant  jelly. 

FONDUS.  Put  some  grated  cheese  into 
a  basin,  with  pepper  and  a  little  melted  but- 
ter, and  tlie  yolks  of  eggs ;  stir  them  togeth- 
er ;  whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  firm 
froth,  and  add  them,  a  little  at  a  time,  to 
the  cheese,  stirring  lightly  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  half  fill  as  many  paper  cases  as  you 
can,  and  bake  them,  like  biscuits,  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Serve  them  as  quickly  as 
possible  after  they  are  done. 

FORCEMEAT  STUFFING.  Force- 
meat is  now  considered  an  indispensable 
accompaniment  to  most  made  dishes,  and 
when  composed  with  good  taste,  gives  ad- 
ditional spirit  and  relish  to  even  that  "  sove- 
reign of  savouriness,"  turtle  soup. 

It  is  also  sent  up  in  patties,  and  for  stuf- 
fing of  veal,  game,  poultry,  &c. 

The  ingredients  should  be  so  proportion- 
ed, that  no  one  flavor  predominates. 

To  give  the  same  stuffing  for  veal,  hare, 
&c.  argues  a  poverty  of  invention ;  with  a 
little  contrivance,  you  may  make  as  great 
a  variety  as  you  have  dishes. 

The  poignancy  of  forcemeat  should  be 
proportioned  to  the  savouriness  of  the  viands, 
to  which  it  is  intended  to  give  an  additional 
'est.  Some  dishes  require  a  very  delicate- 
ly flavored  forcemeat,   for   others,  it  must 


FOR 


77 


FOW 


be  full  and  high  seasoned.  What  would  be 
piquant e  in  a  turkey,  would  be  insipid  witli 
turtle. 

Most  people  have  an  acquired  and  pecu- 
liar taste  in  stuffings,  &c.  and  what  exactly 
pleas^  one,  seldom  is  precisely  what  an- 
other considers  the  most  agieeable. 

Custom  is  all  in  matters  of  taste :  it  is  not 
that  one  person  is  natui-aliy  fond  of  this  or 
that,  and  another  naturally  averse  to  it ;  but 
that  one  is  used  to  it,  and  anodier  is  not. 

The  consistency  of  forcemeats  is  rather  a 
difficult  thing  to  manage ;  they  are  almost 
always  either  too  light  or  too  heavy. 

Take  care  to  pound  it  till  perfectly  smooth, 
and  that  all  the  ingredients  are  tlioroughly 
incorporated. 

Forcemeat-balls  must  not  be  larger  tlian 
a  small  nutmeg.  If  they  are  for  brown 
sauce,  flour  and  fi*y  them;  if  for  white,  put 
them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  for 
three  minutes:  the  latter  are  by  far  tiie  most 
delicate. 

If  not  of  sufficient  stiffiiess,  it  falls  to 
pieces,  and  makes  soup,  &c.  grouty  and 
veiy  unsightly. 

Sweetbreads  and  tongues  are  the  favorite 
materials  for  forcemeat.  Forcemeat  should 
be  made  sufficiently  consistent  to  cut  with  a 
knife,  but  not  dry  or  heavy.  No  one  flavor 
should  predominate  greatly;  according  to 
what  it  is  wanted  for,  a  selection  may  be 
made  from  tlie  following  list,  being  careful 
to  use  the  least  of  those  articles  which  are 
the  most  pungent: 

Cold  fowl,  or  veal,  scraped  ham,  fat  ba- 
con, beef  suet,  crumbs  of  bread,  parsley, 
white  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  yolks  and  whites 
of  eggs,  well  beaten,  to  bind  the  mixture. 

The  forcemeat  may  be  made  with  any 
of  these  articles  without  any  striking  flavor; 
therefore  any  of  the  following  dift'erent  ingie- 
dients  may  be  made  use  of  to  vary  the  taste. 

Oysters,  anchovies,  tarragon,  savory,  pen- 
ny-royal, knotted-marjoram,  thyme,  basil, 
yolks  of  hard  eggs,  cayenne,  garlic,  shallots, 
chives,  Jamaica  pepper  in  fine  powder,  or 
two  or  tliree  cloves. 

To  force  or  stuff  turkeys,  geese,  ducks, 
&c.,  see  under  the  heads  of  the  different 
ways  of  dressing  turkeys,  geese,  &c. 

FORCEMEAT.  Take  an  equal  quantity 
of  lean  veal  scraped,  and  beef  suet  shred ; 
beat  them  in  a  marble  mortar ;  add  pepper, 
salt,  cloves,  pounded  lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg 
grated,  parsley  and  sweet  herbs,  chopped 
flne,  a  little  shallot  and  young  onion,  a  few 
bread-crumbs  grated  fine,  and  yolk  of  egg 
sufficient  to  work  it  light;  roll  this  into 
balls  with  a  little  flour;  if  for  white  sauce, 
boil  them ;  if  for  brown  sauce,  67  them. 

FORCEMEAT  BALLS    FOR  FISH 

7* 


Soups,  or  Fish  stewed.  Beat  tlie 
flesh  and  soft  parts  of  a  middling  sized  lob- 
ster, half  an  anchovy,  a  large  piece  of  boil- 
ed celery,  the  yolk  of  a  hard  egg,  a  little 
Cayenne,  mace,  salt,  and  white  pepper, 
wiUi  two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs, 
one  spoonful  of  oyster  liquor,  two  ounces  of 
butter  warmed,  two  eggs  beaten  for  a  long 
time ;  make  into  balls,  and  fiy  them  of  a 
nice  brown  color  in  butter. 

FORCEMEAT-BALLS  fok  Turtle, 
Mock    Turtle,   or    Made    Dishes. 

Pound  some  veal  in  a  marble  mortar ;  rub 
it  tlirough  a  sieve  with  as  much  of  the  udder 
as  you  have  veal,  or  about  a  third  of  the 
quantity  of  butter:  put  some  bread-crumbs 
into  a  stewpan,  moisten  them  with  milk, 
add  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  eschalot, 
rub  them  well  together  in  a  mortar  tiH  they 
form  a  smooth  paste ;  put  it  through  a  sieve, 
and,  when  cold,  jxjund,  and  mix  all  togeth- 
er, with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  boiled  hard ; 
season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  curry  pow- 
der, or  Cayenne ;  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  two 
raw  eggs ;  rub  it  well  together,  and  make 
small  balls:  ten  minutes  before  your  soup  is 
ready,  put  tliera  in, 

FOWLS.  When  a  cock  is  young,  his 
spurs  are  short ;  take  care  that  you  are  not 
deceived  by  theii-  having  been  cut  or  pai-ed, 
a  trick  that  is  often  practised.  If  fresh 
their  vent  will  be  close  and  dark.  Hens 
are  best,  just  before  they  begin  to  lay,  and 
yet  are  full  of  egg;  if  diey  are  old,  their 
combs  and  legs  are  rough. 

All  poultry  should  be  very  carefully  pick- 
ed, every  plug  removed,  and  tlie  hair  nicely 
singed  with  pajier. 

The  cook  should  be  ca)eful  in  drawing 
poultiy  of  all  sorts,  not  to  break  the  gall- 
bag,  for  no  washing  will  take  off  the  bitter 
where  it  has  touched. 

If  for  roasting,  black-legged  fowls  ar« 
the  most  moist.  A  good-sized  fowl  will 
take  from  three-tjiiarters  of  an  hour  to  an 
hour  in  roasting,  a  middling-sized  one  about 
half  an  hour,  and  a  very  small  one,  or  chick- 
en, twenty  minutes. 

Tame  fowls  require  more  roasting,  and 
are  longer  in  heating  through  than  other*. 
All  sorts  should  be  continually  basted,  that 
they  may  be  served  with  a  froth,  and  appear 
of  a  fine  color.  The  fire  must  be  very  <juick 
and  clear  before  any  fowls  are  put  down. 
Serve  with  egg  sauce,  bread  sauce,  or  gar- 
nished with  sausages  or  scalded  parsley. 

A  large  bai-n-door  fowl,  well  hung,  should 
be  stuffed  in  the  crop  with  sausage-meat, 
and  served  with  gravy  in  tlie  dish,  and  with 
bread  sauce.  / 

The  head  should  be  turned  under  tbt 
wing,  like  a  turkey. 


row 


FO  w 


For  boiling,  choose  those  that  are  not 
black -legged ;  pick  them  carefully,  singe, 
wash,  and  tniss  them.  Flour  tliem,  and 
put  tliem  in  boiling  water;  a  good-sized 
one  will  be  done  in  half  an  hour. 

Serve  with  parsley  and  butter;  oyster, 
lemon,  liver,  or  celery  sauce.  If  for  dinner, 
ham,  tongue,  or  bacon,  is  commonly  served 
with  them. 

Fowls  are  ti^ussed  in  the  same  manner  as 
chickens.  (See  Chickens). 

Chickens  or  fowls  should  be  killed  at 
least  one  or  two  days  before  they  are  to  be 
dressed. 

Turkeys  (especially  large  ones)  should 
not  be  dressed  till  they  have  been  killed 
three  or  four  days  at  least,  in  cold  weather 
six  or  eight,  or  they  will  neither  look  white 
nor  eat  tender. 

Turkeys,  and  large  fowls,  should  have 
the  strings  or  sinews  of  die  thighs  drawn 
out. 

Truss  them  with  the  legs  outward,  they 
are  much  easier  carved. 

FOWL  A  LA  HOLANDAISE.  Make 
a  forcemeat  of  grated  bread,  half  its  quantity 
of  minced  suet,  an  onion,  or  a  few  oysters, 
and  some  boiled  parsley,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  grated  lemon-peel,  and  an  egg 
beaten  up  to  bind  it.  Bone  the  breast  of  a 
good-sized  young  fowl,  put  in  the  forcemeat, 
cover  the  fowl  with  a  piece  of  white  paper 
buttered,  and  roast  it  rather  more  tlian  half 
an  hour ;  have  ready  a  thick  batter  made  of 
flour,  milk,  and  eggs,  take  off  the  paper,  and 
pour  some  of  the  batter  over  the  fowl;  as 
soon  as  it  becomes  dry  add  moj-e,  and  do 
this  till  it  is  all  crusted  over,  and  of  a  nice 
brown  color ;  serve  it  with  melted  butter  and 
lemon  pickle,  or  a  thickened  brown  gi'avy. 

FOWL  BOILED  WITH  RICE.  Stew 
a  fowl  in  some  well-skimmed  clear  mutton 
broth,  and  seasoned  with  onion,  mace,  pep- 
per, and  salt.  About  half  an  hour  before  it 
is  ready,  put  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  rice 
well  washed  and  soaked.  Simmer  till  ten- 
der; then  strain  it  from  the  broth,  and  put 
the  rice  on  a  sieve  before  the  fu'e.  Keep  the 
fowl  hot,  lay  it  in  the  middle  of  a  dish,  and 
the  rice  round  it  without  the  broth.  The 
less  liquor  the  fowl  is  done  witli,  the  better. 
Serve  with  gravy,  or  parsley  and  butter  for 
sauce. 

FOWL  BROILED.  Split  them  down 
tlie  back,  well  salt  and  pepper  them ;  dien 
broil  them.     Serve  with  mushroom  sauce. 

FOWL  CAPILOTADE.  Take  the  re- 
mains of  a  ready  dressed  fowl,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan;  then  do  up  some 
parsley,   shallots,  and  four  mushrooms,  all 


shred  small,  in  a  little  butter;  as  soon  as  the 
latter  becomes  liquid,  add  four  ladlefuls  of 
espagnole,  and  two  of  consomme,  reduce, 
and  skim  it ;  pour  it  on  your  fowl,  set  it  on 
the  fire  to  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
before  you  send  it  to  table.  , 

FOWL  CURRY.     See  Curry. 

FOWLS    DRESSED    TO    DRESS 

AGAIN.  Cut  them  in  quarters,  beat  up  an 
eg^  or  two  (according  to  the  quantity  yon 
dress)  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  pep- 
per and  salt,  some  parsley  minced  fine,  and 
a  kw  crumbs  of  bread;  mix  diese  well  to- 
gether, and  cover  the  fowl,  &c.  with  this 
batter;  broil  them,  or  put  them  in  a  Dutch 
oven,  or  have  ready  some  dripping  hot  in  a 
pan,  in  which  fiy  them  a  light  brown  color; 
thicken  a  little  gravy  with  some  flour,  put 
a  large  spoonful  of  catchup  to  it,  lay  the 
ft-y  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  round  it. 
You  may  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
toasted  bread. 

ICF'  Turkey,  Goose,  Duck,  Rabbit, 
Pigeon,  are  all  dressed  same  way. 

FOWL,  GAINfE,  OR  RABBIT  hash- 
ED.  Cut  them  into  joints,  put  the  trim- 
mings into  a  stewpan  with  a  quart  of 
the  broth  they  were  boiled  in,  and  a  large 
onion  cut  in  four;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour; 
strain  it  through  a  sieve;  then  put  two  table- 
sjKionfuls  of  flour  in  a  basin,  and  mix  it 
well  by  degrees  with  the  hot  broth;  set  it 
on  the  fire  to  boil  up,  then  strain  it  through  a 
fine  sieve:  wash  out  the  stewpan,  lay  the  poul- 
tiy  in  it,  and  poui'  the  gravy  on  it  (through 
a  sieve);  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  very  gently  (it  must  not  Iwil)  for 
fifteen  minutes;  five  minutes  before  you 
serve  it  up,  cut  the  stuffing  in  slices,  and 
put  it  in  to  warm,  then  take  it  out,  and  lay 
it  round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  put  the 
poultry  in  the  middle;  carefully  skim  the 
fat  off  the  gravy,  then  shake  it  roinid  well 
in  the  stewpan,  and  pour  it  to  the  hash. 
N.  B. — You  may  garnish  the  dish  with  bread 
sippets  lightly  toasted. 

FOWL  HASHED.  Cut  a  cold  roasted 
fowl  into  pieces  as  for  a  fricassee,  put  the 
trimmings  into  a  saucepan  with  two  or  three 
shallots,  a  little  lemon-peel,  a  blade  of  mace, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  and  a  pint 
of  stock ;  simmer  it  for  half  an  hour,  strain 
it,  put  a  bit  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and 
whea  melted,  dredge  in  as  much  flour  as  will 
di-y  it  up,  stirring  it  all  the  time;  dien  add 
the  gravy,  let  it  boil  a  minute,  and  put  in  the 
fowl,  also  a  little  popper,  salt,  and  a  dust  of 
sugar.  Before  serving,  squeeze  in  a  little 
lemon-juice. 


FOW 


79 


PRA 


FOWL     MINCED     WITH     VEAL. 

Mince  the  white  part  of  a  cold  roasted  or 
boiled  fowl;  put  it,  and  some  thin  slices  of 
veal,  into  a  saucepan,  also  some  white  stock, 
a  squeeze  of  a  lemon,  a  few  dr6ps  of  shallot 
vine^r,  and  a  dust  of  sugar;  simmer  it  for 
a  short  time,  and  serve  it  upon  bread  sippets, 
with  the  slices  of  veal  laid  on  the  mince. 

FOWL  PULLED.  Skin  a  cold  chick- 
en, fowl,  or  turkey;  take  off  the  fillets  from 
the  breasts,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  rest  of  the  white  meat  and  wings, 
side-bones,  and  merry-thought,  with  a  pint 
of  broth,  a  large  blade  of  mace  pounded,  an 
eschalot  minced  fine,  the  juice  of  half  a  lem- 
on, and  a  roll  of  die  peel,  some  salt,  and  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne;  thicken  it  with  flour 
and  butter,  and  let  it  simmer  for  two  or 
three  minutes,  till  the  meat  is  warm.  In  the 
meantime  score  the  eggs  and  rump,  powder 
Uiem  witli  pepper  and  salt,  broil  them  nicely 
brown,  and  lay  them  on,  or  round  your  pulled 
chicken.  Three  table-spoonfuls  of  good 
cream,  or  the  yolks  of  as  many  eggs,  will  be 
a  great  improvement  to  it. 

FOWL  OR  RABBIT.  We  can  only 
recormnend  this  method  of  dressing  when  the 
fire  is  not  good  enough  for  roasting.  Pick 
and  truss  it  the  same  as  for  boiling,  cut  it 
0|ien  down  tlie  back,  wipe  the  inside  clean 
with  a  cloth,  season  it  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  have  a  clear  fire,  and  set  the  grid- 
iron at  a  good  distance  over  it,  lay  the 
chicken  on  with  the  inside  towards  the  fire 
(you  may  egg  it  and  strew  some  grated 
bread  over  it),  and  broil  it  till  it  is  a  fine 
brown:  take  care  the  fleshy  side  is  not  burn- 
ed. Lay  it  on  a  hot  dish;  pickled  mush- 
rooms, or  mushroom  sauce  thrown  over  it, 
or  parsley  and  butter,  or  melted  butter  fla- 
vored with  mushroom  ketchup.  Garnish  it 
widi  slices  of  lemon;  and  the  liver  and  giz- 
zard slit  and  notched,  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  broiled  nicely  brown,  with 
0ome  slices  of  lemon. 

FOWLS  WITH  RICE,  CALLED 
PiLLACE.  Roil  a  pint  of  rice  in  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  it,  with  black  pepper,  a 
few  blades  of  mace,  and  half  a  dozen  cloves, 
tied  up  in  a  bit  of  cloth ;  when  the  rice  is 
tender,  take  out  the  spice;  stir  in  a  piece 
of  butter;  boil  a  fowl  and  a  piece  of  bacon; 
lay  them  in  the  dish,  covei-  them  witli  the 
rice:  lay  round  die  dish,  and  upon  tlie  rice, 
hard  eggs,  cut  in  halves,  quarters,  and 
lengthways,  with  onions,  first  boiled,  and 
then  fried. 

FOWLS  ROASTED.  Well  pepper 
and  salt  the  fowls  before  you  spit  them; 
roast  them  before  a  clear  fii e ;   fioth  them 


up  when  nearly  done,  by  sprinkling  them 
over  witli  flour  and  salt,  and  basting  thera 
with  butter.  When  done,  be  careful  in  tak- 
ing out  the  skewers.  Serve  them  with  very 
good  clear  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  bread  ot 
egg  sauce  in  a  boat. 

FOWL  ROASTED  WITH  CHEST- 

NUTS.  Roast  some  chestnuts  vei-y  care- 
fully, so  that  they  may  not  be  burnt,  then 
take  off  the  skins,  and  peel  them.  Take 
about  a  dozen  of  them,  cut  them  small,  and 
bruise  them  in  a  mortar.  Parboil  die  liver 
of  a  fowl ;  bruise  it,  and  cut  about  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  ham  or  bacon,  and  pound  it. 
Then  mix  them  all  together,  witli  a  good 
quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  sweet  herbs, 
some  mace,  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg.  When 
these  are  are  all  well  mixed  together,  put  it 
into  your  fowl,  and  roast  it.  The  best  wav 
of  doing  this  is  to  tie  the  neck,  and  hang  it 
up  by  the  legs  to  roast,  with  a  string,  and 
then  baste  it  with  butter.  For  sauce,  take 
the  rest  of  the  chestnuts,  peel  and  skin  them, 
put  them  into  some  good  gi"avy,  v\'ith  a  little 
white  wine;  and  thicken  it  wiUi  a  piece  of 
butter  rolled  in  flour.  Then  place  your  fowl 
in  the  dish;  pour  in  the  sauce;  garnish  with 
lemon,  and  serve. 

FOWL  WITH  ITS   OWN  GRAVY. 

Truss  a  fowl  the  same  as  for  boiling,  lard  it 
quite  through  with  bacon,  ham,  and  pars- 
ley ;  put  it  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter,  two 
or  three  slices  of  peeled  lemon,  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs,  three  cloves,  sliced  onions, 
carrots,  pepper,  salt,  a  little  stock,  and  a 
glass  of  white  wine ;  stew  them  gently  till 
they  are  done ;  skim  and  strain  tiie  sauce^ 
and  serve  it  with  the  fowl. 

FOWL,  WILD.  The  flavor  of  wild 
fowl  is  preserved  better  by  not  stuffing  them ; 
put  into  each,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  bit  of  but- 
ter. Wild  fowl  do  not  require  so  much 
dressing  as  tame ;  they  should  be  done  of  a 
fine  color,  and  nicely  frodied.  A  rich  brown 
gravy  should  be  served  in  the  dish,  and  when 
the  breast  is  cut  into  slices,  liefore  it  is  taken 
from  the  bone,  it  will  be  much  improved  by 
a  squeeze  of  lemon,  some  salt  and  pepper. 
If  you  wish  to  take  oft"  the  fishy  smell  which 
these  birds  frequently  have,  put  an  onion, 
salt,  and  hot  water  into  the  dripping  pan, 
and  for  the  first  ten  minutes  baste  diem  with 
this ;  then  remove  the  pan,  and  keep  con- 
stantly basting  widi  batter. 

FRAISE.     See  Calfs  Chitterlings. 

FRANGIPANE.  Take  a  saucepan,  and 
put  into  if  five  spoonfuls  of  flour,  five  eggs,  a 
pint  of  milk,  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  little 
salt;  sot  it   on  tlie  fire,  stirring  constantly 


FRE 


80 


FRl 


until  it  has  boiled  ten  minutes,  taking  great 
care  that  it  does  not  burn ;  then  pour  it  into 
a  basin,  and  let  it  cool.  Take  a  few  al- 
monds, (to  eveiy  six  sweet  put  one  bitter), 
bruise  them,  and  some  macaroons,  and  wlien 
reduced  to  powder,  mix  them  with  a  little 
cris|)ed  orange-flour  (also  in  powder),  and  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  powder-sugar  to  sweeten 
it:  add  tliese  to  the  above  preparation,  and 
stir  them  in  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  If 
your  frungipane  Ije  too  thick,  add  anotljer 
egg  or  two,  and  then  make  whatever  use  of 
it  you  may  desire.  You  may,  if  you  think 
proper,  sul>stitute  pistachios  for  die  sweet 
almonds,  in  which  case  a  little  spinach  es- 
sence must  be  added  to  color  it,  die  maca- 
roons and  orange-flowers  omitted,  and  tliree 
bitter  almonds  only  used. 

FRENCH  BEANS.  Cut  off  the  stalk 
end  first,  and  then  turn  to  the  point  and 
sti-ip  off  the  strings.  If  not  quite  fresh,  have 
a  bowl  of  spring-water,  with  a  little  salt 
dissolved  in  it,  standing  before  yon,  and  as 
the  beans  are  cleaned  and  stringed,  tlirow 
them  in.  When  all  are  done,  put  them  on 
die  fire  in  boiling  water,  with  some  salt  in 
it;  after  they  have  boiled  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  take  one  out  and  taste  it;  as  soon 
as  they  are  tender  take  them  up;  throw 
tliem  into  a  colander  oi*  sieve  to  drain.  To 
send  up  the  beans  whole  is  much  the  best 
meUiod  when  diey  are  thus  young,  and  their 
delicate  flavor  and  color  are  much  better 
pj-eserved.  When  a  little  more  grown,  they 
must  be  cut  across  in  two  after  stringing; 
and  for  common  tables  they  are  split,  and 
divided  across ;  cut  them  all  the  same  length ; 
but  those  who  ai'e  nice  never  have  them  at 
such  a  growth  as  to  recjuire  splitting.  When 
they  are  vei'y  large  they  look  pretty  cut  into 
lozenges. 

FRENCH  BEANS,  NASTURTIUMS, 

&c.  When  young,  and  most  otlier  small 
green  vegetables,  may  be  pickled  the  same 
way  as  gherkins. 

FRENCH  BEANS  FOR  WINTER 

USE.  Gather  them  when  young,  and  on  a 
dry  day,  put  a  layer  of  salt  into  a  jar,  and 
dien  one  of  about  two  inches  thick  of  beans ; 
do  this  till  the  jar  be  nearly  full ;  place  a 
small  plate  upon  the  top  of  them,  and  tie  a 
bladder  closely  over  the  jar;  keep  it  in  a 
cool  dry  place.  When  to  be  used,  soak 
them  a  night  in  cold  water,  and  change  it 
on  them  repeatedly  in  the  course  of  the  day 
they  are  to  be  dressed.  Cut  them,  and  put 
them  on  in  boiling  water. 

FRENCH  BEANS  TO  DRESS 
DRIED.  Boil  for  more  dian  two  hours,  in 
two  quarts  of  water,  a  pound  of  die  seeds  or 


beans  of  scarlet  runners;  fill  a  pint  basin 
with  onions  peeled  or  sliced,  brown  them  in 
a  saucepan,  vvidi  rather  more  than  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  stir  them  con- 
stantly; strain  the  water  from  the  beans, 
and  mix  them  wiUi  the  onions;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  some  salt,  and  a  little 
gravy.  Let  diem  stew  for  ten  minutes,  and 
stir  in  tiie  Ix^aten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegai'.     Serve  them  hot. 

FRENCH  SUPPER  DISH.  Pare  off 
the  crust,  and  cut  one  or  two  slices  of  bread 
into  bits  of  two  or  three  inches  square ;  fry 
them  in  butter;  put  them  upon  a  hot  dish, 
and  lay  upon  each  bit  some  warmed  preserve, 
or  stew  for  a  few  minutes,  in  sweet  wine 
and  a  little  sugar,  some  stoned  bloom  raisins, 
and  put  them  upon  and  round  the  toast. 
The  preserves  may  be  heated  by  placing  tlie 
jars  in  hot  water  by  the  side  of  die  fire. 

FRIARS'  CHICKEN.  Put  four  pounds 
of  a  knuckle  of  veal  into  four  quarts  of  wa- 
ter ;  boil  it  gently  for  two  hours ;  strain  it 
off;  cut  three  chickens,  or  two  young  fowls 
into  joints ;  skin  them,  and  when  the  broth 
boils  put  them  in  :  season  with  white  pepper 
and  salt;  let  them  boil  a  short  time,  and 
add  a  handful  of  parsley  chopped  small; 
when  the  chickens  are  boiled  tender,  have 
ready  six  or  seven  well-beaten  eggs;  stir 
them  (jnickly  into  the  brodi  one  way,  imme- 
diately Ixjfore  taking  it  off  die  fire.  This 
broth  may  be  made  entirely  of  veal  instead 
of  chickens. 

FRICANDELLANS.  Mince  about  two 
pounds  of  tender  lean  beef,  and  diree-quar- 
ters  of  a  pound  of  fresh  suet,  then  pound  it 
till  it  \)e  as  smooth  as  a  paste,  and  carefully 
pick  out  all  the  threads  and  sinews ;  add  four 
well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  rich  cream, 
and  as  much  grated  and  sifted  bread  as  will 
make  it  sulHciently  consistent  to  form  into 
rolls  resembling  corks,  and  season  it  with 
salt,  and  pepper.  Boil  the  corks  in  some 
good  stock,  or  in  boiling  water. 

FRICASSEE  BROWN.  Take  two  or 
three  young  rabbits,  cut  them  in  pieces,  and 
slew  them  in  gravy  made  of  beef,  some  whole 
pepper,  two  shallots,  one  or  two  anchovies, 
a  bit  of  horse-radish,  and  a  little  sweet  mar- 
joram powdered  small.  Stew  the  rabbits 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  take  them 
out  of  the  gravy,  strain  the  liquor,  fry  your 
rabbits  in  lard  or  butter;  add  a  glass  of 
claret;  you  may  fry  some  forcemeat  balls, 
made  with  the  livers  of  the  rabbits  parboiled, 
and  a  little  parsley  shred  small,  some  nutmeg 
giated,  pepper,  salt,  a  few  bread  ciumbs, 
and  two  buttered  eggs;  mix  these  all  to 
gether,  make  them  up  into  balls,  dip  them 


FRI 


81 


FRI 


In  the  yolk  of  egg,  roll  them  in  flour, 
then  fiy  tlietn,  and  garnish  your  dish  with 
them,  with  fried  parsley,  and  sliced  lemon. 

FRICASSEE  WHITE.  Cut  a  couple 
of  rabbits  into  pieces,  and  let  them  soak  in 
warm  water  to  cleanse  them  from  the  blood ; 
then  lay  them  in  a  cloth  to  dry;  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  milk  and  water,  and  let 
them  stew  till  they  are  tender,  and  then  take 
a  clean  pan,  and  put  into  it  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter; 
Btir  them  well  together  till  the  butter  is  melt- 
ed ;  be  careful  to  keep  it  constantly  stirring, 
or  it  will  be  greasy ;  put  in  the  rabbits,  take 
a  little  dried  mace,  a  little  pounded  nutmeg, 
and  a  few  mushrooms ;  shake  tliem  together 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  put  it  to  the 
mbbits.  You  may  add  white  wine  if  you 
choose. 

FRIED  TOASTS.  Cut  the  crumb  of 
a  twopenny  loaf  into  round  or  oblong  pieces, 
nearly  an  inch  tliick,  and  soak  them  for  four 
or  five  hours  in  a  pint  of  cream,  mixed  with 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  white 
wine,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  sweetened 
witli  pounded  loaf  sugar.  Fry  them  in  but- 
ter, till  of  a  light  brown  color,  and  serve 
with  wine  and  sugar  sauce. 

FRITTERS.  (1)  Make  them  of  any  of 
the  batters  directed  for  pancakes,  by  dropping 
a  small  quantity  into  the  pan,  or  make  the 
plainer  sort,  and  put  pared  apples  sliced  and 
cored  in  the  batter,  and  fiy  some  of  it  with 
each  slice.  Currants  or  sliced  lemon,  as 
thin  as  possible,  are  very  nice. 

FRITTERS.  (2)  Fritters  should  be  sent 
to  table  served  upon  a  folded  napkin  in  the 
dish.  Any  sort  of  sweetmeat,  or  ripe  fruit, 
may  be  made  into  fritters. 

FRITTERS,  ENGLISH-AND- 
FRENCH.  Take  a  marrow  pudding,  and 
when  nearly  cold,  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  and 
then  cut  them  again  into  pieces  two  inches 
long,  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  dip 
them  into  batter,  and  fry  them  in  the  usual 
manner ;  when  drained,  glaze  tliem  with  fine 
sugar,  and  serve  them  very  hot.  The  batter 
for  the  above  fritters  is  made  as  follows : — 
Put  a  glass  and  a  half  of  water,  a  grain  of 
salt,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a 
saucepan ;  when  it  boils  stir  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  flour  to  make  it  a  ratlier  firm 
batter,  keep  it  stirring  three  minutes,  then 
pour  it  into  another  vessel. 

FRITTERS  A  LA  DAUPHINE. 
Take  a  pound  of  bHoche  paste,  and  roll  it 
out  as  thin  as  possible,  to  the  form  of  a  long 
square ;  on  part  of  this  lay  small  quantities 


of  apricot  marmalade  at  internals,  slightly 
wet  the  paste  round  each  piece  of  preserve, 
and  lay  over  the  plain  part  of  the  paste  so  as 
to  cover  the  other  completely,  press  it  down 
lightly  that  the  marmalade  may  not  escape 
in  tlie  cooking,  and  cut  out  your  fi-itters 
with  a  circular  paste-cutter  of  two  inches  in 
diameter;  flour  them  a  little,  and  then  lay 
them  in  rather  a  hot  friture,  when  the  paste 
will  swell  them  into  little  balls ;  as  soon  as 
they  are  of  a  proper  color  take  them  out, 
drain  them  on  a  napkin,  sprinkle  them  with 
fine  sugai-,  and  serve  them. 

FRITTERS  A  LA  COTE.  Soak  in 
brandy  some  leaves  and  the  young  and  ten- 
der shoots  of  the  vine,  dip  them  in  a  batter 
made  of  milk,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  flour,  fiy 
them  in  boiling  oil,  sprinkle  them  with  su- 
gar. Elder  flowers  are  made  into  fi-itters  in 
the  same  manner. 

FRITTERS  AU  BLANC.      Mix  to^ 

gether  a  handful  of  rice-flour  and  some  milk,, 
set  them  on  the  fire,  stirring  cxinstantly,  add 
a  little  ci'eam,  sugar,  lemon-peel,  and  orange- 
flowers;  when  it  has  become  of  a  proper 
consistence,  take  it  from  the  fire ;  as  soon 
as  it  is  cold,  roll  it  into  balls  about  the  size 
of  a  nut,  dip  them  in  batter  and  fi-y  diem. 

FRITTERS  BLONDIN.  Put  some 
butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  is  melt- 
ed add  to  it  a  glass  of  milk,  and  a  pinch  of 
salt,  keep  it  on  the  fire  till  it  boils ;  then 
mix  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour  to  make 
it  into  a  consistent  paste,  which  will  not 
stick  to  the  fingers;  spread  it  on  a  table, 
roll  it  out  to  tlie  thickness  you  may  require, 
cut  it  in  round,  oval,  or  any  odier  formed 
pieces  you  may  diink  proper,  and  fiy  them  of 
a  nice  color,  in  the  best  oil;  sprirJtle  sugar 
over,  and  serve  tiiem. 

FRITTERS,  FRENCH,  OF  BRAN- 
DY FRUITS.  Take  a  dozen  apricots 
(or  other  fruits)  presei-ved  in  brandy,  drain, 
and  cut  them  in  half:  then  wrap  them  in  wa- 
fers cut  round  and  previously  moistened,  dip 
them  in  the  same  kind  of  batter  as  that  used 
for  fritters  EngHsh-and- French,  and  fiy 
them ;  sprinkle  tliem  with  sugar,  and  sei-ve. 

FRITTERS  EN  SURPRISE.  Take 
eight  middling-sized  apples,  pare,  and  leave 
on  the  stalks ;  cut  oft'  about  a  fourtli  part  of 
the  stalk  end  of  each  apple,  and  scoop  out 
the  inside  of  each  piece,  so  as  to  foi-m  a  sort  of 
cup  with  a  lid ;  put  them  to  soak  for  two  hours 
in  a  glass  of  brandy  with  a  little  lemon-peel 
and  cinnamon ;  at  the  end  of  that  time  take 
them  out,  drain,  and  fill  each  apple  with 
apricot  marmalade,  or  frangipaue ;  mix  up 
a  little  floiu-  and  white  of  egg  to  cement  thft 


FRO 


82 


FRU 


tops  of  the  apples  to  the  other  parts;  dip 
them  in  batter  and  (vy  tliem.  When  they 
are  of  a  proper  color,  glaze  and  serve  them. 

FRITTERS  MIGNON.  Put  two  good 
spoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  stewpan,  and  mix 
it  with  the  whites  and  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
little  salt,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  some  lemon- 
jxjel  grated,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  milk,  and 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  cream ;  stir  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  and,  when  done  and  well  thicken- 
ed, spread  tlie  cream  upon  a  floured  dish, 
shalve  flour  over  it,  and,  when  cold,  cut  it 
into  bits  with  a  paste-cutter,  dip  each  bit 
into  a  paste  made  vvitli  two  spoonfuls  of 
flour,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  and  a  little  salt, 
mixed  with  two  eggs ;  fry  the  fritters,  and 
serve,  glazed  with  sugar  and  a  salamander. 

FRITTERS,  ROYAL.  Put  a  quart  of 
new  milk  into  a  saucepan,  and  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  boil,  pour  in  a  pint  of  v  liite  wine ; 
then  take  it  off',  and  let  it  stand  five  or  six 
minutes,  skim  off  the  curd,  and  put  it  into  a 
basin;  beat  it  up  well  with  six  eggs,  and 
season  it  with  nutmeg;  then  Ixjat  it  with  a 
whisk,  and  add  flour  sufficient  to  give  it  the 
proper  consistence  of  batter.  Put  in  some 
sugar  and  fry  them  quick. 

FRITTERS,  SOUFFLES.  Make 
some  flour  and  teer  into  a  batte-i"  that  will 
flow  a  little;  lake  a  little  of  it  out  with  a 
spoon,  throw  it  into  a  frying-pan  w  ith  boil- 
ing oil;  the  moment  it  rises,  take  it  out, 
and  proceed  in  tlie  same  way  till  all  the  bat- 
ter is  used;  then  sprinkle  them  with  salt, 
and  serve. 

FROMAGE  CUIT.  Cut  half  a  pound 
of  Cheshire  cheese  into  thin  bits,  and  pound 
it  in  a  mortar;  add  by  degrees  tlie  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  two,  and  the  white  of  one 
egg,  and  half  a  pint  of  cream ;  mix  it  well 
together  and  bake  it  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

FROST  OR  ICING  FOR  CAKES. 
Beat  till  very  light  the  whites  of  four  eggs, 
and  add  gradually  three-quarters  of  a  jjound 
of  double-refined  sugar,  pounded  and  sifted 
through  a  lawn  sieve;  mix  in  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon;  teat  it  till  vei-y  light  and 
white;  place  the  cake  before  the  fire,  pour 
over  it  the  icing,  and  smooth  over  the  top 
and  sides  with  tlie  back  of  a  spoon. 

FROTH  TO  PUT  ON  Cream,  Cus- 
tard, OR  Trifle.  Sweeten  half  a  pound 
of  the  pulp  of  damsons,  or  any  other  sort  of 
Bcalded  fi-uit;  put  to  it  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  beaten,  and  beat  die  pulp  with  them 
till  it  will  stand  as  high  as  you  wish,  and 
being  put  on  the  cream,  &c,  will)  a  spoon, 


it  will  take  any  form  j  it  should  be  rough, 
to  imitate  a  rock. 

FRUIT,  CANDIED.  (1)  It  must  first  be 
preserved,  tlien  dipped  in  warm  water,  dried 
with  a  cloth,  and  strewed  all  over  with  sift- 
ed sugar,  and  dried  in  a  stove  or  oven,  tura- 
ing  as  occasion  requires. 

FRUIT,  CANDIED.  (2)  When  the 
fruit  is  preserved,  dry  it  in  a  stove  till  the 
sirup  is  quite  out,  dip  it  into  sirup  boiled  to 
candy  height,  and  diy  it  again.  All  di'ied 
and  candied  fruit  must  lie  kept  in  a  very 
di"y  place. 

FRUIT  IN  JELLY.  Have  in  readiness 
a  plain  mould,  eitlier  long  or  round,  about 
three  inches  deep;  then  have  ready  some 
mould  jelly,  and  spread  it  at  the  bottom 
of  the  mould,  about  a  (juarter  of  an  inch 
thick ;  let  it  be  cold ;  then  put  in  ripe  peach- 
es, grapes,  or  any  sort  of  ripe  fruit  you 
please,  preserved  fruit,  or  China  oranges 
cut  into  quaiters,  or  whatever  sha|)e  you 
choose ;  put  in  a  little  warm  jelly,  and  let  it 
stand  till  it  is  cold,  to  fasten  the  fruit  in  its 
place,  otherwise  it  will  rise  up;  then  fill  the 
mould  up  with  warm  jelly,  let  it  stand  till  it 
is  quite  cold,  then  turn  it  into  a  dish,  and 
garnish  it  according  to  your  own  taste. 

FRUIT,  PRESERVED,  REMARKS 

ON  USING.  Preserved  fruits  should  not  be 
baked  long ;  those  that  have  been  preserved 
witli  their  full  proportion  of  sugar,  require 
no  baking;  the  ciiist  should  be  baked  in  a 
tin  shape,  and  die  fruit  be  afterwards  added ; 
or  it  may  be  put  into  a  small  dish  or  tart- 
pans,  and  the  covers  be  baked  on  a  tin  cut 
out  according  to  your  taste. 

FRUIT,  TO  PREPARE   FOR    BrANDY. 

Take  the  proposed  quantity  of  fruit,  gather- 
ed before  they  are  perfectly  ripe ;  dry  them 
carefully,  prick  and  put  them  into  cold  water ; 
when  all  in,  set  the  vessel  over  a  moderate 
fire,  keeping  the  water,  however,  constantly 
nearly  boiling,  until  the  fruit  will  give  to  the 
touch;  then  throw  them,  with  great  cai*e, 
into  cold  water  again ;  drain  away  this  wa- 
ter, and  add  fiesh ;  cluuige  the  water  twice 
more  within  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  after 
which,  drain  them  for  the  last  time,  and  put 
them  in  bottles ;  if  any  of  die  fruit  is  the 
least  broken  or  bniised,  it  must  be  put  iiside, 
as  it  would  spoil  tlie  rest.  In  tlie  mean- 
while, take  a  proper  quantity  of  sugar  (as  a 
pound  and  a  half  for  twenty-five  peaches) ; 
clarify  and  boil  it  to  la  nappe;  measure, 
and  put  double  its  quantity  of  good  brandy; 
mix  and  pour  them  into  a  glazed  pan;  let 
them  stand  awhile,  and  then  poiu-  tlie  raix- 
tui-e  on  the  fniit. 


GAM 


83 


GAM 


FRUIT  TO  PREPARE  FOR  CHIL- 
DREN. Put  ap[)les  sliced,  or  plums,  cur- 
rants, gooseberries,  &c.  into  a  stone  jar,  and 
sprinkle  as  much  Lisbon  sugar  as  necessary 
among  them ;  place  the  jar  on  a  hot  hearth, 
or  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  and  let  it  remain 
till  the  fruit  is  perfectly  done.  Slices  of 
bread  or  rice  may  be  stewed  with  the  fruit, 
or  the  fruit  may  be  eaten  with  slices  of  dry 
bread,  or  with  rice,  plain  boiled. 


G. 


GAME.  In  choosing  venison,  the  fat  of 
that  which  is  good  is  thick,  clear,  and  bright ; 
the  clift  part  smooth  and  close.  When  the 
venison  is  perfectly  fresh,  it  is  hung  in  a  cool 
place,  and  carefully  wif)ed  dry  every  day. 
When  extreme  tenderness  is  required  from 
long  keeping,  but  widiout  its  having  a  high 
flavor,  it  is  well  rubbed  over  with  powdered 
charcoal. 

The  haunch  is  the  prime  joint,  and  when 
it  is  required  to  be  roasted,  it  is  first  well 
washed  in  lukewarm  milk-and-water,  and 
then  made  quite  dry  before  it  is  spitted.  It 
is  then  covered  with  a  sheet  of  well-buttered 
white  paper,  over  which  is  laid  a  coarse 
paste  of  llour-and-water,  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick;  this  is  again  covered  with 
buttered  white  papei",  and  tied  on  with  pack- 
thread. A  substantial  fire  being  made,  tlie 
haunch  is  put  down,  and  constantly  basted 
with  fresh  beef  dripping,  till  nearly  done, 
when  the  paste  is  taken  off,  the  meat  well 
basted  with  butter,  and  lightly  dredged  with 
flour,  till  it  froths  and  becomes  of  a  fine  light 
brown  color.  It  is  ser^-ed  with  its  own  gra- 
vy in  the  dish,  if  there  be  enough  of  it ;  also 
a  sauce  tureen  of  good  brown  gravy,  and 
one  of  currant  jelly  sauce  beat  up,  and  melt- 
ed with  a  little  Port  wine  and  sugar. 

A  large  haunch  takes  about  four  hours  to 
roast. 

A  neck  and  shoulder,  when  roasted,  is 
managed  in  die  same  way  as  the  haunch, 
omitting  the  paste;  but  it  is  more  frequently 
used  for  soups,  pasties,  and  collops. 

Hare. — When  fresh,  the  body  is  stiff; 
and  if  young,  the  claws  are  smooth  and 
sharp,  the  ears  tender  and  easily  torn. 
Hares  are  kept  from  a  week  to  a  fortnight 
for  roasting ;  but  for  soup,  they  cannot  have 
been  too  recently  killed. 

Rabbits  are  chosen  by  the  same  rules  as 
hares. 

Wild  fowl,  in  general,  is  chosen  by  the 
same  niles  as  tame  poultry.  The  birds 
should  be  plump  and  fat,  and  hard  in  the 
vent.  If  the  skin  comes  off  when  rubl)ed 
hard  with  the  finger,  they  are  stale.  Old 
birds  improve  by   keeping  for  sometime; 


young  birds  are  best  if  dressed  soon;  and 
small  birds,  of  all  descriptions,  should  be 
immediately  di-es.'sed.  In  warm  weather,  a 
stopper  of  charcoal  should  be  put  into  the 
vent  of  all  game,  and  a  string  tied  tightly 
round  the  neck. 

To  roast  pheasants  and  partridges,  they 
are  picked,  cleaned,  and  nicely  singed;  a 
slit  is  made  in  the  back  part  of  the  neck,  and 
the  craw  taken  out,  leaving  on  the  head,  the 
feet  twisted  closely  to  the  lx)dy,  the  claws 
cut  off,  and  the  head  turned  under  the  wing. 
Both  sorts  are  roasted  by  the  directions  for 
roasting  a  turkey  or  a  fowl.  A  pheasant  is 
served  with  gravy  in  the  dish ;  partridges 
with  a  gravy,  or  laid  upon  buttered  toast, 
and  melted  butter  poured  round  them.  Bread 
sauce  is  served  with  both.  A  pheasant  will 
require  nearly  an  hour  to  roast ;  partridges 
half  an  hour.  Guinea  and  pea-fowl  are 
roasted  in  the  same  way  as  pheasants. 

To  roast  black-cock,  follow  the  directions 
for  roasting  pheasants  and  partridges;  it 
will  require  an  hour,  and  is  served  with  gra- 
vy in  the  dish,  and  bread  sauce  in  a  sauce 
tureen. 

Moorfowl  are  roasted  in  the  same  manner, 
and  require  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  They 
may  be  sei"ved  upon  buttered  toast,  or  with 
gravy  in  the  dish,  and  bread  sauce  in  a  sauce 
tureen. 

To  restore  tainted  game  or  poultry,  pick 
it  carefully,  clean,  and  wash  it,  then  put  into 
each  bird  a  little  newly-made  pounded  char- 
coal, tied  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  Before  serving, 
take  out  the  bag,  which  will  have  a  most 
offensive  smell,  while  the  bird  will  be  left 
perfectly  sweet. 

To  roast  wild  duck. — It  should  be  roasted 
by  a  quick  fire,  well  basted  with  butter,  and 
browned.  It  will  refjuire  nearly  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour,  and  when  to  be  served,  some 
beef  gra\y  is  poured  through  the  duck  into 
the  dish,  and  in  a  pau(!e  tureen  some  hot 
Port  wine  is  served.  The  carver  makes 
four  cuts  along  the  breast,  it  is  then  sprin- 
kled with  salt  and  a  little  Cayenne,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  is  s(iueezed  over  it,  and  the 
Port  wine  is  then  poured  all  over. 

To  roast  a  w  ild  goose,  the  same  directions 
are  followed  as  lor  wild  duck,  allowing 
more  time  to  roast  it,  accoi'ding  to  tlie  size 
of  the  bird. 

Widgeons  and  teal  are  dressed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  wild  duck,  and  are 
roasted  in  ten  minutes,  and  may  be  served 
upon  fried  bread  crumbs. 

Woodcocks  and  snipes  are  roasted  with- 
out being  drawn ;  a  piece  of  toasted  bread 
buttered  is  put  under  each  bird,  to  catch  the 
trail;  they  are  well  basted  with  butter,  and 
served  upon  the  hot  toast  over  which  they 
were  roasted ;  a  rich  brown  gravy,  or  melt- 
ed butter,  is  poured  round  tliem.     Wood- 


GAM 


84 


GAT 


cocks  will  require  half  an  hour,  sni|)es  and 
quails  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  to  roast. 

Ortolans  and  green  plovers  are  not  drawn, 
and  are  roasted  and  served  in  tlie  same 
manner  as  woodcocks. 

To  roast  larks,  wheatears,  and  other 
small  birds,  tliey  are  nicely  picked,  gutted, 
cleaned,  and  trussed;  brushed  over  with 
melted  butter,  and  rolled  in  grated  bead, 
then  spitted  on  a  bird  spit,  which  is  fastened 
upon  a  larger  one.  They  are  basted  with 
witter,  and  sprinkled  with  some  bread 
cnimbs.  They  will  require  nearly  fifteen 
minutes  to  roast,  and  are  served  upon  fiied 
bread  crumbs,  and  brown  gravy  in  a  sauce 
tureen. 

Wild  pigeons  may  be  roasted,  or  made 
into  a  pie. 

Plovers'  eggs  are  boiled  hard,  and  served 
in  a  napkin,  or  with  green  moss  put  round 
each  in  the  dish. 

GAME,  ESSENCE  OF.  Take  four 
rabbits,  four  partridges,  two  pounds  of  veal, 
two  pounds  of  steaks;  put  tliem  into  a 
stevvpan,  with  a  bottle  of  white  wine;  boil 
them  until  the  whole  is  entirely  reduced  to 
a  jelly ;  then  add  to  it  broth,  and  consomme, 
(e<^ual  quantities  of  each),  eight  carrots,  ten 
onions,  three  cloves,  a  little  tliyme  and  ba- 
sil ;  let  the  whole  boil  very  gently,  until  the 
meat  is  quite  done ;  then  strain  it  through  a 
napkin.  No  salt  need  be  put  into  it,  as  the 
brotli  and  consomme  are  sufficiently  seaaon- 
ed  to  flavor  the  essence  of  game. 

GAME  FRITTERS.  Take  any  of 
tliose  parts  of  cold  roasted  game,  which  can 
be  cut  into  thin  slices,  dip  them  into  gofxl 
batter,  and  fry  them  in  olive' oil,  or  lard. 
Sprinkle  the  fritters  when  done,  witli  salt 
and  spices,  pounded  very  fine. 

GAME  HASHED.     See  Fowl. 

GARLIC  BUTTER  SAUCE.  Pound 
half  a  dozen  cloves  of  garlic;  rub  them 
through  a  silk  sieve,  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
put  this  into  a  mortar  with  some  butter,  and 
beat  it  until  thoroughly  incorporated;  then 
put  this  butter  into  any  sauce  you  please. 

GARLIC,  ESSENCE  OF.  Take  an 
earthen  skillet,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  put 
into  it  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  half  a  glass  of 
vinegar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  six  cloves 
of  garlic,  the  same  number  of  cloves,  the 
quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  and  two  bay -leaves: 
when  near  lx)iling,  reduce  the  fire,  and  let  it 
stand  on  hot  ashes  for  seven  or  eight  hours ; 
strain  it  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  then 
filter  it.  Keep  it  in  very  closely  corked 
bottles.  A  veiy  small  quantity  of  this  es- 
sence is  retjuisite  to  impart  its  flavor  to  a  dish. 


GARLIC  GRAVY.  Slice  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  veal,  or  Ijeef ;  season  it  with  pep- 
per and  salt;  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with 
two  carrots  split,  and  four  cloves  of  garlic 
sliced,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sliced  ham, 
and  a  large  spoonful  of  water ;  put  the  stew- 
pan  over  a  gentle  fire,  and  watch  when  the 
meat  begins  to  stick  to  the  pan ;  when  it 
does,  turn  it,  and  let  it  lie  very  well  browned, 
(but  take  care  that  it  is  not  in  the  least 
burnt) ;  then  dredge  it  with  flour,  and  pour 
in  a  quart  of  broth,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
a  couple  of  cloves  bruised,  and  slice  in  a 
lemon ;  set  it  on  the  fire  again,  then  let  it 
simmer  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half  longer; 
dien  skim  oft"  die  fat,  and  strain  oflfthe  gra- 
vy, by  pouring  it  through  a  napkin,  strain- 
ing and  pressing  it  very  hard. 

GATEAU  DE  COMPIEGNE.    Take 

three  pounds  of  flour,  two  pounds  of  butter, 
an  ounce  and  four  drachms  of  yeast,  an 
ounce  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
a  glass  of  cream,  twelve  yolks  and  twelve 
whole  eggs,  and  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of 
whipped  cream. 

With  tliese  ingredients  proceed  as  follows: 
sift  the  flour,  of  which  ]m{  a  fourth  part  on 
the  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  put  into 
it  a  glass  of  warm  water  and  the  yeast;  mix 
them  togetlier  as  lightly,  and  with  as  much 
despatch  as  possible,  adding  more  warm 
water  if  necessary ;  when  well  worked  up 
for  some  minutes,  gather  it  together,  (it 
ought  to  leave  the  slab  and  die  hand  freely) , 
put  it  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  it,  and  place 
it  in  a  tolerably  warm  situation  to  rise. 
Take  the  rest  of  the  flour,  lay  it  on  tlie  slab 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it,  in  which 
put  the  salt,  sugar,  and  cream ;  stir  tliese 
together  well,  and  then  put  in  the  eggs,  one 
at  a  time,  (break  them  into  a  basin,  in  case 
all  should  not  lie  good)  ;  the  eggs  being  put 
in,  add  by  degrees  the  butter,  stirring  Uiem 
well ;  then  mix  the  flour,  a  little  at  a  time, 
with  the  above,  until  the  whole  is  formed 
into  a  smooth  paste;  more  eggs  must  be 
added  if  it  lie  too  stiff;  work  it  up  a  little, 
and  then  add  the  leaven ;  woik  that  in ;  and 
lastly,  put  in  the  whipped  cieam.  The 
whole  operation  being  tinis  peifurmed,  have 
ready  a  cylindrical  fluted  mould,  (about 
eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  nine  in  height) ; 
butter  it  by  means  of  a  sfionge,  being  care- 
ful that  it  is  done  in  all  parts,  otherwise  the 
gateau  will  adhere  to  it;  place  the  mould 
in  a  moderately  warm  place,  liut  where 
diere  is  a  free  current  of  air.  When  the  ga- 
teau has  risen  so  as  to  fill  the  mould,  and 
the  surface  is  a  little  inflated,  it  should  be 
put  into  die  oven  instantly,  if  not,  it  ialls  and 
becomes  heavy.  The  oven  must  be  of  a 
moderate  heat,,  and  kept  closed  while  the 
gateau  is  baking ;  take  it  out  in  about  an 


GHE 


GIN 


hour,  and  if  it  be  flexible  and  light  colored, 
replace  it  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes;  but 
if,  on  the  contrary,  it  is  red,  and  firm  to  the 
touch,  place  a  tin  plate  on  die  top,  and  put 
it  in  the  oven  till  done ;  remove  the  mould 
with  care,  and  the  gateau  is  finished.  If 
the  mould  does  not  come  away  quite  so  well 
as  it  ought,  strike  it  gently  with  a  spatula. 
When  taken  out,  put  it  in  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  dry. 

This  gateau  is  sometimes  varied  by  the 
addition  of  six  ounces  of  sugared  anise,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  dry  currants. 

GATEAU  DE  POMMES.  Boil  in  a 
pint  of  water  one  pound  and  a  half  of  loaf 
sugar  till  it  become  a  rich  sirup;  weigh 
two  pounds  of  apples  after  they  have  been 
peeled,  cored,  and  cut  small ;  boil  them  in 
the  sirup  with  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  a 
large  lemon  till  they  are  reduced  to  a  pulp ; 
put  it  into  a  mould.  The  following  day 
serve  it,  turned  out  in  a  glass  dish,  with  a 
rich  custard. 

GERMAN  PUFFS.  (1)  Mix veiy  well 
with  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  cream,  two  well-beaten  eggs, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  a  verj- 
little  salt,  and  one  ounce  of  butter  teaten  to 
a  cream ;  bake  it  in  buttered  cups  for  twen- 
ty or  thirty  minutes ;  turn  them  out  upon  a 
dish,  and  serve  them  instantly;  poui'  a  sweet 
sauce  round  them. 

GERMAN  PUFFS.  (2)  Beat  to  a 
cream  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
blanch  and  pound  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds 
with  a  little  rose  water,  beat  five  yolks  and 
three  whites  of  eggs;  mix  all  together  witii 
two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  sweeten 
it  with  pounded  loaf  sugar;  bake  it  in  but- 
tered cups,  and  serve  them  with  a  sweet 
sauce. 

GHERKINS  OR  cucumbers  pick- 
led. Choose  gherkins  veiy  green  and 
straight,  brush,  and  place  a  layer  in  a  pan, 
sprinkle  them  with  fine  salt,  then  anodier  lay- 
er of  gherkins,  which  sprinkle  wiUi  salt  also, 
and  continue  diis  operation  until  you  have 
used  nearly  a  bushel  of  gherkins,  leave  them 
in  the  salt  for  twenty-four  hours,  which  will 
draw  all  the  water  from  them;  at  the  end 
of  that  lime  drain  and  place  them  in  a  jar, 
with  a  handful  of  allspice,  the  same  of  tarra- 
gon, a  little  balm,  ten  shallots,  six  cloves  of 
garlic,  two  or  ihree  long  peppers,  twenty 
cloves,  a  lemon  cut  in  quarters,  and  two 
small  handfuls  of  salt.  Boil  two  gallons  of 
the  best  vinegar,  pour  it  over  the  gherkins, 
and  let  them  stand  till  the  next  day,  when 
boil  the  vinegar  a  second  time,  and  pour  it 
on  agam;  "^  the  following  day  boil  the  vine- 
8 


gar  for  the  third  and  last  time,  pour  it  OYer 
the  gherkins,  and  when  quite  cold,  cover  the 
jar  with  a  wet  parchment. 

GIBLET  PIE.     See  Pies. 

GIBLETS  STEWED.  Clean  two  sets 
of  giblets,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  just 
cover  diem  with  cold  water,  and  set  them  on 
die  fire ;  when  diey  boil,  take  off  the  scum, 
and  put  in  an  onion,  diree  cloves,  or  two  blades 
of  mace,  a  few  berries  of  black  pepper,  the 
same  of  allspice,  and  half  a  tea-spoonfijl  of 
salt ;  cover  die  ste  wpan  close,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  gently  till  the  giblets  are  quite  tender: 
this  will  take  from  one  hour  and  a  half  to 
two  and  a  half,  according  to  the  age  of  the 
giblets ;  the  pinions  will  be  done  first,  and 
must  dien  be  taken  out,  and  put  in  again  to 
warm  when  the  gizzards  are  done:  watch 
them  that  they  do  not  get  too  much  done: 
take  them  out  and  thicken  the  sauce  with 
fiour  and  butter;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour,  or 
till  there  is  just  enough  to  eat  with  die  gib- 
lets, and  dien  strain  it  through  a  tamis  into 
a  clean  stewpan ;  cut  the  giblets  into  mouth- 
f'uls ;  put  them  into  the  sauce  with  the  juice 
of  lialf  a  lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup ;  pour  the  whole  into  a  soup- 
dish,  with  sippets  of  bread  at  die  bottom. 
Ox-tails  prepared  in  the  same  way  are  ex- 
cellent eating. 

GINGERBREAD.  Rub  one  pound  of 
butter  well  into  diree  pounds  of  flour ;  then 
add  one  pound  of  powtler-sugar,  one  pound 
of  treacle,  and  two  ounces  of  ginger  pounded 
and  sifted  very  fine ;  one  nutmeg  grated  very 
fine ;  dien  warm  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  mix  all  togedier ;  you  may  add  carra- 
ways  and  sweetmeats  if  you  choose;  make 
it  into  a  stiff'  paste,  and  bake  it  in  a  slow 
oven.  If  cake  or  biscuits  are  kept  in  paper 
or  a  drawer,  they  will  acquire  a  disagreeable 
taste.  A  pan  and  cover,  or  tureen,  will 
{M-eserve  them  long  and  moist;  or  if  to  be 
crisp,  laying  diem  before  die  fire  will  make 
them  so. 

GINGERBREAD,  AMERICAN.    See 

American. 

GINGERBREAD  WITHOUT  BUT- 
TER. Mix  two  pounds  of  treacle;  of  or- 
ange, lemon,  cition,  and  candied  ginger, 
each  four  ounces,  all  thinly  sliced ;  one  ounce 
of  coriander-seeds,  one  ounce  of  caraways, 
and  one  ounce  of  beaten  ginger,  in  as  much 
paste  as  will  make  a  soft  paste;  lay  it  in 
cakes  or  tin  plates,  and  bake  it  in  a  quick 
oven.  Keep  it  dry  in  a  coveied  earthen 
vessel,  and  it  will  be  good  for  some  months,  - 

GINGERBREAD    INDIAN.      Take 


GIN 


86 


GIN 


twelve  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  one  pound  of 
dried  flour,  two  ounces  of  pounded  ginger, 
and  of  cloves  and  cinnamon  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  each.  Mix  tne  ginger  and  tlie  spice 
with  the  flour ;  put  the  sugar  and  a  small 
tea-cupful  of  water  into  a  saucepan ;  when 
it  is  dissolved,  add  the  butter,  and  as  soon 
as  it  is  melted,  mix  it  witli  the  flour  and 
other  tilings;  work  it  up,  and  form  the 
paste  into  cakes  or  nuts,  and  bake  them 
upon  tins. 

GINGERBREAD,  LAFAYETTE. 
Five  eggs ;  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar ;  half 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  a  pint  of  sugai-house 
molasses ;  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour ;  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  ginger;  two  large  sticks  of 
cinnamon  ;  three  dozen  grains  of  allspice ; 
three  dozen  of  cloves ;  the  juice  and  grated 
peel  of  two  lemons.  Stir  the  butter  and  su- 
gar to  a  cream ;  beat  the  eggs  very  well ; 
pour  the  molasses  at  once,  into  the  butter 
and  sugai".  Add  the  ginger  and  other  spice, 
jmd  stir  all  well  together.  Put  in  the  egg 
and  flour  alternately,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Stir  the  whole  very  hard,  and  put  in  llie 
lemon  at  the  last.  When  the  whole  is  mix- 
ed, stir  it  till  very  light.  Butter  an  eardien 
pan,  or  a  thick  tin  or  iron  one,  and  put  the 
gingerbread  in  it.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven,  an  hour  or  more,  according  to  its 
thickness.  Take  care  that  it  do  not  burn. 
Or  you  may  bake  it  in  small  cakes,  or  lit- 
tle tins.  Its  lightness  will  be  much  improv- 
ed by  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  pearlash  dis- 
solved in  a  tea-spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  stir- 
red lightly  in  at  the  last.  Too  much  pearl- 
ash  will  give  it  an  unpleasant  taste.  If  you 
use  pearlash,  you  must  omit  the  lemon,  as 
its  taste  will  be  entirely  destroyed  by  the 
pearlash.  You  may  substitute  for  the  lem- 
on some  raisins  and  currants,  well  floured 
to  prevent  tiieir  sinking. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (1)  Take  four 
pounds  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar, 
an  ounce  of  caraway-seeds,  half  an  ounce 
of  ginger  pounded  and  sifted,  six  ounces  of 
fi-esh  butter,  and  two  ounces  of  candied  or- 
ange-peel cut  into  small  slices ;  then  take  a 
pound  of  treacle  or  honey,  and  a  gill  of 
cream,  make  tliera  warm  together;  mix  it, 
with  all  the  ingredients,  into  a  paste,  and 
let  it  lay  six  hours ;  then  roll  it  out,  make  it 
into  nuts,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (2)  Take 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  one 
pound  of  treacle,  three  ounces  of  brown  su- 
gar, four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  one  ounce 
and  a  half  of  pounded  and  sifted  ginger,  of 
candied  orange-peel  and  citron,  cut  small, 
ihree-quai'ters  of  an  ounce  each;  melt  the 


butter  with  the  treacle,  and  when  it  is  about 
milk-warm,  add  it  to  the  flour  and  other 
ingredients,  and  then  mix  all  well  together ; 
witli  a  spoon  drop  the  nuts  upon  buttered 
tins,  and  bake  them. 

GINGERBREAD    NUTS.     (3)    Dis- 

solve  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  tieacle,  put  it  into  a 
pan  large  enough  to  contain  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  and  when  almost  cold,  stir  in 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  half  a 
pound  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  half  an  ounce 
of  caraway  seeds,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  pounded  gingei',  and  the  grated  peel  of  a 
lemon ;  mix  all  these  well  together,  and  let 
it  stand  till  it  be  stiff,  or  till  the  following 
day,  then  make  it  into  nuts,  by  pinching  it 
into  pieces  with  the  finger  and  tliumb. 
Bake  them  upon  buttered  tins  in  a  quick 
oven.  Half  an  ounce  of  coriander  seeds 
u)ay  be  added. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (4)  Rub 
half  a  pound  of  butter  into  two  pounds  of 
flour;  add  one  pound  of  coarse  sugar,  and 
one  ounce  of  pounded  ginger;  mix  all  well 
together  with  one  pound  and  two  ounces  of 
treacle ;  form  it  into  nuts,  or  roll  it  out,  and 
cut  it  into  round  cakes;  bake  them  upon 
tins. 

GINGERBREAD,  OATMEAL.  Sift 
four  pounds  of  oatmeal,  and  mix  with  it  four 
pounds  of  treacle,  half  a  pound  of  brown  su- 
gar, the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter,  and 
tliree-(|uarters  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  gin- 
ger. Woik  it  all  well  together,  let  it  re- 
main for  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  make 
it  into  cakes. 

GINGER  BEER.     See  Beer. 

GINGER  CAKES.  Put  four  pounds  of 
flour  u]3on  the  dresser ;  then  take  a  copper 
saucepan,  and  break  into  it  six  eggs,  and 
mix  them  well  with  a  spoon ;  add  one  pint 
of  cream  to  them,  and  beat  them  well;  put 
the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  stir  till  your  mix- 
ture is  warm ;  put  two  pounds  of  butter  into 
the  cream  and  eggs,  and  one  pound  of  sugar, 
and  keep  stirring  it  over  a  very  slow  fii-e, 
just  to  melt  all  the  butter;  put  in  four  ounces 
of  pounded  ginger,  and  as  soon  as  all  the 
butter  is  melted,  pour  it  all  into  the  middle 
of  the  flour ;  mix  it  as  well  as  you  possibly 
can,  till  it  becomes  a  fine  paste ;  then  roll  it 
out  with  flour  under  it  on  your  dresser;  cut 
them  to  the  size  of  the  top  of  a  tea-cup,  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  and  before 
you  put  them  into  the  oven  (which  should  be 
very  hot),  place  three  papers  under  them. 

GINGER  IMITATION.    Peel  off  the 


GLA 


87 


GOO 


oater  coat  of  the  tender  stems  of  lettuce  that  is 
short,  cut  it  into  bits  one  or  two  inches  long, 
and  throw  it  into  cold  water ;  to  each  pound 
put  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  Cayenne,  and  a 
little  salt ;  let  it  stand  one  or  two  days ;  al- 
low an  ecjual  proportion  of  fine  loaf  sugar, 
which  clarify.  Soak  some  good  ginger  in 
hot  water,  slice  it,  and  add  it  to  the  sugar, 
allowing  one  ounce  and  a  half  to  the  pound, 
and  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes ;  strain  off  the 
water  from  the  lettuce,  and  pour  over  it 
the  sirup,  keeping  back  the  ginger,  with 
which  die  simp  must  be  boiled  three  times, 
and  poured  over  the  lettuce,  two  or  tlu-ee 
days  intervening  between  each  boiling;  and 
at  last  add  the  strained  juice  of  one  or  two 
lemons. 

GLACE,  ROYAL.  Put  the  white  of  a 
new-laid  egg  into  a  pan,  and  mix  with  it  a 
Bufficient  quantity  of  white  powder-sugar  to 
make  a  glace  or  icing,  neither  too  dry  nor 
too  liquid;  beat  it  well,  and  add  a  little 
lemon-juice  to  whiten  it.  By  mixing  witli 
this  glace,  carmine,  saffron,  indigo,  spi- 
nach-juice, &c. ;  it  will  be  either  rose-col- 
ored, yellow,  blue,  green,  &c.  according  to 
your  taste. 

GLAZE.  (1)  Take  the  remains  of 
any  liquor  in  which  meat  has  been  cooked, 
and  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve  until  quite 
clear ;  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  re- 
duce it  over  a  brisk  fire:  as  soon  as  it  is 
suflSciently  done,  that  is,  when  it  sticks  to 
the  spoon,  put  it  into  a  smaller  saucepan, 
and  set  it  in  the  bain-marie;  when  wanted, 
add  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter  to  it,  to 
correct  its  saJtness. 

GLAZE.  (2)  Make  a  consomme  with 
whatever  remnants  of  fowls  or  meat  that  may 
be  in  the  house ;  strain  it,  and  then  put  it  on 
the  fire  with  two  or  three  whites  of  eggs 
beaten  to  a  snow ;  stir  till  it  boils,  and  then 
set  on  the  side  of  tlie  stove,  and  place  fire 
on  tlie  saucepan  lid ;  as  soon  as  the  eggs  are 
set,  pass  the  glaze  through  a  wet  cloth ;  re- 
duce this  over  a  large  fire,  stirring  it  con- 
stantly with  a  wooden  spoon  to  prevent  its 
sticking ;  then  pour  it  into  a  j)ot  for  use. 
When  wanted,  put  a  small  quantity  of  it  in- 
to a  saucepan,  and  make  it  hot  over  a  slow 
fire;  and,  in  this  state,  lay  it  gently  over 
such  articles  as  may  require  glazing,  by 
I  of  a  feather. 


GLAZE.  (3)  Desire  the  butcher  to  break 
the  bones  of  a  leg  or  a  shin  of  beef,  of  ten 
pounds  weight  (the  fresher  killed  the  better) ; 
put  it  into  a  soup-pot  (a  digester  is  the  l)est 
utensil  for  this  purpose)  that  will  well  hold 
it;  just  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  set  it 
on  the  fire  to  heat  gradually  till  it  nearly 


boils  (this  should  be  at  least  an  hour) ;  skim 
it  attentively  while  any  scum  rises ;  pour  in 
a  little  cold  water,  to  throw  up  the  scum 
that  may  remain ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil  again, 
and  again  skim  it  carefully:  when  no  more 
scum  rises,  and  the  broth  appears  clear  (put 
in  neither  roots,  nor  herbs,  nor  salt),  let  it 
boil  for  eight  or  ten  hours,  and  then  strain 
it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  brown  stone 
pan ;  set  the  brotli  where  it  will  cool  quickly; 
put  the  meat  into  a  sieve,  let  it  drain,  make 
potted  beef,  or  it  will  be  very  acceptable  to 
many  poor  families.  Next  day  remove 
every  particle  of  fet  from  the  top  of  it,  and 
pour  it  through  a  tamis,  or  fine  sieve,  as 
quietly  as  possible,  into  a  stewpan,  taking 
care  not  to  let  any  of  the  settlings  at  the 
bottom  of  die  stone  pan  go  into  the  stewpan, 
which  should  be  of  thick  copper,  perfectly 
well  tinned ;  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
whole  black  pepper  to  it ;  let  it  boil  briskly, 
with  the  stewpan  uncovered,  on  a  quick 
fire  j  if  any  scum  rises,  take  it  oflf  with  a 
skimmer:  when  it  begins  to  thicken,  and  is 
reduced  to  about  a  quart,  put  it  into  a  smal- 
ler stewpan ;  set  it  over  a  gentler  fire,  till  k 
is  reduced. 

GODIVEAU.  Take  fillet  of  veal  or 
breasts  of  fowl  or  game,  fresh  pork  or 
sausage  meat,  beef-marrow  or  suet,  equal 
quantities  of  each,  veal  sweetbreads,  trut 
fles,  and  mushrooms ;  season  these  articlei 
with  pepper,  cloves,  and  nutmeg,  all  in 
powder;  pound  them  all  togedier,  and 
put  in  (one  at  a  time)  the  yolks  of  eggs; 
pour  in  also  a  little  water,  pounding  con- 
tinually, until  it  is  reduced  to  a  sort  of  paste. 
Make  a  small  ball  of  it,  which  boil  in  a 
little  water  to  ascertain  whetlier  it  be  suf. 
ficiently  salt;  sweet  herbs  may  be  added 
when  you  are  about  to  use  it.  The  godiveau 
is  used  as  a  farce  for  tourtes  and  hot  pie«. 

GOOSE,  TO   CHOOSE.    Be  careful 

in  choosing  a  goose,  that  the  bill  and  feet 
are  yellow,  as  it  will  be  young :  when  old 
the  feet  and  bill  are  red.  When  they  are 
fresh  tlie  feet  are  pliable ;  if  stale  they  are 
diy  and  stiff.  Green  geese  are  in  season 
from  May  or  June,  till  they  are  three  months 
old;  they  should  be  scalded.  A  stubble 
goose  is  good  till  it  is  five  or  six  months 
old,  and  should  be  picked  dry. 

GOOSE  ROASTED.  A  stubble  gooee 
should  be  stuffed  with  sage  and  onions, 
chopped  small,  and  mixed  with  pepper  and 
salt ;  boil  die  sage  and  onion  in  a  little  ws»- 
ter  before  they  are  chopped,  or  mix  a  few 
bread  crumbs  with  tliem  when  chopped; 
either  will  render  tliem  less  strong.  Put  it 
first  at  a  distace  fi-om  the  fire,  and  by  de- 
grees  draw   it    nearer,      A  slip  of  paper 


GOO 


88 


GRA 


should  be  skewered  on  the  breast  bone. 
Baste  it  very  well.  When  the  breast  is 
rising,  take  off  the  paper,  and  be  careful  to 
serve  it  before  tlie  breast  falls,  it  will  be 
spoiled  by  coming  to  table  ffettened.  Serve 
it  with  good  grav7  and  apple  sauce,  in 
boats.  It  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a 
I  fcalf  to  roast. 

GOOSE  TO  TRUSS.  The  goose  must 
be  first  well  picked  and  stubbed,  tlien  cut 
off  the  pinions  at  the  first  joint,  and  the 
feet  also.  Make  a  slit  in  tlie  back  of  the 
neck,  and  take  out  the  throat,  cut  off  tlie 
neck  close  to  the  back  and  the  skin,  but 
leave  enough  to  turn  over  the  back  ;  make  a 
slit  between  the  vent  "and  the  rump,  through 
which  draw  out  the  entrails,  then  wipe  it 
clean.  Draw  the  legs  up,  keeping  them 
close  to  the  side,  then  put  a  skewer  into 
the  wing,  through  the  middle  of  the  leg, 
body,  and  the  leg  and  wing  on  the  other 
side  ;  put  another  skewer  through  the  small 
of  the  leg,  which  keep  close  to  the  sidesmen ; 
run  it  through,  and  do  the  same  on  the  oth- 
er side.  Cut  tlii-ough  die  end  of  tlie  vent, 
through  which  put  the  rump,  to  prevent  the 
stuffing  from  falling  out. 

GOOSEBERRY  CREAM.  Boil  one 
quart  of  gooseberries  very  quick,  in  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  them :  stir  in  about  half 
an  ounce  bf  good  butter;  when  they  are 
soft,  pulp  them  through  a  sieve;  sweeten 
the  pulp  while  it  is  hot,  with  sugar,  then 
beat  it  up  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs ;  serve 
in  a  dish,  cups,'  or  glasses. 

GOOSEBERRY  FOOL.  Put  goose- 
beiTies  into  a  stone  jar,  with  some  fine  su- 
gar ;  put  the  jar  either  in  a  stove,  or  in  a 
saucepan  of  water,  over  the  fire ;  if  in  a 
stove,  a  large  spoonfiil  of  water  should  be 
added  to  the  fruit.  When  it  is  done  to  pulp, 
press  it  through  a  colander ;  have  ready  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  new  milk,  and  a  tea- 
cupfiil  of  raw  cream,  boiled  together,  or 
you  may  use  an  egg  instead  of  the  cream ; 
leave  it  to  get  cold,  then  sweeten  well  with 
fine  sugar,  and  mix  the  pulp  by  degrees 
with  it. 

GOOSEBERRY  MARMALADE.  Boil 
them  a  moment,  or  only  scald  them  in  boil- 
ing water,  sift  them  through  a  sieve ;  reduce 
them  over  the  fire  to  half,  then  mix  them 
with  sugar  prepared  to  the  ninth  degree  (a 
ia  grande  plume) ,  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
a  pound  of  fruit. 

GOOSEBERRY  JAM.     See  Jam, 

GOOSEBERRY  PASTE.  Gather, 
whoa  quite  ripe,  the  rough  red  gooseberries ; 


top  and  tail  tliem ;  put  them  into  a  jar,  tie 
it  over  with  bladder,  and  boil  it  in  a  pot 
of  water  till  the  fruit  be  perfectly  soft ;  pour 
off  the  thin  juice,  and  with  a  wooden  spoon 
rub  the  gooseberries  tlirough  a  fine  hair 
sieve ;  allow  rather  more  than  half  the 
weight  of  the  pulp  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
mix  it  together,  and  boil  it  till  it  will  jelly, 
which  will  take  almost  two  hours ;  stir,  and 
skim  it,  then  put  it  into  a  dish,  and  seiTe 
when  cold,  to  be  eaten  with  cream.  The 
thin  juice  may  lie  boiled  with  its  weight  of 
good  brown  sugar,  and  used  as  gooseberry 

jelly- 

GOURDS  FRIED.  (1)  Cut  five  or  six 
gourds  in  quarters ;  take  off  the  skin  and 
pulp ;  stew  them  in  the  same  manner  as  for 
table:  when  done,  drain  them  quite  dry; 
beat  up  an  egg,  and  dip  the  gourds  in  it, 
and  cover  them  well  over  with  bread-crumbs ; 
make  some  hog's-lard  hot,  and  fi-y  tliem  a 
nice  light  color ;  throw  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  over  them,  and  serve  up  quite  dry. 

GOURDS  FRIED.  (2)  Take  six  or 
eight  small  gourds,  as  near  of  a  size  as  pos- 
sible; slice  them  with  a  cucumter-slice ; 
dry  them  in  a  cloth,  and  then  fry  them  in 
very  hot  lard ;  throw  over  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve  up  on  a  napkin.  Great  at- 
tention is  requisite  to  do  these  well ;  if  the 
fat  is  quite  hot  they  are  done  in  a  minute, 
and  will  soon  spoil ;  if  not  hot  enough,  they 
will  eat  greasy  and  tough. 

GOURDS  STEWED.  Take  off  all 
the  skin  of  six  or  eight  gourds,  put  them  in- 
to a  stewpan,  with  water,  salt,  lemon-juice, 
and  a  bit  of  butter,  or  fat  bacon,  and  let 
them  stew  gently  till  quite  tender,  and  sen'e 
up  with  a  rich  Dutch  sauce,  or  any  other 
sauce  you  please  that  is  piquante. 

GRAPES,  COMPOTE.  Boil  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  with  half  a  glass  of  wa- 
ter, till  it  is  reduced  to  a  strong  sirup ;  skim, 
and  dien  put  into  it  a  pound  of  grapes,  pick- 
ed from  the  stalks,  and  the  seeds  taken  out; 
give  them  a  boil  two  or  three  times,  and 
then  place  them  in  a  dessert  dish:  if  there  is 
any  scum  upon  them,  carefully  wij)e  it  off 
with  white  paper. 

GRAPES,  PICKLED.  The  giapes 
must  be  at  their  full  growth,  but  not  ripe, 
cut  them  in  small  bunches  ;  put  them  in  a 
stone  jar,  with  vine  leaves  Ijetween  each 
layer  of  grapes,  till  the  jar  is  full;  then  take 
as"  much  spring-water  as  will  cover  the 
grapes  and  the  leaves  ;  as  it  heats  put  in  as 
much  salt  as  will  make  a  brine  sufficiently 
strong  to  bear  an  egg ;  you  must  use  half 
bay  salt  and   half  common   salt ;    when   it 


GRA 


89 


GRA 


boils,  skim  it ;  strain  it  thi-ough  a  flannel 
bag,  and  let  it  stand  to  settle ;  by  the  time  it 
is  cold  it  will  be  quite  settled ;  strain  it  a 
second  time  through  a  flannel  bag ;  then  pour 
it  into  the  jar,  upon  the  grapes,  which  must 
be  well  covered ;  fill  the  jar  with  vine  leaves ; 
then  tie  it  over  with  a  double  cloth,  and  set 
a  plate  upon  it;  let  it  stand  for  two  days, 
then  take  off"  the  cloth,  pour  away  the  brine, 
and  take  out  the  leaves  and  the  grapes,  and 
lay  them  between  two  cloths  to  dry;  then 
take  two  quarts  of  vinegar,  one  quart  of 
spring-water,  and  one  pound  of  coarse  sugar, 
boil  it  for  a  short  time,  and  skim  it  veiy 
clean  as  it  boils ;  let  it  stand  till  it  is  quite 
cold;  wipe  the  jar  very  clean  and  dry,  lay 
some  fi-esh  vine  leaves  at  the  bottom,  between 
every  bunch  of  gra{)es,  and  on  the  top ;  then 
pour  and  strain  the  pickle  on  the  grapes ; 
fill  tlie  jar ;  let  the  pickle  be  above  the  grapes ; 
tie  up  a  thin  piece  of  board  in  a  flannel,  lay 
it  on  the  giapes  to  keep  them  under  the 
pickle ;  tie  them  down  with  a  bladder,  and 
over  that  a  leather.  Always  keep  the  grapes 
under  the  pickle. 

GRATIN.  Cut  half  a  pound  of  fillet  of 
veal  into  dice,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  few  mushrooms, 
parsley,  shallots  chopped  small,  salt,  pepper, 
and  spices;  stir  them  up  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  and  when  the  meat  has  been  on  the 
fire  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take  the 
drain  off"  the  butter,  mince  it  very  small,  and 
put  it  into  a  mortar,  with  fifteen  fowl  or 
game  livers,  well  washed,  dried,  and  par- 
boiled, all  the  bitter  parts  taken  out,  pound 
them,  adding  at  times  as  much  panada  as 
you  have  meat;  boil  some  calf's  udder,  trim, 
and  remove  all  the  skin  when  cold,  and  put 
al)OHt  a  third  of  the  quantity  of  meat,  and 
pound  them  together,  adding,  one  at  a  time, 
three  yolks,  and  three  whole  eggs ;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  spices;  when  well 
pounded,  set  it  by  in  an  earthen  pan  for 
use. 


GRAVY. 
Sauces. 


See  also  Cullis  and 


GRAVIES,  DIRECTIONS  respect- 
ING. — The  skirts  of  beef  and  the  kidney, 
will  make  quite  as  good  gravy  as  any  other 
meat,  if  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

The  kidney  of  an  ox,  or  the  milt,  makes 
excellent  gravy,  cut  all  to  pieces,  and  pre- 
pared as  other  meat ;  and  so  will  the  shaYik 
end  of  mutton  that  has  been  dressed,  if  much 
gravy  is  not  required. 

The  shank-bones  of  mutton  add  gi'eatly  to 
the  richness  of  gravy ;  but  they  should"  be 
first  well  soaked,  and  scoured  clean. 

To  obtain  the  flavor  of  French  cookery, 
and  to  improve  the  taste  of  the  gravies,  tar- 
8* 


ragon  should  be  used ;  but  it  must  not  be 
added  till  a  short  time  before  serving. 

GRAVY.  (1)  Take  three  pounds  of  beef 
steaks,  two  rabbits,  (excepting  the  heads 
and  breasts),  a  knuckle  of  veal,  five  carrots, 
six  onions,  two  cloves,  two  bay  leaves,  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  scallions ;  put  all  these 
into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ladlesfiil  of  broth, 
and  set  them  over  a  good  fire  to  reduce; 
then  cover  the  stove,  and  let  the  stev»rpan 
sta)id  over  it,  until  the  meat  begins  to  give 
out  tlie  gravy,  and  adheres  slightly ;  the  jel- 
ly at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  ought  to  be 
nearly  black,  and  when  that  is  the  case, 
take  it  from  the  stove,  and  let  it  stand  for 
ten  minutes ;  then  fill  up  the  stewpan  with 
good  broth,  or  water,  (if  die  latter,  not  so 
large  a  quantity) ;  let  this  simmer  for  three 
hom-s;  skim  and  season  it  well.  If  water 
is  used  instead  of  broth,  the  gravy  must  be 
strained  before  it  is  used.  Gravy  may  also 
be  made  of  any  pieces  of  ready  dressed 
meat,  in  the  following  manner:  cut  some 
onions  into  slices,  lay  tliem  at  the  bottom  of 
the  stewpan,  and  the  meat  on  them,  witli 
the  same  ingredients  as  above,  and  two  or 
three  glasses  of  water ;  dien  proceed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  other,  until  the  bottom 
of  the  stev\'pan  is  nearly  black,  when  add 
water  according  to  the  quantity  of  meat; 
put  salt  if  necessary,  and  simmer  the  whole 
len  strain  it  through  a 


for   two  hours 
sieve 


GRAVY.  (2)  Cut  down  into  slices  four 
pounds  of  lean  beef,  rub  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  with  butter,  and  put  in  the  meat ;  turn  it 
frequently  till  it  be  well  browned,  and  do  it 
slowly,  then  add  four  quarts  of  cold  water ; 
when  it  has  boiled  two  hours,  put  in  two 
dessert-spoonfuls  of  whole  pepper,  one  car- 
rot, and  three  onions ;  let  it  stew  gently  for 
four  hours  longer,  strain  it,  and  when  it  is 
required  for  use,  take  off  the  fat.  This  gra- 
vy answers  for  all  made  dishes  when  brown 
gravy  sauce  is  used. 

GRAVY  AND  STUFFING  FOR 
DUCKS.  Boil  all  the  giblets  excepting  the 
liver  for  an  hour  in  a  pint  of  water  with  ai 
chopped  onion,  some  salt  and  pepper;  strain, 
and  add  a  veiy  little  browning,  with  a  tea- 
spoonfiil  of  coratch,  and  one  of  mushroom 
ketchup;  for  the  stuffing,  mince  the  raw 
liver  with  two  sage  leaves,  a  small  onion, 
some  pepper  and  salt,  a  bit  of  butter,  and 
grated  bread  crumbs. 

Send  your  sauces  to  table  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible. 

Nothing  can  be  more  unsightly  than  the 
surface  of  a  sauce  in  a  fi-ozen  state,  or  gar- 
nished with  grease  on  the  top.  The  best 
way  to  get  rid  of  this,  is  to  pass  it  through 


(iRA 


90 


GRA 


a  tamis  or  napkin  previously  soaked  in  cold 
water ;  the  coldness  of  the  napkin  will  coag- 
ulate the  fat,  and  only  suffer  the  pure  gravy 
to  pass  through :  if  any  particles  of  fat  re- 
main, take  them  off  by  applying  filtering  pa- 
per, as  blotting  paper  is  applied  to  writing. 
Let  your  sauces  boil  up  after  you  put  in 
wine,  anchovy,  or  thickening,  that  theii-  fla- 
vors may  be  well  blended  witli  the  other  in- 
gredients; and  keep  in  mind  that  the 
top-knot  of  COOKERY  is,  to  entertain  die 
mouth  witliout  offending  the  stomach. 

GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES.     It  is  of 

as  much  importajiice  that  die  cook  should 
know  how  to  make  a  boat  of  good  gravy  for 
poultry,  &c.  as  that  it  should  be  sent  up  of 
proper  complexion,  and  nicely  frodied. 

We  shall  endeavor  to  introduce  to  her  all 
the  materials  which  give  flavor  in  sauce 
which  is  the  essence  of  soup,  and  intended 
lo  contain  more  relish  in  a  tea-spoonful 
than  the  former  does  in  a  table-spoonful. 

We  hope  to  deseive  as  much  praise  fiom 
the  economist  as  we  do  from  the  bon  vivant; 
as  we  have  taken  great  pains  to  introduce  to 
him  the  methods  of  making  substitutes  for 
those  ingredients,  which  are  always  expen- 
sive, and  often  not  to  be  had  at  all.  Many 
of  these  cheap  articles  are  as  savory  and 
as  salutary  as  the  dearer  ones,  and  tliose  who 
have  large  families  and  limited  incomes,  will, 
no  doubt,  be  glad  to  avail  themselves  of 
them. 

The  reader  may  rest  assured,  that  wheth- 
er he  consults  this  book  to  diminish  the  ex- 
pense f)r  increase  the  pleasures  of  hospitality, 
he  will  find  all  the  information  that  was  to 
be  obtained  up  to  1832,  communicated  in 
the  most  unreserved  and  intelligible  manner. 

A  great  deal  of  die  elegance  of  cookeiy 
depends  upon  the  accompaniments  to  each 
dish  being  appropriate  and  well  adapted 
to  it. 

We  can  assure  our  readers,  no  attention 
has  been  wanting  on  our  j)art  to  render  this 
department  of  the  work  worthy  of  their  pe- 
i*usal  I  each  receipt  is  the  faithful  "narrative 
of  actual  and  repeated  experiments,  and  has 
received  the  most  deliberate  consideration 
before  it  was  here  presented  to  diera.  It  is 
given  in  the  most  circumstantial  manner, 
and  not  in  the  technical  and  mysterious  lan- 
guage former  wiiters  on  these  subjects  seem 
to  have  preferred ;  by  which  their  directions 
are  useless  and  unintelligible  to  all  who  have 
not  regularly  served  an  apprenticeship  at  tlie 
stove. 

It  will  be  to  very  little  purpose  that  I 
have  taken  so  much  pains  to  teach  how  to 
manage  roasts  and  boils,  if  a  cook  cannot  or 
will  not  make  the  several  sauces  Uiat  ai-e 
usually  sent  up  with  them. 

We  have,  therefore,  endeavored  to  give 


the  plainest  directions  how  to  produce,  with 
the  least  ti-ouble  and  expense  possible,  all 
the  various  compositions  the  English  kitchen 
affords ;  and  hojie  to  present  such  a  whole- 
some and  palatable  variety  as  will  suit  all 
tastes  and  all  pockets,  so  that  a  cook  may 
give  satisfaction  in  all  families.  The  more 
combinations  of  this  sort  she  is  acquainted 
with,  the  better  she  will  comprehend  the 
management  of  every  one  of  them. 

Let  your  seiuces  each  display  a  decided 
character;  send  up  your  plain  sauces  (oys- 
ter, lobster,  &c.)  as  pure  as  possible:  they 
should  only  taste  of  the  materials  from  which 
they  take  their  name. 

The  imagination  of  most  cooks  is  so  in- 
cessantly on  the  hunt  for  a  relish,  that  they 
seem  to  think  Uiey  cannot  make  sauce  suffi- 
ciently savory  without  putting  into  it  every- 
tliing  that  ever  was  eaten;  and  supposing 
every  addition  must  be  an  improvement,  diey 
frequently  overpower  the  natural  flavor  of 
their  plain  sauces,  by  overloading  them 
with  salt  and  spices,  &c. :  but,  remember, 
these  will  he  deteriorated  by  any  addition, 
save  only  just  salt  enough  to  awaken  die 
palate. 

On  thecontraiy,  of  COMPOUND  sauces; 
the  ingredients  should  be  so  nicely  propor- 
tioned, that  no  one  be  predominant;  so  that 
from  the  equal  union  of  die  combined  fla- 
vors such  a  fine  mellow  mixture  is  produced, 
whose  very  novelty  cannot  fail  of  teing  ac- 
ceptable to  die  persevering  gourmand,  if  it 
has  not  pretensions  to  a  permanent  place  at 
his  table. 

An  ingenious  cook  will  form  as  endless  a 
variety  of  these  compositions  as  a  musician 
with  his  seven  notes,  or  a  painter  with  his 
colors ;  no  part  of  her  business  offers  so  lair 
and  firequent  an  opportunity  to  display  her 
abilities:  spicks,  herbs,  &c.  are  often 
very  absmdly  and  injudiciously  jumbled  to- 
gether. 

Why  have  clove  and  allspice,  or  mace  and 
nutmeg,  in  the  same  sauce;  or  marjoram, 
thyme,  and  savory;  or  onions,  leeks,  es- 
chalots, and  garlic'?  one  will  very  well  suj)- 
ply  the  place  of  the  other,  and  the  frugtd 
cook  may  save  something  considerable  l<r 
attending  to  this,  to  the  advantage  of  hei- 
employers,  and  her  own  time  and  trouble. 

ICZF^  -See  Sauces  and  Cullis  for 
other  important  particulars. 

GRAVIES,  ESSENCE  OF  HAM 
FOR.  Pick  off  all  die  bits  of  meat  from  a 
ham-bone,  pound  them,  break  the  bone,  and 
put  all  intO'H  saucepan,  together  with  neaily 
half  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs ;  simmer  gently  for  sometime,  stirring 
it  occasionally ;  then  add  a  pint  of  gocd  beef 
gravy,  and  some  pepper,  and  continue  to 
simmer  it  till  it  be  well  flavored  with  th« 


GRA 


91 


GRA 


herbs ;  stniin,  and  keep  it  for  improving  rich 
gravies  and  sauces  of  all  descriptions. 

GRAVY  FOR  BOILED  MEAT,  May 

be  made  with  parings  and  trimmings;  or 
pom-  from  a  fiuarter  to  half  a  pint  of  the  li- 
quor in  which  the  meat  was  boiled,  into  the 
dish  vvidi  it,  and  pierce  the  inferior  part  of 
the  joint  with  a  shsu-p  skewer. 

GRAVY  FOR  ROAST  MEAT.  (1) 

Most  joints  will  afford  suflicient  triinmiiiga, 
&c.  to  make  half  a  pint  of  plain  gravy,  which 
)'OH  may  color  with  a  few  diops  of  browniiig: 
for  those  that  do  not,  alwut  half  an  hour  be- 
fore you  think  die  meat  will  be  done,  mix  a 
gait-spoonful  of  salt,  with  a  full  cjuarter-pint 
of  boiling  water;  drop  this  by  degrees  on 
the  brown  parts  of  the  joint ;  set  a  dish  un- 
der to  catch  it  (the  meat  will  soon  brown 
again);  set  it  by;  as  it  cools,  the  fat  will 
float  on  the  surface ;  when  the  meat  is  ready, 
carefully  remove  the  fat,  and  warm  up  die 
gravy,  anri  pour  it  into  the  dish. 

The  common  method  is,  when  the  meat 
is  in  the  dish  you  intend  to  send  it  up  in, 
to  mix  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  in  a  quarter 
pint  of  boiling  water,  and  to  drop  some  of 
this  over  the  corners  and  underside  of  the 
meat,  and  to  pour  die  rest  dirough  the  hole 
the  spit  came  out  of;  some  pierce  tlie  infe- 
rior parts  of  the  joints  with  a  sharp  skewer. 

The  following  receipt  was  given  us  by  a 
very  good  cook: — You  may  make  good 
browning  for  roast  meat  and  poultrj',  by 
saving  tlie  brown  bits  of  roast  meat  or  broil- 
ed; cut  them  small,  put  them  into  a  basin, 
cover  them  with  boiling  walei-,  and  put  them 
away  till  next  day ;  Uien  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, let  it  boil  two  or  three  minutes,  strain 
it  tlii'ough  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  put  it 
away  for  use.  When  you  want  gravy  for 
roast  meat,  put  two  table-spoonfuls  into  half 
a  pint  of  boiling  water  widi  a  little  salt:  if 
for  roasted  veal,  put  three  table-spoonfuls 
into  half  a  pint  of  thin  melted  butter. 

The  gravy  which  comes  down  in  the  dish, 
the  cook  (if  she  is  a  good  housewife)  will 
pr'Cf^erve  to  enrich  hashes  or  little  nuide 
dishes-,  &.C. 

GRAVY  FOR  ROAST   MEAT.    (2) 

About  a  quarter  of  an  how  before  the  meat 
is  taken  from  the  fire,  put  a  common  dish 
with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  in  it  under  the 
meat;  when  it  has  all  run  into  the  dish,  re- 
move it,  baste  and  froth  the  meat,  and  pour 
tile  gravy  into  the  dish  on  which  the  roast  is 
to  be  served. 

GRAVY  MADE  FROM  BONES. 
Break  into  small  pieces  a  pound  of  beef, 
mutton,  or  veal  bones,  if  mixed  together  so 
much  the  better ;  boil  them  in  two  quarts  of 


water,  and  afler  it  boils,  let  it  simmer  for 
nearly  du-ee  hours  :  boil  with  it  a  couple  of 
onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some  salt 
and  {lepper;  strain,  and  keep  it  for  making 
gravy  oi"  sauces.  The  bones  of  broiled  and 
roasted  meat  being  scraped,  washed  clean, 
and  boiled  in  less  water,  answer  equally  well 
for  this  purpose. 

GRAVY  MADE  WITHOUT  MEAT. 

(1)  Slice  duee  onions,  and  ti-y  them  brown 
in  a  little  buttei- ;  add  diem  to  half  a  pint 
of  water,  and  die  same  of  beer,  put  in  some 
I)eppercorns,  salt,  a  little  lemon  peel,  three 
cloves,  a  Itttle  mace  or  pepper,  a  spoonful 
of  wahuit  pickle,  and  one  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  of  soy  and  essence  of  anchovy  a 
dessert-spoonful  each,  a  small  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  a  quarter  of  a  slice  of  bread 
toasted  brown  on  both  sides ;  simmer  all  to- 
gether in  a  closely  covered  saucepan  for 
twenty  minutes,  dien  strain  it  for  use,  and 
when  cold  take  off  the  fat.  It  will  taste 
exactly  like  a  gravy  made  widi  meat. 

GRAVY  MADE  WITHOUT  MEAT. 

(2)  Knead  a  good  deal  of  flour  into  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  fiy  it  in  a  frj'- 
ing-pan  over  a  clear  fire,  stir  it  constantly 
with  a  wooden  spoon  till  it  become  a  nice 
brown  color,  taking  particular  care  that  it 
be  made  perfectly  smooth;  pour  in  some 
boiling  water,  add  a  little  finely-minced  on- 
ion, some  whole  pepper  and  a  little  salt,  put 
it  into  a 'small  saucepan,  cover  it  closely, 
and  simmer  it  for  a  short  time;  strain,  and 
mix  with  it  a  little  mushroom  ketchup,  and 
Port  wine. 

GRAVY    OR    RICH    CULLIS.     Cut 

into  slices  some  lean  beef,  veal,  and  mutton, 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  with  die 
veal,  then  put  in  a  few  slices  of  salt  pork, 
next  a  layer  of  beef,  add  a  few  onions  sliced, 
and  the  red  part  of  one  or  two  carrots,  a 
little  mace,  two  or  Uiree  cloves,  some  wiiole 
pep[)er,  and  two  or  three  bay-lea\es,  abo^e 
that  th.e  nuitton ;  cover  the  pan  closely,  set  it 
on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  the  meat  is  a  fine 
brown,  mix  quite  smooth  a  small  qnanlity 
of  flour  in  water,  stir  it  in,  and  dien  add  asj 
much  boiling  water  as  will  cover  the  meat 
well,  and  a  little  salt;  cover  the  pan  closely, 
and  let  it  stew  an  hour  and  a  half;  strain, 
and  keep  it  for  use;  it  will  continue  good  for 
eight  or  ten  days. 

GRAVY  DRAWN.  Put  a  few  pounds 
of  gi-avy-beef  sliced,  and  a  little  whole 
pepper,  into  ajar  with  a  cover  to  fit  closely; 
set  die  jai-  into  a  pot  of  cold  water,  and  wheu 
it  boils,  add  an  it  wastes  more  hot  water, 
and  keep  it  boiling  gently  for  six  or  seven 
hours,  when  the  richest  giavy   imaginable 


GRA 


92 


HAM 


will  be  obtained.     It  may  be  U! 
state,  or  reduced  witli  water. 


GRAVY,  TO  MAKE  A  PINT  OF 
RICH.  Brown  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  dredging  in  two  table-spoonfiils  of 
flour,  and  stirring  it  constantly ;  add  a  pound 
of  gravy-beef  cut  into  small  bits,  and  two  or 
three  onions  chopped.  When  it  becomes 
brown,  add  some  whole  pepper,  one  carrot, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  three  pints  of 
water ;  let  it  boil  gently  till  reduced  to  one, 
tlien  strain  it.  This  gravy  may  be  served 
with  roasted  turkey  or  fowl. 

GRAVY,  TO  CLARIFY.  Clarify  gra- 
vy,  drawn  from  beef  or  veal,  with  the  beaten 
whites  of  eggs,  allowing  one  white  to  a 
quart.  Gravies  and  soups  which  are  to  be 
clarified  should  be  made  very  strong,  and  be 
highly  seasoned. 

GRAVY  AND  SAUCE  ingredi- 
ents. Browning  for  made  dishes. — Put  into 
a  saucepan  one  pound  of  good  brown  sugar, 
stir  it  constantly  over  a  slow  fire,  boil  it 
till  it  is  as  thick  as  treacle,  and  resembles 
it  in  color ;  take  the  pan  off"  the  fire,  stir  it 
for  a  minute  or  two,  and  pour  in  very  slowly 
a  quart  of  boiling  water,  stirring  constantly ; 

!)ut  it  again  on  the  fire,  and  boil  it  for  a 
ittle;  pour  it  into  a  bowl,  and  when  cold, 
bottle  it.  This  browning  will  keep  good 
for  a  year,  and  very  little  of  it  serves  for 
coloring  soups,  gravies,  or  sauces. 

To  clarify  butter. — Put  the  butter  cut  into 
slices  into  a  nicely-cleaned  brass  pan,  stii"  it 
gently  till  dissolved:  when  it  lx)ils,  draw  tlie 
pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  skim  it,  and  let 
it  lx)il  gently  a  second  lime,  and  if  any  scum 
again  rises,  take  it  off";  let  it  settle  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  and  strain  it  gently  through 
a  sieve  which  has  a  piece  of  muslin  laid 
into  it. 

Fresh  Ijeef  suet,  picked  free  from  skin 
and  sinews,  is  dissolved  in  the  same  way ; 
it  is  then  strained  through  muslin  into  small 
jars,  and  when  cold,  covered  with  bladder, 
or  it  may  be  strained  into  cold  water;  and 
the  cake  when  cold,  wiped  dry,  folded  in 
white  paf)er,  and  kept  in  a  linen  bag. 

Beef  suet  will  keep  fresh  for  sometime 
if  finely  chopped  and  dredged  with  tlour, 
and  kept  in  white  paper  bags  in  a  cool  place. 

Beef  and  mutton  drippings  are  clarified 
exactly  in  the  manner  butter  is  done,  and 
each  kept  in  a  sepamte  jar. 

'J'o  melt  hog's-lard,  put  it  into  a  jar  plac- 
ed in  a  pot  of  water  or  water  bath,  strain  it 
into  clean  bladders  or  small  jars,  and  cover 
tliem  with  paper.  Thus  prepared,  it  will 
keep  good  a  length  of  time,  and  is  the  best 
thing  for  frying  fish  in. 

To  fry  parsley,  wash  it,  pick  it  clean. 


in  that  j  and  put  it  into  fresh  cold  v<'ater ,'  take  it  out 
and  then  throw  it  into  boiling  lard  or  drip- 
ping, when  it  will  instantly  become  crisp; 
it  is  then  taken  out  with  a  slice. 


GRUEL.     DR.  KITCHENER'S.    Ask 

those  who  are  to  eat  it,  if  they  like  it 
thick  or  thin ;  if  the  latter,  mix  well  togeth- 
er by  degrees,  in  a  pint  basin,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  oatmeal,  with  three  of  cold  wa- 
ter ;  if  the  former,  use  two  spoonfuls. 

Have  ready  in  a  stewpan,  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water  or  milk ;  pour  this  by  degrees  to 
the  oatmeal  you  have  mixed ;  return  it  into 
the  stewpan ;  set  it  on  tlie  fire,  and  let  it 
boil  for  five  minutes ;  stirring  it  all  the  time 
to  prevent  the  oatmeal  from  burning  at  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan ;  skim  and  strain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve. 

2d.  To  convert  this  into  caudle,  add  a 
little  ale,  wine,  or  brandy,  with  sugar ;  and 
if  the  bowels  are  disordered,  a  little  nutmeg 
or  ginger,  grated. 

Obs. — Gruel  may  be  made  with  broth  in- 
stead of  water;  and  may  l)e  flavored  with 
sweet  herbs,  soup  roots,  and  savory  spices, 
by  boiling  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  tlie 
water  you  are  going  to  make  the  gruel  with. 


H. 


HAM.  If  it  is  a  very  diy  Westphalia 
ham,  it  must  be  soaked,  according  to  its  age 
and  thickness,  from  twelve  to  twenty-four 
hours ;  for  a  green  ham,  from  four  to  eight 
hours  will  be  sufficient.  Lukewarm  water  will 
soften  it  much  sooner  than  cold,  when  suffi- 
ciently soaked,  trim  it  nicely  on  the  under- 
side, and  pare  oflT  all  the  rusty  and  smoked 
parts  till  it  looks  delicately  clean. 

Give  it  plenty  of  water-room,  and  put  it 
in  while  the  water  is  cold ;  let  it  heat  very 
gradually,  and  let  it  be  on  the  fire  an  hour 
and  a  half  Ijefore  it  comes  to  a  boil;  let  it 
be  well  skimmed,  and  keep  it  simmering 
very  gently:  a  middling-sized  ham  of  fiftfien 
pounds  will  be  done  enough  in  about  four  or 
five  hours,  according  to  its  thickness. 

If  not  to  be  cut  till  cold,  it  will  cut  the 
shorter  and  tenderer  for  being  boiled  about 
half  an  hour  longer.  In  a  very  small  family, 
where  a  ham  vyill  last  a  week  or  ten  days, 
it  is  best  economy  not  to  cut  it  till  it  is  cold, 
it  will  be  infinitely  more  juicy. 

Pull  oflf  the  skin  carefully,  and  preserAe  it 
as  whole  as  possible;  it  will  form  an  excel- 
lent covering  to  keep  the  ham  moist;  when 
you  have  removed  the  skin,  rub  some  bread 
raspings  tlirough  a  hair  sieve,  or  grate  a 
crust  of  bread;  put  it  into  the  perforated 
cover  of  the  dredging-box,  and  sliake  it  over 


HAM 


93 


HAM 


it,  or  glaze  it;  trim  the  knuckle  with  a 
fringe  of  cut  writing-paper.  You  may  gar- 
nish with  spillage  or  turnips,  &c. 

To  pot  ham  is  a  much  more  useful  and 
economical  way  of  disposing  of  the  remains 
of  the  joint,  tlian  making  essence  of  it. 

HAM  AND  EGGS.  Cut  some  ham 
into  thin  slices,  and  broil  them  on  a  gridiron. 
Fry  some  eggs  in  butter.  Serve  it,  laying 
an  egg  on  each  slice  of  ham. 

HAM,  ESSENCE  OF.  Take  three  or 
four  pounds  of  lean  ham,  cut  it  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  lay  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  slices  of  carrots,  parsnips,  and 
tliree  or  four  onions ;  let  them  stew  till  they 
stick  to  the  pan,  but  take  care  they  do  not 
burn;  then  by  degrees  pour  in  some  good 
veal  gravy,  a  few  fresh  mushrooms  cut  in 
pieces,  (or  mushroom-powder),  truffles,  mor- 
els, cloves,  parsley,  leek,  basil,  and  a  crust 
of  bread;  cover  it  close,  and  simmer  till 
pretty  thick,  then  strain  it  off  for  use. 

HAM  GRAVY.  Take  a  deep  sauce- 
pan, put  into  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  seve- 
ral slices  of  ham,  about  six  pieces  of  veal 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  two  or  three  car- 
rots cut  in  small  pieces;  set  these  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  let  diem  stand  till  tliey  give 
out  their  juices,  and  the  ham  and  veal  be- 
come crisp  and  stick;  then  put  in  a  little 
stock,  and  let  it  boil ;  in  an  hour's  time  add 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  leave  it  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  when  it  will  be  sufficiently  done; 
take  off  every  particle  of  fat ;  strain  it  into 
a  pan,  and  set  it  by  for  use. 

HAM  LOAF.  Soak  a  fine  ham  in  cold 
water  for  one  or  two  days,  according  to  its 
age;  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  just  big 
enough  to  hold  it,  with  no  more  water  than 
will  cover  it,  and  a  pint  of  white  wine;  let 
it  boil,  skimming  it  carefully,  till  done. 
When  cold,  take  out  the  hock  and  under 
bones,  and  the  skin ;  pare  away  some  of  the 
fat,  and  trim  it  to  an  oval  form  as  much  as 
possible.  Make  a  farce  with  the  parings  of 
the  fat,  some  veal  or  game,  and  sweet  herbs 
minced  and  pounded.  Take  a  pan  the  size 
you  wish  to  have  your  loaf,  lay  all  over  the 
inside  a  pretty  firm  paste,  and  tlien  (hav- 
ing cut  your  ham  into  thin  slices)  place  al- 
ternate layers  of  it  and  the  farce  in  tlie  pan, 
until  it  be  quite  full.  Put  a  crust  over  the 
top,  which  must  unite  with  that  in  which 
itte  ham  is ;  turn  it  over  on  a  baking  plate, 
flour  it,  and  put  it  into  a  very  hot  oven  for 
an  hour  and  a  half  or  two  hours,  according 
to  its  size.     Serve  it  cold. 

HAM,    MINCED,   WITH   FRIED    EGGS. 

§ee  E^gs- 


HAM  OMELET.  Take  a  slice  of  boiled 
ham,  mince  it  as  small  as  possible,  and  mix 
it  with  a  dozen  eggs  beaten  witli  a  little  veal 
gravy;  fry  it  (keeping  it  of  an  equal  tliick- 
ness)  in  the  usual  manner. 

HAM,  OR  TONGUE  POTTED.     Cut 

a  pound  of  the  lean  of  cold  boiled  ham  or 
tongue,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  fat,  or  with  fresh 
butter  (in  the  proportion  of  about  two  ounces 
to  a  pound),  till  it  is  a  fine  paste  (some  sea- 
son it  by  degrees  with  a  little  pounded  mace 
or  allspice) :  put  it  close  down  in  pots  for 
that  purpose,  and  cover  it  with  clarified 
butter,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  tliick;  let  it 
stand  one  night  in  a  cool  place.  Send  it 
up  in  the  pot,  or  cut  out  in  thin  slices. 

HAM  ROASTED  WITH  MADEIRA. 

Take  a  fine  Westphalia  or  Bayonne  ham, 
pare  and  trim  it  of  as  round  a  form  jis  possi- 
ble, take  off  the  end  bone,  and  remove 
the  rind  fi"om  the  knuckle ;  then  lay  the  ham 
on  a  gridiron  over  the  fire,  till  you  can  take 
it  up  with  ease ;  soak  it,  if  necessary,  and 
put  it  in  a  pan,  with  slices  of  carrots  and 
onions,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  and  coriander ;  pour 
a  bottle  of  Madeira  upon  it,  cover  it  with  a 
clean  cloth,  and  close  the  pan  as  tight  as 
possible,  and  let  it  remain  twenty-four  hours; 
then  wrap  the  ham  in  very  thick  pajier,  fas- 
ten it  with  paste,  so  tliat  it  may  be  com- 
pletely enclosed,  tie  it  on  a  spit,  and  put 
it  to  roast  for  three  hours;  then  make  a 
small  hole  in  the  paper,  and  pour  in,  by 
means  of  a  funnel,  4;he  Madeira  wine,  paste 
paper  over  the  hole,  and  let  it  roast  anoUier 
hour.  When  done,  take  off  the  paper  care- 
fully, so  that  none  of  the  g^"avy  may  escape, 
mix  it  with  some  reduced  espagrwhy  glaze 
the  ham,  and  serve  it. 

HAM  TOAST.  Cut  some  crumb  of 
bread  into  thin  slices;  then  take  an  equal 
number  of  thin  slices  of  ham,  beat  them  well 
with  a  rolling  pin,  and  then  soak  them  in 
warm  water  for  about  two  hours ;  take  them 
out,  dry  them  well,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  little  bacon,  a  slice  of  veal, 
and  half  a  glass  of  stock ;  let  tliem  boil  for 
half  an  hour,  and  then  add  half  a  glass  of 
veal  blond.  Fry  yoiur  bread  to  a  nice  col- 
or in  some  lard ;  lay  it  on  a  dish,  and  on  each 
piece  lay  a  slice  of  the  ham ;  pour  the  sauce 
over  them.  Take  particular  care  to  cut 
the  ham  as  nearly  as  possible  the  size  and 
shape  of  tlie  bread. 

HAM  TO  STEW.  Soak  the  ham  in 
lukewarm  water  for  twelve  houi-s,  drain  it, 
and  scrape  the  rind ;  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  round  the  sides, 
four  quarts  of  weak  stock,  a  good  deal  of 


HAR 


94 


HAR 


parsley,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  six  large 
■onions,  four  caiTots,  a  little  allspice  and 
pepper,  a  pint  of  Madeira,  and  one  of  Port 
wine.  Cover  the  ham  witli  slices  of  fat  ba- 
con, and  put  over  it  a  sheet  of  white  paper; 
stew  it  eight  hoiu's,  or  ten  if  it  be  a  very 
large  ham.  Before  sening,  take  off  the 
rind,  strain  the  sauce,  skim  it  well,  and 
•boil  it  till  reduced  to  a  glaze,  and  pour  it 
round  the  ham,  or  serve  it  witli  any  other 
eauce  diat  may  be  preferred. 

HAM  WITH  MADEIRA.  Soak  in 
water  for  two  hoiu-s  a  Bayonne,  or  any  other 
fine  ham,  bofl  it  for  two  hours,  trim  it  quick- 
ly, and  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  thin 
«lices  of  veal  at  tlie  bottom ;  add  some  car- 
rots and  parsley,  and  season  with  spices. 
Pour  over  the  ham  a  pint  of  rich  stock  and 
a  bottle  of  Madeira ;  let  it  boil  for  two  hours, 
strain  and  skim  the  fat  off  the  sauce, 
which,  with  tlie  ham,  must  be  served  quite 
hot. 

HARE.  As  soon  as  the  cook  receives  a 
hare,  she  should  take  out  the  liver,  &c.,  wipe 
it  well,  put  in  a  little  pepper,  and  hang  it 
■•op.  When  wanted  for  dressing,  cut  off 
ihe  four  legs  at  the  first  joint,  raise  the 
skin  of  the  back,  and  draw  it  over  the 
hind  legs ;  leave  the  tail  whole,  tlien  draw 
the  skin  over  the  back,  and  slip  out  the  foiu- 
legs ;  cut  it  from  the  neck  and  head ;  skin 
the  ears,  and  leave  them  on.  Clean  tlie 
vent.  Cut  the  sinews  under  the  hind  legs ; 
bring  them  forward ;  run  a  skewer  through 
one  hind  leg,  the  body,  and  another  hind 
leg ;  do  the  same  with  the  fore  legs ;  lay  the 
head  rather  back ;  put  a  skewer  in  at  the 
mouth,  through  the  back  of  tlie  head  and 
between  the  shoulders;  put  in  the  stuffing, 
and  tie  it  round  ^ith  a  string,  passing  it 
over  the  legs  to  keep  them  in  their  places : 
the  hare  is  then  ready  for  roasting.  See 
Hare  Rotutted. 

HARE,  JUGGED.  Having  skinned  a 
hare,  cut  off  the  shoulders  and  legs,  and  di- 
vide the  hack  into  three  pieces;  rub  them 
well  with  fat  bacon,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  trimmings,  allspice,  mace, 
whole  pepijer,  a  small  clove  of  garlic,  two 
bay-leaves,  three  onions,  parsley,  thyme, 
sweet  marjoram,  a  quart  of  veal  stock,  and 
thiee  gills  of  Port  wine ;  simmer  the  whole 
till  three  parts  done ;  then  take  out  the  shoul- 
ders, legs,  and  back ;  put  them  into  another 
stewpan,  strain  the  liquor  to  them,  add  a 
little  flour  and  butter,  stew  them  till  quite 
done ;  take  off  the  fat,  season  with  cayenne, 
fialt,  and  lemon-juice,  and  serve  the  whole 
in  a  deep  dish. 

JiARE  ROASTED,    Out  the  skin  from 


a  hare  that  has  been  well  soaked ;  put  it  on 
the  spit  and  rub  it  well  with  Madeu-a,  prick- 
ing it  in  various  places  tliat  it  may  imbibe 
plenty  of  wine;  cover  it  entirely  with  a 
paste,  and  roast  it.  When  done,  take  away 
the  paste,  rub  it  quickly  over  witli  eg^, 
sprinkle  bread-crumbs,  and  baste  it  gently 
with  butter  (still  keeping  it  turning  before 
the  fire)  until  a  crust  is  formed  over  it  and 
it  is  of  a  nice  brown  color;  dish  it  over 
some  espagnole  with  Madeira  wine  boiled 
in  it;  two  or  three  cloves  may  be  stuck  into 
the  knuckles  if  you  think  proper. 

HASHED  HARE.  Cut  up  the  hare 
into  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and  divide 
the  jotnts  of  the  legs  and  shoulders,  and  set 
them  by  ready.  Put  the  trimmings  and 
gra\'y  you  have  left,  witli  half  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter (there  should  be  a  pint  of  liquor),  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly,  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour:  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
into  a  basin,  and  pour  it  back  into  the  stew- 
pan ;  now  flour  the  hare,  put  it  into  the 
gravy,  and  let  it  simmer  very  gently  till  the 
hare  is  warm  (about  twenty  minutes) ;  cut 
the  stuffing  into  slices,  and  put  it  into  the 
hash  to  get  warm,  about  five  minutes  before 
you  serve  it ;  divide  the  head,  and  lay  one 
half  on  each  side  the  dish. 

HARICOT    BY    WAY    OF    SOUP. 

Cut  a  large  neck  of  mutton  into  two  pieces, 
put  the  scrag  into  a  stewpan  witli  a  quart 
of  water,  four  large  carrots,  and  turnips; 
boil  it  gently  over  a  slow  fire  till  all  the 
goodness  be  out  of  the  meat;  then  bruise 
the  vegetables  into  the  soup  to  thicken  it. 
Fry  six  onions  (sliced)  in  butter,  and  put 
the  other  part  of  die  meat  to  the  soup,  and 
stew  till  the  latter  is  tender;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  serve  it  very  hot  in  a 
tureen. 

HARICOT  MUTTON.  Cut  the  best 
end  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton,  that 
has  been  kept  till  tender,  into  chops  of 
equal  thickness,  one  rib  to  each ;  trim  off 
some  of  the  fat,  and  die  lower  end  of  the 
chine  bone,  and  scrape  it  clean,  and  lay 
them  in  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter ; 
set  it  over  a  smart  fire ;  if  your  fire  is  not 
sharp,  the  chops  will  be  done  before  they 
are  colored ;  the  intention  of  frying  them  la 
merely  to  give  them  a  very  light  browning. 

While  the  chops  are  browning,  peel  and 
l)oil  a  couple  of  dozen  of  young  button  onions 
in  about  three  pints  of  water  for  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes,  set  them  by,  and  pour  off 
the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in  into  the  stew- 
pan wiUi  die  chops:  if  that  is  not  sufficient 
to  cover  them,  add  as  much  boiling  water  as 
will  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises,   and  be 


HAT 


95 


HER 


<»reM  they  are  not  stewed  too  fast  or  too 
much ;  so  take  out  one  of  Uiem  witli  a  fish- 
slice, and  try  it:  when  they  are  tender, 
which  will  be  in  about  an  hoiur  and  a  half, 
then  pass  the  gravy  through  a  sieve  into  a 
basin,  set  it  in  the  open  air  that  it  may  get 
cold,  you  may  then  easily  and  completely 
skim  off  the  fax ;  in  the  meantime  set  the 
meat  and  vegetables  by  the  fire  to  keep  hot, 
and  pour  some  boiling  water  over  the  button 
onions  to  warm  them.  Have  about  six 
ounces  of  cari-ots,  and  eight  ounces  of  tur- 
nips, peeled  and  cut  into  slices,  or  shaped 
into  balls  about  as  big  as  a  nutmeg;  boil 
tlie  caiTots  about  half  an  houi',  the  turnips 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  put  them  on 
a  sieve  to  drain,  and  then  put  them  round 
the  dish,  the  last  thing. 

Thicken  die  gravy  by  putting  an  ounce  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan;  when  it  is  melted, 
stir  in  as  much  floiu-  as  will  stiffen  it ;  pour 
the  gravy  to  it  by  degrees,  stir  together  till 
it  boils;  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or 
tamis  into  a  stewjsan,  put  in  the  carrots  and 
turnips  to  get  waiin,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  while  you  dish  up  the  meat ;  lay  the 
chops  round  a  dish,  put  the  vegetables  in  the 
middle,  and  pour  the  thickened  gravy  over. 
Some  put  in  capers,  &c.  minced  gherkins, 
&c. 

Rump-steaks,  veal-cutlets,  and  beef-tails, 
make  excellent  dishes  dressed  in  the  like 
manner. 

HASH,  COLD.  Mince  a  nice  white 
piece  of  veal,  wash  and  core  some  anchovies ; 
take  some  pickled  oysters,  pickled  cucum- 
bers, and  a  lemon;  shred  and  mix  tl;em 
with  the  veal,  and  place  it  in  a  dish;  lay 
round  it  slices  of  veal,  fillets  of  anchovies, 
pickled  cucumbers  sliced,  whole  pickled 
oysters,  mushrooms  and  capers;  lettuces 
shred  small ;  pour  in  oil  and  vinegar,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve. 

HASHES,  MADE  DISHES,  STEWS, 
RAGOUTS,  SOUPS,  TO  WARM.     Put 

what  you  have  left  into  a  deep  hash-dish  or 
tureen;  when  you  want  it,  set  this  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  boiling  water:  let  it  stand  till  tlie 
contents  are  quite  warm. 

HATTERED  KIT.  (1)  Make  two 
quarts  of  new  milk  scalding  hot,  and  pour 
it  quickly  upon  four  quarts  of  fresh-made 
butter  milk,  after  which  it  must  not  be  stir- 
red; let  it  remain  till  cold  and  firm,  then 
take  off  the  top  part,  drain  it  in  a  hair  sieve, 
and  put  it  into  a  shape  for  half  an  hour.  It 
is  eaten  with  weam,  served  in  a  separate 
dish. 

HATTERED  KIT.  (2)  Put  into  the 
dish  it  is  to  be  served  in,  one-tliird  of  cream 


with  two-diifds  of  butter-milk,  add  a  little- 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  beat  it  well  togeth- 
er. Strew  over  it  a  little  pounded  cin- 
namon, and  let  it  stand  for  three  or  four 
hours. 

HAWTHORN    LIQUOR.      The    M\ 

blossoms  of  the  white  thorn  are  to  be  picked 
di-y  and  clean  from  die  leaves  and  stalks, 
and  as  much  put  into  a  large  bottle  as  it  will 
hold  lightly  without  pressing  down;  it  is 
then  to  be  filled  up  widi  French  brandy, 
and  allowed  to  stand  two  or  three  months, 
when  it  must  be  decanted  off",  and  sweetened 
with  clarified  sugar,  or  with  capillaire. 
Without  the  sweetening,  it  is  an  excellent 
seasoning  for  puddings  and  custards. 

HEDGEHOG  TO  MAKE.  Blanch 
two  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  beat  them  to 
a  paste  in  a  mortar,  moistening  occasionally 
with  Canary  and  oi*ange-flower  water  ;  beat 
the  yolks  of  twelve,  and  the  whites  of  seven 
eggs  with  a  pint  of  cream  and  some  powder 
sugar;  put  this  with  the  almond  paste  and 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
set  it  over  a  stove  and  keep  it  constantly 
stirring  till  sufficiently  firm  to  be  moulded 
into  the  shape  of  a  hedgehog:  stick  it  full 
of  blanched  almonds,  cut  lengthwise,  into 
slips,  and  place  it  in  a  dish;  beat  up  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  put  them  to  a  pint  of 
cream  (sweetened  to  the  taste) ;  stir  them 
over  a  slow  fire  till  hot,  then  pour  it  round 
the  hedgehog  and  let  it  stand:  when  cold, 
serve  it.  A  good  calf's-foot  jelly  may  be 
poured  round,  instead  of  the  cream,  if  pre- 
ferred. 

HERBS,  A  BUNCH  OF  SWEET,   Is 

made  up  of  parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  winter 
savory,  orange  and  lemon  diyme;  the  great- 
est proportion  of  parsley. 

HERBS,  SWEET.  These  in  cookei-y 
are  parsley,  chibbol,  rocambole,  winter  sa- 
vory, thyme,  bay-leaf,  basil,  mint,  borage, 
rosemary,  cress,  marigold,  marjoram,  &c. 
The  relishing  herbs  or  Ravigotte  are  tar- 
ragon, garden-cress,  chervil,  burnet,  civet, 
and  green  mustard. 

HERBS  TO  DRY,  SWEET  AND 
SAVORY.  It  is  very  important  to  those 
who  are  not  in  the  constant  habit  of  attend- 
ing the  markets  to  know  when  the  various 
seasons  commence  for  purchasing  sweet 
herbs. 

All  vegetables  are  in  tiie  highest  state 
of  perfection,  and  fullest  of  juice  and  flavor, 
just  before  they  begin  to  flower:  tlie  first 
and  last  crop  have  neither  the  fine  flavor, 
nor  the  perfume  of  those  which  are  gathered 
in  the  height  of  tlie  season ;  that  is,  when 


HER 


96 


HOG 


the  greater  part  of  the  crop  of  each  species 
is  ripe. 

Take  care  they  are  gathered  on  a  dry 
day,  by  which  means  they  will  have  a  bet- 
ter color  when  dried.  Cleanse  your  herbs 
well  from  dirt  and  dust ;  cut  off  the  roots ; 
separate  the  bunches  into  smaller  ones,  and 
dry  them  by  die  heat  of  a  stove,  or  in  a 
Dutch  oven  before  a  common  fire,  in  such  , 
quantities  at  a  time,  that  Uie  process  may  be 
speedily  finished ;  i.  e.  '  Kill  'era  quick,' 
says  a  great  t)otanist ;  by  this  means  their 
flavor  will  be  best  preserved:  there  can  be 
no  doubt  of  the  propriety  of  drying  herbs, 
&c.  hastily  by  the  aid  of  artificial  heat, 
rather  than  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  In  the 
application  of  ailificial  heat,  the  only  cau- 
tion requisite  is  to  avoid  bmning ;  and  of 
this  a  sufficient  test  is  afforded  by  the  pres- 
ervation of  die  color.  The  common  cus- 
tom is,  when  they  ai'e  perfectly  dried  to  put 
them  in  bags,  and  lay  them  in  a  diy  place; 
but  the  best  way  to  preserve  the  flavor  of 
aromatic  plants  is  to  pick  off  the  leaves  as 
soon  as  they  are  dried,  and  to  pound  them, 
and  put  tlieni  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  keep 
them  in  well-stopped  bottles.  The  common 
custom  is  to  put  them  into  paper  bags,  and 
lay  them  on  a  shelf  in  the  kitchen,  exposed 
to  all  die  fumes,  steam,  and  smoke,  &c.: 
thus  they  soon  lose  their  flavor. 

N.  B.  Herbs  nicely  dried  are  a  very  ac- 
ceptable substitute  when  fresh  ones  cannot 
be  got;  but,  however  carefully  dined,  the 
flavor  and  fragrance  of  the  fresh  herbs  are 
incomparably  finer. 

HERRINGS.  There  are  three  sorts  of 
herrings,  fresh,  salted,  and  dried  or  red  her- 
rings. They  are  emptied  and  cleaned  like 
any  other  fish;  when  fresh,  they  are  broiled, 
and  servied  with  melted  butler,  white  sauce, 
&c. 

The  salted  herring  should  l:>e  soaked  in 
cold  water  before  it  is  cooked ;  this  is  also 
broiled  ;  sometimes,  however,  it  is  cut  in 
pieces,  and  eaten  raw. 

The  red  herring  is  split  down  Uie  back, 
the  head  and  tail  are  cut  off,  and  the  fish 
broiled  like  die  odiers. 

They  may  also  be  dressed  as  follows: 
when  they  have  lain  in  cold  water  a  suffi- 
cient time,  soak  them  for  two  hours  in  milk, 
then  split  them  down  the  back ;  then  have 
ready  some  melted  butter,  in  which  has  Ijeen 
mixed  basil  and  bay-leaf,  minced  small,  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  pepper  and  nutmeg ;  nib 
die  herrings  well  widi  diis,  bread  them; 
broil  them  over  a  gentle  fire,  and  serve  with 
lemon-juice. 

The  best  red  herrings  are  full  of  roe, 
are  firm  and  large,  and  have  a  yellow 
cast. 

Of  die  fieah  herring  the  scales  are  bright 


if  good,  the  eyes  are  ftill,  and  the  gills  i«l, 
the  fish  also  should  be  stiff. 

HERRINGS,  BOILED.  Scale,  and 
otherwise  prepare  the  herrings  in  the  usual 
way  ;  drj-  them  well,  and  rub  them  over  with 
a  litde  salt  and  vinegar ;  skewer  dieir  tails 
in  their  mouths,  lay  diem  on  a  fish-plate,  and 
put  them  into  boiling  water;  in  ten  or 
twelve  minutes  take  diem  out,  drain  them, 
lay  them  on  the  dish,  the  heads  towards  die 
middle ;  serve  them  with  melted  butter  and 
parsley,  and  garnish  with  horseradish. 

HERRINGS,  RED.  Plain  broil  tiiem, 
or  pour  over  some  beer  made  hot,  and  when 
it  is  cold  drain  and  wipe  them  diy ;  heat 
them  thoroughly,  and  rub  o\'er  a  little  butter, 
and  sprinkle  them  with  pepper. 

HERRINGS  TO  BAKE.  They  must 
be  perfectly  fresh,  and  well  cleaned,  but  not 
washed ;  die  heads  and  fins  cut  ofl",  and  the 
bones  cut  out ;  strew  over  them  pc|)per,  salt, 
and  a  slice  of  onion  minced  veiy  finely,  to 
each ;  roll  diem  up  tight ;  pack  them  into  a 
jar,  and  poui*  over  in  the  proportion  of  a 
pint  of  vinegar  to  two  of  v  ater,  widi  half 
an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper ;  tie  over 
the  jar  a  piece  of  bladder  or  paper,  and 
bake  them  in  an  oven  for  an  hoiu-.  Take 
off  the  cover  when  diey  are  cold,  and  poui 
over  a  little  cold  vinegar,  and  tie  diem  up. 

HERRINGS  TO  FRY.  Scrape  off 
the  scales;  cut  off  the  fins;  draw  out  the 
gut,  keeping  in  the  roes  and  melts;  wipe 
dicm  in  a  clean  cloth;  dredge  them  widi 
flour,  and  fry  them  in  boiling  dripping;  put 
them  before  the  fire  to  drain  and  keep  hot. 
Sauces; — melted  butter,  and  parsley  and 
butter.  When  herrings  are  to  be  broiled, 
they  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner,  and 
done  upon  the  gridiron.  They  must  not  be 
washed. 

HIPPOCRAS.  Talie  one  ounce  of 
cinnamon,  two  drachms  of  ginger,  two  pen- 
ny-weights of  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  galangal 
a  penny-weight  of  each.  I'ound  these  to- 
gether well,  and  infuse  them  in  a  pint  of  red 
or  white  wine,  and  a  pint  of  malmsey ;  to 
this,  add  a  pound  of  the  best  loaf  sugar. 
These  proportions  will  make  a  quart  of 
the  liquor. 

HOG'S  HEAD.  Put  a  head  into  some 
pickle,  and  when  it  has  lain  sufficiently  long, 
take  it  out  and  boil  it  till  the  bones  will 
come  out  with  ease;  tiien  skin,  bone,  and 
chop  the  meat,  whilst  hot;  season  it  widi 
pepper  (black  and  white),  nutmeg,  and  salt, 
if  necessary;  lay  part  of  die  skin  at  the 
bottom  of  a  potting  pan,  press  in  the  meat. 


HUN 


97 


ICE 


cover  it  with  the  remainder  of  tlie  skin,  put 
on  a  weight,  and  let  it  stand  till  quite  cold. 
Then  turn  it  out.  Boil  the  liquor  it  was 
dressed  in  with  some  vinegar,  skini  it  well, 
,,  W<1  when  cold  put  the  head  into  it. 

HONEY  TO  CLARIFY.— M.  Fou- 
que's  method.  Take  six  pounds  of 
honey,  a  pound  and  three-quarters  of  water, 
two  ounces  and  a  quarter  of  pounded  chalk, 
five  ounces  of  coal,  (pulverised,  washed,  and 
well  dried),  the  whites  of  tiiree  eggs  beaten 
in  three  ounces  of  water,  for  each  pound  of 
honey. 

Put  the  honey,  water,  chalk,  and  eggs, 
into  a  copper  vessel,  capable  of  holding 
about  one-tliird  more  than  the  above  quanti- 
ties ;  let  them  boil  for  two  minutes,  throw 
in  the  coal,  mixing  it  with  a  spoon,  and 
continue  die  boiling  two  minutes  longer; 
then  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and 
let  it  stand  nearly  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  that 
the  liquor  may  cool ;  then  tiike  a  new  sieve 
(which  must  be  well  washed,  or  it  will  nn- 
part  a  disagreeable  taste),  pass  the  honey 
tlirough  it,  taking  care  to  filter  the  first 
drops  twice,  as  tliey  generally  carry  with 
them  some  portion  of  the  coal.         » 

The  sirup  which  still  adlieres  to  the  coal, 
and  other  materials,  may  be  separated  as 
follows:  pour  boiling  water  on  them  until 
they  no  longer  retain  any  sweetness;  then 
put  these  different  waters  together,  set  them 
over  a  lai'ge  fire  to  evaporate,  till  the  sirup 
only  remains.  This  sirup  contracts  the  fla- 
vor of  barley  sugai",  and  must  not  be  added 
to  the  clarified  honey. 

HORSERADISH  POWDER.      The 

time  to  make  diis  is  during  November  and 
December ;  slice  it  die  diickness  of  a  shil- 
ling, and  lay  it  to  diy  very  gradually  in  a 
Dutch  oven  (a  strong  heat  soon  evaporates 
its  flavor) ;  when  dry  enough,  pound  it  and 
bottle  it. 

HOT  PICKLE.  Boil,  in  two  quarts  of 
vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt,  two 
ounces  of  shallots  or  garlic,  and  two  of  gin- 
ger, one  ounce  of  pep|)er,  one  of  yellow  mus- 
tard seed,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
cayenne ;  put  into  a  jar  that  will  hold  foiu- 
quarts,  two  ounces  of  allspice,  and  pour  on 
it  tlie  hot  pickle.  When  cold,  put  in  any 
fresh-gathered  vegetables  or  fruit,  such  as 
asparagus,  cauliflower,  French  beans,  radisli 
pods,  uinipe  apples,  gooseberries,  currants, 
which  may  be  added  as  the  opportunity  of- 
fers, and,  as  the  pickle  wastes,  it  should  be 
replenished  with  tlie  suine  mixture. 

H-BONE  OF  BEEF.     See  Beef. 

HUNG  BEEF.     See  Beef. 
9 


HUNTING  BEEF.     See  Beef. 
HUNTER'S  PIE.     See  Irish  Stew. 


ICE.  Sorbetieres  or  moulds  for  cream 
or  fiuit-ices,  are  made  of  two  sorts  of  ma- 
terials, block-tin  and  pewter;  of  these,  the 
latter  is  tlie  best,  the  substance  to  be  iced 
congealing  more  gradually  in  it  than  in  the 
former;  an  object  much  to  be  desired,  as 
when  the  ice  is  formed  too  quickly,  it  is  very 
apt  to  be  rough,  and  full  of  lumps  like  hail, 
especially  if  it  be  not  well  worked  with  the 
spatula ;  tlie  other  utensils  necessai-y  for  this 
operation,  ai-e,  a  deep  pail,  with  a  cork  at 
the  bottom,  and  a  wooden  spatula  about 
nine  uiches  long ;  being  so  fai-  provided,  fill 
the  pail  with  pounded  ice,  over  which  spread 
four  handfuls  of  salt;  then  having  filled  the 
sorbetiere,  or  mould,  with  cream,  &c. ;  put 
on  the  cover,  and  immerse  it  in  the  centre 
of  die  ice-pail ;  taking  care  the  ice  touches 
the  mould  in  all  parts ;  dirow  in  two  more 
handfuls  of  salt,  and  leave  it  a  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  then  take  the  cover  from  die  mould, 
and  widi  die  spatula  stir  the  contents  up  to- 
gether, so  diat  diose  parts  which  touch  the 
sides  of  the  mould,  and  consequently  congeal 
first,  may  be  mixed  wiUi  the  liquid  in  the 
middle ;  work  this  about  for  seven  or  eigh^- 
minutes;  cover  the  mould,  take  the  pail  by 
the  ears,  and  shake  it  round  and  round  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  open  the  moidd  a  sec- ' 
ond  time,  and  stir  as  before ;  continue  these 
operations  alternately,  until  the  cream,  or 
whatever  it  may  be,  is  entirely  congealed, 
and  perfectly  smooth,  and  free  from  lumps. 
Take  care  to  let  out  tlie  water,  which  will 
collect  at  tlie  bottom  of  die  pail,  by  means 
of  die  cork,  and  press  the  ice  close  to  the 
sorbetiere  with  the  spatula. 

When  the  cream  is  iced,  take  it  from  the 
pail,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  but  not 
to  let  it  remain  an  instant;  dry  it  quickly, 
turn  it  out,  and  serve  it  as  soon  as  possible. 

All  sorts  of  ices  are  finished  in  this  man- 
ner ;  the  prepai-ation  of  the  articles  of  which 
diey  are  composed,  constitutes  the  only  dif- 
ference between  diem. 

ICE,  A  VERY  LARGE  CAKE.     Beat 

tlie  whites  of  twenty  fresh  eggs ;  then,  by 
degrees,  beat  a  [lound  of  double-refined  su- 
gar, sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve;  mix  diese 
well  in  a  deep  earthen  pan;  add  orange- 
flower  water,  and  a  piece  of  fresh  lemon- 
peel  ;  do  not  use  more  of  the  orange-flower 
water  than  is  just  suflicient  to  flavor  it. 
Whisk  it  for  diree  hours  till  die  mixture  is 
thick  and  white;  then, With  a  thin  broad 


ICI 


98 


IRI 


bit  of  board,  spread  it  all  over  the  top  and 
sides,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  oven,  and  an  hour 
will  harden  it. 

ICE  FOR  ICING  (HOW  to  pre- 
PARE).  Take  a  few  pounds  of  ice,  break 
it  almost  to  powder,  and  throw  in  among  it 
a  large  handful  and  a  half  of  salt ;  you  must 
prepare  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  house,  that 
as  little  of  the  warm  air  as  possible  may 
come.  The  ice  and  salt  lieing  in  a  bucket, 
put  your  cream  into  an  ice-pot,  and  cover  it ; 
immei-se  it  in  the  ice,  and  draw  that  round 
the  pot,  so  that  it  may  touch  every  part.  In 
a  few  minutes  put  a  spatula  or  spwon  in,  and 
stir  it  well,  removing  the  parts  that  ice  round 
the  edges  to  the  centre.  If  the  ice-cream  or 
water,  be  in  a  form,  shut  the  bottom  close, 
and  move  the  whole  in  the  ice,  as  you  can- 
not use  a  spoon  to  that  without  danger  of 
waste.  There  should  be  holes  in  the  buck- 
et, to  let  the  ice  off  as  it  thaws. 

ICING  FOR  CAKES.  For  a  large 
cake,  beat  and  sift  eight  ounces  of  fine  sugar, 
put  it  into  a  mortar,  with  four  spoonflils  of 
rose  water,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  and  strained,  whisk  it  well,  and 
when  the  cake  is  almost  cold,  dip  a  feather 
in  the  icing,  and  cover  the  cake  well ;  set  it 
in  the  oven  to  harden,  but  do  not  let  it  re- 
main long  enough  to  discolor.  Keep  the 
cake  in  a  dry  place. 

ICING  FOR  TARTS.  Beat  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  and  some  melted  butter  well  toge- 
ther; wash  the  tarts  with  a  feather,  and 
sift  sugar  over  as  you  put  them  into  the 
oven ;  or  beat  white  of  egg,  wash  the  paste, 
and  sift  white  sugar. 

ICING,    FOR     TWELFTH     OR     BRIDE 

CAKE.  Take  one  pound  of  double-refined 
sugar,  pounded  and  sifted  through  a  lawn 
sieve ;  put  into  a  pan  quite  free  from  grease ; 
break  in  die  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  as  much 
powder  blue  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence;  beat 
it  well  with  a  spattle  fur  ten  minutes ;  then 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  beat  it 
till  it  becomes  thick  and  transparent.  Set 
the  cake  you  intend  to  ice  in  an  oven  or 
wann  place  five  minutes ;  then  spread  over 
the  top  and  sides  with  the  mixture  as  smooth 
as  possible.  If  for  a  wedding  cake  only, 
plain  ice  it;  if  for  a  twelfth  cake,  ornament 
it  with  gum  paste,  or  fancy  articles  of  any 
description.  A  good  twelfth  cake,  not  bak- 
ed two  much,  and  kept  in  a  cool  dry  plac*, 
will  retain  its  moisture  and  eat  well,  if 
twelve  mondis  old. 

ICING     FOR     FRUIT    TARTS,     PUFFS, 

OR  PASTRY.  Beat  up  in  a  half-pint  mug 
the  white  of  two  eggs  to  a  solid  fi-oth ;  lay 


some  on  tlie  middle  of  the  pie  with  a  paste- 
brush  ;  sift  over  plenty  of  pounded  sugar,  and 
press  it  down  Avith  the  hand,  wash  out  the 
brush,  and  splash  by  degrees  widi  water  till 
tlie  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  put  it  in  the  oven 
for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  it  up  cold. 

IMPERIAL.  Put  two  ounces  of  cream 
of  tartar,  and  die  juice  and  peel  of  two  lem- 
ons, into  a  stone  jar,  pour  on  diem  seven 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  stir,  and  cover  close. 
AVhencold,  sweeten  it  widi  loaf  sugar,  strain 
it,  bottle  and  cork  it  tight.  Add  in  botding, 
half  a  pint  to  the  whole  quantity. 

INDIA  PICKLE.  (1)  Take  one  pound  of 
ginger,  put  it  into  a  pan  widi  salt  and  wa- 
ter, and  let  it  lay  all  night,  then  scrape  it, 
and  cut  it  into  thin  slices ;  put  it  into  a  pan 
with  half  a  pound  of  bay  salt,  and  let  it  lay 
till  all  the  following  ingredients  are  prepar- 
ed; a  pound  of  garlic  peeled,  and  laid  in 
salt  for  three  days,  then  take  it  out,  wash  it, 
then  let  it  lay  in  salt  for  another  three  days, 
dien  take  it  out  and  let  it  lay  in  the  sun  for 
another,  till  half  dry;  an  ounce  of  long  pep- 
per, an  ounce  of  capsicum,  salted  and  laid 
in  the  *in  for  diree  days,  a  pint  of  black 
mustard-seed  bruised,  half  an  ounce  of  tur- 
meric, beat  very  small ;  put  all  these  ingre- 
dients togedier  in  a  jar,  then  put  in  as  much 
vinegar,  as,  when  the  cabbage,  or  whatever 
you  intend  to  pickle,  is  put  into  it,  the  vine- 
gar will  rise  to  the  top  of  the  jar.  Then 
take  cabbage,  cauliflower,  or  whatever  you 
choose  to  pickle,  and  cut  them  into  small 
pieces,  throw  a  good  handful  of  salt  over 
them,  and  set  tliem  in  tlie  sun  (when  it  is 
very  hot)  for  three  days,  drain  the  water 
from  them  every  day,  and  fresh  salt  Uiem 
again,  turning  the  leaves  till  they  are  dry, 
then  put  them  into  the  pickle,  being  partic- 
ular that  they  are  completely  covered  wiUi 
the  vinegar;  tie  it  up  close,  let  it  stand  a 
fortnight,  fill  it  again  with  more  vinegar, 
carefiilly  watch  it  from  time  to  time,  to  fill 
it  uji  wiUi  vinegar,  as  it  will  waste  very  fiist. 

INDIA  PICKLE.  (2)  OnegaUon  of  vin- 
egar, one  pound  of  gailic,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  long  pepper  split,  half  a  pound  of 
flour  of  mustard,  one  pound  of  ginger  scrap- 
ed, and  split,  and  two  ounces  of  turmeric. 
When  you  have  prepared  die  spice,  and  put 
it  into  the  jar,  pour  die  vinegar  boiling  hot 
over  it,  and  stir  it  every  day  for  a  week. 
Then  put  in  your  cabbage,  cauliflower,  or 
whatever  you  intend  to  pickle. 

INDIAN  CURRY.     See  Curry. 

IRISH  PUFFS.  Add  to  five  well- 
beaten  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs,  a  large 
table-spoonfiil  of  flour,  not  quite  an  ounce  of 


ISI 


99 


JAM 


melted  butter,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ; 
beat  it  all  well  foi-  ten  minutes,  and  add  half 
a  pint  of  cream;  bake  it  in  buttered  tea- 
cups ;  turn  them  out,  £uid  sen'e  them  with  a 
Bweet  sauce. 

IRISH  ROCK.  Blanch  a  pound  of 
sweet  and  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  pick 
out  a  few  of  the  sweet  almonds,  and  cut 
them  like  straws,  and  blanch  them  in  rose 
water ;  pound  the  rest  in  a  mortar  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  brandy,  four  ounces  of 
pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  half  a 
pound  of  salt  butter  well  washed;  pound 
them  till  the  mass  looks  very  white,  and  set 
it  in  a  cool  place  to  stiffen ;  tlien  dip  two 
table-spoons  into  cold  water,  and  with  them 
form  the  paste,  as  much  like  an  egg  as  pos- 
sible; place  in  tlie  bottom  of  a  glass  dish,  a 
small  plate  or  saucer  turned,  and  lay  the 
rock  high  up;  stick  ovei-  it  the  cut  almonds 
with  green  sweetmeats,  and  ornament  witli 
a  sprig  of  myrtle. 

IRISH  STEW,  OR  HUNTER'S  Pie. 

Take  part  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  cut  it  into 
chops,  season  it  well,  put  it  into  a  stewpan, 
let  it  brase  for  half  an  houi',  take  two  dozen 
of  jjotatoes,  boil  diem,  mash  tliem,  and  sea- 
son them,  butter  your  mould,  and  line  it  with 
the  potatoes, put  in  the  mutton,  bake  it  for 
half  an  hour,  then  it  will  be  done,  cut  a  hole 
in  tlie  top,  and  add  some  good  gravy  to  it. 

IRISH  STEW.  Take  five  thick  mut- 
ton chops,  or  two  pounds  off  the  neck  or 
loins;  two  pounds  of  potatoes;  peel  them, 
and  cut  them  in  halves ;  six  onions,  or  half 
a  pound  of  onions ;  peel  and  slice  them  also : 
fii-st  put  a  layer  of  potatoes  at  the  bottom  of 
your  stewpan,  then  a  couple  of  chops  and 
some  of  the  onions ;  then  again  potatoes,  and 
60  on,  till  the  pan  is  quite  ilill ;  a  small 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  about  one 
and  a  half  of  salt,  and  three  gills  of  broth  or 
gravy,  and  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  mushroom 
ketchup;  cover  all  very  close  in,  so  as  to 
prevent  the  steam  from  getting  out,  and  let 
them  stew  for  an  hour  and  a  half  on  a  very 
slow  iive.  A  small  slice  of  ham  is  a  great 
addition  to  tliis  dish.  The  cook  will  be  the 
best  judge  when  it  is  done,  as  a  great  deal 
depends  on  the  fire  you  have.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  let  it  burn,  and  that  it 
does  not  do  too  fast. 

ISINGLASS,  TO  CLARIFY.  Take 
an  ounce  and  quarter  of  the  best  isinglass, 
cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and  wash  tliem  sev- 
eral times  in  warm  water.  Put  the  isinglass 
into  a  preserving  pan,  with  five  glasses  of 
filtered  water,  set  it  on  tlie  fii-e,  and,  as  soon 
as  it  boils,  place  it  at  tlie  side  of  the  stove, 
so  as  to  keep  up  the  boiling ;  take  off  the 


scum  directly  it  rises ;  and  when  the  whole 
is  reduced  to  three-quarters,  strain  it  through 
a  cloth  into  a  basin  for  use.  Some  add,  in 
clarifying  isinglass,  lemon-peel,  to  remove 
its  disagreeable  taste ;  but  as  good  isinglass 
ought  to  have  no  flavor,  and  as  tlie  lemon- 
peel  is  certain  to  give  a  yellow  tinge  to  Uiat, 
it  is  much  better  left  out. 

ITALIAN  CHEESE.  Mix  widi  near- 
ly half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the 
juice  of  three  lemons,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  white  wine,  and  a  quart  of  cream ;  beat 
it  with  a  whisk  till  quite  thick,  which  may 
be  in  half  an  hour ;  put  a  bit  of  muslin  into 
a  hair  sieve,  and  pour  in  die  cream.  In 
twelve  hours  turn  it  out,  and  garnish  it  with 
flowers.  It  may  be  put  into  a  tin  shape, 
with  holes  in  it. 

ITALIAN  MACAROONS.  Take,  one 
pound  of  Valentia  or  Jordan  almonds,  blanch- 
ed, pound  them  quite  fine  with  tlie  whites 
of  four  eggs ;  add  two  pounds  and  a  half  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  rub  them  well  togeth- 
er with  the  pesth ;  put  in  by  degrees  about 
ten  or  eleven  more  whites,  working  diem 
well  as  you  put  them  in ;  but  the  best  crite- 
rion to  go  by  in  tiying  their  lightness  is  to 
bake  one  or  two,  and  if  you  find  them  heavy, 
put  one  or  two  more  whites ;  put  the  mix- 
ture into  a  biscuit-funnel,  and  lay  them  out 
on  wafer-paper,  in  pieces  about  die  size  of  a 
small  walnut,  having  ready  about  two  oiuices 
of  blanched  and  dry  almonds  cut  into  slips, 
put  diree  or  four  pieces  on  each,  and  bake 
them  on  wires,  or  a  baking-plate,  in  a  slow 
oven.  Obs. — ^Almonds  should  be  blanched 
and  dried  gi-adually  two  or  three  days  be- 
fore they  are  used,  by  which  means  they 
wiU  work  much  better,  and  where  large 
quantities  ai'e  used,  it  is  advised  to  grind 
tliera  in  a  mill  provided  for  that  puipose. 


JAM,  APRICOT.  (1)  Weigh  equal 
quantities  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  and  of  ap- 
ricots ;  pare  and  cut  them  quite  small ;  as 
they  are  done,  strew  over  half  of  the  sugar. 
The  following  day  boil  the  remainder,  and 
add  the  apricots ;  stir  it  till  it  boib,  take 
oft"  die  scum,  and  when  {perfectly  clear,  add 
part  of  die  kernels  blanched,  and  boil  it 
two  or  three  minutes. 

JAM,  APRICOT.  (2)  Allow,  equal 
proportions  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  and  of 
apricots ;  pare,  and  cut  diem  small ;  as  they 
are  done,  strew  part  of  llie  sugar  over  them, 
and  put  the  parings  into  cold  water.  Break 
the  stones,  blanch  and  ponnd  the  kernels* 


JAM 


100 


JEL 


which,  with  tlie  shells  and  parings,  boil  till 
halftlie  quantity  of  water  is  reduced,  and 
there  is  a  sufficiency  of  the  liquor,  when 
strained,  to  allow  three  or  four  table-spoon- 
fuls to  a  pound  of  apricots ;  put  it,  with  tiie 
sugar  and  fruit,  into  a  preserving  pan ;  mash, 
and  take  off  tlie  scum  ;  boil  it  quickly,  till 
transparent. 

JAM,  APRICOT,  OR  ANY  PLUM. 

After  taking  away  the  stones  from  the  apri- 
cots, afld  cutting  out  any  blemishes  they 
may  have ;  put  them  over  a  slow  fire,  in  a 
clean  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water; 
when  scalded,  rub  them  through  a  hair 
sieve:  to  eveiy  pound  of  pulp  put  one  pound 
of  sifted  loaf  sugar ;  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  it  boils 
skim  it  well,  and  throw  in  the  kernels  of 
tile  apricots,  and  half  an  ounce  of  bitter  al- 
monds, blanched;  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  fast,  and  stirring  it  all  the  time ;  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  and  fill  it  into  pots, 
and  cover  them  as  directed  in  Raspbeny 
Jam.  N.  B. — Green  gages  or  plums  may 
be  done  in  the  same  way,  omitting  the  ker- 
nels or  almonds. 

JAM,  BLACK  CURRANT.  Gather 
your  currants  on  a  dry  day,  when  they  are 
full  ripe,  pick  them  from  the  stalks,  wash 
them  well  in  a  basin,  and  to  every  pound 
of  currants,  put  a  pound  of  double  refined 
sugar,  beaten  and  sifted;  put  them  into  a 
preserving  pan,  boil  them  half  an  hour,  skim, 
and  keep  them  stirring  all  tlie  time:  then 
put  tliem  into  pots:  when  cold,  put  brandy 
paper  over,  and  tie  white  paper  over  all. 

JAM,  CHERRY.  Having  stoned  and 
boiled  three  pounds  of  fine  cherries,  bruise 
them,  and  let  the  juice  run  fi'om  them;  then 
boil  together  half  a  pound  of  red  currant 
juice,  and  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  put 
the  cherries  into  these  whilst  they  are  boil- 
ing, and  strew  on  them  tliree-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sifted  sugar.  Boil  all  together  vei-y 
fast  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  put  it  into 
pots.     When  cold  put  on  brandy  papers. 

JAM,  GOOSEBERRY.  Take  what 
quantity  you  please  of  red,  rough,  ripe  goose- 
berries ;  take  half  their  quantity  of  lump  su- 
gar; break  them  well,  and  boil  them  to- 
gether for  half  an  hour,  or  more  if  necessa- 
ry.    Put  it  into  pots,  and  cover  with  paper. 

JAM,  Gooseberry,  for  Puddings. 
Allow  equal  weight  of  the  red  rough  goose- 
berries, and  of  good  brown  sugar;  gather 
the  fruit  upon  a  dry  day ;  top  and  tail  them, 
and  put  a  layer  alternately  of  gooselierries 
and  of  sugar  into  a  preserving  pan ;  shake 
it  frequently,  skim  it  well,  and  boil  it  till 


the  sirup  jellies,  which  may  be  ascertained 
by  cooling  a  little  in  a  saucer.  Black  and 
red  currants  may  be  done  in  this  way  for 
common  use. 

JAM,  PEACH.  Gather  the  peaches 
when  quite  ripe,  peel  and  stone  them,  put 
tliem  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  mash  them 
over  the  fire  till  hot;  rub  them  through  a 
sieve,  and  add  to  a  pound  of  pulp  the  same 
weight  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and  pound- 
ed ;  let  it  boil  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  stir 
and  skim  it  well. 

JAM,  RASPBERRY.  Weigh  equal 
proportions  of  poimded  loaf  sugar  and  of 
raspberries ;  put  the  fruit  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  and  with  a  silver  spoon  bruise  and 
mash  it  well ;  let  boil  six  minutes ;  add  tlie 
sugar,  and  stir  it  well  with  the  fruit ;  when 
it  boils,  skim  it,  and  boil  it  for  fifteen  min- 


JAM,  STRAWBERRY.  GaUier  the 
scarlet  strawberries  when  perfectly  ripe, 
bruise  tliem  well,  and  add  the  juice  of  other 
strawberries ;  take  an  equal  weight  of  liunp 
sugar,  pound  and  sift  it,  stii-  it  thoroughly 
into  the  fruit,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire ;  boil 
it  twenty  minutes,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises ;  pour  it  into  glasses,  or  jars,  and  when 
cold,  tie  tliem  down. 

JAM,  WHITE  OR  RED  CURRANT. 

Pick  the  fruit  very  nicely,  and  allow  an 
equal  quantity  of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar ; 
put  a  layer  of  each  altemately  into  a  preserv- 
ing pan,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes ;  or  they 
may  be  boiled  the  same  length  of  time  in 
sugar  previously  clarified  and  boiled  candy 
high. 

JAUNE  MANGE.  Boil  an  oimce  of 
isinglass  in  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water 
till  melted ;  strain  it,  then  add  the  juice  of 
two  Seville  oranges,  a  quartei"  of  a  pint  of 
white  wine,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  beaten 
and  strained ;  sugar  according  to  taste ;  stir 
it  over  a  gentle  fire  till  it  just  boils  up:  when 
cold,  put  it  into  a  mould,  taking  care,  if 
there  should  happen  to  be  any  sediment,  not 
to  pour  it  in. 

JELLY.  To  a  quart  of  the  stock  jelly 
put  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  poiuided,  a 
stick  or  two  of  cinnamon  broken  into  small 
bits,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  a  pint  of  currant 
wine,  and  one  of  Sherry  or  Tenerifte,  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  five  eggs;  put  it  all  into  a 
nicely-cleaned  saucepan,  stir  it  gently  till  it 
boils,  and  boil  it  for  three  or  four  minutes. 
Pour  it  into  a  jelly -bag,  witli  a  Ijasin  or  mug 
placed    underneath;     run    it    immediate^ 


JEL 


101 


JEL 


through  the  bag  again  into  anothei'  basin, 
and  repeat  this  till  it  begins  to  drop.  It 
will  then  be  as  transparent  as  possible,  and 
may  be  put  into  moulds  or  glasses.  When 
all  has  apparently  dripped,  pour  about  a 
pint  of  boiling  wat*^'  into  the  bag,  whioii 
will  produce  a  little  thin  jelly  fit  to  drink ; 
the  stand  with  the  jelly-bag  should  be  plac- 
ed near  to  the  fire ;  Sherry  alone,  or  Tene- 
rifFe,  may  be  used.  The  jelly  may  be  put 
into  quart  bottles  corked  tightly,  which  will 
make  it  keep  good  for  some  weeks ;  place 
the  bottle  in  warm  water  when  it  is  requir- 
ed for  use. 

JELLY,  ALE  OR  PORTER.  For  a 
large  shape,  put  to  tlie  prepared  stock  or 
jelly,  more  than  half  a  bottle  of  strong  ale 
or  porter,  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  the  peel  of 
one,  and  tlie  juice  of  four  large  lemons,  a 
stick  of  cinnamon,  and  the  beaten  whites  of 
eight  eggs;  put  it  all  into  a  saucepan,  stir 
it  gently ;  let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
pour  it  into  a  jelly-bag  till  it  runs  perfectly 
clear. 

JELLY,  APPLE.  (1)  Pare,  core,  and 
cut  thirteen  good  apples  into  small  bits ;  as 
they  are  cut,  tiirow  tliem  into  two  quarts 
of  cold  water;  boil  them  in  this,  with  the 
peel  of  a  lemon,  till  llie  substance  is  ex- 
tracted, and  nearly  half  the  liquor  wasted ; 
drain  them  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  to  a 
pint  of  the  liquid  add  one  pound  of  loaf  su- 
gar pounded,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  one  or  two  eggs ;  put  it  into 
a  saucepan,  stir  it  till  it  boils,  take  off  the 
Bcum,  and  let  it  boil  till  clear,  and  then  pour 
it  into  a  mould. 

JELLY,  APPLE.  (2)  Pare  and  mince 
three  dozen  of  juicy  acid  apples,  put  them 
into  a  pan,  cover  them  with  water,  and  boil 
them  till  very  soft;  strain  them  through  a 
thin  cloth  or  flannel  bag ;  allow  a  {Xtund  of 
loaf  sugar  to  a  pint  of  juice ;  clarify  and 
boil  it;  add  the  apple  juice,  with  the  grated 
peel  and  juice  of  six  lemons;  boil  it  for 
twenty  minutes ;  take  off  die  scum  as  it  rises. 

JELLY,  APPLE.  (3)  Pare  and  cut 
into  slices  eighteen  large  acid  apples ;  boil 
them  in  as  much  water  as  will  cover  them; 
when  quite  soft,  dip  a  coarse  cloth  into  hot 
water,  wring  it  dry,  and  stmin  the  apples 
through  it ;  to  each  pint  of  juice  allow  four- 
teen ounces  of  fine  loaf  sugar,  clai-ify  it,  and 
add,  with  the  apple  juice,  the  peel  of  a  large 
lemon  ;  boil  it  till  it  jellies,  which  may  be  in 
twenty  minutes;  pick  out  the  lemon  peel, 
and  immediately  put  it  into  jars. 

JELLY,  APRICOT.    Take  eighteen  fine 
apricots,  let  tliem  be  of  a  nice  red  color, 
9* 


stone  them,  and  cut  them  in  pieces  into  some 
simp,  (usually  made  with  twelve  ounces  of 
sugar,  but  for  apricot  jelly  it  should  be 
rather  moie  liquid  than  for  otlier  jellies.) 
When  the  fmit  is  done  put  it  into  a  napkin, 
to  express  out  all  the  juice  you  possibly  can ; 
M'hich  you  must  add  to  the  sirup  in  which 
the  apricots  have  been  done,  and  which  has 
been  previously  strained  through  a  silk  sieve, 
and  after  having  mixed  with  it  a  proper 
quantity  of  isinglass  to  tliicken  it,  finish  the 
same  as  all  other  jellies. 

JELLY,  ARROW-ROOT.  Steep  for 
some  hours,  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water, 
the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  tliree  or  foiu-  bitter 
almonds  pounded;  strain,  and  mix  it  with 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  arrow-root,  the  same 
quantity  of  lemon-juice,  and  one  of  brandy; 
sweeten,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  quite 
thick,  and  when  quite  cold,  put  it  into  jelly 
glasses. 

JELLY,  BARBERRY.  (1)  Pick  a 
pint  of  barberries,  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  boiling  water,  cover  it  close  and 
let  it  stand  till  neaily  cold.  Set  on  tlie  fire 
some  clarified  sugar  with  a  little  water, 
(making  a  quart  together ; )  when  it  begins 
to  boil,  skim  it  well,  put  in  the  barberries, 
let  them  boil  an  hour ;  squeeze  the  juice  of 
three  lemons  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  to 
tliis,  pass  tlie  liquor  from  the  barberries,  and 
then  tile  isinglass. 

JELLY,  BARBERRY.  (2)  Take  some 
very  ripe  barberries  (what  quantity  you 
please)  and  before  you  seed  diem  take  two 
thirds  of  their  weight  in  sugar.  Boil  your 
sugar,  then  put  your  barberries  into  it,  and 
give  the  whole  a  few  boilings,  then  pass  it 
through  a  silk  sieve  into  a  pan,  pressing  the 
barberries  with  a  spoon  to  extract  as  much 
juice  as  possible  from  them ;  this  done,  put  it 
again  over  the  fire,  and  when  you  jjerceive 
it  begins  to  form  the  scum,  take  it  off  and 
pour  it  into  pots. 

JELLY,  BREAD  FOR  AN  INVALID. 
Cut  the  crum  of  a  penny  roll  into  thin  slices, 
and  toast  them  equally  of  a  pale  brown ;  boil 
them  gently  in  a  quart  of  water  till  it  will 
jelly,  which  may  be  known  by  putting  a 
little  in  a  spoon  to  cool ;  strain  it  upon  a 
bit  of  lemon-peel,  and  sweeten  it  with  sugar. 
A  little  wine  may  be  added. 

JELLY  BROTH.     See  Broth. 

JELLY,  CALF'S  FEET.  (1)  Take 
four  feet,  slit  them  in  two,  take  away 
tlie  fat  from  lietween  the  claws,  wash  them 
well  in  lukewarm  water;  then  put  them  in 
a  large  stewpan,  and  cover  them  with  water: 


JEL 


102 


JEL 


when  the  liquor  boils,  skim  it  Avell,  and  let 
it  boil  gently  six  or  seven  hours,  that  it  may 
be  reduced  to  about  two  quarts ;  then  strain 
it  through  a  sieve,  and  skim  off  all  the  oily 
substance  which  is  on  tlie  surface  of  the 
liquor. 

If  you  are  not  in  a  hurry,  it  is  better  to 
boil  the  calf's  feet  the  day  before  you  make 
the  jelly;  as  when  die  liquor  is  cold,  the 
oily  part  being  at  the  top,  and  the  other  be- 
ing firm,  with  pieces  of  kitchen  paper  appli- 
ed to  it,  you  may  remove  every  particle  of 
the  oily  substance,  witliout  wasting  any  of 
the  liquor. 

Put  the  liquor  in  a  stewpan  to  melt,  with 
a  pound  of  lump  sugar,  the  peel  of  two  lem- 
ons, the  juice  of  six,  six  whites  and  shells  of 
eggs  beat  together,  and  a  bottle  of  Sherry  or 
Madeira;  whisk  the  whole  together  until  it  is 
on  the  boil ;  dien  put  it  by  tlie  side  of  the 
stove,  and  let  it  simmer  a  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag :  what  is 
strained  first  must  be  poured  into  the  bag 
again,  until  it  is  as  bright  and  as  clear  as 
rock-water ;  then  put  the  jelly  in  moulds,  to 
be  cold  and  firm :  if  the  weather  is  too  wai'm, 
it  requires  some  ice. 

When  it  is  wished  to  be  very  stiff,  half  an 
ounce  of  isinglass  may  be  added  when  tlie 
wine  is  put  in. 

It  may  be  flavored  by  the  juice  of  various 
fiiiits,  spices,  &c.  and  colored  with  saf- 
firon,  cochineal,  red  beet  juice,  spinage  juice, 
claret,  &c. ;  and  it  is  sometimes  made  with 
cherry  brandy,  or  noyeau  rouge,  or  Curacoa, 
or  essence  of  punch,  instead  of  wine. 

JELLY,  CALF'S  FEET.  (2)  Take 
the  fat  and  bones  from  eight  feet,  and  soak 
them  in  water  for  tliree  or  four  hours; 
then  boil  them  in  six  quarts  of  water,  skim- 
ming often ;  when  reduced  to  a  third,  strain 
and  set  it  by  to  cool ;  when  cold,  take  every 
particle  of  fat  from  the  top,  and  remove 
whatever  may  have  settled  at  the  bottom. 
Dissolve  it  in  an  earthen  pan,  adding  to  it 
two  quarts  of  white  wine,  mace,  cinnamon, 
and  ginger,  or  not,  as  you  please.  Beat  up 
the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  with  three  pounds 
of  fine  sugar,  mix  these  with  tlie  jelly,  boil  it 
gently,  adding  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and 
then  strain  it  for  use. 

JELLY,  CHERRY.  Take  the  stones 
and  stalks  from  two  pounds  of  fine  clear 
ripe  cherries ;  mix  them  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  red  currants,  from  which  the 
seeds  have  been  extracted;  express  the 
juice  from  these  ti-uits,  filter  and  mix  it  with 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  clarified  sugar, 
and  one  ounce  of  isinglass.  Finish  the  same 
as  Barberry  jelly. 

JELLY  OF  CURRANTS,  GRAPE, 


RASPBERRY,  Are  all  made  precisely 
in  the  same  manner.  When  the  fruit  is  full 
ri|5e,  gather  it  on  a  dry  day:  as  soon  as  it 
is  nicely  picked,  put  it  into  a  jar,  and  covei" 
it  down  very  close. 

Set  die  jar  in  a  saucepan  about  diree 
parts  filled  with  cold  water ;  put  it  on  a  gen- 
tle fire,  and  let  it  simmer  for  about  half  an 
hour.  Take  die  pan  fiom  the  fire,  and  pour 
the  contents  of  the  jar  into  a  jelly-bag:  pass 
the  juice  dirough  a  second  timej  do  not 
squeeze  the  bag. 

To  each  pint  of  juice  add  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  very  good  lump  sugar  pounded ;  when 
it  is  dissolved,  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan ; 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently ;  stirring 
and  skimming  it  the  whole  time  (about  thir- 
ty or  forty  minutes),  i.  e.  till  no  more  scum 
rises,  and  it  is  perfectly  clear  and  fine: 
pour  it  while  warm  into  pots;  and  when 
cold,  cover  diem  with  paper  wetted  in 
brandy. 

Half  a  pint  of  this  jelly,  dissolved  in  a 
pint  of  brandy  or  vinegar,  will  give  you  ex- 
cellent currant  or  raspberry  brandy  or  vine- 
gar. 

Obs. — Jellies  from  other  fruits  are  made 
in  the  same  way,  and  cannot  be  preserved 
in  perfection  without  plenty  of  good  sugar. 

Those  who  wish  jelly  to  tuni  out  very  stiff, 
dissolve  isinglass  in  a  little  water,  sti-ain 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  in  the  proportion 
of  half  an  ounce  to  a  pint  of  juice,  and  put 
it  in  with  the  sugar. 

The  liest  way  is  the  cheapest.  Jellies 
made  witli  two  small  a  proportion  of  sugar, 
re(]uire  boiling  so  long;  there  is  much  more 
waste  of  juice  and  flavor  by  evaporation  than 
the  due  (juantity  of  sugar  costs ;  and  they 
neidier  look  nor  taste  half  so  well. 

JELLY,  DAMSON.  To  eight  pounds 
of  damsons,  put  eight  pounds  of  fine  sugar, 
and  half  a  pint  of  water;  boil  lliem  for  half 
an  hour  over  a  gentle  fire,  till  the  skins 
break ;  then  take  them  off,  and  set  them  by 
for  an  hour ;  set  them  on  the  fire  again,  tor 
half  an  hour  more ;  set  them  by  again  for 
the  same  time;  do  so  the  third  time;  while 
they  stand  ofl"  the  fire,  put  a  weight  upon 
them  to  keep  them  under  die  sirup.  The 
last  time,  you  must  Ixul  them  till  you  per- 
ceive they  are  of  a  vei-y  high  color  in  the 
part  where  the  skin  is  broken;  then  take 
them  oft",  set  them  by  to  cool,  and  when  they 
are  cold,  drain  oft'  the  sirup,  and  make  the 
jelly  in  thefidlowing  manner: — Boil  a  quan- 
tity of  green  apples,  gi-een  gooseberries,  and 
quince  cxires,  to  a  mash;  then  strain  them 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Take  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  this  jelly  and  the  former  sirup,  and 
lx)il  them  over  a  gentle  fire  together  till  they 
jelly;  skim  it  well,  and  while  it  is  hot,  put 
i  it  into  glasses  or  puts. 


JEL 


103 


JEL 


JELLY  FOR  ENTRE3IETS.  Harts- 
horn,  calPs  feet,  and  isinglass,  are  the  usual 
materials  used  to  coagulate  sweet  jellies ;  of 
these  three,  the  latter  is  the  best,  as,  when 
properly  clarified,  (for  which  see  isinglass), 
it  is  tlie  clearest,  and  has  no  unpleasant 
flavor. 

JELLY  FRUIT.  Clarify  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  but  the  instant  before  it  is  quite 
clear,  put  in  a  small  quantity  of  cochineal ; 
then  strain,  and  mix  with  it  an  ounce  of 
clarified  isinglass,  and  the  juice  of  two  lem- 
ons; add  to  this  tlie  fnut  of  which  your  jel- 
ly is  to  be  composed;  stir  them  togetiier 
lightly,  pour  the  jelly  into  a  mould  quickly, 
and  put  the  mould  on  ice.  Observe  that  the 
sugar  and  isinglass  should  be  no  more  than 
lukewarm  when  mixed  together.  These 
jellies  may  lie  made  of  any  kind  of  fruit,  or 
the  grated  rinds  of  lemon,  orange,  or  ce- 
drats. 

JELLY,  GLOUCESTER.  Take  an 
ounce  of  rice,  the  same  of  sago,  pearl-barley, 
hartshorn-shavings,  and  eringo  root;  sim- 
mer with  three  pints  of  water,  till  reduced 
to  one  pint,  strain  it.  When  cold  it  will  be 
a  jelly ;  when  you  use  it,  serve  dissolved  in 
wine,  milk,  or  broth. 

JELLY,  GRAPE.  Take  out  the  stones, 
then  mash  the  grapes  with  your  hands,  (they 
must  be  ripe)  then  squeeze  them  through  a 
cloth  to  extract  all  the  juice  from  them,  and 
boil  and  finish  the  same  as  cui*rant  jelly. 
Use  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of 
fruit. 

JELLY,  HARTSHORN.  Boil  half  a 
pound  of  hartshorn  shavings  for  three  hours 
and  a  half  in  four  pints  and  a  half  of  water ; 
strain  it  through  a  bit  of  muslin,  and  stir  in- 
to it  three  ounces  of  dissolved  isinglass  ;  if 
large,  the  peel  of  one,  if  small,  of  two  lem- 
ons, and  their  juice,  half  the  peel  of  an  or- 
ange, three  parts  of  a  tea-cupful  of  brandy, 
and  one  of  white  wine ;  sweeten  with  pound- 
ed loaf  sugar,  and  when  lukewarm  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  with  the  beaten  whites  of 
six  eggs ;  stir  it,  and  let  it  boil  for  two  min- 
utes ;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag  two  or 
three  times  till  perfectly  clear. 

JELLY,  ORANGE.  (l)Squeezethe  juice 
of  eight  oranges  and  six  lemons,  grate  the 
peel  of  half  the  fruit,  and  steep  it  in  a  pint 
of  cold  water;  mix  it  with  the  juice,  tlu-ee- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  one  ounce 
and  a  quarter  of  isinglass,  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  seven  eggs ;  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  it  till  it  boils  ;  let  it  boil  a  few 
minutes,  and  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag  till 
clear ;  put  it  into  a  mould  or  glasses. 


JELLY,  ORANGE.  (2)  Boil  in  a 
pint  of  water  one  ounce  and  a  (|uarter  of 
picked  isindass,  the  rind  of  an  orange  cut 
thin,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  a  few  corianders, 
and  three  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  till  the  isin- 
glass is  dissolved ;  then  squeeze  two  Seville 
oranges  or  lemons,  and  enough  oranges  to 
make  a  pint  of  juice  :  mix  all  togedier,  and 
strain  it  througli  a  tamis  or  lawn  sieve  into 
a  basin  ;  set  it  in  a  cold  place  for  half  an 
hour ;  pour  it  into  another  basin  free  from 
sediment ;  and  when  it  begins  to  congeal, 
fill  your  mould  :  when  wanted,  dip  the 
mould  into  lukewarm  water  ;  turn  it  out  on 
a  dish,  and  garnish  with  orange  or  lemon 
cut  in  slices,  and  placed  round,  N.  B. — A 
few  grains  of  saffron  put  in  the  water  will 
add  much  to  its  appearance. 

JELLY,  OX-HEEL.  Slit  them  in  two, 
and  take  away  the  fat  between  the  claws. 
The  proportion  of  water  to  each  heel  is 
about  a  cjuart:  let  it  simmer  gently  for  eight 
hours  (keeping  it  clean  skinmied);  it  will 
make  a  pint  and  a  half  of  strong  jelly,  which 
is  frequently  used  to  make  calf's  feet  jelly, 
or  to  add  to  mock  turtle  and  otlior  soups. 

JELLY,  PEACH.  Cut  ten  or  twelve 
peaches  in  halves,  take  out  the  stones  and 
peel  them ;  set  a  pint  of  smooth  clarified  su- 
gar, diluted  with  water,  on  the  fire ;  when 
it  has  boiled  and  been  skimmed,  put  in  tlie 
peaches,  the  kernels  should  be  broken  and 
put  in  with  them ;  let  them  boil,  very  gently 
for  ten  minutes,  then  take  out  four  or  five 
of  the  halves,  and  lay  them  on  a  plate  to  be 
in  readiness  for  garnishing  the  jelly;,  let 
the  remainder  of  the  peaches  boil  for  ten 
minutes  longer;  while  they  are  boiling  take 
three  lemons,  cut  ofiT  the  rind,  squeeze  tlie 
juice  through  a  silk  sieve  in  a  basin,  pass 
the  li(iuor  of  the  peaches  into  it,  and  then 
the  isinglass,  running  it  through  die  sieve 
two  or  three  times,  in  order  to  mix  it  well; 
fill  die  mould  half  full  of  jelly,  and  when  set, 
put  in  the  peaches  and  a  little  more  jelly, 
and  when  that  is  set,  fill  up  the  mould. 
The  reason  why  the  lemons  are  peeled  be- 
fore they  are  squeezed  for  this  jelly  is,  that 
the  oil  in  the  rind  would  rather  spoil  the  fla- 
vor of  the  jelly,  than  be  any  addition. 

JELLY,  QUINCE.  Quinces  for  jelly 
ought  not  to  be  quite  ripe,  they  should,  how- 
ever, be  of  a  fine  yellow  color ;  take  off"  the 
down  which  covers  them,  quarter,  core,  put 
them  into  a  saucepan,  with  water  enough  to 
cover  them ;  set  Uiem  on  the  fire,  and  when 
soft,  lay  the  pieces  on  a  sieve  to  di-ain, 
pressing  them  very  slightly;  strain  the  li- 
quor, and  measure  it;  clarify,  and  boil  to 
casse  an  ecjual  quantity  of  sugar ;  then  take 
it  off,  add  the  liquor  to  it,  stirring  it  well; 


JUI 


104 


KAV 


when  mixed,  put  it  on  tlie  fii-e,  still  stirring; 
as  soon  as  the  jelly  spreads  over  the  spoon, 
and  fells  from  it  like  treacle ;  take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  into  pots. 

JELLY,  RASPBERRY.  Take  two 
thirds  of  rasljerries,  and  one  third  red  cur- 
rants; pick  them,  piess  the  juioe  through  a 
sieve  into  a  pan,  cover,  and  place  it  in  a 
cellai-,  or  any  other  cool  place  for  three  days ; 
at  the  end  of  that  time  raise  the  thick  skin 
formed  at  the  top,  and  pour  the  juice  into 
another  vessel:  weigh  it,  and  put  it,  with 
half  the  (juantity  of  siigtir,  into  a  preserving 
pan,  set  it  on  the  fire ;  a  gi'eat  deal  of  sciun 
will  rise  at  first,  which  must  aU  be  taken  off; 
leave  it  on  the  fire  for  an  hour;  tlien  j)oui'  a 
few  drojis  on  a  cold  plate,  if  it  cools  of  die 
proper  consistence  for  jellies,  take  it  from 
the  fii-e  and  whilst  hot  pour  it  into  pots  ; 
Let  the  jelly  be  quite  cold  before  the  pots  are 
covered. 

^  JELLY,  RUM.  Oarify,  and  boil  to  a 
sirup,  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar ;  dissolve  one 
ounce  of  isinglass  in  half  a  pint  of  watei', 
strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  tlie  sirup  when 
it  is  half  warm,  and  when  nearly  cold,  stir 
in  a  quart  of  white  wine;  mix  it  well,  and 
add  one  or  two  table-spoonfuls  of  old  Ja- 
maica rum,  stir  it  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
poui"  it  into  a  mould,  or  into  glasses. 

JELLY,  STRAWBERRY.  Put  some 
fresh-gathered  strawberries  into  an  eardien 
pan,  bruise  them  with  a  wooden  s|X)on,  add 
a  little  cold  water,  and  some  linely-pounded 
loa|"  sugar.  Li  an  hour  or  two,  strain  it 
through  a  jelly-bag,  and  to  a  quart  of  the 
juice  add  one  ounce  of  isinglass,  which  has 
been  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  well- 
skimmed,  strained,  and  allowed  to  cool;  mix 
all  well,  and  pour  it  into  an  earthen  mould. 

Raspljerry  jell}',  red  currant  jelly,  and  red 
currants  mixed  with  raspberries,  may  be 
made  exactly  in  the  same  manner ;  and  the 
bright  red  color  may  be  improved  by  mixing 
in  a  little  carmine  or  lake.  When  this  kind 
of  jelly  is  to  be  made  w'ith  cherries,  the  fruit 
should  be  boiled  a  few  minutes  in  clarified 
sugar,  and  when  cold,  the  juice  of  one  or  two 
lemons  may  be  added  with  the  isinglass. 

A  little  lemon  juice  may  be  added  to  any 
of  the  other  jellies,  in  proportion  to  tlie  acid- 
ity of  the  fruit. 

They  may  be  iced  by  covering  and  sur- 
rounding the  mould  widi  ice,  without  any  salt. 

JUICE.  The  proportion  of  oranges 
should  be  double  that  of  lemons;  the  fruit 
being  selected  free  from  decay,  and  wiped 
dry,  they  are  to  be  sciueezed,  and  the  juice 
strained  through  a  sicive  into  an  earthen  pan; 
to  each  pint,  according  to  die  acidity  of  the 


fruit,  a  pound  and  a  half,  or  a  jx)und  and 
three-cjuarters,  of  double-refined  sogar,  bro- 
ken small,  is  to  be  added.  It  must  be  stirred 
and  skimmed  daily,  till  die  sugar  is  well  in- 
corporated, or  as  long  as  the  scum  risee; 
and  when  it  has  been  a  month  in  the  pan,  it 
may  be  boiled. 

JUICE  OF  FRESH  FRUIT  ICED. 
Press  through  a  sieve  the  juice  of  a  pint  of 
pickled  currants  or  ras])berries,  add  to  it 
four  or  five  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a 
little  lemon  juice,  and  a  pint  of  cream.  It 
may  be  whisked  previous  to  freezing,  and  a 
mixture  of  the  juice  may  be  used. 

JULIENNE.  This  soup  is  composed 
of  carrots,  turni|)s,  leeks,  onions,  celery,  let- 
tuce, sorrel  and  chervil ;  the  I'oots  are  cut  in 
thin  slips,  about  an  inch  long,  the  onions  are 
halved  and  then  sliced;  die  lettuce  suid  sor- 
rel chopped  small;  toss  up  the  roots  in  a 
little  butter,  when  they  are  done,  add  the 
lettuces,  &c.  moisten  them  widi  broth,  and 
lx)il  the  \\  hole  over  a  slow  fire  lor  an  hour  or 
more,  if  necessary;  prepai'e  some  bread  in 
the  usual  way,  and  poui-  die  julieime  over  it. 

JUMBLES.  Mix  one  pound  of  fine 
floui"  w  itli  one  pound  of  fine  powder  sugar, 
make  dicni  into  a  light  paste  with  whites  of 
cj^S^i  well  beaten ;  add  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  melted,  and  a 
jwund  of  blanched  almonds,  pounded ;  knead 
them  all  togediei-,  thoroughly,  with  a  little 
rose  Mater,  and  cut  out  the  jumbles  into 
whatever  forms  you  diink  proper;  and  eiih- 
ei-  bake  them  in  a  gentle  o\eii,  or  fj-y  them 
in  fi'esh  butter;  serve  them  in  a  dish,  melt 
fresh  butter  widi  a  sjioonfiil  of  mountain,  and 
strew  fine  sugar  over  the  dish. 

JUSTICE'S  OIL\NGE  SIRUP  FOR 
Punch  or  Puddings.  Squeeze  the  or- 
anges, and  strain  the  juice  from  the  pulp 
into  a  large  pot;  boil  it  up  with  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  fine  sugar  to  each  pint  of  juice  j 
skim  it  well;  let  it  stand  till  cold;  then 
botde  it,  and  cork  it  well.  Obs.— This 
makes  a  fine,  soft,  mellow-flavored  punch; 
and,  added  to  melted  butter,  is  a  good  relish 
to  puddings. 


K. 


KAVIA.  Take  the  hard  roes  of  several 
stiugeon,  and  lay  diem  in  a  tub  of  water; 
take  away  all  the  fibres  as  jou  would  from 
a  calf's  brains,  then,  widi  a  whisk,  l>eat  the 
roes  ia  die  water, shaking  off  fiom  the  whisk 
whatever  fibres  may  be  adliering  to  it ;  then 
lay  die  roes  on  sieves  for  a  short  time ;  after 


KID 


105 


KIS 


which  put  them  into  fresh  water  again ;  and 
continue  to  whip  them,  and  change  tlie  wa- 
ter, until  the  roes  are  perfectly  cleansed  and 
free  fi'om  fibre ;  lay  them  on  sieves  to  drain, 
season  tjiem  well  with  salt  and  pepper; 
wrap  them  in  a  coarse  cloth,  tying  them  up 
like  a  ball,  and  let  them  drain  thus  till  the 
next  day,  when  serve  tliem  with  fried  bi'ead, 
and  shallots  chopped  small.  If  they  are  to 
be  kept  for  sometime,  put  more  salt  to  them. 

KEBOBBED  VEAL.     See  Veal. 

KELLY'S  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 

KERRY  BUTTER  MILK.  Put  six 
quarts  of  butter-milk  into  a  cheese  cloth, 
hang  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  let  the  whey 
drip  from  it  for  two  or  three  days ;  when  it 
is  rather  thick,  put  it  into  a  basin,  sweeten 
it  witli  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  add  a  glass 
of  brandy,  or  of  sweet  wine,  and  as  much 
I'aspberry  jam,  or  sirup,  as  will  color  and 
give  it  an  agreeable  flavor.  Whisk  it  well 
together,  and  serve  it  in  a  glass  disli. 

KETCHUP,  ENGLISH.  Peel  ten 
cloves  of  garlic,  bruise  them,  and  put  them  in- 
to a  quart  of  white  wine  vinegar ;  take  a  quart 
of  white  Port,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
boils,  put  in  twelve  or  fourteen  anchovies, 
washed  and  cut  in  pieces ;  let  them  simmer 
in  the  wine  till  they  are  dissolved;  when 
cold,  put  them  to  the  vinegar;  then  take 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  put  into  it 
some  mace,  some  ginger  sliced,  a  few  cloves, 
a  spoonful  of  whole  pepper  bruised ;  let  them 
boil  a  little;  when  almost  cold,  slice  in  a 
whole  nutmeg,  and  some  lemon-peel,  with 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  horse-radish ;  add 
it  to  the  rest,  stop  it  close,  and  stir  it  once 
or  twice  a  day.     Keep  it  close  stopped  up. 

See  Mushroom  Ketchup. 

KEW  MINCE.  Cut  a  pound  of  meat 
fi-om  a  leg  of  cold  roasted  mutton,  and  mince 
it  veiy  finely,  together  with  six  ounces  of 
suet,  mix  with  it  three  or  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  crumbs  of  bread,  the  beaten  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  one  anchovy  chopped,  some  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  half  a  pint  of  Port  wine ; 
put  it  into  a  caul  of  veal,  and  bake  it  in  a 
quick  oven ;  turn  it  out  into  a  dish,  and  pour 
some  brown  gravy  over  it;  serve  with  it 
venison  sauce.  When  a  veal  caul  is  not  to 
be  had,  the  mince  may  be  done  in  a  sauce- 
pan. 

KID.  Kid  is  good  eating  when  it  is  but 
three  or  four  months  old,  its  flesh  is  then 
delicate  and  tender,  but  is  not  used  after  it 
has  done  sucking.  To  be  good,  it  ought  to 
he  fat  and  white.  It  is  dressed  iu  tlie  same 
manner  as  lamb  or  fawn. 


KIDNEYS.  Cut  them  through  die  long 
way,  score  them,  and  sprinkle  them  over 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  in  order  to 
broil  all  over  alike,  and  to  keep  tliem  from 
curling  on  the  giidiron,  rim  a  wire  skewer 
right  through  them.  They  must  be  broiled 
over  a  clear  fire,  being  careful  to  turn  them 
frequently  till  diey  are  done;  they  will  take 
about  ten  or  twelve  minutes  broiling,  provi- 
ded diey  are  done  over  a  brisk  fire ;  or,  if 
you  choose,  you  may  fry  them  in  butter,  and 
make  gravy  for  them  in  the  pan  (after  the 
kidneys  are  taken  out),  by  putting  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour;  as  soon  as  it  looks  brown, 
put  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  as  will 
make  gravy;  tliey  will  take  five  minutes 
longer  frying  than  broiling.  Garnish  with 
fried  parsley:  you  may  improve  them  if  you 
think  proper,  by  chopping  a  few  parsley 
leaves  very  fine,  mix  them  with  a  bit  of  fresh 
butter,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  then 
put  some  of  this  mixture  over  each  kidney. 

KISSES.  (1)  Put  the  whites  of  eight 
eggs,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
water,  into  a  China  basin,  and  whisk  till 
they  become  a  firm  froth,  tlien  add  half  a 
pound  of  sifted  sugar,  stir  it  in  with  great 
care  by  means  of  a  spatula:  tliat  done,  lay 
small  pieces  of  this  mixture  on  white  paper ; 
make  each  drop  about  tlie  size  of  a  ratafia, 
rather  conical  dian  flat;  place  the  paper 
which  contains  them  on  a  piece  of  wood 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  put  Uiem  in  a  vei-y 
hot  oven:  watch  them,  and  as  soon  as  you 
perceive  they  begin  to  look  yellowish,  take 
them  out,  and  detach  tliem  from  the  paper 
with  a  knife  as  cautiously  as  possible,  foF 
they  are  very  tender.  Take  a  small  spoon» 
and  with  tlie  end  of  it  remove  tlie  moist  part, 
wiiich  is  at  the  bottom,  so  as  to  make  them 
a  little  hollow,  and  as  you  do  diem,  lay  each 
on  die  paper,  the  hollow  side  upwards ;  put 
them  on  the  wood  into  the  oven  again  for  a 
few  minutes  to  dry ;  when  done,  lay  them 
in  boxes,  and  keep  diem  in  a  dry  and  warm 
place.  If  diey  are  for  table,  fill  the  hollow 
of  each  with  a  little  whipped  cream  or  rasp- 
Ixjrry  jam;  put  them  together  by  couples, 
the  cream  or  jam  inside ;  place  them  in  a 
dish,  and  serve  them  as  soon  as  possible. 

KISSES.  (2)  One  pound  of  the  best  loaf 
sugar,  powdered  and  sifted.  The  whites  of 
four  eggs.  Twelve  drops  of  essence  of  lem- 
on. A  tea-cup  of  cunant  jelly.  Beat  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  till  they  stand  alone. 
Then  beat  in,  gradually,  the  sugar,  a  tea- 
spoonful  at  a  time.  Add  the  essence  of  lem- 
on, and  beat  die  whole  veiy  hard.  Lay  a 
wet  sheet  of  paper  on  the  bottom  of  a  square 
tin  pan.  Drop  on  it,  at  equal  distances,  a 
small  tea-spoonfiil  of  stiff  currant  jelly. 
With  a  large  spoon,  pile  some  of  the  beaten 


LAM 


106 


LAM 


white  of  egg  and  sugar,  on  each  lump  of 
jelly,  so  as  to  cover  it  entirely.  Drop  on 
the  mixture  as  evenly  as  possible,  so  as  to 
make  the  kisses  of  a  round  smooth  shape. 
Set  tiiem  in  a  cool  oven,  and  as  soon  as 
they  are  colored,  they  are  done.  Then  take 
them  out  and  place  them  two  bottoms  to- 
gether. Lay  tiiem  lightly  on  a  sieve,  and 
dry  them  in  a  cool  oven,  till  tlie  two  bot- 
toms stick  fast  together,  so  as  to  form  one 
ball  or  oval. 

KNUCKLES.     See  the  several  meats 
to  which  they  belong. 


L. 


LAMB.  The  fore  quarter  of  lamb  con- 
sists of  the  shoulder,  the  neck,  and  the 
breast  together ;  the  hind  quarter  is  the  leg 
and  loin.  There  are  also  the  head  and 
pluck,  the  fi-y  or  sweetbreads,  skirts,  lamb- 
stones,  and  liver.  In  choosing  the  fore 
quarter,  the  vein  in  the  neck  should  be  rud- 
dy, or  of  a  bluish  color.  In  the  hind  quar- 
ter, the  knuckle  should  feel  stiff,  the  kidney 
small,  and  perfectly  fresh.  To  keep  it,  the 
joints  should  be  carefully  wiped  every  day, 
and  in  warm  weather,  sprinkled  with  a  lit- 
tle jjepper.  The  fore  quarter  is  the  prime 
joint,  and  should  be  roasted  and  basted 
with  butter;  the  gravy  is  made  as  for  beef 
or  mutton.  Mint  sauce  is  served  in  a  sauce 
tureen,  and  half  a  lemon  is  sent  to  table 
with  it,  the  juice  of  which  is  squeezed  upon 
the  ribs  after  the  shoulder  is  cut  off,  and 
tliey  have  been  sprinkled-  with  salt.  If  tlie 
joint  weighs  five  pounds,  it  will  require  to 
be  roasted  one  hour;  if  ten  pounds,  one  hour 
and  three-quarters.  The  hind  quarter  may 
be  roasted,  or  the  leg  of  it  boiled.  The 
loin  is  then  cut  into  steaks,  fried,  and  serv- 
ed round  it;  the  outside  bones  being  cover- 
ed with  a  fringe  of  fried  parsley.  A  dish 
of  spinach  is  generally  served  with  the 
lamb. 

LAMB,  Is  a  delicate,  and  commonly 
considered  tender  meat;  but  those  who  talk 
of  tender  lamb,  while  they  are  tliinking  of 
■the  age  of  the  animal,  forget  that  even  a 
chicken  must  be  kept  a  proper  time  after  it 
has  been  killed,  or  it  will  be  tough  picking. 
To  the  usual  accompaniments  of  roasted 
meat,  green  mint  sauce,  and  a  salad,  is  com- 
monly added;  and  some  cooks,  about  five 
minutes  before  it  is  done,  sprinkle  it  with  a 
little  fresh  gathered  and  finely  minced  pars- 
ley. Lamb,  and  all  young  meats,  ought  to  be 
tlioroughly  done ;  therefore  do  not  take  eidier 
lamb  or  veal  off  the  spit  till  you  see  it  drop 
white  gravy.    When  green  mint  cannot  be 


got,  mint  vinegar  is  an  acceptable  substitute 
lor  it ;  and  crisp  parsley  on  a  side  plate,  is 
an  admirable  accompaniment. 

Hind-Quarter,  Of  eight  pounds,  will 
tiike  fiom  an  hour  and  three-tjuarters  to  two 
hours:  baste  and  froUi  it.  The  leg  and 
the  loin  of  lamb,  when  little,  should  be 
roasted  together;  die  former  being  lean,  tlie 
latter  fat,  and  the  gra\y  is  better  preserved. 

Fore-Quarter,  Often  pounds,  about  two 
hours.  It  is  a  pretty  general  custom,  when 
you  take  off'  the  shoulder  from  the  ribs,  to 
squeeze  a  Seville  orange  over  diem,  and 
sprinkle  them  with  a  little  jxjpper  and  salt. 
This  may  as  well  be  done  by  the  cook  be- 
fore it  comes  to  table ;  some  people  are  not 
remarkably  expert  at  dividing  these  joints 
nicely. 

Leg,  Of  five  pounds,  from  an  hour  to  an 
hour  and  a  half. 

Shoulder,  With  a  quick  fire,  an  hour. 

Ribs,  About  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a 
quarter :  joint  it  nicely,  crack  tlie  ribs  across, 
and  divide  them  fi-om  tlie  brisket  after  it  is 
roasted. 

Loin,  An  hour  and  a  quarter. 

Neck,  An  hour.  qq 

Breast,  Three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

LAMB  BREAST.  Cut  it  into  pieces, 
and  stew  it  in  a  weak  stock,  wiUi  a  glass 
of  Port  wine ;  add  pepper  and  salt.  When 
it  is  perfectly  tender,  thicken  the  sauce 
with  butter  and  flour.  Have  ready  cucum- 
bers stewed  in  grav7,  put  diera  over  the 
lamb  bef()re  serving.  A  breast  of  mutton 
may  be  served  in  the  same  way. 

LAMB   CHOPS  BROILED.      Cut  a 

loin  or  best  end  of  the  neck  into  chops,  flat- 
ten tliem,  and  cut  off  the  fat  and  skin ;  rub 
the  gridiron  with  a  little  fat,  and  broil  them 
on  a  clear  fire.  Turn  them  with  steak  tongs, 
till  quite  done.     Serve  Uiem  hot. 

LAMB  CHOPS.  Cut  a  neck  or  loin  of 
lamb  into  chops ;  rub  them  over  with  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg ;  dip  diem  into  grated 
bread,  mixed  with  })lenty  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  season  witli  lemon-peel,  pepper, 
and  salt ;  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  good 
dripping;  make  a  sauce  with  the  trimmings, 
and  diicken  the  sauce  with  butter  rolled  in 
flour;  add  a  little  lemon  pickle  and  mush- 
room ketchup.  Gai-nish  with  fried  parsley. 
They  may  be  served  with  or  wiUiout  tlie 
gravy. 

LAMB  CUTLETS.  Cut  the  cutlets  off 
die  loin,  into  round  bits;  trim  off  the  fat  and 
skin;  dij)  them  into  die  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg,  and  tlien  into  bread  crumbs,  mixed 
with  minced  parsley,  grated  nutmeg,  and 
lemon-peel,  pepper,  and  salt.     Fry  them  a 


LAM 


107 


LAR 


light  bro\vn  in  clarified  beef  suet;  dmin 
them  on  the  back  of  a  sieve  before  die  fire. 
Serve  them  with  melted  butter  with  a  little 
lemon  pickle  in  it,  or  a  brown  sauce  tliick- 
ened.     Garnish  with  cut  lemon. 

LAMB     DRESSED     WITH    RICE. 

Half  roast  a  small  fore  quarter  of  lamb ;  cut 
it  into  steaks,  season  them  with  a  little  salt 
and  {jepper ;  lay  them  into  a  dish,  and  pour 
in  a  little  water.  Boil  a  pound  of  rice 
with  a  blade  or  two  of  mace ;  strain  it,  and 
stir  in  a  good  piece  of  fresh  butter,  and  a 
little  salt,  add  also  the  greater  part  of  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten ;  cover  the  lamb 
with  the  rice,  and  with  a  feather  put  over 
it  the  remainder  of  tlie  beaten  eggs.  Bake 
it  in  an  oven  till  it  has  acquired  a  light 
brown  color. 

LAMB  FEET.  Clean,  well  wash,  and 
blanch  six  lamb's  feet;  stew  them,  till  they 
become  tender,  in  some  white  stock,  with  a 
slice  of  lean  ham,  one  onion,  some  parsley, 
thyme,  two  blades  of  mace,  a  little  whole 
pepper,  and  a  few  mushrooms.  Before 
serving,  strain  the  sauce ;  thicken  it  with 
flour  and  butter,  and  half  a  pint  of  cream ; 
boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  add  the  feet 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  small  lemon.  Gar- 
nish with  sipf)ets  of  thin  toasted  bread,  cut 
into  a  three-cornered  shape. 

LAMB  FRY.  Fry  it  plain,  or  dip  it 
in  an  egg  well  beaten  on  a  plate,  and  strew 
some  fine  stale  bread-crumbs  over  it;  gar- 
nish with  crisp  parsley. 

LAMB,  LEG  OF,  BOILED.  It  should 
be  boiled  in  a  cloth,  that  it  may  look  as 
white  as  possible.  Cut  the  loin  in  steaks, 
dip  them  in  egg,  strew  them  over  with 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  a  nice  brown, 
serve  them  round  the  dish,  and  garnish  >vitli 
dried  or  fried  parsley ;  serve  with  spinacii 
to  eat  witli  it. 

LAMB  PIE,  THE  GERMAN  WAY. 

Cut  a  (Quarter  of  lamb  into  pieces,  and  lard 
them  with  small  lardons  of  bacon,  season- 
ed with  salt,  pepper,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  a 
bay-leaf;  add  fat  bacon  pounded,  small  on- 
ions, nutmeg,  and  sweet  herbs ;  put  these 
into  the  pie,  and  let  it  bake  for  three  hours; 
when  baked,  cut  it  open,  skim  off  all  the 
fat,  pour  in  a  ragout  of  oysters,  and  sei-ve 
hot. 

LAMB  PIE,  A  SAVORY  ONE.      Cut 

the  meat  into  pieces,  and  season  it  with 
pepper,  salt,  mace,  cloves,  and  nutmeg, 
finely  beaten.  Make  a  good  puff  paste 
crust,  put  the  meat  into  it,  with  a  few 
lamb    stones    and    sweetbreads,   seasoned 


I  the  same  as  the  meat.  Then  put  in  some 
oysters  and  forcemeat  balls,  the  yolks  of 
hard  eggs,  and  llie  tops  of  asparagus,  about 
two  indies  long,  first  boiled  green.  Put 
butter  all  over  the  pie,  put  on  the  lid,  and 
let  it  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  quick 
oven.  In  tlie  meantime,  take  a  pint  of  gra- 
vy, the  oyster  liquor,  a  gill  of  red  wine,  and 
a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Mix  all  togetlier 
with  the  yolks  of  two  or  diree  eggs,  finely 
beaten,  and  keep  stirring  it  tlie  same  way 
all  the  time.  When  it  boils,  jx)ur  it  into 
the  pie,  put  on  the  lid  again,  and  serve  it  to 
table. 

LAMB,  TO  ROAST   OR  BOIL.    A 

quarter  of  an  hour  is  generally  allowed  to 
each  pound  of  meat ;  a  leg  of  lamb  of  five 
pounds  will  therefore  take  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  to  roast  or  boil,  the  other  joints  in 
die  same  proportion ;  serve  either  with  sa- 
lad, pickles,  brocoli,  cauliflowers,  string 
beans,  pease,  potatoes,  or  cucumbers,  mw 
or  stewed. 

LAMB  SHOULDER,  GRILLED.  Boil 
it ;  score  it  in  chequers  about  an  inch  square, 
i-ub  it  over  with  die  yolk  of  an  egg,  pepper 
and  salt  it,  strew  it  with  bread-crumbs  and 
dried  parsley,  or  sweet  herbs,  and  carbo- 
nado, i.  e.  grill,  i.  e.  broil  it  over  a  clear 
fire,  or  put  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  till  it  is  a 
nice  light  brown ;  send  up  some  gravy  with 
it,  or  make  a  sauce  for  it  of  flour  and  water 
well  mixed  together  with  an  ounce  of  fresh 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  or 
walnut  ketchup,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lem- 
on. See  Grill  sauce.  Breasts  of  lamb 
are  often  done  in  the  same  way,  and  widi 
mushroom  or  mutton  sauce. 

LAMB  STEAKS  FRIED.  Fry  Uiem 
of  die  nicest  brown;  when  served,  dirow 
over  them  a  good  quantity  of  crumbs  of 
bread  fried,  and  crisped  parsley.  Or  you 
may  season  them  and  broil  diem  in  buttered 
papers,  eidier  with  crumbs  and  herbs,  or 
without,  according  to  taste. 

LARD,  HOG'S.  The  lard  should  be 
carefully  melted  in  a  jar,  put  into  a  kettle 
of  water,  and  boiled ;  run  it  into  bladders 
that  have  been  particularly  well  cleaned. 
It  is  best  to  have  die  bladders  small,  as  the 
lard  will  keep  better,  for,  after  the  air 
reaches  it,  it  becomes  rank.  Whilst  it  is 
melting,  put  in  a  sprig  of  rosemary.  This 
being  a  very  useful  article  in  frying  fish,  it 
should  be  prepared  with  great  care.  Mix- 
ed with  batter,  it  makes  a  fine  crust. 

LARKS.  These  delicate  litde  birds  are 
in  high  season  in  November.  When  they 
are  thoroughly  picked,  gutted,  and  cleansed. 


LEI 


108 


LEM 


truss  tliem;  do  tliem  over  with  the  yolk  of 
egg,  and  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs ; 
spit  them  on  a  lark  spit,  and  fasten  that  on 
to  a  laiger  spit,  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  will 
be  sufficient  time  to  roast  diem  in  before  a 
quick  fire;  whilst  they  are  roasting,  baste 
them  with  fresh  butter,  and  sprinkle  diem 
with  bread-crumbs  till  diey  are  well  cover- 
ed with  tliem.  Fry  some  giated  bread  in 
buttei-,  set  it  to  drain  before  die  fire,  that  it 
may  harden.  Serve  tlie  crumbs  in  the  dish 
under  the  larks,  and  garnish  widi  slices  of 
lemon. 

LAVENDER  DROPS.  Fill  a  quart 
bottle  with  the  blossoms   of  lavender,  and 

Eur  on  it  as  much  brandy  as  it  will  contain ; 
it  stand  ten  days,  Uien  strain  it,  and  add 
of  nutmeg  bniised,  cloves,  mace,  and  cochi- 
neal, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each,  and  bot- 
tle it  for  use.  In  nervous  cases,  a  little  may 
be  taken  dropped  on  a  bit  of  sugar ;  and  in 
the  beginning  of  a  bowel  complaint,  a  tea- 
spoonful,  taken  in  half  a  glass  of  pepper- 
mint water,  will  often  prove  efficacious. 

LAVENDER  WATER.  Put  into  a 
large  bottle,  eight  ounces  of  the  best  recti- 
fied spirits  of  wine,  three  diachms  of  oil  of 
lavender,  one  drachm  of  essence  of  amber- 
gris, and  threepence-woith  of  musk ;  cork 
it  tightly,  and  shake  it  well  every  day,  for 
a  fortnight  or  three  weeks. 

LEAVES,  TO  GREEN,  FOR  ORNA- 
MENTL\G  FRUIT.  Take  small  leaves 
of  a  pear-tree,  keep  them  close  stopi)ed  in 
a  pan  of  verjuice  and  water,  give  them  a 
boil  in  some  sirup  of  apricots ;  put  them  be- 
tween two  pieces  of  glass  to  dry ;  smooth 
and  cut  them  into  tlie  shape  of  apiicot- 
leaves  (die  leaves  should  be  procured  with 
stallis) ;  stick  them  about  tlie  api'icots  or 
any  other  preserved  fruit;  but  the  leaves 
must  be  cut  in  the  shape  of  die  leaf  Avhich 
belongs  to  the  fruit  you  ornament. 

LEEKS.  Leeks  are  most  generally  used 
for  soups,  ragouts,  and  other  made  dishes, 
tliey  are  very  rarely  brought  to  table ;  in 
which  case  dress  them  as  follows: — Put 
tliem  into  the  stock-pot  till  about  three  parts 
done ;  then  take  them  out,  drain,  and  soak 
them  in  vinegar  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  cloves;  drain  them  again,  stuflf  the 
heai-ts  with  z.  farce,  dip  them  in  batter,  and 
fi-y  tliem. 

LEIPZEGER  PANCAKES.  Beat  well 
the  whites  of  four,  and  the  yolks  of  eight 
fresh  eggs,  and  add,  by  degrees,  half  a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  sweet  cream  just  warmed,  half  a 
pound  of  clarified  fresh  butter,  two  table- 


spoonfuls  of  fresh  yeast,  and  a  wine-glass  full 
of  spirits  of  wine;  then  mix  in  as  much  sifted 
flour  as  will  make  it  into  a  thick  batter; 
let  it  rise  for  half  an  hour ;  roll  it  out  thin ; 
cut  it  into  rounds  or  oblong  pieces,  and  lay 
on  them  jam  or  marmalade ;  double  them, 
and  let  them  stand  again  to  rise,  and  fry 
them  in  boiling  fresh  lard  or  butter. 

LEMONADE.  To  a  gallon  of  spring 
water  add  some  cinnamon  and  cloves,  plen- 
ty of  orange  and  plenty  of  lemon-juice,  and 
a  bit  of  the  peel  of  each;  sweeten  well  with 
loaf  sugar,  and  whisk  it  with  the  whites  of 
six  eggs,  and  the  yolk  of  one ;  give  it  a  boil, 
and  Uien  let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes;  then 
run  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  let  it  stand 
till  cold,  beiore  it  is  drank. 

LEMONADE  TRANSPARENT.  The 
peel  of  fourteen  lemons  having  been  soaked 
in  two  quarts  of  water  for  two  hours,  their 
juice,  one  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  a 
quart  of  white  wine,  are  to  be  added ;  a 
quart  of  new  milk,  made  boiling  hot,  is  then 
to  be  mixed  widi  it,  and  when  it  has  stood 
an  hour,  it  is  to  be  strained  through  a  jelly- 
bag  till  it  runs  cleai-. 

LEMON  BONBONS.  Take  two  pounds 
of  the  best  lump  sugar,  clarify  and  boil  it  to 
caramel;  but  just  before  it  leaches  diat 
point,  grate  die  rind  of  a  lemon  and  put  in 
it;  in  the  rneanwhile  melt  a  little  butter; 
skim,  and  pour  it  ofl^ clear;  take  a  spoonful 
of  this  butter,  and  rub  it  with  your  hand  over 
a  copperplate  or  marble  slab,  on  \\  liich  pour 
die  caramel  sugar :  then  have  a  sword  blade, 
take  an  end  in  each  hand,  and  impress  lines 
in  die  sugar  about  an  inch  apart ;  then  im- 
press similar  lines  across  the  first,  so  as  to 
form  small  cakes ;  this  operation  should  be 
performed  as  quickly  as  possible,  lest  the 
sugar  should  cool  before  the  whole  is  mark- 
ed ;  when  however  all  is  done,  pass  the 
blade  carefully  between  the  sugar  and  die 
slab,  lay  it  on  sheets  of  white  paper,  and 
when  perfectly  cold,  separate  the  bonbons, 
and  wrap  each  in  paper;  keep  them  in  a 
dry  place. 

LEMON  BRANDY.  Three  quarts  of 
brandy  being  put  into  an  earthen  jar  that  is 
fitted  with  a  cover,  a  pound  and  diree-quar- 
ters  of  fine  loaf  sugar,  the  diin  parings  of 
six  lemons,  and  the  juice  of  twelve,  are  to 
be  added ;  one  quart  of  boiling  milk  is  to  be 
poured  over  the  mixture,  which  must  be 
stirred  daily  for  eight  days ;  it  is  dien  to  be 
run  through  a  jelly-bag  and  bottled. 

LEMON  CHEESECAKES.  Boil  the 
peel  of  two  large  lemons  till  they  are  quite 
tender,  and  dien  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar. 


LEM 


109 


■^^ 


M 


THE 


with  four  or  five  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs,  lialf  a  pound  of  fre-sh  but- 
ter, and  a  little  curd  beaten  fine:  pound  and 
mix  altogether,  lay  a  rich  putT  paste  in  some 
patty-pans,  fill  them  half  full,  and  bake  them 
carefully. 

LExMON  CHEESECAKES.  Mix  four 
ounces  of  sifted  lump  sugar,  and  four  ounces 
of  butter  together,  and  gently  melt  it ;  then 
add  the  yolks  of  two,  and  the  white  of  one 
egg,  the  rind  of  three  lemons  shred  fine,  and 
tlie  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  half,  one  sa- 
vory biscuit,  some  blanched  almonds,  pound- 
ed, tlu-ee  spoonfuls  of  brandy;  mix  tlie 
whole  well  together,  and  put  it  to  paste 
made  with  the  following  ingredients:  eight 
ounces  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  butter,  two- 
thirds  of  which  must  be  mixed  with  the 
flour  first ;  then  wet  it  with  six  spoonfuls  of 
water,  and  roll  in  tlie  remainder  of  the  but- 
ter. 

LEMON  CHIPS.  Take  large  smooth- 
rinded  Malaga  lemons ;  race  or  cut  off  their 
peel  into  chips  with  a  small  knife  (this  will 
require  some  pmctice  to  do  it  properly)  ', 
throw  them  into  salt  and  water  till  next 
day;  have  ready  a  pan  of  boiling  water, 
throw  diem  in  and  boil  them  tender.  Drain 
them  well:  after  having  lain  sometime  in 
water  to  cool,  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan, 
pour  over  enough  boiling  clarified  sugar  to 
cover  them,  and  then  let  them  lie  two  days ; 
then  strain  the  sirup,  put  more  sugar,  and 
reduce  it  by  boiling  till  the  sirup  is  quite 
thick;  put  in  the  chips,  and  simmer  them  a 
few  minutes,  and  set  them  by  for  two  days: 
repeat  it  once  more ;  let  them  be  two  days 
longer,  and  they  will  be  fit  to  candy,  which 
must  be  done  as  follows:  take  four  pints  of 
clarified  sugar,  which  will  be  sufficient  for 
six  pounds  of  chips,  boil  it  to  the  degree  of 
blown  (which  may  be  known  by  dipping  the 
skimmer  into  the  sugar,  and  blowing  strong- 
ly through  the  holes  of  it;  if  little  bladders 
appear,  it  has  attained  that  degree);  and 
when  the  chips  are  thoroughly  drained  and 
wijied  on  a  clean  cloth,  put  them  into  the 
sirup,  stirring  them  about  with  the  skimmer 
till  you  see  the  sugar  become  white;  then 
take  them  out  with  two  forks ;  shake  them 
lightly  into  a  wire  sieve,  and  set  them  into 
a  stove,  or  in  a  warm  place  to  dry.  Orange 
chips  are  done  in  the  same  way. 

LEMON  ESSENCE.  Rasp  your  lem- 
ons all  round,  very  thin,  and  for  every  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  rind,  allow  one  pound  of 
sugar ;  mix  it  well  wiUi  a  large  spaddle  till 
you  find  it  is  all  of  the  same  color,  and  that 
the  rind  is  well  mixed  ;  put  it  into  a  stone 
jar,  and  press  it  down  as  hard  as  you  can ; 
put  a  bladder  over  the  paper  you  cover  with, 
10 


T.T 


and  tie  it  WeHuJK  tigliV;  put  itlyj' W  ifi 
a  month's  lime  it  will  be  fit  for  use". 

LEMON  JUICE  TO  PRESERVE. 
Squeeze,  and  ,-t.;;ii;  a  pint  of  lemon-juice ; 
put  into  a  China  basin  one  pound  of  double- 
refined  sugar  finely  pounded  and  sift^ed,  add 
the  lemon-juice,  and  stir  it  with  a  silver 
spoon  till  the  sugar  be  perfectly  dissolved. 
Bottle  it,  and  cork  it  tightly ;  seal  the  cork, 
or  tie  bladder  over  it,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry 
cool  place. 

LEMON  MARMALADE.  AUow  to  a 
pound  of  lemons  eighteen  ounces  of  fine 
loaf  sugar ;  grate  the  rind  of  a  few ;  cut 
them  into  half;  squeeze  and  strain  the  juice ; 
boil  the  skins  in  the  same  way  as  those 
of  the  orange  skins  are  done;  scoop  out  the 
pulp  and  white  part;  cut  half  into  thin  chips 
or  parings,  and  pound  the  other  half  in  a 
mortar ;  pound  the  sugar,  and  pour  over  it 
the  juice ;  stir,  and  let  it  boil  for  five  min- 
utes; skim  it;  take  it  off  die  fire;  put  in  the 
parings  and  the  pounded  skins ;  boil  it  for 
five  minutes,  then  add  the  grated  peel,  and  let 
it  boil  for  five  minutes  more  ;  take  it  off,  and 
stir  it  till  half  cold,  before  putting  it  into  jars. 

LEMON  MINCE  PIES.  Squeeze  out 
the  juice  from  a  large  lemon ;  boil  the  out- 
side till  sufiiciently  tender  to  beat  to  a  mash, 
add  to  it  tliree  large  apples  chopped,  and 
four  ounces  of  suet,  half  a  pound  of  currants, 
four  ounces  of  sugar ;  put  the  juice  of  tlie 
lemon,  and  add  candied  fruit,  the  same  as 
for  other  pies.  Make  a  short  crust,  and  fill 
the  patty-pans  in  the  usual  manner. 

LEMON-PEEL  ESSENCE.  Wash 
and  brush  clean  the  lemons;  let  them  get 
perfectly  diy :  take  a  lump  of  loaf  sugar,  and 
rub  them  till  all  the  yellow  rind  is  taken  up 
by  the  sugar:  scrape  off  the  surface  of  the 
sugar  into  a  preserving  pot,  and  press  it 
hard  down ;  cover  it  very  close,  and  it  will 
keep  for  sometime. 

LEMON-PEEL  QUINTESSENCE. 
Best  oil  of  lemon,  one  drachm,  strongest 
rectified  spirit,  two  ounces,  introduced  by 
degi-ees  till  the  spirit  kills,  and  completely 
mixes  with  the  oil.  This  elegant  prepara- 
tion possesses  all  the  delightful  fragrance  and 
flavor  of  the  freshest  lemon-peel.  06s.— A 
few  drops  on  the  sugar  you  make  punch  with 
will  instantly  impregnate  it  witii  as  much 
flavor  as  the  troublesome  and  tedious  meth- 
od of  grating  the  rind,  or  rubbing  die  sugar 
on  it.  It  will  be  found  a  superlative  sub- 
stitute for  fiesli  lemon-peel  for  every  purpose 
tliat  it  is  used  for:  blancmange,  jellies,  cus- 
tards, ice,  negus,  lemonade,  and  pies  and  pud- 
dings, stuffings,  soups,  sauces,  ragouts,  &c. 


LEM 


110 


LEM 


LEMON-PEEL  TINCTURE.  A  very 
easy  and  economical  way  of  obtaining,  and 
preserving  the  flavor  of  lemon-peel,  is  lo  fill 
a  wide-mouthed  pint  bottle  half  full  of  bran- 
dy, or  proof  spirit ;  and  when  you  use  a 
lemon,  paie  the  rind  off  veiy  thin,  and  put 
it  into  the  brandy,  &c.:  in  a  fortnight  it 
will  impregnate  the  spirit  with  the  flavor 
very  strongly. 

LEMON  PICKLE.  (1)  Grate  off  a 
little  of  the  outer  rind  of  two  dozen  of  lem- 
ons, divide  tliem  into  four  rather  more  than 
half  way  down,  leaving  the  bottom  part 
whole ;  rub  on  them  equally  half  a  pound 
of  finely-beaten  salt,  spread  them  upon  a 
large  dish,  and  put  them  into  a  cool  oven. 
When  the  juice  has  dried  up,  put  them  into 
a  stone  jar,  with  an  ounce  of  cloves  and  one 
of  mace  finely  beaten,  one  ounce  of  nutmeg 
cut  into  thin  slices,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
cayenne,  and  four  ounces  of  garlic  peeled, 
also  half  a  pint  of  white  mustard-seed  bruis- 
ed and  tied  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  Pour  over 
the  whole  two  quarts  of  boiling  vinegar, 
stop  the  jar  closely,  and  let  it  stand  for  duee 
months ;  then  strain  it  tlu-ough  a  hair  sieve, 
pressing  it  well  through;  let  it  stand  till  tlie 
next  day,  pour  off"  the  clear,  and  put  it  into 
small  bottles.  Let  the  dregs  stand  covered 
some  days,  when  it  will  become  fine.  It 
will  keep  good  for  years.  When  the  lem- 
ons are  to  be  used  as  pickle,  no  straining  is 
necessaiy. 

LEMON  PICKLE.  (2)  Cut  into  quar- 
ters, and  pick  out  all  the  seeds  of  six  mid- 
dling sized  lemons;  })ut  them  into  a  jar, 
strew  over  them  two  ounces  of  well  beaten 
salt ;  cover  the  jar  with  a  cloth  and  plate, 
and  let  it  stand  three  days ;  then  put  to  them 
cloves  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace 
beaten  fine,  one  ounce  of  garlic  or  shallot, 
two  of  mustard -seed  bruised,  and  one  nut- 
meg sliced.  Make  a  quart  of  vinegar  Veil- 
ing hot,  and  pour  it  over  the  ingredients ; 
cover  tlie  jar,  and  in  three  or  four  days,  close 
it  with  a  bung,  and  tie  leather  over  it.  It 
will  be  fit  for  use  in  a  week,  and  is  an  im- 
provement to  most  sauces,  fuid  particularly 
to  fish  sauce. 

LEMON  POSSET.  Squeeze  the  juice 
of  two  lemons  into  a  China  bowl,  or  small 
deep  dish,  that  will  hold  a  quart ;  sweeten 
it  like  sii-up,  add  a  little  brandy  ]  boil  one 
pint  of  cream  with  a  bit  of  orange-peel ; 
take  out  the  peel ;  when  cold,  put  the  cream 
into  a  teapot,  pour  it  to  tlie  sirup,  holding 
it  high.  Make  it  the  day  before  it  is  want- 
ed. 

LEMON  PUDDING.     See  Pudding. 


LEMON    RINDS    MARMALADE. 

Having  squeezed  the  juice  from  your  lemons, 
cut  out  all  the  white  part,  and  put  the  rinds 
into  boiling  water ;  as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
soften,  take  them  from  the  fire,  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water ;  tlien  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  to  drain,  and  make  them  into  marma- 
lade, in  the  same  manner  as  apricots.  Or- 
ange rinds  are  done  tliis  way. 


LEMON  SPONGE.  Boil  half  an . 
of  isinglass  in  a  pint  of  water  till  dissolved; 
strain  it,  and  the  following  day  add  the 
juice  of  two  lemons,  and  the  grated  peel  of 
one ;  rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  into  the  isin- 
glass a  good  quantity  of  raspberiy  jam,  that 
has  stood  before  the  fire  some  time,  and 
whisk  it  all  together  till  like  a  sponge;  put 
it  into  an  eiuthen  mould,  set  it  in  a  cold 
place  for  some  hours,  and  turn  it  out.  Any 
ether  sort  of  preserve  may  be  used,  and  if 
made  with  only  orange  or  lemon-juice, 
sweeten  it  with  sugar,  or  make  it  with 
orange  jelly  which  may  have  been  left  the 
day  before.  * 

LEMON  SYLLABUBS.  Take  a  pint 
of  cream,  a  pint  of  white  wine,  the  peel  of 
two  lemons  giated,  and  the  juice ;  sugar  ac- 
cording to  taste;  let  it  stand  some  time; 
mill  or  whip  it,  lay  the  froth  on  a  sieve ;  put 
the  remainder  into  glasses,  and  lay  on  the 
froth.  They  should  be  made  the  day  before 
they  are  wanted.  If  you  should  wish  tliem 
to  taste  very  strong  of  the  lemon,  you  must 
make  use  of  the  juice  of  six  lemons,  and 
nearly  a  pound  of  sugar;  they  will  keep, 
four  or  fise  days.  { 

LEaiONS,  SIRUP  OF.     Put  a  pint  of  ! 
fresh    lemon-juice  to    a   pound    and    thi'ee- 
quarters   of  lump  sugar;    dissolve   it  by  a 
gentle  heat ;  skim  it  till  the  surface  is  quite 
clear;  add  an  ounce  of  thin-cut  lemon-peel; 
let  them  simmer  (very  gently)  together  for  a 
few  minutes,  and  run   it  through  a  flannel. 
When  cold,  bottle  and  cork  it  closely,  and 
keep  it  in  a  cool  place.     Or,   Dissolve   a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  (avoirdupois)  of  citric, 
i.  e.  ciystallized  lemon  acid,  in  a  pint  of  .;. 
clarified  sirup;   flavor  it  witli  the  peel,  or  ; 
dissolve  the  acid  in  equal  parts  of  simple 
sirup,  and  sirup  of  lemon-peel.  ! 

LEMON  WATER.  Put  two  slices  of 
thinly  pared  lemon  into  a  teapot,  a  little  bit 
of  the  peel,  and  a  bit  of  sugar,  or  a  large 
spoonful  of  capillaire ;  pour  in  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  stop  it  close  for  two  hours. 

LEMON  CONSERVE,  WHITE.  Boil 
a  pound  of  the  finest  sugar j  take  it  off"  the 
fire,  and  squeeze  into  it  die  juice  of  one 
lemou  at  different  times,  stirring  continually ; 


LOB 


111 


LOB 


it  will  make  the  sugar  as  white  as  milk  if 
properly  done ;  take  care  not  to  drop  any 
of  the  seeds  into  it ;  work  it  well  together, 
and  when  it  is  of  an  equal  substance  (which 
prove  in  the  same  manner  as  any  other  jelly), 
pour  it  into  a  mould.  Lemon  conserve  is 
made  in  the  same  manner,  only  diat  the  su- 
gar must  be  boiled  to  a  greater  height  than 
for  white  lemon  conserve. 

LOBSTER.  Buy  these  alive;  the  lob- 
ster merchants  sometimes  keep  them  till 
they  are  starved,  before  they  boil  them ; 
they  are  then  wateiy,  have  not  half  their 
flavor,  and  like  other  persons  that  die  of  a 
consumption,  have  lost  the  calf  of  their  legs. 
Choose  lliose  that  (as  an  old  cook  says,  are 
"heavy  and  lively,"  and)  are  full  of  mo- 
tion, which  is  the  index  of  their  freshness. 
Those  of  the  middle  size  are  the  best.  Nev- 
er take  them  when  the  shell  is  incrusted, 
which  is  a  sign  they  are  old.  The  male 
lobster  is  preferred  to  eat,  and  the  female 
(on  account  of  the  eggs)  to  make  sauce  of. 
The  hen  lobster  is  distinguished  by  having  a 
broader  tail  than  the  male,  and  less  claws. 
Set  on  a  pot,  with  water  salted  in  propor- 
tion of  a  table-spoonful  of  salt  to  a  quart  of 
water;  when  the  water  boils,  put  it  in,  and 
keep  it  boiling  briskly  from  half  an  hour  to 
an  hour,  according  to  its  size ;  wipe  all  tlie 
scum  off  it,  and  rub  the  shell  with  a  very 
little  butter  or  sweet  oil;  break  off  the 
great  claws,  crack  them  carefully  in  each 
joint,  so  tliat  tliey  may  not  be  shattered, 
and  yet  come  to  pieces  easily;  cut  the  tail 
4own  the  middle,  and  send  up  the  body 
whole. 

LOBSTERS,  to  choose.  The  heaviest 
are  considered  the  best.  When  alive,  if  they 
are  quite  fresh,  the  claws  will  have  a  strong 
motion  when  you  put  your  finger  on  the  eyes 
and  press  tiiem.  When  you  buy  tiieiii  ready 
boiled,  try  whether  their  tails  are  stiff  and 
pull  up  with  a  spring,  otherwise  that  part 
will  \)e  flabby.  The  cock-lobster  may  l)e 
distinguished  from  the  hen  by  the  narrow 
back  part  of  the  tail,  and  the  two  uppermost 
fins  within  it  are  stiff  and  hard;  but  tliose 
of  the  hen  are  soft,  and  the  tail  broader. 
The  male,  diougli  generally  the  smallest,  has 
the  highest  flavor,  the  flesh  is  fu-mer,  and 
the  color  when  boiled  is  a  deeper  red.  They 
come  in  about  April,  and  remain  in  season 
till  the  oysters  return.  lien  lobsters  are 
preferred  for  sauces,  on  account  of  their 
coral. 

lid*"  Lobsters  are  sold  in  Boston,  al- 
ready boiled,  and  are  always  fresh  and 
good. 

LOBSTER  A  LA  BRAISE.  Pound 
the  meat  of  a  large  lobster  very  fine  with 


two  ounces  of  butter,  and  season  it  with 
grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and  white  pepper ;  add 
a  little  grated  bread,  beat  up  two  eggs,  re- 
ser\'e  part  to  put  over  the  meat,  and  with 
the  rest  make  it  up  into  the  form  of  a  lob- 
ster. Pound  the  spawn  and  red  part,  and 
spread  it  over  it ;  bake  it  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  just  before  serving,  lay  over  it  the 
tail  and  body  shell,  with  tlie  small  claws  put 
underneath  to  resemble  a  lobster. 

LOBSTERS  OR  CRABS,  buttered. 
Pick  all  the  meat  from  the  bodies  of  either, 
mince  it  small,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  white  wine, 
one  of  lemon-pickle,  and  three  or  four  of 
rich  gravy,  a  bit  of  butter,  some  salt,  pep- 
per, and  grated  nutmeg;  thicken  it  with 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beat  up,  and  when 
quite  hot,  put  it  into  the  large  shells ;  gar- 
nish them  with  an  edging  of  bread  toasted. 

LOBSTER  FRICASSEE.  Break  die 
shells,  and  take  out  the  meat  carefully,  cut 
it  and  the  red  part,  or  coral,  into  pieces, 
adding  the  spawn ;  thicken  with  flour  and 
butter  some  white  stock,  with  which  the 
shells  have  been  boiled;  season  it  with 
white  pepper,  mace,  and  salt,  put  in  tlie 
lobster  and  heat  it  up  ;  just  before  serving, 
add  a  little  lemon-juice,  or  lemon  pickle. 
The  stock  may  be  made  with  the  shells,  only 
boiled  in  a  pint  of  water,  with  some  white 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  mace,  thickened 
with  cream,  flour,  and  butter. 

LOBSTER  KETCHUP.  Choose  a 
lobster  that  is  full  of  spawn,  and  weighing 
as  nearly  as  possible  three  pounds ;  pick  out 
all  die  meat,  and  pound  the  red  j)iirt  or  co- 
ral in  a  marble  mortar;  when  coin|)letely 
bruised,  add  the  meat;  jjound,  and  moisten 
it  with  a  little  sherry  wine,  mix  witli  it  a 
tea-spoonful  of  cayenne,  add  the  rest  of  the 
bottle  of  sheny,  and  mix  it  thoroughly;  put 
it  into  two  wide-mouthed  Iwttles,  and  on 
tlie  top  put  a  small  table-sp<X)iiful  of  whole 
pepper,  cork  the  bottles  lightly,  and  tie 
diem  over  with  leaUier.  It  will  keep  good 
a  twelve-month,  and  exactly  resembles  hesh 
lobster  sauce.  Four  table-spoonfuls  heated 
in  melted  butter  are  sufficient  for  a  large 
sauce-tureen. 

LOBSTER  PATTIES.  (1)  Pick  the 
meat  and  red  berries  out  of  a  lobster,  mince 
them  finely,  add  grated  bread,  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  butter;  season  with  grated  nutmeg, 
white  pepper,  and  salt ;  add  a  little  vyhite 
stock,  cream,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  white 
wine,  with  a  few  clio|)ped  oysters ;  heat  it 
all  together.  Line  the  patty-pans  with  puff 
paste;  put  into  each  a  bit  of  crumb  of  bread, 
about  an  inch  squzu'e,  wet  the  edge  of  the 


LOB 


112 


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pauste,  and  cover  it  with  another  bit ;  with 
tlie  paste-cutter  mark  it  all  round  the  rim, 
and  pare  off  the  paste  lound  the  edge  of  the 
patty-pan.  When  baked,  take  off  the  top, 
and  with  a  knife  take  out  the  bread  and  a 
little  of  the  inside  paste,  put  in  the  prepar- 
ed loljster,  lay  on  the  top  paste,  and  serve 
them  in  a  napkin.  Another  way  to  pre- 
pare the  paste. — Roll  it  out  nearly  half  an 
mch  thick,  and  cut  it  into  roun^  witli  a 
tin  cutter,  and,  with  one  or  two  sizes  less, 
mark  it  in  the  middle  alwut  half  dirough. 
When  diey  are  baked,  carefully  cut  out  die 
inner  top  of  tiie  paste,  and  scoop  out  die  in- 
side, so  as  to  make  room  for  the  mince,  which 
put  in,  and  place  on  die  top. 

LOBSTER  PATTIES.  (2)  Prepare  the 
patties  as  in  the  last  i-eceipt.  Take  a  hen 
lobster  already  boiled;  pick  the  meat  from 
the  tail  and  claws,  and  chop  it  fine;  put  it 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  of  the  inside 
spawn  pounded  in  a  mortal-  till  quite  smooth, 
an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  half  a  gill  of  cream, 
and  half  a  gill  of  veal  consomme,  cayenne 
pepper,  and  salt,  a  tea-spoonfiil  of  essence 
of  anchovy,  the  same  of  lemon-juice,  and  a 
table-spoonfiil  of  flour  and  water:  stew  it 
five  minutes. 

LOBSTER  PIE.  (1)  Boil  the  lobsters, 
and  cut  the  meat  of  the  tail  into  four  bits ;  take 
out  die  meat  from  die  claws  and  bodies, 
pound  it  in  a  mortar,  add  die  soft  part  of 
one  lobster,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  nutmeg,  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
vinegar ;  melt  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and 
mix  it  with  the  pounded  meat  and  the  crumb 
of  a  slice  of  grated  bread.  Put  puff  paste 
round  the  edge  and  side  of  the  dish ;  put  in 
the  tail  of  the  lobster,  then  a  layer  of  oys- 
ters with  dieir  liquor,  and  next  the  pounded 
meat ;  cover  it  with  a  puff  paste,  and  bake 
it  till  the  paste  be  done.  Before  serving, 
pour  in  some  rich  gravy,  made  of  a  little 
weak  stock  in  which  the  lobster  shells  have 
been  boiled,  with  an  onion,  pepper,  and 
salt,  and  which  has  been  strained  and  thick- 
ened with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

LOBSTER  PIE.  (2)  Take  out,  a^ 
whole  as  possible,  the  meat  from  the  tail 
and  claws  of  two  or  three  boiled  lobsters ; 
cut  diem  into  slices,  and  season  diem  with 
nutmeg,  pepper,  and  salt.  Make  a  force- 
meat of  the  soft  part  of  the  bodies,  together 
with  grated  bread,  some  parsley,  and  one 
anchovy  minced,  grated  lemo)i-i>eel,  mace, 
salt,  and  pepper,  the  yolks  of  two  hard- 
l)oiled  eggs  bruist^l,  and  a  bit  <jf  butter ;  mix 
it  all  together  widi  the  well-beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg,  and  make  it  up  into  small  balls. 
Put  the  lobfeter  into  the  pie-flish,  and  cover 
it  with  the  f6rcemeat  balls,  and  hard-boiled 


yolks  of  eggs;  add  more  dian  half  a  pint  of 
rich  white  stock,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and 
a  table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice  or  vinegai*. 
Cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  only 
till  die  paste  be  done. 

LOBSTER  SAUCE.  Choose  a  fine 
spawny  hen  lobster;  be  sure  it  is  fresh,  pick 
out  the  spawn  and  tlie  red  cx)ral  into  a  mor- 
tar, add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pound 
it  quite  smooth,  and  rub  it  through  a  hair- 
sieve  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon ;  cut 
the  meat  of  die  lobster  into  small  squaies,  or 
pull  it  to  pieces  with  a  fork;  put  the  pound- 
ed spawn  into  as  much  melted  butter  as  you 
think  will  do,  and  sth*  it  together  till  it  is 
dioroughly  mixed ;  now  put  to  it  die  meat 
of  the  lobster,  and  warm  it  on  the  fire ;  take 
care  it  does  not  boil,  which  will  spoil  its 
complexion,  and  its  brilliant  red  color  will 
immediately  fade.  The  above  is  a  very  easy 
and  excellent  manner  of  making  this  sauce. 
Some  use  strong  beef  or  veal  gravy  instead 
of  melted  butter,  adding  anchovy,  cayenne, 
ketchup,  cavice,  lemon-juice,  or  pickle,  or 
wine,  &c. 

LUNCHEON   FOR    AN  INVALID. 

Put  bread  crumbs  and  red  cuirant,  or  any  other 
jelly,  alternately  into  a  tumbler,  and  when 
nearly  half  full,  fill  it  up  with  milk. 


M. 


MACARONI,  TO  MAKE.  Beat  four 
eggs  for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  strain  them, 
and  stir  in  flour  till  stiff  enough  to  work  into 
a  paste  upon  a  marble,  or  stone  slab ;  add 
flour  till  it  be  a  stift' paste,  and  work  it  well ; 
cut  off  a  small  bit  at  a  time,  roll  it  out  as 
diin  as  paper,  and  cut  it  with  a  paste-cut- 
ter or  knife  into  very  narrow  strips ;  twist, 
and  lay  them  upon  a  clean  cloth,  in  a  dry, 
warm  place ;  in  a  few  hours  it  will  be  per- 
fectly hard;  put  it  into  a  box,  with  white 
paper  under  and  over  it.  It  may  be  cut  in- 
to small  stars,  or  circles,  to  be  used  for  soup, 
and  does  not  require  so  much  boiling  as  the 
Italian  Macaroni. 

M  A  CARON I .  The  usual  mode  of  dress- 
ing it  in  England  is  by  adding  a  white 
sauce,  and  Parmesan  or  Cheshire  cheese, 
and  burning  it;  but  this  makes  a  dish  which 
is  proverbially  unwholesome :  its  bad  quali- 
ties arise  from  the  oiled  and  burnt  cheese, 
and  the  half-dressed  flour  and  butter  put  into 
the  white  sauce.  Macaroni  plain  boiled, 
and  some  ri(;li  stock  or  portable  soup  added 
to  it  ([uite  hut,  will  be  found  a  delicious  dish 
and  very  wholesome.  Or,  boil  macaroni  aa 
directed  in  die  receipt  for  the  pudding,  and 


MAC 


113 


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it  quite  hot  in  a  deep  tureen,  and  let 
each  guest  add  grated  Parmesan  and  cold 
>.  butter,  or  oiled  butter  served  hot,  and  it  is 
..excellent;  this  is  die  most  common  Italian 
(mode  of  dressing  it.  Macaroni  with  cream, 
(jdagar,  and  cinnamon,  or  a  little  varicelli 
i«dded  to  the  cream,  makes  a  very  nice  sweet 
I  dish.  See  Macaroni  Pudding  for  the 
Boiling  of  it. 

MACARONI    DRESSED    SWEET. 

Boil  two  ounces  of  macaroni  in  a  pint  of 
milk,  witli  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  good 
,bit  of  cinnamon,  till  the  pipes  are  swelled  to 

,  their  utmost  size  without  breaking.  Lay 
them  on  a  custard-dish,  and  pour  a  custard 

i^.over  them  hot.     Serve  cold. 

^  MACARONI  GRATIN.  Lay  fried 
la-ead  pretty  cljsely  round  a  dish,  boil  your 
.  macaroni  in  the  usual  way,  and  pour  it  into 
.  the  dish ;  smooth  it  all  over,  and  strew  biead- 
,  crumbs  on  it,  then  a  pietty  thick  layer  of 
•  grated  Parmesan  cheese ;  drop  a  little  melt- 
ed butter  on  it,  and  color  it  with  a  salaman- 
der. 

MACARONI  NAPOLITAINE.  Boil 
two  pounds  of  macaroni  for  half  an  hoiu*,  in 
salt  and  water ;  then  put  it  into  a  cullender 
to  drain.  Take  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  cheese  grated;  put  a  layer  of  macaroni, 
in  a  deep  dish  or  tureen,  and  on  it  a  layer 
of  macaroni,  the  cheese,  and  so  on,  alter- 
nately, till  both  are  used  up,  making  the 
cheese  the  top;  pour  over  it  some  gravy, 
melt  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  put  on 
the  whole.     Serve  it  very  hot. 

MACARONI  TO  SERVE.  (1)  Sim- 
mer it  in  a  little  stock,  with  pounded  mace 
and  salt.  When  quile  tender,  take  it  out 
of  the  liquor,  lay  it  in  a  dish,  grate  over  it  a 
good  deal  of  cheese,  then  over  that  put  bread 
grated  very  fine.  Warm  sotne  butter  with- 
out oiling,  and  pour  it  from  a  boat  through 
a  little  earthen  cullender  all  over  the  crums, 
then  put  the  dish  in  a  Dutch  oven  to  ro^ist 
tile  cheese,  and  brown  the  bread  of  a  fine 
color.  The  bread  should  be  in  separate 
crums,  and  look  light. 

MACARONI  TO  SERVE.  (2)  Wash 
it  well,  and  simmer  it  in  half  milk,  and 
half  of  veal  or  mutton  stock,  till  the 
macaroni  is  tender;  then  take  a  spoonful 
of  the  liquor,  put  to  it  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
beaten  in  a  spoonful  of  cream ;  just  make  it 
hot  to  thicken,  but  do  not  let  it  boil;  pour 
it  over  the  macaroni,  and  then  grate  fine  old 
cheese  all  over  it,  and  add  bits  of  butter; 
brown  it  nicely  with  the  salamander. 

MACARONI  STEWED.    Boilaquar- 
10* 


ter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  in  beef  stock,  till 
nearly  done ;  then  strain  it,  and  add  a  gill 
of  cream,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  table  sijoon- 
ful  of  the  essence  of  ham,  three  ounces  of 
gi-ated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  a  little  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt ;  mix  them  over  a  fire  for 
five  minutes,  then  put  it  on  a  dish,  strew 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  over  it,  smooth  it 
over  witli  a  knife,  and  color  it  willi  a  very 
hot  salamander. 

MACARONI  TIMBALE.  Take  some 
puff  paste,  roll  it  thin,  and  cut  it  into  narrow 
bands;  twist  each  into  a  kind  of  cord, 
which  place  round  the  insides  of  buttered 
moulds,  snail  fashion ;  fill  each  mould  with 
macaroni,  cover  the  tops  with  grated  bread, 
and  P;u:mesan  cheese  (equal  quantities  of 
each)  ;  put  the  JHmhales  into  a  warm  oven, 
and  bake  them  three-quarters  of  an  hour; 
tlien  turn  them  on  a  dish,  and  ser\'e. 

MACAROONS.  Take  a  pound  of  sweet 
almonds  blanched,  and  nicely  pounded,  add  a 
little  rose-water  to  prevent  their  oiling;  add 
a  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  then  whisk  the  whites 
of  ten  eggs  to  a  solid  froth,  and  atld  to 
the  above ;  beat  all  togedier  for  some  time. 
Have  ready  wafer  paper  on  tin  plates,  drop 
die  mixture  over  it  separately,  die  size  of  a 
shilling,  or  smaller;  sift  over  them  a  little 
sugar,  and  bal^e  them. 

MACAROONS,  SWEET.  Blanch  a 
pound  of  sweet  alinotids,  throw  diem  into 
cold  water  for  a  few  minutes,  lay  them  in  a 
napkin  to  dry,  and  leave  them  for  twenty- 
four  hours ;  at  the  end  of  Uiat  time,  pound 
them,  a  handful  at  a  time,  adiling  occasion- 
ally some  white  of  egg,  till  the  whole  is  re- 
duced to  a  fine  paste ;  ihan  take  two  pounds 
of  the  best  lump  sugar,  pound  and  sift  it, 
then  put  it  to  the  almoiids,  with  die  grated 
rinds  of  two  lemons ;  beat  these  ingredients 
togedier  in  the  mortar,  adding  one  at  a  time, 
as  many  eggs  as  you  find  necessary  to  moist- 
en the  paste,  which  should  be  thin,  but  not 
too  much  so,  ;is  in  that  case  it  would  lun ; 
your  paste  being  ready,  take  out  a  little  in  a 
spoon,  and  lay  the  macaroons  on  sheets  of 
while  paper  either  round  or  oval,  as  you 
please;  lay  them  at  least  an  inch  apart,  be- 
cause they  spread  in  baking,  and  if  put  near- 
er would  touch.  The  whole  of  your  paste 
being  used,  place  the  sheets  of  paper  on 
tins  in  a  moderate  oven  for  tliree-quarters  of 
an  hour. 

This  kind  of  cake  requires  gi-eat  care  and 
attention ;  it  will  be  well  therefore  to  take 
notice  of  the  following  rules:  1.  To  mind 
that  the  almonds  are  perfectly  dry  before 
you  begin  to  pound  them.  2.  Take  great 
care  that  not  a  particle  of  the  yolk  is  mixed 
with  the  white  of  egg,  \\  hich  would  entirely 


MAC 


114 


MAI 


spoil  the  color  of  the  macaroons,  and  prevent 
their  rising  in  the  oven ;  to  avoid  this,  open 
each  separately,  and  if  perfectly  fresh,  divide 
the  yolk  and  white  witli  great  care.  3.  The 
oven  must  be  no  more  than  moderately  heat- 
ed, nothing  being  more  liable  to  bm-n  than 
almonds  and  sugar ;  by  the  least  negligence 
in  this  respect,  the  surface  would  be  burned, 
whilst  the  inside  would  remain  unbaked. 
The  best  method  to  obviate  any  mischief  of 
this  sort: — put  two  or  three  macaroons  into 
tlie  oven  to  try  it;  leave  them  in  the  usual 
time ;  and  if,  when  you  take  them  out,  they 
ai-e  of  a  clear  yellow,  the  oven  is  properly 
heated,  and  the  whole  of  the  macaroons  may 
then  be  put  in. 

MACKEREL,  TO  CHOOSE.  Their 
gills  should  be  of  a  fine  red,  their  eyes  full, 
and  the  whole  fish  stiff  and  bright;  if  the 
gills  are  of  a  faint  color,  the  fish  limber  and 
wrinkled,  tiiey  are  not  fresh. 

MACKEREL  BAKED.  Cut  off  their 
heads,  open  them,  and  take  out  the  roes  and 
clean  them  thoroughly ;  rub  them  on  die  in- 
side witli  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  put  the 
roes  in  again,  season  tliem  (with  a  mixture 
of  powdered  allspice,  black  pepper,  and 
salt,  well  rubbed  together),  and  lay  them 
close  in  a  baking-pan,  cover  them  with  equal 
quantities  of  cold  vinegar  and  water,  tie 
them  down  with  strong  white  paper  doubled, 
and  bake  them  for  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven. 
They  will  keep  for  a  fortnight. 

MACKEREL  BOILED.  This  fish 
loses  its  life  as  soon  as  it  leaves  the  sea,  and 
the  fi-esher  it  is  the  better.  Wash  and  clean 
them  thoroughly  (the  fishmongers  seldom  do 
tliis  sufficiently),  put  them  into  cold  water 
with  a  handful  of  salt  in  it ;  let  them  rather 
simmer  than  boil ;  a  small  mackerel  will  be 
done  enough  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
when  the  eye  starts  and  the  tail  splits,  they 
are  done ;  do  not  let  them  stand  in  the  wa- 
ter a  moment  after;  they  are  so  delicate 
tluit  the  heat  of  the  water  will  break  them. 

MACKEREL  BROILED.  Clean  a  fine 
large  mackerel,  wi|)e  it  on  a  dry  cloth,  and 
cut  a  long  slit  down  the  back ;  lay  it  on  a 
clean  gridiron,  over  a  very  clear,  slow  fire; 
when  it  is  dune  on  one  side,  turn  it;  be 
careful  that  it  does  not  burn;  .send  it  up 
with  fennel  sauce;  mix  well  together  a 
little  finely  minced  fennel  and  parsley,  sea- 
soned with  a  little  {)epper  and  salt,  a  bit  of 
fresh  butter,  and  when  the  mackerel  are 
i-eady  for  the  table,  put  some  of  this  into 
each  fish. 

MACKEREL,  THE  GERMAN  WAY. 

Split  them  down  the  back,  and  season  them 


with  pepper  and  salt;  broil  them,  and  serve 
with  the  following  sauce;  pick  and  wash 
some  fennel,  parsley,  mint,  tliyme,  and  green 
onions ;  but  use  only  a  small  quantity  of  each. 
Boil  tliem  tender  in  a  little  veal  stock ;  then 
chop  them  up,  and  add  to  tliem  some  fresh 
butter,  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in,  some 
grated  nutmeg,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a 
little  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt.  Let  it  boil, 
thicken  it  with  fiour,  and  serve  in  a  sauce 
boat. 

MADE  DISHES.  Be  carefiil  to  trim 
off  all  the  skin,  gristle,  &c.  that  will  not  be 
eaten ;  and  shape  handsomely,  and  of  even 
thickness,  the  various  articles  which  compose 
your  made  dishes :  this  is  sadly  neglected  by 
common  cooks.  Only  stew  them  till  they 
are  just  tender,  and  do  not  stew  them  to 
rags;  therefore,  what  you  prepare  the  day 
before  it  is  to  be  eaten,  do  not  dress  quite 
enough  the  first  day.  We  have  given  re- 
ceipts for  the  most  easy  and  simple  way  to 
make  hashes,  &c.  Those  who  are  well 
skilled  in  culinary  arts  can  dress  up  things 
in  this  way,  so  as  to  be  as  agreeable  as  they 
were  the  first  time  they  were  cooked. 

MADELAINES.  Take  nine  ounces  of 
powder-sugar,  eight  of  flour,  the  yolks  of 
four  and  six  whole  eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of 
brandy,  and  a  grain  of  salt;  put  these  into 
a  saucepan,  stirring  continually,  until  the 
paste  thickens ;  after  which,  stir  only  one 
minute;  clarify  ten  ounces  of  good  fresh  but- 
ter, with  which,  butter  a!x)ut  two  and  thirty 
madelaine  moulds,  pour  the  remainder  of  the 
butter  into  your  preparation;  set  it  on  a 
gentle  stove,  stir  till  it  begins  to  become  li- 
quid, take  it  off  before  it  has  time  to  get  too 
hot,  put  a  little  of  this  into  each  mould,  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

MADELAINES  IN  SURPRISE. 

Make  them  in  the  usual  way;  when  cold, 
cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  lx)ttom,  take  out 
nearly  all  the  inside;  pound  four  ounces 
of  blanched  filberts,  mix  them  with  ei^jht 
spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade,  which 
mixture  put  into  the  madelaines,  and  place 
the  slice  taken  from  the  bottom,  and  serve 
them. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL,  COLD.     Put  a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
with  some  parsley  and  shallots,  minced  small, 
salt,  whole  pepper,  and  lemon-juice;  mix 
the  whole  together  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
Pour  the  Maitre  d' Hotel  either  over,  un- 
der, or  into  whatever  meat  or  fish  you  in- 
tend to  serve. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  MAIGRE.    Put 

into  some  nicely  melted  butter  a  little  chop- 


MAT 


115 


MIL 


ped  parsley,  salt,  and  lemon-juice;  one  or 
two  minced  shallots  may  be  added,  and  heat 
it  all  together. 

MARCHPANE  ROYAL.  Take  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  blanch  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water,  drain  and  pound  them, 
moistening  with  orange-flower  and  plain 
water,  but  take  care  not  to  put  too  mucii  at 
once.  The  almonds  being  reduced  to  a 
paste,  put  them  into  a  preserving  pan  with 
naif  a  pound  of  powder  sugar,  set  tlie  pan 
on  a  moderate  fire  to  dry  the  paste,  which 
will  be  sufficiently  so  if,  when  you  touch  it, 
it  na  longer  sticks  to  your  finger,  then  take 
it  out  and  place  it  on  a  plate  or  wafer  paper, 
previously  sprinkled  with  sugar:  as  soon  as 
It  is  cold  cut  it  in  pieces,  which  roll  in  your 
hand  to  the  size  of  your  little  finger;  form 
them  into  rings,  and  lay  them  on  iron  gi-at- 
ings,  glaze  and  put  them  into  a  brisk  oven 
to  color.  The  above  paste  may  also  be  em- 
ployed as  follows:  roll  it  out  and  cut  it  in 
half,  spread  over  one  piece  apricot  marma- 
lade, or  any  other  preserve  you  please,  cover 
it  with  the  other  piece,  cut  it  into  lozenges, 
crescents,  &c.,  according  to  your  fancy,  lay 
them  on  the  grating  as  above,  glaze  and  co- 
lor tliem  in  a  quick  oven. 

MARJORAM,  SWEET,  TO  PRE- 
SERVE. Beat  up  very  well  the  white  of 
an  egg,  then  l^eat  very  fine  and  sift  some 
double-refined  sugar;  take  some  marjoram 
and  rub  it  on  a  glass  that  is  quite  clean,  and 
lay  it  in  the  form  of  the  glass ;  so  do  it  with 
tlie  egg,  then  sear  it  with  the  sugar  on  it,  and 
lay  it  on  paper  to  dry. 

MARMALADE.  Marmalade  may  l)e 
composed  of  almost  any  fruits;  the  best, 
however,  for  this  purpose  are,  apricots,  peach- 
es, oranges,  quinces,  egg-plums,  apples,  &c. 
They  are  usually  made  by  boiling  the  fruit 
and  SMgar  togetlier  to  a  kind  of  pulp,  stir- 
ring them  constantly  whilst  on  the  fire;  it  is 
kept  in  pots,  which  must  not  be  covered  till 
the  marmalade  is  quite  cold.  The  propor- 
tion of  sugai-  is  half  a  pound  to  each  {)ound 
of  fruit. 

ICJ^  'See  Names  of  Articles,  of  which 
it  is  made. 

MARROW  BONES.  Chop  the  bones 
at  each  end  so  as  to  stand  steady,  then  wash 
them  clean,  saw  them  in  halves,  cover  the 
top  with  a  fioui"ed  cloth :  boil  them,  and  serve 
with  dry  toast. 

MATELOTE  MEAT.  Take  beef,  veal, 
mutton,  and  pork,  a  large  slice  of  each,  and 
a  small  one  of  leg  of  lamb ;  cut  them  in  small 
pieces,  wliich  put  into  a  saucepan  with  e(|ual 
quantities  of  stock  and  champaign,  salt  and  I 


spices,  cover  them  very  close,  and  set  them 
on  hot  ashes  for  six  hours,  then  serve  it. 

MEAD.  (1)  To  every  gallon  of  water 
put  four  pounds  of  honey,  boii  it  an  hour. 
Then  put  it  into  a  tub  with  some  yeast  on  a 
toast ;  cover  it  over.  If  it  ferments  well  af- 
ter tliree  or  four  days,  draw  it  oflT  clear,  and 
put  it  into  a  cask,  with  one  lemon  sliced  to 
every  gallon ;  add  a  bottle  of  brandy  to  eve- 
ry ten  gallons.  The  rind  of  Seville  oranges 
cut  very  thin,  suspended  in  the  baiTel,  is  a 
great  improvement  to  the  flavor.  It  is  best 
to  wash  the  cask  round  with  .part  of  the 
brandy,  before  the  liquor  is  put  in. 

MEAD.  (2)  One  part  of  honey  is  dissolv- 
ed in  three  parts  of  water,  and  boiled  over  a 
moderate  fire  till  it  is  reduced  to  two-tliirds 
of  the  quantity.  It  is  then  skimmed,  and 
put  into  a  barrel,  which  must  be  quite  full; 
it  is  allowed  to  subside  for  three  or  four  ■ 
days,  and  then  drawn  off*  for  use.  To  make 
it  from  the  combs  from  which  honey  has  been 
drained,  they  are  to  be  beaten  in  warm  wa- 
ter, and  after  the  liquor  has  subsided,  it  is 
to  be  strained.  The  cottagers  in  Scodand 
make  an  excellent  beer  by  adding  a  little 
yeast  to  the  strained  liquor,  and  allowing  it 
to  ferment,  for  a  few  days,  in  a  cask,  and 
tlien  bottling  it. 

MEAT  CAKES.  Take  whatever  meat, 
game,  or  poultry,  you  may  chance  to  have, 
(it  is  the  better  for  being  under-done) ;  mince 
it  fine,  adding  a  little  fet  bacon  or  ham,  or 
anchovy;  season  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt ;  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  make 
it  into  small  cakes,  about  tliree  inches  in 
length,  an  inch  and  a  half  in  width,  and  half 
an  inch  thick ;  fry  them  of  a  light  brown, 
and  serve  them  with  good  giiivy ;  or  put  it 
into  a  mould,  and  boil  or  bake  it. 

MEAT,  TO  KEEP  HOT.  If  your 
meat  is  done  tefore  you  are  ready  to  serve, 
take  it  uj),  set  the  dish  over  a  pan  of  boiling  i 
water,  put  a  deep  cover  over  it,  so  as  not  to 
toucii  tiie  meat,  and  then  put  a  clodi  over 
that.     I'his  way  will  not  di-y  up  the  gravy. 

MILK  COFFEE  FOR  BREAKFAST. 

See  Coffee. 

MILK   PUNCH.     (1)      Beat   up   two 

eggs  well,  mix  them  in  a  quart  of  milk,  su- 
gar, nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel  to  yom-  taste; 
boil  it  gently,  stirring  it  all  the  time  till 
thick  enough;  take  it  off' the  fire  a  very  few 
minutes,  then  add  to  it  a  full  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  rum.  It  must  be  stirred  all  the  time 
tlie  rum  is  pouring  in,  or  it  will  not  be  good. 

MILK  PUNCH.  (2)  Eight  pounds  of  re- 


MIN 


116 


MO^Oie 


fined  sugar  are  to  be  dissolved  in  the  strain- 
ed juice  of  three  dozen  lemons,  and,  when 
quite  settled,  two  gallons  of  brandy,  and  two 
gallons  and  a  half  of  cold  water,  are  to  be 
added,  and  also  the  lemon-peel ;  one  gallon 
of  boiling  milk  being  then  poured  over  die 
ingredients,  they  ai'e  to  stand  closely  covered 
for  twenty-four  hours ;  when,  being  skimmed 
and  run  through  a  very  thick  jelly-bag,  it 
may  be  quickly  bottled,  and  will  be  fit  for 
immediate  use ;  but  it  improves  by  keeping. 

MINCED  COLLOPS.  This  is  a  fa- 
vorite Scotch  dish ;  few  families  ai-e  with- 
out it:  it  keeps  well,  and  is  always  ready  to 
make  an  extra  dish.  Take  beef,  and  chop 
and  mince  it  very  small ;  to  \vhich  add  some 
salt  and  pepper.  Put  this,  in  its  raw  state, 
into  small  jars,  and  pour  on  die  top  some  clar- 
ified butter.  When  intended  for  use,  put  the 
clarified  butter  into  a  fi-ying-pan,  and  slice 
some  onions  into  the  pan,  and  fry  them.  Add 
a  little  water  to  it,  and  then  put  in  the  minced 
meat.  Stew  it  well,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
it  will  be  fit  to  serve  up.     See  Collops. 

MINCE  MEAT.  Two  pounds  of  beef 
suet,  picked  and  chopped  fine;  two  pounds 
of  apple,  pared,  cored,  and  minced ;  three 
pounds  of  currants,  washed  and  f)icked  ;  one 
pound  of  raisins,  stoned  and  chopjied  fine; 
one  pound  of  good  moist  sugar;  half  a  pound 
ofcitron,  and  one  pound  of  candied  lemon 
and  orange-peel,  cut  into  thin  slices;  two 
pounds  of  leady-dressed  roast  beef,  free  from 
skin  and  gristle,  and  chopped  fine ;  two  nut- 
megs, grated;  one  ounce  of  salt,  one  of 
ground  ginger,  half  an  ounce  of  coriander 
seeds,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  half  an  oun«e 
of  cloves,  all  ground  fine ;  the  juice  of  six 
lemons,  and  their  rinds  grated ;  half  a  pint 
of  brandy,  and  a  pint  of  sweet  wine.  Mix 
the  suet,  apples,  currants,  meat-plums,  and 
sweetmeats,  well  together  in  a  large  pan, 
and  strew  in  the  spice  by  degrees;  mix  the 
sugar,  lemon-juice,  wine,  and  brandy,  and 
pour  it  to  the  other  ingredients,  and  stir  it 
M'ell  together ;  set  it  by  in  close-covered  pans 
in  a  cold  place :  when  wanted,  stir  it  up  from 
the  bottom,  and  add  half  a  glass  of  brandy 
to  the  quantity  you  require.  N.  B.— The  same 
weight  of  tripe  is  frequently  substituted  for 
the  meat,  and  sometimes  the  yolks  of  eggs 
boiled  hard.  Obs. — The  lean  side  of  a  but- 
tock, tlioroughly  roasted,  is  generally  chosen 
for  mince  meat. 

MINUTEN  FLEISH.  Cut  from  off  a 
leg  of  veal  some  slices  as  thin  as  the  blade 
of  a  knife,  and  about  four  inches  long;  sea- 
son them  with  pepper  and  salt,  lay  them  in- 
to a  deep  dish,  pour  over  them  nearly  half 
a  pint  of  white  wine,  let  it  stand  for  three 
hours.     Cover  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with 


butter,  dredge  each  slice  of  the  veal  on  both^ 
sides  with  fiour;  add  a  little  more  wine, « 
and  as  much  good  white  stock  as  will  cover 
it,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Cover  the  pan 
closely,  and  let  it  simmer  five  minutes,  and 
serve  it  instantly,  otlierwise  it  will  become 
hard. 

MOCK  ARRACK.  Dissolve  two  scru- 
pies  of  flowers  of  benjamin  in  a  quart  of 
good  mm,  and  it  will  immediately  impart 
to  it  the  inviting  fragrance  of  "  Vauxhall 
nectar." 

MOCK  BRAWN.     See  Brmon.  - 

MOCK  CAPER  SAUCE.  See  Sauce 
Caper. 

MOCK  GOOSE,  OR  LEG  OF  PORK  ' 

ROASTED  WITHOUT  THE  SkiN.      ParboH  i 

it ;  take  off  the  skin,  and  dien  put  it  down  ' 
to  roast;  baste  it  with  butter,  and  make  a  ; 
savory  powder  of  finely  minced,  or  dried  ' 
and  powdered  sage,  ground  black  pcj^per,  '. 
salt,  and  some  bread-crumbs,  rubted  togeth-  . 
er  through  a  colander;  you  may  add  to  this  • 
a  little  very  finely  minced  onion;  sprinkle  it  • 
with  this  when  it  is  almost  roasted.  Put  I 
half  a  pint  of  made  gravy  into  the  dish,  and 
goose  stuffing  under  the  knuckle  skin;  or 
garnish  the  dish  wiUi  balls  of  it  fried  or  ' 
boiled.  « 

MOCK  ICE.  Of  preserved  strawber- 
ries, raspberries,  and  red  currant  jelly,  a 
table-spoonful  each ;  rub  it  through  a  sieve, 
with  as  much  cream  as  will  fill  a  shape ; 
di.stolve  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  isin- 
glass in  half  a  pint  of  water;  when  almost 
cold,  mix  it  well  widi  the  cream,  put  it  into 
a  sha|)e,  set  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  turn  it 
out  the  following  day. 

MOCK  TURTLE.  See  Soup  Calf's 
Head. 

MOORFOWL,  TO  STEW.  Truss; 
them,  keeping  on  their  heads,  but  draw  the ; 
legs  within  the  body;  mix  well  some  salt 
and  pepper  with  flour  and  a  piece  of  hiuter, 
and  put  a  small  bit  into  each  bird;  fry  tliem 
all  over  of  a  nice  brown  in  butter.  Brown 
some  butter  and  fiour,  and  add  to  it  some  good 
gravy,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  and 
two  cloves  pounded;  boil  up  the  sauce,  put 
in  the  moorfovvl,  and  let  tliem  stew  very 
slowly  till  tender.  A  little  before  taking 
them  off  tlie  fire,  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  ketchup.  If  the  birds  are  old, 
stew  them  for  two  hours;  if  young  ones, 
half  that  time.  Cold  roasted  moorfowl  are 
dressed  exactly  in  the  same  way  only  cut 
into  joints,  and  stev/ed  very  gently  nearly  as 


MUS 


117 


MUS 


long.     Half  an  hour  before  sei-ving,  a  small 
Hea-cupful  of  Port  wine  should  be  added. 

MUFFINS.  (1)  Take  one  pint  of  milk 
quite  warm,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick 
small-beer  yeast;  strain  tliem  into  a  pan,  and 
add  sufficient  flour  to  make  it  like  a  batter ; 
cover  it  over,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm 
place  until  it  has  risen ;  tiien  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  and  one  ounce  of 
butter  rubbed  in  some  flour  quite  fine ;  mix 
them  well  together  :  then  add  sufficient  flour 
to  make  it  into  dough,  cover  it  over,  and 
let  it  stand  half  an  hour ;  tlien  work  it  up 
again,  and  break  it  into  small  pieces:  roll 
them  up  quite  round,  and  cover  tliem  over 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  bake  them. 

MUFFINS.  (2)  Mix  two  pounds  of 
lour  with  a  cou|jle  of  eggs,  two  ounces  of 
outter  melted  in  a  pint  of  milk,  and  four  or 
five  spoonfuls  of  yeast ;  beat  it  thoroughly, 
and  set  it  to  rise  two  or  three  hours.  Bake 
it  on  a  hot  liearth  in  flat  cakes,  and  turn 
them,  when  done,  on  one  side. 

MUFFINS.  (3)  Take  two  quarts  of 
warm  water,  two  spoonfuls  of  yeast,  dn-ee 
pounds  of  flour;  beat  it  well  for  half  an 
hour,  and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  two ;  bake 
Uiem  on  an  iron  baking-stove  (rub  it  well 
over  wiUi  uiutton-suet  as  often  as  they  are 
laid  on) ;  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  color, 
turn  tliem;  diey  will  be  sufiiciently  baked 
when  colored  on  botli  sides. 

MULLAGATAWNY.  Boil  slowly  in 
two  quarts  of  water  one  pound  of  split  peas, 
half  an  ounce  of  butter,  two  onions  sliced,  a 
little  salt,  cayenne,  and  two  bladfcs  of  mace. 
When  the  peas  are  tender,  put  in  a  large 
fowl,  cut  in  joints  and  skinned,  two  (juarts 
of  boiling  water,  or  stock,  if  the  soup  be  re- 
quired very  rich ;  twenty  minutes  beibre 
sending,  add  a  large  table  spoonful  of  curi-y- 
powder,  and  Uie  same  of  ground  rice. 

rrj^  For  Mullagatawny  Soup,  see 
Soups. 

MULLED  WINE.  Put  into  a  pint  of 
Port  witie  two  or  three  cloves  and  a  bit  of 
cinnamon ;  boil  it  for  a  few  moments ;  take 
out  die  spice,  sweeten  it  with  loaf  sugar, 
and  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg.  Serve  with  a 
slice  of  toasted  bread,  the  crust  pared  off", 
and  cut  into  oblong  pieces.  The  Port  wine 
is  sometimes  boiled  widi  a  tliird  of  its  quan- 
tity of  water. 

MUSHROOMS,  TO  CHOOSE.    The 

mushrooms   proper   to  be  used  in   cookery 
grow  in  tlie  open  pasture  land,  for  those  that 


grow  near  or  under  trees,  are  poisonoas. 
Tlie  eatable  mushrooms  first  appear  very 
small,  and  of  a  round  form,  on  a  little  stalk. 
They  grow  very  rapidly,  and  tlie  upper  part 
and  stalk  are  white.  As  they  increase  in 
size,  the  under  part  gradually  opens,  and 
shows  a  fringed  fur  of  a  very  fine  salmon  co- 
lor, which  continues  more  or  less  till  the 
mushroom  has  gained  some  size,  and  then 
turns  to  a  dark  brown.  These  marks  should 
be  attended  to,  and  likewise  whether  the 
skin  can  be  easily  parted  from  the  edge 
and  middle,  and  whether  they  have  a  pleas- 
ant smell.  Those  which  are  poisonous  have 
a  yellow  skin,  and  die  under  part  has  not  die 
clear  flesh  color  of  the  real  mushroom ;  be- 
sides which,  they  smell  rank  and  disagreea<». 
ble,  and  the  fur  is  white  or  yellow. 

MUSHROOM    KETCHUP.      If  you 

love  good  ketchup,  gentle  reader,  make  it 
yourself,  after  the  following  directions,  and 
you  will  have  a  delicious  relish  for  made- 
dishes,  ragouts,  soups,  sauces,  or  hashes. 

Mushroom  gravy  approaches  the  nature 
and  flavor  of  meat  gravy,  more  than  any  vege- 
table juice,  and  is  the  superlative  substitute 
for  it:  in  meagre  soups  and  extempore  gra- 
vies, the  chemistry  of  the  kitchen  has  yet 
contrived  to  agreeably  awaken  the  palate, 
and  encourage  die  appetite. 

A  couple  of  quarts  of  double  ketchup, 
made  according  to  the  following  receipt, 
will  save  you  some  score  pounds  of  meat, 
besides  a  vast  deal  of  time  and  trouble ;  as  it 
will  furnish,  in  a  few  minutes,  as  good  sauce 
as  can  be  made  for  either  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl. 

I  believe  the  following  is  die  best  way  of 
extracting  and  preparing  die  essence  of 
mushrooms,  so  as  to  procure  and  preserve 
their  flavor  for  a  considerable  lengdi  of  time. 

Look  out  for  mushrooms  from  die  begin- 
ning of  Septemlxjr. 

Take  care  they  are  the  right  sort,  and 
fresh  gathered.  Full-grown  flaps  are  to  be 
prefer)  ed :  put  a  layer  of  these  at  the  bottom 
of  a  deep  cardien  pan,  and  sprinkle  them 
with  salt ;  then  another  layer  of  mushrooms, 
and  some  more  salt  on  them ;  and  so  on  al- 
ternately, salt  and  mushrooms:  let  them  re- 
main two  or  thi-ee  hours,  by  which  time  the 
salt  will  have  penetrated  the  mushrooms,  and 
rendered  them  easy  to  break ;  then  pound 
them  in  a  mortar,  or  mash  diem  well  with 
your  hands,  and  let  them  remain  for  a  couple 
of  days,  not  longer,  stirring  them  up,  and 
mashing  them  well  each  day ;  then  |X)ur  them 
into  a  stone  jar,  and  to  each  quart  add  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  whole  black  pepper,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  allspice;  stop  the  jar  very 
close,  and  set  it  in  a  stewpan  of  b<jiling  wa- 
ter and  keep  it  boiling  for  two  hours  at  least. 
Take  out  the  jar,  and  pour  the  juice  clear 


MUS 


118 


MUX 


Scorn  the  settlings  through  a  hair  sieve  (without 
squeezing  the  mushrooms)  into  a  clean  stew- 
pan;  let  it  boil  very  gently  for  half  an  hour: 
those  who  are  for  superlative  ketchup,  will 
continue  the  boiling  till  the  mushroom-juice 
is  reduced  to  half  the  quantity ;  it  may  then 
be  called  double  cat-sup  or  dog-sup. 

There  are  several  advantages  attending 
this  concentration ;  it  will  keep  much  better, 
and  only  half  the  quantity  lie  required;  so 
you  can  flavor  sauce,  &c.  without  thinning 
It:  neither  is  this  an  extravagant  way  of 
making  it,  for  merely  the  aqueous  part  is 
evaporated ;  skim  it  well,  and  pour  it  into  a 
clean  dry  jar,  or  jug ;  cover  it  close,  and  let 
it  stand  in  a  cool  place  till  next  day ;  then 
pour  it  off  as  gently  as  possible  (so  as  not  to 
disturb  die  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the 
jug,)  through  a  tamis,  or  thick  flannel  bag, 
till  it  is  perfectly  clear ;  add  a  table-spoon- 
fid  of  good  bi*andy  to  each  pint  of  ketchup, 
and  let  it  stand  as  l)efore;  a  fresh  sediment 
will  be  deposited,  from  which  the  ketchup  is 
to  be  quietly  poured  off,  and  bottled  in  pints 
or  half  pints  (which  have  been  washed  with 
brandy  or  spirit):  it  is  best  to  keep  it  in 
such  quantities  as  are  soon  used. 

Take  especial  cai-e  that  it  is  closely  cork- 
ed, and  sealed  down,  or  dipped  in  bottle  ce- 
ment. 

If  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  it  may  be 
preserved  for  a  long  time ;  but  if  it  be  badly 
corked,  and  kept  in  a  damp  place,  it  will 
soon  spoil. 

Examine  it  from  time  to  time,  by  plac- 
ing a  strong  light  behind  the  neck  of  the 
bottle,  and  if  any  pellicle  appears  about  it, 
boil  it  up  again  witli  a  few  peppercoi-ns. 

MUSHROOMS    TO    PICKLE.     Cut 

offtlie  stalks,  and  wash  clean,  in  cold  wa- 
ter, some  small  button  mushrooms ;  rub  them 
with  a  bit  of  flannel,  then  tlirow  them  into 
fi'esh  water,  and  when  perfectly  clean,  put  ! 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  fresh  cold  water, 
and  let  them  boil  eight  or  ten  minutes;  strain  i 
off  the  water,  lay  them  into  riie  folds  of  a  i 
clotli.     Boil,  in  a  quart  of  vinegar,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice,  ' 
and  two  or  three  blades  of  mace,  and  a  tea-  '■. 
spoonful  of  salt ;  put  the  mushrooms  into  a  j 
jar,  and  when  Uie  vinegar  is  cold,  pour  it,  I 
with  tlie  spices,  over  them. 

MUSHROOMS    TO    STEW.    For  a 

good-sized  dish,  take  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
season  it  withsalt,  pepper,  and  a  little  lemon 
pickle,  thicken  it  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour;  cleanse  and  peel  the  mushrooms, 
sprinkle  them  witli  a  very  little  salt,  boil 
them  for  tliree  or  four  minutes,  put  them  into 
the  gravy  when  it  is  hot,  and  stew  them  for 
fifteen  minutes, 


MUSTARD.  Mix  (by  degrees,  by  rub- 
bing together  in  a  moitar)  the  best  flour  of 
mustard,  with  vinegar,  white  wine,  or  cold 
water,  in  which  scraped  horseradish  has 
been  boiled;  rub  it  well  together  for  at  least 
ten  minutes,  till  it  is  perfectly  smooth;  it 
will  keep  in  a  stone  jar  closely  stopped,  for  a 
fortnight :  only  put  as  much  into  tlie  mustard- 
pot  as  will  be  used  in  a  day  or  two.  Obs. — 
Mustard  is  the  best  of  all  the  stimulants  that 
are  employed  to  give  energy  to  the  digestive 
organs.  Some  opulent  epicures  mix  it  with 
Sherry  or  Madeira  wine,  or  distilled  or  fla- 
vored vinegar,  instead  of  horseradish  water. 
The  French  flavor  tlieir  mustard  with  Cham- 
paigne  and  other  wines,  or  with  vinegar  fla- 
vored with  capers,  anchovies,  tarragon,  elder, 
basil,  burnet,  garlic,  eschalot,  or  celery, 
warming  it  with  cayenne,  or  the  various 
spices;  sweet,  savory,  fine  herbs,  truffles, 
ketchup,  &c.  &c.,  and  seem  to  consider 
mustard  merely  as  a  vehicle  of  flavoi-s. 

MUSTARD   IN   A    MINUTE.     Mix 

very  gradually,  and  rubtogetlier  in  a  mortar, 
an  ounce  of  flour  of  mustard,  with  three  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  milk  (cream  is  better),  half 
a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  die  same  of  sugar;' 
nib  them  well  together  till  quite  smooth. 
Obs. — Mustard  made  in  this  manner  is  not 
at  all  bitter,  and  is  tlierefore  instantly  ready 
for  the  table. 

MUTTON.  (1)  The  pipe  that  runs  along 
the  bone  of  the  inside  of  a  chine  of  mutton 
ought  to  be  taken  away;  and  if  it  is  to  be 
kept  any  length  of  time,  the  part  close  round 
the  tail  should  be  rublied  with  salt,  previously 
cutting  out  the  kernel. 

It  is  test  for  the  butcher  to  take  out  the 
kernel  in  die  fat  on  the  thick  part  of  the  leg, 
as  that  is  the  part  most  likely  to  become 
tainted.  The  chine  and  rib-bones  should  be 
wiped  every  day ;  and  die  bloody  part  of  the 
neck  be  cut  off,  in  order  to  preserve  it.  The 
brisket  changes  first  in  the  breast;  therefore, 
if  it  is  to  be  kept,  it  is  l)est,  should  the 
weather  be  hot,  to  rub  it  with  a  little  salt. 

When  intended  for  roasting,  it  should  hang 
as  long  as  it  will  keep,  the  hind  quarter 
particularly ;  but  not  so  long  as  to  become 
tainted. 

Mutton  for  boiling  ought  not  to  liang 
long,  as  it  will  prevent  its  looking  of  a  good 
color. 

The  greatest  care  should  be  taken  to  pre- 
serve, by  paper,  the  fet  of  what  is  roasted. 

MUTTON.  (2)  As  beef  requires  a  large, 
sound  fire,  mutton  must  have  a  brisk  and 
sharp  one.  If  you  wish  to  have  mutton 
tender,  it  should  be  hung  almost  as  long  as 
it  will  keep;  and  tlien  good  eight-tooth,  i.  e. 


MUT 


119 


MUT 


fi>ur  years  old  mutton,  is  as  good  eating  as 
venison. 

The  leg,  haunch,  and  saddle  will  be  die 
better  for  being  hung  up  in  a  cool  airy  place 
for  four  or  five  days  at  least;  in  temperate 
weathei",  a  week ;   in  cold  weaUier,  ten  days. 

A  Leg,  of  eight  pounds,  will  take  about 
two  hours:  let  it  be  well  basted,  and  frothed. 

A  Chine  or  Saddle,  (i.  e.  the  two  loins) 
of  ten  or  eleven  pounds,  two  hours  and  a 
half:  it  is  the  business  of  the  butcher  to  take 
off  the  skin  and  skewer  it  on  again,  to  defend 
the  meat  from  extreme  heat,  and  preserve  its 
succulence ;  if  tliis  is  neglected,  tie  a  sheet 
of  paper  over  it  (baste  the  strings  you  tie  it 
on  with  directly,  or  they  will  burn) :  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  before  you  think  it  will 
be  done,  take  off  the  skin  or  paper,  that  it 
may  get  a  pale  brown  color,  then  baste  it  and 
floui'  it  lightly  to  froth  it.  N.  B.  Desire 
the  butcher  to  cut  off  tlie  flaps  and  the  tail 
and  chump  end,  and  trim  away  every  part 
that  has  not  indisputable  pretensions  to  be 
eaten.  This  will  reduce  a  saddle  of  eleven 
pounds  weight  to  about  six  or  seven  pounds. 

A  Shoulder,  of  seven  pounds,  an  hour  and 
a  half.  Put  the  spit  in  close  to  the  shank- 
bone,  and  nin  it  along  the  blade-bone. 
N.B.  The  blade-bone  is  a  favorite  luncheon 
or  supper  relish,  scored,  peppered  and  salt- 
ed, and  broiled,  or  done  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

A  Loin,  of  mutton,  from  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  an  hour  and  three-quarters.  The 
most  elegant  way  of  carving  this,  is  to  cut  it 
lengthwise,  as  you  do  a  saddle.  N.  B.  Spit 
it  on  a  skewer  or  lark  spit,  and  tie  that  on 
tlie  common  spit,  and  do  not  spoil  the  meat 
by  running  the  spit  through  die  prime  part 
of  it. 

A  Neck,  about  the  same  time  as  a  loin. 
It  must  be  carefully  jointed,  or  it  is  very 
difficult  to  carve.  The  neck  and  breast  are, 
in  small  families,  commonly  roasted  together ; 
the  cook  will  then  crack  the  bones  across  the 
middle  before  tliey  are  put  down  to  roast :  if 
tliis  is  not  done  carefully,  they  are  very 
ti-oublesome  to  carve.  Tell  die  cook,  when 
she  takes  it  from  the  spit,  to  separate  them 
before  she  sends  them  to  table.  N.  B.  The 
best  way  to  spit  this  is  to  run  iron  skewers 
across  it,  and  put  the  spit  between  them. 

A  Breast,  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

MUTTON,  BAKED  WITH  POTA- 
TOES.    See  Beef. 

MUTTON    BREAST     COLLARED. 

Bone  it  and  take  out  all  the  gristles, 
make  a  forcemeat  with  cmmbs  of  bread, 
chopped  parsley,  a  little  lemon  diyme,  and 
one  anchovy  minced;  season  with  salt  and 
while  pepper,  nib  the  mutton  over  with  an 
egg  beaten  up,  cover  it  with  die  fijrcemeat, 
roll  it  fiimly ;  tie  it  with  tape,  and  put  it  on 


in  boiling  water.  Make  a  good  gravy  of 
die  bones,  two  onions,  a  bunch  of  pai-sley 
and  lemon  thyme,  pepper  and  salt;  strain 
and  thicken  it  with  a  piece  of  butter  mixed 
with  flour.  A  little  before  serving,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar  and  two  of  mush- 
room ketchup.  Garnish  with  cut  lemon  or 
pickles. 

MUTTON,  BREAST,  ROASTED 
WITH  Wine.  Skin  and  bone  a  breast  of 
mutton,  then  roll  it  up  in  a  collar  like  a 
breast  of  veal.  Roast  it,  and  baste  it  with 
half  a  pint  of  red  wine ;  when  you  have  used 
up  all  the  wine,  finish  basting  with  butter. 
Have  a  little  good  gravy  in  readiness,  and 
when  the  mutton  is  done,  set  it  upright  in  a 
dish,  pour  in  the  gravy,  prepare  sweet  sauce 
the  same  as  for  venison,  and  send  it  up  to 
table  without  any  garnish. 

MUTTON  BROTH.  Cut  a  neck  of 
mutton  into  pieces,  preserving  a  handsome 
piece  to  be  served  up  in  the  tureen ;  put  all 
into  a  stewpan  with  three  quarts  of  cold  beef 
stock,  or  water,  widi  a  litde  oatmeal  mixed 
in  it ;  some  turnips,  onions,  leeks,  celei-y  cut 
in  pieces,  and  a  small  bunch  of  diyme  and 
parsley.  When  it  boils,  skim  it  clean,  and 
when  nearly  done,  take  out  the  piece  you  in- 
tend to  serve  in  the  tureen,  and  let  the  other 
pieces  stew  till  tender ;  then  have  ready  tur- 
nips cut  into  dice,  some  leeks,  celery,  half  a 
cabbage,  some  parsley,  all  cut  small,  and 
some  marigolds ;  wash  them,  strain  the  li- 
quor off  die  meat,  skim,  it  fiee  from  the  fat, 
add  it  to  the  ingredients  with  the  piece  of 
mutton  intended  for  the  tureen,  adding  a  lit- 
tle pearl  barley.  Season  with  salt,  simmer 
all  together  till  done,  and  serve  with  toasted 
bread  on  a  plate. 

MUTTON  CHOPS.  Cut  the  chops 
off  a  loin  or  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton, 
pare  off  die  fat,  dip  them  into  a  beaten  egg, 
and  strew  over  them  grated  bread,  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  some  finely  minced 
parsley ;  fry  them  in  a  little  butter,  and  lay 
them  upon  the  back  of  a  sieve  to  drain  be- 
fore the  fire.  Thicken  about  half  a  pint  of 
gravy,  add  a  table-sjxionful  of  ketchup,  and 
one  of  Port  wine ;  put  the  gravy  into  the  dish, 
and  lay  in  die  chops;  garnish  with  fried 
parsley  or  cut  lemon. 

MUTTON  CHOPS,  BAKED.  Cut  a 

neck  of  mutton  into  neat  chops,  season  them 
with  salt  and  |iepper,  butter  a  dish,  lay  in 
the  chops  and  pour  over  diem  a  batter  made 
of  a  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs  beaten  up,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  a  litde  salt.  An 
hour  will  bake  them. 

MUTTON    CHOPS    MAINTENON. 


MUX 


120 


MUT 


Cut  a  neck  of  mutton  into  chops ;  beat  them 
flat  with  a  rolling-pin.  Bruise  the  yolk  of 
a  hard-boiled  egg,  and  mix  with  it  chopped 
sweet  herbs,  grated  bread,  nutmeg,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Cover  the  steaks  with  it,  and  put 
each'  into  a  piece  of  well-buttered  paper ; 
bi-oil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  of- 
ten. SerA'e  them  in  the  paper,  or  with  a 
browned  gravy. 

MUTTON  CUTLETS.  Cut  into  cut- 
'lets  a  pound  and  a  half  of  the  thick  part  of 
a  leg  of  mutton,  and  beat  them ;  mix  with 
grated  bread  crumbs,  some  pepper,  salt,  and 
finely  chopped  parsley,  lemon  tliyme,  and 
sweet  marjoram.  Rub  the  cutlets  with  melt- 
ed butter,  and  cover  them  thickly  witli  the 
prepared  bread ;  fi-y  them  for  ten  minutes  in 
butter,  tlien  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
gome  good  gravy  thickened  with  flour  and 
butter,  and  simmer  tliem  for  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes. 

MUTTON  FILLET,  STEWED.   Put 

a  fillet  of  mutton  or  a  piece  of  beef,  weigh- 
ing about  seven  pounds,  into  a  slewpan,  with 
a  caiTot,  a  turnip,  an  onion  stuck  with  two 
or  three  cloves,  and  a  pint  of  water.  Put 
round  the  edge  of  the  stewpan,  a  rim  of 
coarse  paste,  that  the  cover  may  be  kept 
very  close,  and  let  it  stew  gently,  three  hours 
and  a  half;  take  out  the  meat,  skim  off  the 
fiit,  strain  and  thicken  the  gi"avy,  have  ready 
some  boiled  carrots  and  turnips  cut  to  fancy, 
add  them  to  the  gravy,  make  all  hot,  and 
serve  widi  a  garnish  of  sliced  gherkins. 

MUTTON  CUTLETS  Breaded  and 
Broiled.  Trim  and  season  yoiu-  cutlets 
witli  pepper  and  salt,  put  tliem  into  some 
melted  butter,  and  when  they  have  imbibed 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  it,  take  them  out,  and 
cover  them  completely  widi  biead  crumbs ; 
give  the  cutlets  a  good  shape,  and  broil  them 
over  a  clear  fire ;  tiike  care  not  to  do  the  cut- 
lets too  much,  to  burn  the  bread. 

MUTTON  GRAVY  FOR  VENISON 
OR  Hare.  The  best  gravy  for  venison  is" 
that  made  with  the  trimmings  of  the  joint: 
if  this  is  all  used,  and  you  have  no  undressed 
venison,  cut  a  scrag  of  mutton  in  pieces ; 
broil  it  a  little  brown ;  then  put  it  into  a 
clean  stewpan,  witli  a  quart  of  boiling  wa- 
ter ;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
for  an  hour:  now  uncover  the  stewpan,  and 
let  it  reduce  to  duree-quarters  of  a  pint ;  pcmr 
it  through  a  hair-sieve ;  take  the  fat  oflf,  and 
send  it  up  in  a  boat.  It  is  only  to  be  sea- 
soned witli  a  little  salt,  that  it  may  not  over- 
power the  natm*al  flavor  of  the  meat. 

MUTTON,  TO  HASH.  Cut  tlie  meat 
into  thin  slices,  trim  off"  all  the  sinews,  skin. 


gristle,  &c. ;  put  in  notliing  but  what  is  tD 
be  eaten,  lay  tliem  on  a  plate,  ready;  pre- 
pare youi-  sauce  to  warm  it  in,  pnt  in  the 
meat,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  it  is  thor- 
oughly warm:  do  not  let  it  boil,  as  that  will 
make  the  meat  tough  and  hard,  and  it  will 
be  a  hai-sh,  instead  of  a  hash.  Select  for 
your  hash  those  parts  of  the  joint  that  are 
least  done.  Hashing  is  a  mode  of  cookery 
by  no  means  suited  to  delicate  stomachs: 
unless  tlie  meat,  be  considerably  under-done 
the  first  time,  a  second  dressing  must  spoil 
it,  for  what  is  done  enough  the  first  time, 
must  Ije  done  too  much  tlie  second. 

MUTTON  HAM,  TO  CURE.    Cut  si 

hind  quarter  of  good  mutton  into  the  shape  of 
a  ham,  pound  one  ounce  of  saltpeti'e,  with 
one  pound  of  coai'se  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  brown  sugar,  rub  the  ham  well  with 
this  mixture,  taking  care  to  stuff"  the  hole  of 
the  shank  well  with  salt  and  sugar,  and  let 
it  lie  a  fortnight,  rubbing  it  well  with  the 
pickle  e\  ery  two  or  three  days ;  then  take 
it  out  and  press  it  with  a  weight  for  one 
day ;  smoke  it  with  saw-dust  for  ten  or  fif- 
teen days,  or  hang  it  to  di^  in  the  kitchen. 
If  tlie  ham  is  to  be  boiled  soon  afi;er  it  has 
been  smoked,  soak  it  one  hour,  and  if  it  has 
been  smoked  any  length  of  time  it  will  re- 
quire to  be  soaked  several  hours.  Put  it  on 
in  cold  water,  and  boil  it  gently  two  hours. 
It  is  eaten  cold  at  breakfast,  luncheon,  or 
supper.  A  mutton  ham  is  sometimes  cured 
with  the  above  quantity  of  salt  and  sugar, 
with  the  addition  of  half  an  ounce  of  pepper, 
a  cjuarter  of  an  ounce  of  cloves,  and  one  nut- 
meg. 

MUTTON  HAUNCH,  LIKE  VENI- 
SON. Take  a  fat  haunch  of  large  fine 
mutton,  let  it  hang  a  week,  then  pound 
one  ounce  of  black,  and  one  ounce  of  Jamai- 
ca pepper,  and  nib  them  o\er  the  mutton, 
pour  a  lx)ttle  of  Port  wine  over  it,  and  let  it 
remain  in  this  five  days,  basting  it  frequent- 
ly every  day  with  tlie  liquor,  take  it  out  and 
hang  it  up  four  or  five  days  more,  or  as  long 
as  the  weather  favors  its  keeping;  wipe  it 
tliree  or  four  times  a  day  with  a  clean  clolli. 
While  it  is  roasting  baste  it  with  tiie  liquor 
it  was  steeped  in,  adding  a  little  more  Port 
wine;  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  taking  it 
from  the  fire,  baste  it  well  with  butter,  and 
dredge  flour  over  it  to  fi-oth  it  up.  Serve  it 
with  sauces  as  for  venison. 

MUTTON  HAUNCH.  It  should 
be  kept  as  long  as  you  can  possibly  keep  it 
sweet  by  tlie  different  modes ;  and  if  neces- 
sary, wash  it  with  warm  milk  and  water, 
or  vinegar,  and  when  going  to  be  dressed,  be 
carefid  to  wash  it  well,  to  prevent  the  out- 
side fi'om  having  a  bad  flavor  from  keeping ; 


MUT 


121 


MUT 


you  put  the  haunch  to  the  fire,  fold  it 
in  a  paste  of  coarse  flour,  or  strong  paper ; 
then  set  it  a  good  distance  from  the  fire,  and 
allow  proportionable  time  for  tlie  paste ;  do 
not  take  it  off,  till  about  thirty -five  or  forty 
minutes  before  serving  tlie  mutton,  and  then 
baste  continually ;  bring  the  haunch  nearer 
before  taking  off  the  paste,  and  froth  it  up 
in  the  same  manner  as  venison.  For  g»"avy, 
take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  loin  of  mutton, 
and  simmer  it  in  a  pint  of  water  till  reduced 
to  half,  use  no  seasoning  but  salt :  brown  it 
with  a  little  burnt  sugar,  and  serve  it  up  in 
the  dish ;  but  there  should  be  a  good  deal  of 
gravy  in  the  meat,  for  though  long  at  the  fire, 
Sie  covering  and  distance  will  prevent  its 
roasting  out.    Serve  with  currant-jlelly  sauce. 

MUTTON  LEG.  (1)  If  your  leg 
of  mutton  is  roasted,  sei-ve  with  onion  or 
currant-jelly  sauce ;  if  it  is  boiled,  serve  with 
caper-sauce  and  vegetables.  In  roasting  or 
boiling,  a  quarter  of  an  hour  is  usually  allow- 
ed for  each  pound  of  meat. 

MUTTON  LEG.  (2)  Cut  off  the  shank 
bone,  and  trim  the  knuckle,  put  it  into  luke- 
warm water  for  ten  minutes,  wash  it  clean, 
cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  gently,  and  skim  it  carefully.  A  leg 
of  nine  pounds  will  take  two  and  a  half  or 
three  hours,  if  you  like  it  thoroughly  done, 
especially  in  very  cold  weather. 

The  tit-bits  with  an  epicure  are  the 
"  knuckle,"  the  kernel,  called  the  "pope's 
eye,"  and  the  "  gentleman's"  or  "  cramp 
bone." 

When  mutton  is  very  large,  you  may  di- 
vide it,  and  roast  the  fillet,  i.  e.  the  large 
end,  and  boil  the  knuckle  end;  you  may 
also  cut  some  fine  cutlets  off  the  thick  end 
of  the  leg,  and  so  have  two  or  three  good 
hot  dinners. 

The  liquor  the  mutton  is  boiled  in,  you 
may  convert  into  good  soup  in  five  minutes, 
and  Scotch  barley  broth.  Thus  managed,  a 
leg  of  mutton  is  a  most  economical  joint. 

MUTTON  LEG  STUFFED.  Make 
a  stuffing  with  a  little  beef-suet  chopped, 
some  parsley,  thyme,  marjoram,  a  little 
grated  lemon,  nutmeg  grated,  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  few  bread  crumte,  mix  all  together 
with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  put  this  under  the 
skin  in  the  thickest  part  of  a  leg  of  mutton 
under  the  flap;  then  roast  it,  and  serve  it  to 
table  witli  some  good  gravy  in  the  dish. 

MUTTON  LEG  STUFFED  with 
Oysters.  Make  a  forcemeat  of  beef-suet, 
chopped  small,  the  yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs, 
with  lliree  anchovies,  a  little  onion,  thyme, 
savory,  and  some  oysters,  a  dozen  or  fourteen, 


all  cut  fine,  some  salt,  pepper,  grated  nut- 
meg, and  crumbs  of  bread,  mixed  up  with 
raw  eggs ;  put  this  forcemeat  under  the  skin 
in  the  thickest  part  of  the  leg  of  mutton,  un- 
der the  flap,  and  at  the  knuckle.  For  sauce, 
some  oyster-liquor,  a  little  red  wine,  an  an- 
chovy, and  some  more  oysters  stewed,  and 
served  under  the  mutton. 

MUTTON  LOIN.  Roast  it;  some 
people  think  it  eats  much  better  if  cut  length- 
ways like  a  saddle.  It  may  also  be  used 
for  steaks,  pies,  or  broth,  only  taking  care 
to  cut  off  as  much  fat  as  possible. 

MUTTON  LOIN,  STEWED.    Bone 

and  skin  the  loin;  stew  it  in  a  pint  of 
water,  turning  it  frequently;  when  the  li- 
quor is  half  wasted,  take  out  the  loin  and 
strain  it,  and  when  cold  take  off  the  fat^ 
make  a  rich  highly-seasoned  gravy  of  the 
bones;  strain  and  mix  it  with  the  liquor  the 
loin  was  stewed  in;  add  a  tea-cupful  of 
Port  wine,  and  some  small  mushrooms; 
thicken  the  sauce  with  butter  rolled  in  flour ; 
put  in  the  mutton,  and  heat  it  thoroughly; 
garnish  with  pickles. 

MUTTON  NECK.  (1)  This  joint  is 
particularly  useful,  as  so  many  dishes  may 
be  made  of  it.  The  bone  ought  to  be  cut 
short.  , 

The  best  end  of  the  neck  may  be  boiled, 
and  served  with  turnips;  or  if  you  think 
proper,  it  may  be  roasted,  or  dressed  in 
steaks,  or  made  into  pies,  or  used  for  harrico. 

You  may  stew  the  scrags  in  brotli ;  or  in 
a  little  water,  with  small  onions,  some  pep- 
percorns, and  a  small  quantity  of  rice,  all 
served  together. 

When  you  wish  that  a  neck  which  is  to 
be  boiled  should  look  particularly  well,  saw 
down  the  chine  bone,  strip  the  ribs  half 
way  down,  and  chop  off  the  ends  of  the 
bones,  about  four  inches. 

To  make  the  fat  look  particularly  white, 
the  skin  should  not  be  taken  off  till  it  is 
boiled. 

The  fat  belonging  to  the  neck  or  loin  of 
mutton,  if  chopped  very  fine,  makes  a  most 
excellent  suet-pudding,  or  crust  for  a  meat 
pie. 

MUTTON  NECK.  (2)  Put  four  or 
five  pounds  of  the  best  end  of  a  neck  (that 
has  been  kept  a  few  days)  into  as  much  cold 
soft  water  as  will  cover  it,  and  about  two 
inches  over;  let  it  simmer  very  slowly  for 
two  hours:  it  will  look  most  delicate  if  you 
do  not  take  off  the  skin  till  it  has  lieen  boil- 


MUTTON  PASTY,  to  eat  as  nice 


MUX 


122 


MUX 


AS  Venison.  Xake  a  fat  loin  of  mutton, 
and  let  it  hang  for  several  days,  then  bone  it. 
Beat  it  well  witli  a  rolling  pin;  then  rub 
ten  pounds  of  meat  witli  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sugar,  and  pour  over  it  one  glass  of  Port, 
and  one  glass  of  vinegar.  Let  it  lie  for  five 
days  and  five  nights ;  after  which,  wash  and 
wipe  the  meat  veiy  dry,  and  season  it  highly 
with  Jamaica  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  salt. 
Lay  it  in  your  dish,  and  to  ten  pounds  put 
one  pound  of  butter,  spreading  it  over  the 
meat.  Put  a  crust  round  tlie  edge  of  the 
dish,  and  cover  with  a  thick  crust,  otherwise 
it  will  be  over-done  before  the  meat  is  soak- 
ed;  it  must  be  baked  in  a  slow  oven. 

Put  the  bones  in  a  pan  in  the  oven,  with 
just  sufficient  water  to  co\er  them,  and  one 
glass  of  Port,  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and 
salt ;  by  this  means  you  will  have  a  little  rich 
gravy  to  add  to  the  pasty  when  drawn. 

Sugar  gives  a  greater  shortness  to  meat, 
and  a  better  flavor  than  salt,  too  gi-eat  a 
quantity  of  which  hardens  the  meat.  Sugar 
is  quite  as  great  a  preseivative. 

MUTTON  POLPETTES.  Take  the 
lean  of  any  joint  of  cold  roasted  mutton,  pare 
off  the  skin,  and  mince  the  meat  with  a  little 
grated  bacon  and  calf's  udder ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  a  few  mushrooms  and 
parsley,  shred  small;  unite  them  together 
with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  make  twelve 
or  fifteen  Ijalls  of  it,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg, 
and  bread  them  twice.  Flatten  these  balls 
a  little,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter; 
when  done,  drain  and  place  them  on  the 
dish.      Serve  them  witli   tomato  sauce  or 


MUTTON,  ROLLED.  Bone  a  slioulder 
of  mutton  carefully,  so  as  not  to  injure  the 
skin,  cut  all  the  meat  from  the  skin,  mince 
it  small,  and  season  it  highly  vinth  pepper, 
nutmeg,  and  a  clove,  some  parsley,  lemon 
thyme,  sweet  marjoiam  chopped,  and  a 
pounded  onion,  all  well  mixed,  together  with 
a  well-beaten  yolk  of  an  egg ;  roll  it  up  vei"y 
tightly  in  the  skin,  tie  it  round,  and  bake  it 
in  an  oven  two  or  three  hours,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  mutton.  Make  a  gravy  of  the 
bones  and  parings,  season  with  an  onion, 
pepper  and  salt,  strain  and  thicken  it  with 
flour  and  butter;  add  vinegar,  mushroom 
ketchup,  soy,  and  lemon  pickle,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  each,  and  a  tea-cupfiil  of  Port 
wine;  garnish  with  forcemeat  balls,  made 
of  grai^  bread,  and  part  of  tlie  mince. 

MUTTON,  COLD  shoulder  broil- 
ed. A  cold  shoulder  of  roaist  mutton  ha v  i  ng 
only  a  little  meat  upon  the  blade  bone,  may 
be  scored,  sprinkled  with  pepper  and  salt, 
then  broiled  and  served  with  caper  sauce 


pom-ed  over  it,  or  melted  butter,  in  which 
should  be  mixed  of  mushroom  ketchup,  lemon 
pickle,  and  Harvey  sauce,  a  table-spoonful 
each. 

MUTTON    SHOULDER,    BAKED. 

Lard  a  shoulder  of  mutton  with  streaked 
bacon,  put  it  into  an  earthen  stewpan  pro- 
portioned to  the  size  of  the  joint  of  meat, 
with  two  or  diree  sliced  onions,  a  parsnip 
and  carrot  sliced,  one  clove  of  garlic,  two 
cloves,  half  a  bay-leaf  and  some  basil;  add 
about  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water  or  stock 
(stock  is  the  best),  some  salt  and  pepper; 
put  tlie  meat  into  tlie  sauce,  and  set  it  in  an 
oveu.  When  the  meat  is  done,  strain  the 
sauce  through  a  sieve,  and  skim  it,  squeezing 
the  vegetables  so  as  to  make  a  thickening  for 
your  sauce:  serve  tlie  sauce  with  the  meat. 

MUTTON  SHOULDER,  STEWED. 

(1)  Bone  a  shoulder  of  mutton  with  a 
sharp  knife,  and  fill  the  space  with  the  fol- 
lowing stuffing: — grated  bread,  minced  suet, 
parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  bind 
with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten. 
Sew  or  fasten  it  with  small  skewers;  brown 
it  in  a  frying-pan  with  a  bit  of  butter.  Break 
the  bone,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  some 
water,  an  onion,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  bunch 
of  parsley;  let  it  stew  till  the  strength  be 
extracted;  strain,  and  thicken  it  with  butter 
rolled  in  flour;  put  it,  with  the  mutton,  and 
a  glass  of  Port  wine,  into  the  saucepan ;  cover 
it  closely,  and  let  it  stew  gently  for  two 
hours.  Before  serving,  add  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  mushroom  ketchup.  Gai-nish  with 
pickles. 

MUTTON  SHOULDER,  STEW- 
ED. (2)  Bone  and  flatten  a  shoulder 
of  mutton,  sprinkle  over  it  pepper  and 
salt,  roll  it  up  tightly,  bind  it  with  tape,  and 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  that  will  just  hold  it, 
pour  over  it  a  well-seasoned  gravy  made  with 
the  bones,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and  let  it 
stew  till  tender;  before  serving,  take  off  tlie 
tape,  thicken  the  gravy,  and  garnish  with 
cut  pickles. 

MUTTON  STEAKS,  BROILED.  Cut 

some  mutton  steaks  from  the  loin,  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  take  off"  the  skin,  and  part 
of  the  fat.  As  soon  as  the  gridiron  is  hot, 
rub  it  with  a  little  suet,  lay  on  the  steaks 
(place  the  gridiron  over  the  fire  aslant),  turn 
the  steaks  frequently;  when  they  are  done, 
put  them  into  a  hot  dish,  rub  them  with 
a  little  butter;  slice  a  shallot  very  thin  into 
a  spoonful  of  water,  and  pour  it  on  them ; 
add  a  little  ketchup;  garnish  with  scraped 
hoise-radish,  and  pickles,  and  send  them  up 
hot  to  table. 


NOU 


OAT 


N. 


NAPLES  CURD.  Put  into  a  quart  of 
new  milk  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  boil  it  a  few 
minutes,  take  out  the  cinnamon,  and  stir  in 
eight  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  white  wine ;  when  it  boils  again,  strain 
it  through  a  sieve;  beat  tlie  curd  in  a  basin, 
togetlier  with  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water, 
and  pounded  sugar  sufficient  to  sweeten  it. 
Put  it  into  a  mould  for  two  hours  before  it 
is  sent  to  table.  White  wine,  sugar,  and 
cream,  may  be  mixed  together,  and  poured 
round  the  curd;  or  it  may  be  served  in  a 
sauce  tureen. 

NASTURTIUMS  PICKLED.  As  soon 
as  the  blossoms  are  off,  gatlier  the  little 
knobs;  put  them  into  cold  water  with  some 
salt;  shift  them  once  a  day  for  three  suc- 
cessive days;  make  a  cold  pickle  of  white 
wine  vinegar,  a  little  white  wine,  shallot, 
pepper,  cloves,  mace,  nutmeg,  cut  in  quar- 
ters, and  horse-radish ;  and  put  your  nastur- 
tium buds  into  this  pickle. 

NEAT'S  TONGUE  Fresh,  in  a 
Plain  Way.  Lard  a  tongue  with  tolera- 
ble-sized lardons,  and  boil  it  in  broth,  or  in 
water,  with  a  few  onions  and  roots ;  when 
it  is  done,  peel  it,  and  serve  it  with  broth, 
sprinkling  it  over  witli  a  little  pepper  and 
salt;  it  is  also  used  without  larding,  and 
being  boiled  fresh  in  tliis  manner,  is  consid- 
ered very  good  for  mince-pie  meat. 

NEAT'S  TONGUE,  Roasted,  a  la 
Francaise.  Boil  a  neat's  tongue,  and 
blanch  it;  set  it  by  till  it  is  cold,  then  cut  a 
hole  in  the  under  part,  and  take  out  the 
meat,  mince  it  with  two  or  three  hard  eggs, 
an  apple,  beef-suet,  and  bacon ;  season  with 
salt,  beaten  ginger,  and  sweet  herbs,  shred 
vei-y  fine;  stuff  the  tongue  with  this  force- 
meat ;  then  cover  tlie  end  with  a  veal  caul, 
lard  it  with  bacon,  and  roast  it;  serve  with 
a  sauce  made  of  gravy,  butter,  and  the  juice 
of  oranges,  garnish  tlie  dish  vvitli  sliced  lem- 
on-peel and  barberries. 

NOUGAT.  Blanch  and  wash  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  and  having  drained  tliem 
well,  cut  each  into  five  slips,  which  place  in 
a  gentle  oven  to  dry ;  let  tliem  be  all  equally 
colored  of  a  clear  yellow ;  in  the  meantime, 
put  thi'ee-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar 
into  a  preserving  pan,  set  it  on  a  stove,  stir- 
ring with  a  wooden  spoon  until  completely 
dissolved ;  then  take  the  almonds  out  of  the 
oven,  and  whilst  hot  throw  them  into  the  li- 
quid sugar;  mix  them  togedier  well.  Have 
ready  a  mould  well  oiled,  of  any  shape  you 


think  proper,  in  the  interior  of  which  place 
tlie  slips  of  almonds,  by  means  of  lemon-juice, 
when  tlie  whole  is  covered,  remove  the  mould 
carefully,  and  serve  the  Nougat. 

NOYAU.  (1)  Peaches  and  nectarines, 
in  equal  quantities,  are  to  be  bruised,  the 
stones  broken,  and  the  kernels  blanched  and 
bi-uised ;  they  are  then  to  be  put  into  a  jar 
in  layers,  one  of  fruit,  one  of  kernels,  and 
one  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  so  on  until 
the  jar  is  full;  as  much  white  brandy  is 
tlien  to  be  added  as  the  jar  will  hold ;  and 
when  it  has  stood  for  five  or  six  months,  it 
is  to  be  filtered  and  bottled  for  use. 

NOYAU.  (2)  One  pound  of  bitter  al- 
monds, blanched,  is  to  be  steeped  three 
montlis  in  four  quarts  of  large-still  proof 
whisky,  or  pale  brandy,  fom-  pounds  of^  loaf 
sugar  are  then  to  be  clarified  and  added  to 
the  strained  or  filtered  spirits,  together  witli 
half  a  pint  of  pure  honey.  It  is  sometimes 
colored  with  a  little  cochineal;  and  may 
also  be  made,  allowing  three  parts  of  sweet, 
and  one  of  bitter  almonds. 

NOYAU.  (3)  The  rinds  of  three  large 
lemons,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounded,  ai-e  to  be  mixed  into  a  quart  of  the 
'best  Hollands  gin,  tliree  table-spoonfuls  of 
boiling  milk  being  added.  It  is  to  l)e  put 
into  a  bottle  or  jar,  and  shaken  eveiy  day 
for  three  weeks,  and  then  filtered  through 
chamois  leather  or  blotting  paper,  when  it 
will  be  fit  for  use. 


O. 


OAT  CAKES-^— are  made  in  the  same 
manner  as  muffins,  using  gifted  oatmeal  in- 
stead of  flour,  and  three  gallons  of  water  in- 
stead of  two:  pull  the  dough  into  pieces, 
roll  and  finish  tlie  cakes  as  directed  for  muf- 
fins. When  wanted,  pull  tlie  edges  apait, 
toast  them  nicely  on  bolli  sides,  and  tlien 
open  them  completely;  lay  in  small  pieces 
of  butter,  until  you  have  as  much  as  you  may 
want;  close  them  again,  set  them  before 
the  fire,  and  cut  each  in  halves  or  quarters. 

OATMEAL  PORRIDGE.  Boil  some 
water  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt,  and 
stir  oatmeal  into  it  with  a  thevil ;  when  of 
a  proper  thickness,  let  it  boil  for  four  or 
five  minutes,  stirring  it  all  the  time ;  then 
pour  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve  with  it  cream 
or  milk.  It  is  sometimes  eaten  with  porter 
and  sugar,  or  ale  and  sugar.  If  made  witli 
milk  instead  of  water,  less  meal  is  requisite, 
and  it  is  then  eaten  with  cold  milk. 


OME 


124 


OME 


OLIVE  ROYALS.  Boil  one  pound  of 
potatoes,  and  when  nearly  cold  rub  them 
perfectly  smootli  with  four  ounces  of  flour 
and  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  knead  it  to- 
gether till  it  become  a  paste;  roll  it  out 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into 
rounds,  and  lay  upon  one  side  any  sort  of 
cold  roasted  meat  cut  into  thin  small  bits, 
and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ;  put  a 
very  small  bit  of  butter  over  it,  wet  the 
edges,  and  close  the  paste  in  the  form  of  a 
half  cii'cle.  Fry  them  in  boiling  fresh  drip- 
ping of  a  light  brown  color ;  lay  them  be- 
fore tlie  fire,  on  the  back  of  a  sieve,  to  drain. 
Serve  them  with  or  widiout  gravy  in  tlie 
dish.  For  a  change,  mince  the  meat,  and 
season  it  as  before  directed.  The  potatoes 
should  be  very  mealy. 

OLIVES.  There  are  three  sorts,  the 
Italian,  Spanish,  and  French;  they  may 
be  had  of  various  sizes  and  flavors,  some 
prefer  one  sort,  and  some  another. 

The  fine  salad  oil  is  made  from  this  fruit, 
for  which  purpose  they  ai*e  gathered  ripe; 
for  pickling  they  are  gathered  when  only 
half  ripe,  at  the  latter  end  of  June ;  they  are 
put  into  fresh  water  to  soak  for  a  couple  of 
days ;  after  this  they  are  thrown  into  lime- 
water,  in  which  some  pearl-ashes  have  been 
dissolved;  in  this  liquor  they  lie  for  six  and 
thirty  hours ;  they  are  then  put  into  water 
which  has  had  bay-salt  dissolved  in  it;  this 
is  the  last  preparation,  and  they  are  sent 
over  to  us  in  this  liquor ;  they  are  naturally, 
as  they  grow  on  tlie  tree,  extremely  bitter, 
and  therefore  all  these  preparations  are  nec- 
essary to  bring  them  to  their  fine  flavor.  To 
some  olives  tliey  add  a  small  quantity  of  es- 
sence of  spices,  which  is  an  oil  drawn  fi-om 
cloves,  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  coriander,  and 
sweet  fennel-seed  disrtilled  together  for  that 
purpose ;  twelve  drops  are  sufficient  for  a 
bushel  of  olives ;  some  prefer  tliem  flavored 
with  tliis 


OMELETS       AND      VARIOUS       WAYS 

OF  DRESSING  Eggq.  There  is  no  dish 
which  may  be  considered  as  coming  under 
tlie  denomination  of  a  made  dish  of  tlie  sec- 
ond order,  which  is  so  genei-ally  eaten,  if 
good,  as  an  omelet ;  and  no  one  is  so  often 
badly  dressed :  it  is  a  very  faithfi^il  assistant 
in  the  construction  of  a  dinner. 

When  you  are  taken  by  surprise,  and  wish 
to  make  an  appearance  beyond  what  is  pro- 
vided for  the  every-day  dinner,  a  little  port- 
able soup  melted  down,  and  some  zest  and  a 
few  vegetables,  will  make  a  good  broth ;  a 
pot  of  stewed  veal  warmed  up ;  an  omelet ; 
and  some  apple  or  lemon  fritters,  can  all  Vje 
got  ready  at  ten  minutes  notice,  and  with 
tlie  original  foundation  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  or 
a  piece  of  beef,  will  make  up  a  very  good 


dinner  when  company  unexpectedly  arrives, 
in  the  countiy. 

The  great  merit  of  an  omelet  is,  that  it 
should  not  be  greasy,  burnt,  nor  too  much 
done :  if  too  much  of  the  white  of  the  eggs  is 
left  in,  no  art  can  prevent  its  being  hard,  if 
it  is  done:  to  dress  the  omelet,  the  fire 
should  not  be  too  hot,  as  it  is  an  object  to 
have  the  whole  substance  heated,  witliout 
much  browning  die  outside. 

One  of  the  great  errors  in  cooking  an  om- 
elet is,  tiiat  it  is  too  thin ;  consequently,  in- 
stead of  feeling  full  and  moist  in  tlie  mouth, 
the  substance  presented  is  little  better  than 
a  piece  of  fried  leather:  to  get  the  omelet 
thick  is  one  of  the  great  objects.  With  re- 
spect to  the  flavors  to  be  inti-oduced,  these 
are  infinite;  that  which  is  most  common, 
however,  is  the  best,  viz.  finely  chopped 
parsley,  and  chives  or  onions,  or  eschalots: 
however,  one  made  of  a  mixture  of  tarragon, 
cher\'il,  and  parsley,  is  a  veiy  delicate  va- 
riety, omitting  or  adding  the  onion  or  chives. 
Of  the  meat  flavors,  the  veal  kidney  is  the 
most  delicate,  and  is  die  most  admired  by 
the'French:  this  should  be  cut  in  dice,  and 
should  be  dressed  (boiled)  before  it  is  added; 
in  the  same  manner,  ham  and  anchovies, 
shred  small,  or  tongue,  will  make  a  very 
delicately  flavored  dish. 

The  olyection  to  an  omelet  is,  tliat  it  is 
too  rich,  which  makes  it  advisable  to  eat 
but  a  small  quantity.  An  addition  of  some 
finely  mashed  potatoes,  about  two  table- 
spoonfuls,  to  an  omelet  of  six  eggs,  will 
much  lighten  it. 

Omelets  are  often  served  witli  rich  gra- 
vy ;  but,  as  a  general  principle,  no  substance 
which  has  been  fried  should  be  served  in  gra- 
vy, but  accompanied  by  it,  or  Avliat  ought  to 
eat  diy  and  crisp,  becomes  soddened  and 
flat. 

In  the  compounding  the  gravy,  great  care 
should  be  taken  that  the  flavor  does  not  over- 
come that  of  the  omelet,  a  thing  too  little 
attended  to:  a  fine  gravy,  with  a  flavoring 
of  sweet  herbs  and  onions,  we  think  the  test ; 
some  add  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar ; 
but  this  is  to  be  done  only  with  great  care : 
gravies  to  omelets  are  in  general  thicken- 
ed: til  is  should  never  be  done  with  flour; 
potato  starch,  or  arrow-root,  is  the  best. 

Omelets  should  be  filed  in  a  small  fry- 
ing-pan made  for  that  purpose,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  butter.  The  omelet's  great 
merit  is  to  be  thick,  so  as  not  to  taste  of  the 
outside ;  therefore  use  only  half  die  number 
of  whites  that  you  do  yolks  of  eggs:  eveiy 
care  must  be  taken  in  fiying,  even  at  the 
risk  of  not  having  it  quite  set  in  the  middle: 
an  omelet,  which  has  so  much  vogue 
abroad,  is  here,  in  general,  a  thin  doubled- 
up  piece  of  leadier,  and  harder  Uian  soft 
leather  sometimes.   The  fact  is,  diat  as  nptucli 


OME 


125 


ONI 


dfipfe  must  be  bestowed  on  tlie  frying,  as 
should  be  taken  in  poaching  an  egg.  A 
salamander  is  necessary  to  those  who  will 
have  the  top  brown ;  but  the  kitchen  shovel 
may  be  substituted  for  it. 

The  following  receipt  is  the  basis  of  all 
omelets,  of  which  you  may  make  an  end- 
less variety,  by  taking,  instead  of  the  pars- 
ley and  eschalot,  a  portion  of  sweet  herbs, 
or  any  of  the  articles  used  for  making  force- 
meats, or  any  of  the  forcemeats. 

Omelets  are  called  by  the  name  of  what 
is  added  to  flavor  them:  a  ham  or  tongue 
omelet;  an  anchovy,  or  veal  kidney  ome- 
let, &c. :  these  are  prepared  exactly  in  the 
same  way  as  in  the  first  receipt,  leaving  out 
tlie  parsley  and  eschalot,  and  mincing  the 
ham  or  kidney  very  fine,  &c.,  and  adding 
that  in  the  place  of  them,  and  then  pour  over 
them  all  sorts  of  thickened  gravies,  sauces, 
&c. 

OMELET.  (1)  Five  or  six  eggs  will 
make  a  good-sized  omelet;  break  them 
into  a  basin,  and  beat  them  well  with  a  fork ; 
and  add  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt ;  have  ready 
chopped  two  drachms  of  onion,  or  three 
drachms  of  parsley,  a  good  clove  of  eschalot 
minced  very  fine;  beat  it  well  up  with  the 
eggs ;  then  take  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
and  break  half  of  it  into  large  bits,  and  put 
it  into  the  omelet,  and  the  odier  half  into 
a  very  clean  frying-pan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
pour  in  the  omelet,  and  stir  it  with  a  spoon 
till  it  begins  to  set,  then  turn  it  up  all  round 
the  edges,  and  when  it  is  of  a  nice  brown  it 
is  done:  the  safest  way  to  take  it  out  is  to 
put  a  plate  on  the  omelet,  and  turn  the  pan 
upside-down:  serve  it  on  a  hot  dish;  it 
should  never  be  done  till  just  wanted.  If 
maigre,  grated  cheese,  shrimjjs,  or  oysters. 
If  oysters,  boil  them  four  minutes,  and  take 
away  the  beard  and  gristly  part;  they  may 
eitlier  be  put  in  whole,  or  cut  in  bits. 

OMELET.  (2)  Beard  and  parboil  twelve 
or  sixteen  oysters,  seasoning  them  with  a  few 
peppercorns,  strain  and*  chop  them ;  beat 
well  six  eggs;  parboil  and  mince  a  little 
parsley ;  mix  all  together,  and  season  with  a 
little  nutmeg,  salt,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  ketchup;  fry  it  lightly  in  three 
ounces  of  butter,  and  hold  it  for  a  minute  or 
two  before  die  fire. 

OMELET.  (3)  Beat  well  and  sti-ain  six 
eggs;  add  them  to  three  ounces  of  butter 
made  hot  ;  mix  in  some  grated  ham,  pepper, 
salt,  and  nutmeg,  some  chopped  chives  and 
parsley.     Fry  it  of  a  light  brown  color. 

OMELET.     (4)  Take  as  many  eggs  as 
you  Uiink  proper  (according  to  the  size  of 
your  omelet)  break  them  into  a  basin  with 
11* 


some  salt  and  chopped  parsley;  then  beat 
them  well,  and  season  diem  according  to 
taste,  then  have  ready  some  onion  chopped 
small ;  put  some  butter  into  a  frj'ing-pan,  and 
when  it  is  hot  (but  not  to  burn)  put  in  your 
chopped  onion,  giving  them  two  or  three 
turns ;  then  add  your  eggs  to  it,  and  fry  the 
whole  of  a  nice  brown,  you  must  only  fry 
one  side.  When  done,  turn  it  into  a  dish, 
the  fried  side  uppermost,  and  serve. 

OMELET  FRITTERS.  Make  two  or 
three  thin  omelets,  adding  a  little  sweet  ba- 
sil to  the  usual  ingredients;  cut  them  into 
small  pieces  and  roll  them  into  the  form  of 
olives;  when  cold,  dip  them  into  batter,  or 
enclose  them  in  puff  paste ;  fi-y,  and  serve 
them  with  fried  parsley. 

omi;let    with    kidney    of 

VEAL.  To  eight  well-beaten  eggs,  add  a 
little  salt,  and  part  of  a  cold  roasted  kidney 
of  veal,  finely  minced;  season  with  pepper, 
and  a  little  more  salt  ;  melt  in  a  frying-pan 
one  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter,  and  pour  in 
the  omelet ;  fry  it  gently,  and  keep  the  mid- 
dle part  moist ;  when  done,  roll  it  equally 
upon  a  knife,  and  serve  it  very  hot. 

OMELET  AU  NATUREL.  Break 
eight  or  ten  eggs  into  a  pan,  add  fXipper, 
salt,  and  a  spoonful  of  cold  water,  beat  them 
up  with  a  whisk;  in  the  meantime  put  some 
fresh  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  when  it  is  quite 
melted  and  nearly  boiling,  put  in  the  eggs, 
&c.  with  a  skimmer;  as  it  is  frying,  take 
up  the  edges,  that  they  may  be  properly 
done;  when  cooked,  double  it;  serve  very 
hot. 

ONIONS .  The  small  round  silver  buttoh 
onions,  about  as  big  as  a  nutmeg,  make  a 
very  nice  pickle.  Take  off  their  top  coats, 
have  ready  a  stewpan,  three  parts  filled  with 
boiling  water,  into  which  put  as  many  on- 
ions as  will  cover  the  top:  as  soon  as  they 
look  clear,  immediately  take  them  up  with 
a  spoon  full  of  holes,  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth 
three  times  folded,  and  cover  them  with 
another  till  you  have  ready  as  many  as  you 
wish:  when  they  are  quite  dry,  put  them  into 
jars,  and  cover  them  with  hot  pickle,  made 
by  infusing  an  ounce  of  horseradish,  same  of 
allspice,  and  same  of  black  pepper,  and  same 
of  salt,  in  a  quart  of  best  white-wine  vinegar, 
in  a  stone  jar,  on  a  trivet  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  three  days,  keeping  it  well  closed ; 
when  cold,  bung  them  down  tight,  and  cover 
them  with  bladder  wetted  with  the  pickle 
and  leather. 

ONIONS  STEWED.  The  large  For- 
tugal  onions  are  the  best:  take  off  the  top- 
coats of  half  a  dozen  of  these  (taking  care 


ONI 


126 


OR  A 


not  to  cut  off  the  tops  or  tails  too  near,  or 
the  onions  will  go  to  pieces),  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  broad  enough  to  hold  them 
witliout  laying  tliem  atop  of  one  anotlier, 
and  just  cover  them  widi  good  bi'oth.  Put 
them  over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  diem  simmer 
about  two  hours ;  when  you  dish  tliem,  tui'n 
them  upside  down,  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

OPIIONS  TO  PICKLE.  Peel  tlie  onions 
till  they  look  white;  boil  some  strong  salt 
and  water,  and  pour  it  over  tliem ;  let  them 
stand  in  this  twenty-four  hours,  keep  tlie 
vessel  closely  covered  to  retain  the  steam: 
after  that  time  wipe  the  onions  quite  dry, 
and  when  they  are  cold,  pour  boiling  vinegar, 
with  ginger  and  white  pepper  over  them. 
Take  care  the  vinegar  always  covers  the 
onions. 

ONION  SAUCE,  YOUNG.  Peel  a 
pint  of  button  onions,  and  put  them  in  water 
till  you  want  to  put  them  on  to  boil;  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  widi  a  quart  of  cold 
water;  let  them  boil  till  tender;  they  will 
take  (according  to  their  size  and  age)  fi'om 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour. 

ONION  SAUCE.  Those  who  like  the 
full  flavor  of  onions  only  cut  off  the  strings 
and  tops  (without  peeling  off  any  of  die 
skins),  put  them  into  salt  and  water,  and  let 
them  lie  an  hour ;  then  wash  them,  put  them 
into  a  kettle  with  plenty  of  water,  and  boil 
them  till  they  are  tender:  now  skin  them, 
pass  them  through  a  colander,  and  mix  a 
little  melted  butter  with  them.  N.  B.  Some 
mix  the  pulp  of  apples,  or  turnips,  with  the 
onions,  others  add  mustard  to  them. 

ONIONS,  TO  PREPARE  FOR  SEA- 
SONING. Peel  and  mince  three  or  four 
onions,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  lit- 
tle cold  water.  Let  them  boil  till  quite 
tender,  and  dien  pulp  them  with  the  liquor 
through  a  hair  sieve,  when  it  may  be  mixed 
with  any  made  dishes  or  sauces. 

ONIONS    YOUNG,    TO    PICKLE. 

Choose  some  of  the  small  silver  onions,  put 
them  on  in  cold  water,  and  when  it  is  scald- 
ing hot,  take  them  out  with  an  egg  slice; 
peel  off  the  skins  till  they  look  white  and 
clear ;  Liy  them  into  the  folds  of  a  clodi. 
Boil,  in  a  quart  of  vinegar,  half  an  ounce  of 
pepper,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  allspice,  the 
same  of  garlic,  and  one  sliced  nutmeg ;  put 
tlie  onions  into  a  jar,  and  pour  over  them 
tlie  boiling  vinegar  and  spices.  When  cold, 
tie  leather  over  the  jar. 

ONIONS,  PLAIN  BOILED.  Peel 
them,  and  let  them  lie  an  hour  in  cold  water, 
put  them   on   in  boiling  milk  and  water; 


boil  diem  till  tender,  and  sei-ve  them  with 
melted  butter  poured  over  them. 

ONIONS,  ROAST.  Roast  them  with 
the  skins  on  in  a  Dutch  oven,  that  Uiey  may 
brown  equally.  They  are  eaten  with  cold 
fresh  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 

ONIONS  STEWED.  (1)  Take  a  dozen 
of  good-sized  onions,  jjeel  and  put  them  on 
in  the  following  sauce: — A  pint  of  veal  stock, 
a  bit  of  butter  roiled  in  flour,  a  little  pepper, 
and  salt.  Stew  them  gently  for  an  hour, 
and,  just  before  serving,  mix  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream.  To  stew  them  in  a 
brown  sauce,  take  the  same  quantity  of  good 
gravy.  In  a  stewpan  brown,  of  a  light  co- 
lor, a  little  butter  and  flour,  add  die  gravy 
and  onions,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and 
stew  them  gently  one  hour. 

ONIONS  STEWED.  (2)  Peel  five  or 
six  large  onions,  put  them  into  a  Dutch  oven 
or  cheese-toaster  to  roast,  turn  tiiem  frequent- 
ly, and  when  they  are  well  browned,  put 
tliem  into  a  saucepan,  widi  a  bone  of  dressed 
or  undressed  meat,  a  slice  of  bacon,  a  little 
water,  and  some  pepper.  Cover  tlie  pan 
closely,  and  stew  them  till  tender.  Take 
out  the  bone  and '  die  bacon ;  thicken  the 
sauce  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

ORANGE  BISCUITS.  Take  the  grat- 
ed rind  of  an  orange,  six  fresh  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  and  diree-tiuar- 
ters  of  a  pound  of  powder  sugar ;  put  these 
into  a  mortar,  beat  them  to  a  paste,  which 
put  into  cases,  and  bake  like  other  bis- 
cuits. 

ORANGE  CHEESECAKES.    To  be 

made   in  the  same  way,   as  lemon  cheese- 
cakes. 

ORANGE  CREAM,  frothed.  Make 
a  pint  of  cream  very  sweet,  ]iut  it  over  tlie 
fire,  let  it  just  boil,  put  the  juice  of  a  large 
orange  into  a  small  deep  glass,  having  pre- 
viously steeped  a  bit  of  orange-peel  for  a 
short  time  in  the  juice,  when  the  cream  is 
almost  cold,  pour  it  out  of  a  tea-pot  upon 
the  juice,  holding  it  as  high  as  possible. 

ORANGE  CUSTARD.  Having  boiled 
the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange  very  tender,  beat 
it  in  a  mortar  to  a  fine  paste ;  put  to  it  the 
juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  a  spoonful  of  the 
best  brandy,  four  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  and 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs ;  beat  them  all  well 
together  ten  minutes,  then  pour  in  by  degrees 
a  pint  of  boiling  cream;  keep  beating  it  till 
cold ;  put  it  into  custard  glasses.  Set  them 
in  an  etuthen  dish  of  hot  water;  let  tliem 
stand  till  they  are  set,  dien  stick  presened 


ORA 


127 


OVE 


orange,  or  orange  chips,  on  the  top.     It  may 
be  sei'ved  hot  or  cold. 

ORANGE  FOOL.  Take  the  juice  of 
six  oranges,  six  eggs  well  beaten,  a  pint  of 
Cieam,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  little 
cinnamon  and  nutmeg.  Mix  all  well  togeth- 
61- ;  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  till  thick,  then  put 
in  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  keep  stirring 
it  till  cold. 

ORANGE  GINGERBREAD.  Sift  two 
pounds  and  a  quarter  of  fine  flour,  and  add 
to  it  a  pound  and  three-quarters  of  treacle, 
six  ounces  of  candied  orange-peel  cut  small, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  moist  sugar,  one 
ounce  of  ground  ginger,  and  one  ounce  of 
allspice:  melt  to  an  oil  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  butter ;  mix  the  whole  well  togeth- 
er, and  lay  it  by  for  twelve  horn's ;  roll  it 
out  witli  as  little  flour  as  possible,  about 
half  an  inch  thick ;  cut  it  into  pieces  three 
inches  long  and  two  wide ;  mark  them  in 
the  form  of  checkers  with  the  back  of  a 
knife ;  put  tliem  on  a  baking-plate  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  apart ;  iiib  them  over  with 
a  brush  dipped  in  tlie  yolk  of  an  egg  beat  up 
with  a  tea-cupful  of  milk ;  bake  it  in  a  cool 
oven  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour :  when  done, 
wash  them  slightly  over  again,  divide  the 
pieces  with  a  knife  (as  in  baking  they  will 
run  together). 

ORANGE  LIQUOR.  To  each  orange, 
one  quart  of  strong  spirits,  and  one  pound 
and  a  quarter  of  loaf  sugar  are  allowed;  six 
or  eight  cloves  are  to  be  stuck  into  each  or- 
ange, whicii,  with  the  spirits  and  sugar,  is 
to  be  put  into  a  jar.  It  must  be  closely  cov- 
ered, and  stirred  occasionally  in  the  course 
of  two  months ;  it  is  then  to  be  filtered  through 
blotting  paper,  and  bottled  for  use. 

Lemon  liquor  is  made  in  the  same  way, 
substituting  lemons  for  oranges.  Instead  of 
mixing  the  sugar  with  the  other  materials  in 
tlie  jar,  it  may  be  made  into  a  sirup,  and 
added  to  the  strained  or  filtered  spirits. 
This,  though  more  ti'oublesome,  will  be  found 
a  better  method. 

ORANGE    OR  LEMON-PEEL,  TO 

MIX  WITH  STUFFING.  Peel  a  Seville  or- 
ange, or  lemon,  veiy  thin,  taking  off"  only  the 
fine  yellow  rind  (witliout  any  of  the  white); 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  bit  of  lump  su- 
gar; rub  it  well  with  the  peel;  by  degrees 
add  a  little  of  the  forcemeat  it  is  to  be  mixed 
with:  when  it  is  well  ground  and  blended 
with  this,  mix  it  with  the  whole:  there  is 
no  other  way  of  incorporating  it  so  well. 
Forcemeats,  &c.  are  frequently  spoiled  by 
the  insufficient  mixing  of  the  ingredients. 

ORANGE  SIRUP,  for  Punch  or 
Pudding.     See  Justice. 


ORANGEADE.  (1)  Squeeze  the  juice; 
pour  some,  boiling  water  on  the  peel,  aad 
cover  it  closely ;  boil  water  and  sugar  to  a 
thin  sirup,  and  skim  it;  when  all  are  cold, 
mix  the  juice,  the  infusion,  and  the  sirup, 
with  as  much  water  as  will  make  a  rich 
sherbet ;  sti*ain  it  tlirough  a  jelly-bag. 

ORANGEADE.  (2)  This  refreshing 
beverage  is  made  precisely  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  lemonade,  only  substituting  oranges 
for  lemons. 

ORANGE   PEEL   RATAFIA.     Put 

the  peels  of  a  dozen  thick-skinned  oranges 
into  a  gallon  of  brandy ;  dissolve  two  pounds 
of  sugar  in  the  juice  of  the  oranges,  add  to  it 
the  brandy,  and  having  stirred  them  togeth- 
er well,  close  the  vessel  tightly,  and  leave  it 
for  a  month ;  then  strain  it  off,  and  bottle  it. 

ORGEAT.  (1)  Pound  very  fine  one 
pound  of  Jordan,  and  one  ounce' of  bitter, 
almonds,  in  a  marble  mortar,  witli  half  a  gill 
of  orange-flower  water  to  keep  tliem  from 
oiling;  then  mix  with  them  one  pint  of 
rose  and  one  pint  of  spring-water ;  rub  it 
through  a  tamis  cloth  or  lawn  sieve,  till  the 
almonds  are  quite  dry,  which  will  reduce  the 
quantity  to  about  a  quart :  have  ready  three 
pints  of  clarified  sugar  or  water,  and  boil  it 
to  a  crack  (which  may  be  known  by  dipping 
your  fingers  into  the  sugar,  and  then  into 
cold  water ;  and  if  you  find  the  sugar  to  crack 
in  moving  your  finger,  it  has  boiled  enough) ; 
put  in  the  almonds ;  boil  it  one  minute,  and 
when  cold  put  it  into  small  bottles  close 
corked;  a  table-spoonful  of  which  will  be 
sufficient  for  a  tumbler  of  water:  shake  the 
bottle  before  using.  If  the  orgeat  is  for 
present  use,  the  almonds  may  be  pounded  as 
above,  and  mixed  with  one  quart  of  water, 
one  quart  of  milk,  a  pint  of  capillaire  or 
clarified  sugar,  rubbed  through  a  tamis  or 
fine  sieve,  and  put  into  decantere  for  use. 

ORGEAT.  (2)  A  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sweet,  and  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  bitter 
almonds,  are  to  be  blanched,  and  thrown  into 
cold  water,  then  Ixjaten  in  a  marble  mortar, 
and  moistened  occasionally  with  a  spoonful 
of  milk,  to  prevent  their  oiling ;  three  pints 
of  milk  are  then  to  be  mixed  gradually  with 
them,  and  after  being  sweetened,  boiled, 
stirred  till  cold,  and  strained,  a  glass  of  wine 
or  brandy  is  to  be  added. 

OVEN,    DIRECTIONS   FOR    THE. 

Be  very  careful  to  keep  your  oven  clean,  and 
that  there  are  no  remains  of  sugar  or  fat  tliat 
may  have  run  over  from  any  thing  that  has 
been  baking.  Puff-pastes  recjuire  a  mode- 
rately hot  oven,  but  not  too  hot,  or  it  will 
spoil  tlie  shape  and  turn  it  over ;  tart-paste, 


oxc 


1^8 


OYS 


©r  short  crust,  requires  a  slower  oven ;  pe- 
tits-bhoux,  one  still  slower;  but  for  raised 
pies,  let  it  be  as  hot  as  for  puff-paste  at  first, 
and  well  closed,  so  that  the  pies  may  not  fall. 
Therefore,  when  you  give  a  dinner  where 
paste  is  necessary,  endeavor  to  make  it  in 
the  morning;  heat  your  oven  first  for  the 
puff-paste,  which  must  be  baked  the  fii-st; 
tlien  let  the  oven  go  gradually  down,  and 
bake  your  pastes  in  rotation,  as  the  heat 
fells.  Savoy  biscuits  require  a  cool  oven, 
and,  by  degrees,  raise  the  heat  as  tlie  biscuits 
are  baking.  For  souffles  or  light  puddings, 
have  a  gentle  oven,  and  contrive  so  as  to  have 
them  ready  by  the  time  they  are  wanted,  or 
they  will  fall.  The  greatest  attention  should 
also  be  paid  in  heating  the  oven  for  baking 
cakes,  particularly  for  those  that  are  large. 
If  not  pretty  quick,  the  batter  will  not  rise. 
Should  you  fear  its  catching  by  being  too 
quick,  put  paper  over  the  cake  to  prevent  its 
being  burnt.  If  not  long  enough  lighted  to 
have  a  body  of  heat,  or  if  it  has  become 
slack,  tlie  cake  will  be  heavy.  To  know 
when  it  is  soaked,  take  a  broad  bladed 
knife  that  is  very  bright,  and  plimge  it  into 
tlie  centre ;  draw  it  instantly  out,  and  if  the 
least  stickiness  adheres,  put  the  cake  imme- 
diately in,  and  shut  up  the  oven.  If  the  heat 
was  sufficient  to  raise,  but  not  to  soak,  fresh 
fuel  must  be  quickly  put  in,  and  the  cakes 
kept  hot  until  the  oven  is  fit  to  finish  the 
soaking,  but  this  must  only  be  done  in  a  case 
of  great  emergency;- for  those  who  are  em- 
ployed ought  to  be  particularly  careful  that 
no  mistake  occur  from  negligence. 

OX-CHEEK  STEWED.  Prepare  this 
the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten ;  clean  it,  and 
put  it  into  soft  water  just  warm ;  let  it  lie 
tliree  or  four  hours,  then  put  it  into  cold  wa- 
ter, and  let  it  soak  all  night;  next  day  wipe 
it  clean,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 
it  with  water ;  skim  it  well  when  it  is  com- 
ing to  a  boil,  then  put  two  whole  onions, 
stick  two  or  three  cloves  into  each,  three 
turnips  quartered,  a  couple  of  carrots  sliced, 
two  bay -leaves,  and  twenty-four  corns  of  all- 
spice, a  head  of  celery,  and  a  bundle  of 
sweet-herbs,  j^epper,  and  salt;  to  these, 
those  who  are  for  a  "  haut  gout  "  may  add 
cayenne  and  garlic,  in  such  proportions  as 
the  palate  that  requires  them  may  desire. 
Let  it  stew  gently  till  perfectly  tender,  i.  e. 
about  du-ee  hours;  then  take  out  the  cheek, 
divide  it  into  handsome  pieces,  fit  to  help  at 
table ;  skim,  and  strain  die  gravy ;  melt  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  in  a  stewpan ;  stir 
into  it  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take  up ;  mix 
with  it  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the 
gravy;  add  to  it  a  table-s}K)onful  of  basil, 
tarragon,  or  elder  vinegar,  or  the  like  quan- 
tity of  mushroom  or  walnut  ketchup,  or  cav- 
ice,  or  Port  wine,  and  give  it  a  boil. 


OX  CHEEK,  TO  BOIL.  Wash  very 
clean,  half  a  head ;  let  it  lie  in  cold  water 
all  night;  break  the  l)one  in  two,  taking  care 
not  to  break  the  flesh.  Put  it  on  in  a  pot 
of  boiling  water,  and  let  it  boil  from  two  to 
three  hours;  take  out  the  lx)ne.  Serve  it 
with  boiled  cairots  and  tuniips,  or  savoys. 
The  liquor  the  head  has  been  boiled  in  may 
be  strained  and  made  into  Scots  barley  broth, 
or  Scots  kale. 

OX  FEET  JELLY.  Put  a  little  hot 
water  over  die  top  of  the  stock,  pour  it  off, 
and  wipe  it  dry  with  a  clean  cloth;  put  a 
quart  of  it  into  a  saucepjin  with  the  beaten 
whites  of  five  or  six  eggs,  the  juice  of  five 
lemons  made  very  sweet  with  good  brown 
sugar,  a  clove  or  two,  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon pounded;  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  it  all  the  time ;  take  it  off  the  fire, 
and  add  a  pint,  or  half  a  pint  of  white 
wine,  and  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag  till 
clear. 

OX-TAILS  STEWED.  Divide  them 
into  joints;  wash  them;  parboil  them;  set 
them  on  to  stew  in  just  water  enough  to 
cover  thorn, — and  dress  them  in  the  same 
manner  as  we  have  directed  in  Stewed  Gib- 
lets, for  which  they  are  an  excellent  substi- 
tute. 

OYSTERS.  Some  piscivorous  gour- 
mands think  that  oysters  are  not  best  when 
quite  fresh  from  their  beds,  and  that  their 
flavor  is  too  brackish  and  harsh,  and  is  much 
ameliorated  by  giving  them  a  feed. 

To  FEED  oysters. — Cover  them  with 
clean  water,  with  a  pint  of  salt  to  alx)Ut  two 
gallons  (nothing  else,  no  oatmeal,  flour,  nor 
any  other  tnuupery) ;  this  will  cleanse  them 
from  die  mud  and  sand,  &c.  of  the  bed ;  af- 
ter they  have  lain  in  it  twelve  hours,  change 
it  for  fresh  salt  and  water,  and  in  twelve 
hours  more  they  will  lie  in  prime  order  for 
the  mouth,  and  remain  so  two  or  diree  days: 
at  the  lime  of  high  water  you  may  see  them 
open  their  shells,  in  expectation  of  receiving 
their  usual  food.  This  process  of  feeding 
oysters  is  only  employed  when  a  great  many 
come  up  together. 

Common  people  are  indifferent  about  the 
manner  of  opening  oysteis,  and  the  time  of 
eating  them  after  they  are  opened ;  nodiing, 
however,  is  more  imjwrtant  in  the  enlight- 
ened eyes  of  the  exjierienced  oyster-eater. 

Those  who  wish  to  enjoy  this  delicious 
restorative  in  its  utmost  perfection,  must 
eat  it  the  moment  it  is  opened,  with  its  own 
gravy  in  the  under  shell ;  if  not  eaten  while 
absf>lutelv  alive,  its  flavor  and  spirit  are  lost. 

Shell-iish  have  long  held  a  high  rank  in 
the  catalogue  of  easily  digestible  and  speedi- 
ly restorative  foods;  of  these  Uie  oyster  cer- 


0¥S 


129 


OYS 


tainly  desenea  tlie  best  character,  but  we 
ditnk  it  has  acquired  not  a  little  more  repu- 
tation for  these  qualities  tlian  it  deserves ;  a 
well-dressed  chop  or  steak,  will  invigorate 
the  heart  in  a  much  higher  ratio ;  to  recruit 
the  animal  spirits,  and  sup|>ort  strengtli, 
there  is  nothing  equal  to  animal  food ;  when 
kept  till  properly  tender,  none  will  give  so 
little  trouble  to  the  digestive  organs,  and  so 
much  substantial  excitement  to  the  constitu- 
tion. 

OYSTER  ATTELETS.  Cut  into  small 
pieces  a  sweetbread  and  a  slice  or  two  of 
bacon,  beard  some  large  oysters,  and  season 
all  highly  with  chopped  parsley,  shallot,  a 
little  tljyme,  pe[)per  and  salt.  Then  fasten 
them  altennitely  upon  wire  skewers;  put 
sifted  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  broil  or 
fiy  them  of  a  light  brown  color.  Take  them 
on  the  skeweis,  and  serve  them  with  some 
rich  gravy,  to  which  add  a  little  ketchup  and 
lemon  pickle. 

OYSTERS,  BAKED.  Grate  a  small 
loaf  of  stale  bread.  Butter  a  deep  dish  well, 
and  cover  the  sides  and  bottom  with  bread 
crumbs.  Put  in  half  the  oysters  with  a  lit- 
tle mace  and  pepper.  Cover  them  with 
crumbs  and  small  bits  of  butter  strewed  over 
them.  Then  put  in  tlie  remainder  of  the 
oysters.  Season  them.  Cover  diem  as 
before  with  cri!H!!j.s  and  butter.  If  the  oys- 
ters are  fresh  pour  in  the  liquor.  If  they 
are  salt,  substitute  a  little  water.  Bake  it  a 
very  short  time. 

OYSTERS,  FRIED.  (1)  Make  a  batter 
as  for  pancakes,  seasoned  with  grated  nut- 
meg, white  |iep|>er,  and  salt,  and  add  some 
finely  grated  bread  crumbs ;  dip  in  the  oys- 
ters, and  fry  them  of  a  light  brown  in  beef 
dripping. 

Another  way  is,  to  dip  (hem  into  the  white 
of  an  egg  beat  up,  and  roll  diem  in  finely 
grated  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  grated 
nutmeg,  juipper  and  salt,  and  fry  Uiem  as 
directed. 

OYSTERS,  FRIED.  (2)  The  largest 
and  finest  f)ysters  are  to  lie  ch<)sen  for  this 
purpose;  simmer  them  in  their  own  liquor 
for  a  couple  of  minutes,  take  them  out  and 
lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain,  beard  them  and 
then  flour  them,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them, 
put  them  into  boiling  fat,  and  fry  them  a 
delicate  brown.  Obs. — An  elegant  garnish 
for  made  dishes,  stewed  rump-steaks,  boiled 
or  fried  fish,  &c. ;  but  diey  are  too  hard  and 
dry  to  be  eaten. 

OYSTERS,  FRIED.  (3)  For  frying, 
choose  tile  largest  and  finest  oysters.  Beat 
pome  yolks  of  eggs,  and  mix  with  tiiem  grat- 


ed bread,  and  a  small  quantity  of  beatra 
nutmeg  and  mace,  and  a  little  salt.  Hav- 
ing stirred  this  batter  well,  dip  yoiu-  oys- 
ters into  it,  and  fry  them  in  lard,  till  they 
are  of  a  light  brown  color.  Take  care  not 
to  do  tiiem  too  much.  Serve  Uiem  up  hot. 
For  grated  bread,  some  substitute  crackers 
pounded  to  a  powder,  and  mixed  widi  yolk 
of  egg  and  spice, 

OYSTERS,  TO  KEEP  AND  FAT- 
TEN. Put  them  into  water,  and  wash  and 
clean  them  with  a  birch  broom ;  laying  them 
with  the  deep  shell  downwards  into  a  tub  or 
broad  platter,  and  Uien  sprink  le  them  over  with 
salt.  The  ft)llowing  day  pour  over  them  and 
fill  the  vessel  with  clean  cold  water,  in  which 
they  must  remain  an  hour,  then  pour  it  off 
again ;  sprinkle  tiiem  with  salt,  and  let  this 
be  repeated  evei-y  day.  This  method  will 
keep  them  good  for  a  fortniglrt. 

OYSTER  KETCHUP.  (1)  Take 
fine  fresh  oysters ;  wash  them  in  their  own 
liquor;  skim  it;  pound  them  in  a  marble 
mortar ;  to  a  pint  of  oysters  add  a  pint  of 
Sherry ;  boil  them  up,  and  add  an  ounce  of 
salt,  two  drachms  of  j)oundcd  mace,  and  one 
of  cayenne;  let  it  just  boil  up  again;  skim 
it,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  when  cold, 
bottle  it,  cork    it  well,  and  seal   it  down. 

N.  B.  It  is  the  best  way  to  pound  the  salt 
and  spices,  &c.  witii  theoysters. 

Obs. — This  composition  very  agreeably 
heightens  the  flavor  of  white  sauces,  and 
white  made-dishes;  and  if  you  add  a  glass 
of  brandy  to  it,  it  will  keep  good  for  a  consi- 
derable time  longer  than  oysters  are  out  of 
season. 

OYSTER  KETCHUP.  (2)  Boil  one 
hundred  oysters  witii  their  liquor,  till  the 
strength  lje  extracted  from  tiiem ;  strain  them 
well,  and  add  to  the  liquor  an  equal  quanti- 
ty of  wine,  one  half  Port  and  the  other 
Sherry,  also  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace, 
the  same  of  white  pepper  and  of  allspice,  a 
drachm  or  tea-spoonful  of  ginger,  and  six 
anchovies;  boil  all  together  about  fifteen 
minutes.  Put  into  ajar  twelve  shallots,  tiie 
peel  of  a  lemon,  and  a  piece  of  horse-radish 
cut  small;  poui'  upon  tiiem  the  boiling  li- 
quor, and  when  cold,  bottle  it,  together  with 
tlie  spices. 

OYSTER  LOAVES.  Cut  off  the  top 
of  some  small  French  rolls,  take  out  tiie 
crumb,  and  fry  tiiem  brown  and  crisp  with 
clarified  butter,  tiien  fry  some  bread  crumbs ; 
stew  the  reciuisite  quantity  of  oysters,  beard- 
ed and  cut  in  two,  in  their  liquor,  with  a 
little  white  wine,  some  gravy,  and  seasoned 
with  grated  lemon-peel,  pounded  mace,  pep- 
per, and  salt;  add  a  bit  of  butter;  fill  the 


OYS 


130 


OYS 


roHs  with  the  oysters,  and  serve  them  with 
the  fried  bread  crumbs  in  the  dish. 

OYSTER  PATTIES.  (1)  Roll  out  puff 
paste  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into 
squares  with  a  knife,  sheet  eight  or  ten  patty 
pans,  put  upon  each  a  bit  of  bread  die  size 
of  half  a  walnut ;  roll  out  anotlier  layer  of 
paste  of  the  same  thickness,  cut  it  as  above, 
wet  the  edge  of  the  bottom  paste,  and  put 
on  the  top,  pare  diem  round  to  the  pan,  and 
notch  them  about  a  dozen  times  with  the 
back  of  the  knife,  rub  them  lightly  with  yolk 
of  egg,  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour :  when  done,  take  a  diin 
slice  off  the  top,  then,  with  a  small  knife  or 
spoon,  take  out  the  bread  and  the  inside 
paste,  leaving  the  outside  quite  entire ;  then 
parboil  two  dozen  of  large  oysters,  strain 
them  from  their  licjuor,  wash,  beard,  and  cut 
tliem  into  four,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
widi  an  ounce  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  half 
a  gill  of  good  cream,  a  little  grated  lemon- 
peel,  die  oyster  liquor,  free  from  sediment, 
reduced  by  boiling  to  one  half,  some  cayenne 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon- 
juice  ;  stir  it  over  a  fire  five  minutes,  and 
fill  the  patties. 

OYSTER  PATTIES.  (2)  Make  some 
rich  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  in  very  small  tin 
patty-pans.  When  cool,  turn  them  out  upon 
a  large  uish.  Stew  some  large  fresh  oysters 
witha  few  cloves,  a  little  mace  and  nutmeg, 
some  yolk  of  egg  boiled  hard  and  grated,  a 
little  butter,  and  as  much  of  the  oyster  liquor 
as  will  cover  diem.  When  they  have  stew- 
ed a  little  while,  take  them  out  of  the  pan, 
and  set  diem  away  to  cool.  When  quite 
cold,  lay  two  or  three  oysters  in  each  shell 
of  puff-jjaste. 

OYSTER  PIE.  Beard  a  quart  of  fine 
oysters,  strain  die  liquor,  and  add  diem  to 
it.  Cut  into  thin  slices  the  kidney  fat  of  a 
loin  of  veal;  season  them  with  while  pep- 
per, salt,  mace,  and  grated  lemon-peel ;  lay 
them  on  the  bottom  of  a  pie  dish,  put  in  the 
oysters  and  liquor,  with  a  little  more  season- 
ing ;  put  over  them  the  marrow  of  two  bones. 
Lay  a  border  of  puff  paste  round  the  edge  of 
the  dish ;  cover  it  widi  paste,  and  bake  it 
nearly  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

OYSTERS,  PRESERVED.  Open 
the  oysters  carefully,  so  as  not  to  cut  them 
except  in  dividing  die  gi'istle  which  attaches 
die  shells;  put  them  into  a  mortar,  and 
when  you  have  got  as  many  as  you  can  con- 
veniently pound  at  once,  add  about  two 
drachms  of  salt  to  a  dozen  oysters ;  pound 
them,  and  rub  them  through  the  back  of  a 
hair  sieve,  and  put  them  into  a  mortar  again, 
widi  as  much  flour  (which  has  been  pre- 


viously thoroughly  dried)  as  will  make  them 
into  a  paste ;  roll  it  out  several  times,  and, 
lastly,  flour  it,  and  roll  it  out  the  dilcknesg 
of  a  half-crown,  and  divide  it  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  square ;  lay  them  in  a  Dutch 
oven,  where  they  will  diy  so  gently  as  not  to 
get  burnt:  turn  them  every  half  hour,  and 
when  diey  begin  to  dry,  cnimble  them ;  they 
will  take  about  four  hours  to  dry;  then 
pound  them  fine,  sift  them,  and  put  diem 
into  bottles  and  seal  them  over. 

N.  B.  Three  dozen  required  seven  and  a 
half  ounces  of  dried  flour  to  make  them  into 
a  paste  which  then  Weighed  eleven  ounces ; 
when  dried  and  powdered,  six  and  a  quar- 
ter ounces. 

To  make  half  a  pint  of  sauce,  put  one 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  diree 
di-achms  of  oyster  powder,  and  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire;  stir 
it  till  it  boils,  and  season  it  with  salt. 

This  powder,  if  made  with  plump,  juicy 
oysters,  will  abound  widi  the  flavor  of  the 
fish;  and  if  closely  corked,  and  kept  in  a 
dry  place,  will  remain  good  for  sometime. 

This  extract  is  a  welcome  succedaneum 
while  oysters  are  out  of  season,  and  in  such 
inland  parts  as  seldom  have  any,  is  a  valua- 
ble addition  to  the  list  of  fish  sauces:  it  is 
equally  good  widi  boiled  fowl,  or  nimp  steak, 
and  sprinkled  on  bread  and  butter  makes  a 
very  good  sandwich,  and  is  esjiecially  wor- 
thy the  notice  of  country  housekeepers,  and 
as  a  store  sauce  for  the  army  and  navy. 

OYSTERS,  TO  PICKLE.  Open  them 
carefully,  preserving  all  their  liquor;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  stirring 
them  now  and  dien,  and  when  the  liquor 
boils  take  diem  off,  skim  die  surface,  and 
put  the  oysters  into  a  bowl;  let  the  liquor 
settle,  pour  off  the  clear  part,  and  put  it  on 
to  boil,  with,  to  three  hundred  oysters,  half 
an  ounr^  of  whole  black  pepper,  a  little 
mace  and  allspice;  boil  it  ten  minutes,  then 
add  the  oysters,  and  let  diem  boil  two  min- 
utes ;  put  diem  into  a  jar,  and  when  they 
are  cold,  tie  a  paper  over  it. 

OYSTER  SAUCE.  When  your  oys- 
ters are  opened,  take  care  of  all  the  liquor 
and  give  them  one  boil  in  it.  Then  take 
die  oysters  out,  and  put  to  die  liquor  three 
or  four  blades  of  mace.  Add  to  it  some 
melted  butter,  and  some  thick  cream  or 
rich  milk.  Put  in  your  oysters  and  give 
them  a  boil. 

OYSTERSOUP.  (1)  Three  pints  of  large 
fi-esh  oysters.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, rolled  in  flour.  A  bunch  of  sweet  herbs. 
A  quart  of  rich  milk.  Pepper  to  your  taste. 
Take  the  liquor  of  three  pints  of  oysters. 
Strain  it,  and  set  it  on  die  fii-e.     Put  into  it. 


OYS 


131 


OYS 


pepper  to  your  taste,  two  table-spoonAils  of 
cutter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet 
marjoram  and  other  pot-herbs.  When  it 
boils  add  a  quart  of  rich  milk — and  as  soon 
as  it  boils  again  take  out  the  herbs,  and 
put  in  the  oysters  just  before  you  send  it  to 
table. 

OYSTER  SOUP.  (2)  Boil  in  water  die 
crumb  of  two  twopenny  rolls,  with  a  few  blades 
of  mace,  a  tea-spoonfiil  of  whole  white  pep- 
per, and  four  onions  cut  small.  Pick  out 
tlie  spice,  and  rub  the  bread  and  onions 
tlu'ough  a  hair  sieve,  then  add  it  to  three 
quarts  of  well-seasoned  strong  veal  stock. 
Rub  down  tlu'ee  ounces  of  butter,  witli  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  mix  it  gradually 
with  half  a  pint  of  the  soup,  and  then  stir  all 
well  together.  When  it  has  boiled  a  short 
time,  add  with  tlie  liquor  half  a  hundred  or 
more  of  fine  oysters,  and  let  the  whole  sim- 
mer for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  If  tlie  soup 
is  not  quite  salt  enough  with  the  liquor  of 
the  oysters,  a  little  salt  may  be  added. 

OYSTERS  SCALLOPED.  (1)  Put 
them,  with  their  liquorstrained,  two  or  three 
blades  of  mace,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  little 
cayenne,  and  a  piece  of  butter  tlie  size  of  a 
walnut,  kneaded  with  flour,  into  a  stewpan. 
Simmer  them  very  gently  for  half  an  hour, 
by  no  means  letting  them  boil ;  pick  out  the 
mace  and  pepper ;  have  ready,  finely  grated 
bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper  and 
salt;  put  into  the  scallop-shells,  or  into  a 
dish,  alternately  a  layer  of  bread-cnimbs, 
then  one  of  oysters  and  part  of  their  liquor ; 
and  stick  over  the  last  layer  of  bread-crumbs 
a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  brown  tliem  in  a 
Dutch  oven  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

OYSTERS  SCALLOPED.  (2)  Take 
off  the  beards,  stew  them  in  their  liquor 
strained,  widi  a  little  mace,  white  pepper, 
and  salt.  Fry  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  bit  of 
butter,  some  grated  bread-crumbs,  till  of  a 
nice  brown;  put  them  alternately  with  the 
oysters  into  a  dish. 

OYSTERS  SCALLOPED.  (3)  A 
good  way  to  warm  up  any  cold  fish.  Stew 
die  oysters  slowly  in  Uieir  own  liquor  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  take  them  out  with  a  spoon, 
beard  them,  and  skim  the  liquor,  put  a  bit 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
add  as  much  fine  bread-crumbs  as  will  dry 
it  up,  then  put  to  it  the  oyster  liquor,  and 
give  it  a  boil  up,  put  the  oysters  into  scal- 
lop-shells that  you  have  buttered,  and  strew- 
ed with  bread-crumbs,  then  a  layer  of  oys- 
ters, then  of  bread-crumbs,  and  then  some 
more  oysters ;  moisten  it  with  Qie  oyster  li- 


quor, cover  them  with  bread-crumbs,  pat 
about  half  a  dozen  little  bits  of  butter  on  the 
top  of  each,  and  brown  them  in  a  Dutch  ov- 
en. Essence  of  anchovy,  ketchup,  cayenne, 
grated  lemon-peel,  mace,  and  other  spices, 
&c.  are  added  by  diose  who  prefer  piquance 
to  the  genuine  flavor  of  the  oyster. 

Cold  fish  may  be  re-dressed  the  same  way 
N.  B.  Small  scallop-shells,  or  saucers  that 
hold  about  half  a  dozen  oysters,  are  the  most 
convenient. 

OYSTERS  STEWED.  (1)  Stew  with 
a  quart  of  oysters,  and  their  liquor  strained, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  one  anchovy  bniised, 
seasoned  with  white  pepper,  salt,  a  little 
mace,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  let  all 
stew  gently  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Pick  out 
the  bunch  of  herbs,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter  kneaded  in  a  large  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  flour,  and  stew  them  ten  or 
twelve  minutes.  Serve  them  garnished  with 
bread-sippets  and  cut  lemon.  They  may  te 
stewed  simply  in  their  own  liquor,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg,  and 
thickened  with  cream,  flour,  and  butter. 

OYSTERS  STEWED.  (2)  Open  the 
oysters  and  strain  the  liquor.  Put  to  them 
some  grated  stale  bread,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  nutmeg.  Throw  them  into  the  liquor, 
and  add  a  glass  of  white  wine.  Let  tliem 
stew  but  a  very  short  time,  or  they  will  be 
hard.  Have  ready  some  slices  of  buttered 
toast  widi  the  crust  off".  When  the  oysters 
are  done,  dip  the  toast  in  the  liquor,  and 
lay  the  pieces  round  the  sides  and  in  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  dish.  Pour  die  oystei-s  and 
liquor  upon  the  toast  and  send  them  to  ta- 
ble hot. 

OYSTERS  STEWED.  (3)  Large  oys- 
ters  will  do  for  stewing,  and  by  some  are  pre- 
ferred. Stew  a  couple  of  dozen  of  these  in 
dieir  own  liquor;  when  they  are  coming  to  a 
boil,  skim  well,  take  them  up  and  beard  them ; 
strain  die  liquor  through  a  tamis-sieve,  and 
lay  the  oysters  on  a  dish.  Put  an  ounce  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
put  to  it  as  much  flour  as  will  dry  it  up,  the 
liquor  of  the  oysters,  and  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  milk  or  cream,  and  a  little  white  pep- 
per and  salt;  to  this  some  cooks  add  a  little 
ketchup,  or  finely-chop|)ed  parsley,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  juice;  let  it  boil  up  for  a 
couple  of  minutes,  till  it  is  smooth,  dien  take 
it  off"  the  fire,  put  in  the  oysters,  and  let  them 
gel  warm  (diey  must  not  diemselves  be  boil- 
ed, or  they  will  become  hard) ;  line  the  bot- 
tom and  sides  of  a  hash-dish  with  bread- 
sippets,  and  pour  your  oysters  and  sauce 
into  it. 


PAN 


1132 


PAN 


P. 


PALATES  AND  SWEETBREADS. 
Boil  the  palates  till  the  black  skin  can  be 
easily  peeled  off;  parboil  the  sweetbreads 
with  them;  skin  and  cut  the  palates  into 
pieces,  and  if  the  sweetbreads  ai-e  large,  cut 
them  in  two  the  long  way ;  dust  them  with 
flour,  and  fry  tliera  of  a  light  brown,  in  but- 
ter ;  then  stew  them  in  rather  more  tlian  a 
pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled. 
Brown  a  piece  of  butter  with  flour;  add 
it,  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  pepper,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg,  and  a  glass  of  white 
wine.  A  little  before  serving,  stir  in  a 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  or  tlie  squeeze  of  a  lem- 


PANADA.  (1)  Boil  some  pieces  of  stale 
bread  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cold  water 
to  cover  them,  with  a  little  cinnamon,  lemon- 
peel,  and  caraways ;  when  the  bread  is  quite 
soft,  press  out  all  the  water,  and  beat  up  the 
bread  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  little 
milk,  and  sugar  to  the  taste ;  a  little  spice 
may  be  added. 

PANADA.  (2)  Set  a  little  water  on 
the  fire  with  a  glass  of  white  wine,  some  su- 
gar, a  veiy  little  nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel ; 
meanwhile  grate  some  crumbs  of  bread :  the 
moment  the  water  boils  up,  put  in  the  bread- 
crumbs (without  taking  it  off  the  fire),  and 
let  it  boil  as  fast  as  it  can.  When  of  a 
proper  consistence,  that  is,  when  just  of  a 
sufficient  thickness  to  drink,  tsike  it  off  the 
fire. 

PANCAKES  AND  FRITTERS.  Break 
three  eggs  in  a  basin ;  beat  them  up  with  a 
little  nutmeg  and  salt ;  then  put  to  them  four 
ounces  and  a  half  of  flour,  and  a  little  milk ; 
beat  it  of  a  smooth  batter ;  then  add  by  de- 
grees as  much  milk  as  will  make  it  of  the 
thickness  of  good  cream:  the  frying-pan  must 
be  about  the  size  of  a  pudding  plate,  and 
vexy  clean,  or  they  will  stick ;  make  it  hot, 
and  to  each  pancake  put  in  a  bit  of  butter 
about  as  big  as  a  walnut:  when  it  is  melted, 
pour  in  the  batter  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan;  make  them  the  thickness  of  half  a 
crown;  fry  them  of  a  light  brown  on  both 
sides.  The  above  will  do  for  apple  fritters, 
by  adding  one  spoonful  more  of  flour ;  peel 
your  apples,  and  cut  them  in  tliick  slices ; 
take  out  the  core,  dip  them  in  the  batter, 
and  fry  diem  in  hot  lard ;  put  them  on  a 
sieve  to  drain ;  dish  them  neatly,  and  grate 
some  loaf-sugai'  over  tliem. 


PANCAKES  IN  APPLES.    Cut  some 

apples  very  small,  stew  them  with  a  little 
white  wine,  grated  lemon-peel,  pounded  cin- 
namon, and  brown  sugar ;  mash  them,  and 
spread  it  over  pancakes ;  roll  them  up,  and 

I  serve  with  sifted  loaf-sugar  over  them. 

I 

I  PANCAKES  COMMON.  With  near- 
ly  half  a  pound  of  flour,  mix  five  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  dien  add,  by  degrees,  a  quart  of 
good  milk;  fry  them  in  fresh  lard,  and 
serve  them  with  pounded  loaf-sugar  sti-ewed 

i  between  each. 

I  PANCAKES  FINE.  To  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  add  six  well-beaten  eggs, 
thi"ee  table-spoonfuls  of  while  wine,  four 
ounces  of  melted  butter  nearly  cold,  tlie  same 
quantity  of  pounded  loaf-sugar,  half  a  grated 

I  nutmeg,  and  a  pint  of  cream ;  mix  it  well, 

I  beating  the  batter  for  sometime,  and  poor 

'  it  thm  over  the  pan. 

I  PANCAKE,  RICE.  Add  to  three  well- 
\  beaten  eggs  a  pint  of  new  milk,  three  table- 
'  spoonfiils  of  boiled  rice,  some  sugar,  and  a 
little  pounded  cinnamon ;  mix  it  all  well  to- 
gether, and  fry  it  in  butter ;  brown  the  up- 
!  per  side  for  a  minute  before  the  fire ;  serve 
I  it,  cut  into  four,  widi  pounded  sugai-  strewed 
'  over  it. 

I      PANCAKE  RISSOLES.     Mince  fine- 

j  ly  some  cold  veal,  season  it  with  grated  lem- 

I  on-peel,  nutmeg,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 

!  lemon  pickle ;  warm  it  up  with  some  good 

gravy,  and  a  small   bit  of  butter  rolled  in 

!  flour.     Have  ready  a  batter  as  for  pancakes, 

I  seasoned  with  a  little  salt  and  grated  nutmeg. 

j  Fry  a  thin  pancake,  turn  it,  and  put  into 

I  the  middle  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  minced 

I  veal;  fold  it  in  at  each  side  and  at  die  ends 

in  an  oblong  fonn,  and  fry  them  of  a  light 

brown  color  ;  lay  them  upon  die  back  of  a 

sieve  to  drain  before  the  fire.     Four  or  six 

I  will   make  a  dish.     They  are  served  as  a 

I  corner  or  top  dish. 

PANCAKES,  SCOTCH.      Mix   with 

six  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  a  little  cream,  add 

the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  then  mix  in 

a  pint  of  cream,  the  giated  peel  of  a  small 

lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of  pounded  sugar, 

j  and  a  little  ratafia ;  when  the  batter  is  very 

well  lieaten,  and  just  before  using,  mix  in 

I  the  whites  of  die  eggs  beaten  widi  a  knife, 

i  to  a  stiff  frodi.     Put  a  little  butter  or  lard 

1  into  the  fiying-pan,  make  it  hot,  pour  it  out, 

I  and  wipe  the  pan  with  a  clean  cloth ;  put  in 

;  some  butter  or  lard,  and  when  hot,  jjour  in  a 

i  tea-cupful  of  the  batter;  shake  it,  and  when 

I  fiurm,  prick  it  a  little  with  a  fork,  but  do  not 

I  turn  it ;  hold  it  before  the  fire  a  minute  to 


PAR 


133 


PAR 


Inown.    Serve  them  with  pounded  loaf-su- 
.gar  strewed  over  them. 

PANCAKE,  THICK.  Beat  separate- 
ly the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  egqs ;  mix 
witli  tlie  yolks  a  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of 
flour,  a  little  sugar  and  white  wine,  half  a 
pint  of  cream  or  good  milk ;  add  the  whites, 
and  fry  it  in  a  broad  saucepan,  with  butter 
or  clarified  suet ;  brown  the  upper  side  be- 
fore the  fire;  warm  any  sort  of  preserve, 
spread  it  upon  one  half,  and  turn  the  other 
over  it,  and  sti-ew  upon  it  pounded  loaf  su- 
gar. 

PANNEQUETS.  Put  into  a  pan,  two 
ounces  of  sifted  flour,  four  of  powder-sugar, 
the  same  of  bitter  macaroons,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  dried  orange-flowers;  break  up  all 
tliese  articles,  and  mix  vvidi  them  the  yolks 
often  eggs,  four  large  ghisses  of  double  cream, 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Wash  the  bottom  of  a 
frying-pan  lightly  with  some  warm  clarified 
butter,  then  put  in  it  a  spoonful  of  the  above 
preparation,  spread  it  over  the  pan,  to  make 
tlie  paste  as  tliin  as  jwssible ;  when  die  pan- 
nequet  becomes  lightly  colored,  turn  it  over 
carefully,  and  do  the  other  side ;  then  put  it 
on  a  tin  plate,  spread  a  little  apricot  marma- 
lade over,  and  having  strewed  ci'ushed  maca- 
roons on  that,  roll  up  die  pannequet  till  about 
an  inch  in  diameter;  in  die  meantime  put  a 
second  spoonful  of  your  preparation  into  the 
pan,  and  proceed  in  the  above  manner,  gar- 
nishing one  pannequet  whilst  another  is 
cooking;  taking  care,  however,  to  set  the 
pan  over  a  gentle  fire.  When  all  are  done, 
cut  the  pannequets  three  inches  in  length, 
glaze,  and  dish  diem. 

PARSLEY.  To  preserve  parsley  through 
the  winter: — in  May,  June,  or  July,  take 
fine  fresh-gathered  sprigs;  pick,  and  wash 
them  clean ;  set  on  a  stewpan  half  full  of  wa- 
ter; put  a  little sjilt  in  it;  boil,  and  skiin  it 
clean,  and  dien  put  in  the  parsley,  and  let  it 
boil  for  a  couple  of  minutes ;  take  it  out,  and 
lay  it  on  a  sieve  before  the  fire,  that  it  may 
be  dried  as  quick  as  possible ;  put  it  by  in  a 
tin  box,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry  place:  when 
you  want  it,  lay  it  in  a  basin,  and  cover  it 
with  warm  water  a  few  m^wtes  before  you 
use  it. 

PARSLEY  BUTTER.  Wash  some 
parsley  very  clean,  and  pick  it  carefully  leaf 
ty  leaf;  put  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  into  half 
a  pint  of  boiling  water:  boil  the  parsley 
about  ten  minutes;  drain  it  on  a  sieve; 
mince  it  quite  fine,  and  then  bruise  it  to  a 
pulp.  The  delicacy  and  excellence  of  Uiis 
elegant  and  innocent  relish  de|jend8  u»)on  the 
parsley  being  minced  very  fine:  put  it  into  a 
sauce-boat,  and  mix  with  it,  by  degrees, 
12 


about  half  a  pmt  of  good  melted  butter,  odi]^ 
do  not  put  so  much  flour  to  it,  as  the  paw- 
ley  will  add  to  its  thickness:  never  poiMr 
parsley  and  butter  over  boiled  things,  but 
send  it  up  in  a  boat. 

PARSLEY,  CRISP.  Pick  and  wash 
young  parsley,  shake  it  in  a  diy  cloth  to 
drain  the  water  from  it ;  spread  it  on  a  sheet 
of  clean  paper  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  the 
fire,  and  turn  it  frequently  until  it  is  quite 
crisp.  This  is  a  much  more  easy  way  of 
preparing  it  than  frying  it,  which  is  not  sel- 
dom ill  done. 

PARSNIPS,  TO  BOIL.  Scrape  and 
wash  them  nicely ;  when  large,  divide  them ; 
boil  them  in  milk  and  water  till  quite  tender; 
they  will  take  nearly  as  long  to  boil  as  car- 
rots. They  may  also  be  mashed  like  tur- 
nips. 

PARTRIDGES,  TO  CHOOSE.  When 
they  are  young  the  bill  is  of  a  dark  color, 
and  Uieir  legs  are  of  a  yellowish  color ;  and 
when  fresh,  the  vent  is  firm,  but  diis  part 
will  look  greenish  when  stale.  The  plumage 
on  die  breast  of  the  hen  is  light,  tliat  on  the 
cock  is  tinged  with  red. 

PARTRIDGES  BROILED.  Take 
five  parti-idges,  cut  them  in  halves,  trim  and 
dip  them  in  melted  buttei-,  and  bread  them 
twice ;  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  dinner 
broil  them. 

PARTRIDGES  MINCED.  Take  the 
fillets  from  eight  roasted  partridges,  mince, 
and  put  them  into  a  saucepan ;  make  a  light 
roux,  in  which  put  the  livers  and  lights  of 
the  birds,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove,  three  shallots, 
and  a  little  sage,  give  Uiem  a  few  turns,  and 
then  add  two  laige  glasses  of  stock,  reduce 
the  sauce  to  half,  stiain  and  put  it  to  the 
mince,  stirring  till  it  is  thick  and  smooth ; 
make  it  hot,  but  not  boiling;  serve  it  over 
fried  bread,  and  garnish  your  dish,  with 
either  poached  or  hard  eggs. 

PARTRIDGE  IN  BREAD.  Take  a 
nice  shaped  loaf,  of  about  a  pound  weight; 
make  a  hole  at  one  end,  through  which  take 
out  all  die  crumbs,  rub  the  crust  over  with  a 
little  butter  or  lard,  and  set  it  in  the  oven  for 
a  few  minutes  to  dry:  fill  this  with  minced 
partridge  (see  that  article),  and  put  the  loaf, 
bottom  upwards,  into  a  stewpan ;  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  veal  blond,  with  any  other  gar- 
nish you  please;  let  it  remain  on  the  fire  till 
the  bread  is  soft  enough  to  allow  a  straw  to 
penetrate  it,  then  take  it  out  and  dish  it  with 
the  sauce  round. 

PARTRIDGE  PIE  IN  A  DISH.  Take 


PAR 


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SxHc  partridges,  pick  and  singe  them;  cut 
off  their  legs  at  the  knee;  season  with  pep- 
per, salt,  chopped  jjarsley,  thyme,  and  musli- 
rooms.  Put  a  veaJ  steak  and  a  slice  of  ham 
at  the  bottom  of  the  dish ;  put  in  the  par- 
tridges with  half  a  pint  of  good  consomme. 
Line  the  edges  of  the  dish  with  puff  paste, 
and  cover  with  die  same;  do  it  over  with 
egg,  and  let  it  bake  for  an  hour. 

PARTRIDGE  TO  ROAST.  Take 
out  the  entrails,  and  singe  the  partridge  over 
tlie  stove,  riien  roll  a  bit  of  butter  in  pepper 
and  salt,  and  put  it  into  the  inside  of  the 
bird ;  truss  it  neatly  with  the  head  turned  on 
one  side,  keeping  the  breast  as  full  as  possi- 
ble ;  over  which  should  be  laid  slices  of  fat 
bacon  tied  on  with  pack-thread  ;  before  it  is 
put  on  the  spit,  break  the  back-bone,  that  it 
may  lay  the  better  on  tlie  dish.  A  good 
sized  partridge  will  take  half  an  hour ;  when 
nearly  done,  take  away  the  bacon,  brown 
the  partridge  well ;  sprinkle  it  with  flour  and 
salt,  and  froth  it  with  butter;  serve  it  with 
water-cresses,  a  good  gravy  under  it,  and 
bread  sauce  in  a  boat. 

PARTRIDGE  TO  TRUSS.  Let  it  be 
well  picked  and  singed,  then  cut  a  slit  in 
the  back  of  the  neck,  and  carefully  take  the 
crop  out  without  breaking  it;  then  cut  off 
the  vent,  and  draw  out  the  inside;  after  this, 
well  wipe  tlie  inside,  and  tlien  pui  in  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  mixed  with  a  bit  of  butter. 
Having  cleansed  it,  proceed  to  truss  the 
bird,  by  first  cutting  off  the  pinion  at  the  first 
joint,  so  that  the  feathers  need  not  be  picked 
off  that  part ;  break  die  back-bone,  and  truss 
it  in  the  same  manner  as  a  fowl,  by  pressing 
the  legs  close  to  the  apron,  then  turn  the  bird 
on  the  breast,  and  run  a  skewer  through  the 
end  of  the  pinion,  the  leg,  the  body,  and  the 
leg  and  pinion  on  the, other  side,  with  the 
head  fixed  on  the  end  of  the  skewer,  and 
over  the  breast  lay  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and 
tie  it  on  with  pack-thread.  If  for  boiling  or 
stewing,  truss  them  tlie  same  as  a  fowl  for 
boiling. 

PARTRIDGES  TO  Sl^EW.  Truss 
the  partridges  as  fowls  are  done  for  boiling ; 
pound  the  livers  with  double  the  quantity  of 
fat  bacon  and  bread-crumbs  boiled  in  milk; 
and  some  chopped  parsley,  thyme,  shallots, 
and  mushrooms;  season  widi  pepjjer,  salt, 
grated  lemon-peel,  and  mace.  Stufl'  tlie  in- 
side of  the  birds,  tie  them  at  both  ends,  and 
put  tliem  into  a  stewpan  lined  with  slices  of 
bacon ;  add  a  quart  of  good  stock,  half  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  two  onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  a  few  blades  of  mace ;  let  them 
stew  gently  till  tender ;  take  them  out,  strain 
and  tliicken  the  sauce  with  flour  and  butter, 
make  it  hot,  and  pour  it  over  the  partridges. 


PASTE.  Be  very  particular  that  yonr 
slab  or  paste  table,  rolling-pin  and  cutter* 
are  clean,  and  free  from  all  old  paste,  and  be 
very  careful  that  both  the  flour  and  butter 
are  extremely  good.  Have  a  dry  sieve  al- 
ways in  readiness,  in  or  by  the  flour  tub, 
so  as  to  use  none  without  sifting  it;  for, 
though  it  may  appear  pure  and  fine,  bran,  or 
small  particles  of  old  paste  may  have  fallen 
into  it;  sifting  is,  therefore,  always  neces- 
sary. Weigh  one  pound  of  flour,  lay  it  in  a 
circle  on  the  slab:  break  one  egg  in  the  cen- 
tre, put  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  a  little 
bit  of  butter ;  mix  all  these  together  lightly, 
add  a  little  water,  mix  them  again,  then  add 
more  water,  and  so  proceed  until  it  binds 
into  paste;  but  take  care  that  you  do  not 
make  it  too  stiff,  nor  squeeze  it  much  to- 
gether, till  you  find  there  is  sufficient  water; 
then  work  it  wel?  together,  and  roll  it  out  on 
the  slab,  but  do  not  roll  it  too  thin ;  work  a 
pound  of  butter  on  tlie  slab,  spread  it  out  to 
the  size  of  the  paste,  with  a  knife  cut  it  off 
altogether,  and  lay  it  on  the  paste;  then 
double  the  ends  of  the  paste  together,  to  in- 
close the  butter;  then  give  it  one  turn,  thus: 
roll  it  out  till  you  just  perceive  the  butter 
through  the  paste;  turn  the  end  which  is 
next  to  you  half  way  over,  and  the  other  end 
over  that,  roll  it  once  or  twice  with  the  roll- 
ing-pin ;  then  let  it  stand,  this  is  called  one 
turn;  then,  in  three  minutes  time,  turn  it 
again,  and  so  proceed  until  you  have  given 
it  six  turns;  then  roll  it  out,  and  cut  it  for 
patties  or  any  shajie  you  please ;  but  observe 
not  to  put  over  tliem  too  much  e^g,  as  that 
will  prevent  their  rising;  as  soon  as  tliey 
are  baked,  take  them  off"  the  sheet,  lay  them 
on  paper,  and  when  cold,  scrape  die  bottoms, 
neatly  cut  out  the  insides  ready  for  what- 
ever you  mean  to  put  into  them.  For  bak- 
ing, see  directions  for  the  oven. 

PASTE,    BEEF    DRIPPING.      Rub 

into  one  pound  of  flour  half  a  ]X)und  of 
clarified  beef  dripping,  till  it  all  looks  like 
flour;  work  it  to  a  stiff" paste  with  cold  wa- 
ter, and  roll  it  out  two  or  three  times.  This 
paste  answers  very  well  for  common  pies,  but 
must  be  used  when  hot  and  fresh  bAed. 

PASTE  FOR  BOILED  PUDDINGS. 

Pick  and  chop  very  fine  half  a  pound  of  beef 
suet,  add  to  it  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
flour,  and  a  little  salt:  mix  it  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk  or  water,  and  beat  it  well  with 
the  rolling-pin,  to  incorporate  the  suet  with 
the  flour. 

PASTE  FOR  CHEESECAKES.   Rub 

equal  quantities  of  flour  and  butter,  together 
widi  a  little  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
make  it  into  a  paste,  with  warm  milk,  roll 
it  oui,  and  line  tlie  pans  with  it. 


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PASTE,  CRISP.  Rub  a  quarter  of  a 
poand  of  flour,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
pounded  loaf-sugar,  and  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  two  or  three  eggs,  work  it  well  with  a 
horn-spoon,  and  roll  it  out  very  thin,  touch- 
ing it  as  little  as  possible  with  the  hands ; 
the  moment  l)efore  putting  into  a  quick  oven 
rub  it  over  with  the  well-beaten  white  of  an 
egg,  and  sift  all  over  the  tart  finely-pounded 
sugar.  This  crust  may  be  used  for  any  fruit 
tarts. 

PASTE  FOR  CROQUANTS  OR 
Cut  Pastry.  To  half  a  pound  of  fine 
flour  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  loaf- 
sugar;  mix  it  well  together  with  yolks  of 
eggs  till  of  a  good  stiflfness. 

PASTE  FOR  A  COMMON  DUM- 
PLING. Rub  into  a  pound  of  flour  six 
ounces  of  butter,  then  work  it  into  a  paste 
with  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  a  little  water. 
This  paste  may  be  baked,  a  large  table-spoon- 
ful of  pounded  loaf-sugar  being  added  to  it. 

PASTE  FOR  FAMILY  PIES.    Rub 

into  one  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  wet  it  with  cold  water  suffi- 
cient to  make  it  into  a  stiff"  paste ;  work  it 
well,  and  roll  it  out  two  or  three  times. 

PASTE,  POTATO.  Mash  sixteen  oun- 
ces of  boiled  potatoes,  while  they  are  warm, 
then  rub  them  between  the  hands,  together 
with  twelve  ounces  of  flour ;  when  it  is  well 
mixed,  and  all  Iqoks  like  flour,  add  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and,  witli  a  little  cold 
water,  make  it  into  a  stiff"  paste ;  beat  and 
roll  it  out  three  or  four  times,  making  it  very 
thin  the  last  time.  Lay  it  over  black  cur- 
i"ant  jam,  raspberries,  or  any  sort  of  preserve, 
rub  the  edges  with  water,  roll  it  up  like  a 
bolster  pudding,  and  boil  it  in  a  buttered 
and  floured  cloth  for  three  or  four  hours. 
Serve  it  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

PASTE,  PUFF.  Weigh  an  equal  qnan- 
tity  of  flour  and  butter,  rub  rather  more  tlian 
the  half  of  the  flour  into  one  third  of  the 
butter,  then  add  as  much  cold  water  as  will 
make  it  into  a  stiff" paste;  work  it  until  tlie 
butter  be  completely  mixed  with  the  flour, 
make  it  round,  beat  it  with  the  rolling-pin, 
dust  it,  as  also  the  rolling-pin,  with  flour,  and 
roll  it  out  towards  the  opposite  side  of  the 
slab,  or  paste-board,  making  it  of  an  equal 
thickness;  then  witli  the  point  of  a  knife  put 
little  bits  of  butter  all  over  it,  dust  flour  over 
and  under  it,  fold  in  the  sides  and  roll  it  up, 
dust  it  again  with  flour,  beat  it  a  little,  and 
roll  it  out,  always  rubbing  the  rolling-pin 
with  flour,  and  throwing  some  underneath  the 
paste,  to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  board. 
If  tlie  butter  is  not  all  easily  put  in  at  the 


second  time  of  rolling  out  the  paste,  the 
remainder  maybe  put  in  at  the  third;  it 
should  be  touched  as  little  as  possible  with 
the  hands. 

PASTE,  PYRAMID.  Make  a  rich 
puff"  paste,  roll  it  out  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  cut  it  into  five  or  seven  pieces 
with  scalloped  tin  paste  cutters,  which  go 
one  within  another ;  leave  the  bottom  and 
top  piece  entire,  and  cut  a  bit  out  of  the 
centre  of  the  others ;  bake  them  of  a  light 
brown  upon  buttered  paper  placed  upon  tins. 
When  served,  build  them  into  a  pyramid, 
laying  a  diff"erent  preserved  fruit  upon  each 
piece  of  paste,  and  on  the  top  a  whole  apri- 
cot, with  a  sprig  of  myx'tle  stuck  into  it,  or 
green-gages,  ornamented  with  a  bunch  of 
barberries. 

PASTE  FOR  MEAT  OR  SAVORY 
PIES.  Sift  two  pounds  of  fine  flour  to  one 
and  a  half  of  good  salt  butter,  break  it  into 
small  pieces,  and  wash  it  well  in  cold  wa- 
ter; rub  gently  together  the  butter  and  flour, 
and  mix  it  up  with  the  yolk  of  three  eggs, 
beat  together  with  a  spoon;  and  nearly  a 
pint  of  spring-water ;  roll  it  out,  and  double 
it  in  folds  Uiree  times,  and  it  is  ready. 

PASTE  FOR  RAISED  PIES.    Take 

four  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of  butter, 
and  a  little  salt,  mix  these  together,  adding 
water,  a  little  at  a  time,  taking  care  not  to 
put  too  much,  as  this  paste  must  b^  made  as 
stiff"  as  possible;  when  thoroughly  mixed, 
give  it  two  or  three  turns,  roll  it  and  cut  it 
out  to  the  shape  you  want  for  your  pie. 
Sometimes  the  butter  is  melted  in  warm  wa- 
ter, and  so  mixed  with  the  flour;  then  it 
will  not  require  so  much  wat-er,  and  the 
paste  will  stand  better;  but  as  you  work 
your  paste,  when  you  find  it  get  too  cold, 
warm  it  a  little ;  the  first  method  of  doing 
it  is  the  best,  if  intended  to  be  eaten. 

PASTE,  RICE.  (1)  Mix  together  half 
a  pound  of  sifted  ground  rice  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fresii  butter,  work  it  into  a 
paste  with  cold  water,  dredge  flour  over  the 
paste-board  and  rolling-pin,  roll  out  the 
paste,  and  put  over  it,  in  little  bits,  another 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  fold  and  roll  it 
out  three  times,  strewing  each  time  a  little 
flour  over  and  under  it,  as  also  over  the 
rolling-pin.  Cover  the  tart,  and  glaze  it  be- 
fore being  baked.  This  paste  must  be  eaten 
the  day  it  is  baked. 

PASTE,  RICE.  (2)  Boil,  in  a  pint  of 
water,  half  a  pound  of  good  rice ;  drain  off"  the 
water,  and  pound  the  rice  in  a  mortar,  with 
a  small  bit  of  butter,  and  an  egg  beaten } 
then  roll  it  out  to  cover  any  fruit  tart. 


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PASTE,  RICH  SHORT.  Weigh 
equal  quantities  of  flom*,  of  butter,  and  of 
pounded  and  sifted  loaf-sugar;  rub  the  but- 
ter with  the  floui-,  then  mix  in  the  sugar, 
and  rub  it  together  till  it  will  roll  out ;  put 
it  about  half  an  inch  tliick  over  the  tart, 
which  may  be  of  cheiries,  raspberries,  or 
currants. 

PASTE,    SHORT,    FOR    TARTS. 

Take  one  poimd  of  flour,  lay  it  on  the  slab, 
and  in  the  centre  put  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
two  eggs,  a  very  little  salt,  and  a  little  wa- 
ter, mix  them  lightly  togetlier,  and  continue 
adding  more  water,  till  you  find  it  bind ;  mix 
it  on  the  slab  a  little,  and  give  it  two  turns, 
it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

PASTE,  SUET.  Rub  well  with  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  beef  suet,  chopped  as  finely  as 
possible,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour, 
and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt;  make  it  into 
a  stiff  paste  with  cold  water,  work  it  well, 
beat  it  with  the  rolling-pin,  and  roll  it  out 
two  or  three  times.  This  paste  answers  for 
any  kind  of  boiled  fi-uit  pudding. 

PASTE,  SWEET.  Rub  into  half  a 
pound  of  flour  three  ounces  of  butter  and  the 
same  of  pounded  loaf-sugar,  add  one  Ijeaten 
egg,  and  as  much  warm  water  as  will  make 
it  into  a  paste ;  roll  it  thin  for  any  kind  of 
fruit  tart,  rub  it  over  with  the  beaten  white 
of  an  egg,  and  sift  sugar  over  it. 

PASTE  FOR  STRINGING  TART- 
LETS. Mix  with  your  hands  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  flour,  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter, 
and  a  little  cold  water;  nib  it  well  between 
the  board  and  your  hand  till  it  begins  to 
string ;  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  roll  it  out, 
and  draw  it  into  fine  sti'ings,  lay  them  across 
your  taitlets  in  any  device  you  please,  and 
hake  them  immediately. 

PATTIES  FOR  FRIED  BREAD.  Cut 
the  crumb  of  a  loaf  of  bread  into  squai'e  or 
round  pieces  nearly  three  inches  high,  and 
cut  bits  the  same  width  for  tops ;  mark  them 
neatly  with  a  knife;  fry  the  bread  of  a  light 
brown  color  in  clarified  beef-dripping  or  fine 
lard. '  Scoop  out  the  inside  crumb,  take 
care  not  to  go  too  near  to  the  bottom ;  fill 
them  with  mince  meat,  prepared  as  for  pat- 
ties, widi  stewed  oysters,  or  with  sausage 
meat ;  put  on  tlie  tops,  and  serve  them  upon 
a  napkin. 

PATTIES,  LOBSTER.  See.  Lobsters. 

PEACHES,  CHARLOTTE  OF.  Take 
twenty  tolerably  ripe  peaches,  cut  them  in 
halves,  and  scald  diem  in  a  light  sirup ;  then 
drain  and  cut  each  h&lf  into  three  pieces 


(lengthwise)  of  equal  thickness ;  put  these 
into  a  pan  witli  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pow- 
der-sugar, and  half  the  quantity  of  warm 
butter;  ^  them  lightly,  and  having  prepar- 
ed your  Charlotte  in  the  usual  way,  pour  in 
the  peaches  and  finish  it  (see  Charlotte). 
When  in  tlie  dish  for  table,  cover  it  com- 
pletely with  the  sirup,  and  serve  immedi- 
ately. 

PEARS  BAKED.  (1)  Take  twelve  large 
baking  peai's ;  pare  and  cut  them  into  halves, 
leaving  the  stem  about  half  an  inch  long; 
take  out  the  core  with  the  point  of  a  knife, 
and  place  diem  close  together  in  a  block-tin 
saucepan,  the  inside  of  which  is  quite  bright, 
with  the  cover  to  fit  quite  close ;  put  to  them 
the  rind  of  a  lemon  cut  thin,  with  half  its 
juice,  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  twenty 
grains  of  allspice;  cover  them  with  spring- 
water,  and  allow  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  to 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  water:  cover  them  up 
close,  and  bake  them  for  six  hours  in  a  very 
slow  oven:  they  will  be  quite  tender,  and  of  a 
bright  color.  Obs, — Prepared  cochineal  is 
generally  used  for  coloring  the  pears;  but 
if  the  above  is  strictly  attended  to,  it  will  be 
found  to  answer  best. 

PEARS  BAKED.    (2)    Take   half  a 

dozen  fine  pears,  peel,  cut  them  in  halves, 
and  take  out  the  cores ;  put  tliem  into  a  pan 
with  a  little  red  wine,  a  few  cloves,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  some  water.  Set  them 
in  a  moderate  oven  till  tender,  then  put  thera 
on  a  slow  fire  to  stew  gently;  add  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  more  sugar  if  necessary. 
They  will  be  sufiiciently  red. 

PEARS  COMPOTE.  Choose  your 
fruit  carefully,  take  off"  the  tops,  and  trim 
the  tails,  wash  and  drain  tliem  well ;  then 
put  them  into  a  skillet  with  sugar,  cinna- 
mon, two  or  three  cloves,  a  little  red  wine, 
and  some  water.  Set  them  on  a  slow  fire, 
taking  care  to  skin  them.  When  sufficiently 
done,  they  will  look  wrinkled.  Peel  yoiu: 
fruit,  and  put  it  into  a  well  glazed  pipkin, 
with  a  glass  of  wine,  a  little  cinnamon, 
sugar  to  the  taste,  and  a  little  water ;  put  in 
also  a  pewter  spoon ;  cover  the  pij)kin  close, 
and  set  it  on  hot  ashes.  When  done,  the 
peai-s  will  be  of  a  fine  red  color. 

PEARS  TO  COMPOUND.  Take  a 
dozen  large  pears,  coddle  them ;  when  ten- 
der, take  them  out  and  lay  them  in  cold  wa- 
ter, pare  and  cut  them  in  halves;  take  out 
the  cores,  put  them  in  sinip  made  thus: — 
Two  pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar  to  three 
pints  of  water,  a  little  lemon-peel  pared  very 
thin,  boiled  in  them,  and  a  little  cochineal 
bruised  and  put  into  a  muslin  bag:  cover 
tliem,  boil  them  quick  till  they  are  tender 


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and  of  a  good  color ;  when  cold,  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons. 

PEARS  PRESERVED.  Take  care 
in  making  this  preserve  that  the  fruit  be  not 
too  ripe ;  they  are  in  a  fit  state  as  soon  as 
the  pips  are  black.  Set  the  pears  on  the 
fire  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  cover 
tliem;  take  them  off  when  quite  soft,  and 
tlu-ow  tliem  into  cold  water;  paie  them 
lightly,  cut  off  the  stalks,  prick  each  with  a 
piu  sufficiently  long  to  reach  the  core,  and 
put  them  again  into  cold  water,  with  a 
handful  of  alum ;  set  them  on  the  fire  to  boil 
until  the  pears  arc  tender,  then  take  tliem  out, 
and  put  them  into  cold  water  for  the  third 
time.  Clai'ify  and  boil  some  sugar,  put  some 
water  to  it,  and  when  it  boils,  add  the  pears, 
cover  the  pan,  and  give  the  whole  a  boil; 
skim  and  pour  it  into  an  earthen  pan  and 
leave  it.  The  next  day,  drain  the  sirup 
fi-om  the  pears,  add  a  little  more  clarified 
sugar  to  it,  and  boil  it  again;  pour  it  over 
the  fruit,  and  leave  it  as  before;  the  next 
and  two  successive  days,  pioceed  in  the  same 
way,  each  time  increasing  tlie  degree  of 
boiling,  then  add  the  pears,  give  the  pre- 
serve a  boil  (covered),  skim  and  pour  it  into 
a  pan,  and  place  it  in  a  stove  for  two  days, 
then  drain  tlie  fruit,  and  put  it  by  for  use. 

PEARS  STEWED.  (1)  Wash  and  prick 
some  large  stewing  pears,  and  set  them  on 
the  fire  in  a  large  stewing-pan  of  water  to 
scald;  when  scalded,  take  them  out,  and 
put  them  on  the  fire  in  a  pan  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  tliin  clarified  sugar  to  cover  them, 
a  stick  of  cinnamon,  a  little  mace,  and  two 
or  three  cloves;  let  them  stew  gently  till 
they  begin  to  soften  and  look  rather  red, 
then  put  in  a  bottle  of  Port  wine,  and  let 
them  continue  stewing  until  perfectly  done, 
and  look  very  rich  and  red ;  then  put  tliem 
in  a  basin  or  jar,  with  the  liquor  over  them ; 
they  will  be  all  the  better  for  keeping  four  or 
five  days. 

PEARS  STEWED.    (2)  Pare,  cut  into 

quarters,  and  take  out  die  core  of  six  good 
baking  pears ;  throw  them  as  they  are  done 
into  water.  To  a  pound  of  fruit  allow  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  three 
cloves;  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover 
them  with  cold  water,  keep  the  pan  closely 
covered,  and  stew  them  gently,  till  red  and 
tender;  add,  just  before  serving,  a  glass  of 
Port  wine.  They  may  be  eaten  hot  or  cold, 
with  cream,  after  dinner  or  at  supper. 

PEAS,  GREEN.     Young   green   peas, 

well  dressed,  are  among  the  most  delicious 

delicacies  of  the  vegetable  kingdom.     They 

must  be  young;   it  is  equally  indispensable 

12* 


that  they  be  fresh  gathered,  and  cooked  as 
soon  as  they  are  shelled  for  they  soon  lose 
both  their  color  and  sweetness.  After  being 
shelled,  wash  diem,  drain  them  in  a  cullen- 
der, put  diem  on  in  plenty  of  boiling  water, 
with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  of  pound- 
ed loaf  sugar ;  boil  diem  till  diey  become 
tender,  which,  if  young,  will  be  in  less  dian 
half  an  hour ;  if  old,  they  will  require  more 
tlian  an  hour;  drain  them  in  a  cullender, 
and  put  them  immediately  into  a  dish  with 
a  slice  of  fresh  butter  in  it;  some  people 
diink  it  an  improvement  to  boil  a  small  bunch 
of  mint  with  the  peas;  it  is  then  minced 
finely,  and  laid  in  small  heaps  at  the  end  or 
sides  of  die  dish.  If  peas  are  allowed  to 
stand  in  the  water  after  being  boiled  they 
lose  dieir  color. 

PEAS  FOR  A  SECOxND   COURSE. 

Put  a  quart  of  fine  green  peas,  together  with 
a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  into  as 
much  warm  water  as  will  cover  them,  in 
which  let  them  stand  for  eight  or  ten  min- 
utes. Strain  off  the  water,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  cover  it,  stir  them  frequently,  and 
when  a  little  tender,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
and  a  young  onion,  nearly  a  dessert-spoonful 
of  loaf-sugar,  and  an  ounce  of  butter  mixed 
with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour ;  keep  stirring 
them  now  and  then  till  the  peas  be  tender, 
and  add,  if  they  become  too  thick,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  hot  water.  Before  serving,  take 
out  the  onion  and  parsley. 

PEAS  PUDDING.  Take  a  pint  of 
good  split  peas,  and  having  washed,  soak 
them  well  in  warm  water;  then  tie  them  in 
a  cloth,  put  die  pudding  into  a  saucepan  of 
hot  water,  and  boil  it  until  quite  soft.  When 
done,  beat  it  up  with  a  little  butter  and  salt; 
serve  it  with  boiled  pork  or  beef. 

PEAS  POWDER.  Pound  together 
in  a  marble  moitar  half  an  ounce  each  of 
dried  mint  and  sage,  a  drachm  of  celeiy- 
seed,  and  a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  cayenne 
pepper ;  rub  them  dirough  a  fine  sieve.  This 
gives  a  verj'  savory  relish  to  peas  soup,  and 
to  water  gruel,  which,  by  its  help,  if  the 
eater  of  it  has  not  the  most  lively  imagina- 
tion, he  may  fancy  he  is  sipping  good  peas 
soup.  Obs.—'A  diachm  of  allspice,  or  black 
pepper,  may  be  pounded  with  the  above  as 
an  addition,  or  instead  of  the  cayenne. 

PEPPER  POT.  Take  as  much  spinach 
as  will  fill  a  good  sized  dish,  put  it  in  a 
saucepan  without  any  water,  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  let  it  boil ;  then  drain  off  all  the  li- 
quor, chop  the  spinach  very  fine,  and  return 
it  to  the  saucepan,  with  the  water  just  drain- 
ed from  it,  more  water,  onions,  three  or  four 


PER 


138 


PIC 


potatoes,  a  lettuce  or  head  of  endive  cut 
small,  the  bones  of  any  cold  roast  meat,  if 
you  have  them,  and  half  a  pound  of  bacon  ; 
put  the  whole  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  has 
boiled  for  about  an  hour,  put  in  a  few  suet 
dumplings ;  leave  it  twenty  or  thirty  min- 
utes longer;  season  it  well  with  cayenne,  and 
serve. 

PEPPER  POT  IN  A  TUREEN.  Stew 
gently  in  four  quarts  of  water,  till  reduced  to 
uiree,  three  pounds  of  l>eef,  half  a  pound  of 
lean  ham,  a  bunch  of  dried  thyme,  two  on- 
ions, two  large  potatoes  pared  and  sliced; 
then  strain  it  through  a  cullender,  and  add 
a  large  fowl,  cut  into  joints  and  skinned, 
half  a  pound  of  pickled  pork  sliced,  the 
meat  of  one  lobster  minced,  and  some  small 
suet  dumplings,  the  size  of  a  walnut.  When 
the  fowl  is  well  boiled,  add  half  a  peck  of 
spinach,  that  has  been  boiled  and  rubbed 
through  a  cullender;  season  with  salt  and 
cayenne.  It  is  very  good  witliout  tlie  lean 
ham  and  fowl. 

PERCH  BOILED.  Put  them  into  cold 
water,  and  let  them  boil  carefully ;  serve  widi 
melted  butter  and  soy. 

PERCH  BROILED.  Scrape,  gut,  and 
wash  them ;  dry  them  in  a  cloth,  dust  them 
with  flour,  and  broil  them.  Sauce ; — melted 
butter.  Or  tliey  may  be  broiled  without 
gutting  them.  They  may  also  be  stewed  as 
carp  are  done. 

PERCH  WITH  WINE.  Having  scal- 
ed and  taken  out  the  gills,  put  the  perch  into 
a  stewfjan,  with  equal  quantities  of  stock 
and  white  wine,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove  of  gar- 
lic, a  bunch  of  parsley  and  scallions,  two 
cloves,  and  some  salt.  When  done,  lake 
out  the  fish,  strain  ofi"  the  liquor,  the  dregs 
of  which  mix  with  some  butter  and  a  little 
flour;  beat  these  up,  set  fliem  on  the  fire, 
stirring  till  quite  done,  adding  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  a  ball  of  anchovy  butter.  Drain 
the  perch  well,  and  dish  them  with  the  above 


PERLINGO.  Take  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  sifted  flour,  and  having  placed  it  on  your 
slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it,  into 
which  put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar,  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  the  rind 
of  two  lemons  grated,  and  ten  eggs ;  knead 
all  tliese  ingredients  togetlier  well,  until  you 
have  a  pretty  firm  paste ;  if  it  should  Ije  too 
thin,  add  a  handful  more  flour.  Then  cut 
the  paste  into  email  pieces,  each  of  which 
roll  in  ihe  palms  of  your  hands,  till  they  are 
tlie  lenglli  and  thickness  of  your  finger ;  take 
a  round  stick  (about  half  the  diameter  of  your 


paste),  press  this  down  on  each  of  the 
pieces,  so  that  they  may  be  tlieir  original 
thickness  on  one  side,  and  tliin  on  the  other ; 
when  all  are  thus  pressed,  form  them  into 
little  crowns  (the  flat  side  inwards,  and  the 
thin  end  uppermost),  lay  them  on  white  pa- 
per, and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven ;  in 
the  meanwhile,  make  some  white  sugar  var- 
nish or  icing,  and  when  the  perlingoa  are 
sufficiently  done,  dip  them  carefully  in  the 
varnish,  one  by  one;  then  replace  them  in 
the  oven,  a  minute  or  two,  to  dry. 

PERRY.  Pen-y  is  a  pleasant  and  whole- 
some liquor,  made  from  the  juice  of  pears, 
by  means  of  fermentation,  somewhat  in  the 
same  manner  as  cider  is  made  from  apples. 

PETTITOES.  Boil  the  feet,  the  liver, 
and  tlie  heait,  of  a  sucking  pig,  in  a  little 
water,  very  gently,  then  split  the  feet,  and 
cut  the  meat  very  small,  and  simmer  it  with 
a  little  of  the  water  till  the  feet  are  perfectly 
tender;  thicken  with  a  bit  of  butter,  a  little 
flour,  a  spoonful  of  cream,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  salt ;  give  it  a  boil  up,  pour  it  over  a  few 
sippets  of  bread,  put  the  feet  on  the  mince. 

PICKLE  FOR  MEAT.  Six  poimds 
of  salt,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  four  ounces 
of  saltpetre,  boiled  with  four  g'allons  of  water, 
skimmed,  and  allowed  to  cool,  forms  a  very 
strong  pickle,  which  will  preserve  any  meat 
completely  immersed  in  it.  To  eflect  this, 
which  is  essential,  either  a  heavy  board  or  a 
flat  stone  must  be  laid  upon  the  meat.  The 
same  pickle  n)ay  be  used  repeatedly,  provided 
it  be  boiled  up  occasionally  with  additional 
salt  to  restore  its  strength,  diminished  by  the 
combination  of  part  of  the  salt  with  the 
meat,  and  by  the  dilution  of  the  pickle  by 
the  juices  of  the  meat  extracted.  By  boiling, 
the  albumen,  which  would  cause  the  pickle 
to  spoil,  is  coagulated,  and  rises  in  the  form 
of  scum,  wliicii  must  be  carefully  removed. 

An  H-bone,  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds, 
weight  will  require  about  ihree-f^uartos  of  a 
pound  of  salt,  and  an  ounce  of  moist  sugar, 
to  be  well  rubbed  into  it.  It  will  he  ready 
in  four  or  five  days,  if  turned  and  rubbed 
every  day. 

The  time  meat  requires  salting  depends 
upon  the  weight  of  it,  and  how  much  salt  is 
used:  and  if  it  be  rubbed  in  with  a  hea^y 
hand,  it  will  te  ready  much  sooner  than  if 
only  lightly  rubbed, 

N.  B.  Dry  the  salt,  and  rub  it  with  the 
sugar  in  a  mortar. 

Pork  requires  a  longer  time  to  cure  (in 

proportion  to  its  weight)  than  beef.     A  leg 

of  poik  should  1)6  in  salt  eight  or  ten  days ; 

turn  it  and  rub  it  every  day. 

I      Salt  meat  should  be  well  washed  before  it 


PIE 


139 


PIE 


is  "Ifciled,  especially  if  it  has  been  in  salt 
long,  tliat  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  is 
boiled,  may  not  be  too  salt  to  make  soup  of. 
If  it  has  been  in  salt  a  long  time,  and  you 
fear  that  it  will  be  too  salt,  wash  it  well  in 
cold  water,  and  soak  it  in  luke-warra  water 
for  a  couple  of  hours.  If  it  is  very  salt, 
lay  it  in  water  the  night  before  you  intend  to 
dress  it. 

PICKLE  FOR  TONGUES.  To  four 
gallons  of  water,  add  two  pounds  and  a 
half  of  treacle,  eight  pounds  of  salt,  two 
ounces  of  saltpetre ;  boil  it,  and  skim  it  un- 
til clear,  sprinkle  salt  over  the  tongue,  and 
let  it  stand  two  days,  wipe  it  clean  before 
you  put  it  into  the  pickle,  which  must  be  quite 
cold;  boil  the  pickle,  every  two  or  three 
months,  adding  two  or  three  handfuls  of  salt, 
skimming  it  well.  Half  the  quantity  is  suf- 
ficient for  two  tongues. 

PICKLE  FOR  BEEF.  Allow  to  four 
gallons  of  water  two  (rounds  of  brown  sugar 
and  six  puinds  of  salt,  boil  it  about  twenty 
minutes,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises;  the 
following  day  pour  it  over  tlie  meat  which 
has  been  packed  into  the  pickling-tub.  Boil 
it  every  two  months,  adding  three  ounces  of 
brown  sugar  and  half  a  pound  of  common 
salt.  By  this  means  it  will  keep  good  a 
year.  The  meat  must  be  sprinkled  with 
salt,  and  the  next  day  vyiped  dry,  before 
pouring  the  pickle  over  it,  with  which  it 
should  always  be  completely  covered.  With 
tlie  addition  of  two  ounces  of  saltpetre  and 
one  pound  of  salt,  this  pickle  answers  for 
pickled  pork,  hams,  and  tongues.  The 
tongues  sliould  be  rubbed  with  common  salt, 
to  cleanse  them,  and  afterwards  witli  a  little 
saltpetre,  and  allowed  to  lie  four  or  five  days 
before  they  are  put  into  the  pickle.  The 
meat  will  be  ready  for  use  in  eight  or  ten 
days,  and  will  keep  for  three  months. 

PICKLES.  Pickles  ought  to  be  stored 
in  a  dry  place  and  the  vessels  most  approv- 
ed of  for  keeping  them  in,  are  wide-moutli- 
ed  glass  bottles,  or  strong  stone-ware  jars, 
having  coiks  or  bungs,  which  must  \)e  fitted 
in  widi  linen,  and  covered  with  bladder  or 
leather ;  and  for  taking  the  pickles  out  and 
returning  them  to  the  jar,  a  small  wooden 
spoon  is  kept.  The  strongest  vinegar  is 
used  for  pickling;  that  of  cider  more  partic- 
ularly recommended,  but  sugar  vinegar  will 
generally  l)e  found  sufficiently  strong.  It  is 
essential  to  the  excellence  and  beauty  of 
pickles,  that  they  be  always  completely  cov- 
ered with  vinegiir. 

See  Hot  Pickles,  India  Pickles,  Onions, 
Cucumbers,  Sfc.  fyc. 

PIE,  ANGLO-FRANCAIS.     Take  a 


deep  dish,  line  the  edge  with  puflf  paste  like 
a  common  pie ;  stew  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  rice  with  some  sugar  until  quite  soft  and 
sweet ;  take  a  pound  of  ripe  juicy  cherries, 
which  pick  and  roll  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  powder-sugar,  and  lay  about  a  quarter  of 
them  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish ;  cover  these 
with  a  fourdi  part  of  the  rice,  then  the  cher- 
ries again,  and  so  on  till  your  materials  are 
used,  taking  care  to  keep  the  pie  high  in  the 
middle ;  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  pufF  paste, 
which  wash  over  lightly  with  some  white  of 
egg,  and  strew  a  little  powder-sugar  over; 
put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  and  a 
quarter;  then  take  it  out,  mask  the  crust 
with  apricot  marmalade,  and  a  few  maca- 
roons crushed.     Serve  it  eidier  hot  or  cold. 

PIE,  APPLE.  (1)  Take  eight  russe- 
tings,  or  lemon  pippin  apples;  pare,  core, 
and  cut  not  smaller  than  quarters;  place 
them  as  close  as  possible  together  into  a  pie- 
dish,  with  four  cloves;  rub  together  in  a 
mortar  some  lemon-peel,  \\'\i\\  four  ounces 
of  good  moist  sugai",  and,  if  agreeable,  add 
some  quince  jam ;  cover  it  with  puff  paste ; 
bake  it  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  (Genei-ally 
eaten  warm). 


PIE,  APPLE.  (2)  Pare,  quarter,  and 
core  die  apples;  cut  them  into  thin  bits. 
Put  into  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  a  table- 
spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  with  a  tea-spoon- 
fol  of  grated  ginger  and  lemon-peel,  then 
a  layer  of  apples,  and  so  on  alternately, 
till  the  dish  is  piled  as  full  as  it  will  hold. 
The  next  day  wet  die  rim  of  the  dish,  line 
it  with  puff  or  tart  paste,  brush  it  with  wa- 
ter, and  cover  it  with  paste;  press  die  edge 
all  round,  notch  it  witli  a  paste-cutter,  and 
make  a  small  hole  with  the  point  of  a  knife 
in  the  middle.  It  may  be  seasoned  wiUi 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  or  orange  mar- 
malade, pounded  cinnamon,  mace,  and 
cloves,  in  addition  to  the  ginger  and  lemon- 
peel. 

PIE,  APPLE  WITH  MUSCADEL 
RAISINS.  Peel  twenty  renneting  apples, 
cut  them  in  quarters,  and  then  cut  each  quar- 
ter into  five  or  six  pieces;  toss  them  in  a 
|Xin  with  four  ounces  of  sugar  in  powder, 
(over  which  should  be  grated  the  peel  of  a 
lemon),  four  ounces  of  butter  lukewarm, 
and  four  ounces  of  fine  muscadel  plums. 
Line  the  edge  of  a  deep  dish  with  a  good 
puff  paste,  then  put  in  your  fniit,  and  cover 
j  your  dish  with  a  good  puff  paste  a  cjuarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  glaze  with  the  white 
of  an  egg,  and  strew  sti<^tir  over  it.  Let  it 
bake  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve 
it  hot. 

PIE,  APRICOT.     Line  a  dish  widi  puff 


PIE 


140 


PIE 


\yaste,  and  then  put  in  eighteen  fine  apricots, 
(cut  in  halves  and  the  stones  taken  out,) 
with  four  ounces  of  sugar  in  powder,  and 
four  ounces  of  butter  lukewarm.  Then  lay 
on  the  upi^er  crust,  glaze  with  die  white  of 
egg,  and  strew  sifted  sugar  all  over.  Let  it 
Ixike  in  a  moderate  oveu  to  a  nice  light  col- 
or. Serve  it  hot.  When  you  wish  to  serve 
it  cold,  you  must  leave  out  the  butter. 

PIE,  BEEF  KIDNEY.  Cut  some  kid. 
neys  into  thin  slices,  and  place  them  in 
-the  bottom  of  yom*  pie-dish,  then  sweet 
herbs  chopped,  such  as  parsley,  thyme,  shal- 
lots, mushrooms,  |3epper,  and  salt;  con- 
tinue this  till  the  dish  is  full,  then  cover  the 
■whole  with  slices  of  bacon,  then  finish  your 
pie ;  bake  it  in  die  o\'en ;  when  done,  take 
out  the  bacon,  and  skim  off  the  fat;  make  a 
sauce  w  ith  a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  tolerable 
quantity  of  cullis,  and  reduce  it  to  the  con- 
sistence of  a  good  sauce,  then  squeeze  an 
orange  in  it.     Serve  your  pie  hot. 

PIE,  BEEF-STEAK.  Cut  the  steaks  off 
a  rump,  or  any  nice  piece  of  beef,  fat  and 
lean  together,  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  Ixjat 
them  a  little  vvidi  a  rolling-pin,  put  over 
tliein  some  f)epper,  salt,  and  parboiled  onion 
minced ;  roll  them  up,  and  pack  them  neatly 
into  the  disii,  or  lay  the  beef  in  slices;  add 
some  spoonfuls  of  gravy,  and  a  tea-spoonful 
of  vinegar.  Cover  the'  pie  with  a  puff  paste, 
and  bake  it  for  an  hour.  It  is  a  common 
but  mistaken  opinion,  that  it  is  necessary 
to  put  stock  or  water  into  meat  pies.  Beef, 
mutton,  veal,  and  pork,  if  not  previously 
dressed,  will  be  found  to  yield  a  sulliciency 
of  gravy,  and  the  pie  will  be  better  without 
any  additional  liquid.  N.  B. — Large  oys- 
ters, parboiled,  bearded,  and  laid  alternately 
with  the  steaks,  their  liquor  reduced  and 
substituted  instead  of  the  ketchup  and  wine, 
will  be  a  variety. 

PIE,  CHICKEN.  Parboil,  and  then 
cut  up  neatly  two  young  chickens ;  dry  them ; 
set  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes; 
liave  ready  some  veal  stuffing  or  forcemeat, 
lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  place  in 
the  chickens  upon  it,  and  with  it  some  pie- 
ces of  dressed  ham;  cover  it  with  paste. 
Bake  it  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours ;  when  sent  to  table,  add  some  good 
gravy,  well  seasoned,  and  not  too  thick. 
Duck  pie  is  made  in  like  manner,  only  sub- 
stituting  the  duck  stuffing  instead  of  the  veal, 
N.  B. — The  above  may  be  put  into  a  raised 
French  crust  and  baked;  when  done,  take 
off  the  top,  and  put  a  ragout  of  sweetbread 
to  the  chicken. 

PIE,  COD.  Lay  a  fine  jiiece  of  fresh 
cod  in  salt  for  several  hours,  then  wash  it 


well,  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg  and 
mace;  place  it  in  a  dish,  with  a  little  but- 
ter and  some  good  stock.  Lay  a  crust  over, 
and  bake  it ;  when  done,  pour  in  a  sauce, 
made  as  follows: — a  spoonful  of  stock,  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  flour  and  butter, 
grate  irt  a  Httle  nutmeg  and  lemon-peel,  and 
a  few  oysters,  boil  die  whole  once. 

PIE,  COLD  BEEF,  VEAL,  OR  MUT- 
TON.  Pound  in  a  mortar  some  Ixjiled  po- 
tatoes; boil  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  while  hot, 
mix  it  with  the  potatoes,  and  beat  them  till 
they  become  like  a  light  paste;  roll  it  out, 
cut  it  widi  a  flat  dish,  the  size  of  a  pie  dish, 
so  as  it  may  be  laid  from  oflf  it  upon  the 
pie ;  cut  the  meat  into  slices,  season  it  with 
pepper  and  salt,  put  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  wet 
the  edges  of  the  dish,  and  put  over  it  die 
paste,  and  bake  it  till  the  paste  be  sufficiently 
done. 

PIE,  DEVIZES.  Cut  into  xeiy  thin 
slices,  after  being  dressed,  cold  calf's  head, 
with  some  of  the  brains,  pickled  tongue, 
sweetbreads,  lamb,  veal,  a  few  slices  of  ba- 
con, and  hard-boiled  eggs;  put  them  in  lay- 
ers into  a  |)ie-dish,  vvidi  plenty  of  seasoning 
Ijctween  each,  of  cayenne,  white  pepper, 
allspice,  and  salt;  fill  up  the  dish  with  rich 
gravy ;  cover  it  with  a  flour  and  water  paste ; 
bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  and  when  perfectly 
cold,  take  off  the  crust,  and  turn  the  pie  out 
upon  a  dish;  garnish  it  with  parsley  and 
pickled  eggs  cut  into  slices. 

PIE,  DUCK.  Scald  a  couple  of  ducks, 
and  make  them  very  clean ;  cut  off  the  feet, 
pinions,  necks,  and  heads.  Take  out  the 
gizzards,  livers,  and  hearts;  pick  all  clean, 
and  scald  them.  Pick  out  the  fat  of  the  in- 
side, lay  a  good  pufl-paste  crust  all  over  the 
dish,  season  the  ducks  both  inside  and  out, 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  lay  diem  in  die 
dish,  with  the  giblets  at  each  end,  projierly 
seasoned.  Put  in  as  much  water  as  will 
nearly  fill  the  pie,  lay  on  the  ciust,  and  let  it 
be  well  baked. 

PIES,  EGG  MINCE.  Boil  six  eggs 
until  they  are  hard,  shred  them  small;  shred 
double  the  quantity  of  suet;  then  add  one 
jKiund  of  currants  picked  and  washed,  (if 
the  eggs  were  large  you  must  use  more  cur- 
rants) the  peel  of  one  lemon  shred  very  fine, 
and  the  juice,  six  spoonfuls  of  sweet  wine, 
mace,  nutmeg,  sugar,  a  very  small  quantity 
of  salt,  orange,  lemon,  and  citron  candied. 
Make  a  light  paste  for  them. 

PIE,  FRENCH.  Mince  some  cold  roast 
veal  togedier  with  a  little  ham,  season  it 
highly  with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  and  lemon- 
peel  ;  add   a   large  table-spoonful  of  mush- 


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141' 


PIE 


room  ketchup,  and  a  quarter  of  a  hundred 
of  oysters,  widi  their  liquor,  and  three  or 
foiir  table-spoonfuls  of  rich  gravy.  Line  a 
dish  witii  puft"  paste,  put  in  die  ingredients, 
cover  the  pie,  aiid  let  it  remain  in  die  oven 
long  enough  to  bake  the  paste. 

PIE,  GIBLET.  Stew  the  giblets  in  a 
little  water,  with  an  onion  stuck  widi  two  or 
three  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some 
salt,  and  whole  pepper;  cut  a  fowl  into 
joints,  skin  and  wash  it,  season  it  with  pep- 
per, salt,  and  lialf  an  onion  finely  minced. 
Take  out  die  onion,  herbs,  and  whole  pep- 
per; put  die  fowl,  giblets,  and  gravy  into  a 
dish,  add  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  two  ta- 
ble-sfK5onfuls  of  mushroom  ketchup;  cover 
the  dish  with  puff  paRte,  and  bake  it  for  an 
hour. 

PIE,  GOOSE.  Prepare  a  very  strong 
raised  crust,  and  make  the  sides  diick  and 
stiff.  Take  the  bones  out  of  a  goose,  tur- 
key, and  fowl,  cutting  each  down  the  back ; 
season  them  highly  with  pepper,  salt,  mace, 
cloves,  and  nutmeg,  all  finely  pounded  and 
well  mixed.  Lay  die  goose  upon  a  dish, 
with  the  breast  skin  next  die  dish ;  lay  in 
the  turkey,  put  some  slices  of  boiled  ham 
and  tongue,  and  then  the  fowl ;  cover  it  with 
little  biS  of  ham  or  bacon.  Put  it  all  into 
the  pie,  made  of  an  oval  form,  and  the  sides 
to  stand  an  inch  and  a  half  above  the  meat ; 
put  on  the  top,  and  make  a  hole  in  die  cen- 
tre of  it.  Brush  the  outside  of  die  pie  all 
over  with  the  beaten  whites  of  eggs,  and 
bind  it  round  with  diree  folds  of  buttered 
paper ;  paste  the  top  over  in  the  same  way, 
and  when  it  comes  out  of  the  oven,  take  off 
the  paper,  and  pour  in  at  the  top,  through  a 
fuimel,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  melted  butter. 

PIES,  LOBSTER.     See  Lobster. 

PIE,  ITALIAN.  Mix  together  some 
chopped  thyme,  parsley,  and  one  or  two  sage 
leaves,  some  salt,  white  and  cayenne  pep- 
per; lay  into  die  bottom  of  a  dish  some  thin 
slices  of  lean  veal,  sprinkle  them  with  the 
seasoning,  and  add  slices  of  ham,  and  a  few 
forcemeat  balls;  put  a  layer  of  seasoned 
veal,  and  of  ham  and  forcemeat  balls,  till  die 
dish  is  full,  and  then  add  the  yolks  of  five 
hard-boiled  eggs,  and  some  good  white  stock ; 
cover  the  dish  with  a  puff  paste,  and  bake 
it  for  an  hour.  Before  serving,  pour  in, 
thi-ougli  a  funnel  at  the  centre  of  the  crust, 
a  tea-cupful  of  rich  cream. 

PIES,  MAIGRE  FISH.  Salt-fish  pie. 
The  thickest  part  must  be  chosen,  and  put 
in  cold  water  to  soak  the  night  before  want- 
ed; then  boil  it  well,  take  it  up,  take  away 
tlie  bones  and  skin,  and  if  it  is  good  fish  it 


will  be  in  fine  layers ;  set  it  on  a  fish-drain- 
er to  get  cold:  in  the  meantime,  boil  four 
eggs  hard,  peel  and  slice  them  very  thin, 
the  same  quantity  of  onion  sliced  thin ;  line 
the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  fish  forcemeat, 
or  a  layer  of  potatoes  sliced  thin,  then  a 
layer  of  onions,  then  of  fish,  and  of  eggs,  and 
60  on  till  the  dish  is  full ;  season  each  layer 
with  a  little  pepper,  then  mix  a  tea-spoonful 
of  made  mustard,  the  same  of  essence  of  an- 
chovy, a  little  mushroom  ketchup,  in  a  gill 
of  water,  put  it  in  die  dish,  dien  put  on  the 
top  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter  broke  in  bits ; 
cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  one 
hour.  Fresh  cod  may  be  done  in  the  same 
way,  by  adding  a  little  salt.  All  fish  for 
making  pies,  whether  soles,  flounders,  her- 
rings, salmon,  lobster,  eels,  trout,  tench,  &c. 
should  be  dressed  first;  this  is  die  most 
economical  way  for  Cadiolic  families. 

PIES,  MINCE.  (1)  Carefully  stone  and 
cut,  but  not  too  small,  one  pound  and  a  half 
of  bloom  raisins ;  cut  small  half  a  pound  of 
orange-peel,  mince  finely  half  a  dozen  of 
middling-sized  good  apples,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  pounded  to  a  paste 
with  a  little  white  wine,  half  a  nutmeg  grat- 
ed, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  one 
head  of  clove,  and  a  little  cinnamon  pound- 
ed ;  one  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  beef  suet, 
finely  minced,  one  pound  of  good  brown  su- 
gar; mix  all  these  ingredients  extremely 
well,  and  add  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and 
one  glass  of  brandy.  Pack  it  closely  into 
small  stone  jars,  and  tie  them  over  with  pa- 
per. When  it  is  to  be  used,  add  a  little  more 
wine. 

PIES,  MINCE.  (2)  Cut  the  root  off  a 
neat's  tongue,  rub  the  tongue  well  with  salt, 
let  it  lie  four  days,  wash  it  perfecdy  clean, 
and  boil  it  till  it  becomes  tender ;  skin,  and 
when  cold,  chop  it  very  finely.  Mince  as 
small  as  possible  two  pounds  of  fresh  beef 
suet  from  the  sirloin,  stone  and  cut  small  two 
pounds  of  bloom  raisins,  clean  nicely  two 
pounds  of  currants,  pound  and  sift  half  an 
ounce  of  mace  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
cloves,  grate  a  large  nutmeg ;  mix  all  these 
jngredients  Uioroughly,  together  widi  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  good  brown  sugar. 
Pack  it  in  jars.  When  it  is  to  be  used,  al- 
low, for  the  quantity  sufficient  to  make 
twelve  small  mince  pies,  five  finely-minced 
apples,  die  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a  large 
lemon,  and  a  wine-glass  and  a  half  of  brandy ; 
put  into  each  a  few  bits  of  citron  and  pre- 
served orange-peel.  Three  or  four  whole 
green  lemons,  preserved  in  good  brown  su- 
gar, and  cut  into  diin  slices,  may  be  added 
to  the  mince  meat. 

PIES,  BRANDY,  MINCE.    Clean  a 


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142 


PIE 


pound  of  currants,  mince  a  pound  of  non- 
pareil apples,  and  one  of  fresh  beef  suet; 
pound  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar ;  weigh  each 
article  after  being  prepared ;  the  peel  of  two 
lemons  grated,  and  tlie  juice  of  one ;  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  citron,  the  same  of  orange- 
peel  minced.  Mix  all  these  ingredients 
well  with  a  quart  of  brandy. 

PIES,  LEMON  MINCE.  Weigh  one 
pound  of  fine  large  lemons,  cut  them  in  half, 
squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  pick  the  pulp  from 
tlie  skins;  boil  them  in  water  till  tender, 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar;  add  half  a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  same  of 
nicely  cleaned  currants,  and  of  fresh  beef 
suet  minced,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and 
citron  cut  small.  Mix  all  these  ingredients 
well,  and  fill  the  patty-pans  with  rather  more 
of  tlie  mince  than  is  usually  put. 

PIE,  MUTTON  OR  VEAL.  Cut  into 
chops,  aftd  trim  neatly,  and  cut  away  the 
greatest  part  of  the  fat  of  a  loin,  or  best  end 
of  a  neck  of  mutton  (the  former  the  best), 
season  them,  and  lay  them  in  a  pie-dish, 
witli  a  little  water  and  half  a  gill  of  mush- 
room ketchup  (chopped  onion  and  potatoes, 
if  approved) ;  cover  it  with  paste,  bake  it 
two  hours ;  when  done,  lift  up  the  crust  from 
tlie  dish  with  a  knife,  pour  out  all  the  gravy, 
let  it  stand,  and  skim  it  clean;  add,  if 
wanted,  some  more  seasoning;  make  it  boil, 
and  pour  it  into  the  pie.  Veal  pie  may  be 
made  of  tlie  brisket  part  of  the  breast;  but 
must  be  parboiled  first. 

PIE,  PIGEON  OR  LARK.  Truss 
half  a  dozen  fine  large  pigeons  as  for  stew- 
ing, season  tliem  with  pepper  and  salt ;  lay 
at  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  rump-steak  of 
about  a  pound  weight,  cut  into  pieces  and 
trimmed  neatly,  seasoned,  and  beat  out  with 
a  chopjMjr:  on  it  lay  the  pigeons,  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  boiled  hard,  and  a  gill  of  broth 
or  water,  and  over  these  a  layer  of  steaks ; 
wet  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  cover  it  over 
with  puff  paste,  or  tlie  paste  as  directed  for 
seasoned  pies;  wash  it  over  with  yolk  of 
egg,  and  ornament  it  witli  leaves  of  paste  and 
the  feet  of  the  pigeons ;  bake  it  an  hour  and 
a  half  in  a  moderate-heated  oven :  before  it 
is  sent  to  table  make  an  aperture  in  the  top, 
and  pour  in  some  good  gravy  quite  hot. 

PIE,  RAISED  PORK.  Make  a  rais- 
ed crust,  of  a  good  size,  about  four  inches 
high ;  take  the  rind  and  chine  bone  from  a 
loin  of  pork,  cut  it  into  chops,  beat  them 
with  a  chopper,  seiison  them  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  fill  your  pie ;  put  on  the  top 
and  close  it,  and  pinch  it  round  the  edge; 
rub  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  it  two 
hours  \vith  a  paper  over  it,  to  prevent  the 


crust  from  burning.  When  done,  pour  ra 
some  good  gravy,  with  a  little  ready-mixed 
mustard  (if  approved).  N.  B. — As  tlie 
above  is  generally  eaten  cold,  it  is  an  excel- 
lent repast  for  a  journey,  and  will  keep  for 
several  days. 

PIE,  POTATO.  Peel  and  slice  your 
potatoes  very  thin  into  a  pie-dish ;  between 
each  layer  of  potatoes  put  a  little  chopped 
onion  (three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  onion  is 
sufficient  for  a  pound  of  potatoes) ;  between 
each  layer  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt; 
put  in  a  little  water,  and  cut  about  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  little  bits,  and  lay 
them  on  the  top:  cover  it  close  with  puft' 
paste.  It  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  bake  it.  N.  B.  The  yolks  of  four  eggs 
(boiled  hard)  may  be  added;  and  when 
baked,  a  table-spoonful  of  good  mushroom 
ketchup  poured  in  through  a  funnel.  06s. — 
Cauliflowers  divided  into  mouthfuls,  and 
button  onions,  seasoned  with  cun-y-powder, 
&c.  make  a  favorite  vegetable  pie. 

PIES,  RAISED,  MUTTON  OR 
PORK.  Put  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour 
on  tlie  paste-board ;  and  put  on  the  fire,  in  a 
saucepan,  tlu'ee-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water, 
and  half  a  pound  of  good  lard ;  when  tlie 
water  boils,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of 
the  flour,  pour  in  the  water  and  lard  by  de- 
grees, gently  mixing  the  flour  Avith  it  with 
a  sjx)on ;  and  when  it  is  well  mixed,  then 
knead  it  with  your  hands  till  it  becomes  stifi": 
dredge  a  little  flour  to  prevent  its  sticking  to 
tlie  board,  or  you  cannot  make  it  look  smooth: 
do  not  roll  it  with  the  rolling-pin,  but  roll  it 
with  your  hands,  about  the  tliickness  of  a 
quart  pot ;  cut  it  into  six  pieces,  leaving  a 
little  for  the  covers;  put  one  hand  in  the 
middle,  and  keep  the  other  close  on  the  out- 
side till  you  have  worked  it  either  in  an  oval 
or  a  round  shape:  have  your  meat  ready  cut, 
and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt:  if  pork, 
cut  in  small  slices;  the  griskin  is  the  best 
for  pasties:  if  you  use  mutton,  cut  it  in  very 
neat  cutlets,  and  put  them  in  the  pies  as  you 
make  them;  roll  out  the  covers  with  the 
rolling-pin  just  the  size  of  the  pie,  wet  it 
round  the  edge,  put  it  on  the  pie,  and  press 
it  together  with  your  thumb  and  finger,  and 
then  cut  it  all  round  with  a  pair  of  scissors 
quite  even,  and  pinch  them  inside  and  out, 
and  bake  them  an  hour  and  a  half 

PIE,     RAISED     FRENCH.      Make 

about  two  pounds  of  flour  into  a  paste ;  knead 
it  well,  and  into  the  shape  of  a  ball ;  press 
your  diumb  into  the  centre,  and  work  it  by 
degrees  into  any  shape  (oval  or  round  is  the 
most  general),  till  about  five  inches  high; 
put  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  fill  it  with 
coarse  flour  or  bran;  roll  out  a  covering  for 


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143 


PIG 


it  about  the  same  thickness  as  the  sides ;  ce- 
ment its  sides  with  the  yolk  of  egg ;  cut  the 
edges  quite  even,  and  pinch  it  roiuid  with  die 
finger  and  thumb,  rub  yolk  of  egg  over  it  with 
a  paste-brush,  and  ornament  it  in  any  way 
fancy  may  direct,  with  the  same  kind  of 
paste.  Bake  it  of  a  fine  brown  color,  in  a 
slow  oven ;  and  when  done,  cut  out  the  top, 
remove  the  flour  or  bran,  brush  it  quite 
clean,  and  fill  it  up  with  a  fricassee  of  chick- 
en, rabbit,  or  any  other  entree  most  conve- 
nient.    Send  it  to  table  widi  a  napkin  under. 

PIE,  HAM  RAISED.  Soak  a  small 
ham  four  or  five  hours ;  wash  and  scrape  it 
well;  cut  off  the  knuckle,  and  boil  it  for 
half  an  hour ;  then  take  it  up  and  trim  it  very 
neatly ;  take  off  the  rind  and  put  it  into  an 
oval  stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  Madeira  or 
Sheri-y,  and  enough  veal  stock  to  cover  it. 
Let  it  stew  for  two  hours,  or  till  three  parts 
done;  take  it  out  and  set  it  in  a  cold 
place ;  then  raise  a  crust  as  in  the  foregoing 
receipt,  large  enough  to  receive  it ;  put  in 
tlie  ham,  and  round  it  tlie  veal  forcemeat; 
cover  and  ornament ;  it  will  take  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  bake  in  a  slow  oven: 
when  done,  take  off  the  cover,  glaze  the  top, 
and  pour  round  the  following  sauce,  viz.  tike 
the  liquor  the  ham  was  stewed  in;  skim  it 
free  from  fat ;  tliicken  with  a  little  flour  and 
butler  mixed  together ;  a  few  drops  of  brown- 
ing, and  some  cayenne  pepper. 

PIE,  SEA.  Skin  and  cut  into  joints  a 
large  fowl ;  wash  and  lay  it  into  cold  water 
for  an  hour;  cut  some  salt  beef  into  diin 
slices,  and  if  it  is  very  salt,  soak  it  a  short 
time  in  water;  make  a  paste  of  flour  and 
butter  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  pound  of 
butter  to  one  of  flour,  cut  it  into  round  pieces 
according  to  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  in  which  the  pie  is  to  be  stewed;  rub 
with  butter  the  bottom  of  a  round  iron  pot, 
and  lay  in  a  layer  of  the  beef,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  and  finely-minced  onion ;  tiien  put  a 
layer  of  the  paste,  and  then  the  fowl,  highly 
seasoned  with  pepjier,  onion,  and  a  little 
salt ;  add  another  layer  of  paste,  and  pour 
in  three  pints  of  cold  water ;  cover  the  pot 
closely,  and  let  ii  stew  gently  for  nearly  four 
hours,  taking  care  it  does  not  burn,  which,  j 
if  neglected,  it  is  apt  to  do.  It  is  served  in  i 
a  pudding  dish,  and  answers  well  for  a  family  j 
dinner. 

PIE,  SQUAB,  OR  DEVONSHIRE.  | 
Talie  a  few  good  baking-apples,  pare,  core,  j 
and  slice  them;  chop  some  onions  very  j 
small;  line  a  deep  dish  with  paste,  put  in  a  \ 
layer  of  the  apples,  strew  a  little  sugar,  and  | 
some  of  the  chopped  onions  over  them ;  sea-  ! 
son  them,  and  lay  lean  mutton  chops,  also 
seasoned,  more  onions,  tiien  the  apples,  &c. 


as  before,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  quite 
full ;  cover,  and  bake  the  pie. 

PIE,  SQUASH.  One  pint  of  squash, 
stewed  and  strained;  one  pint  of  milk,  and 
one  of  cream ;  ten  eggs ;  half  teacup  of  rose- 
water;  quarter  pound  of  sugar,  and  one 
grated  nutmeg.  Bake  in  plates  lined  with 
puff  paste. 

PIE,  SWEETBREAD.  Parboil  five 
or  six  sweetbreads;  cut  them  into  two  or 
three  pieces,  stew  them  ten  or  fifteen  minutes 
in  a  little  white  stock,  witli  some  chopped 
shallot,  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  some 
salt,  and  white  pepper,  and  a  good  many 
mushrooms.  Put  them  into  a  pie-dish,  with 
some  asparagus  tops,  forcemeat  balls,  and 
hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  and  slices  of  fat 
bacon  on  the  top ;  cover  it,  and  bake  it  till 
the  paste  be  done  enough ;  or  it  may  be  put 
into  a  vol-au-vent,  and  served  upon  a  nap- 
kin; or  baked  in  a  plate. 

PIE,  VEGETABLE.  Of  a  variety  of 
vegetables,  such  as  carrots,  turnips,  pota- 
toes, artichoke  bottoms,  cauliflower,  French 
beans,  peas,  and  small  button  onions,  equal 
quantities  of  each ;  half  boil  Uiem  in  good 
broth  for  a  short  time,  put  them  into  a  pie 
dish,  cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  in 
a  slow  oven ;  make  a  gravy  of  a  bit  of  veal, 
a  slice  of  ham,  pepper,  salt,  a  bay  leaf,  mush- 
rooms, shallots,  parsley,  and  an  onion ;  when 
it  has  boiled  tliick,  strain  the  liquor,  and  mix 
in  three  or  foiu"  table-spoonfuls  of  cream,  and 
pour  it  into  the  pie  before  being  served.  The 
ci-eam  may  be  omitted. 

PIG,  Is  in  prime  order  for  tlie  spit  when 
about  tliree  weeks  old. 

It  loses  part  of  its  goodness  eveiy  hour  af- 
ter it  is  killed ;  if  not  quite  fresh,  no  art  can 
make  tlie  crackling  crisp. 

To  be  in  perfection,  it  should  be  killed  in 
the  morning  to  be  eaten  at  dinner:  it  requires 
very  careful  roasting.  A  sucking-pig,  like 
a  young  child,  must  not  be  left  for  an  in- 
stant. 

Tlje  ends  must  have  much  more  fire  than 
the  middle:  for  this  purpose  is  conti-ived  an 
iron  to  hang  before  the  middle  part,  called  a 
pig-iron.  If  you  have  not  this,  use  a  com- 
mon flat  iron,  or  keep  the  fire  fiercest  at  the 
two  ends. 

For  the  stuffing,  take  of  the  crumb  of  a 
stale  loaf  about  five  ounces;  rub  it  tlirougha 
colander ;  mince  fine  a  handful  of  sage  (i.  e, 
about  two  ounces),  and  a  large  onion  (about 
an  ounce  and  a  half).  Mix  these  together 
with  an  egg,  some  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  bit 
of  butter  as  big  as  an  egg>  Fill  the  belly  of 
the  pig  with  this,  and  sew  it  up:  lay  it  to 
die  fire,  and  baste  it  widi  salad  oil  till  it  is 


PIG 


144 


PIG 


quite  done.  Do  not  leave  it  a  moment :  it 
requires  the  most  vigilant  attendance. 

Roast  it  at  a  clear,  brisk  fii-e  at  some  dis- 
tance. To  gain  the  praise  of  epicurean  pig- 
eaters,  the  crackling  must  be  nicely  crisped 
and  delicately  lightly  browned,  without  be- 
ing either  blistered  or  burnt. 

A  small,  three  weeks  old  pig  will  be  done 
enough  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Before  you  take  it  from  die  fire,  cut  off  the 
bead,  and  part  that  and  the  body  down  the 
middle:  chop  the  brains  very  fine,  with  some 
boiled  sage  leaves,  and  mix  them  wiUi  good 
veal  gravy,  or  beef  gravy,  or  what  runs  from 
the  pig  when  you  cut  its  head  off.  Send  up 
a  tureenful  of  gravy  besides.  Currant  sauce 
is  still  a  favorite  with  some  of  the  old  school. 

Lay  your  pig  back  to  back  in  the  di;;li, 
witli  one  half  of  the  head  on  each  side,  and 
the  ears  one  at  each  end,  which  you  must 
take  care  to  make  nice  and  crisp ;  or  you 
will  get  scolded,  and  deservedly,  as  the  silly 
fellow  was  who  bought  his  wife  a  pig  with 
only  one  ear. 

When  you  cut  off  the  pettitoes,  leave  the 
skin  long  round  the  ends  of  the  legs.  When 
you  first  lay  the  pig  before  the  fire,  rub  it  all 
over  widi  fresh  butter  or  salad  oil:  ten 
minutes  after,  and  the  skin  looks  diy; 
dredge  it  well  with  flour  all  over,  let  it  re- 
main on  an  hour,  then  nib  it  off  with  a  soft 
cloth. 

N.  B.  A  pig  is  a  very  troublesome  subject 
to  roast;  most  persons  have  Uiem  baked. 
Send  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  beg 
the  baker  to  Ijaste  it  well. 

PIG,  BAKED.  Lay  your  pig  in  a  dish, 
flour  it  well  all  over,  then  rub  jt  over  Avitli 
butter ;  butter  die  dish  you  lay  it  in,  and  put 
it  into  die  oven.  When  done  enough,  take 
it  out,  and  rub  it  over  with  a  butter  cloth ; 
then  put  it  again  into  the  oven  till  it  is  dry, 
then  take  it  out  and  lay  it  in  a  dish;  cut  it 
up,  take  a  little  veal  gravy,  and  take  off  the 
fat  in  the  dish  it  was  baked  in,  and  there 
will  be  some  good  gravy  at  the  bottom ;  put 
diat  to  die  veal  gravy,  with  a  little  bit  of  but- 
ter, rolled  in  flour ;  boil  it  up,  and  put  it  in 
a  dish  in  which  die  pig  has  been  laid,  and 
put  the  brains  widi  some  sage  into  die  belly. 
Some  persons  like  a  pig  to  be  brought  to 
table  whole,  in  which  case  you  are  only  to 
put  what  sauce  you  like  into  die  dish. 

PIG,  BARBICUED.  Scald,  &c.,  a  pig, 
of  about  nine  or  ten  weeks  old,  the  same  as 
for  roasting;  make  a  stuffing  with  a  few 
sage-leaves,  the  liver  of  die  pig,  and  two  an- 
chovies boned,  washed,  and  cut  extremely 
small;  put  diem  into  a  mortar,  widi  some 
bread-crumbs,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  half  a  pint 
of  Madeira  wine;  beat  them  to  a  paste,  and 


sew  it  up  m  the  pig ;  lay  it  at  a  good  di 
before  a  large  brisk  fire;  singe  it  well;  put 
two  bottles  of  Madeira  wloe  into  the  drip- 
ping-pan, and  keep  basting  it  all  the  time  it 
IS  roasting ;  when  half  done,  put  two  French 
rolls  into  the  dripjiingpan ;  and  if  diere  is  not 
wine  enough  in  the  drippingpan,  add  more: 
when  the  pig  is  nearly  done,  take  the  rolls 
and  sauce,  and  put  diem  into  a  saucepan, 
with  an  anchovy  cut  small,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  take  up  the 
pig,  send  it  to  table  with  an  apple  in  its 
mouth,  and  a  roll  on  each  side;  then  strain 
die  sauce  over  it. 

Some  barbicue  a  pig  of  six  or  seven  weeks 
old,  and  stick  it  all  over  with  blanched  al- 
monds, and  baste  it  in  the  same  manner  with 
Madeira  wine. 

PIG,  TO  COLLAR.  Cut  off  the  feet, 
head,  and  tail ;  bone  and  wash  it  well,  and 
dry  it  in  a  clodi.  Season  it  highly  with  a 
quantity  of  pepper  and  salt ;  roll  it  up  firmly, 
and  bind  it  with  a  piece  of  linen;  sew  it 
tightly.  Put  it  on  in  boiling  water,  with  die 
bones,  let  it  boil  for  an  hour,  then  put  it  un- 
der a  weight  to  press  till  it  be  cold,  and  take 
off  the  cloth. 

PIG'S  CHEEK,  TO  COLLAR.  Strew 
over  a  pig's  face,  and  a  neat's  or  pig's  tongue, 
a  little  salt  and  saltpetre ;  let  it  stand  eight 
or  nine  days,  then  boil  iheni  with  two  cow- 
heels,  till  all  be  sufficiently  tender  to  admit 
of  the  bones  being  taken  out ;  lay  upon  a 
dish  a  piece  of  strong  cloth,  put  the  cheek 
upon  it  with  the  rind  downwards ;  season  it 
highly  widi  pcpjier,  cloves,  and  a  little  salt ; 
add  the  tongue  and  cow-heels,  with  more 
seasoning;  roll  and  sew  it  up  finiily,  put  it 
into  a  jar  and  boil  it  for  two  hours,  dien 
press  it  widi  a  hanvy  weight,  and  when  cold 
take  off  the  clodi.  Ttie  cow-heel  may  be 
omitted,  and  both  cheeks  used. 

PIG'S  CHEEK,  TO  CURE.  Strew 
salt  over  it,  and  let  it  lie  two  or  three  days, 
then  pour  over  it  the  following  mixture  when 
it  is  cold;  half  a  pound  of  bay  salt,  li:df  an 
ounce  of  saltpetre,  a  cjuarter  of  a  pound  of 
coarse  brown  sugar,  one  handful  of  common 
salt,  and  a  penny-worth  of  cochineal,  boiled 
in  a  pint  of  strong  beer  or  porter ;  let  it  lie 
in  the  pickle  a  fortnight,  turning  it  daily, 
then  hang  it  to  smoke  for  a  week.  When 
to  be  dressed,  put  it  into  lukewarm  water  to 
soak  for  a  night,  and  in  diessing  it,  follow 
the  directions  given  for  boiling  hams. 

PIG'S  FEET  AND  EARS  PICKLED. 
Wash  die  feet  and  ears  veiy  clean,  and  be- 
tween every  foot  put  a  bay-leaf;  when  they 
are  well  soaked,  add  some  cloves,  mace,  co-' 
riander-seed,  and  ginger;    put  a  bottle  of 


PIG 


145 


PIG 


white  wine  to  three  pair  of  feet  and  ears, 
some  bay-leaves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs; 
let  them  boil  gently  till  tlieyare  tender,  tlien 
take  them  out  of  tlie  liquor,  lay  them  in  an 
eardien  pan ;  when  cold,  take  oft'  the  fat, 
and  stiaia  the  liquor  over  them.  They  eat 
well  cold,  or  warmed  in  the  jelly,  thickened 
with  butter  rolled  in  flour ;  or  take  die  feet  and 
ears  out  of  the  jelly,  dip  them  in  yolk  of  egg, 
and  dien  in  crumbs  of  bread,  and  broil  Uiem, 
or  fry  them  in  butter ;  lay  the  ears  in  the 
middle,  and  the  feet  round:   or  ragout  them. 

PIG'S  FEET  AND  EARS  SOUSED. 

Clean  Uiem,  and  boil  them  till  diey  are  ten- 
der; then  split  the  feet,  and  put  them  and 
tlie  ears  in  salt  and  water.  When  you  use 
them,  dry  them  well  in  a  cloth,  dip  them  in 
batter,  fry  them,  and  send  them  to  table  with 
melted  butter  in  a  boat.  They  may  be  eaten 
cold,  and  will  keep  a  considei'able  time. 

PIG'S  FEET,  TO  STEW.  Clean  them 
well,  and  boil  them  till  they  are  tender. 
Brown  some  butter  with  flour,  and  add  it  to 
a  quantity  of  gravy  or  water  sufficient  to 
stew  the  feet  in.  Season  with  a  minced 
onion,  three  sage  leaves,  salt,  and  black  pep- 
per. Cut  the  feet  in  two,  add  them,  and 
cover  the  pan  closely ;  let  them  stew  half  an 
hour.  A  little  beftjre  serving,  mix  in  half 
a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle  or  vinegar, 
and  pick  out  the  sage  leaves. 

PIG'S  HARSLET.  (1)  Parboil  the  liver 
and  lights,  slice  and  fry  them  along  widi  thin 
bits  of  bacon.     Garnish  with  fiied  parsley. 

PIG'S  HARSLET.  (2)  Wash  and  dry  j 
some  livers,  sweetbreads,  and  some  fat  and 
lean  pieces  of  pork,  beating  the  latter  with 
a  rolling-|)in  to  nrake  them  tender;  season 
with  pei)[)er,  salt,  and  sage,  and  a  little  onion 
shredded  fine;  when  mixed,  put  all  into  a 
cawl,  and  fasten  it  tight  with  a  needle  and 
thread,  and  roast  it  by  a  jack,  oi-  by  a  string. 
Or,  serve  in  slices,  with  parsley,  for  a  fry.  | 
Serve  with  a  sauce  of  Port  wine  and  water, 
and  mustard,  just  boiled  up,  and  put  it  into 
a  dish. 

PIG'S  HEAD  COLLARED.  Veiy 
nicely  scour  the  head  and  ears;  take  off  die 
hair  and  snout,  and  take  out  the  eyes  and 
brain ;  let  it  lay  for  one  night  in  water ;  then 
drain  it ;  salt  it  exti-emely  well,  with  com- 
mon salt  and  saltpetre,  and  let  it  lie  for  five 
days.  Boil  it  sufficiently  to  take  out  the 
bones ;  then  lay  it  on  a  dresser,  turning  tlie 
thick  end  of  one  side  of  the  head  towar<£  tlie 
thick  end  of  the  other,  to  make  the  roll  of  an 
equal  size;  sprinkle  it  well  -with  salt  and 
white  pepper,  and  roll  it  with  the  ears;  and, 
if  you  think  proper,  put  the  pig's  feet  round 
13 


the  outside,  when  boned,  or  the  thin  parts 
of  a  couple  of  cow-heels.  Put  it  into  a  cloth, 
bind  with  a  broad  tape,  and  boil  it  till  quite 
tender ;  dien  put  it  under  a  weight,  and  do 
not  take  oflthe  covering  until  it  is  quite  cold. 
If  you  wish  it  to  be  more  like  brawn,  salt  it 
longer,  and  let  die  proportion  of  saltpetre  be 
greater,  and  put  in  also  some  pieces  of  lean 
jwrk,  and  then  cover  it  widi  cow-heel,  to  ^ 
look  like  the  horn.  This  may  be  kept  either  * 
in  or  out  of  pickle  of  salt  and  water,  boiled 
with  vinegar.  If  likely  to  spoil,  slice  and  fry 
it,  either  with  or  widiout  batter. 

PIG'S  HEAD,  TO  POT.  Split  the 
head  of  a  small  pig,  take  out  the  brains,  cut 
oflf  the  ears,  and  let  it  lie  in  cold  water  for 
one  day,  then  boil  it  till  all  the  bones  come 
out ;  take  off  the  skin,  keeping  it  as  whole 
as  possible.  Chop  the  tongue  and  all  the 
meat  while  it  is  hot;  season  it  highly  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg ;  place  part  of  the 
skin  at  the  bottom  of  a  potting-pan  or  bowl, 
lay  in  the  chopped  meat,  and  put  the  rest  of 
the  skin  over  the  top;  press  it  down  hard, 
place  a  small  plate  upon  it,  put  on  Uiat  a 
heavy  weight,  which  must  not  be  taken  off 
till  it  be  perfectly  cold.  Boil  up  part  of  the 
liquor  widi  some  vinegar  and  salt,  and  keep 
the  head  in  this  pickle.  It  may  be  served 
for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  and  is  eaten  with 
vinegar  and  mustard. 

PIG'S  HEAD  AND  FEET,  SOUSED. 

Clean  them  extremely  well  and  boil  them; 
take  for  sauce  part  of  the  liquor,  and  add 
vinegar,  lime  or  lemon  juice,  salt,  cayenne, 
and  i)epper;  put  in,  either  cut  down  or 
whole,  the  head  and  feet ;  boil  all  together 
f  )r  an  hour,  and  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish. 
It  is  eaten  cold  with  mustard  and  vinegar. 

PIG'S    KIDNEYS,   AND    SKIRTS. 

Clean  and  wash  them  very  nicely,  cut  the 
kidneys  across,  and  die  skirts  into  small 
scjuare  bits;  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  beef 
(hipping,  brown  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  with  a  little  flour,  and  add  as  much 
boiling  water  as  may  be  required  of  gravy, 
and  an  onion  minced  small.  Add  the  meat, 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  mushroom  ketchup, 
and  let  It  stew  till  tender. 

PIGEONS.  Pigeons  should  be  extreme- 
ly fiesh ;  when  so,  and  in  good  order,  they 
are  plump  and  fat  at  the  vent,  and  their  feet 
pliable;  but  when  they  lue  stale,  the  vent  is 
open,  green,  and  withered.  Tame  pigeons 
ai-e  considered  prefemble  to  die  wild. 

PIGEONS    ^HOLE,    TO     BROIL. 

Clean  them  well,  cut  off  the  wings  and  neck, 
leaving  skin  enough  at  the  neck  to  tie ;  make 
a  forcemeat  with  bread  crumbs,  thiee  or  foxm 


PIG 


146 


PIK 


<rf  the  livers,  one  anchovy,  sonoe  parsley 
minced,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter ; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg, 
bind  it  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  l>eaten  up,  and 
put  into  each  pigeon  a  piece  the  size  of  a  large 
walnut;  tie  the  neck  and  rump,  rub  them 
with  butter,  and  dust  them  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  nutmeg  mixed ;  broil  them  over  a  slow 
fire ;  to  baste  them,  put  them  upon  a  plate, 
and  with  a  feather  bi-ush  them  over  witli  but- 
ter; broil  tliem  of  a  nice  brown  color;  sei"ve 
them  with  melted  butter  and  parsley,  or  a 
thickened  brown  gravy. 

PIGEON  PIE.  Qiop  some  parsley  and 
lemon  thyme,  witli  a  few  mushrooms;  stew 
these  in  a  little  butter,  into  which  put  fialf  a 
dozen  young  pigeons,  with  pepper  and  salt 
in  their  insides,  and  their  legs  turned  in; 
stew  them  for  a  few  minutes  and  turn  them ; 
when  they  begin  to  fry,  put  in  sufficient  con- 
somme to  cover  them,  in  which  let  them  stew 
till  they  are  well  done ;  take  them  from  the 
fii"e  to  cool ;  in  the  meantime  make  a  good 
puff  paste,  part  of  which  roll  out,  and  place 
round  the  edge  of  a  dish ;  lay  the  pigeons  in 
with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  boiled  hard,  and 
pour  over  them  half  of  the  litiuor  they  were 
stewed  in ;  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  then 
lay  on  the  top  paste,  trimming  it  neatly 
round,  the  same  as  jou  would  any  other  pie ; 
on  the  top  form  a  star  of  leaves,  with  a  hole 
in  the  centre ;  egg  it  lightly  over,  and  put  it 
to  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  taking  care  that 
it  has  not  too  much  color ;  when  done,  add 
to  the  liquor  that  remained  from  the  pigeons, 
a  little  butter  sauce,  make  it  very  hot,  and 
pour  it  on  the  pie.  Sene  it  hot,  either  for 
a  remove  or  side  dish. 

PIGEONS  WITH  RICE  and  Par- 
mesan Cheese.  Pick  and  wash  clean 
half  a  dozen  nice  pigeons,  cut  them  into  quar- 
ters ;  brown  some  butter  with  flour,  add  to 
it  a  pint  of  good  stock,  with  three  grated 
onions,  some  |)epper  and  salt,  stew  die  pig- 
eons in  this  till  tender,  take  them  out  and 
mix  in  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  boil  and  strain 
the  sauce  over  the  pigeons.  Boil  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  whole  rice  in  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  stock,  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter,  some  grated  nutmeg  and  salt ;  when 
it  is  tender,  add  two  handfuls  of  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese.  Put  more  than  half  of  the 
rice  ecjually  round  the  dish  in  which  the  pig- 
eons are  placed,  and  cover  them  with  what 
remains,  brush  it  over  with  a  well-beaten 
egg,  and  then  strew  it  thickly  with  more 
Pai-mesan ;  cover  a  flat  baking-tin  with  salt, 
place  the  dish  upon  this,  and  bake  it  for  nearly 
tliree-quarters  of  an  hour  ifi  a  slow  oven  ;  it 
should  be  of  a  fine  gold  color. 

PIGEONS,  TO  ROAST.    Pick,  clean. 


singe,  and  wash  them  well ;  truss  them  with 
three  feet  on,  and  put  into  then)  some  jiepper 
and  salt.  While  roasting,  baste  them  with 
butter.  A  little  before  serving,  dust  them 
witli  flour,  and  froth  them  with  butter. 
Roast  them  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  them 
with  parsley  and  butter  in  the  dish,  or  make 
a  gravy  of  the  giblets,  some  minced  parsley, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  Thicken 
witli  a  little  flour  and  butter;  pour  it  with 
tlie  giblets  into  tlie  dish,  and  tlien  put  in  the 
pigeons. 

PIGEONS,  STEW.  (1)  Clean  tliem nice- 
ly,  tru9B  them  as  for  boiling,  put  into  their  in- 
side some  pepper  and  salt ;  brown  in  a  sauce- 
pan three  ounces  of  butter  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour,  add  as  much  gravy  or  water  as  will 
nearly  cover  the  pigeons,  put  them  in  with 
the  livers,  gizzards,  and  pinions,  salt,  and 
some  miViced  parsley,  spinach  may  also  be 
added ;  let  them  stew  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour;  add,  a  few  minutes  before  serving, 
the  yolks  of  four  or  six  hard-boiled  eggs. 

PIGEONS,  STEW.  (2)  Wash  and  clean 
six  pigeons,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  put 
all  their  giblets  with  tliem  into  a  stewpan,  a 
piece  of  butter,  a  little  water,  a  bit  of  lemon- 
peel,  two  blades  of  mace,  some  chopped  pars- 
ley, salt,  and  pepper ;  cover  the  pan  closely, 
and  stew  them  till  tliey  be  tender;  thicken 
the  sauce  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up 
with  three  table-sjxjonfuls  of  cream  and  a  bit 
of  butter  dusted  with  flour ;  let  tliem  stew- 
ten  minutes  longer  before  serving. 

PIKE,  BAKED.  Scrape  the  scales  oflT 
a  large  pike,  take  out  the  gills,  and  clean  it, 
without  breaking  the  skin-;  stuft'  the  fish 
with  a  forcemeat  made  of  two  handfuls  of 
grated  bread,  one  of  finely-minced  suet,  some 
chopped  j)arsley,  and  a  little  fresh  butler, 
seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  grated 
lemon-peel  and  a  nutmeg,  pounded  ali  togeth- 
er in  a  mortar,  widi  two  whole  eggs.  Fasten 
die  tail  of  the  pike  into  its  mouth  with  a 
skewer,  then  dip  it,  first  into  a  well-beaten 
egg,  and  then  into  grated  biead,  which  repeat 
twice;  baste  it  over  with  butter,  and  bake 
it  in  an  oven. 

If  two  of  diem  are  to  be  served,  make  one 
of  them  of  a  green  color,  by  mixing  a  quan- 
tity of  finely-minced  parsley  with  die  grated 
bread.  When  the  fish  is  of  a  fine  brown 
color,  cover  it  with  paper  until  it  is  done. 
Serve  widi  a  Dutch  sauce  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

PIKE,  BOILED.  Wash  clean,  and 
takeout  the  gills;  stuff"  them  with  the  follow- 
ing forcemeat  :  equal  parts  of  chopped  oys- 
ters, grated  bread  crumbs,  beef  suet,  or  butter, 
two  anchovies,  a  little  onion,  pepper,  salt, 
nutmeg,  minced  parsley,  sweet  marjoram. 


POI 


147 


FOR 


thyme,  and  savory;  an  egg  to  bind  it.  Stuff 
the  insides,  and  sew  tliein  up ;  put  them  on 
in  boiling  salt-and- water,  with  a  glass  of  vin- 
egar, and  let  tliem  boil  half  an  hour.  Sauces ; 
—oyster,  and  melted  butter.  They  may 
also  be  broiled. 

PILLAU,  TO  MAKE.  Wash  very 
clean  two  pounds  of  rioe,  stew  it  till  per- 
fectly tender  with  a  little  water,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  some  salt,  whole  pepper, 
cloves  and  mace,  and  keep  the  stewpan 
closely  covered;  boil  two  fowls  and  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  bacon,  put  the  bacon  in 
the  middle,  and  the  fowls  on  each  side,  cov- 
er them  all  over  with  the  rice,  and  garnish 
with  hard-boiled  eggs  and  fried  whole 
onions. 

PLOVERS,  TO  CHOOSE.  Choose 
them  by  the  hardness  of  the  vent,  which 
shows  that  they  are  fat;  and  when  new, 
they  are  limber-footed.  In  other  respects, 
choose  them  by  tlie  same  marks  as  other 
fowls.  There  are  tliree  sorts;  the  gray, 
gi-een,  and  bastard  plover  or  lapwing. 

PLOVERS,  TO  DRESS.  Green  plov- 
ers should  be  dressed  the  same  as  wood- 
cocks, without  drawing,  and  served  on  a 
toast.  Gray  plovers  should  be  stewed. — 
Make  a  forcemeat  with  the  yolks  of  two 
hard  eggs  bruised,  some  maiTow  cut  fine, 
artichoke  bottoms  cut  small,  and  sweet 
herbs,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  nut- 
meg: stuff  the  birds,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  with  just  a  sufficient  quc^ntity  of 
good  gravy  to  cover  them,  one  glass  of 
white  wine,  and  a  blade  of  mace;  cover 
them  close,  and  let  them  stew  veiy  gently 
till  they  are  tender;  then  take  up  the  plov- 
ers, lay  them  in  a  dish,  keep  them  hot ;  put 
a  piece  of  butter  roiled  in  flour,  to  thicken 
the  sauce,  let  it  boil  till  smooth;  squeeze 
into  it  a  little  lemon;  skim  it,  and  pour  it 
over  the  plovers. 

POINT  DE  JOUR  FRITTERS.   Mix 

with  two  handfuls  of  flour  a  glass  of  sweet 
wine,  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy,  and  warm 
milk,  sufficient  to  make  it  into  a  paste ;  add 
the  well-beaten  whites  of  four  eggs,  a  little 
minced  citron,  candied  orange-peel  or  cur- 
rants; beat  it  well  together,  and  drop  it 
through  a  wide  tin  funnel,  into  boiling  lard. 
Serve  with  pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed  over 
them. 

POIVRADE.  Put  into  a  stewpan  a 
large  bunch  of  parsley-leaves,  some  scallions, 
two  bay-leaves,  a  little  thyme,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  fine  white  pepper,  a  glass  of 
vinegar,  and  a  small  quantity  of  butter ;  set 
the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  reduce  the  whole 


till  nearly  all  gone,  when  add  two  ladlefiils 
of  espagnole,  and  one  of  stock;  reduce 
these  again  to  the  proper  consistence,  and 
strain  it  for  use. 

PORK.  Dairy-fed  pork  is  the  best; 
the  flesh  should  look  white  and  smooth,  and 
tlie  fat  be  white  and  fine.  In  preparing  a 
hog  for  bacon  i  the  ribs  are  cut,  witli  a  very 
little  flesh  on  them,  from  the  side,  which 
has  the  fore  and  hind  leg  attached  to  it; 
the  hind  leg  is  then  called  a  gammon  of  ba- 
con, but  it  is  generally  reserved  for  a  ham. 
On  each  side  there  is  a  large  spare  rib, 
which  is  usually  divided  into  two,  one  call- 
ed the  sweet  bone,  tlie  other  the  blade  bone. 
There  are  also  griskins,  chine,  or  back 
bone. 

Hog's  lard  is  the  inner  fet  of  the  bacon 
hog. 

Porkers  are  not  so  old  as  hogs;  they 
make  excellent  pickled  pork,  but  are  cho- 
sen more  paiticularly  for  roasting. 

To  roast  a  leg,  a  small  onion  is  minced 
together  with  three  sage  leaves,  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  under  the 
skin  at  the  knuckle  bone;  the  skin  is  cut 
into  strips  nearly  ha!f  an  inch  apart,  and 
rubbed  over  witli  a  bit  of  butter.  If  weigh- 
ing seven  or  eight  pounds,  it  will  require 
nearly  three  hours  to  roast. 

A  spare  rib  should  be"  roasted,  is  basted 
with  butter,  and  has  sage  leaves  dried,  rub- 
bed to  a  powder,  and  mixed  with  salt  and 
pepper,  sprinkled  over  it. 

Botli  a  loin  and  neck  are  jointed,  the 
skin  scored  in  narrow  stt-ips,  and  rubbed 
with  butter.  If  weighing  six  or  seven 
pounds,  it  will  require  ratlier  more  than  two 
hours  to  roast. 

A  griskin  may  be  either  broiled  or  roast- 
ed. 

A  chine  is  stuffed  here  and  there  with 
bread  crumbs,  mixed  with  a  little  butter, 
and  seasoned  with  some  finely  shred  sage, 
parsley,  and  thyme,  some  pepper  and  salt. 
The  skin  is  cut  into  strips  and  rubbed  with 
butter;  it  is  then  roasted,  and  served  with 
apple  sauce,  as  aie  also  tlie  preceding 
roasts. 

A  porker's  head  is  stuffed  like  a  sucking 
pig,  sewed  firmly,  and  hung  on  a  string  to 
roast. 

The  shoulder  may  be  roasted,  but,  being 
very  fat,  it  is  generally  preferred  pickled. 

The  breast  may  be  made  into  a  pie,  or 
broiled. 

To  boil  hams,  they  should  be  put  on  in 
water,  the  chill  taken  off,  and  simmered  for 
four  or  five  hours,  taking  care  not  to  allow 
them  to  boil. 

The  prime  season  for  pork  is  from  No- 
vember to  March. 

Take  particular  care  it  be  done  enough; 


POR 


148 


POR 


oilier  meats  under-done  are  unpleasant,  but 
pork  is  absolutely  uneatable ;  the  sight  of  it 
is  enough  to  appal  the  sharpest  appetite,  if 
its  gravy  has  the  least  tint  of  redness. 

Be  careful  of  the  crackling;  if  this  be 
not  crisp,  or  if  it  be  burned,  you  will  be 
scolded.  Pickled  Pork,  takes  morc  time 
than  any  other  meat.  If  you  buy  yoiu-  pork 
ready  salted,  ask  how  many  days  it  has 
been  in  salt;  if  many,  it  will  require  to  be 
soaked  in  water  for  six  hours  before  you 
dress  it.  When  you  cook  it,  wash  and 
scrape  it  as  clean  as  possible;  when  deli- 
cately dressed,  it  is  a  favorite  dish  with  al- 
most everybody.  Take  care  it  does  not 
boil  fest;  if  it  does,  the  knuckle  will  break 
to  pieces,  before  the  tliick  part  of  the  meat 
is  warm  through;  a  leg  of  seven  pounds 
takes  three  hours  and  a  half  very  slow  sim- 
mering. Skim  your  pot  very  carefully,  and 
when  you  take  the  meat  out  of  the  boiler, 
scrape  it  clean. 

A  leg  of  nice  pork,  nicely  salted,  and 
nicely  boiled,  is  as  fine  a  cold  relish  as  cold 
ham ;  especially  if,  instead  of  cutting  into 
the  middle  when  hot,  and  so  lettmg  out 
its  juices,  you  cut  it  at  the  knuckle:  slices 
broiled  are  a  good  luncheon,  or  supper. 

Mem. — Some  persons  who  sell  pork  ready 
sailed  have  a  silly  trick  of  cutting  the  knuc- 
kle in  two;  we  suppose  that  this  is  done  to 
save  their  salt ;  but  it  lets  all  the  gravy  out 
of  the  leg;  and  unless  you  Iwil  your  pork 
merely  for  the  sake  of  the  pot-liquor,  which 
in  this  case  receives  all  the  goodness  and 
strengtli  of  the  meat,  friendly  reader,  your 
oracle  cautions  you  to  buy  no  leg  of  pork 
which  is  slit  at  the  knuckle. 

If  pork  is  not  done  enough,  nothing  is  more 
disagreeable ;  if  too  much,  it  not  only  loses 
its  color  and  flavor,  but  its  substance  be- 
comes soft  like  a  jelly. 

It  must  never  appear  at  table  without  pars- 
nips; they  are  an  excellent  vegetable,  and 
deserve  to  be  much  more  popular ;  or  carrots, 
turnips,  and  greens,  or  mashed  potatoes,  &c. 

Obs. — Remember  not  to  forget  the  mus- 
tard-pot. 

PORK,  LEG,  Of  eight  pounds,  will  re- 
quire about  tliree  hours :  score  the  skins  across 
in  narrow  stripes  (some  score  it  in  dia- 
monds), about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart; 
stuff  die  knuckle  with  sage  and  onion,  minced 
fine,  and  a  little  grated  bread,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg. 

Do  not  put  it  too  near  the  fire  :  rub  a  little 
sweet  oil  on  the  skin  with  a  paste-brush,  or 
a  goose-feather:  this  makes  the  crackling 
crbper  and  browner  than  basting  it  with 
dripping ;  and  it  will  be  a  better  color  than 
all  the  art  of  cookery  can  make  it  in  any 
other  way ;  and  this  is  the  best  way  of  pre- 


venting tlie  skin  firom  blistering,  which  W^ 
principally  occasioned  by  its  being  put  te#'^ 
near  the  fire.  ^^ 

PORK  Spare  Rib,  Usually  weighs  about 
eight  or  nine  pounds,  and  will  take  from  two 
to  three  hours  to  roast  it  thoroughly ;  not  ex- 
actly according  to  its  weight,  but  the  thick- 
ness of  the  meat  upon  it  which  varies  very 
much.  Lay  the  thick  end  nearest  to  the 
fire, 

A  proper  bald  spare  rib  of  eight  pounds 
weight  (so  called  because  almost  all  the  meal 
is  pared  off),  with  a  steady  fire,  will  be  done 
in  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  There  is  so  little 
meat  on  a  bald  spare  rib,  that  if  you  have  a 
large,  fierce  fire,  it  will  be  burned  before  it 
is  warm  through.  Joint  it  nicely,  and  crack 
tlie  ribs  across  as  you  do  ribs  of  lamb. 

When  you  put  it  down  to  roast,  dust  on 
some  flour,  and  baste  it  with  a  little  butter ; 
dry  a  dozeii  sage  leaves,  and  rub  them  through 
a  hair-sieve,  and  put  them  into  the  top  of  a 
dredging-box ;  and  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
before  the  meat  is  done,  baste  it  with  button  j 
dust  with  the  pulverized  sage.  - 

Obs. — Make  it  a  general  rale  never  to 
pour  gi'avy  over  any  thing  that  is  roasted ; 
by  so  doing,  the  dredging,  &c.  is  washed  off, 
and  it  eats  insipid. 

Some  people  carve  a  spare  rib  by  cutting 
out  in  slices  the  thick  part  at  the  bottom  of 
the  bones.  When  this  meat  is  cut  away, 
the  bones  may  be  easily  separated,  and  are 
esteemed  very  sweet  picking. 

Apple  sauce,  mashed  potatoes,  and  good 
mustard  are  indispensable. 

PORK  CHEESE.  Choose  the  head  of 
a  small  pig  which  may  weigh  about  twelve 
pounds  the  quarter.  Sprinkle  over  it  and 
the  tongues  of  four  pigs,  a  little  common  salt 
and  a  very  little  saltjietre.  Let  ihem  lie 
four  days,  wash  them,  and  tie  them  in  a  clean 
cloth ;  boil  them  until  the  bones  will  come 
easily  out  of  the  head,  take  oft'  the  skin  as 
whole  as  possible,  place  a  bowl  in  hot  water 
and  put  in  the  head,  cutting  it  into  small 
pieces.  In  the  bottom  of  a  round  tin,  shaj^ed 
like  a  small  cheese,  lay  two  strips  of  cloth 
across  each  other,  they  must  be  long  enough 
to  fold  over  the  top  when  the  shape  is  full, 
place  the  skin  round  the  tin,  and  nearly  lia  11^ 
fill  it  with  the  meat,  which  has  been  highly 
seasoned  with  pepper,  cayenne  and  salt ;  put 
in  some  tongue  cut  into  slices,  then  the  rest  of 
the  meat  and  the  remainder  of  the  tongue, 
draw  the  clotli  tightly  across  die  top ;  put  on 
it  a  lx>ard  or  a  plate  that  will  fit  into  the  shape, 
and  place  on  it  a  heavy  weight,  which  must 
not  Ije  taken  off  till  it  be  quite  cold.  It  is 
eaten  witli  vinegar  and  mustai'd,  and  served 
for  luncheon  or  supper. 


POT 


149 


POT 


POTATOES.  The  vegetable  kingdom 
affords  no  food  more  wholesome,  more  easily 
procured,  easily  prepared,  or  less  expensive, 
than  die  potato  :  yet,  although  this  most  useful 
vegetable  is  dressed  almost  every  day,  in 
almost  every  family,  for  one  plate  of  potatoes 
that  comes  to  table  as  it  should  come,  ten  are 
spoiled. 

Wash  them,  but  do  not  pare  or  cut  them, 
unless  they  are  very  large.  Fill  a  saucepan 
half  full  of  potatoes  of  equal  size  (or  make 
them  so  by  dividing  the  larger  ones),  put  to 
them  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  them 
about  an  inch:  diey  are  sooner  boiled,  and 
more  savory,  than  when  drowned  in  water. 
Most  boiled  things  are  spoiled  by  having  too 
little  water,  but  potatoes  are  often  spoiled  by 
too  much  :  they  must  merely  be  covered,  and 
a  little  allowed  for  waste  in  boiling,  so  that 
tliey  may  Ije  just  covered  at  the  finish. 

Set  them  on  a  moderate  fire  till  ^ey  lx)il ; 
then  take  them  off,  and  put  them  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  to  simmer  slowly  till  they  are  soft 
enough  to  admit  a  fork  (place  no  dependence 
on  the  usual  test  of  their  skins'  cracking, 
which,  if  they  are  boiled  fast,  will  happen  to 
some  potatoes  when  they  are  not  half  done,  and 
the  insides  quite  hard) .  I'hen  pour  the  wa- 
ter off  (if  you  let  tlie  potatoes  remain  in  the 
water  a  moment  after  they  are  done  enough, 
they  will  become  waxy  and  watery),  uncover 
the  saucepan,  and  set  it  at  such  a  distance 
from  the  fire  as  will  secure  it  from  burning; 
their  superfluous  moisture  wjll  evaporate,  and 
the  potatoes  will  be  }ierfectly  dry  and  mealy. 

You  may  afterward  place  a  napkin,  folded 
up  to  the  size  of  the  saucepan's  diameter, 
over  the  potatoes,  to  keep  them  hot  and 
mealy  till  wanted. 

This  method  of  managing  potatoes  is  in 
every  respect  equal  to  steaming  tliem ;  and 
they  are  dressed  in  half  the  time. 

There  is  such  an  infinite  variety  of  sorts 
and  sizes  of  potatoes,  that  it  is  impossible  to 
say  how  long  they  will  take  doing:  thel)est 
way  is  to  try  them  with  a  fork.  Moderate- 
sized  potatoes  will  generally  be  done  enough 
in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

POTATOES,  NEW.  The  best  way  to 
clean  new  potatoes  is  to  rub  them  with  a 
coarse  cloth  or  flannel,  or  scrubbing-brush. 

New  potatoes  are  poor,  watery,  and  insip- 
id, till  they  are  full  two  inches  in  diameter: 
they  are  not  worth  die  trouble  of  boiling  be- 
fore midsummer  day. 

Obs.  Some  cooks  prepare  sauces  to  pour 
over  potatoes,  made  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper,  or  gravy,  or  melted  butter  and  ketch- 
up; or  stew  the  potatoes  in  ale,  or  water 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ;  or  bake  them 
with  herrings  or  sprats,  mixed  with  layers 
of  potatoes,  seasoned  with  pepf)er,  salt,  sweet 
herbs,  vinegar,  and  water ;  or  cut  mutton  or 
13* 


beef  into  slices,  and  lay  them  in  a  stewpan, 
and  on  them  potatoes  and  spices,  then  anoth- 
er layer  of  tlie  meat  alternately,  pouring  in 
a  little  water,  covering  it  up  very  close,  and 
boiling  it  slowly. 

POTATO  BALLS.  Mix  mashed  pota- 
toes with  the  yolk  of  an  egg;  roll  them  into 
balls;  flour  them,  or  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them ;  and  fry  Uiem  in  clean  drippings,  or 
brown  tiiem  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

POTATO   BALLS    RAGOUT,     Are 

made  by  bidding  to  a  pound  of  potatoes  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  ham,  or  some 
sweet  herbs,  or  chopped  parsley,  an  onion  or 
eschalot,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  or  other  spice,  with  the  yolk  of  a 
couple  of  eggs  :  they  are  then  to  be  dressed 
as  Potato  Balls. 

Obs.  An  agreeable  vegetable  relish,  and 
a  good  supper-dish. 

POTATOES  BOILED,   TO  BROIL. 

After  boiling  potatoes  not  quite  sufficiently  to 
send  to  table,  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a 
clear  fire,  and  turn  them  frequently  till  they  are 
of  a  nice  brown  color  all  over ;  serve  them 
hot ;  take  cai'e  they  do  not  become  too  hai'd, 
as  that  spoils  the  flavor. 

POTATOES,  CASSEROLE.  Boil  and 
peel  some  good  mealy  potatoes,  pound  them, 
and  mix  with  them  some  butter,  cream,  and 
a  little  salt,  put  tliem  about  an  inch  and  a 
half  high  upon  a  flat  dish,  and  leave  an  open- 
ing in  the  centre ;  bake  them  of  a  light  brown 
color,  and  take  out  as  much  fiom  the  centi'e 
as  will  admit  of  a  ragout,  fricassee,  or  mac- 
aroni, being  put  into  it.  . 

POTATOES,  COLCANNON.      Boil 

potatoes  and  greens,  or  spinage,  separately; 
mash  the  potatoes ;  squeeze  the  greens  di*y ; 
chop  them  quite  fine  and  mix  them  with  the 
potatoes,  with  a  little  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt ;  put  it  into  a  mould,  buttering  it  well 
first;  let  it  stand  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  min- 


POTATO      CROQUETTES.     When 

boiled  and  peeled,  allow  four  large  mealy 
potatoes,  half  their  weight  of  butter  and  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  two  eggs  beaten,  half 
the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  salt ; 
pound  the  |)otatoes  in  a  mortar  with  tlie 
other  ingredients;  beat  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs;  roll  up  the  croquettes ;  dip  them  into 
the  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  them  in  sifted  bread 
crumbs;  in  an  hour,  roll  them  again  as  be- 
fore, and  fry  them  in  butter;  put  them  upon 
the  back  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire  to  drain. 

POTATO    EGGS.       Mash    perfectly 


POT 


150 


POT 


smooth  six  or  seven  boiled  potatoes,  add  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  the  bea- 
ten yolk  of  an  egg,  half  an  onion  pounded, 
a  little  boiled  minced  parsley,  some  j)epjx;r 
and  salt;  make  it  into  the  form  of  small 
eggs  or  pears,  roll  them  into  a  well-beaten 
egg,  and  then  into  grated  bread  seasoned, 
with  pepper  and  sail ;  fry  them  in  plenty  of 
lard  or  dripping  till  they  are  of  a  fine  brown 
color,  lay  tliem  before  the  fire  to  drain; 
serve  them  with  a  fringe  of  fi-ied  parsley. 

POTATOES  FRIED  IN  SLICES 
OR  RIBBONS.  Peel  large  potatoes ;  slice 
them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  or 
cut  them  in  shavings  round  and  round,  as 
you  would  peel  a  lemon ;  di-y  them  well  in  a 
clean  cloth,  and  fry  them  in  lard  or  dripping. 
Take  car^  that  your  fat  and  frying-pan  are 
quite  clean;  put  it  on  a  quick  fire,  watch  it, 
and  as  soon  as  the  lard  boils,  and  is  still, 
put  in  the  slices  of  potato,  and  keep  moving 
them  till  they  are  crisp.  Take  them  up, 
and  lay  them  to  di-ain  on  a  sieve  :  send  them 
up  with  a  very  little  salt  sprinkled  over  them. 

POTATOES  FRIED  WHOLE.  When 
nearly  boiled  enough,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  bit  of  butter,  or  some  nice  clean 
beef-drippings ;  shake  them  about  often  (for 
fear  of  burning  them),  till  they  are  brown 
and  crisp ;  drain  them  from  the  fat.  Obs. — 
It  will  be  an  elegant  in>iirovement  previous 
to  frying  or  broiling  the  potatoes,  to  flour 
them  and  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  then  roll  thfem  in  fine-sifted  bread- 
crumbs ;  they  will  then  deserve  to  be  called 

POTATOES  FULL  DRESSED. 

POTATOES  RAW  OR  COLD,  TO 
FRY.  Wash,  peel,  and  put  them  into  cold 
water  for  one  or  two  hours,  cut  them  into 
slices  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  fry  them 
a  light  brown  in  boiling  clarified  beef  suet. 
Cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut  in  slices,  may  be 
done  in  the  same  manner. 

POTATO  FRITTERS.  Peel,  and 
pound  in  a  mortar,  six  mealy  potatoes,  with 
a  little  salt,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  some 
pounded  sugar,  cinnamon,  and  an  ounce  of 
butter;  roll  it  out  with  a  little  flour,  cut 
them  the  size  of  a  wine  glass,  and  fry  them 
in  boiling  clarified  dripping.  Serve  them 
with  sifted  loaf  sugar  over  them. 

POTATOES,  MASHED.  (1)  When 
your  potatoes  are  thoroughly  boiled,  drain 
them  quite  dry,  pick  out  every  speck,  &c.  and 
while  hot,  rub  them  through  a  colander  into 
a  clean  stewpan.  To  a  pound  of  potatoes 
put  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  milk:  do  not  make  them  too 
moist;  mix   them    w<  II   together.     Obs. — 


When  die  potatoes  are  getting  old  and 
specky,  and  in  frosty  weather,  this  is  the 
best  way  of  dressing  them.  You  may  put 
them  into  shapes  or  small  tea-cups;  egg 
them  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  brown  them  very 
slightly  before  a  slow  fire. 

POTATOES,  MASHED.  (2)  Boil  the 
potatoes,  peel  and  mash  them  very  smoothly ; 
put  for  a  large  dish  four  ounces  of  butter, 
two  eggs  beat  up  in  half  a  pint  of  good  milk, 
and  some  salt;  mix  diem  well  togeUier, 
heap  it  upon  a  dish  with  a  table-spoon  to 
give  it  a  rough  and  rocky  appearance,  or 
put  it  on  a  dish  and  score  it  with  a  knife, 
dip  a  brush  or  feather  into  melted  butter, 
and  bnish  over  the  top  lightly ;  put  it  into 
a  Dutch  oven,  and  let  it  brown  gradually 
for  an  hour  or  more.  To  mash  potatoes  in 
a  plain  way,  mix  with  them  two  ounces  of 
butter,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  little  salt. 
When  mashed  potatoes  are  not  browned,  it 
is  a  great  improvement  to  add  pepper,  salt, 
and  one  onion  minced  as  finely  as  possible; 
heat  the  potatoes  in  a  saucepan,  and  serve 
them  hot. 

POTATOES,  ROASTED.  Wash  and 
dry  your  potatoes,  (all  of  a  size),  and  put 
them  in  a  tin  Dutch  oven,  or  cheese-toaster: 
take  care  not  to  put  them  too  near  the  fire, 
or  they  will  get  burned  on  the  outside  before 
they  are  warmed  through.  Laige  potatoes 
will  require  two  hours  to  roast  them. 
N.  B.  To  save  time  and  trouble,  some 
cooks  half  boil  them  first.  This  is  one  of 
the  best  opportunities  the  baker  has  to 
rival  the  cook. 

POTATOES  ROASTED  UNDER 
MEAT.  Half  boil  large  potatoes,  drain  the 
water  from  them,  and  put  them  into  an  earth- 
en dish,  or  small  tin  pan,  under  meat  that  is 
roasting,  and  baste  them  witii  some  of  the 
dripping:  when  they  are  browned  on  one 
side,  turn  them  and  brown  the  other ;  send 
them  up  round  the  meat,  or  in  a  small  dish. 

POTATOES  SCALLOPED.  Mash  po- 
tatoes as  directed,  then  butter  some  nice 
clean  scolloi)-shells,  patty-pans,  or  tea-cups 
or  saucers;  put  in  your  potatoes;  make 
tliem  smooth  at  the  top;  cross  a  knife  over 
them;  strew  a  few  fine  bread-cruml>s  on 
them:  sprinkle  them  with  a  paste-brush 
with  a  few  drops  of  melted  butter,  and  then 
set  them  in  a  Dutch  oven ;  when  they  are 
browned  on  the  top,  take  them  carefully  out 
of  the  shells,  and  brown  the  otlier  side. 

POTATO  SNOW.  The  potatoes  must 
be  free  fioni  spots,  and  the  wiiitest  you  can 
pick  out ;  put  them  on  in  cold  water;  when 
they  begin  to  crack,  sti-ain  the  water  from 


POT 


151 


POU 


(hem)  and  put  them  into  a  clean  stewpan  by 
tlie  side  of  the  fire  till  they  are  quite  dry, 
and  fall  to  pieces ;  rub  them  through  a  wire 
sieve  on  the  dish  they  are  to  be  sent  up  in, 
and  do  not  disturb  them  afterward. 

POT  POURRI.  Gather,  when  perfect- 
ly diy,  a  peck  of  roses ;  pick  off  the  leaves, 
and  strew  over  them  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  common  salt;  let  them  remain 
two  or  three  days,  and  if  any  fresh  flowers 
are  added,  some  more  salt  should  be  sprin- 
kled over  them.  Mix  with  the  roses  half  a 
pound  of  finely-pounded  bay  salt,  the  same 
quantity  of  allspice,  of  cloves,  and  of  brown 
sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  giun-benja- 
min,  and  two  ounces  of  orris-root;  add  a 
glass  of  brandy,  and  any  sort  of  fragrant 
flower,  such  as  orange  and  lemon  flowers, 
rosemary,  and  a  great  quantity  of  lavender 
flowers — also  white  lilies:  a  green  orange 
stuck  with  cloves  may  be  added.  All  the 
flowers  must  be  gathered  jierfectly  dry. 

POTTING  BEEF,  VEAL,  GAME,  or 
POULTRY.  Take  three  pounds  of  lean 
gravy  beef,  rub  it  well  with  an  ounce  of 
saltpetre,  and  then  a  handful  of  common 
salt ;  let  it  lie  in  salt  for  a  couple  of  days, 
rubl)ing  it  well  each  day;  then  put  it  into 
an  eartiien  pan  or  stone  jar  that  will  just 
hold  it ;  cover  it  with  the  skin  and  fat  that 
you  cut  off,  and  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter; cover  it  close  with  paste,  and  set  it  in 
a  very  slow  oven  for  about  fom*  hours. 

When  it  comes  from  the  oven,  drain  the 
gravy  from  it  into  a  basin ;  pick  out  the  gris- 
tles and  the  skins;  mince  it  fine;  moisten  it 
with  a  little  of  the  gravy  you  poured  from 
tlie  meat,  which  is  a  verj'  strong  consotnine 
(but  rather  salt),  and  it  will  make  excellent 
pea.se  soup,  or  browning ;  pound  the  meat 
patiently  and  thoroughly  in  a  mortar  with 
some  fiesh  butter,  till  it  is  a  tine  paste  (to 
make  potted  meat  smooth  there  is  nothing 
etpial  to  plenty  of  elbow-grease)  ;  seasoning 
it  by  degrees,  as  you  are  l)eating  it,  with 
a  little  black  jiepper  and  allspice,  or  cloves 
poundetl,  or  mace,  or  grated  nutmeg. 

Put  it  in  (X)ts,  press  it  down  as  close  as 
possible,  and  cover  it  a  (]uarter  of  an  inch 
thick  with  clarified  butter;  and  if  you  wish 
to  preserve  it  a  long  lime,  over  that  tie  a 
bladder.     Keep  it  in  a  dry  place. 

You  may  mince  a  little  ham  or  bacon,  or 
an  anchovy,  sweet  or  savory  herbs,  or  an 
eschalot,  and  a  little  tarragon,  chervil,  or 
burnet,  &c.,  and  pound  them  with  the  meat, 
witli  a  glass  of  wine,  or  some  mustard,  or 
forcemeat. 

It  is  a  very  agreeable  and  economical 
way  of  using  the  remains  of  gjime  or  poul- 
try, or  a  large  joint  of  eitlier  roasted  or 
boiled  beef,  veal,  ham,   or   tongue,  &c.  to 


mince  it  with  some  of  the  fat,  or  moisten 
it  with  a  little  butter,  and  beat  it  in  a  mor- 
tar with  the  seasoning,  &c. 

Meat  that  has  beien  boiled  down  for 
gravies,  &c.  (which  has  heretofore  been 
considered  the  perquisite  of  the  cat)  and  is 
completely  drained  of  all  its  succulence,  beat 
in  a  mortar  with  salt  and  a  little  ground 
black  pepper  and  allspice,  as  directed  in 
the  foregoing  receipt,  and  it  will  make  as 
good  potted  lieef  as  meat  that  has  been 
baked  till  its  moisture  is  entirely  extracted, 
which  it  must  be,  or  it  will  not  keep  two 
days. 

Mem. — Meat  that  has  not  been  previous- 
ly salted,  will  not  keep  so  long  as  that 
which  has. 

POULTRY.  In  choosing  a  turkey,  the 
young  cock  bird  is  to  be  preferred  ;  the  best 
have  black  legs,  and  if  young,  the  toes  and 
bill  are  pliable  and  feel  soft.  A  hen  turkey 
is  chosen  by  the  same  rules. 

Fowls  with  black  legs  are  the  Ijest;  if 
fresh,  the  vent  is  close  and  dark ;  if  young, 
the  combs  are  bright  in  the  color,  and  the 
legs  smooth — the  spurs  of  a  young  cock  are 
short. 

A  goose,  if  young  and  fine,  is  plump  in 
the  breast,  the  fat  white  and  soft,  the  feet 
yellow,  and  but  few  hairs  upon  them. 

Ducks  may  be  chosen  by  tlie  same  rules, 
and  are  hard  and  thick  on  the  breast  and 
belly. 

Pigeons  should  be  quite  fresh,  the  breast 
plump  and  fat,  the  feet  elastic,  and  neither 
flabby  nor  discolored  at  the  vent. 

To  prepare  a  turkey  for  dressing,  every 
plug  is  carefully  picked  out ;  and  in  drawing 
turkeys  and  fowls,  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  break  the  gall  bag,  nor  the  gut  which 
joins  the  gizzard,  as  it  is  impossible  to  re- 
move the  bitterness  of  the  one,  or  the  gritti- 
ness  of  the  other.  The  hairs  are  singed  off" 
with  white  paper;  the  leg-bone  is  broken 
close  to  the  foot,  and  the  sinews  drawn  out 
— a  cloth  is  then  put  over  the  breast,  and 
the  bone  flattened  with  a  rolling-pin,  the 
liver  and  gizzard,  made  delicately  clean,  are 
fastened  into  each  pinion.  A  stufling  made 
with  sausage  meat,  adding  soTue  grated 
bread,  and  mixing  it  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  or  a  stuffing  as  for  a  fillet  of 
veal,  is  then  put  into  the  breast,  and,  the 
turkey,  well  rubbed  over  with  flour,  is  put 
down  to  roast.  It  is  basted  constantly  with 
butter,  and  when  the  steam  draws  towai-ds 
the  fire,  it  is  nearly  done; — it  is  then  dredg- 
ed with  flour,  and  basted  with  more  butter, 
served  with  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  garnished 
with  sausages,  or  with  forcemeat  balls  if 
veal  stuffing  is  used,  and  bread  sauce  in  a 
sauce  tureen. 

To  boil  a  turkey.     After  being  nicely 


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152 


PRESERVES 


cleaned,  it  is  trussed  with  the  legs  drawn  in 
under  the  skin,  stuffed  with  a  forcemeat,  as 
for  veal,  adding  a  few  chopped  oysters; 
then  boiled  in  a  well-floured  cloth,  and  serv- 
ed with  oyster,  white  or  celery  sauce,  poured 
over  it,  and  also  some  in  a  sauce  tureen. 
Boiled  ham,  tongue,  or  pickled  pork,  is  eat- 
en with  it.  A  large-sized  turkey  will  require 
more  than  two  hours  to  boil.  Turkey,  with 
celery  sauce,  is  stuffed  and  tnissed  neatly, 
laid  all  over  with  slices  of  bacon,  tied  in  a 
clotli,  and  boiled  in  water,  with  a  little  salt, 
butter,  and  lemon-juice  added.  It  is  served 
tliickly  covered  with  celery  sauce. 

Turkey  poults  are  stuffed  and  roasted  in 
tlie  same  manner  as  a  full-grown  tiu-key. 
They  will  require  rather  more  than  an  hour 
to  roast.  They  are  dressed  with  the  heads 
twisted  under  the  wing,  as  are  also  turkeys 
sometimes,  but  it  seems  an  injudicious  cus- 
tom, as  the  side  on  which  the  head  is  cannot 
be  nicely  browned,  and  in  carving,  the  blood 
from  the  neck  is  apt  to  mingle  with  the 
gravy. 

To  roast  a  fowl.  It  is  picked,  nicely 
cleaned,  and  singed;  the  neck  is  cut  off 
close  by  the  back ;  the  fowl  is  then  washed, 
and  if  a  large  one,  stuffed  with  forcemeat. 
It  is  trussed  and  dredged  with  flour ;  and 
when  put  down  to  roast,  basted  well  with 
butter,  and  frothed  up.  When  the  steam  is 
observed  to  draw  towards  the  fiie,  it  is 
Bufiiciently  done ;  served  with  giavy  in  the 
diSh,  and  bread  sauce  in  a  butter  tureen. 
A  good-sized  fowl  will  require  above  an  hour 
to  roast. 

Chickens  are  roasted  as  the  above,  and 
served  with  gravy  in  the  dish,  which  is 
garnished  with  fi'ied  eggs,  and  bread  sauce 
in  a  sauce  tureen  ;  they  will  require  from 
imif  an  hour  to  three-fjuarters  to  roast. 

To  boil  a  fowl.  When  nicely  singed, 
washed,  and  trussed,  it  is  well  dredged  with 
flour,  and  put  on  in  boiling  water,  and  if  a 
large  one,  boiled  nearly  >  an  hour.  It  is 
served  with  parsley  and  buttei",  white,  or 
liver  sauce. 

Two  boiled  fowls,  served  with  a  tongue 
between  them,  make  a  handsome  top  disli. 

Boiled  chickens  are  improved  by  being 
stuffed,  and  will  require  nearly  half  an  hour 
to  boil. 

To  roast  a  goose.  After  being  well 
cleaned,  picked,  and  singed,  it  is  washed, 
made  perfectly  dry,  and  stuffed  with  about 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  bread,  an  on- 
ion finely  minced,  together  with  three  sage- 
leaves,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
mixed  with  a  well-beaten  egg;  or,  the 
stuffing  is  made  of  boiled  mashed  potatoes, 
seasoned  in  the  same  way  as  the  other,  and 
mixed  with  a  beaten  egg.  If  roasted  on  a 
spit,  each  end  is  tied  on  tightly ;  it  is  basted 
at  first  with  a  little  bit  of  butter,  after  which 


the  fat  that  drops  from  it  is  used.  It  is 
served  with  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  apple 
sauce  in  a  sauce  tureen.  A  large  goose  will 
require  an  hour  and  a  half  to  roast.  At  ta- 
ble, an  opening  is  cut  in  the  apron,  and  a 
glass  of  Port  wine,  with  which  is  mixed  a 
large  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard,  is  pour- 
ed into  the  body  of  the  goose.  This  is  also 
an  improvement  to  ducks. 

A  green  goose,  about  two  or  three  months 
old,  is  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  only, 
and  lequires  to  be  basted  with  butter.  It 
requires  about  an  hour  to  roast. 

To  roast  ducks.  They  are  nicely  picked, 
cleaned,  singed,  and  washed,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  salt ;  or  stuffed,  and  served  with 
gravy,  as  directed  in  pp.  66,  67.  A  duck 
may  be  boiled  for  nearly  an  hour,  and  served 
with  onion  sauce  poured  over  it. 

PRESERVES,  SWEETMEATS.  &c. 

All  sweetmeats  should  be  preserved  in  a 
brass  pan,  which  must  be  well  scoured  with 
sand  and  vinegai-,  washed  with  hot  water, 
and  wiped  perfectly  dry  before  it  is  used. 

An  iron  plate  or  stove  is  preferal)le  to  a 
fire  for  preserving  on;  and  by  boiling  the 
fruit  quickly,  the  form,  color,  and  flavor, 
will  be  belter  preserved,  and  there  will  be 
less  waste  than  in  slow  boiling.  A  round 
wooden  stick,  smaller  at  one  end  than  at 
the  other,  in  Scotland  called  a  thevil,  is 
better  adapted  for  stirring  sugar  or  preserves 
with  than  a  silver  spoon,  which  last  is  only 
used  for  skimming.  That  there  may  be  no 
waste  in  taking  off  the  scum,  it  is  put  through 
a  fine  silk  sieve,  or  through  a  hair  sieve, 
with  a  bit  of  muslin  laid  into  it;  the  clear 
part  will  run  into  the  vessel  placed  lielow, 
and  may  be  returned  to  the  preserving- 
pan, 

A  silver  soup  ladle  is  used  for  putting  pre- 
serves into  the  jars,  which  should  be  of 
brown  stone,  or  of  white  wedgewood  wai-e. 
After  the  jellies  or  preserves  are  put  in,  they 
must  not  be  moved  till  quite  cold,  when  they 
are  covered  with  a  piece  of  white  paper,  cut 
so  as  to  fit  into  the  jar,  and  dipped  into  brandy 
or  rum.  They  are  then  stored  in  a  cool  dry 
))lace,  and  should  be  looked  at  occasionally. 
If  in  a  few  weeks  they  l)e  oljserved  to  fer- 
ment, the  sirup  should  be  first  strained  fiom 
the  fruit,  then  boiled  till  it  is  thick,  and 
again  poured  over  the  fruit,  previously  put 
into  clean  jars. 

Sugar,  low  in  price,  and  consequently 
coarse  in  quality,  is  far  from  lieing  cheapest 
in  the  end ;  while  that  which  is  most  refin- 
ed is  always  the  test.  White  sugars  should 
be  chosen  as  shining  and  as  close  in  texture 
as  possible. 

The  best  sort  of  brown  sugar  has  a  bright 
and  gi-avelly  appearance. 

A  jelly-bag  is  made  of  half  a  square  of 


PRESERVES 


153 


PRESERVES 


flannel  folded  by  the  cornerg,  and  one  side 
sewed  up;  the  top  bound  with  tape,  and 
four  loops  also  of  tajje  sewed  on,  so  as  to 
hang  upon  a  stand  made  of  four  bars  of 
wood,  each  thirty-six  inches  in  height,  fast- 
ened with  four  bars  at  the  top,  each  meas- 
uring ten  inches,  with  hooks  upon  the  cor- 
ners. Twelve  inches  from  the  bottom  four 
more  bars  are  placed.  A  pan  or  basin  is 
put  underneath  to  receive  the  juice  or  jelly 
as  it  di-ops  through  the  bag. 

To. save  Sugar  in  Preserving  Cher- 
ries, Green  Gages,  Damsons,  Currants, 
and  Raspberries.  Gather  the  fiuit  perfectly 
dry,  and  to  a  pound  allow  five  ounces  of  finely- 
pounded  loaf  sugar ;  put  a  layer  of  fruit  into  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle  or  jar,  and  then  one  of 
sugar,  till  the  vessel  is  full ;  tie  over  it  tightly 
two  fold's  of  sound  bladder,  and  put  them  into 
a  copper  or  pan,  with  straw  in  the  bottom, 
and  water  as  high  as  the  necks,  and  let  them 
simmer  for  tlnce  hours.  When  the  water 
cools,  take  out  the  bottles,  and  keep  them 
in  a  cool  dry  place. 

FRUIT,      WITHOUT 


SUGAR.  Take  damsons  when  not  too 
ripe ;  pick  off  the  stalks,  and  put  them  into 
wide-mouthed  glass  bottles,  taking  care  not 
to  put  in  any  but  what  are  whole,  and  with- 
out blemish ;  shake  them  well  down  (other- 
wise the  bottles  will  not  be  half  full  when 
done) ;  stop  the  bottles  with  new  soft  corks, 
not  too  tight ;  set  them  into  a  very  slow  oven 
(nearly  cold)  four  or  five  hours  ;  the  slower 
they  are  done  the  better;  when  they  begin 
to  shrink  in  the  bottles,  it  is  a  sure  sign  that 
the  fruit  is  thoroughly  warm:  take  them 
out,  and  before  tiiey  are  cold,  drive  in  the 
corks  quite  tight ;  set  them  in  a  bottle-rack  or 
basket,  with  the  mouth  downwards,  and  they 
will  keep  good  several  years. 

Green  gooselierries,  morello  cherries,  cur- 
rants, green  gages,  or  bullace,  may  be  done 
the  same  way. 

Obs. — If  die  corks  are  good,  and  fit  well, 
tliere  will  be  no  occasion  for  cementing 
tliem ;  but  should  bungs  be  used,  it  will  be 
necessary. 

APPLES.     (1)     Pare,   core. 


and  quarter  six  pounds  of  good  hard  bak 
ing  apples ;  finely  pound  four  pounds  of  loaf 
sugar ;  put  a  layer  of  each  alternately,  with 
half  a  pound  of  die  test  white  ginger,  into  a 
jar;  let  it  remain  eight-and-forty  hours ;  infuse, 
for  half  that  time,  in  a  little  boiling  water, 
half  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bruised  white 
ginger;  strain  and  boil  the  liquor  with  the 
apples  till  they  look  clear,  and  the  sirup  rich 
and  tliick,  which  may  be  in  about  an  hour. 
Take  oflF  die  scum  as  it  rises.  When  to  be 
eaten,  pick  out  the  whole  ginger. 


PRESERVED  APPLES.   (2)   Weigh 

equal  quantities  of  good  brown  sugar  and  of 
apples;  peel,coie,  and  mince  them  small.  Boil 
the  sugar,  allowing  to  every  three  pounds  a 
pint  of  water ;  skim  it  well,  and  boil  it  pretty 
thick;  then  add  the  apples,  the  grated  peel 
of  one  or  two  lemons,  and  two  or  three 
pieces  of  white  ginger;  boil  till  the  apples 
fall,  and  look  clear  and  yellow.  This  pre- 
serve will  keep  for  years. 


APPLES,     GREEN    COD- 

LINGS.  Gather  the  codlings  when  not 
bigger  than  French  walnuts  with  the  stalks 
and  a  leaf  or  two  on  each.  Put  a  handful  of 
vine  leaves  into  a  presei-ving-pan,  then  a  layer 
of  codlings,  then  vine  leaves,  and  then  cod- 
lings and  vine  leaves  alternately,  until  it  is 
full,  with  vine  leaves  pietty  thickly  strewed 
on  the  top,  and  fill  the  pan  with  spring  wa- 
ter ;  cover  it  close  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and 
set  it  on  a  slow  fire  till  die  apjiles  become 
soft.  Take  them  out,  and  pare  off  the 
rinds  with  a  penknife,  and  then  put  them 
into  the  same  water  again  with  the  vine 
leaves,  but  taking  care  that  the  water  is 
become  quite  cold,  or  it  will  cause  them 
to  crack;  put  in  a  little  alum  and  set 
them  over  a  slow  fire  till  they  are  green, 
when,  take  them  out  and  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  to  drain.  Make  a  good  sirup  and 
give  them  a  gentle  boil  three  successive 
days;  then  put  tliem  in  small  jars  with 
brandy  paper  over  them,  and  tie  tliem 
down  tight. 


APPLES,   Golden  Pippins. 

Take  the  rind  of  an  orange  and  boil  it  very 
tender ;  lay  it  in  cold  water  for  Uiree  days ; 
take  two  dozen  golden  pippins,  pare,  core, 
and  quarter  them,  and  boil  them  to  a  strong 
jelly,  and  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag  till  it  is 
clear;  take  the  same  quantity  of  pippins, 
pare  and  core  them,  and  put  three  pounds 
of  loaf  sugar  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  spring  water;  let  it  boil ; 
skim  it  well  and  put  in  your  pippins,  with 
tlie  orange  rind  cut  into  long  thin  slips ; 
then  let  them  boil  fast  till  the  sugar  becomes 
thick  and  will  almost  candy;  then  put  in  a 
pint  and  half  of  pippin  jelly,  and  boil  fast 
till  the  jelly  is  clear;  then  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  a  fine  lemon ;  give  the  whole  an- 
other boil,  and  put  the  pippins  in  pots  or 
glasses  with  the  orange-jieel. 

Lemon-peel  may  be  used  instead  of  or- 
ange, but  then  it  must  only  be  boiled,  and 
not  soaked. 

APRICOTS.     Pare  your  ap- 


ricots, and  stone  what  you  can  whole,  tlien 
give  them  a  light  boiling  in  water  propor- 
tioned to  the  quantity  of  fruit,  only  just 
enough ;  then  take  tlie  weight  of  die  apricots 


PRESERVES 


154 


PRESERVES 


in  sugar,  and  take  the  liquor  in  which  they' 
have  boiled,  smd  the  sugar,  and  boil  it  till 
it  comes  to  a  sirup,  and  give  diem  a  light 
boiling,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises. 
When  the  sirup  jellies  it  is  enough;  then 
take  up  the  apricots  and  cover  them  with 
tlie  jelly ;  put  cut  paper  over  them,  and  lay 
them  down  when  cold. 


BLACKCURRANTS.   Gather 

the  currants  upon  a  dry  day;  to  every 
pound  allow  half  a  pint  of  red  currant 
juice,  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  finely- 
pounded  loaf  sugar.  With  scissors  clip  off 
the  heads  and  stalks ;  put  the  juice,  sugar, 
and  currants  into  a  preserving  pan ;  shake 
it  frequently  till  it  boils;  carefully  remove 
the  firuit  from  the  sides  of  tlie  pan,  and  take 
(^  the  scum  as  it  rises ;  let  it  boil  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes.  This  preserve  may  be  eat- 
«Q  with  cream,  and  made  into  tarts. 


— ; CHERRIES.     To  a  pound  of 

cherries  allow  tliree-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar;  carefully  stone  them, 
and  as  tliey  are  done,  strew  part  of  the  su- 
gar over  them ;  boil  them  fast,  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  sugar,  till  the  fruit  is  clear 
and  the  sirup  thick ;  take  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises.  Or  they  may  be  boiled  ten  minutes 
in  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar,  which  has 
been  previously  clarified  and  boiled  candy 
high.     Part  of  the  kernels  may  be  added. 


CUCUMBERS.      Take  large 

and  fresh-gathered  cucumbers;  split  them 
down  and  take  out  all  tlie  seeds ;  lay  them 
in  salt  and  water  that  will  bear  an  egg, 
three  days;  set  them  on  a  fire  with  cold 
water,  and  a  small  lump  of  alum,  and  boil 
them  a  few  minutes,  or  till  tender;  drain 
them,  and  pour  on  them  a  tliin  sirup;  let 
them  lie  two  days;  boil  tlie  simp  again,  and 
put  it  over  the  cucumbers;  repeat  it  twice 
more;  then  have  ready  some  fresh  clarified 
sugar,  boiled  to  a  blow ;  put  in  the  cucumbeis, 
simmer  it  five  minutes;  set  it  by  till  next 
day;  boil  the  sirup  and  cucumbers  again, 
and  set  them  in  glasses  for  use. 

CUCUMBERS,  SMALL. 


Weigh  equal  proportions  of  small  green  cu- 
cumbers and  of  fine  loaf  sugai-,  clarify  it; 
rub  tlie  cucumbers  with  a  cloth,  scald  them 
in  hot  water,  and,  when  cold,  put  them  into 
the  sirup,  with  some  white  ginger  and  the 
peel  of  a  lemon ;  boil  them  gently  for  ten 
minutes.  The  following  day  just  let  them 
boil,  and  repeat  this  three  times,  and  the 
last,  boil  them  till  tender  and  clear. 

DAMSONS.  (1)  To  every  pound 


of  damsons  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar;  put  into  jars  alter- 


nately a  layer  of  damsons,  and  one  of  sugar; 
tie  tliem  over  with  bladder  or  strong  paper, 
and  put  them  into  an  oven  after  the  bread  is 
withdrawn,  and  let  them  remain  till  the  oven 
is  cold.  The  following  day  strain  off  the 
sirup,  and  boil  it  till  thick.  When  cold, 
put  the  damsons  one  by  one  into  small  jars, 
and  pour  over  them  the  sirup,  which  must 
cover  them.  Tie  them  over  with  wet 
bladder. 


DAMSONS.    (2)   Prick  them 


with  a  needle,  and  boil  them  with 
the  saipe  proportion  as  in  ■  the  receipt"  to 
preserve  damsons,  till  the  sirup  will  jelly. 
Carefiilly  take  off  all  tlie  scum. 


—    GREEN    GAGES.      Put   the 

plums  into  boiling  water,  pare  off  the  skin, 
and  divide  them ;  take  an  equal  quantity  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  stiew  half  of  it  over  the 
fruit;  let  it  remain  some  hours,  and,  with 
the  remainder  of  the  sugar,  put  it  into  a 
preserving  pan;  boil  till  the  plums  look 
quite  clear,  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises, 
and  a  few  minutes  before  taking  them  off 
the  fii'e,  add  the  kernels. 


LARGE    SWEET    GREEN 

Gooseberries.  (1)  Weigh  equal  pro- 
portions of  sugar  and  of  fruit ;  widi  a  pen- 
knife slit  the  gooseberries  on  one  side,  and 
take  out  all  the  seeds ;  put  them  into  a  pre- 
serving pan  widi  cold  water,  scald  them; 
pour  off  the  water  when  cold ;  put  over  and 
under  them  vine  leaves,  with  more  cold  water ; 
set  them  over  the  fire  togreen.  Clarify  die  su- 
gar ;  put  the  gooseberries  into  a  deep  jar,  and 
pour  the  boiling  sinip  over  tliem;  in  two 
days  pour  it  off,  boil,  and  put  it  over  the 
fruit ;  repeat  this  till  the  sirup  becomes  thick, 
then  put  them  into  small  jars. 

LARGE    SWEET    GREEN 

Gooseberries.  (2)  Gadier  the  largest- 
sized  gooseberries,  and  allow  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  pounded  loaf  sugar ;  cut  the  gooseber- 
ries in  half,  and  take  out  tlie  seeds ;  wet  the 
sugar  with  a  little  water,  and  put  all  togedier 
into  a  preserving  pan;  carefully  stir  and 
scum  them,  and  boil  them  till  the  sirup  is 
clear  and  the  fruit  soft. 

GOOSEBERRIES.    The  tops 


and  tails  being  removed  from  the  gooseber- 
ries, allow  an  equal  quantity  of  finely-pounded 
loaf  sugar,  and  put  a  layer  of  each  alternate- 
ly into  a  large  deep  jar ;  pour  into  it  as  much 
dripped  currant  juice,  either  red  or  white,  as 
will  dissolve  the  sugar,  adding  its  weight  in 
sugar ;  the  following  day  put  all  into  a  pre- 
serving pan  and  boil  it. 

GREEN    PEAS.    Put   into  a 


PUDDINGS 


155 


PUDDINGS 


saucepan  of  boiling  water  fresh  gathered 
and  fresh-shelled  peas,  but  not  very  young ; 
as  soon  as  they  boil  up,  pour  off  the  water, 
and  put  them  upon  a  large  dry  cloth  folded, 
and  tlien  upon  another,  tliat  ^  they  may  be 
perfectly  dry  witliout  being  bruised;  let 
them  lie  some  time  before  the  fire,  and  then 
put  them  into  small  paper  bags,  each  con- 
taining about  a  pint,  and  hang  them  up  in 
the  kitchen.  Before  using,  soak  them  for 
two  or  three  hours  in  water,  and  tlien  boil 
them  as  directed  for  green  {leas,  adding  a 
little  bit  of  butter,  when  they  are  put  on  to 
boil. 

PRESERVED  JARGONELLE  PEARS. 
Gather  pears  with  stalks  before  they  are 
quite  ripe ;  allow  equal  quantities  of  fine 
loaf  sugar  and  of  fmit.  Pare  the  pears  as 
thinly  as  possible,  keeping  on  the  stalks ; 
carefully  cut  out  the  black  top ;  as  they  are 
peeled  put  them  into  cold  water.  Put  cab- 
bage leaves  into  the  bottom  of  a  preserving- 
pan;  lay  in  the  pears,  cover  them  with 
cold  water  and  one  or  two  cabbage  leaves 
upon  the  top;  boil  them  thirty  minutes,  and 
lay  them  upon  a  dish.  To  six  pounds  of 
sugar,  allow  a  pound  of  water,  boil  and 
skim  it;  then  add  one  ounce  of  white  gin- 
ger, previously  soaked  in  hot  water,  and 
scraped  clean,  add  the  juice  and  thinly  par- 
ed rinds  of  two  lemons.  Boil  the  sirup  ten 
minutes,  put  in  the  pears,  and  let  tliera  boil 
twenty  minutes;  take  them  out,  put  them 
into  a  bowl  or  deep  dish,  boil  the  sirup 
eight  minutes,  and  when  cold  pour  it  over 
the  pears;  cover  them  with  pajjer;  in  four 
days  pour  off  the  sirup,  boil  it  eight  minutes, 
and  pour  it  over  the  pears  when  cold.  In 
four  days  repeat  this  process,  and  do  it  a 
third  lime;  then  stick  a  clove  in  each  pear, 
where  the  black  top  was  cut  out.  Put  them 
into  jars,  divide  the  ginger  and  lemon-peel, 
and  pour  on  the  sirup  when  cold. 

RED  PEARS.  Parljoil  a  doz- 
en of  pound  pears  in  vvatei-;  peel  them. 
Clarify  the  same  weight  of  fine  loaf  sugar 
that  there  is  of  peais ;  add  a  pint  of  Poit 
wine,  the  juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon,  with 
a  little  cochineal,  a  few  cloves,  and  a  stick 
of  cinnamon ;  boil  the  pears  in  this  till  they 
become  clear  and  red;  take  them  out,  boil 
up  the  sirup,  sti'ain,  and  put  it  over  the 
pears. 

PUDDINGS,   PIES,  AND   TARTS. 

Great  nicety  is  to  be  observed  in  prepar- 
ing every  material  used  for  boiled  or  baked 
puddings. 

The  eggs  require  to  be  well  beaten,  for 
which  purpose,  if  many  are  to  be  done,  a 
whisk  is  used ;  if  few,  a  three-pronged  fork. 
The  flour  is  dried  and  sifted.     The  cuxrants 


are  carefidly  cleaned,  by  putting  them  into 
a  cullender,  and  pouring  warm  water  over 
them;  if  very  dirty,  tliis  is  to  be  repeated 
two  or  three  times,  and  after  being  dried  in 
a  dish  before  the  fire,  diey  are  rubbed  in  a 
clean  coarse  cloth,  all  the  stalks  and  stones 
picked  out,  and  then  a  little  flour  dredged 
over  them.  The  raisins  are  stoned  with  a 
small  sharp-pointed  knife  ;  it  is  cleansed  in 
a  basin  of  water,  which  also  receives  the 
seed.  The  pudding  cloth  must  be  kept  es^ 
pecially  clean,  or  it  will  impart  an  unpleas- 
ant taste  to  anyUiing  that  is  boiled  in  it ; 
and  when  taken  off  a  pudding,  it  ought  im- 
mediately to  be  laid  in  cold  water,  and  af- 
terwards well  washed  with  s(3da  or  peai'l- 
ashes  in  hot  water.  Just  before  being  used 
for  a  rice,  bread,  or  batter  pudding,  it 
should  be  dipped  into  hot  water,  wrung, 
shaken,  and  well  dredged  with  flour;  and 
for  a  plum,  suet  pudding,  or  any  sort  of 
fruit  pudding  in  paste,  it  must  be  buttered 
before  being  floured. 

The  water  should  boil  quick  when  die 
pudding  is  put  in ;  and  it  should  be  moved 
about  for  a  minute,  for  fear  the  ingredients 
should  not  mix. 

When  the  pudding  is  done,  a  pan  of  cold 
water  should  be  ready,  and  the  pudding 
dipped  into  it  as  soon  as  it  con)es  out  of  the 
pot,  which  will  prevent  its  adhering  to  the 
cloth. 

A  bread  pudding  should' 'be  tied  loose; 
if  batter,  it  must  be  tied  tight  over,  and  a 
batter  pudding  should  be  strained  through  a 
coarse  sieve  when  all  is  mixed.  In  others, 
the  eggs  only.  If  you  boil  the  pudding  in 
a  basin  or  pan,  take  care  that  it  is  always 
well  buttered. 

When  you  make  your  puddings  without 
eggsi,  they  must  have  as  little  milk  as  will 
mix,  and  must  boil  for  three  or  four  hours. 
A  few  spoonfuls  of  small  beer,  or  one  of 
yeast,  is  the  best  substitute  for  eggs.  Your 
puddings  will  always  be  much  lighter  if  you 
beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  long 
and  separately.  You  may,  if  you  please, 
use  snow  instead  of  eggs,  either  in  puddings 
or  pancakes.  Two  large  spoonfuls  will  sup- 
ply the  place  of  one  egg ;  the  snow  may  be 
taken  up  from  any  clean  spot  before  it  is 
wanted,  and  will  not  lose  its  virtue,  though 
the  sooner  it  is  used  the  better. 

All  puddings  in  paste  are  tied  tightly,  but 
other  puddings  loosely,  in  the  cloth.  When 
a  pudding  is  to  be  boiled  in  a  shape,  a  piece 
of  buttered  white  paper  is  put  upon  the  top 
of  it,  before  the  floured  cloth  is  tied  on. 
The  pan,  dish,  or  shape,  in  which  the  pud- 
ding is  to  be  eiUier  boiled  or  baked,  must 
always  be  buttered  before  it  is  filled.  It  is 
an  improvement  to  puddings  in  general  to 
let  them  stand  some  time  after  being  prepared 
eitlier  for  boiling  or  baking.     When  a  pud- 


PUDDINGS 


156 


PUDDINGS 


ding  is  to  be  boJIfed,  it  must  be  put  on  in  a 
covered  pot,  in  plenty  of  boiling  water,  and 
never  for  a  moment  be  allowed  to  be  off  the 
boil  until  ready  to  be  served.  As  the  water 
wastes,  more,  and  always  boiling,  must  be 
added.  A  plum  pudding  is  the  better  for 
being  mixed  tlie  day  before  it  is  to  he  boiled. 
It  may  be  useful  to  observe  that  this  pudding 
will  keep  for  months  after  it  is  dressed,  if 
the  cloth  be  allowed  to  remain  upon  it,  and 
if,  when  cold,  it  be  covered  with  a  sheet  of 
foolscap  paper,  and  then  hung  up  in  a  cool 
place.  When  about  to  be  used,  it  must  be 
put  into  a  clean  cloth,  and  again  boiled  for 
an  hour;  or  it  may  be  cut  into  slices,  and 
broiled  as  wanted.  If  in  breaking  eggs  a 
bad  one  should  accidentally  drop  into  the 
basin  amongst  the  rest,  the  whole  will  be 
spoiled;  and  therefore  they  should  be  broken 
one  by  one  into  a  tea-cup.  When  the 
whites  only  of  eggs  are  required  for  a  jelly, 
or  other  things,  the  yolks,  if  not  broken,  will 
keep  good  for  three  days,  if  the  basin  they 
are  in  be  covered. 

A  slab  of  marble,  stone,  or  slate,  is  pref- 
erable to  wood  for  rolling  out  paste  on. 
The  rolling-pin,  cutters,  and  every  other  im- 
plement used  in  these  processes,  must  be 
kept  particularly  clean ;  they  should  always 
be  washed  immediately  after  teing  used, 
and  then  well  dried.  Before  using  butter 
for  paste,  it  is  'aid  for  some  time  into  cold 
water,  which  Is  changed  once  or  twice. 
When  salt  butter  is  used,  it  is  well  worked 
in  two  or  three  waters.  If  it  should  not  be 
convenient  to  make  the  paste  immediately 
before  it  is  baked,  it  will  not  suffer  from 
standing,  if  made  early  in  the  morning,  and 
the  air  excluded  from  it,  by  putting  first  a 
tin  cover  over  the  pie  or  tartlets,  and 
above  that  a  folded  table-clolh.  To  ascer- 
tain if  the  oven  be  of  a  proper  heat,  a  little 
bit  of  paste  may  be  baked  in  it,  before  any 
tiling  else  be  put  in.  Puft'  paste  requires 
rather  a  brisk  oven.  If  too  hot  it  binds  the 
suiface  and  prevents  the  steam  fiom  rising, 
and  if  too  slow  it  becomes  sodden  and  flat. 
Raised  crusts  require  a  quick  oven;  puffs 
and  tartlets,  which  are  filled  with  preserved 
fruit,  are  sufficiently  done  when  the  paste  is 
baked.  When  large  pies  have  been  in  the 
oven  for  a  few  minutes,  a  paper  is  put  over 
them  to  prevent  their  being  burned. 

PUDDING.  Sweeten  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  cream,  and  boil  it  with  the  peel  of  a  small 
lemon ;  cut  the  crumb  of  a  twopenny  roll, 
and  put  it  into  the  cream,  and  Iwil  it  for 
eight  minutes,  stirring  constantly ;  when 
thick  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  but- 
ter beaten  to  a  cream,  a  tea-spoonful  of  gi-a- 
ted  nutmeg,  and  four  well-beaten  eggs;  beat 
it  all  well  togedier  for  some  minutes.  It 
may  be  baked  or  boiled. 


APRICOT.      Take  six-and- 

thirty  nice  fine  red  apricots,  cut  them  ia 
halves,  and  tal^e  out  the  stones,  and  roll 
them  in  a  pan  with  four  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar.  Pi-ejKire  your  cnist,  line  your  mould 
with  it,  put  in  your  apricots,  and  finish  the 
same  as  in  the  receipt  for  Apple  Pudding  a 
la  Francaise. 


ALMOND,    BAKED.    Steep 

four  oynces  of  crumbs  of  bread  sliced 
in  a  pint  and  half  of  cream,  or  grate  the 
bread ;  dien  beat  half  a  pound  of  blanched 
almonds  very  fine,  till  tliey  become  a  paste, 
with  two  tea-spoonfiils  of  orange-flower  wa- 
ter ;  beat  up  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  the 
whites  of  four ;  mix  all  well  together ;  put  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  stir 
in  thi"ee  or  four  ounces  of  melted  butter; 
put  it  over  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  until 
it  is  thick ;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  at  the  bottom 
of  a  dish,  and  pour  in  die  ingiedients.  To 
bake  half  an  hour. 


ALMOND.      Blanch  and  beat 

a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  with  a  little 
rose-water,  mix  a  pound  of  bread  grated, 
a  nutmeg,  half  a  pound  of  butler,  and  tlie 
yolks  of  six  eggs,  boil  a  pint  of  cream,  co- 
lored with  a  very  little  saffron,  add  it  to  the 
eggs  and  a  little  flour,  knead  it  well,  and 
then  put  in  the  almonds,  beating  it  up  till 
all  is  mixed  together.  Boil  it  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  buttered  cluth. 


AMBER.     Put   a    pound    of 

butter  into  a  saucepan,  with  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar ;  when  melted 
and  well  mixed  together,  add  the  yolks  of 
fifteen  eggs  beaten,  and  as  much  candied  or- 
ange beaten  to  a  paste  as  will  give  color  and 
flavor  to  it.  Line  the  dish  with  paste  for 
turning  out,  and  when  filled  with  the  above, 
lay  a  crust  over,  as  you  would  a  pie,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven.  It  may  be  eaten  hot 
or  cold. 


APPLE.      (1)      Weigh    one 

pound  and  three-quarters  of  apples,  pare, 
core,  and  cut  them  into  thin  bits;  weigh 
also  ten  ounces  of  brown  sugar;  make  a 
suet  paste,  rolled  thinner  towards  the  edges 
than  in  the  middle,  and  sufficiently  large  to 
lay  into  a  two-quart  basin,  previously  but- 
tered ;  put  in  the  apple  and  sugar  alternate- 
ly, wet  tlie  edges  of  the  paste,  and  fold  it 
closely  over ;  dredge  it  with  flour,  and  tie  a 
pudding  clod)  over  the  top  of  a  basin ;  boil 
it  for  three  hours.  A  light  paste  may  be 
made  with  flour,  half  its  quantity  in  bulk  of 
grated  bread  and  suet,  mixing  it  with  milk 
or  water,  and,  instead  of  apples,  currants, 
damsons,  or  any  other  fniit,  may  be  enclos- 
ed in  it. 


PUDDINGS 


157 


PUDDINGS 


APPLE.    (2)     Peel   and  core 

aix  very  large  apples,  stew  them  in  six  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  water,  witli  tiie  rind  of  a 
lemon ;  when  soft,  beat  tliem  to  a  pulp,  add 
aix  ounces  of  melted  ft-esh  butter,  tlie  same 
<tf  good  brown  sugar,  six  well-beaten  eggs, 
half  a  wine-glass  of  brandy,  and  a  tea- 
fipoonful  of  lemon-juice;  line  a  dish  with  a 
puff  paste,  and  when  baked,  stick  all  over 
the  top  tliin  chips  of  candied  citi'on  and 
lemon-peel. 

APPLE.  (3)  Make  a  batter  wiUi 


two  eggs,  a  pint  of  milk,  and  three  or  four 
spoonfuls  of  flour;  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish, 
and  having  pared  six  or  eight  small  apples, 
place  diem  whole  in  tlie  batter  and  bake  it. 

APPLE,  BOILED.     Chop  four 


ounces  of  beef  suet  very  fine,  or  two  ounces 
of  butter,  lard,  or  dripping  ;  but  the  suet 
makes  the  best  and  lightest  crust  ;  put  it 
on  the  paste-board,  with  eight  ounces  of 
flour,  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  mix  it  well 
together  wiUi  your  hands,  and  then  put  it  all 
of  a  heap,  and  make  a  hole  in  the  middle ; 
break  one  egg  in  it,  stir  it  well  together 
with  your  finger,  and  by  degrees  infuse  as 
much  water  as  will  make  it  of  a  stiff  paste: 
roll  it  out  two  or  tliree  times,  with  the  roll- 
ing-pin, and  dien  roll  it  large  enough  to  re- 
ceive thirteen  ounces  of  apples.  It  will  look 
neater  if  boiled  in  a  basin,  well  buttered, 
llian  when  boiled  in  a  pudding-cloth,  well 
floured;  boil  it  an  hour  and  three-quarters: 
but  the  surest  way  is  to  stew  the  apples  first 
in  a  stevvpan,  with  a  wine-glassful  of  water, 
and  then  one  hour  will  boil  it.  Some  people 
like  it  flavored  widi  cloves  and  lemon-peel, 
ajid  sweeten  it  with  two  ounces  of  sugar. 
Gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  and  cher- 
ries, damsons,  and  various  plums  and  fruits, 
are  made  into  puddings  with  tlie  same  crust 
directed  for  apple  puddings. 


APPLE,    A    LA    FRAN- 

CAISE.  To  make  the  entremets  proper- 
ly, it  is  necessary  to  have  a  mould  in  the 
form  of  a  dome  four  inches  deep  and  six  in 
diameter ;  this  mould  and  its  lid  should  be 
pierced  all  over,  the  same  as  a  skimmer. 
There  should  be  a  rim  round  die  lid  of  the 
dome  diat  it  may  cover  it  so  closely  that  all 
air  may  be  excluded. 

Peel  six  and  thirty  small  red  apples 
and  cut  diem  into  quarters ;  toss  diem  in  a 
stewpan  with  four  ounces  of  fine  sugar 
(over  which  must  be  grated  die  rind  of  an 
orange),  and  four  ounces  of  butter  luke- 
warm; then  place  the  stewpan  over  die 
Btove,  with  fire  on  the  cover.  When  your 
apples  are  done,  pour  them  into  a  dish. 
Whilst  they  are  cooling  mix  up  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  stiff  paste ;  then  roll  out 
14 


half  of  it  to  the  thickness  of  the  eighdi  of  an 
inch.  With  this  crust  line  die  inside  of 
your  mould,  which  must  be  previously  well 
buttered.  Be  careful  diat  the  paste  lays 
quite  flat,  leaving  a  piece  all  romid  the  edge 
of  the  mould,  then  put  in  the  best  quarters 
of  the  apples,  and  fill  up  die  mould  with  the 
rest  of  the  apples  and  their  liquor,  then  roll 
out  die  rest  of  the  paste  very  thin,  into  two 
parts,  cut  in  rounds.  Slightly  moisten  the 
paste  which  you  have  left  round  the  edge  of 
the  mould,  and  place  upon  it  one  of  the 
rounds  of  paste,  pinching  the  edges  carefully 
together,  then  slightly  moisten,  and  place 
upon  it  your  other  round  piece  of  paste, 
pinching  the  edge  of  this  with  the  others  to 
make  it  quite  close,  then  cover  them  with 
the  lid  of  die  mould  well  buttered. 

Now,  turn  your  mould  over  into  the  mid- 
dle of  a  napkin,  and  tie  up  die  corners  of  it 
close  over  the  top  of  the  dome,  and  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  (nine  inches  deep  and  nine 
wide)  full  of  boiling  water;  and  let  it  be 
kept  constantly  boiling  for  an  hour  and  a 
half;  when  it  has  boiled  for  this  time,  take 
it  out  of  the  saucepan,  untie  the  napkin, 
take  out  the  mould,  remove  the  lid,  place 
the  mould  on  a  dish,  and  dien  carefully  take 
it  off  from  the  pudding ;  strew  fine  sugar  all 
over  your  pudding,  and  serve  it  quite  hot. 

ARROW-ROOT.  From  a  quart 


of  new  milk  take  a  small  tea-cupful,  and 
mix  it  with  two  large  spoonfuls  of  arrow- 
root. Boil  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and 
stir  it  amongst  the  arrow-root;  add,  when 
nearly  cold,  four  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs, 
widi  two  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
and  die  same  of  fresh  butter  broken  into 
small  bits ;  season  with  grated  nutmeg.  Mix 
it  well  together,  and  bake  it  in  a  buttered 
dish  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

AUNT  MARY'S.    Of  bloom 


raisins  stoned,  currants  nicely  cleaned,  suet 
finely  minced,  bread  grated,  apples  minced, 
and  brown  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
each ;  four  well-beaten  eggs,  a  tea-spoonful 
of  pounded  ginger,  half  a  one  of  salt,  half  a 
nutmeg  grated,  and  one  glass  of  brandy; 
mix  all  the  ingredients  well,  and  boil  it  in  a 
cloth  for  two  hours.  Sei^ve  with  a  sauce  of 
melted  butter,  a  glass  of  wine,  and  some 
sugar. 


BARLEY.     Take  a  pound   of 

pearl  barley  well  washed,  three  quarts  of 
new  milk,  one  quart  of  cream,  and  half  a 
pound  of  double  refined  sugar,  a  grated  nut- 
meg, and  some  salt ;  mix  them  well  together, 
then  put  them  into  a  deep  pan,  and  bake  it; 
then  take  it  out  of  the  oven,  and  put  into  it 
six  eggs  well  beaten,  six  ounces  of  beef  mar- 
row, and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated 


PUDDINGS 


158 


PUDDINGS 


bread ;  mix  all  well  together,  then  put  it  in- 
to another  i>an,  bake  it  again,  and  it  will  be 
excellent. 

BATTER,  BAKED  OR  BOIL- 
ED. Break  thi-ee  eggs  in  a  basin  witli 
as  much  salt  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence; 
beat  diem  well  togeUier,  and  then  add  four 
ounces  of  flour ;  beat  it  into  a  smooth  bat- 
ter, and  by  degrees  add  half  a  pint  of  milk : 
have  your  saucepan  ready  boiling,  and  but- 
ter an  earthen  mould  well,  put  the  pudding 
in,  and  tie  it  tight  over  with  a  pudding- 
cloth,  and  boil  it  one  hour  and  a  quarter. 
Or,  put  it  in  a  dish  that  you  have  well  but- 
tered and  bake  it  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Corrants  washed  and  picked  clean,  or  rai- 
sins stoned,  are  good  in  this  pudding,  and 
it  is  then  called  a  black  cap :  or,  add  loaf 
(sugar,  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  ginger  with- 
out the  fruit,  —  it,  is  very  good  that  way; 
verve  it  witli  wine  sauce. 


BATTER.     Take   six   ounces 

of  fine  flour,  a  little  salt,  and  three  eggs ; 
beat  it  well  with  a  little  milk,  added 
by  degrees  till  the  batter  become  smooth; 
make  it  the  thickness  of  cream ;  put  into 
a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  three-quarters 
of  an  hour:  or  into  a  buttered  and  floured 
basin,  tied  over  tight  with  a  cloth:  boil  one 
and  a  half  hour,  or  two  hours. 


BATTER,   WITHOUT 

Mix  six  spoonfuls  of  flour  with  a 


EGGS 

nnall  portion  of  a  quart  of  milk;  and  when 
smooth  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  two  tea-sjwonfuls  of  grated 
ginger,  and  two  of  tincture  of  saffion ;  stir 
all  together  well,  and  boil  it  an  hour.  Fmit 
may  be  added  or  not. 


BEEF-STEAK.  Get  rump- 
steaks,  not  too  thick,  beat  them  with  a  chop- 
per, cut  them  into  pieces  about  half  the  size 
of  your  hand,  and  trim  ofl*  all  the  skin,  sin- 
ews, &c. ;  have  ready  an  onion  peeled  and 
chopped  fine,  likewise  some  potatoes  peeled 
and  cut  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick;  rub  the  inside  of  a  basin  or  an  oval 
plain  mould  with  butter,  sheet  it  with  paste 
as  directed  for  boiled  puddings,  season  the 
steaks  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg;  put  in  a  layer  of  steak,  then  anotlier 
of  potatoes,  and  so  on  till  it  is  full,  occasion- 
ally throwing  in  part  of  the  chopped  onion ; 
add  to  it  half  a  gill  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon-pickle,  and  half  a 
gill  of  water  or  veal  broth ;  roll  out  a  top, 
and  close  it  well  to  prevent  the  water  getting 
in ;  rinse  a  clean  cloth  in  hot  water,  sprinkle 
a  little  flour  over  it,  and  tie  up  the  pudding; 
have  ready  a  large  pot  of  water  Ixjiling, 
put  it  in,  and  boil  it  two  hours  and  a  half; 


take  it  up,  remove  the  cloth,  turn  it  down- 
wards in  a  deep  dish,  and  when  wanted  take 
away  the  basin  or  mould. 


BEEFS  TEAK,  BAKED., 

Make  a  batter  of  milk,  two  eggs,  and  flour, 
or,  which  is  much  better,  potatoes  boiled  and 
mashed  through  a  cullender ;  lay  a  little  of 
it  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish ;  then  put  in  tlie 
steaks,  prepared  as  above,  and  very  well 
seasoned ;  pour  the  remainder  of  tlie  batter 
over  tliem,  and  bake  it . 

BISCUIT.       Pour     a     pint 


of  boiling  milk  over  three  Naples  biscuits 
grated ;  cover  it  close ;  when  cold  add  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  two  whites,  nutmeg,  a 
little  brandy,  half  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and 
some  sugar.     Boil  it  an  hour  in  a  basin. 

BOSTON  APPLE.     Peel  one 


dozen  and  a  half  of  good  apples ;  take  out 
the  cores,  cut  them  small,  put  into  a  stewpan 
that  will  just  hold  them,  with  a  little  water, 
a  little  cinnamon,  two  cloves,  and  the  peel 
of  a  lemon;  stew  over  a  slow  fire  till  quite 
soft,  then  sweeten  with  moist  sugar,  and 
pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve;  add  to  it  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one  white,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  good  butter,  half  a  nutmeg, 
the  peel  of  a  lemon  grated,  and  the  juice  of 
one  lemon :  beat  all  well  together ;  line  the 
inside  of  a  pie-dish  with  good  puff"  paste; 
put  in  the  pudding,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

BRANDY.     Line  a  mould  with 


jar-raisins  stoned,  or  dried  cherries,  then 
lay  thin  slices  of  French  roll ;  next  put  a  lay- 
er of  ratafias  or  macaroons,  then  the  fruit, 
roUs,  and  cakes,  in  succession,  until  the 
niOuld  l)e  full,  pouring  in  at  times,  two 
passes  of  bi-audy.  Beat  four  eggs,  yolks  and 
whites  separately,  put  to  them  a  pint  of  milk 
or  cream,  lightly  sweetened,  half  a  nutmeg, 
and  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  grated.  Pour 
it  into  the  mould,  and  when  the  solid  has 
imbibed  it  all,  flour  a  cloth,  tie  it  tight  over, 
and  boil  an  hour ;  keep  the  mould  the  right 
side  upwards. 

BREAD    AND    BUTTER. 


Cut  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  without 
the  crust,  lay  some  in  tlie  bottom  of  a  dish, 
then  put  a  layer  of  well-cleaned  currants,  or 
any  preserved  fruit;  tlien  more  bread  and 
butter,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  neaily  filled ; 
mix  with  a  quart  of  milk  four  well-lieaten 
eggs,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
or  rose  water ;  sweeten  it  well  with  brown 
sugar,  and  pour  it  over  the  bread  and  butter, 
and  let  it  soak  for  two  or  three  hours  before 
being  baked.  It  will  take  nearly  an  hour. 
Serve  with  a  sauce,  in  a  sauce-tureen,  made 
with  a  tea-cupful  of  currant  wine,  a  table- 


PUDDINGS 


159 


PUDDINGS 


spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  three  of  water,  and 
a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wakut,  stirred  till 
boiling  hot. 

BREAD.  (1)  Cut  two  or  three 

slices  of  bread  rather  thin,  and  without  the 
crust,  put  them  in  a  dish,  and  pour  over 
them  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk ;  let  it  stand 
till  cold,  and  then  mash  the  bread ;  lay  into 
the  bottom  of  a  pudding  dish  a  layer  of  pre- 
served gooseberries,  then  add  the  bread; 
sweeten  well  a  pint  of  good  milk,  and  mix 
with  it  thi-ee  well-beaten  eggs  with  two  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  rose  water;  pour  it  over  the 
bread,  and  bake  it  for  an  hour.  Before 
serving,  nutmeg  may  be  grated  over  the  top. 

BREAD.  (2)  Make  a  pint  of 


bread-crumbs ;  put  them  m  a  stewpan  with 
as  much  milk  as  will  cover  them,  the  peel 
of  a  lemon,  a  little  nutmeg  grated,  and  a 
small  piece  of  cinnamon;  boil  about  ten 
minutes ;  sweeten  with  powdered  loaf  sugar ; 
take  out  the  cinnamon,  and  put  in  four  eggs ; 
beat  all  well  together,  and  baJie  half  an  hour, 
or  boil  rather  more  than  an  hour« 


PLAIN  BREAD.    Make  five 

ounces  of  bread-crumbs ;  put  them  in  a  ba- 
sin ;  pour  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk  over  them ;  put  a  plate  over  the  top  to 
keep  in  the  steam ;  let  it  stand  twenty  min- 
utes, tlien  beat  it  up  quite  smooth  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 
Break  four  eggs  on  a  plate,  leaving  out  one 
white ;  beat  them  well,  and  add  them  to  the 
pudding.  Stir  it  all  well  together,  and  put  it 
in  a  mould  that  has  been  well  buttered  and 
floured ;  tie  a  cloth  over  it,  and  boil  it  one 
hour. 


BUTTER-MILK.    Turn  t 


Ik? 


quarts  of  new  milk  with  one  of  butter-mii 
drain  off  the  whey,  and  mix  with  the  curd 
the  grated  crumb  of  a  twopenny  roll,  the 
grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  nearly  a  whole  nut- 
meg grated,  half  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  six 
ounces  of  clarified  butter,  and  the  beaten 
yolks  of  nine,  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs ; 
sweeten  it  well,  and  bake  it  with  or  without 
a  puff  paste,  for  thi'ee- quarters  of  an  hour. 
It  may  be  boiled. 

CAMP.     Put  into  a  saucepan 


half  a  pint  of  water,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  add 
the  peel  of  half  a  lemon  or  orange.  Let  it 
just  come  to  a  boil,  take  it  off,  and  stir  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour ;  mix  it 
perfectly  smooth,  and  when  cold,  beat  in 
four  well-beaten  eggs.  Half  fill  twelve  yel- 
low tea-cups,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick 
oven.  Serve  them  with  a  sauce  of  wine, 
sugar,  and  butter,  in  a  sauce-tureen. 


CARROT.     Pound  in  a  mortar 

the  red  part  of  two  large  boiled  carrots ;  add 
a  slice  of  grated  bread,  or  pounded  biscuit, 
two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  a  table-spoonful  of  marma- 
lade, or  a  bit  of  orange-peel  minced ;  half  a 
tea-spoonfiil  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  four  well- 
beaten  eggs ;  mix  all  well  together ;  bake  it 
in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste. 


CALF'S    FEET.      Pick    all 

the  meat  off  three  well-boiled  calPs  feet; 
chop  it  finely,  as  also  half  a  pound  of  fi-esh 
beef  suet ;  grate  the  crumb  of  a  penny  loaf; 
cut  like  straws  an  ounce  of  orange-peel,  and 
the  same  of  citron ;  beat  well  six  eggs,  and 
grate  a  small  nutmeg ;  mix  all  tliese  ingre- 
dients well  together,  with  a  glass  of  brandy 
or  rum,  and  boil  it  in  a  cloth  nearly  three 
hours.     Serve  widi  a  sweet  sauce. 

CHERRY,   ANGLO   FRAN- 

CAIS.  Pick  two  pounds  of  fine  ripe 
cherries,  and  mix  them  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  picked  red  currants,  (having  ex- 
tracted tlie  seeds),  and  six  ounces  of  powder 
sugar.  Make  yoiu*  pudding  as  directed  in 
ihe  receipt  for  apple  pudding,  with  Musca- 
del  raisins.  You  may  make  use  of  rasp- 
berries instead  of  currants ;  or  mix  red  or 
white  currants  and  raspben'ies. 


^ CHEESE.      (1)     Grate  one 

pound  of  mild  cheese;  beat  well  four  eggs, 
oil  one  ounce  of  butter ;  mix  these  ingredi- 
ents together  with  one  gill  of  cream,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  and  sifted 
bread,  and  bake  it  in  a  dish  oi*  tin  lined 
with  puff  paste. 

CHEESE.  (2)  Grate  a  quarter 

of  a  pound  of  good  cheese,  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  half  a  pint  of  good  milk,  and  nearly 
two  ounces  of  grated  bread,  and  one  beaten 
egg;  stir  it  till  the  cheese  be  dissolved;  put 
it  into  a  buttered  dish,  and  brown  it  in  a 
Dutch  oven.     Serve  it  quite  hot. 

CITRON.     (1)  Mixtogedier 


pint  of  cream  and  the  yolks  of  six  eggs ;  add 
to  this  four  ounces  of  fine  sugar,  the  same  of 
citron,  shred  fine,  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  and 
a  little  nutmeg;  place  this  mixture  in  a  deep 
dish,  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven,  and  turn  it  out. 

CITRON.  (2)  The  yolks  oftliree 


eggs  beaten,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  one  spoon- 
ful of  flour,  two  ounces  of  citron  cut  thin ; 
sugar  to  the  taste ;  j)ut  this  into  large  cups 
buttered;  bake  them  in  a  tolerably  quick 
oven ;  when  done,  tuni  them  out  of  the  cups, 
and  serve. 

, COCOA-NUT,   Quarter  pound 


PUDDINGS 


160 


PUDDINGS 


Cocoa-nut  grated :  same  of  powdered  sugar ; 
three' and  half  ounces  butter;  whites  of  six 
eggs ;  half  tea-spoon  of  rose-water,  and  half 
glass  of  wine  and  brandy  mixed.  Take  the 
thin  brown  skin  from  off  the  meat,  and  wash 
the  pieces  in  cold  water,  and  wipe  dry. 
Grate  a  quarter  pound  fine.  Stir  the  butter 
and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  liquor 
and  rose-water  to  thenv  Beat  the  whites 
of  tlie  eggs  till  they  stand  alone,  and  then 
stir  them  into  the  butter  and  sugar;  after- 
wards sprinkle  in  the  grated  nut,  and  stir 
hard  all  the  time.  Put  puff  paste  into  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  tlie  dish,  pour  in  the 
mixture,  and  bake  Jn  a  moderate  oven 
about  half  an  hour.  'Grate  loaf  sugm-  over 
it,  when  cold. 


COTTAGE     POTATO     OR 

CAKE.  Peel,  boil,  and  mash,  a  couple  of 
pounds  of  potatoes:  beat  them  up  into  a 
smooth  batter,  with  about  three-quarters  of 
a  pint  of  milk,  two  ounces  of  moist  sugar, 
and  two  or  three  beaten  eggs.  Bake  it 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Three 
ounces  of  currants  or  raisins  may  be  added. 
Leave  out  the  milk,  and  add  tliree  ounces  of 
butter, — it  will  make  a  very  nice  cake. 


COTTAGE.     Six  ounces  of 

currants,  half  a  pound  of  minced  suet,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  grated  bread,  half  a 
grated  nutmeg,  a  table-spoonful  of  white 
wine,  or  rose  water ;  mix  all  well  together, 
with  die  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  to  a  stiff 
paste,  and  with  floured  hands  roll  it  into 
twelve  or  thirteen  small  puddings  in  the  form 
of  sausages ;  fry  them  gently  in  butter  till  of 
a  nice  brown;  roll  tliem  well  in  the  frying- 
pan  .  Serve  wi  th  pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed 
over  them,  and  with  a  sweet  sauce.  They 
may  be  boiled. 

CRANBERRY.      Stir  into  a 


quart  of  batter,  made  stiffer  than  for  batter 
pudding,  about  a  pint  of  cranberries,  and 
boil  as  usual.  Or,  make  a  paste  as  for  apple 
pudding,  and  put  in  the  cranberries,  with 
molasses  sufficient  to  sweeten  their  acidity. 
Eaten  with  sweet  sauce. 

CURD,    BOILED.     Rub  the 


curd  of  two  gallons  of  milk,  well  drained, 
through  a  sieve ;  then  mix  with  it  six  eggs, 
a  little  cream,  two  spoonfuls  of  orange- 
flower  water,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  three 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  three  spoonfuls  of 
bread-crumbs,  half  a  pound  of  currants,  and 
half  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned.  Let  it  lx)il 
for  one  hour,  in  a  tliick  clodi  well  floured. 

CURRANT.    A  pound  of  cur- 


rants, a  pound  of  suet,  five  eggs,  four  spoon- 


fuls  of  flour,  half  a  nutmeg,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
ginger,  a  little  powder  sugar  and  a  little 
salt;  boil  this  for  three  hours. 

CURRANT  DRY.      Cliop    a 

jwund  of  suet,  and  mix  it  with  a  pound  of 
liour,  half  a  pound  of  currants,  (well  wash- 
ed), a  tea-spoonful  of  pounded  ginger,  half  a 
spoonful  of  tincture  of  saffron,  and  a  little 
salt ;  stir  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water, 
to  make  it  a  proper  consistence ;  tie  it  in  a 
buttered  cloth,  and  boil  it  for  an  hour;  serve 
it  with  melted  butter,  white  wine,  and  sugar. 

CUSTARD.     Boil   a  pint  of 


milk,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  good  cream ; 
thicken  with  flour  and  water  made  perfectly 
smooth,  till  it  is  stiff  enough  to  bear  an  egg 
on  it ;  break  in  the  yolks  of  five  eggs ;  sweet- 
en widi  powdered  loaf  sugar;  grate  in  a 
little  nutmeg  and  the  peel  of  a  lemon:  add 
half  a  glass  of  good  brandy ;  then  wliip  the 
whites  of  the  frve  eggs  till  quite  stiff,  and 
mix  gently  all  together:  line  a  pie-dish  with 
good  puff  paste,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 
N.  B. — Ground  rice,  potato  flour,  panada, 
and  all  puddings  made  froni  powders,  are, 
or  may  be,  prepared  in  the  same  way. 


DAMSON.     Make    a    batter 

with  tliree  well-beaten  eggs,  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  of  flour  and  brown  sugar  four  table- 
spoonfuls  each;  stone  a  pint  of  damsons, 
and  mix  them  with  the  batter ;  boil  it  in  a 
buttered  basin  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

EGG.      Melt   a   quarter   of  a 


pound  of  butter,  and  when  nearly  cold,  mix 
well  widi  it  the  following  ingredients: — ten 
weH-beaten  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs, 
hiffl  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  half  a  pound  of 
gp&d  brown  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  glass  of  bran- 
dy ;  bake  it  witii  or  without  a  lining  of  puff 
paste. 


FRUIT    SUET.      Of  finely 

minced  suet,  flour,  grated  bread,  and  clean- 
ed currants,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each ;  a 
tea-spoonful  of  pounded  ginger,  one  of  salt, 
two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  and  a  tea-cup- 
ful of  milk;  mix  all  the  ingredients  well  to- 
gether, and  boil  it  in  a  cloth  for  two  hours. 
Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

FAMILY.     Mix  with  a  pound 

of  flour  half  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned  and 
chopped,  the  same  quantity  of  minced  snef, 
a  little  salt,  and  milk  or  water  sufficient  to 
make  it  into  a  stiff  batter;  boil  it  for  five 
hours.  Serve  with  melted  butter  poured 
over  it.  Two  well-beaten  eggs  may  ba 
added. 


PUDDINGS 


161 


PUDDINGS 


G9OSEBERRY,    BOILED. 

This  pudding  is  made  in  the  same  manner  , 
as  Apple  pudding.  I 

INDIAN.    (1)  It  is  a  good  plan  \ 

to  make  this  pudding  the  night  before.  It 
requires  a  great  deal  of  boiling,  say  four 
or  five  hours.  Sifted  meal  and  warm  milk 
stirred  together  preRy  stiff;  salt  and  suffi- 
cient molasses  added.  Boil  in  a  stout  bag, 
or  tightly  covered  pan;  let  not  the  water 
get  in,  and  be  careful  in  tying  to  leave  room 
for  the  meal  to  swell.  Let  the  milk  you  use 
be  warm,  not  scalding.  You  may  add 
chopped  suet,  which  is  very  much  liked  by 
some,  and  likewise  ginger,  if  preferred.  If  j 
you  have  not  milk,  water  will  answer. 

INDIAN.    (2)  Boil  in  a  quart  of 


as  for  tartlets,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderately 
heated  oven. 


LEMON.  (2)  Put  half  a  pound 

of  fresh  butter  with  half  a  pound  of  loaf  su- 
gar, into  a  saucepan,  and  keep  it  sturring 
over  the  fire  till  it  boils;  put  it  into  an 
earthen  pan,  and  grate  tlie  rind  of  a  large 
lemon  into  it,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold ;  beat 
eight  eggs,  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemon 
on  them;  mix  the  sugar  and  butter  with 
them ;  put  some  rich  puff  paste  at  the  bottom 
of  a  dish,  then  put  in  the  preparation,  and 
add  bits  of  candied  lemon-peel  when  you 
have  put  in  the  preparation.  Bake  with 
great  care. 


good  milk  a  tea-cupful  of  Indian  meal,  stir 
it  constantly  till  tliick,  sweeten  it  with  trea- 
cle or  brown  sugar,  and  stir  in  two  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  an  ounce  of  butter;  bake 
it  in  a  Dutch  oven  for  half  an  hour.     Haifa 
grated  nutmeg  may  be  added,  and  it  may  be 
made  without  eggs.     A  boiled  Indian  meal 
pudding  is  made  in  the  same  way,  and  after 
being  mixed  with  or  without  eggs  in  it,  it  is  ' 
tied  in  a  buttered  and  floured  cloth,  and  boil-  j 
ed  for  two  hours.     It  is  eaten  with  cold  or  | 
melted  butter.  j 

I 
I 


LEMON.     (3)   Boil  in  water, 

in  a  closely  covered  sauce[)an,  two  large 
lemons  till  quite  tender ;  take  out  the  seeds, 
and  fx)und  the  lemons  to  a  paste ;  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
the  same  of  fresh  butter  beaten  to  a  cream, 
and  the  yolks  of  three  well-beaten  eggs;  mix 
all  together,  and  bake  it  in  a  tin  lined  with 
puff  paste;  take  it  out,  strew  over  the  top 
grated  loaf  sugar,  and  serve  it  upon  a  napkin. 

MACARONI.  (1)  Simmer  half  a 


JELLY.     Beat  to  a  light  cream 

ten  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  then  add  by  de- 
grees six  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  half 
a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  pounded ;  stir  in  two 
or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  rose  water;  beat 
to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  mix 
them  in  lightly ;  bake  it  five-and-twenty  min- 
utes in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste. 


JENETON.     Butter  a  mould, 

and  ornament  it  with  raisins  in  festoons,  or 
in  any  other  form;  line  it  with  sponge  bis- 
cuit, and  fill  it  up  with  a  mixture  of  ratafia 
and  sponge  biscuit,  then  pour  a  rich  custard 
over  the  whole,  and  let  it  stand  for  two 
hours,  adding  more  custard  as  it  soaks  into 
the  biscuit.  The  mould  being  quite  full,  tie 
a  cloth  over  it,  and  Iwil  it  for  about  an  hour. 

LEMON.   (1)  Peel  four  lemons 

thin;  boil  them  till  they  are  tender;  rub 
them  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  preserve  the 
fine  pulp.  Take  a  pound  of  Naples  biscuits, 
a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  and  pour  over  them  some  boil- 
ing milk  or  cream  in  which  a  stick  of  cin- 
namon has  been  boiled.  When  cold,  mix 
with  them  the  pulp  of  the  lemons,  and  eight 
eggs  well  lieaten;  sweeten  according  to 
taste,  and  if  you  choose,  add  brandy.  Edge 
a  dish  with  good  puff  paste,  put  in  the  mix- 
ture; gai-nish  the  top  with  strings  of  paste, 
14* 


pound  of  macaroni  in  plenty  of  water,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  till  it  is  tender ;  but 
take  care  not  to  have  it  too  soft ;  though  ten- 
der, it  should  be  firm,  and  the  form  entirely 
presei-ved,  and  no  part  beginning  to  melt  (this 
caution  will  serve  for  the  preparation  of  all 
macaroni).  Strain  the  water  from  it;  beat 
up  five  yolks  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs ;  take 
half  a  pint  of  the  best  cream,  and  the  breast 
of  a  fowl,  and  some  thin  slices  of  ham. 
Mince  the  breast  of  the  fowl  with  the  han»; 
add  them  with  from  two  to  thi-ee  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-grated  cheese,  and  sea- 
son with  pepper  and  salt.  Mix  all  these 
with  the  macaroni,  and  put  into  a  pudding- 
mould  well  buttered,  and  then  let  it  steam  in 
a  stewpan  of  boiling  water  for  about  an 
hour,  dnd  serve  quite  hot,  with  rich  gravy 
(as  in  Omelet). 

MACARONI.  (2)  Take  an  ounce 


or  two  of  the  pipe  sort  of  macaroni,  and 
simmer  it  in  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  bit  of 
lemon-peel  and  cinnamon,  till  tender;  put  it 
into  a  dish,  with  milk,  three  eggs,  but  only 
one  white,  some  sugar,  nutmeg,  a  spoonful 
of  almond-water,  and  half  a  glass  of  raisin 
wine;  lay  a  nice  paste  round  the  edge  of  the 
dish,  and  put  it  in  the  oven  to  bake.  If 
you  choose  you  may  put  in  a  layer  of  orange- 
marmalade,  or  raspberry-jam:  in  this  case 
you  must  not  put  in  the  almond-water  or 
ratafia. 


MARROW.     Put  into  a  mug 


PUDDINGS 


162 


PUDDINGS 


the  crumb  of  a  pound  loaf,  and  pour  over  it 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  milk ;  cover  it 
closely  for  an  hour;  cut  into  small  bits  half 
a  pound  of  marrow,  stone  and  cut  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  raisins,  take  the  same  quantity 
of  nicely-cleaned  currants,  beat  well  six  eggs, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  lemon-peel,  and  the 
same  of  nutmeg ;  mix  all  thoroughly  with  the 
bread  and  milk,  sweeten  it  well  with  bro\vn 
sugar,  and  bake  it,  widi  or  without  a  bor- 
der of  puff  paste  round  the  dish,  thi-ee-quar- 
ters  of  an  hour.  It  may  be  baked  in  a 
Dutch  oven,  and  after  baking  it  for  three- 
quartei-s  of  an  hour,  put  a  tin  cover  over 
tlie  top,  and  place  the  dish  upon  a  gridiron, 
over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  it  remain  for  fifteen 
minutes. 

MILLET.  Wash  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  seed,  boil  it  in  a  quart  of 
milk  with  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon-peel, 
and  stir  in,  when  a  liltle  cooled,  an  ounce  of 
firesh  buttei';  sweeten  with  brown  sugar, 
and  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four,  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  a  glass  of  wine 
or  spirits.     Bake  it  in  a  buttered  dish. 


MY.      Beat  up   the  yolks  and 

whites  of  tliree  eggs ;  sti-ain  them  through  a 
sieve  (to  keep  out  the  treddles),  and  gradu- 
ally add  to  them  about  a  quarter  pint  of  milk ; 
stir  these  well  together.  Rub  together  in  a 
mortar  two  ounces  of  moist  sugar  and  as 
much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  lie  on  a  shilling ; 
stir  them  into  the  eggs  and  milk ;  then  put 
in  four  ounces  of  flour,  and  beat  it  into  a 
smooth  batter ;  by  degrees  stir  into  it  seven 
ounces  of  suet  (minced  as  fine  as  possible) 
ahd  three  oimces  of  bread  crumbs.  Mix  all 
thoroughly  together  at  least  half  an  hour  be- 
fore you  put  the  pudding  into  the  pot.  Put  it 
into  an  earthen  pudding  mould,  that  is  well 
buttered.  Tie  a  cloth  over  it  very  tight; 
put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  tliree 
nours.  Half  a  pound  of  raisins  cut  in  half 
added  to  the  above,  will  make  a  most  admi- 
rable plum  pudding.  Grated  lemon-peel  is 
also  fine. 

Don't  let  the  water  cease  to  boil :  it  will 
spoil  the  pudding.  And  it  is  always  best 
that  puddings  be  mixed  an  hour  or  two  be- 
fore put  into  the  pot,  tlie  ingredients  get 
amalgamated,  and  the  whole  becomes  richer 
and  fuller  of  flavor. 

The  above  pudding  may  be  baked  in  an 
oven,  or  under  meat,  as  Yorkshire  pudding, 
only  add  half  pint  more  milk.  Should  it  be 
, above  an  inch  and  quarter  in  thickness,  it 
will  take  full  two  hours;  and  requires  care- 
ful watching;  for  if  tlie  top  gets  burned,  a 
bad  flavor  will  pervade  the  whole  pudtiing. 
Or,  butter  some  tin  patty-pans  or  saucers, 
fill  them  with  pudding,  and  bake  about  an 
hour  in  a  Dutch  oven. 


NASSAU.  Put  into  a  saucer- 
pan  the  whole  yolks  of  eight,  and  the  whites 
of  four  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf 
sugar,  and  one  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  stir  it 
over  a  slow  fire  for  nearly  half  an  hour ;  line 
a  dish  with  thin  puff  paste  and  lay  over  the 
bottom  a  tliick  layer  of  orange  mai-malade, 
and  then  put  in  the  jr\dding.  Bake  it  for 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

NEW  COLLEGE.  Haifa  pound 


of  fresh  beef  suet,  finely  minced,  the  same  of 
currants,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated 
bread,  and  of  pounded  sweet  biscuit,  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a  small  nutmeg  grated, 
an  ounce  of  candied  orange-peel  minced; 
mix  all  together  with  two  or  three  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  fry  them  in  butter  till  of  a 
light  brown;  shake  the  pan,  and  turn  them 
fi-equently  till  done  enough.  Serve  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar  sti'ewed  thickly  over 
them. 

NEWMARKET.      Put  on  to 


boil  a  pint  of  good  milk,  with  half  a  lemon- 
peel,  a  little  cinnamon,  and  a  bay  leaf;  boil 
gently  for  five  or  ten  minutes;  sweeten  with 
loaf  sugar ;  break  the  yolks  of  five,  and  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  into  a  basin ;  beat  them 
well,  and  add  the  milk:  beat  all  well  togeth- 
er, and  strain  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  or 
tamis:  have  some  inead  and  butter  cut  very 
thin ;  lay  a  layer  of  it  in  a  pie-dish,  and  then 
a  layer  of  currants,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is 
nearly  full ;  then  pour  tlie  custard  over  it, 
and  bake  half  an  hour. 


NEWCASTLE,  OR  CABI- 
NET. Butter  a  half  melon  mould,  or  quart 
basin,  and  stick  all  round  with  dried  cher- 
ries, or  fine  raisins,  and  fill  up  with  bread 
and  butter.  Sec.  as  in  the  above;  and  steam 
it  an  hour  and  a  half. 


NOTTINGHAM.      Peel  six 

good  apples;  take  out  the  core  with  the 
point  of  a  small  knife,  or  an  apple  corer, 
if  you  have  one ;  but  be  sure  to  leave  the 
apples  whole;  fill  up  where  you  took  the 
core  from  with  sugar;  place  them  in  a  pie- 
dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  nice  light  batter, 
prepared  as  for  batter  pudding,  and  bake 
an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

OATMEAL.      Sift  a  pound 


of  oatmeal,  chop  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  suet,  mince  some  onions,  and  mince  all 
together ;  season  well  widi  pepjier  and  salt ; 
half  fill  die  skins,  and  boil  and  dress  them 
as  directed  in  the  receipt  for  ox-blood  pud- 
dings. Some  people  think  a  little  sugar  an 
improvement. 

ORANGE.(l)The  yolks  of,  six 


PUDDINGS 


163 


PUDDINGS 


and  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  well  beaten ; 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange  marmalade, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  pounded, 
the  same  of  melted  butter ;  three  table-spoon- 
fiils  of  grated  bread,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  cream;  mix  all  well  together,  and  lake 
them  in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste. 

ORANGE.     (2)    Cut  In  half 


three  large  Seville  oranges,  squeeze  and 
strain  the  juice;  boil  the' skins  till  quite 
soft  in  a  good  deal  of  water,  pound  them  in 
a  mortar,  and  mix  them  with  nine  beaten 
yolks  and  four  whites  of  eggs,  nearly  a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  juice  of 
the  oranges,  and  half  a  pound  of  melted 
butter.  Bake  it  in  a  dish  lined  with  puff 
paste  for  half  an  hour. 


PEAS.      Put  a  quart   of  split 

peas  to  soak  for  two  hours  into  warm  wa- 
ter ;  boil  them  in  soft  water,  with  a  bit  of 
butter,  till  sufficiently  tender  to  press  through 
a  sieve ;  pulp  them,  and  add  tlie  beaten  yolk 
of  one  egg,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  an 
ounce  of  butter.  Tie  it  into  a  buttered  and 
floured  clolh,  and  put  it  on  in  boiling  wa- 
ter; boil  it  nearly  an  hour. 


PLUM.    (1)   One  pound  of  fresh 

beef  suet,  finely  minced,  one  pound  of  raisins 
stoned,  five  table- spoonfuls  of  flour,  five  of 
brown  sugar,  five  well-ljeaten  yolks,  and 
tln*ee  whites  of  eggs,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ; 
mix  all  the  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  boil 
it  in  a  cloth  for  four  or  five  hours.  Serve 
with  grated  loaf  sugar,  and  melted  butter 
poured  over  it. 

PLUM.    (2)    One  pound  of  rai- 


sins, stoned  and  cut  in  half:  one  jx)und  of  cur- 
rants, picked,  washed,  and  dried:  one  pound 
beef  suet  chopped  fine:  a  pound  of  grated 
bread,  or  half  pound  each  of  giated  bread 
and  flour :  eight  eggs  :  quarter  pound  of  su- 
gar: salt-spoon  of  salt:  table-s|X)on  of  cinna- 
mon and  mace  mixed:. two  grated  nutmegs: 
a  glass  each  of  wine  and  brandy :  quarter 
pound  of  sugar,  and  a  pint  of  milk.  Pre- 
pare all  the  day  before,  except  the  eggs,  that 
you  may  mix  them  the  next  moining:  it  re- 
quires six  hours  boiling.  Beat  the  eggs 
lightly,  then  put  to  them  half  the  milk  and 
beat  t(jgether.  Stir  in  the  flour  and  l)read ; 
tlien  the  sugar  by  degrees;  then  the  suet  and 
fruit;  the  fruit  to  be  well  floured  to  keep  it 
from  sinking.  Stir  hard.  Now  add  the 
spice  and  lifjuor,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
milk.  If  it  is  not  thick  enough,  add  more 
bread  or  flour;  but  if  there  be  too  miu^h 
bread  or  flour  the  pudding  will  be  heavy. 
Wet  the  cloth  in  boiling  water,  shake  it  out, 
and  sprinkle  it  with  flour.  Lay  it  in  a  dish 
and  pour  into  it  the  pudding      Tie  it  tight, 


allowing  room  to  swell.  Boil  six  hours. 
Wiien  you  turn  it  out,  stick  over  the  out- 
side blanched  almonds  in  slips  or  slips  of  cit- 
ron, or  both.  If  you  add  grated  lemon-peel 
to  liie  other  ingredients  it  will  much  improve 
the  pudding. 

PLUM.     (3)   One  pound  of  the 


best  raisins  stoned,  half  a  pound  of  currants 
well  cleaned,  one  pound  of  fresh  beef  suet 
finely  minced,  five  table-spoonfiils  of  grated 
bread,  three  of  flour,  two  of  brown  sugar, 
one  tea-spoonful  of  pounded  ginger,  one  of 
cinnamon,  and  one  of  salt,  six  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  three  wine-glasses  of  rum,  all  to 
be  mixed  tlioroughly  together  the  day  before 
it  is  to  be  boiled.  Boil  it  in  a  cloth  or 
mould  for  four  or  five  hours.  Serve  widi 
melted  butter,  or  the  following  sauce: — 
Heat  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sweet 
cream,  and  mix  it  gradually  with  two  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs ;  add  tliree  table-spoon- 
fuls of  white  wine,  brandy,  or  rum,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  sugar ;  season  with  grated 
nutmeg,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  quite 
hot ;  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 


PLUM.      (4)     Four  ounces  of 

apples  finely  minced,  the  same  quantity  of 
currants  cleaned  and  dried,  and  of  grated 
bread,  two  ounces  of  raisins,  stoijed  and 
minced,  two  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  half  a 
nutmeg  grated,  a  little  candied  orange  or 
lemon  peel,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  one  ounce 
and  a  half  of  melted  butter  just  warm;  mix 
all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  boil  it 
in  a  buttered  shape  for  four  hours.  If  the 
pudding  does  not  fill  the  shape,  add  a  slice 
of  <the  crumb  of  bread  at  the  bottom.  Serve 
with  a  sweet  sauce. 

— PLUM,  WITHOUT  EGGS. 

Haifa  pound  of  grated  bread,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  finely -minced  suet,  a  table-sjwonfid 
of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  currants  cleaned, 
radier  niDie  than  two  ounces  of  brown  sugar, 
a  glass  of  brandy;  mix  all  together  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  milk  to  make  it  into  a 
stiff  batter;  l)oil  it  in  a  cloth  for  four  hours. 
It  may  be  baked,  adding  half  a  pound  of 
stoned  raisins,  and  a  little  candied  oi"ange 
and  lemon-peel. 


POTATO.      (1)     Boil  three 

large  mealy  potatws,  mash  them  very  smooth- 
ly, with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  two  or 
three  tal)le-spoonfuls  of  thick  cream ;  add 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  a  little  salt,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  brown  sugar. 
Beat  all  well  togetliei-,  and  bake  it  in  a  but- 
tered dish,  fur  half  an  houi-  in  an  oven,  and 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  Dutch  oven 
A  few  currants  may  be   added   to  the  pud- 


PUDDINGS 


164 


PUDDINGS 


POTATO.     (2)    Boil  half  a 

pint  of  milk,  and  the  same  quantity  of  cream, 
witli  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  the  peel  of 
a  lemon;  strain  it,  and  stir  in  gradually 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  potato  flour,  mix  it 
very  smoothly,  and  add  six  well-beaten  eggs ; 
sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar;  stick  all 
round  a  buttered  tin  mould,  dried  cherries, 
or  stoned  raisins,  put  in  the  pudding,  and  put 
a  bit  of  buttered  linen  over  the  top,  and  then 
the  cover  of  the  mould ;  place  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water,  boil  it  for  an  hour  and 
a  half;  take  care  the  water  does  not  boil 
over  the  mould.     Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce. 


POTATO-FLOUR.    Boil  some 

cinnamon,  lemon-peel,  and  sugar,  in  a  quart 
of  milk;  strain,  and  stir  it  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  potato  flour  previously  mixed 
smooth  with  a  little  cold  milk ;  stir  it  till  it 
be  nearly  cold ;  add  four  well-beaten  eggs, 
a  glass  of  sweet  wine,  or  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  spirits,  and  a  little  marmalade.  Bake  it 
in  a  Dutch  oven. 

PRUNE.     Stew  a  pound   of 


prunes  with  halfa  pint  of  Port  wine,  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  large  table-spoon- 
ful of  brown  sugar;  break  the  stones,  and 
put  the  kernels  with  the  fruit;  spread  it 
over  a  sheet  of  puff  paste,  wet  the  edges,  and 
roll  it  iato  the  form  of  a  bolster ;  tie  it  fa-m- 
ly  in  a  buttered  and  floured  cloth,  and  boil 
it  between  two  and  three  hours.  Serve 
with  sweet  wine  sauce. 


QUINCE.     Take  a  sufiicient 

number  of  ripe  quinces  to  yield  a  pound  of 
pulp,  to  which  put  half  a  jwund  of  powder- 
sugar,  cinnamon,  and  ginger,  of  each  two 
drachms,  pounded;  mix  them  well.  Beat 
up  tlie  yolks  of  eight  eggs  in  a  pint  of  cream, 
add  the  quince,  &c.  stir  the  whole  togedier, 
flour  a  cloth,  tie  the  pudding  in,  and  boil  it. 


RATAFIA.  Pound,  with  a  lit- 
tle rose-water,  two  ounces  of  blanched  sweet 
almonds,  and  half  a  quartei-  of  a  pound  of 
ratafia  cakes,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
six,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  a  pint  of 
thick  cream,  two  glasses  of  white  wine,  and 
one  ounce  of  pounded  loaf  sugar.  Bake  it 
in  a  dish,  lined  with  puff  paste,  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 


REGENT'S.  Rub  an  earthen- 
ware mould  with  butter,  and  cover  the  lx)t- 
tom  with  bloom  raisins  stoned;  cut  thin 
slices  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  butter,  and  lay 
one  or  two  over  the  raisins ;  upon  that  put 
a  layer  of  ratafia  cakes,  then  one  of  bread 
and  butter,  and  raisins ;  do  this  till  the  mould 
is  nearly  full,  and  |)our  over  it  the  following 
mixtures:  a  pint  of  cream  well  sweetened 


with  jwunded  loaf  sugar,  and  mixed  with 
four  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  a  glass  of 
brandy,  and  two  table-spoonfi.»ls  of  rose-wa- 
ter ;  let  it  soak  one  or  two  hours ;  put  over 
the  top  a  piece  of  writing-paper  buttered, 
and  tie  over  it  a  cloth.  Boil  it  for  one  hour 
and  a  half,  and  ser\'e  it  with  wine  sauce. 

GROUND  RICE,  RICH.  (1) 


Stir  into  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground 
rice,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk ;  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  and  keep  stirring  it  till  it 
boils ;  then  add  three  ounces  of  melted  but- 
ter, the  same  quantity  of  sugar,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  lemon- 
peel;  mix  it  very  well,  and  when  cold,  add 
the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four,  and  the  white 
of  one  egg,  widi  a  glass  of  ratafia,  and  half 
a  one  of  orange-flower  or  rose  water ;  bake 
it  in  a  dish  lined  widi  puff  paste  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Before  serving,  strew 
over  tlie  top  grated  loaf  sugar. 

GROUND   RICE.    (2)    Mix 


till  quite  smooth,  with  a  small  tea-cupful  of 
ground  rice,  a  quart  of  good  milk,  stir  it 
over  die  fire  till  it  boils,  and  let  it  boil  for 
three  minutes ;  put  it  into  a  basin,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
six,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  with  a  tea- 
cupful  of  sweet  wine,  or  a  glass  of  spirits ; 
put  it  into  a  buttered  dish,  and  bake  it  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  for  one  hour  in  ^ 
a  Dutch  oven,  in  the  same  way  as  the  mar- 
row pudding  is  done.  Any  sort  of  preserve 
may  be  put  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and 
a  sweet  sauce  may  be  served  with  it. 

GROUND    RICE.     (3)    Boil 


in  a  pint  of  milk  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
flour  of  rice,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
rose  water,  and  half  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  stir 
it  till  tliick,  take  it  off,  and  mix  in  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butler,  half  a  grated  nut- 
meg, the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four,  and  the 
whites  of  three  eggs ;  sweeten  it  with  brown 
sugar,  pick  out  the  lemon-peel,  and  boil  it 
in  a  butteied  basin,  Avhich  must  be  complete- 
ly filled.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  with  a 
glass  of  white  wine,  boiled  in  melted  butter, 
and  sweetened  wiUi  brown  sugar. 

RICE,    BAKED    OR  BOIL- 


ED.  Wash  in  cold  water  and  pick  very 
clean  six  ounces  of  rice,  put  it  in  a  quart 
stewpan  three  parts  filled  with  cold  water, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  lioil  five  minutes; 
pour  away  the  water,  and  put  in  one  quart 
of  milk,  a  roll  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  bit  of 
cinnamon ;  let  it  boil  gently  till  the  rice  is 
quite  tender;  it  will  take  at  least  one  hour 
and  a  quarter;  be  careful  to  stir  it  every 
five  minutes;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
an  ounce  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter,  and  beat 


PUDDINGS 


165 


PUDDINGS 


ap  three  eggs  on  a  plate,  a  salt-spoonful  of 
nutmeg,  two  ounces  of  sugar;  put  it  into  the 
Iding,  and  stir  it  till  it  is  quite  smootli; 


line  a  pie-dish  big  enough  to  hold  it  with 
puff  paste,  notch  it  round  the  edge,  put  in 
your  pudding,  and  bake  it  three-quarters  of 
an  hour:  this  will  be  a  nice  firm  pudding. 

If  you  like  it  to  eat  more  like  custard, 
add  one  more  egg,  and  half  a  pint  more 
milk ;  it  will  be  better  a  little  thinner  when 
boiled ;  one  hour  will  boil  it.  If  you  like 
it  in  little  puddings,  butter  small  tea-cups, 
and  either  bake  or  boil  them,  half  an  hour 
Avill  do  either:  you  may  vaiy  the  pudding 
by  putting  in  candied  lemon  or  orange  peel, 
minced  very  fine,  or  dried  cherries,  or  tliree 
ounces  of  currants,  or  raisins,  or  apples 
minced  fine.  If  the  puddings  are  baked  or 
boiled,  serve  them  with  white  wine  sauce,  or 
butter  and  sugar. 


RICE.     Boil  a   quarter  of  a 

pound  of  rice  in  water  till  it  is  soft,  then 
drain  it  in  a  sieve,  and  pound  it  in  a  mor- 
tar; add  five  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  pro- 
portion of  sugar,  a  small  nutmeg,  and  half 
llie  rind  of  a  lemon  grated ;  work  them  well 
togedier  for  twenty  minutes,  and  add  a 
pound  of  cleaned  currants ;  mix  it  all  well 
and  boil  it  in  a  pudding  cloth  for  an  hour 
and  a  half.     Serve  with  wine  sauce. 

RICE,    WITHOUT   EGGS. 


Weigh  six  ounces  of  rice,  six  of  brown  su- 
gar, and  thiee  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter ; 
break  the  butter  into  small  bits ;  wash  the 
rice  in  several  waters ;  put  all  into  a  pudding- 
dish,  and  fill  it  up  witli  good  milk;  let  it 
soak  some  hours.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  nearly  two  hours,  and  as  the  milk 
wastes,  fill  up  tiie  dish  with  more,  till  the 
rice  be  swelled  and  soft ;  then  let  it  brown. 

RICH.     Put   into   a  saucepan 

four  ounces  of  fi-esh  butter,  six  ounces  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  six  of  marmalade,  and 
six  ounces  of  eggs,  well  beaten;  stir  all  one 
way  till  it  be  tlioroughly  warmed;  it  must 
not  be  allowed  to  boil.  Bake  it  in  a  dish 
lined  widi  puff  paste. 

SAGO.  (1)  Boil  five  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sago,  well  picked  and  washed,  in  a 
quart  of  water,  also  half  the  peel  of  a  lemon, 
and  a  stick  of  cinnamon ;  when  it  is  rather 
tliick,  add  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and 
sweeten  it  Avith  good  brown  sugar ;  beat  six 
yolks  and  three  whites  of  eggs,  pick  out  the 
lemon-peel  and  cinnamon,  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, and  bake  it  in  a  dish  with  or  witli- 
out  puff  paste. 


SAGO.     (2)  AVashhalfapound 


of  sago  in  several  waters  (vrarm) ;  then  pat 
it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  good  milk, 
and  a  little  cinnamon ;  let  it  boil  till  thick, 
stirring  frequently ;  pour  it  into  a  pan,  and 
beat  up  with  it  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ; 
add  to  it  the  yolks  of  eight,  and  whites  of 
four  eggs,  beaten  separately,  half  a  glziss  of 
white  wine,  sugar  according  to  taste,  and  a ' 
little  flour;  mix  all  together  well,  and  boil 
it.    Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 


■ —  SALT.      Take  a  pint  of  milk, 

four  dessert-spoonfiils  of  flour,  a  little  suet, 
shred  fine,  four  eggs,  salt,  and  pounded  gin- 
ger; mix  first  the  eggs  and  milk,  then  add 
the  flour,  &c. ;  put  more  flour,  if  necessary, 
to  give  it  consistence ;  tie  your  pudding  m 
a  buttered  cloUi,  and  boil  it  two  hours. 

SCOTCH.      Eight  well-beaten 

yolks  and  three  whites  of  eggs,  half  a  pound 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  melted  butter,  tJie  grated  peel  and  juice 
of  one  lemon;  mix  all  togetlier,  and  bake  it 
in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste ;'  turn  it  out 
to  serve,  and  strew  over  tlie  top  grated  loaf 
sugar. 

SIPPET.     Cut  a  small  loaf  into 

extremely  thin  slices,  and  put  a  layer  of  them 
at  tlie  bottom  of  a  dish,  tlien  a  layer  of  mar- 
row, or  beef  suet,  a  layer  of  currants,  and 
then  a  layer  of  bread  again,  &c.j,  and  so 
continue  until  the  dish  is*  filled;  mix  four 
eggs,  well  beaten,  with  a  quart  of  cream,  a 
nutmeg,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
pour  over ;  set  it  in  the  oven,  it  will  take 
half  an  hour  baliinsf. 


SHROPSHIRE.     Of  fresh  beef 

suet  finely  minced,  of  brown  bread  grated, 
and  of  brown  sugar,  one  pound  each,  one 
nutmeg  grated,  a  tea-cupful  of  brandy,  eight 
well-beaten  yolks,  and  four  whites  of  eggs ; 
mix  all  well  togedier,  and  l>oil  it  in  a  cloth 
or  mould  for  four  hours.  Serve  it  with  a 
sauce  of  melted  butter,  sugar,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  brandy. 


SPRING  FRUIT.      Peel  and 

well  wash  finir  dozen  sticks  of  rhubarb:  put 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  pudding  a  lemon,  a 
little  cinnamon,  and  as  much  moist  sugar  as 
will  make  it  quite  sweet;  set  it  over  a  fire, 
and  reduce  it  to  a  marmalade ;  pass  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  proceed  as  directed  for  the 
Boston  pudding,  leaving  out  die  lemon-juice, 
as  the  rhubarb  will  be  found  sufficiently  acid 
of  itself. 


SPEAKER'S.      Stone   and 

weigh  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  raisins. 
Rub  wiUi  butter  a  plain  oval  mould,  and 
etick  upon  it  some  of  the  raisins,  in  stripes 


PUDDINGS 


166 


PUDDINGS 


or  circles.  Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread 
witliout  the  crust,  dry  them  awhile  before 
the  fire,  butter,  and  cut  them  into  strips 
about  an  inch  and  a  quarter  wide  ;  line  tlie 
mould  witli  part  of  the  bread,  then  put  a 
layer  of  raisins,  and  sti-ew  over  a  table- 
spoonful  of  prjunded  loaf  sugar ;  add  a  layer 
of  tlie  bread  and  butter ;  fill  the  shape  nearly 
full,  putting  bread  and  butter  on  the  top. 
Mix  with  a  pint  of  good  milk,  the  weli-bea- 
ten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  one  and  a  half  of  rose-water,  and  a 
glass  of  brandy ;  pour  this  over  the  pudding, 
and  let  it  soak  one  or  two  hours.  Bake  it 
tluee-quarters  of  an  hour.  It  may  be  boiled 
by  steam  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

SQUASH.      One   good   squash 


stewed  and  well  bruised;  six  laige  apples 
stewed  tender;  mix  them  well  together; 
add  seven  spoonfuls  of  bread  ciiinih^ ;  half 
pint  of  milk;  two  spoonfuls  of  rose-water, 
two  of  wine ;  six  eggs ;  one  gi-ated  nutmeg ; 
salt  and  sugar  to  taste.  Beat  all  together  till 
smooth,  and  put  in  a  dish  lined  with  puft" 
paste.       Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

SUET,    WIGGY'S    WAY. 


Suet,  a  quarter  of  a  pound;  flour,  three  table- 
spoonflils;  eggs,  two;  and  a  little  grated 
ginger;  milk,  half  a  pint.  Mince  the  suet 
as  fine  as  |X)ssible,  roll  it  witli  tlie  rolling- 
pin  so  as  to  mix  it  well  with  the  flour ;  beat 
up  the  eggs,  mix  -them  with  the  milk,  and 
then  mix  all  together;  wet  your  cloth  well 
in  boiling  water,  flour  it,  tie  it  loose,  put  it 
into  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  an  hour  and  a 
(}uarter.  Mrs.  Glasse  has  it,  "  when  you 
have  made  your  water  boil,  tlien  put  your 
pudding  into  your  pot." 

SUET.  Mix  six  table-spoonfuls  of 


grated  bread  with  a  pound  of  finely-minced 
fresh  beef  suet,  or  that  of  a  loin  of  mutton, 
one  pound  of  flour,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt, 
six  well-beaten  eggs,  and  nearly  a  pint  of 
milk.  Boil  it  in  a  cloth  four  or  five  hours. 
Ser\'e  it  plain,  or  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

APPLE  SUET.    Of  finely  minc- 


ed fi-esh  mutton  suet,  grated  apples,  flour,  and 
brown  sugar,  six  ounces  each,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  four  well- 
beaten  eggs,  all  well  mixed  together;  boil- 
ed  for  two  hours,  and  served  witli  a  sweet 


SUET,    OR    DUMPLINGS. 

Chop  six  ounces  of  suet  very  fine ;  put  it  in 
a  basin  with  six  ounces  of  flour,  two  ounces 
of  bread  crurnljs,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ;' 
stir  it  all  well  together:  beat  two  eggs  on  a 
plate,  add  to  them  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
milk,  put  it  by  degrees  into  the  basin,  and 


stir  it  all  well  together;  divide  it  into  six 
dumplings,  and  tie  them  separate,  previously 
dredging  the  cloth  lightly  witli  flour.  Boil 
them  one  hour.  This  is  very  good  the  next 
day  fried  in  a  little  butter.  The  above  will 
make  a  good  pudding,  boiled  in  an  earthen 
ware  mould,  with  tlie  addition  of  one  more 
egg,  a  little  more  milk,  and  two  ounces  of 
suet.    Boil  it  two  hours. 

N.  B. — The  most  economical  way  of  mak- 
ing suet  dumplings,  is  to  boil  them  without  a 
cloth  in  a  pot  with  beef  or  mutton ;  no  eggs 
are  then  wanted,  and  the  dumplings  are  quite 
as  light  without:  roll  them  in  flour  before  you 
put  them  into  the  pot ;  add  six  ounces  of 
curi-ants  washed  and  picked,  and  you  have 
currant  pudding:  or  divided  into  six  parts, 
currant  dumplings;  a  little  sugar  will  im- 
prove them. 

SWEETMEAT.      Slice  thin, 

of  orange,  lemon-peel,  and  citron,  an  ounce 
each ;  lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  lin- 
ed with  a  light  puflf  paste;  mix  with  half  a 
pound  of  butler  melted,  the  yolks  of  seven 
eggs  and  the  whites  of  two,  and  five  ounces 
of  sugar ;  |X)ur  diis  over  the  sweetmeats,  and 
set  it  in  the  oven ;  it  will  take  rather  more 
than  half  an  hour  baking. 


TANSY.      Pour  over  a  thick 

slice  of  the  crumb  of  bread  a  quart  of  boiling 
milk;  cover  it  till  cold.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
four  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Pound 
some  tansy  with  two  or  thiee  leaves  of 
spinach;  squeeze  the  juice,  and  put  as 
much  of  it  as  will  make  the  pudding  a  good 
green  color,  a  glass  of  brandy,  half  a  grat- 
ed nutmeg,  and  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter; 
mix  all  the  ingredients,  sweeten,  and  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till 
it  be  hot.  Bake  it  in  a  buttered  dish  for 
half  an  hour.  Before  ser\  ing,  strew  grated 
loaf  sugar  over  the  top. 


TRANSPARENT.      Put  eight 

eggs  well-l)eaten  into  a  stewpan  with  half 
a  pound  of  sugar,  pounded  fine,  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  and  some  nutmeg  grated.  Set  it 
on  the  fire,  and  keep  (X)nstautly  stirring  till 
it  thickens.  Tlien  set  it  into  a  basin  to 
cool ;  put  a  rich  puff"  paste  round  the  edge 
of  the  dish ;  poi\r  in  die  pudding,  and  bake 
it  in  a  modeiate  oven.  It  will  cut  light 
and  clear.  Candied  orange  and  citron  may 
be  added,  if  you  tliink  proper. 

TAPIOCA.       Put  four  table- 


spoonfuls  of  tapioca  into  a  quart  of  milk, 
and  let  it  remain  all  night,  then  put  a  spoon* 
ful  of  brandy,  some  lemon-peel,  and  a  little 
spice;  let  them  boil  gently,  add  four  eggs, 
and  the  whites  well  l>eaten,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar.     Bake  it. 


PUDDINGS 


167 


QUA 


TREACLE.     Mix   together  a 

pound  of  stoned  raisins,  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  shred  suet,  a  pound  of  flour,  a  pint  of 
milk,  a  table-spoonful  of  treacle,  grated  gin- 
ger, and  pounded  spice;  when  well  stirred  up, 
tie  it  m  a  floured  cloth,  and  boil  it  four  hours. 


WEST  COUNTRY.  Mix,  with 

four  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  apples 
finely  minced,  the  same  quantity  of  grated 
bread,  and  of  well-cleaned  currants,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg ,  This  pudding 
may  be  eitiier  boiled  or  baked,  and  instead 
of  grated  bread,  four  ounces  of  whole  rice 
may  be  used,  which  must  be  boiled  in  milk, 
strained,  and  allowed  to  be  cold  before  being 
mixed  with  the  other  ingredients.  This 
puddding  is  boiled  one  hour  and  a  half,  and 
served  with  a  sweet  sauce. 


WHITE.     Boil   in   a  quart  of 

milk  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rose-water ;  add 
to  two  well-beaten  eggs,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  a  little  salt ;  stir  it  into  the 
milk,  and  if  not  thick,  dredge  in  a  little 
more  flour;  just  before  it  is  taken  off"  the 
fire,  put  in  a  bit  of  fresh  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut.  Serve  it  with  red  currant  jelly  up- 
on tlie  top  of  it. 


— WHORTLEBERRY.       This 

pudding  may  be  made  both  of  flour  and  In- 
dian meal.  Use  a  pint  of  milk,  some  mo- 
lasses, and  a  little  salt,  stirred  quite  stiff" 
with  meal,  and  a  quart  of  berries  mixed  in 
with  a  spoon.  Tie  the  bag  loose,  and  let  it 
boil  three  hours.  When  made  of  flour,  pre- 
pare it  like  batter  puddings,  rather  stiff  to 
keep  the  berries  from  settling.  Boil  two 
hours.     Tie  the  bagr  loose. 


WILTSHIRE.    Mix,  with  three 

well-beaten  eggs  and  a  pint  of  milk,  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  it  a  thick  batter,  and  a 
little  salt;  beat  it  for  some  minutes,  stir  in 
gently  a  large  tea-cupful  of  picked  red  cur- 
rants; boil  it  in  a  cloth  for  two  hours,  turn 
it  out  upon  the  dish  it  is  to  be  served  in,  cut 
it  into  slices  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
tliick,  but  do  not  separate  them ;  put  tetween 
each  a  thin  slice  of  butter,  and  some  brown 
sugar,  and  serve  it  hot. 


YORKSHIRE,  under  roast 

MEAT.  This  pudding  is  an  especially  ex- 
cellent accompaniment  to  a  sirloin  of  beef, 
— loin  of  veal, — or  any  fat  and  juicy  joint. 
Six  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  pint  of  milk,  so 
as  to  make  a  middling  stiff  batter,  a  little 
stifier  than  you  would  for  pancakes;  beat 
it  up  well,  and  take  care  it  is  not  lumpy; 
put  a  dish  under  the  meat,  and  let  the  drip- 


pings drop  into  it  till  it  is  quite  hot  and 
well  greased;  tlien  pour  in  the  batter;— 
when  the  upper  surface  is  brown  and  set, 
turn  it,  that  both  sides  may  be  brown  alike: 
if  you  wish  it  to  cut  firm,  and  the  pudding 
an  inch  thick,  it  will  take  two  hours  at  a 
good  fire. 

N.  B. — The  true  Yorkshire  pudding  is 
about  half  an  inch  tliick  when  done ;  but  it 
is  the  fashion  in  London  to  make  them  fiill 
twice  that  thickness. 

PUFFS.  (1)  Roll  out  puff  paste  nearly 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and,  with  a  small 
saucer,  or  tin  cutter  of  that  size,  cut  it  into 
round  pieces:  place  upon  one  side  raspberry 
or  strawberry  jam,  or  any  sort  of  preserved 
fruit,  or  stewed  apples;  wet  the  edges,  fold 
over  the  other  side,  and  press  it  round  with 
the  finger  and  thumb.  Or  cut  the  paste  into 
the  form  of  a  diamond,  lay  on  the  fi"uit,  and 
fold  over  the  paste,  so  as  to  give  it  a  trian- 
gular shape.     See  Paste. 

PUFFS.  (2)  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  pint 
of  milk,  boil  slowly,  and  stir  in  flour  till  it 
be  very  thick,  like  paste;  when  cold,  mix 
with  it  six  well-beaten  eggs,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  sugar,  half  a  nutmeg,  and  the  peel  of 
a  small  lemon  grated,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  brandy ;  beat  it  well  together  for  fifteen 
minutes,  and  when  quite  light,  drop  it  from 
a  dessert-s[X)on  into  a  pan  of  boiling  clarified 
suet  or  lard.  Serve  with  pounded  loaf  sugar 
strewed  over  them. 

PUFFS  OF  PRESERVED  FRUIT. 

Roll  out,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  good 
puff  paste,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  four  inches 
square;  lay  a  small  quantity  of  any  kind  of 
jam  on  each,  double  them  over,  and  cut  them 
into  square,  triangle,  or,  with  a  tin  cutter, 
half  moons ;  lay  them  with  paper  on  a  baking- 
plate;  ice  them,  bake  them  about  twenty 
minutes,  taking  care  not  to  color  tlie  icing-. 

PUNCH.     See  Justice's  Sirup. 


Q. 


QUAILS,  HUNTERS.  Put  the  quails 
in  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  butter,  a  bay- 
leaf,  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  pepper ;  set  them 
on  a  fierce  fire,  and  keep  shaking  them  until 
they  are  tender,  when  add  a  dessert-spoonful 
of  flour,  half  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  a 
little  stock,  when  tliis  is  thick,  and  quite 
hot  (witliout  boiling);  take  it  fi-om  the  fire 
and  serve. 

QUAILS,  SPANISH.    Mix  die  juice 


QUE 


168 


QUI 


of  a  lemon  with  some  butter,  salt,  and  pep- 
per; pick,  and  prepare  eight  quails,  stuff 
them  well  with  the  above  mixture;  then 
£isten  the  legs  to  the  body,  leaving  the  claws 
free;  truss  them  a  good  shape,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  on  slices  of  bacon,  cover 
them  also  with  slices,  add  a  gravy,  moisten- 
ed with  equal  portions  of  white  wine  and 
stock ;  set  tliem  on  the  fire  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  take  them  out,  drain  and  untie  tlie 
birds,  place  each  on  a  piece  of  fried  bread 
tlie  size  of  the  quail,  and  serve  with  a  clear 
Spanish  sauce,  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
glaze. 

QUAILS,  HOT  PIE.  Make  a  raised 
crust  in  the  usual  way,  spread  over  the  bottom 
of  it  some  farce  cuite  mixed  with  the  livers 
of  the  quails,  pounded,  and  some  sweet 
herbs ;  take  eight  quails,  take  out  the  thigh 
bones,  and  half  dress  them  in  a  little  butter 
and  sweet  herbs ;  when  cold,  stuff  each  with 
some  of  the  above-mentioned  farce,  arrange 
them  in  the  pie,  fill  up  the  intestines  and  the 
centre  with  the  remainder  of  the  farce,  season 
it  well,  lay  slices  of  bacon  over  the  quails ; 
wet  the  edges  of  the  paste  with  water,  cover 
the  pie  with  a  very  tliin  crust;  do  it  over 
widi  egg,  and  decorate  it  according  to  fancy. 
Put  it  into  the  oven  to  bake,  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  will  suffice.  When  done,  raise  the 
top  carefully,  remove  the  bacon,  take  off  all 
the  fat,  pour  in  some  good  giavy,  and  serve. 

QUAILS,  ROASTED.  Truss  the  birds, 
and  stuflf  them  with  beef-suet  and  sweet 
herbs,  both  shred  very  small,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg ;  fasten  them  to  a 
spit,  and  put  thevn  to  the  fire;  iKiste  with 
salt  and  water  when  they  first  Ijegin  to  get 
warm;  then  dredge  them  with  flour,  and 
baste  with  butter.  Put  an  anchovy,  two  or 
three  shallots,  and  the  juice  of  a  Seville  or- 
ange into  a  little  rich  gravy ;  set  it  on  the 
fire,  shake  it  about,  and  when  the  anchovy 
is  dissolved,  serve  it  with  the  quails.  Gar- 
nish the  dish  with  filed  bread  crumbs.  These 
birds  are  sometimes  roasted,  wrapped  first  in 
a  slice  of  bacon,  and  then  in  a  vine-leaf 
They  should  be  kept  at  a  moderate  distance 
from  the  fire. 

QUAILS,  STEWED.  Put  a  little 
butter  worked  up  with  flour,  and  a  few  green 
onions  into  a  stewpan;  when  brown,  put 
in  some  quails,  a  glass  of  wine,  the  same  of 
stock,  parsley,  some  more  small  onions,  a 
bay-leaf,  and  two  or  three  cloves ;  stew  these 
till  the  quails  are  sufficiently  done.  Garnish 
your  dish  with  cock's-combs,  artichoke  bot- 
toms, fried  bread,  &c. 

QUEEN'S  POTAGE.  Draw,  wash, 
and  clean  three  chickens,  or  young  fowls,  put 


them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley 
and  some  well-seasoned  boiling  veal  stock; 
let  it  stew  for  an  hour ;  take  out  the  fowk, 
and  pound  all  the  meat  to  a  fine  paste  in  a 
marble  mortar,  with  the  crumb  of  two  penny 
loaves,  previously  soaked  in  the  soup,  and 
the  yolks  of  three  or  four  hard  boiled  eggs; 
rub  all  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  to  the 
soup  stirring  it  well.  Put  a  quart  of  rich 
cream  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it  till  it  boils,  and 
then  mix  it  with  the  soup  and  serve  it  quile 
hot. 

QUEEN  OR  HEART  CAKES.  One 
pound  of  sifted  sugar,  one  pound  of  butter, 
eight  eggs,  one  pound  and  a  (jiiarter  of  flour, 
two  ounces  of  currants,  and  half  a  nutmeg 
grated.  Cream  the  butter,  and  mix  it  well 
with  die  sugar  and  spice,  then  put  in  half 
the  eggs,  and  beat  it  ten  minutes — add  the 
remainder  of  the  eggs,  and  work  it  ten  min- 
utes longer — stir  in  die  flour  lightly,  and  the 
currants  afterwards, — then  take  small  tin 
pans  of  any  shape  (hearts  the  most  usual), 
rub  the  inside  of  each  with  butter,  fill  and 
bake  them  a  few  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  on 
a  sheet  of  matted  wire,  or  on  a  baking  plate 
— when  done,  remove  them  as  early  as  pos- 
sible from  die  pans. 

QUEEN'S  DROPS.  Leave  out  four 
ounces  of  flour  from  the  last  receipt,  and 
add  two  ounces  more  of  currants,  and  two 
ounces  of  candied  peel,  cut  small — work  it 
the  same  as  in  the  last  lecoipt,  and  when 
ready  put  the  mixture  into  a  biscuit  funnel, 
and  lay  them  out  in  dro|)s  about  the  size  of 
half  a  crown,  on  white  i)aper, — bake  diem 
in  a  hot  oven,  and  when  nearly  cold,  take 
them  from  the  paper. 

QUINCE  COMPOTE.  Take  six 
quinces,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  core  them; 
scald  and  pare  them  neatly.  Put  some  clear 
sirup  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  the  juice 
of  a  lemon ;  when  hot,  add  the  quinces,  and 
give  them  a  boil  together;  drain  die  fruit, 
arrange  it  in  the  compotier;  leave  the  sirup 
to  thicken  a  little,  and  pour  it  over  die 
quinces. 

QUINCE  CREAM.  Take  four  or  five 
ripe  quinces,  and  roast  them,  but  not  to  sof- 
ten them;  pare,  core,  slice  them  thin,  and 
then  boil  them  slowly  in  a  pint  of  good 
cream,  widi  a  little  ginger;  when  tolerably 
thick,  strain  it,  add  sugar  to  your  taste,  and 
flavor  it  with  rose-water. 

QUINCE  JELLY.  Quinces  for  jelly 
ought  not  to  be  quite  ri|ie,  they  should,  how- 
ever, be  of  a  fine  yellow  color ;  take  off  the 
down  which  covers  them,  quarter,  core,  put 
them   into  a  saucepan,  widi  watei-  enough 


QUI 


169 


to  cover  them;  set  them  on  the  fire,  and 
vrhea  soft,  lay  the  pieces  on  a  sieve  to  drain, 
pressing  them  very  slightly;  strain  the  liquor, 
and  measure  it;  clarify,  and  boil  to  casse 
an  equal  quantity  of  sugar ;  then  take  it  off, 
add  the  liquor  to  it,  stirring  it  well;  when 
mixed,  put  it  on  the  fire,  still  stirring;  as 
soon  as  the  jelly  spreads  over  the  spoon,  and 
falls  from  it  like  molasses;  take  it  from 
tlie  fire,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  into  pots. 

QUINCES  TO  KEEP.  Gather  the 
fruit  quite  ripe,  but  perfectly  sound;  rub 
each  carefiilly  with  a  clean  cloth,  to  remove 
the  down ;  then  quarter,  and  put  them  into 
bottles,  corked  tight.  Give  them  half  an 
hour's  boil  in  the  bain-marie. 

QUINCE  MARMALADE.  Gather 
the  fruit  when  fiiUy  ripe,  and  of  a  fine  yel- 
low; pare,  quarter,  and  core  it.  Put  the 
quinces  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  water, 
set  them  on  the  fire  until  they  are  quite  soft; 
tlien  take  them  out,  and  lay  them  on  a  sieve 
to  drain;  rub  tliem  through,  weigh  the 
pulp;  boil  an  efjual  quantity  of  sugar  to 
petit  casse,  then  add  the  pulp,  stir  them 
together  ovei-  the  fire,  until  it  will  fall  from 
the  spoon  like  a  jelly;  the  marmalade  is 
then  fit  to  be  put  into  {X)ts,  and  when  cold, 
cover  them  close. 

QUINCES  TO  PICKLE.  Pare  and 
cut  half  a  dozen  quinces  into  small  pieces, 
and  put  them,  with  a  gallon  of  water,  and 
two  pounds  of  honey,  into  a  large  sauce- 
pan; mix  them  togetlier  well,  and  set  them 
on  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour:  strain  the 
liquor  into  a  jar ;  when  ([uite  cold,  wipe  the 
quinces  perfectly  dry,  and  put  diem  into  it; 
cover  them  very  close. 

QUINCES     PRESERVED    IN     WHITE 

JELLY.  Take  as  many  quinces  as  you 
may  require,  choose  them  sound;  pare, 
quarter,  and  core  them,  strewing  povvder- 
sug:ir  over  as  you  do  them,  filling  up  all  the 
holes  also  with  sugar;  throw  in  a  small  quan- 
tity of  water,  and  when  all  are  cut,  add  more 
water,  and  set  them  on  a  fierce  fiie  to  boil 
quickly.  As  soon  as  the  quinces  are  tender, 
and  the  sirup  clear,  add  some  apple-jelly, 
give  the  whole  one  boil,  and  then  pour  it 
into  gkisses ;  when  cold,  drain  off  the  sirup 
and  jelly,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and 
let  tliem  boil  as  quick  as  you  can ;  just  be- 
fore the  jelly  is  taken  off,  put  in  a  small 
quantity  of  musk,  or  any  other  ingredient 
you  may  wish  to  flavor  the  preserve  with, 
and  then  pour  it  in  the  glasses  again,  over 
the  quinces,  and  when  cold  cover  them. 
This  may  also  be  colored  red  by  adding  a 
email  quantity  of  prepared  cochineal;  in 
this  case,  the  jelly  should  be  red  too. 
15 


i»  tAis  spamsh  wa 


ki:^^ 


QUIN 

Pare  and  core  ten  pounds  of  quinces, 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  and  a  h'alJ 
of  water  and  two  pounds  of  fine  sugar 
them  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  they  begin 
to  dry,  moisten  them  widi  rose-water  and 
sack,  or  white  wine;  then  press  the  paste 
dirough  a  coarse  sieve,  add  two  pounds  of 
sugar,  a  little  orange-flower  and  rose  water. 
When  sufiiciently  done,  it  will  come  off 
clean,  if  dropped  on  a  plate;  then  set  it 
aside  to  cool.  Put  it  into  shallow  pots, 
strew  perfumed  comfits  over,  and  cover 
them  close. 

QUINCES,  SIRUP  OF.  Pare  and 
scrape  some  vei-y  ripe  quinces  into  a  linen 
cloth,  press  out  the  juice,  which  put  in  a 
very  warm  place,  or  where  it  is  exposed  to 
the  sun,  until  all  the  fecula  falls  to  the  bot- 
tom; then  strain  it  well,  and  for  every 
(juarter  of  a  pound  of  juice,  take  one  pound 
of  sugar ;  mix  them  together,  and  boil  the 
whole  to  perle;  take  it  off,  and  when  the 
sirup  is  nearly  cold,  it  may  be  bottled. 
Take  care  to  keep  the  bottles  well  corked. 

QUINCE  TART.  Take  some  preser- 
ved quinces,  make  a  sirup  with  some  sugar 
and  water,  of  which,  and  the  preserve,  take 
an  equal  weight,  and  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan;  boil,  skim,  and  then  put  in  the  fruit; 
when  tolerably  clear,  lay  the  quinces  in  a 
tart-dish  with  puff  paste  as  usual ;  cover  and 
bake  it ;  as  soon  as  it  is  done  raise  the  top 
gently,  pour  in  the  sirup,  ice  it,  and  serve. 

QUIN'S  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 

QUINTESSENCE    OF  ANCHOVY. 

The  goodness  of  this  preparation  depends 
ulmost  entirely  on  having  fine  mellow  fish, 
that  have  been  in  pickle  long  enough  (t.  e. 
about  twelve  montlis)  to  dissolve  easily,  yet 
are  not  at  all  rusty. 

Choose  those  that  are  in  the  state  they 
come  over  in,  not  such  as  have  been  put  into 
fresh  pickle,  mixed  with  red  paint,  which 
some  add  to  improve  the  complexion  of  the 
fish;  it  has  been  said,  that  others  have  a 
trick  of  putting  anchovy  liquor  on  pickled 
sprats;  you  will  easily  discover  this  by  wash- 
ing one  of  them,  and  tasting  the  flesh  of  it, 
which  in  the  fine  anchovy  is  mellow,  red, 
and  high-flavored,  and  the  bone  moist  and 
oily.  Make  only  as  much  as  will  soon  be 
used,  the  fresher  it  is  the  better. 

Put  ten  or  twelve  anchovies  into  a  mortar, 
and  pound  them  to  a  pulp ;  put  this  into  a 
very  clean  iron,  or  silver,  or  very  well 
tinned  saucepan;  then  put  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  spring-water  (we  prefer 
good  vinegar)  into  the  mortar;  shake  it 
round,  and  pour  it  to  the  pounded  anchovies. 


RABBIT 


170 


RABBIT 


set  them  by  the  side  of  a  slow  fire,  very  fre- 
quently stirring  them  together  till  they  are 
melted,  which  they  will  be  in  the  course  of 
five  minutes.  Now  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a 
drachm  of  good  cayenne  pepper,  and  let  it 
remain  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  min- 
utes longer ;  then,  while  it  is  warm,  rub  it 
through  a  hair  sieve,  widi  the  back  of  a 
wooden  spoon. 

The  essence  of  anchovy,  is  made  with 
double  the  above  quantity  of  water,  as  they 
are  of  opinion  that  it  ought  to  be  so  thin  as 
not  to  hang  about  the  sides  of  the  bottle ; 
when  it  does,  the  large  surface  of  it  is  soon 
acted  upon  by  the  air,  and  becomes  rancid 
and  spoils  all  the  rest  of  it. 

A  roll  of  thin-cut  lemon-peel  infused  with 
the  anchovy,  imparts  a  fine,  fresh,  delicate, 
aromatic  flavor,  which  is  very  grateful ;  this 
is  only  recommended  when  you  make  sauce 
for  immediate  use ;  it  will  keep  much  better 
without:  if  you  wish  to  acidulute  it,  instead 
of  water  make  it  with  artificial  lemon-juice. 


R. 


RABBITS.  (1)  Truss  your  rabbits  short, 
lay  them  in  a  basin  of  warm  water  for  ten 
minutes,  then  put  them  into  plenty  of  water, 
and  boil  them  about  half  an  hour;  if  large 
ones,  three-quarters;  if  very  old,  an  hour: 
smother  them  with  plenty  of  white  onion 
sauce,  mince  the  liver,  and  lay  it  round  the 
dish,  or  make  liver  sauce,  and  send  it  up  in 
a  boat. 

Obs. — Ask  those  you  are  going  to  make 
liver  sauce  for,  if  they  like  plain  liver  sauce, 
or  liver  and  parsley,  or  liver  and  lemon  sauce. 

N.  B. — It  will  save  much  trouble  to  the 
carver,  if  the  rabbits  be  cut  up  in  the  kitchen 
into  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and  die  head 
divided,  one-half  laid  at  each  end,  and  slices 
of  lemon  and  the  liver,  chopped  very  finely, 
laid  on  the  sides  of  the  dish. 

At  all  events,  cut  off  the  head  before  you 
send  it  to  table,  we  hardly  rememl)er  that 
the  thing  ever  lived  if  we  don't  see  tiie  head, 
while  it  may  excite  ugly  ideas  to  see  it  cut 
op  in  an  attitude  imitative  of  life;  besides, 
for  the  preservation  of  the  head,  the  poor  an- 
imal sometimes  suffers  a  slower  death. 

RABBITS.  (2)  If  your  fire  is  clear 
and  sharp,  thirty  minutes  will  roast  a  young, 
and  forty  a  full  grown  rabbit.  When  you 
lay  it  down,  baste  it  with  butter,  and  dredge 
it  lightly  and  carefully  with  flour,  that  you 
may  have  it  frothy,  and  of  a  fine  light  brown. 
While  the  rabbit  is  roasting,  boil  its  liver 
with  some  parsley ;  when  tender,  chop  them 
together,  and  put  half  the  mixture  into  some 
melted  butter,  reserving  the  other  half  for 


garnish,  divided  into  little  hillocks.  Cut 
off  the  head,  and  lay  half  on  each  side  oi- 
the  dish. 

Obs. — A  fine,  well-grown  (but  young) 
warren  rabbit,  kept  sometime  after  it  has 
been  killed,  and  roasted  widi  a  stuffing  in 
its  belly,  eats  veiy  like  a  hare,  to  the  nature 
of  which  it  approaches.  It  is  nice,  nourishing 
food  when  young,  but  hard  and  unwholesome 
when  old. 

RABBIT,  BROILED.  Take  a  couple  of 
young  rabbits,  cut  them  up,  and  put  them  to 
steep  for  a  few  hours  in  a  little  oil,  mixed 
with  parsley,  leeks,  a  few  mushrooms,  and  a 
clove  of  garlic,  all  shred  fine,  salt  and  pepper; 
roll  each  piece  of  rabbit  in  a  raslier  of  bacon, 
and  put  them,  with  a  part  of  the  seasoning, 
into  pieces  of  white  paper ;  butter  the  papers 
inside;  broil  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  vei"y 
slow  fire,  and  serve  hot  in  the  papers. 

RABBITS,  IN  A  FRICASSEE.  Take 
two  fine  white  rabbits,  and  cut  them  in 
pieces,  by  cutting  off  the  legs,  shoulders,  and 
back;  blanch  them  in  boiling  water,  and 
skim  them  for  one  minute;  stir  a  few  trim- 
mings of  mushrooms  in  a  stewpan  over  the 
fire,  with  a  bit  of  butter,  till  it  begins  to  fry, 
then  stir  in  a  spoonful  of  flour;  mix  into  the 
flour,  a  little  at  a  time,  nearly  a  quart  of 
good  consomme,  which  set  on  the  fire,  and 
when  it  boils,  put  the  rabbits  in,  and  let  them 
boil  gently  till  done,  then  put  them  into 
another  stewpan,  and  reduce  the  sauce  till 
nearly  as  thick  as  paste;  mix  in  about  half 
a  pint  of  good  boiling  cream,  and  when  it 
becomes  the  thickness  of  bechatnelle  sauce 
in  general,  squeeze  it  through  the  tammy 
to  the  rabbits ;  make  it  very  hot,  shake  in  a 
few  mushrooms,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a 
little  cream,  then  serve  it  to  table.  Rabbits 
may  also  be  preserved,  white  or  brown,  in 
the  same  manner  as  chickens. 

RABBIT,  MINCED.  Take  the  re- 
mains of  a  roasted  rabl)it,  cut  off  all  the 
meat,  and  mince  it  with  a  little  roast  mutton. 
Then  break  the  bones  of  the  rabbit  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  slice  of  butter,  some  shallots,  half  a 
clove  of  garlic,  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  basil; 
give  these  a  few  turns  over  the  fire,  then  shake 
in  a  little  flour;  moisten  with  a  glass  of  red 
wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of  stock,  and 
let  it  boil  over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour ; 
strain  it  off,  and  put  in  the  minced  meat, 
adding  salt  and  coarse  pepper;  heat  the 
whole,  without  boiling,  and  serve  hot:  gar- 
nish widi  fried  bread. 

RABBITS  IN  A  MINUTE.  'Cut your 
rabbits  into  pieces,  wipe  them  perfectly  diy ; 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 


RABBIT 


171 


RABBIT 


stewpan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  warm, 
put  in  the  rabbit  with  a  little  pounded  spice, 
salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg ;  let  the  fire 
be  brisk,  and  as  soon  as  the  pieces  are 
browned,  add  a  little  shred  parsley  and  shal- 
lots, leave  it  three  or  four  minutes  longer  on 
the  fire,  and  then  serve.  Ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes are  sufficient  to  cook  this  dish. 

RABBIT  PIE.  Cut  a  couple  of  young 
rabbits  into  quarters,  and  bruise  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  bacon  in  a  mortar,  with  the 
livers,  some  pepper,  salt,  a  little  mace,  pars- 
ley, cut  small,  and  a  few  leaves  of  sweet  ba- 
sil ;  when  diese  are  all  beaten  fine,  line  your 
pie-dish  with  a  nice  crust,  then  put  a  layer 
of  the  seasoning  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish, 
and  put  in  the  rabbits;  pound  some  more 
bacon  in  a  mortar,  mix  with  it  some  fresh 
butter,  and  cover  tlie  rabbits  with  it,  and 
over  that  lay  thin  slices  of  bacon;  put  on  the 
cover,  and  place  it  in  the  oven ;  it  will  be 
done  in  about  two  houi's ;  when  baked,  take 
off  the  cover,  take  out  the  bacon  and  skim 
off  the  fat,  and  if  there  is  not  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  gravy,  add  some  rich  mutton  or 
veal  gravy. 

RABBIT  PIE,  RAISED.  Cut  your 
rabbits  in  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  bit  of  fresh  butter,  lemon-juice, 
pepper,  salt,  parsley,  thyme,  shallots,  chopped 
very  fine,  and  a  little  pounded  mace.  When 
tlie  pieces  of  rabbit  are  about  half  done,  lay 
them  on  a  dish,  and  when  cold,  raise  the 
cinst;  put  light  forcemeat  at  the  bottom; 
the  rabbit  upon  it,  and  more  forcemeat  upon 
the  top.  Cover  it,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  to  bake  gently;  when  done,  take  off 
the  cover,  and  add  a  ragout  of  sweetbreads 
cock's  combs,  &c.,  and  serve. 

RABBITS,  PORTUGUESE.  Cutoff 
the  heads  of  a  couple  of  rabbits,  turn  the 
backs  upwards,  the  two  legs  stripped  to  the 
end,  and  tnissed'with  a  couple  of  skewers 
in  the  same  manner  as 'chickens,  the  wings 
turned  like  the  pinions  of  a  chicken ;  lard 
and  roast  them  with  good  gravy ;  if  they  are 
intended  for  boiling,  they  should  not  be  lard- 
ed, but  be  served  with  bacon,  and  greens, 
or  celery  sauce. 

RABBITS,  POTTED.  Take  two  or 
three  young,  but  full-grown  rabbits,  cut  them 
up,  and  take  off  the  leg  bones  at  the  thigh, 
season  them  well  with  pepper,  mace,  cay- 
enne, salt,  and  allspice,  all  in  very  fine  pow- 
der, and  put  them  into  a  small  pan,  placing 
them  as  closely  together  as  possible.  Make 
the  top  as  smooth  as  you  can.  Keep  out  the 
heads  and  carcasses,  but  take  off  the  meat 
about  the  neck.  Put  plenty  of  butter,  and 
let  the  whole  bake  gently.     Let  it  remain  in 


the  pan  for  two  days,  then  put  it  into  small 
pots,  adding  butter.  The  livers  should  also 
be  put  in. 

RABBIT  PRESERVED.  Having 
boned  a  rabbit,  lard  it  with  bacon  and  ham ; 
season  it  well  inside  and  out,  roll  it  up,  be- 
ginning with  the  legs,  make  it  tight,  and 
tie  it.  Put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  with  some 
oil,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  and  basil;  set  these 
on  the  fire  till  done  enough  (but  without 
boiling).  When  sufficiently  cooked,  take 
out  the  rabbit,  drain,  let  it  cool,  and  tliea" 
cut  it  into  small  pieces,  which  put  into  bot- 
tles; fill  them  with  oil  and  cover  with  wet 
bladders.  When  required  for  table,  take 
them  out,  cut  them  into  fillets,  and  place 
on  a  dish  with  shred  parsley  and  oil. 

RABBITS  PULLED.  Half  boil  your 
rabbits,  witli  an  onion,  a  little  whole  pep- 
per, a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  piece  of 
lemon-peel ;  pull  tlie  flesh  into  flakes ;  put 
to  it  a  little  of  the  liquor,  a  bit  of  butter  roll- 
ed in  flour,  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  chopped 
parsley,  and  the  liver  boiled  and  bruised; 
boil  this  up,  shaking  it  round,  and  serve. 

RABBITS,  ROASTED.  Truss  them 
for  roasting,  and  stuff  tliem  with  the  liver 
minced  raw,  grated  bread,  and  ham,  butter 
or  suet,  and  chopped  parsley,  seasoned  with 
a  little  lemon  thyme,  grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and 
pepper,  and  bound  with  an  egg  beaten.  Sew 
them  up,  and  roast  them  before  a  quick  fire, 
and  baste  them  with  buttei".  Serve  them 
with  gravy,  or  melted  butter  with  lemon 
pickle  in  it.  Two  will  take  an  hour  to 
roast.  They  may  also  be  fricasseed  or  fried, 
cut  into  joints,  with  plenty  of  fried  parsley, 
and  sen'ed  with  a  sauce  made  of  the  liver 
and  some  parsley  chopped,  and  mixed  in 
melted  butter,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
or  made  into  a  pie  the  same  as  chickens. 

RABBIT  SOUP.  Cut  an  old  rabbit 
into  pieces,  put  them  into  a  quart  of  water ; 
boil  it  well,  take  out  all  the  bones,  and  beat 
the  meat  in  a  marble  mortar,  as  for  potting; 
add  a  little  salt,  mace,  and  white  pepper,  to 
your  taste;  stir  it  into  the  liquor  the  rabbit 
was  boiled  in,  with  the  addition  of  a  very 
little  cream. 

N.  B.  The  meat  of  the  whole  rabbit  is 
too  much  for  one  quart;  quei"y,  would  it 
not  be  enough  for  twol 

RABBITS    STEWED,    WITH     A 

BROWN     SAUCE,     OR     WITH     A     WHITE 

SAUCE.  Wash  and  clean  the  rabbits  well, 
let  them  lie  for  two  or  three  houi-s  in  cold 
water,  cut  them  into  joints,  wash  and  diy 
them  in  a  cloth,  dust  them  with  flour,  and 
fiy  them  of  a  light  brown  with  butter,  and 


RAG 


172 


RAS 


Btew  them  in  the  following  sauce:  Brown 
Aree  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  minced  onion,  some 
pepper  and  salt ;  add  a  pint  of  gravy  and 
the  rabbits,  stew  tliem  till  they  are  tender, 
and  a  little  before  serving,  stir  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  ketchup.  When  it  is  wished  to 
dress  with  a  white  sauce,  the  rabbits  are  not 
fried,  hut  stewed  in  white  stock,  which  is 
seasoned  with  white  pepper,  and  salt,  and 
thickened  with  a  piece  of  butter  mixed  witli 
flour.  A  few  minutes  before  serving,  a  little 
cream  is  added,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
pickle. 

RADISHES  IN  BROTH.  Take  some 
young  radishes,  pick  and  scald  them,  cut 
them  into  halves  or  quarters  according  to 
their  size,  and  boil  tiiem  with  a  slice  of  ba- 
con in  some  stock.  In  a  little  time  take 
them  out,  drain,  and  put  them  into  another 
stew-pan,  with  consomme,  or  veal  gravy, 
and  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Let  them 
stew  gently  in  this  till  they  are  flavored,  of 
a  good  color,  and  tlie  sauce  pretty  thick ; 
then  serve  them. 

RAGOUT  POWDER.  Two  ounces 
of  truffles,  two  of  dried  mushrooms,  tlie 
peel  of  a  lemon,  and  the  same  of  a  Seville 
orange  grated,  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  half  an 
ounce  of  mace,  the  same  of  pepper,  and  one 
drachm  of  cayenne,  dry  them  all  well  before 
the  fire,  pound  them  to  a  fine  powder,  add 
one  ounce  of  salt,  sift  the  powder  through  a 
sieve,  and  keep  it  it  in  a  bottle  for  use. 

RAGOUT  OF  SNIPES.  Pick  six  or 
eight  snipes  very  nicely,  but  do  not  wash 
them ;  take  out  the  inside.  Roast  the  birds, 
and  cut  off"  all  the  meat  from  the  breasts,  in 
thin  slices;  pound  the  bones,  legs,  and 
backs,  in  a  mortar,  and  put  lliem  into  a 
stew-pan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  little 
flour,  and  some  well-seasoned  gravy ;  boil  it 
till  it  be  thick,  and  well  flavored  with  the 
game,  then  strain  it.  Cut  half  a  pound  of 
nam  into  thin  long  slices,  and  heat  it  in  a 
little  butter,  with  two  minced  shallots ;  put 
it,  with  the  breasts  of  the  snipes,  into  the 
strained  sauce,  and  let  it  boil.  Pound  the 
inside,  or  trail,  with  a  little  salt,  sj)read  it 
over  thin  bits  of  toasted  bread,  and  hold 
over  it  a  hot  salamander.  Put  the  ragout 
upon  tliis,  and  place  the  ham  round  it. 

RAGOUT  OF  COLD  VEAL.  Either 
a  neck,  loin,  or  fillet  of  veal,  will  furnish 
this  excellent  i"agout  with  a  very  little  expense 
or  trouble.  Cut  tlie  veal  into  handsome  cut- 
lets; put  a  piece  of  butter  or  clean  drip[)iiig 
into  a  frying-pan;  as 'soon  as  it  is  hot,  flour 
and  fry  the  veal  of  a  light  brown:  take  it 
out,  and  if  you  have  no  gravy  ready,  make 


some  as  follows:  put  a  pint  of  boiling  water 
into  the  frying-pan,  give  it  a  boil  up  for  a 
minute,  and  strain  it  into  a  basin  while  you 
make  some  thickening  in  the  following  man- 
ner: put  about  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a 
stewpan ;  as  soon  as  it  melts,  mix  witli  it  as 
much  flour  as  will  dry  it  up ;  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes  and  gradually  add  to  it 
the  gi'avy  you  made  in  the  frying-pan;  let 
them  simmer  together  for  ten  minutes  (till 
thoroughly  incorporated) ;  season  it  with  pep- 
per, salt,  a  little  mace,  and  a  wine-glassful  of 
mushroom  ketchup  or  wine ;  strain  it  through 
a  taniis  to  the  meat,  and  stew  very  gently 
till  the  meat  is  thoroughly  warmed.  If  you 
have  any  ready  boiled  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices, 
and  put  it  in  to  warm  with  tlie  meat. 

RAMEQUINS.  Take  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  Cheshire  cheese,  scrajjed,  the  same 
quantity  of  Gloucester  cheese,  and  beat  them 
in  a  mortar,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  the 
inside  of  a  French  roll,  boiled  in  cream  tilj 
soft ;  when  all  is  beaten  to  a  paste,  mix  it 
with  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  previously  beat- 
en, and  put  the  paste  into  small  paper  cases, 
made  rather  long  than  square,  and  put  them 
to  bake  in  a  Dutch  oven,  till  of  a  fine  brown, 
They  should  be  served  quite  hot.  You  may, 
if  you  think  proper,  add  a  glass  of  white  wine. 

RASPBERRY  CREAM.     See  Cream- 

RASPBERRY  DUMPLINGS.  Take 
some  good  puff"  paste,  roll  it  out,  and  spread 
raspben-y  jam  over  it;  roll  it  up,  and  boil  it 
rather  more  than  an  hour;  cut  it  into  five 
slices ;  pour  melted  butter  into  the  dish,  grate 
sugar  round,  and  serve. 

RASPBERRY  FRITTERS.  Grate 
two  Naples  biscuits,  or  the  crumb  of  a  French 
roll ;  put  to  either  a  pint  of  boiling  cream. 
When  this  is  cold,  add  to  it  tlie  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  well  beaten;  beat  all  well  together 
with  some  raspl)en-y  juice ;  drop  this  in  very 
small  quantities,  into  a  pan  of  boiling  lard; 
stick  them  with  blanched  almonds,  sliced. 

RASPBERRY   FLUMMERY.      Mix 

with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  vinegar  one 
pound  of  raspberries,  or  one  pound  of  pre- 
served raspberries,  let  it  boil  for  three  or 
four  minutes,  stirring  it  constanly;  strain 
it  tlirough  a  hair  sieve ;  dissolve  one  ounce 
of  isinglass  in  half  a  pint  of  water;  mix 
with  it  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pounded 
sugar,  add  it  to  the  strained  raspberries 
stir  it  all  well  together;  boil,  and  stniin  it 
through  a  bit  of  muslin,  and  put  it  into  a 
shape.     Turn  it  out  when  cold. 

RASPBERRY  JE}XY.     See  Jelhf, 


REL 


173 


RICE 


RASPBERRY  ICE.  Press  the  juice 
from  as  many  raspberrries  as  will  yield  a 
pound  and  a  half;  put  it  into  a  glazed  pan, 
and  leave  it  for  four  days.  Then  carefully 
raise  the  skin  that  has  formed  on  the  top  of 
it,  pour  off  the  juice  into  another  vessel; 
clarify  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  water,  add  the  juice,  and 
give  them  half  a  dozen  boils ;  if  not  suffi- 
ciently red,  put  in  a  root  of  orkanet,  which 
leave  in  till  of  the  proper  color;  strain  the 
preparation  through  a  sieve ;  when  cold,  put 
it  into  the  sabotiere,  and  freeze  it.     See  Ice. 

RASPBERRY  SPONGE.  Dissolve 
in  a  little  water  three-quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  isinglass,  add  to  it  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  the  same  proportion  of 
new  milk,  nearly  half  a  pint  of  raspberiy 
jelly,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Whisk  it 
well  one  way  till  it  becomes  thick,  and  looks 
like  sponge,  then  put  it  into  an  earthenware 
mould,  and  turn  it  out  the  next  day. 

RASPBERRY  TART.  Line  your 
dish  with  a  nice  puff  paste,  lay  in  sugai* 
and  fruit,  put  bars  across,  and  biike. 

RASPBERRY  TART  with  cream. 
Line  a  patty-pan  with  thin  puff  paste,  lay 
in  some  raspberries,  and  strew  some  very 
finely  sifted  sugar  over  them;  cover  them 
with  pufF  paste,  and  bake  it ;  when  done, 
cut  it  o|ien,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
in  which  has  been  previously  beaten  the  yolks 
of  two  or  three  eggs,  and  sweetened  with  a 
little  sugar;  when  this  is  added  to  the  tart, 
return  it  to  the  oven  five  or  six  minutes. 

RED  CABBAGE.  Get  a  fine  purple 
cabbage,  take  off  the  outside  leaves,  quarter 
it,  take  out  the  stalk,  shred  the  leaves  into 
a  colander,  sprinkle  them  with  salt,  let  them 
remain  till  the  morrow,  drain  them  diy,  put 
them  into  a  jai",  and  cover  them  with  the 
pickle  for  beet  roots. 

RED  MULLET.  Scrape  and  wash 
them,  fold  them  in  buttered  paper,  lay  them 
into  a  dish,  and  bake  them  gently.  The 
liquor  that  comes  from  them,  boil  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  dusted  with  flour,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soy,  two  of  essence  of  anchovy, 
and  a  little  white  wine.  Serve  the  sauce  in 
a  butter-tureen.  This  fish  is  called  the  sea 
woodcock,  fiom  being  dressed  with  the 
inside. 

RELISH  FOR  CHOPS,  &c.  Pound 
fine  an  ounce  of  black  pepper,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  allspice,  with  an  ounce  of  salt,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  scraped  horseradish,  and 
the  same  of  eschalots,  peeled  and  quartered ; 
put  these  ingredients  into  a  pint  of  mushroom 
15* 


ketchup,  or  walnut  pickle,  and  let  them  ste^ 
for  a  fortnight,  and  then  strain  it. 

Obs. — A  tea-spoonful  or  two  of  this  is 
generally  an  acceptable  addition,  mixed 
with  tlie  gravy  usually  sent  up  for  chops  and 
steaks,  or  added  to  thick  melted  butter. 

REMOULADE,  INDIAN.  Pound  the 
yolks  of  ten  hard  eggs  to  a  paste,  dilute  it 
with  eight  spoonfuls  of  oil,  put  in  one  at  a 
time,  and  continue  pounding  all  tlie  time; 
then  add  about  a  dozen  allspice,  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  saffron,  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  vine- 
gar, salt,  and  pepper ;  amalgamate  the  whole 
perfectly,  strain  it  through  a  bolting-cloth, 
and  serve  it  in  a  sauce  tureen.  This  sauce 
should  be  rather  thick. 

RENNET.  (1)  As  soon  as  the  calf 
is  killed,  take  out  the  stomach,  and  scour  it 
inside  and  out  with  salt,  after  it  is  cleared 
of  the  curd  always  found  in  it.  Let  it  drain 
for  a  few  hours,  after  which  sew  it  up  with 
two  large  handfuls  of  salt  in  it,  or  stretch  it 
on  a  stick  well  salted;  or  keep  it  in  the 
salt,  wet,  and  soak  a  bit,  which  will  do  over 
and  over  by  fresh  water. 

RENNET,  (2)  Prepare  the  maw  the 
same  as  in  the  above  receipt :  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  put  a  handful  of  hawthorn-tops,  a 
handful  of  sweet  briar,  a  handful  of  rose- 
leaves,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  forty  cloves, 
four  blades  of  mace,  a  sprig  of  knotted  mar- 
joram, and  two  large  spoonfuls  of  salt,  into 
two  quarts  of  fresh  spring  water;  let  them 
boil  gently  till  the  water  is  reduced  to  three 
pints,  then  strain  it  off,  and  when  only  milk 
warm,  pour  it  on  the  maw.  Slice  a  lemon, 
and  add  to  it ;  in  two  days,  strain  it  again, 
and  put  into  laottles.  Aromatic  herbs  may 
be  put  in  also ;  take  care  that  it  is  sufficient- 
ly salt.  If  the  maw  be  again  salted  for  a 
few  days,  and  dried  as  above,  it  will  be 
quite  as  fit  for  use  as  before ;  it  should  be 
kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  A  small  quantity 
of  the  liquid  is  sufficient  for  turning. 

RHUBARB  TART.  Let  the  stalks  be 
of  a  good  size,  take  off  the  thin  skin,  and 
cut  them  into  lengths  of  four  or  five  inches; 
lay  them  in  a  dish,  and  put  over  a  thin 
sirup  of  sugar  and  water ;  cover  with  another 
dish,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  for  an  hour 
upon  a  hot  hearth,  or  do  them  in  a  block- 
tin  saucepan.  As  soon  as  cold,  make  it 
into  a  tart ;  when  tender,  the  baking  the 
crust  will  be  sufficient;  or  you  may  cut  the 
stalks  into  little  bits,  the  size  of  gooseberries, 
and  make  your  tart  the  same  as  goosebory 
tart. 

RICE  BLANCMANGE.  Put  a  tea. 
cupful  of  whole  rice  into  the  lea^t  water 


RICE 


174 


RICE 


possible,  till  it  almost  bursts ;  then  add  half 
a  pint  of  good  milk  or  thin  cream,  and  boil 
it  till  it  is  quite  a  mash,  stirring  it  the  whole 
time  it  is  on  the  fire,  that  it  may  not  burn ; 
dip  a  shape  in  cold  water,  and  do  not  diy 
it;  put  in  the  rice,  and  let  it  stand  until 
quite  cold,  when  it  will  come  easily  out  of 
the  shape.  This  dish  is  much  approved  of; 
it  is  eaten  Avith  cream  or  custard,  and  pre- 
served fiuits ;  raspberries  are  best.  It  should 
be  made  the  day  before  it  is  wanted,  that  it 
may  get  firm.  This  blancmange  will  eat 
much  nicer,  flavored  with  spices,  lemon-peel, 
&c.,  and  sweetened  with  a  little  loaf  sugar, 
add  it  with  the  milk,  and  take  out  the  lemon- 
peel  before  you  put  in  tlie  mould. 

RICE,  TO  BOIL.  Wash  the  rice  jier- 
fectly  clean,  and  put  on  one  pound  in  two 
quarts  of  cold  water;  let  it  boil  twenty  min- 
utes, strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  be- 
fore the  fire;  shake  it  up  with  a  fork  every 
now  and  then,  to  separate  the  grains,  and 
make  it  quite  di-y.     Serve  it  hot. 

RICE  CASSEROLE.  Take  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  rice,  wash  it  thoroughly  in 
geveral  waters  (warm),  and  then  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  at  least  eight  inches  in 
diameter;  moisten  it  with  stock,  in  this  pro- 
portion ;  if  tlie  rice  lies  an  inch  thick,  let 
the  stock  come  two  inches  above  it,  and 
four  ladlefuls  of  fowl  skimmings ;  place  the 
saucepan  on  a  hot  stove;  when  the  rice 
boils,  set  it  on  the  side,  and  skim  it;  tiien 
put  it  on  hot  ashes,  cover,  and  let  it  boil 
slowly  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  stir  it, 
let  it  boil  as  before;  in  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  minutes,  stir  it  again ;  if  by  this  time 
tlie  rice  is  perfectly  soft,  take  it  off,  but  if 
not,  add  a  little  more  liquid,  and  continue 
Iwiling  until  it  is  so;  place  tlie  saucepan 
aslant  on  the  side  of  the  stove  that  the  fat 
may  drain  away  and  be  taken  off  easily. 
As  soon  as  the  rice  is  lukewarm,  work  it 
into  a  firm,  smooth,  paste,  with  a  spatula; 
it  can  hardly  be  worked  up  too  much,  as 
evei-y  grain  of  rice  ought  to  pass  under  pres- 
sure (if  necepsaiy,  add  more  stock,  a  very 
little  at  a  time).  When  the  paste  is  thus 
thoroiighly  worked  up,  form  your  casserole 
of  it,  first  laying  it  in  a  heap,  four  or  five 
inches  high,  and  seven  in  diameter;  do  it 
with  the  hand  as  you  would  a  raised  crust; 
make  the  ornaments  of  the  outer  surface  with 
the  point  of  a  knife,  or  by  carrots  cut  for 
the  purpose,  taking  care  that  the  decorations 
be  detached  fiom  the  mass  of  rice,  at  least 
sn  inch;  attention  to  this  particular  will 
not  only  add  to  tlie  beauty  of  the  form,  but 
t«  the  cf»lor  also,  as  the  raised  parts  will  be 
lightly  colored,  while  the  groimd  will  he 
quite  white.  When  properly  formed,  mask 
the  whole  surface  with  clarified  butter,  and 


place  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half, 
by  which  time  it  M'ill  be  of  a  fine  clear  yel- 
low. Take  off  the  top  of  your  casserole, 
clear  away  all  the  rice  from  the  inside  that 
does  not  adhere  to  the  crust  (which  ought  to 
be  very  thin),  and  mix  it  with  bechameMe, 
espagnole,  or  whatever  other  sauce  mav  be 
proper,  put  it  in  again,  and  then  fill  your 
casserole,  with  such  ragouts  as  your  fancy 
may  dictate;  glaze  the  surface  of  the  outer 
ornaments,  and  serve  it.  Water,  with  but- 
ter and  salt,  is  frequently  thought  prefeiable 
to  the  stock,  &c.,  as  the  rice  is  thereby 
rendered  much  whiter. 

RICE  CASSOLETTES.  The  rice 
prepared  as  above  may  be  put  into  smaller 
moulds,  those  called  dariole  moulds,  and 
it  should  be  quite  cold  before  it  is  turned  out, 
the  mince  or  whatever  is  put  inside  being 
also  cold ;  it  must  be  put  in  carefiiUy,  that 
none  of  it  may  mix  with  the  rice,  otherwise 
the  cassolettes  would  break  in  the  process 
of  frying;  for  the  same  reason,  the  dripping 
must  be  very  hot.  Fi-jing  is  the  best  and 
quickest  method  of  doing  them,  but  they  may 
also  be  browned  in  the  oven  as  the  casserole 
of  rice. 

RICE  CHEESE.  Boil  an  ounce  of 
rice,  thick  as  hasty  pudding,  in  rather  less 
than  half  a  pint  of  milk  (new)  ;  pour  it  hot 
on  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter,  the  same 
weight  of  sugar,  mixing  it  Avell  together;  let 
it  stand  till  cold;  then  add  one  egg,  and  the 
yolk  of  another,  and  a  little  white  wine. 

RICE  CREAM.  Mix  some  rice  flour 
with  half  a  glass  of  cold  milk ;  then  by  de- 
grees, add  a  pint  more,  also  cold,  and  put 
it  with  a  bay-leaf  into  a  saucepan,  set  it  on 
a  slow  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain 
and  flavor  it  with  orange-flower  water, 
sweeten  to  your  taste,  and  serve  it  hot.  It 
should  be  stirred  fre(juently  whilst  boiling; 
eggs  may  be  added  if  you  think  proper. 

RICE    CROQUETTES.      Wash    and 
scald  a  quarter  of  a  pound   of  rice,  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon, 
shred  small,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  crisjied  orange- 
flowers,  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  a  pint 
of  milk;  set  these  on  the  fire,  and  when  the 
rice  is  quite  soft,  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
stir  them  in  over  the  fii-e,  but  do  not  let  them 
boil ;   pour  the  preparation  on  a  large  tin  or 
slab,  spread  it  equally;    let  it  cool,  and  then 
I  divide  it  into  small  equal   parts;    roll   these 
I  into    balls,   dip  them   into  an   omelet,  roll 
I  them  in   bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them   in  a 
i  very  hot  pan.     As  soon   as  the   cn)f|uettes 
!  are"  of  a  nice  color,  drain,  sprinkle  them 
I  with  powder-sugar,  and  serve  them. 


RICE 


175 


RICE 


RICE  CUPS.  Sweeten  a  pint  of  milk 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  boil  it  with  a 
stick  of  cinnamon;  stir  in  sifted  ground 
rice  till  thick ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  add 
the  well-teaten  whites  of  three  eggs ;  stir  it 
again  over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
Uien  put  it  into  tea-cups  previously  dipped  in 
cold  water ;  turn  tliem  out  when  cold,  and 
pour  round  them  a  custard  cream  made  with 
tlie  yolks  of  the  eggs ;  place  upon  the  rice  a 
little  red  currant  jelly  or  raspberry  jam. 
This  dish  may  be  served  warm  or  cold ;  if 
cold,  raspberry  cream  or  custard  may  be 
pom-ed  round  it. 

RICE  CUSTARDS  WITHOUT 
CREAM.  One  tea-spoonful  of  rice-flour, 
a  pint  of  new  milk,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
a  table-spoonful  of  ratafia  (or  two  or  three 
laurel  leaves  boiled  in),  sugar  to  your  taste; 
mix  the  rice  very  smooth,  and  stir  it  with 
the  eggs  into  the  boiling  milk,  until  thick. 
Arrow-root  is  better  than  rice. 

RICE  FLUMMERY.  (1)  Boil  a  pint  of 
new  milk,  with  a  bit  of  lemon-peel  and  cin- 
namon: then  mix  just  sufficient  rice-flour, 
with  a  little  cold  milk  as  will  make  the 
whole  of  a  good  consistence,  sweeten  ac- 
cording to  taste,  flavor  with  a  little  pound- 
ed bitter  almond ;  boil  it,  taking  care  not  to 
let  it  burn ;  pour  it  into  a  shape  or  pint  ba- 
sin, taking  out  the  spice.  When  the  flum- 
mery is  cold,  turn  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  cream,  milk,  or  custard,  all  round,  or 
seiTe  with  sweet  sauce  in  a  boat. 

RICE  FLUMMERY.  (2)  Boil  in  a  quart 
of  milk  five  ounces  of  sifted  ground  rice,  half 
an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounded  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rose- 
water;  sweeten,  and  stir  it  till  very  thick, 
so  that  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  is  seen, 
and  then  put  it  into  a  mould;  when  quite 
cold  turn  it  out,  stick  over  it  sweet  almonds, 
cut  into  straws,  and  pour  round  it  some  thick 
cream,  and  a  little  white  wine  and  sugar 
mixed  with  it. 

RICE  FRITTERS.  Boil  the  rice  in 
milk  with  some  powder-sugar,  orange-flower 
water,  a  pinch  of  cinnamon  |)o\vder,  and  a 
little  butter;  when  (jiiite  soft  put  to  it  a 
liaison  of  yolks  of  eggi?,  pour  it  into  a  pan 
to  cool.  Make  your  preparation  into  balls, 
about  the  size  of  an  egg,  dip  them  in  egg, 
fry  them,  sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and 
serve. 

RICE,  GATEAU  OF.  Boil  a  quart 
of  cream,  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
rice;  when  tlie  latter  is  (|uite  soft,  dissolve 
in  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and 


then  put  in  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  let 
it  cool.  When  quite  cold,  stir  in  four  yolka 
and  four  whole  eggs,  more  if  the  rice  be 
veiy  thick ;  butter  a  mould  lightly,  put  the 
rice  into  it,  place  the  mould  in  hot  ashes,  so 
that  it  mav  be  completely  enveloped  in  and 
covered  with  them ;  in  half  an  hour  the  ga- 
teau will  be  done  enough ;  then  turn  it  out, 
and  serve.  If  you  wish,  you  can  make  a 
souffle,  by  whipping  the  whites  of  six  eggs; 
like  other  souffles,  m  this  case  it  should  be 
served  in  a  silver  dish.  In  putting  the 
preparation  into  the  mould,  be  careful  not 
to  fill  it,  as  the  rice  would  swell  and  run 
over  tlie  edge. 

RICE  MILK.  Allow  an  ounce  of  rice 
for  each  person,  wash  it  thoroughly  in  warm 
water ;  set  some  milk  on  the  fire,  and  when 
it  boils,  put  in  the  rice ;  continue  to  boil  it 
over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  often  for  two  or 
three  hours;  add  salt  or  sugar  according 
to  taste,  and  cinnamon. 

RICE  AND  MILK.  To  every  quart 
of  good  milk  allow  two  ounces  of  rice; 
wash  it  well  in  several  waters ;  pui.dt  with 
the  milk  into  a  closely-covered  s^cepan, 
and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire;  when  it  boils 
take  it  off;  let  it  stand  till  it  be  cold,  and 
simmer  it  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  be- 
fore sending  it  to  table;  and  serve  it  in 
a  tureen. 

RICE  PANCAKES.  Boil  half  a  pound 
of  rice  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  until 
quite  a  jelly;  as  soon  as  it  is  cold,  mix  it 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  eight  eggs,  a  little 
salt  and  nutmeg;  make  eight  ounces  of 
butter  just  warm,  and  stir  in  with  the  rest, 
adding  to  the  whole  as  much  butter  as  will 
make  ihe  batter  thick  enough.  They  must 
be  fried  in  as  small  a  quantity  of  lard  aa 
possible. 

RICE  PASTE.  Rub  three  ounces  of 
butter  well,  into  half  a  pound  of  ground 
lice,  moisten  it  with  water,  and  roll  it  out 
with  a  little  flour. 

RICE,  PYRAMIDS  OF.  Boilsome 
whole  rice,  make  it  up  into  the  form  of  pyr- 
amids about  three  inches  high,  or  press  it 
into  small  tin  frames  of  that  shape;  take 
out  part  of  the  rice  at  the  bottom,  and  fill  tlie 
sjjace  widi  sausage,  or  rich  forcemeat ;  place 
them  in  a  dish,  take  oft"  the  frame,  and  pour 
round  them  some  rich  brown  gravy. 

RICE  SAVOURY.  Carefiilly  wasli 
and  pick  some  rice;  set  it  to  stew  very 
gently  in  a  little  veal  or  rich  mutton  broth, 
add  an  onion,  a  blade  of  inace,  pepper,  and 
salt.     When  it  is  swelled  it  should  not  be 


RIS 


176 


ROLLS 


boiled  to  mash ;  put  it  to  diy  on  tlie  shallovv 
end  of  a  sieve  before  tlie  fire.  You  may 
serve  it  dry,  or  put  it  in  die  middle  of  a 
dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  round,  having  first 
heated  it. 

RICE  SNOW  BALLS.  Wash  and 
pick  half  a  pound  of  rice  very  clean,  put  it 
on  in  a  saucepan  widi  plenty  of  water ;  when 
it  boils  let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  drain  it  on 
a  sieve  till  it  is  quite  dry,  and  dien  pare  six 
apples,  weighing  two  ounces  and  a  half  each. 
Divide  the  rice  into  six  parcels,  in  separate 
cloths,  put  one  apple  in  each,  tie  it  loose, 
and  boil  it  one  hour;  ser\e  it  wiUi  sugai- 
and  butter,  or  wine  sauce. 

RICE  SOUP.  (1)  Carefully  blanch 
some  well  picked  rice,  then  drain  it  on  a 
sieve ;  put  about  a  tea-cupful  in  the  soup-pot, 
with  one  head  of  celery,  and  a  quart  of 
consomme,  and  let  it  simmer  by  the  side 
of  the  stove  for  three  hours.  If  it  thickens 
too  much  add  more  consomme,  season  with 
a  little  salt ;  take  out  the  celery,  and  send 
the  soup  to  table, 
fit 

Rltui:  SOUP.  (2)  Wash  your  rice 
well  in  warm  water,  changing  it  frequently ; 
then  put  the  rice  into  a  saucepan,  with 
some  good  stock;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and 
leave  it  to  swell  for  half  an  hour,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil ;  Avhen  the  rice  has  imbibed 
all  the  stock,  add  a  sufficient  quantity  to 
cover  the  rice,  cover,  and  boil  it  slowly  for 
two  hours;  in  the  meantime  broil  two  or 
three  slices  of  beef,  and  pep|)er  and  salt  them 
well;  when  of  a  nice  dark  color,  throw 
them  into  the  rice  soup,  to  which  tiiey  will 
impai-t  a  rich  flavor  and  a  fine  color. 

RICE,  WHOLE  IN  A  SHAPE. 
Wash  a  lai'ge  tea-cupful  of  rice  in  several 
waters,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  cold 
water  to  cover  it,  and  when  it  boils,  add 
two  cupfuls  of  rich  milk,  and  boil  it  till  it 
becomes  dry;  put  it  into  a  shape,  and  press 
it  in  well.  When  cold,  turn  it  out,  and 
serve  with  preserved  black  currants,  rasp- 
berries, or  any  sort  of  fruit  round  it. 

RISSOLES.  (1)  Cutpuffpastewitha 
round  tin  cutter,  about  three  inches  wide; 
have  ready  some  cold  fowl  or  veal,  Aery 
finely  minced,  and  seasoned  with  a  little 
pounded  garlic,  grated  lemon-peel,  pepper, 
salt,  and  mace,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  moistened  with  a  little  good  gravy. 
Put  some  of  the  mince  upon  a  bit  of  the 
paste,  wet  the  edges,  and  lay  over  it  anoth- 
er bit ;  press  it  gently  round  the  rim ;  brush 
them  all  over  with  a  \\ell-l)eaten  eg^,  and 
strew  over  them  sifted  bread  crumbs;  fry 
them  a  light  brown  in  boiling  clarified  beef 


dripping,  and  lay  them  upon  the  back  of  a 
sieve  before  the  fire  to  drain.  Ser^'e  them 
in  a  napkin.  The  paste  may  be  cut  of  the 
size  of  a  large  breakfast  plate,  then  the 
mince  put  into  the  middle  of  it,  the  edges 
wet  all  round,  and  gathered  up  into  the 
form  of  a  pear,  brushed  over  with  egg,  and 
strewed  over  with  bread  crumbs.  Served 
in  a  dish  garnished  with  firied  parsley. 

RISSOLES.  (2)  Mince  very  finely  some 
cold  roasted  veal,  and  a  small  bit  of  bacon; 
season  it  with  grated  nutmeg  and  salt; 
moisten  it  with  cream,  and  make  it  up  into 
good-sized  balls;  dip  them  into  the  yolks 
of  eggs  beaten  up,  and  then  into  finely -grat- 
ed bread.  Bake  them  in  an  oven,  or  fry 
them  of  a  light  brown  color  in  fresh  drip- 
ping. Before  serving,  drain  them  before 
the  fire  on  the  back  of  a  sieve.  Garnish 
with  fried  parsley. 

ROLLS.  (1)  Dissolve  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter in  one  pint  of  new  milk,  and  stir  it  into 
four  pounds  of  flour,  as  also  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  yeast,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  the 
well-bealen  whites  of  two  eggs ;  cover  the 
pan  with  a  warmed  towel,  and  set  it  before 
the  fire  to  rise  for  half  an  hour,  then  work  it 
one  way  for  fifteen  minutes;  form  it  into 
rolls,  place  them  upon  tins,  and  let  them 
lise  foi-  ten  minutes  before  putting  them  into 
the  oven. 

ROLLS.  (2)  Warm  an  ounce  of  butter  in 
half  a  pint  of  milk,  then  add  a  spoonful  and 
a  half  of  yeast  of  small  beer,  and  a  little  salt. 
Put  two  pounds  of  flour  into  a  pan,  and  put 
in  the  above.  Set  it  to  rise  for  an  hour; 
knead  it  well ;  make  it  into  seven  rolls,  and 
bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

ROLLS,  FRENCH.  (1)  Mix  rather  more 
than  an  ounce  of  coarse  salt  with  eight 
pounds  of  sifted  flour;  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle,  and  pour  in  about  half  a  pint  of 
good  yeast,  the  well-l)eaten  whites  of  four 
eggs,  and  as  much  new  milk  warmed  as 
will  mix  it  to  a  middling  stifl'ness;  clap 
and  work  it  down  one  way  for  hall' an  hour, 
but  do  not  knead  it;  cover  it  with  a  warm- 
ed towel,  and  let  it  rise  l^efore  the  fire  for 
half  an  houi-;  take  off  the  surface,  which 
soon  becomes  hard,  and  put  it  aside  to  be 
made  into  a  roll;  work  and  clap  the  dough, 
form  it  into  rolls,  place  diem  ujion  tins,  and 
let  them  rise  for  ten  minutes;  bake  them 
in  a  quick  oven. 

ROLLS,  FRENCH.  (2)  Rub  one  ounce 
of  butter  into  a  pound  of  flour;  then  add  to  it 
one  egg  beaten,  a  little  yeast  that  is  not  bit- 
tor,  and  a  siitficient  quantity  of  milk,  to  make 
a  dough  of  moderate  stifiiiess.     Beat  it  well, 


ROS 


177 


SAG 


but  do  not  knead  it ;  let  it  rise,  and  bake  on 
tins. 

ROLLS,  FRENCH.  (3)  Warm  three 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
water,  with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut, put  it  to  two  spoonfuls  of  thick  yeast; 
put  this  into  the  middle  of  rather  more  than 
a  quart  of  flour,  mix  the  whole  together  to 
the  consistence  of  a  batter-pudding,  adding 
more  flour  if  necessary,  to  make  it  the  proper 
thickness;  sti'ew  a  little  flour  over  it  from 
the  sides,  and  if  the  weather  is  cold,  set  it  at 
a  little  distance  from  the  fire ;  do  this  three 
hours  before  it  is  put  into  the  oven ;  when  it 
breaks  a  good  deal  through  the  flour  and  ris- 
es, work  it  into  a  light  paste  with  more  warm 
milk  and  water;  let  it  lie  till  within  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  of  setting  into  the  oven,  then 
work  them  lightly  into  rolls;  flour  a  tin, and 
drop  them  on,  handle  them  as  little  as  possi- 
ble ;  set  them  before  tlie  fire-  About  twenty 
minutes  will  be  sufficient  time  to  bake  them; 
put  a  little  salt  into  the  flour.  Rasp  the 
rolls. 

ROLLS,  SHORT,  HOT.  Dry  before 
the  fire  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour  to  make 
three  penny-rolls,  or  larger  if  you  like;  add 
to  it  an  egg  well  beaten,  a  little  salt,  two 
spoonfuls  of  yeast,  and  a  little  warm  milk; 
make  it  into  a  light  dough,  let  it  stand  by 
tlie  fii"e  all  night.  Bake  the  rolls  in  a  quick 
oven. 

ROSE-WATER,  double-distilled. 
The  rose  generally  chosen  for  this  purpose, 
is  the  common  pale  (single  or  double)  rose, 
but  the  white  rose  is  best  of  all.  Gather  the 
flowers  in  fine  weather,  two  hours  after  sun- 
rise; take  out  the  calix,  and  separate  the 
leaves,  pound  them  in  a  marble  moriar  to  a 
paste,  and  leave  them  five  or  six  hours  in  the 
mortar;  then  put  them  into  a  large  close 
cloth,  and  let  two  persons  wring  it  with  all 
their  strength.  Having  by  this  operation  ob- 
tained four  pounds  of  juice,  infuse  in  it  an 
efjual  weight  of  fresh  rose-leaves  for  twenty- 
four  hours;  at  the  end  of  that  time  put  the 
whole  into  the  alembic,  which  place  in  a 
sand-badi,  and  distil  it  according  to  rule. 
(See  Distilling).  When  you  have  collect- 
ed abnit  an  ounce  of  the  water,  unlute  the 
receiver,  and  if  that  which  issues  from  the 
etill  is  as  odoriferous  as  that  which  proceeded 
first,  continue  the  operation ;  but  if  not,  col- 
lect it  into  another  vessel,  as  tins  second 
water  is  only  single,  and  must  be  kept  sepa- 
rate from  the  first,  which  is  the  Essential 
Water.  Should  the  second  water  have  an 
unpleasant  smell  (caused  by  the  application 
of  too  much  heat),  expose  it  to  the  sun  for 
a  few  days,  covered  only  by  a  sheet  of  paper. 
The  utmost  care  is  necessary  in  distilling  this 


and  all  other  odoriferous  substances.  A  still 
more  powerful  essence  than  the  above  may  be 
procured  by  the  following  method: — Gather 
as  many  roses  as  will  afford  thirty  pounds  of 
leaves,  pound  these  with  four  pounds  of  salt; 
when  pounded,  place  the  paste  in  a  vessel  in 
layers  with  salt  between  each,  press  them 
closely,  cork  them  tight,  leave  the  vessel 
twelve  days,  and  tlien  distil  as  usual. 

ROSE-WATER,  SINGLE.  Put  four 
pounds  of  rose-leaves  into  a  pan,  with  three 
quarts  of  river  water,  and  leave  it  four-and- 
tvventy  hours ;  then  put  it  into  a  metal  alem- 
bic, and  distil  from  it  as  much  odoriferous 
water  as  you  can,  being  sure  to  stop  the  mo- 
ment you  observe  the  phlegm.  Take  off 
the  alembic,  throw  away  its  contents,  and 
rinse  it  out  well ;  after  this,  fill  it  to  two- 
thirds  with  fresh-gathered  rose-leaves,  on 
which  pour  die  above  drawn  rose-water; 
distil  this,  and  when  you  have  procured  as 
much  good  rose-water  as  it  will  yield,  let  the 
fire  go  out  gradually. 

ROUX.'  Put  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan,  shake  it  about  till  dissolved,  when 
add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sifted  flour,  to 
make  it  the  consistence  of  thick  houilli; 
then  set  it  over  a  fierce  stove,  and  stir  it  un- 
til it  begins  to  take  color,  when  make  a  good 
fire  of  cinders,  place  the  roux  on  it,  and  let 
it  stand  to  increase  in  color ;  it  ought  to  be 
of  a  clear  light  brown.  Set  it  by,  and  iKe  it 
as  occasion  may  require. 

ROUX,  WHITE.  Prepare  your  butter 
and  flour  as  above,  place  it  on  a  moderately 
lieated  stove,  stirring  it  constantly  till  veiy 
hot ;  be  careful  that  it  does  not  take  color  at 
all,  for  the  whiter  it  is  the  more  desirable. 

RUSKS.  To  three  pounds  and  a  half 
of  flour  allow  half  a  pound  of  butter,  the 
same  (]uantity  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and 
five  spoonfuls  of  yeast;  mix  the  flour  and 
sugar  togetiier;  melt  the  butter  in  two  pints 
and  a  half  of  milk,  and  mix  it  with  the  flour, 
tlien  add  the  yeast  and  one  beaten  egg; 
woik  it  well  together;  cover  it,  and  let  it 
stand  for  five  or  six  hours ;  take  it  out  of 
the  pan,  and  form  it  into  little  rolls;  place 
them  upon  tins,  and  let  them  rise  for  about 
»n  hour;  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and 
when  diey  become  brown,  cut  them  dirough 
the  middle  or  into  three  slices;  put  them 
again  into  the  oven  to  brown  and  crisp. 


SAGE  GARGLE.     Boil  quickly  in  a 
pint  of  water,  a  large  handful  of  sage  leaves  ; 


SAL 


178 


SAL 


cover  the  pan  closely,  and  when  reduced  to 
one-half,  sti-ain  it ;  when  cold,  mix  it  with 
tlie  same  quantity  of  Port  wine  and  of  vine- 
gar ;  sweeten  it  witli  honey,  or  with  brown 
sugai'.  The  decoction  of  sage  may  lie  used 
alone  cis  a  gargle,  or  witli  vinegar  and  hon- 
ey, without  die  Port  wine;  or  gargle  widi 
vmegar  and  water. 

SAGO.  Let  it  soak  for  an  hour  in  cold 
water,  to  take  off  the  earthy  taste;  pour 
tliat  off,  and  wash  it  well ;  then  add  more 
water,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  berries 
are  clear,  with  lemon-peel  and  spice.  Add 
wine  and  sugar  according  to  taste,  and  boil 
all  up  togetlier. 

SAGO  MILK.  When  well  cleansed, 
boil  it  slowly  with  new  milk,  A  small 
quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  a  quart  of  milk, 
it  swells  so  much,  and  when  done,  it  should 
be  reduced  to  about  a  pint.  It  requires 
neither  sugar  nor  flavoring. 

SALAD  MIXTURE.  Endeavor  to  have 
your  salad  herbs  as  fresh  as  possible ;  if  you 
suspect  tliey  are  not  "  morning  gatliered," 
they  will  be  much  refreshed  by  lying  an  hour 
or  two  in  spring  water;  then  carefully  wash 
and  pick  them,  and  trim  off  all  the  worm- 
eaten,  slimy,  cankered,  diy  leaves;  and, 
after  washing,  let  them  remain  awhile  in 
the  colander  to  drain:  lastly,  swing  them 
gently  in  a  clean  napkin:  when  properly 
picked  and  cut,  arrange  them  in  the  salad 
dish,  mix  the  sauce  in  a  soup-plate,  and  put 
it  into  an  ingredient  bottle,  or  pour  it  down 
the  side  of  the  salad  dish,  and  don't  stir  it 
up  till  tlie  mouths  are  ready  for  it. 

If  the  herbs  be  young,  fresh  gathered,  trim- 
med neatly,  and  drained  dry,  and  the  sauce- 
maker  lenders  patiently  over  the  following 
directions,  he  cannot  fail  obtaining  the  fome 
of  being  a  very  accomplished  salad-dresser. 

Boil  a  couple  of  eggs  for  twelve  minutes, 
and  put  them  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  for  a 
few  minutes;  the  yolks  must  be  quite  cold 
and  hard,  or  tliey  will  not  incorporate  with 
tlie  ingredients.  Rub  them  tlirough  a  sieve 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  mix  them  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  water,  or  fine  double  cream ; 
then  add  two  table-spoonfiils  of  oil  or  melted 
butter;  when  these  are  well  mixed,  add,  by 
degrees,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  or  powdered 
lump  sugar,  and  the  same  of  made  mustard : 
when  these  are  smoothly  united,  add  very 
gradually  three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar; 
rub  it  with  the  other  ingredients  till  thor- 
oughly incorporated  with  them;  cut  up  the 
white  of  the  egg,  and  garnish  the  top  of  the 
ealad  with  it.  Let  die  sauce  remain  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bowl,  and  do  not  stir  up  the 
salad  till  it  is  to  be  eaten:  we  recommend 
the  euters  to  be  mindful  of  the  duty  of  masti- 


cation, without  the  due  performance  of 
which,  all  undressed  vegetables  are  trouble- 
some company  for  the  principal  viscera,  and 
some  sure  even  dangerously  indigestible. 

SALAD,  WINTER.  Wash  very  clean 
one  or  two  heads  of  endive,  some  heads  of 
celery,  some  mustard  and  cresses ;  cut  them 
all  small,  add  a  little  shredded  red  cabbage, 
some»slices  of  boiled  lieet-root,  an  onion,  if 
the  flavor  is  not  disliked ;  mix  them  together 
with  salad  sauce.  In  spring,  add  radishes, 
and  also  garnish  tiie  dish  with  them. 

SALINE  DRAUGHT.  Salt  of  worm- 
wood, twenty  grains ;  lemon-juice,  a  table- 
spoonful;  water,  two  table-spoonfuls;  mag- 
nesia, twenty  grains ;  mix  it  in  a  tumbler, 
together  wiUi  a  little  pounded  sugar,  and  take 
two  or  tluee  of  these  in  tlie  day. 

SALLY  LUNNS.  Take  tluee,  quarts 
of  dried  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  yeast,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  melted  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  milk  to  dissolve  it,  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  a  little  salt:  make  tliese  in- 
gredients into  a  light  dough,  let  it  stand  be- 
fore the  fire  (covered),  for  an  hour  to  rise, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  The  above  may 
be  made  into  small  cakes. 

SALMON.  When  salmon  is  fresh  and 
good,  die  gills  and  flesh  are  of  a  bright  red, 
the  scales  clear,  and  the  whole  fish  is  stiff. 
When  just  killed,  there  is  a  whiteness  be- 
tween the  flakes,  which  gives  gi'eat  firnmess ; 
by  keeping,  this  melts  down,  and  the  fish 
becomes  richer. 

SALMON,  BAKED.  Clean  and  cut 
the  fish  into  slices,  put  it  in  a  dish,  and  make 
tlie  following  sauce: — Melt  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter, kneaded  in  flour,  in  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  gravy,  with  two  glasses  of  Port  wine,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  ketchup,  two  anchovies, 
and  a  little  cayenne.  Wlien  the  anchovies 
are  dissolved,  strain  and  pour  tlie  sauce  over 
the  fish,  tie  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over 
the  dish,  and  send  it  to  the  oven. 

SALMON,  BOILED.  Put  on  a  fish- 
ketde,  with  spring  water  enough  to  well 
cover  the  salmon  you  are  going  to  dress,  or 
the  salmon  will  neidier  look  nor  taste  well: 
(boil  the  liver  in  a  separate  saucepan). 
When  the  water  boils,  put  in  a  handful  of 
salt;  take  off  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  rises; 
have  the  fish  well  washed ;  put  it  in,  and  if 
it  is  thick,  let  it  boil  veiy  gently.  Sahnon 
requires  almost  as  much  boiling  as  meat; 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  a  ix)und  of 
fish:  but  practice  only  can  perfect  Uie  cook 
in  dressing  salmon.  A  quarter  of  a  salmon 
will  take  almost  as  long  boiling  as  half  a 


SAL 


179 


SAL 


one:  you  must  consider  the  thickness,  not  the 
weight:  ten  pounds  of  fine  full-grown  salmon 
.  will  be  done  in  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Lob- 
.«ter  Sauce. 

Obs. — The  thinnest  part  of  the  fish  is 
the  fattest ;  and  if  you  have  a  "  grand  gour- 
mand" at  table,  ask  him  if  he  is  for  thick 
or  thin. 

N.  B. — If  you  have  any  left,  put  it  into 
a  pie-dish,  and  cover  it  witli  an  equal  por- 
tion of  vinegar  and  pump  water,  and  a  little 
salt:  it  will  be  ready  in  three  days. 

SALMON,  BOILED  IN  WINE.  Sea- 
son with  pepper  and  salt,  some  slices  of  ba- 
con, fat  and  lean  together,  a  pound  of  veal 
cut  tliin,  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  beef;  put 
these  into  a  deep  stewpan,  then  a  fine  piece 
of  fresh  salmon  cut  out  of  the  middle,  then 
pour  in  just  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it, 
and  let  it  simmer  over  a  gentle  fire  till  the 
sahnon  is  almost  done,  then  pour  the  water 
away,  and  put  in  two  quarts  of  white  wine, 
with  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  some  thyme,  and 
sweet  marjoram,  picked  from  the  stalks ;  let 
them  stew  gently,  and  while  they  are  doing, 
cut  a  sweetbread  into  thin  slices,  then  cut  the 
slices  across,  and  stew  them  in  a  saucepan, 
with  some  rich  gravy ;  when  they  are  done 
enough,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  essence 
of  ham ;  take  up  the  salmon,  lay  it  on  a  dish, 
and  serve  with  tlie  sweetbread,  and  its  sauce 
poured  over. 

SALMON,  BOILED,  Berw^ick  re- 
ceipt. The  tail  of  the  salmon  is  first  cut 
off  near  and  below  the  last  fin,  the  fish  is 
tlien  cut  up  the  back,  keeping  the  bone  on 
one  side,  and  then  cut  up  into  pieces  of  half 
a  pound  each,  the  blood  well  washed  out  of 
the  fish  in  cold  water,  but  the  scales  not  to  be 
removed ;  a  pickle  to  be  made  of  salt  and 
water,  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg,  and, 
when  boiling,  the  fish  to  be  put  in,  and  boil- 
ed very  quickly  for  fifteen  minutes.  During 
the  boiling,  the  scum  to  be  taken  off  carefully 
as  soon  as  it  rises.  Sauces; — lobster, melt- 
ed butter,  and  anchovy  sauce. 

N.  B. — The  hardest  \vater  is  preferable 
for  boiling  salmon. 

SALMON,  BOILED,  receipt  by  an 
Aberdeen  FISHERMAN.  When  the  wa- 
ter is  hot,  put  salt  into  it,  and  stir  it  well ; 
taste  it ;  when  strong  enough  to  force  you  to 
cast  it  from  your  mouth,  it  will  do;  when 
the  water  boils  put  in  the  fish;  when  it  boils 
again,  give  twenty  minutes  for  a  salmon,  and 
sixteen  for  a  gristle.  When  salmon  is  cut 
in  slices  an  inch  thick,  let  them  boil  ten 
minutes.  Serve  with  it  a  sauce  tureen  of 
the  liquor  the  fish  was  boiled  in. 

SALMON  STEAKS  BROILED.    Cut 


the  steaks  from  the  thickest  parts  of  the  fish 
nearly  an  inch  thick;  butter  pieces  of  white 
paper;  fold  the  steaks  in  diem,  and  broil 
them  over  a  slow  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 
Take  off  the  paper;  serve  and  garnish  with 
plenty  of  fried  parsley.  Dressed  in  this 
way,  they  may  be  put  round  salmon  boiled, 
in  slices.  Sauces; — melted  butter,  lobster, 
or  slu-imp  sauce. 

SALMON,  FRESH  BROILED.  Clean 
the  salmon  well,  and  cut  it  into  slices  about 
an  inch  and  a  half  thick ;  dry  it  thoroughly 
in  a  clean  cloth ;  rub  it  over  with  sweet  oil, 
or  thick  melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  a  little 
salt  over  it:  put  your  gridiron  over  a  clear 
fire,  at  some  distance;  when  it  is  hot,  wipe 
it  clean ;  rub  it  with  sweet  oil  or  lard ;  lay 
the  salmon  on,  and  when  it  is  done  on  one 
side,  turn  it  gently  and  broil  the  other.  An- 
chovy sauce,  &c. 

Obs. — An  oven  does  them  best. 

SALMON  CAVEACH.  Boil  in  two 
quarts  of  vinegar  three  heads  of  shallots,  half 
an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper,  three  cloves, 
two  blades  of  mace,  and  a  little  salt.  Fry 
the  fish,  cut  in  slices,  of  a  light  brown  color 
in  fine  oil,  or  clarified  dripping;  put  them, 
when  cold,  into  a  pan,  pour  over  tlie  vinegar 
and  spices,  and  put  on  the  top  eight  or  ten 
spoonfuls  of  oil.  Soles  may  be  done  in  this 
way,  only  lay  over  tliem  sliced  onions  instead 
of  shallots. 

SALMON,  DRIED  KIPPER.     Cut  the 

fish  up  the  back,  and  take  out  the  bone ;  wipe 
it  veiy  clean  with  a  cloth ;  score  it,  and  put  a 
handful  of  salt  on  each  side,  and  let  it  lie 
for  three  days;  then  hang  it  up  to  dry,  and 
it  will  be  fit  for  use  in  two  days,  and  eats 
well  with  a  little  pepper  put  over  it,  and 
broiled. 

SALMON,  DRIED,  TO  DRESS.   Lay 

it  in  soak  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  broil 
it,  shaking  a  little  pepper  over  it.  Dried 
salmon  is  eaten  broiled  in  paper,  and  only 
just  warmed  through ;  egg  sauce  and  mashed 
potatoes  are  usually  served  with  it;  or  it 
may  l)e  boiled,  especially  the  bit  next  the 


SALMON,  PICKLED.     (1)      Cut  a 

salmon  into  two  or  three  pieces,  put  it  in 
a  fish-kettle,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  cover  it,  and 
plenty  of  salt ;  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil, 
set  it  aside  to  simmer  very  gently  until  done ; 
then  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  let  it  stand  in 
the  liquor  until  cold,  take  it  out,  lay  the 
pieces  close  together  in  a  tub  to  pickle,  and 
over  them  five  anchovies,  a  small  quantity 
of  pounded  saltpetre,  and  a  quarter  of  a 


SAL 


180 


SAL 


pint  of  sweet  oil ;  being  thus  prepared,  put 
the  top  of  the  salmon  liquor  into  a  stewpan, 
to  which  add  the  same  quantity  of  white 
wine  vinegar;  put  it  on  the  fire  to  skim, 
and  boil  it  for  two  or  three  minutes  ;  take  it 
off,  and  let  it  cool.  When  cold,  pour  it 
over  the  salmon  and  tie  it  down ;  in  three 
days  turn  it,  and  in  a  week's  time  it  will 
be  fit  for  use ;  this  is  merely  in  a  small  way ; 
a  great  quantity  being  done  at  once,  recjuires 
neither  oil  nor  anchovies.  Serve  garnished 
with  fennel. 

SALMON,  PICKLED.  (2)  Cut  the  sal- 
mon  into  pieces ;  boil  it  as  for  eating,  and  lay 
it  on  a  dry  cloth  till  the  following  day ;  boil 
two  quarts  of  good  vinegar  with  one  of  the  li- 
quor the  fish  was  boiled  in,  one  ounce  of  whole 
black  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  and 
four  blades  of  mace.  Put  the  salmon  into 
something  deep,  and  pour  over  it  the  prepar- 
ed vinegar  when  cold.  A  little  sweet  oil 
put  upon  die  top  will  make  it  keep  a  twelve- 
month. 

SALMON,  PICKLED.  (3)  To  a  quart 
of  liquor  the  fish  has  teen  boiled  in,  put  rath- 
er more  than  half  a  pint  of  good  vinegar,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper;  boil 
it,  and  when  it  is  cold  pour  it  o\'er  the  fish, 
previously  laid  in  a  deep  dish. 

SALM9N,  PICKLED,  TO  DRESS. 

Soak  a  piece  of  pickled  salmon  all  night 
in  pump-water ;  then  lay  it  on  a  fish-plate, 
and  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  three  spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar,  a  little  mace,  some  whole 
pepper  in  a  bit  of  muslin,  an  onion,  a  nut- 
meg bruised,  a  pint  of  white  wine,  a  buncli 
of  sweet  herbs,  some  parsley,  lemon-peel, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour ;  cover  the  stew|)aii  very  close,  and  let 
it  simmer  over  a  gentle  fire  for  a  cjuarter  of 
an  hour;  then  take  up  the  salmon,  lay  it  in 
a  dish,  keep  it  hot  Ijefore  the  fiie;  let  the 
sauce  boil  till  it  is  of  a  proper  consistence ; 
take  out  the  spice,  onion,  and  sweet  herbs, 
and  serve  tlie  sauce  over  the  fish. 

SALMON,  POTTED.  Take  off  the 
head;  cut  the  salmon  in  thick  slices;  wipe  it 
di"y,  but  do  not  wash  it ;  pound  half  an  ounce  of 
nutmeg,  mace,  and  cloves,  the  least  part  of 
cloves,  half  an  ounce  of  white  pepper,  and 
some  salt;  chop  fine  one  onion,  six  bay- 
leaves,  and  six  anchovies ;  season  ea<^h  slice ; 
put  it  into  a  pan,  wiUi  veiy  thin  slices  of 
butter  between  each  layer;  bake  it,  when 
well  done ;  drain  off  the  butter,  and,  when 
cold,  pour  over  some  clarified  butter. 

SALMON,  TO  SALT.  Cut  the  fish  up 
the  back,  and  cut  out  the  bone ;  wipe  it 
clean,  and  sprinkle  it  widi  salt;  let  it  lay  a 


night  to  drain  off  the  liquor;  wipe  it  dry; 
rub  on  it  two  or  three  ounces  of  pounded 
saltpetre;  cut  it  into  pieces;  pack  it  close  in 
a  pot  with  a  thick  layer  of  salt  between  each 
layer  of  fish.  If  the  brine  does  not  rise  in 
a  few  days,  boil  a  strong  one,  and  pour  it, 
when  cold,  upon  the  salmon,  which  must 
always  be  covered  with  it. 

SALMON,  STEW.  Clean  and  scrape 
the  fish ;  cut  it  into  slices,  and  stew  it  in  a 
rich  white  gravy.  A  little  before  serving, 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  soy,  one  of  es- 
sence of  anchovy,  and  a  little  salt,  some 
chopped  parsley  and  chi\es. 

SALMON,  SPICED.  Mix  togedier,  in 
the  proportion  of  one  third  of  salt-and-water  to 
one  pint  of  vinegar,  one  ounce  of  whole  black 
pepper,  and  one  ounce  of  cinnamon.  Cut 
the  salmon  into  slices,  and  boil  it  in  this; 
when  cold,  pack  it  close  in  a  pan,  and  pom* 
over  it  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  with  the 
spices,  so  as  to  cover  it  completely;  cover 
the  pan  closely,  to  exclude  tlie  air. 

SALMON,  MACKEREL,  SPRATS, 
HERRINGS,  &c.  picklkd.  Cut  the  fish 
into  proper  pieces ;  do  not  take  off  the  scales ; 
make  a  bi"ine  strong  enough  to  tear  an  egg, 
in  which  boil  the  fish;  it  must  be  boiled  in 
only  just  liquor  enough  to  cover  it ;  do  not 
oveiboil  it.  When  the  fisii  is  boiled,  lay  it 
slantingly  to  drain  off  all  the  liquor;  when 
cold,  pack  it  close  in  the  kits,  and  fill  them 
up  with  equal  parts  of  the  liquor  the  salmon 
was  boiled  in  (having  first  well  skimmed  it), 
and  test  vinegar ;  let  them  rest  for  a  day ; 
fill  up  again,  striking  the  sides  of  the  kit  with 
a  coof)er's  adz,  until  the  kit  will  receive  no 
more;  then  head  them  down  as  close  as  pos- 
sible. 

Obs. — This  is  in  the  finest  condition 
when  fresh.  Some  sjirigs  of  fresh-gathered 
young  fennel  are  the  accompaniments. 

N.  B. — The  diree  indispensable  marks 
of  the  goodness  of  pickled  salmon  are,  1st, 
The  brightness  of  the  scales,  and  their  stick- 
ing fast  to  the  skin;  2dly,  The  firmness  of 
the  flesh ;  and,  3dly,  lis  fine,  pale-red  rose 
color.  Without  these  it  is  not  fit  to  eat, 
and  was  either  stale  tefore  it  was  pickled, 
or  has  teen  kept  too  long  after. 

The  above  was  given  us  as  the  actual 
practice  of  those  who  pickle  it  for  the  Lon- 
don market. 

N.  B. — Pickled  salmon  warmed  by  steam, 
or  in  its  pickle  liquor,  is  a  favorite  dish  at 
Newcastle. 

SALOOP.  Boil  a  little  water,  wine, 
lemon-peel,  and  sugar,  togetter;  then  mix 
with  a  small  quantity  of  Uie  powder,  pre- 
viously rubted  smooth,  in  a  little  cold  water; 


SAL 


181 


SAN 


stir  the  whole  well  together,  and  boil  for  a 
few  minutes. 

SALPICON.  Tills  is  a  mixture  compo- 
sed of  various  articles,  such  as  sweetbreads, 
fat  livers,  tongue,  ham,  champignons,  truf- 
fles, &c.,  previously  dressed,  cut  into  dice, 
and  cooked  in  some  rich  sauce,  and  seasoned 
witli  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  cloves,  shallots, 
Bweet  herbs,  and  a  litde  butter ;  take  care 
tliat  all  the  articles  are  sufficiently  boiled  be- 
fore they  are  cut  up.  Many  things,  such  as 
beef-palate,  fowl,  cocks'-combs,  indeed  al- 
most any  article  you  please,  may  be  added  to 
the  above. 

SALT,  Is  as  Plutarch  calls  it,  sauce 
for  sauce. 

Common  salt  is  more  relishing  than  bas- 
ket salt ;  it  should  be  prepared  for  die  table 
by  drying  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  the  fire; 
then  put  it  on  a  clean  paper,  and  roll  it  with 
a  rolling  pin ;  if  you  pound  it  in  a  mortar 
till  it  is  quite  fine,  it  will  look  as  well  as 
basket  salt. 

*^*  Select  for  table-use  the  lumps  of 
salt. 

Obs. — Your  salt-box  must  have  a  close 
cover,  and  be  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

SALT,   SPICED.     Take  four  drachms 
of  grated  nutmeg,  the  same  of  cloves,  two 
of  white    pef>}Ter,  two  of  allspice,  two  of  I 
mace,    two   of  bay-leaf,  two  of  basil,  and  j 
two  of  thyme    (these   three   latter   articles  i 
should  be  dried  in  an  oven).     Put  these  all  j 
into  a  mortar,  and  jwund  them  to  an  iin[)al-  i 
pable  powder,  and  sift  it.     Take  a  pound 
of  fine  white  salt,  dry  it  thoroughly  in  an 
oven,  or  stove,  pound  it  ;is  fine  as  possible; 
sift,  and  mix  with  it  an  ounce  of  the  above 
mentioned    spices;  amalgamate  them  thor- 
oughly, keep  the  spiced  salt  in  a  tin  box, 
which  will  shut  perfectly  close.     Use  it  in 
the  following  proportion:   four  drachms  to  a 
pound  of  boned  veal. 

SALTING  MEAT.  In  the  summer 
season,  especially,  meat  is  fiecjuently  spoiled 
by  the  cook  forgetting  to  take  out  the  ker- 
nels; one  in  the  udder  of  a  round  of  beef,  in 
the  fat  in  the  middle  of  the  round,  those 
about  the  thick  end  of  die  flank,  &c.:  if 
these  are  not  taken  out,  all  die  salt  in  the 
world  will  not  keep  the  meat. 

The  art  of  salting  meat  is  to  rub  in  the 
salt  thoroughly  and  evenly  into  every  part, 
and  to  fill  all  the  holes  full  of  salt  where  the 
kernels  were  taken  out,  and  where  die  butch- 
er's skewers  were. 

A  round  of  beef  of  25  pounds  will  take  a 

pound  and  a  half  of  salt  to  be  rubbed  in  all 

at  first,  and  requires  to  be  turned  and  rubbed 

every  day  with  the  brine;  it  will  be  ready 

16 


for  dressing  in  four  or  five  days,  if  you  do 
not  wish  it  very  salt. 

In  summer,  the  sooner  meat  is  salted  after 
it  is  killed,  the  better;  and  care  must  be 
taken  to  defend  it  from  the  flies. 

In  minter,  it  will  eat  the  shorter  and 
tenderer,  if  kept  a  few  days  (according  to 
the  temperature  of  the  weather)  until  its 
fibre  has  become  short  and  tender,  as  these 
changes  do  not  take  place  after  it  has  been 
acted  upon  by  the  salt. 

In  frosty  weather,  take  care  the  meat  is 
not  frozen,  and  warm  the  salt  in  a  frying- 
pan.  The  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
equally  unfavorable  for  the  process  of  salting. 
In  the  former,  the  meat  changes  before  the 
salt  can  affect  it:  in  the  latter,  it  is  so  har- 
dened, and  its  juices  are  so  congealed,  that 
die  salt  cannot  penetrate  it. 

If  you  wish  it  red,  rub  it  first  with  salt- 
petre, in  the  proportion  of  half  an  ounce,  and 
die  like  quantity  of  moist  sugar,  to  a  pound 
of  common  salt. 

You  may  imprecate  meat  with  a  very 
agreeable  vegetable  flavor,  by  pounding  some 
sweet  herbs,  and  an  onion  with  the  salt. 
You  may  make  it  still  more  relishing  by  ad- 
ding a  litUe  ZEST  or  savory  spice. 

SALT  PORK,  BOILED.     See  Bacon. 

SAMPHIRE,  TO  DRY,  OR  PRE- 
SERVE. Take  it  in  bunches  as  it  grows ; 
set  a  large  deep  stewpan  full  of  water  on  the 
fire;  as  soon  as  it  boils,  throw  in  a  little 
salt,  and  put  in  the  samphire;  when  it  looks 
of  a  fine  green,  remove  the  pan  directly  from 
the  file,  and  take  out  the  samphire  with  a 
fork;  lay  it  on  sieves  to  drain;  when  cold, 
lay  it  on  earthen  plates,  strew  sugar  well 
over  it,  next  day  turn  (hem  on  a  sieve,  and 
strew  it  again  with  sugar,  keep  turning  dai- 
ly until  it  is  dry;  take  care  the  stove  is  not 
too  hot. 

SAMPHIRE,  TO  PICKLE.  Lay  some 
samphire  that  is  green  in  a  pan,  sprinkle 
over  it  two  or  three  handfuls  of  salt,  and 
cover  it  with  spring  water,  and  let  it  lay  for 
twenty-four  hours ;  then  put  it  into  a  large 
brass  saucepan;  throw  in  a  handful  of  salt; 
cover  the  pan  close,  and  set  it  over  a  very 
slow  fire;  let  it  stand  till  it  is  quite  green, 
and  crisp ;  then  take  it  off",  for  if  it  becomes 
soft  it  is  spoiled ;  put  it  into  a  jar,  cover  it 
close,  and  when  it  is  cold,  tie  it  down. 

SANDWICHES  FOR  TRAVEL- 
LERS. Spread  butter,  very  thinly,  upon 
the  upper  part  of  a  stale  loaf  of  bread  cut 
very  smooth,  and  then  cut  off" the  slice;  now 
cut  off"  another  thin  slice,  but  spread  it  with 
butter  on  the  under  side,  without  which  pre- 
caution tlie  two  slices  of  bread  will  not  fit 


SAUCES 


182 


SAUCES 


one  another.  Next  take  some  cold  heeC,  or 
ham,  and  cut  it  into  very  minute  particles. 
Sprinkle  tliese  tliickly  over  the  butter,  and, 
having  added  a  little  mustard,  put  the  slices 
face  to  face,  and  press  tliem  together.  Last- 
ly, cut  the  whole  into  four  equal  portions, 
each  of  w  hich  is  to  l^e  vv'rapiied  in  a  separate 
piece  of  paper. 

SANDWICHES.  (1)  Cut  some  bread 
into  thin  slices,  pare  off  the  crust,  and  spread 
a  little  butter  on  them ;  cut  them  nicely  into 
oblong  pieces,  put  between  each  some  bits 
of  fowl,  and  then  thin  bits  of  ham,  both  nice- 
ly trimmed;  add  a  little  mustard  and  salt. 
Any  cold  roasted  or  potted  meat  may  be  used. 
Serve  them  for  luncheon,  garnished  with 
curled  parsley. 

SANDWICHES,  (2)  Properly  prepai- 
ed,  are  an  elegant  and  convenient  luncheon 
or  supper,  but  have  got  out  of  fashion,  from 
the  bad  manner  in  which  they  are  common- 
ly made :  to  cut  the  bread  neatly  with  a 
sharp  knife  seems  to  be  considered  the  only 
essential,  and  the  lining  is  composed  of  any 
offal  odds  and  ends,  tliat  cannot  be  sent  to 
table  in  any  other  form.  Whatever  is  used 
must  be  carefully  trimmed  fiom  every  bit  of 
skin,  gristle,  &c.  and  nothing  introduced 
but  what  you  are  absolutely  certain  will  be 
acceptable  to  the  mouth. 

SANDWICHES,  CAKE.  Cut  a  sponge 
cake,  a  few  days  old,  as  for  bread  sand- 
wiches, and  spread  strawberiy  jam  or  cur- 
rant jelly  over  them. 

SAUCE.  (1)  Few  things  require  more 
care  than  making  sauces,  as  most  of  them 
should  be  stirred  constantly,  the  whole  atten- 
tion should  be  directed  to  them ;  the  better 
way  therefore,  is  to  prepare  the  sauces  before 
cooking  those  articles  which  demand  equal 
care ;  they  may  be  kept  hot  in  the  bain- 
marie. 

Butter,  and  those  sauces  containing  eggs, 
ought  never  to  boil. 

The  dnckest  stewpans  should  be  used  for 
making  sauces,  and  wooden-spoons  used 
for  stirring  them. 

SAUCE.  (2)  Mix  togetlier  a  pint  of 
vinegar,  two  shallots  or  heads  of  garlic,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  cayenne,  three  large  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Indian  soy  or  mushroom  ketch- 
up, and  two  of  walnut  pickle.  Let  it  stand 
a  week,  shaking  it  daily;  strain,  and  bottle 
it  for  use. 


FOR  ANY  SORT  OF  MEAT. 

Boil  and  strain  three  table-spoon fu is  of  gra- 
vy, two  of  vinegar,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  large  sliced  onion. 


ANCHOVY.  Pound  three  an- 
chovies in  a  mortar  with  a  little  bit  of  but- 
ter; rub  it  through  a  double  hair  sieve  with 
tlie  back  of  a  wooden  spoon,  and  stir  it  into 
almost  half  a  pint  of  melted  bulter  ;  or  stir 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy. 
To  the  above,  many  cooks  add  lemon-juice 
and  cayenne. 

APPLE.     (1)     Pare,  core,  and 

slice  some  apples ;  boil  them  in  water,  widi 
a  bit  of  lemon-peel ;  when  tender,  mash  them ; 
add  to  tliem  a  bit  of  butter  tl>e  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  some  brown  sugar.  Heat,  and 
serve  in  a  sauce-tureen.  / 


APPLE.     (2)     Pare   and   core 

three  good-sized  baking  apples;  put  them 
into  a  well-tinned  pint  saucepan,  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water;  cover  tlie 
saucepan  close,  and  set  it  on  a  trivet  over  a 
slow  fire  a  couple  of  hours  before  dinner 
(some  apples  will  take  a  long  time  slewing, 
others  will  be  ready  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour) : 
when  the  apples  are  done  enough,  pour  off 
the  water,  let  them  stand  a  few  minutes  to 
get  dry;  then  beat  them  up  with  a  fork, 
with  a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  nut- 
meg, and  a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  sugar. 

N.  B. — Some  add  lemon-t^eel,  grated,  or 
minced  fine,  or  boil  a  bit  with  tlie  apples. 


ATTELETS.     Take  of  finely- 

minced  parsley,  mushrooms,  and  shallots,  a 
table-spoonful  each ;  fiy  diem  with  a  little  but- 
ter, and  then  dredge  in  a  little  flour;  moisten 
the  mixture  with  some  good  stock,  season 
it  with  [jepper  and  salt,  and  boil  it  till  it 
begins  to  thicken ;  then  take  it  off  the  fire, 
and  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  or 
three  eggs.  Stir  it  well  all  the  time  it  is 
making. 


BEEF-GRAVY,    or    Brown 

Sauce  for  Ragout,  Game,  Poultry, 
Fish,  fyc.  If  you  want  gravy  immediately, 
see  Potato  Soup,  or  Glaze.  If  you  have 
time  enough,  furnish  a  thick  and  well-tinned 
stewpan  with  a  thin  slice  of  salt  pork,  or  an 
ounce  of  butter,  and  a  middling-sized  onion; 
on  this  lay  a  pound  of  nice,  juicy  gravy 
beef,  (as  the  object  in  making  gravy  is  to 
extract  the  nutritious  succulence  of  the  meat, 
it  must  be  beaten  to  comminute  the  contain- 
ing vessels,  and  scored  to  augment  the  sur- 
face to  the  action  of  the  water) ;  cover  the 
stewpan,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire;  when 
the  meat  begins  to  brown,  turn  it  about, 
and  let  it  get  slightly  browned  (but  take 
care  it  is  not  at  all  burned):  then  pour  in  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water;  set  the 
pan  on  the  fire;  when  it  boils,  carefully  ; 
catch  the  scum,  and  then  put  in  a  crust  of 
bread    toasted  brown    (don't    burn    it)   a 


SAUCES 


183 


SAUCES 


sprig  of  winter  savory,  or  lemon  thyme  and 
parsley — a  roll  of  thin  cut  lemon-peel,  a  doz- 
en berries  of  allspice,  and  a  dozen  of  black 
pepper.  Cover  the  stewpan  close,  and  let 
it  stew  very  gently  for  about  two  hours, 
then  strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin. 
Now,  if  you  wish  to  thicken  it,  set  a  clean 
stewpan  over  a  slow  fire,  with  about  an 
ounce  of  butter  in  it ;  when  it  is  melted, 
dredge  to  it,  by  degrees,  as  much  flour  as 
will  diy  it  up,  stirring  them  well  together ; 
when  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  in  a  little 
gravy — stir  it  well  together,  and  add  the  re- 
mainder by  degrees ;  set  it  over  the  fire,  let 
it  simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes  longer, 
skim  off  the  fat,  &c.  as  it  rises;  when  it  is 
about  as  thick  as  cream,  squeeze  it  through 
a  tamis  or  fine  sieve — and  you  will  have  a 
fine  rich  Brown  Sauce,  at  a  very  moderate 
expense,  and  without  much  trouble. 


FOR  BOILED  BEEF.     Mince 

a  large  onion,  parboil  it,  and  drain  oflf  the 
water ;  put  the  onion  into  a  saucepan,  with 
a  table-spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
some  good  gravy,  and  one  ounce  of  butter 
dredged  with  a  little  flour.  Let  it  boil 
nearly  ten  minutes,  and  add  a  spoonful  of 
cut  capers,  which  must  be  thoroughly  heat- 
ed before  the  sauce  is  served. 


BROWN.    Take  a  pound   or 

two  of  steaks,  two  or  three  pounds  of  veal, 
some  pickings  of  fowl,  carrots,  and  onions, 
put  all  these  into  a  saucepan  with  a  glass 
of  water,  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire;  when 
scarcely  any  moisture  remains,  put  it  on  a 
slow  fire,  that  the  jelly  may  take  color  with- 
out burning;  and  as  soon  as  it  is  brown, 
moisten  it  with  stock  (or  water),  add  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  green  onions,  two  bay- 
leaves,  two  cloves,  and  some  champignons, 
salt  it  well,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  for  three 
hours,  then  strain ;  dilute  a  little  roux  with 
your  liquor,  and  boil  it  an  hour  over  a  gentle 
fire,  take  off  all  the  fat,  and  run  it  through 
a  bolting. 


BONNE    BOUCHE,    FOR 

Goose,  Duck,  or  roast  Pork.  Mix 
a  tea-spoonfiil  of  made  mustard,  a  salt-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  in  a 
large  wine-glassful  of  claret  or  Port  wine ; 
pour  it  into  the  goose  by  a  slit  in  the  apron 
just  before  serving  up  ;  or,  as  all  the  com- 
pany may  not  like  it,  stir  it  into  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  thick  melted  butter,  or  thicken- 
ed gravy,  and  send  it  up  in  a  boat.  A  fa- 
vorite relish  for  roast  pork  or  geese,  &c.  is, 
two  ounces  of  leaves  of  green  sage,  an  ounce 
of  firesh  lemon-peel  pared  thin,  same  of  salt, 
minced  eschalot,  and  half  a  drachm  of 
cayenne  pepper,  ditto  of  citric  acid,  steeped 
for  a  fortnight  in  a  pint  of  claret ',  shake  it 


up  well  every  day ;  let  it  stand  a  day  to  set- 
tle, and  decant  the  clear  liquor ;  bottle  it, 
and  cork  it  close ;  a  table-spoonful  or  more 
in  a  quarter  pint  of  gravy,  or  melted  butter. 

BREAD.   (1)  Boil,  in  a  pint  of 


water,  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll  or  of  a 
slice  of  bread,  a  minced  onion,  and  some 
whole  pepper.  When  the  onion  is  tender, 
drain  off  the  water,  pick  out  the  pepper- 
corns, and  rub  the  bread  through  a  sieve; 
then  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  gill  of 
cream,  a  bit  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt. 
Stir  it  till  it  boil,  and  sei*ve  it  in  a  sauce- 
tureen. 


BREAD.     (2)     Mix,  in  rather 

more  than  half  a  pint  of  milk  or  water,  a 
slice  of  grated  bread,  a  dessert-spoonful  of 
potato  flour,  a  small  onion  pounded,  a  bit  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  few  whole 
pepper  corns,  a  little  mace,  and  salt.  Boil 
it  well,  pick  out  the  spices,  and  mix  it 
smooth.     Serve  quite  hot. 


BREAD.     (3)     Put  a  smaU 

tea-cupful  of  bread  crumbs  into  a  stewpan, 
pour  on  it  as  much  milk  as  it  Avill  soak  up, 
and  a  little  more;  or  instead  of  the  milk, 
take  the  giblets,  head,  neck,  and  legs,  &c. 
of  the  poultry,  &c.  and  stew  them,  and 
moisten  the  bread  with  tliis  liquor ;  put  it  on 
the  fire  with  a  middling-sized  onion,  and  a 
dozen  berries  of  pepper  or  allspice,  or  a  lit- 
tle mace;  let  it  boil,  then  stir  it  well,  and 
let  it  simmer  till  it  is  quite  fetift",  and  then 
put  to  it  about  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream 
or  melted  butter,  or  a  little  good  broth; 
take  out  the  onion  and  pepper,  and  it  is 
ready. 

db». — ^This  is  an  excellent   accompani- 
ment to  game  and  poultry. 


FOR  BOILED  MEAT,  Game, 

AND  Poultry.  Bruise  the  yolks  of  two 
hard-boiled  eggs  with  a  little  water  and  salt ; 
bone  one  anchovy,  and  mince  it,  a  small  on- 
ion, two  shallots,  a  little  parsley  and  tarra- 
gon, and  a  few  capers ;  mix  them  with  the 
egg,  add  a  table-sf>oonful  of  fine  oil,  a  little 
mustard,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon,  and 
one  of  tarragon  vinegar;  mix  all  exceed- 
ingly well  together,  put  it  into  a  sauce-tu- 
reen, and  serve  it  with  the  broil ;  or  it  may 
be  served  with  cold  veal. 


CAPER.      To  make  a  quarter 

of  a  pint,  take  a  table-spoonful  of  capers, 
and  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

The  present  fashion  of  cutting  capers  is 
to  mince  one-third  of  them  very  fine,  and 
divide  the  others  in  half;  put  them  into  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  or  good 
tliickened  gravy;  stir  them   tlie  same  way 


SAUCES 


184 


SAUCES 


as  you  did  the  melted  butter,  or  it  will  oil. 
Some  boil,  and  mince  fine  a  few  leaves  of 
parsley,  or  chervil,  or  tarragon,  and  add 
these  to  the  sauce ;  others  tlie  juice  of  half 
a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon. 

Keep  the  caper  bottle  vei*y  closely  corked, 
and  do  not  use  any  of  the  caper  liquor:  if 
the  capers  are  not  well  covered  with  it,  they 
M'ill  immediately  spoil ;  and  it  is  an  excel- 
lent ingredient  in  hashes,  &c.  The  Dutch 
use  it  as  a  fish  sauce,  mixing  it  with  melted 
butter. 


CARRIER.      Scrape  a  small 

stick  of  horse-radish,  cut  an  onion  or  two 
in  thin  slices,  put  tliese  into  a  sauce-tureen 
with  a  little  vinegar  and  whole  pepper ;  set 
the  tureen  in  tlie  dripping-pan  under  a 
shoulder  of  mutton  whilst  roasting;  serve 
this  sauce  quite  hot  with  the  meat. 

CELERY,  WHITE.    Pick  and 


wash  two  heads  of  nice  white  celery ;  cut  it 
into  pieces  about  an  inch  long;  stew  it  in  a 
pint  of  water,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  till 
tiie  celei-y  is  tender ;  roll  an  ounce  of  butter 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour;  add  this  to 
half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  give  it  a  boil  up. 

CELERY  PUREE,  /or  boiled 


Turkey,  Veal,  Fowls,  fyc.  Cut  small 
half  a  dozen  heads  of  nice  white  celery  that 
is  quite  clean,  and  two  onions  sliced;  put 
in  a  two-quart  stewpan,  with  a  small  lump 
of  butter:  sweat  them  over  a  slow  fire  till 
quite  tender,  then  put  in  two  spoonfuls  of 
flour,  half  a  pint  of  water  (or  beef  or  veal 
broth),  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little  (jream  or 
milk ;  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  pass 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve  with  the  back  of  a 
spoon.  If  you  wish  for  celery  sauce  when 
celery  is  not  in  season,  a  quarter  of  a  drachm 
of  celery  seed,  or  a  little  essence  of  celeiy, 
will  impregnate  half  a  pint  of  sauce  with  a 
sufficient  portion  of  the  flavor  of  the  vege- 
table. 


nicely-cleaned  currants,  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  bread,  a  piece  of  butter 
tlie  size  of  a  walnut,  four  cloves,  and  a  glass 
of  Port  wine;  stir  it  till  it  boil,  and  serve  it 
hot. 

CURRY,  Is  made  by  stirring  a 


sufficient  quantity  of  curry  powder,  into  gra- 
vy or  melted  butter,  or  onion  sauce,  or  onion 
gravy.  The  compositions  of  curry  powder, 
and  the  palates  of  those  who  eat  it,  vary  so 
much,  that  we  cannot  recommend  any  spe- 
cific quantity.  The  cook  must  add  it  by 
degrees,  tasting  as  she  proceeds,  and  take 
care  not  to  put  in  too  much. 

DUTCH.   (1)  Beat  up  the  yolks 

of  six  eggs,  mix  in  a  little  flour,  cream,  salt, 
and  lemon  vinegar.  Strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  add  a  small  piece  of  fresh  IxUter,  two 
blades  of  pounded  mace,  and  a  little  pepper. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  till  it 
is  almost  boilinjr. 


CHESTNUT,  FOR  ROAST 

TURKEY.  Scald  a  pound  of  good  chest- 
nuts in  hot  water  for  five  minutes,  skin  them, 
and  stew  them  slowly  for  two  hours  in  white 
stock,  seasoned  and  thickened  with  butter 
<ind  flour.  Cut  a  pound  of  pork  sausages 
into  bits  about  an  inch  long,  dust  them  with 
flour,  and  fi-y  them  a  light  brown ;  lay  them 
into  the  dish  on  which  the  turkey  is  to  be 
served,  and  pour  the  chestnuts  and  sauce 
over  tliem.  Some  people  prefer  the  fried 
sausages  stewed  a  little  with  the  chestnuts; 
but  this  metliod  makes  the  sauce  of  a  darker 
color. 

CURRANT,  FOR  VENISON.        EGG.     (2)     Boil  three  or  four 

Boil  in  water  for  a  few  minutes  au  ounce  of     eggs  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  put  them 


DUTCH.  (2)  Put  into  a  stewpan 

a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  foiu-  table-spoonfuls  of 
elder  vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  a  little 
salt ;  keep  stirring  it  over  the  fire,  and  work 
it  well  till  thick.  If  it  be  not  curdled,  it 
will  not  require  to  be  strained.  Season 
with  pepper. 

DUTCH,  FOR  Fish  or  Boii.- 

ED  Fowls.  Mix,  with  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  one  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  two 
table-spoonflils  of  cold  water,  the  same 
quantity  of  vinegar,  and  one  well-beaten 
egg ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over 
the  file  till  it  be  quite  hot,  but  do  not  allow 
it  to  boil. 

EGG.  (1)  This  agreeable  accom- 
paniment to  roasted  poultry,  or  salted  fish, 
is  made  by  putting  three  eggs  into  boiling 
water,  and  boiling  them  for  about  twelve 
minutes,  when  they  will  be  hard;  put  them 
into  cold  water  till  you  want  them.  This 
will  make  the  yolks  firmer,  and  prevent 
their  surface  turning  black,  and  you  can  cut 
them  much  neater:  use  only  two  of  the 
whites,  cut  the  whites  into  small  dice,  the 
yolks  into  bits  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
square;  put  them  into  a  sauce-boat;  pour 
to  them  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  and 
stir  them  together. 

If  you  are  for  superlative  egg  sauce, 
pound 'die  yolks  of  a  couple  of  eggs,  and  rub 
tl)em  with  the  melted  butter  to  thicken  it. 

N.  B. — Some  cooks  garnish  salt  fish  with 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  half. 


SAUCES 


185 


SAUCES 


into  cold  water,  take  off  the  shells,  cut  three 
of  the  whites  and  four  yolks  into  small 
pieces,  mix  them  with  melted  butter,  and 
heat  it  well. 


ESCHALOT.  Take  four  es- 
chalots, and  make  it  in  the  same  manner  as 
garlic  sauce.  Or,  you  may  make  this  sauce 
more  extemporaneously  by  putting  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  eschalot  wine,  and  a  sprinkling 
of  pepper  and  salt,  into  (almost)  half  a  pint 
of  thick  melted  butter.  This  is  an  excellent 
sauce  for  chops  or  steaks;  many  are  very 
fond  of  it  with  roasted  or  boiled  meat, 
poultry,  &c. 

ESCHALOT,    FOR    BOIL- 


ED MUTTON.  This  is  a  very  frequent 
and  satisfactory  substitute  for  caper  sauce. 
Mince  four  eschalots  very  fine,  and  put  them 
into  a  small  saucepan,  with  almost  half  a  pint 
of  the  liquor  the  mutton  was  boiled  in:  let 
them  boil  up  for  five  minutes;  then  put  in  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  a  quarter  tea-spoon- 
ful of  pepper,  a  little  salt,  and  a  bit  of  butter 
(as  big  as  a  walnut)  rolled  in  flour;  shake 
together  till  it  boils. 

ESCAVEKE    SAUCE,    for 


Cold  Game,  Fowl,  or  Meat.  Beat, 
in  a  marble  mortar,  the  following  ingredients : 
five  cloves  of  garlic,  six  cloves  of  shal- 
lot, as  much  pounded  ginger  as  will  lie  upon 
a  sixpence,  and  the  same  of  cayenne,  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  coriander  seed,  and  a  little 
salt.  Pour  upon  them,  boiling  hot,  a  pint 
of  the  best  white  wine  vinegar ;  add  the  peel 
of  a  lemon,  cut  veiy  thin.  When  cold,  put 
the  whole  into  a  bottle,  cork  it  tightly,  and 
shake  it  well  before  using. 

FOR  FISH.    (1)    The  melted 


butter  for  fish,  should  be  thick  enough  to  ad- 
here to  thefish,  and,  therefore,  must  be  of  the 
thickness  of  light  batter,  as  it  is  to  be  dilut- 
ed with  essence  of  anchovy,  soy,  mushroom 
ketchup,  cayenne,  or  Chili  vinegar,  lemons 
or  lemon-juice,  or  artificial  lemon-juice,  &c. 
which  are  exf)ected  at  all  well-served  tables. 
Cooks,  who  are  jealous  of  the  reputation  of 
their  taste,  and  housekeepers  who  value  their 
health,  will  prepare  these  articles  at  home : 
there  are  quite  as  many  reasons  why  they 
should,  as  there  are  for  the  preference  usually 
given  to  home-baked  bread,  and  home-brew- 
ed beer.  The  liver  of  the  fish  jX)unded  and 
mixed  with  parsley  and  butter,  with  a  little 
lemon-juice,  &c.  is  an  elegant  and  inoffensive 
relish  to  fish. 

FOR  FISH.  (2)  Two  wine-gla 


68  of  Port,  and  two  of  walnut  pickle,  four  of 

mushroom  ketchup,  half  a  dozen  anchovies, 

pounded,  the  like  numljer  of  eschalots  sliced 

16* 


and  pounded,  a  table-spoonful  of  soy,  and 
half  a  d»-achm  of  cayenne  pepper ;  let  them 
simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes ;  strain  it,  and 
when  cold,  put  it  into  bottles,  well  corked, 
and  sealed  over,  it  will  keep  for  a  considera- 
ble time. 

06s.— This  is  commonly  called  Quln's 


FOR  FISH.  (3)  A  table- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  juice,  one  of  soy,  and 
two  of  mushroom  ketchup,  mixed  in  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  melted  butter. 

FOR  FISH.   (4)   Three  ancho- 


vies and  an  onion  chopped,  and  a  small  bit 
of  horseradish  boiled  in  some  stock,  then 
strained,  and  thickened  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter rolled  in  flour. 

FOR  FISH.   (5)   Boil  in  half  a 


pint  of  water  one  or  two  anchovies,  two 
cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel, 
a  few  peppercorns,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  Port  wine ;  strain  and  thicken  it  with  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

FOR  FISH.   (6)  Mix  well  with 


two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  essence  of  anchovies,  and  lemon 
pickle,  a  table-spoonful  each,  a  tea-spoonful 
of  soy,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Boil  it  before 
serving. 

FOR  FISH.  (7)  Chop  two  dozen 


of  whole  anchovies,  mix  with  them  half  a 
pint  of  anchovy  liquor,  two  shallots  cut  small, 
and  three  pints  of  Port  wine,  one  of  vinegar, 
one  lemon  sliced,  one  handful  of  scraped 
horseradish,  and  ten  blades  of  mace,  one 
nutmeg,  twelve  peppercorns,  six  cloves,  all 
bruised,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  flour  of 
mustard.  Boil  these  together  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes;  wlien  cold,  strain  and 
bottle  it,  waxing  the  corks.  It  will  keep 
good  a  year.  A  table-spoonful  improves 
oyster  sauce,  and  that  quantity  is  sufficient 
for  a  sauce-tureen  of  melted  butter. 


FOR  FISH.  (8)  A  quart  of  Port 

wine,  half  a  pint  of  best  vinegar,  one  pound 
of  bruised  anchovies,  one  ounce  of  mace  and 
one  of  cloves,  half  an  ounce  of  i:)epper,  one 
large  onion,  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon;  boil 
all  these  ingredients  togetlier,  over  a  slow 
fire,  till  a  pint  is  wasted ;  then  strain,  and 
bottle  it,  and  keep  it  closely  stopped. 

FISH  OR  MEAT  SAUCE,  TO  MAKE 
A  QUART  BOTTLE  OF,  To  half  a 
bottle  of  vinegar  put  one  ounce  of  cayenne, 
two  cloves  of  garlic,  one  table-spoonful  of 
soy,  two  of  walnut,  and  two  of  mushroom 
ketchup.     Let  it  stand  six  days,  shaking  it 


SAUCES 


186 


SAUCES 


fi^uently,  then  add  the  remaining  half  of 
the  bottle  of  vinegar;  let  it  stand  another 
week,  strain,  and  put  it  into  small  bottles. 

WHITE,  FOR  FISH.     Four 


anchovies  chopped,  two  glasses  of  white 
wine,  a  large  one  of  vinegar,  an  onion  stuck 
with  three  cloves,  and  cut  into  quarters ;  let 
all  these  simmer  till  the  anchovies  dissolve; 
sti'ain  it,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  kneaded  in  a  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
When  it  has  melted,  stir  in  gradually,  one 
way,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  taking  care  that 
it  do  not  boil.  When  thoroughly  heated, 
serve  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

LIVER,  FOR  FISH.    Boil  the 

liver  of  the  fish,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar 
with  a  little  flour ;  stir  it  into  some  broth, 
or  some  of  the  liquor  the  fish  was  boiled  in, 
or  melted  butter,  parsley,  and  a  few  grains 
of  cayenne,  a  little  essence  of  anchovy,  or 
soy,  or  ketchup;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  rub 
it  through  a  sieve :  you  may  add  a  little  lem- 
on-juice, or  lemon  cut  in  dice. 


PINK,  FOR  FISH.    Put  into  a 

pan,  or  wide-mouthed  jar,  one  quart  of  good 
vinegar,  half  a  pint  of  Port  wine,  half  an 
ounce  of  cayenne,  one  large  table-spoonful 
of  walnut  ketchup,  two  ditto  of  anchovy 
liquor,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal, 
and  six  cloves  of  garlic.  Let  it  remain  forty 
hours,  stirring  it  two  or  three  times  a-day; 
run  it  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  put  it  into 
half-pint  bottles. 

FOR  PIKE.     Mix  with  a  pint 


of  cream  a  table-spoonful  of  anchovy  sauce, 
the  same  of  soy,  and  two  of  ketchup,  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour;  put  it  into  a 
saucepan,  and  stir  it  one  way  till  nearly 
boiling. 


WHITE,  FOR  PIKE.    Simmer 

till  half  wasted,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  white 
wine,  one  of  vinegar,  half  a  small  onion,  and 
«5ome  grated  nutmeg;  add  a  piece  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour,  then  a  small  tea-cupful  of 
cream;  heat  it  thoroughly,  stirring  it  all  the 
time,  and  taking  care  that  it  do  not  boil. 


GREEN  GOOSEBERRY.  Boil 

some  green  gooseberries  in  water  till  soft, 
aad  sweeten  them  with  brown  sugar. 

GOOSEBERRY.     Top  and  tail 

them  close  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  scald 
half  a  {)int  of  green  gooseberries;  drain  them 
on  a  Irair  sieve,  and  put  them  into  half  a 
pint  of  melted  butter.  Some  add  grated 
ginger  and  lemon-peel,  and  the  French,  min- 
ced fennel ;  others  send  up  the  gooseberries 
whole  or  maslied,  witliout  any  butter,  &c. 


GOOSE  STUFFING.      Chop 

very  fine  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an  ounce 
of  green  sage  leaves ;  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  four  spoonfuls  of  water;  simmer 
gently  for  ten  minutes;  then  put  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  one  ounce 
of  fine  bread  crumbs;  mix  well  together; 
then  pour  to  it  a  (inarter  of  a  pint  of  broth, 
or  gravy,  or  melted  butter,  stir  well  togeth- 
er, and  simmer  it  a  few  minutes  longer. 


—  GRANDE.     Take  three  or  four 

slices  from  the  under  part  of  a  knuckle  of 
veal,  and  put  them  into  a  large  stewpan 
with  two  ladlefuls  of  consomme,  set  it  on  a 
fierce  fire,  taking  care  to  skim  it  as  much  as 
possible,  and  with  a  cloth  wipe  away  all 
that  adheres  to  the  inside  of  the  stewpan ; 
when  the  consomme  is  reduced,  prick  the 
slices  with  a  knife  to  let  out  the  giavy;  then 
set  the  stewpan  on  a  slow  fire,  that  the  meat 
and  glaze  may  adhere  together,  and  as  soon 
as  the  latter  is  of  a  clear  light  color,  take  it 
off",  leave  it  covered  for  ten  minutes,  then  fiU 
it  up  with  rich  stock,  in  which  is  four  or 
five  large  can-ots,  and  three  onions;  let  it 
boil  slowly  for  two  hours.  In  the  meantime 
put  the  knuckle  into  a  saucepan  with  four  or 
five  carrots,  as  many  onions  (one  stuck  with 
cloves),  and  two  ladlefuls  of  consomme; 
set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  that  the  liquor  may  re- 
duce to  a  jelly;  as  soon  as  this  jelly  begins 
to  take  color,  pour  on  it  the  liquor  from  the 
other  saucepan  to  dissolve  the  jelly  gradual- 
ly; then  make  it  boil.  Dilute  some  roiix 
with  the  above  liquor,  and  add  it  to  the  meat 
with  some  champignons,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
scallions,  and  two  bay-leaves,  skim  it  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  and  again  when  the  ronx 
is  .added,  put  in  more  consomme  or  roux, 
according  as  it  is  too  thick  or  too  thin. 

When  it  has  boiled  an  hour  and  a  half, 
take  off"  all  the  fat ;  and  when  the  meat  is 
quite  done,  strain  the  sauce  dnough  a  bol- 
ting-cloth. 


GRILL.     To  half  a  pint  of  gravy, 

add  an  ounce  of  fresh  buitei',  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  previously  well  rubbed  to- 
gether, the  same  of  mushroom  or  walnut 
ketchup,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juicei, 
one  of  made  mustard,  one  of  minced  capers, 
half  a  one  of  black  pepper,  a  quarter  of  a 
rind  of  a  lemon  grated  very  thin,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  a  little 
eschalot  wine,  or  a  very  small  piece  of  mii>- 
ced  eschalot,  and  a  little  Chili  vinegar,  or  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne;  simmer  together  for 
a  few  minutes;  pour  a  little  of  it  over  tlie 
grill ;  and  send  up  die  rest  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

HARVEY.     Chop  twelve  ancho- 


vies, bones  and  all,  vei-y  small,  with  one 
ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  six   sjMXtnfuls  of 


SAUCES 


187 


SAUCES 


soy,  six  ditto  of  good  walnut  pickle,  three 
heads  of  garlic,  chopped  not  very  small,  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal,  two  heads 
of  shallots,  chopped  not  vei-y  small,  one  gal- 
lon of  vinegar;  let  it  stand  fourteen  days, 
stir  it  well,  twice  or  thrice  every  day ;  then 
pass  it  Uirough  a  jelly-bag,  and  repeat  this 
till  it  is  perfectly  clear;  then  bottle  it,  and 
tie  a  bladder  over  the  cork. 

HORSERADISH,  TO  EAT 

WITH  Hot  or  Cold  Meat.  Mix  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  a  table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar, and  three  of  cream ;  add  a  little  salt, 
and  as  much  finely-grated  horseradish  as 
will  make  the  sauce  tlie  consistence  of 
onion  sauce. 


FOR  HASHES  AND  MADE 

DISHES.  A  pint  of  Port  wine,  twelve 
anchovies  chopped,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
vinegar,  as  much  beaten  pepper  as  will  lie 
on  half  a  crown,  two  or  three  cloves,  a 
blade  or  two  of  mace,  a  nutmeg  bruised, 
one  small  onion  minced,  two  bay-leaves,  a 
little  lemon  thyme,  marjoram,  and  partijey, 
and  a  piece  of  horseradish  about  the  length 
(rfa  finger  split  into  quarters;  put  all  into  a 
saucepan,  and  let  it  simmer  till  the  ancho- 
vies are  dissolved ;  then  strain  it,  and,  when 
oold,  bottle  it  for  use. 


FOR  HASHED  OR  MINCED 

VEx4L.  Take  the  bones  of  cold  roast  or 
boiled  veal,  dredge  them  well  with  flour, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  broth  or  water,  a  small  onion, 
A  little  grated  or  finely-minced  lemon-peel, 
or  the  peel  of  a  quarter  of  a  small  lemon, 
pared  as  thin  as  possible,  half  a  tea-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  blade  of  pounded  mace;  to 
thicken  it,  rub  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  into 
half  an  ounce  of  butter ;  stir  it  into  the 
broth,  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil 
very  gently  for  about  half  an  hour ;  strain 
through  a  tamis  or  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  to 
put  to  tlie  veal  to  warm  up;  which  is  to  be 
done  by  placing  the  stewpan  by  the  side  of 
tlie  fire.  Squeeze  in  half  a  lemon,  and  cov- 
er die  bottom  of  the  dish  with  toasted  bread 
sippets  cut  into  triangles,  and  garnish  the 
dish  with  slices  of  ham  or  bacon. 

FOR  HASHES  OF  MUTTON 


OR  BEEF.  Unless  you  are  quite  sure  you 
ix;rft;ctly  understand  the  palate  of  those  you 
are  working  for,  show  those  who  are  to 
eat  the  hash  this  receipt,  and  beg  of  them  to 
direct  you  how  they  wish  it  seasoned. 

Half  the  number  of  the  ingredients  enu- 
merated will  he  more  than  enough:  but  as  it 
is  a  receipt  so  often  wanted  we  have  given 
variety. 

Chop  the  bones  and  fragments  of  the  joint. 


&c.,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan;  cover 
them  with  boiling  water,  six  berries  of 
black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice,  a  small 
bundle  of  parsley,  half  a  head  of  celery  cut 
in  pieces,  and  a  small  sprig  of  savory,  or 
lemon  thyme,  or  sweet  marjoram ;  cover  up, 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour. 

SUce  half  an  ounce  of  onion,  and  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter ;  fry 
it  over  a  sharp  fire  for  about  a  couple  of 
minutes,  till  it  takes  a  little  color;  then  stir 
in  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  a  stiff 
paste,  and  by  degrees  mix  with  it  the  gravy 
you  have  made  from  the  bones,  &c. ;  let  it 
boil  very  gently  for  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  till  it  is  the  consistence  of  cream; 
strain  it  through  a  tamis  or  sieve  into  a  ba- 
sin ;  put  it  back  into  the  stewpan :  to  season 
it,  cut  in  a  few  pickled  onions,  or  walnuts, 
or  a  couple  of  gherkins,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  mushrooni  ketchup,  or  walnut  or  other 
pickle  liquor;  or  some  capers,  and  caper 
liquor;  or  a  table-spoonful  of  ale;  or  a  little 
eschalot,  or  tarragon  vinegar ;  cover  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  with  sippets  of  bread  (that 
they  may  become  savory  reservoirs  of  gra- 
vy), which  some  toast  and  cut  into  triangles- 
You  may  garnish  it  with  fried  bread  sippets. 

N.  B. — ^To  hash  meat  in  perfection,  it 
should  be  laid  in  this  gravy  only  just  long 
enough  to  get  properly  warm  through. 

Obs. — If  any  of  the  gravy  that  was  sent 
up  with,  or  ran  from  the  joint  when  it  was 
roasted,  be  left,  it  will  be  a  great  improve- 
ment to  the  hash. 

If  you  wish  to  make  mock  venison,  instead 
of  the  onion,  put  in  two  or  three  cloves,  a 
table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  claret  or  Port  wine,  instead  of 
the  ketchup. 

You  may  make  a  cuny  hash  by  adding 
some  curry  jam. 

N.  B. — A  pint  of  Beef-gi'avy  Sauce  is  an 
excellent  gravy  to  warm  up  eitlier  meat  or 
poultry. 


KELLY'S,  FOR    BOILED 

Tripe,  Calf-head,  or  Cow-heel. 
Garlic  vinegar,  a  table-spoonful ;  of  mustard, 
brown  sugar,  and  black  pepper,  a  tea-spoon- 
ful each ;  stirred  into  half  a  pint  of  oiled 
melted  butter. 


KELLY'S  PIQUANTE.  Pound 

a  table-spoonful  of  capers,  and  one  of  minced 
parsley,  as  fine  as  possible;  then  add  the 
yolks  of  three  hard  eggs,  rub  them  well  to- 
gether with  a  table-spoonful  of  mustard; 
bone  six  anchovies,  and  pound  them,  rub 
them  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  mix  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  one  of  vinegar,  one  of 
eschalot  ditto,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne 
pepper;  rub  all  these  well  together  in  a 
mortar,  till    thoroughly    inf;orporated ;   then 


SAUCES 


188 


SAUCES 


Bth*  them  into  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  or 
ineked  butter,  and  put  the  whole  through  a 


LEMON.     Pare  a  lemon,   and 

cut  it  into  slices  twice  as  thick  as  a  half- 
crown  piece ;  divide  these  into  dice,  and  put 
them  into  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  but- 
ter. Some  cooks  mince  a  bit  of  the  lemon- 
peel  (pared  very  thin)  very  fine,  and  add  it 
to  the  above. 


LEMON  AND  LIVER.    Pare 

off  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  or  of  a  Seville  orange, 
as  thin  as  possible,  so  as  not  to  cut  off  any 
of  the  white  witli  it;  now  cut  off  all  the 
white,  and  cut  the  lemon  into  slices  about 
as  thick  as  a  couple  of  half-crowns ;  pick  out 
the  pips,  and  divide  the  slices  into  small 
squares :  add  these,  and  a  little  of  the  peel 
minced  very  fine  to  the  liver,  prepared  as 
directed  above,  and  put  them  into  the  melted 
butter,  and  warm  them  together ;  but  do  not 
let  them  boil. 

N.  B. — The  poulterers  can  always  let  you 
have  fresh  livers,  if  that  of  the  fowl  or  rabbit 
is  not  good,  or  not  large  enough  to  make  as 
much  sauce  as  you  wish. 

Obs. — Some  cooks,  instead  of  pounding, 
mince  the  liver  very  fine  (with  half  as  much 
bacon),  and  leave  out  the  parsley;  others 
add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  some  of 
the  peel  grated,  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  tarragon 
or  Chili  vinegar,  a  table-spoonful  of  white 
wine,  or  a  Utile  beaten  mace,  or  nutmeg, 
or  allspice:  if  you  wish  it  a  little  more  liyely 
on  the  palate,  pound  an  eschalot,  or  a  few 
leaves  of  tarragon  or  basil,  with  anchory,  or 
ketchup,  or  cayenne. 


LIVER  AND  PARSLEY,  OR 

LIVER  AND  LEMON.  Wash  the  liver 
(it  must  be  perfectly  fresh)  of  a  fowl  or  rab- 
bit, and  boil  it  five  minutes  in  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water;  chop  it  fine,  or  pound 
or  bruise  it  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  licjuor 
it  was  boiled  in,  and  mb  it  through  a  sieve: 
wash  aix>ut  one- third  the  bulk  of  parsley 
leaves,  put  them  on  to  boil  in  a  little  boiling 
water,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  in  it;  lay 
it  on  a  hair  sieve  to  drain,  and  mince  it  very 
fine;  mix  it  with  the  liver,  and  put  it  into  a 
quarter  pint  of  melted  butter,  and  warm  it 
up;  do  not  let  it  boil. 


. LOBSTER.  (1)  Bruise  the  body, 

add  it  to  some  thick  melted  butler ;  pull  the 
flesh  into  small  bits,  and  mix  all  together 
witli  some  rich  beef  gravy ;  boil  it  up,  and 
before  serving  add  a  little  salt,  and  squeeze 
in  a  little  lemon-juice. 

LOBSTER.     (2)     Pound  veiy 

finely  the  spawn  of  a  lobster,  nib  it  tlirough  ! 


a  sieve,  mix  it  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  melted  butter,  th^n  add  the  meat  of  the 
lobster  cut  into  small  bits.  Make  it  quite 
hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 


LOBSTER.     See  Lobster. 

FOR  LOBSTER.    Bruise  the 

yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  with  the  back 
of  a  wooden  spoon,  or  rather  pound  tliem  in 
a  mortar,  widi  a  tea-spoonful  of  water,  and 
the  soft  inside  and  the  spawn  of  the  lobster ; 
rub  them  quite  smooth,  with  a  tea-spoonful 
of  made  mustard,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
salad  oil,  and  five  of  vinegar;  season  it  with 
a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  some  salt. 

LOVE-APPLE,  ACCORDING 

TO  UDE.  Melt  in  a  stewpan  a  dozen  or 
two  of  love-apples  (which,  before  putting  in 
the  stewpan,  cut  in  two,  and  squeeze  the 
juice  and  the  seeds  out) ;  then  put  two  es- 
chalots, one  onion,  with  a  few  bits  of  ham, 
a  clove,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  few 
leaves  of  mace,  and  when  melted,  rub  them 
through  a  tamis.  Mix  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
good  Espagnole  or  Spanish  sauce,  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  with  this  puree.  Boil 
it  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  up. 


MINT.     (1)     Pick   and   wash 

some  green  mint;  add,  when  minced,  a 
table-spoonful  of  the  young  leaves,  to  four 
of  vinegar,  and  put  it  into  a  sauce-tureen, 
with  a  tea-spoonful  of  brown  sugar. 


—MINT.  (2)  Wash  half  a  hand- 
ful of  nice,  young,  fresh-gathered  green  mint 
(to  this  some  add  one-third  the  quantity  of 
parsley) ;  pick  the  leaves  from  tlie  stalks, 
mince  them  very  fine,  and  put  them  into  a 
sauce-boat,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  moist  su- 
gar, and  four  table-spoonfuls  pf  vinegar. 


MOCK    CAPER.     Cut    some 

pickled  green  pease,  French  beans,  gherkins, 
or  nasturtiums,  into  bits  the  size  of  capers; 
put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter, 
with  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  or 
nice  vinegar. 

MOCK  OYSTER.     Put  into  a 


saucepan  two  or  three  chopped  anchovies,  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  a  little  mace,  and 
one  or  two  cloves;  let  them  simmer  till  the 
anchovies  be  quite  dissolved.  Strain  it,  and 
when  cool,  add  a  tea-cupful  of  cream;  thick- 
en it  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  heat  it  up.  It  may  be  poured  over 
boiled  fowls  or  veal. 

MOCK  TOMATA.    The  only 


difference  between  this   and  genuine  love- 
apple  sauce,  is  the  substituting  the  pulp  of 


SAUCES 


189 


SAUCES 


apple  for  that  of  tomata,  coloring  it  with 
tumeric,  and  communicating  an  acid  flavor 
i^^ii  by  vinegar. 

' MUSHROOM.     Pick  and  peel 

half  a  pint  of  muslirooms  (the  smaller  the 
better) ;  wash  them  very  clean,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan,  with  half  a  pint  of  veal 
gravy  or  milk,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and 
an  ounce  of  butter  rubbed  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour ;  stir  them  togetlier,  and  set  them 
over  a  gentle  fire,  to  stew  slowly  till  tender ; 
skim  and  strain  it. 

Obs. — It  will  be  a  great  improvement  to 
this,  and  die  two  following  sauces,  to  add  to 
them  die  juice  of  half  a  dozen  mushrooms, 
prepared  the  day  before,  by  sprinkling  them 
with  salt,  the  same  as  when  you  make  ketch- 
up ;  or  add  a  large  spoonful  of  good  double 
mushroom  ketchup. 

See  Quintessence  of  Mushrooms. 

MUSHROOM,  FOR  BOILED 

Turkey  or  Fowl.  Pick  clean  and 
wash  a  pint  of  small  mushrooms,  rub  them 
with  flannel,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  little  salt,  grated  nutmeg, 
a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  pint 
of  cream,  keep  stirring  them  till  they  boil, 
then  pour  tliem  round  the  turkey,  fowl,  or 
chicken. 


WHITE  ONI9N.    The  follow- 

inp;  is  a  more  mild  and  delicate  preparation : 
ts^e  half  a  dozen  of  the  largest  and  whitest 
onions  (the  Spanish  are  the  mildest,  but 
these  can  only  be  had  from  August  to  De- 
cember); peel  them  and  cut  them  in  half, 
ftnd  lay  diem  in  a  pam  of  spring  water  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  boil  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour ;  and  then,  if  you  wish  them 
to  taste  very  mild,  pour  off  that  water,  and 
cover  them  with  fresh  boiling  water,  and  let 
tliem  boil  till  they  are  tender,  which  will 
sometimes  take  tliree-cjuarters  of  an  hour 
longer. 


ONION.     Boil  twelve  or  more 

onions  in  water;  when  it  boils,  pour  it  off", 
add  more  hot  water,  and  when  the  onions 
are  tender,  strain  and  mash  them  in  a  bowl, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  one 
oi"  two  spoonfuls  of  cream.  Heat  it  before 
serving.  An  apple  may  be  boiled  with  the 
onions. 


ONION,  OR  ONION  GRAVl!. 

Peel  and  slice  the  onions  (some  put  in  an 
efjual  quantitjiof  cucumber  or  celei-y)  into  a 
quart  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter;  set 
it  on  a  slow  fire,  and  turn  the  onion  about 
till  it  is  very  lightly  browned ;  now  gradually 
stir  in  half  an  ounce  of  flour ;  add  a  little 
broth  J  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  boil  up 


for  a  few  minutes ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
claret,  or  Port  wine,  and  same  of  mush* 
room  ketchup,  (you  may  sharpen  it  with  a 
little  lemon-juice  or  vinegar),  and  rub  it 
through  a  tamis  or  fine  sieve.  Curry  powder 
will  convert  this  into  excellent  curry  sauce. 

N.  B. — If  this  sauce  is  for  steaks,  shred 
an  ounce  of  onions,  fi-y  them  a  nice  brown, 
and  put  them  to  the  sauce  you  have  rubbed 
through  a  tamis;  or  some  very  small,  round, 
young  silver  button  onions,  f)eeled  and  boil- 
ed tender,  and  put  in  whole  when  your  sauce 
is  done,  will  be  an  acceptable  addition. 

Obs. — If  you  have  no  broth,  put  in  half  a 
pint  of  water,  and  just  before  you  give  it  the 
last  boil  up,  add  to  it  another  table-spoonfid 
of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  the  same  quantity 
of  Port  wine  or  good  ale.  The  flavor  of 
diis  sauce  may  be  varied  by  adding  tarragon 
or  burnet  vinegar. 


ONION.     See  Onion. 


ORANGE  GRAVY,  for  wild 

Ducks,  Woodcocks,  Snipes,  Widg- 
eon, Teal,  &c.  Set  on  a  saucepan  with 
half  a  pint  of  veal  gravy ;  add  to  it  half  a 
dozen  leaves  of  basil,  a  small  onion,  and  a 
roll  of  orange  or  lemon  peel,  and  let  it  boil 
up  for  a  few  minutes,  and  strain  it  off".  Put 
to  the  clear  gravy  the  juice  of  a  Seville  or- 
ange, or  lemon,  half  a^  tea-spoonful  of  salt, 
the  same  of  pepper,  and  a  glass  of  red  wine ; 
send  it  up  hot.  Eschalot  and  cayenne  may 
be  added.  This  is  an  excellent  sauce  for 
all  kinds  of  wild  water-fowl. 

Gravies  should  always  be  sent  up  in  a 
covered  boat :  they  keep  hot  longer ;  and  it 
leaves  it  to  the  choice  of  the  company  to 
partake  of  them  or  not. 


OYSTER.     See  Oysters. 


PIQUANT,  Put  a  little  chop- 
ped shallot  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy  in- 
to a  saucepan ;  let  it  boil  till  the  gravy  be 
nearly  boiled  away,  but  not  burned  to  the 
bottom  of  the  saucepan ;  add  as  much 
braise  as  may  be  required  for  the  sauce, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  boil  it  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  sugar, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  garlic  vinegar. 

N.  B. — Braise  is  an  onion  stuck  wi'h 
cloves,  and  boiled  till  tender  in  gravy  and 
white  wine. 

PIQUANT,  for  cold  Meat, 


Game,  Poultry,  Fish,  ^c.  or  Salads. 
Pound  iti  a  mortar  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
that  have  been  boiled  hard  Avith  a  mustard- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  and  a  little  pep- 
per and  salt ;  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sal- 
ad oil ;  mix  well,  and  then  add  tliree  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegai- ;  rub  it  up  well  till  it  ia 


SAUCES 


190 


SAUCES 


quite  smooth,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis  or 
sieve. 

Obs, — ^To  the  above,  some  add  an  an- 
chovy, or  a  table-sf)Oonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  or  wahiut  pickle,  some  finely-chop- 
ped parsley,  grated  horseradish,  or  young 
onions  minced,  or  burnet,  horseradish  or 
tarragon,  or  elder  vinegar,  &c.,  and  cay- 
enne or  minced  pickles,  capers,  &c.  This 
is  a  piquante  relish  for  lobsters,  crabs;  cold 
tish,  &c. 


SALAD  OR  PIQUANT,  FOR 

COLD  Meat,  Fish,  &c.  Pound  together 
an  ounce  of  scraped  horseradish,  half  an 
ounce  of  salt,  a  table-spoonfiil  of  made  mus- 
tard, four  drachms  of  minced  eschalots, 
half  a  drachm  of  celery  seed,  and  half  ditto 
of  cayenne,  adding  gradually  a  pint  of  bur- 
net,  or  tarragon  vinegar,  and  let  it  stand  in 
a  jar  a  week,  and  then  pass  it  through  a 
sieve. 

POIVRADE,    FOR    COLD 


MEAT.  (1)  Chop  finely  six  shallots  and  a 
Iiandful  of  picked  and  washed  parsley ;  mix 
with  it  a  little  vinegar,  mustard,  cayenne 
some  cold  gravy,  and  salt. 

POIVRADE,   FOR    COLD 

MEAT.  (2)  Bruise  the  yolk  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg  with  a  little  salt  and  mustard, 
oil,  soy,  chopped  parsley,  and  chives,  and 
pour  it  over  slices  of  any  cold  meat. 


PUDDING.     Mix  with  half  a 

pint  of  melted  butter  two  wine-glasses  of 
sherry,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  pounded 
loaf  sugar;  make  it  quite  hot,  and  serve  in 
a  sauce-tureen,  witli  grated  nutmeg  on  tlie 
top. 


QUIN'S.     (1)     Half  a  pint  of 

mushroom  pickle,  the  same  of  walnut  pickle, 
three  whole  and  three  pounded  cloves  of 
garlic,  six  anchovies  bruised,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne.  Mix  all  together  in  a 
large  bottle,  shake  it  daily  for  three  weeks, 
then  sti-ain,  and  bottle  it  for  use. 


QUIN'S.     (2)      One   pint  of 

Port  wine,  one  of  mushroom  ketchup,  one 
of  walnut  liquor,  one  of  essence  of  ancho- 
vies, and  a  tea-spoonful  of  cayenne;  mix 
all  together,  and  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an 
liour.  If  essence  of  anchovies,  is  not  to  be 
had,  lx)il  half  a  pound  of  anchovies  in  a 
quart  of  water  till  reduced  to  a  pint.  Strain, 
and  use  it. 

REVEREND.     Chop  up  some 


lemon-peel,  and  two  or  three  pickled  cu- 
ciunbers;  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
two  spionfiils  of  ctjlljs,  a  little  butter  rolled 


in  flour,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put 
It  on  the  fire,  and  make  it  quite  hot  without 
boiling,  stirring  all  the  lime,  make  a  liaison 
with  yolks  of  eggs,  and  serve. 

RICE.     Steep   a  quarter   of  a 

pound  of  rice  in  a  pint  of  milk,  with  onion, 
pepper,  &c.  as  in  the  last  receipt;  when 
the  rice  is  quite  tender  (take  out  the  spice), 
rub  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  stewpan: 
if  too  thick,  put  a  little  milk  or  cream  to  it. 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  delicate  white 
sauce;  and  at  elegant  tables  is  frequently 
served  instead  of  bread  sauce. 


FOR  ROAST  BEEF.  (1)  Mix 

well  together  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
finely-grated  horseradish,  a  dessert-spoon- 
ful of  made  mustard,  and  half  a  one  of 
brown  sugar,  then  add  vinegar  till  it  l;e  as 
thick  as  made  mustard.  Serve  in  a  sauce- 
tureen. 

FOR  ROAST  BEEF.  (2)  Put 


into  a  stone  jar  one  gill  of  soy,  two  of  vine- 
gaj',  two  of  water,  a  good-sized  stick  of 
horseradish,  and  two  sliced  onions.  Cover 
the  jar  closely,  and  set  it  into  a  pan  of  cold 
water;  when  it  boils,  let  it  simmer  for  two 
or  three  hours. 


ROBART,  FOR  Beef  Steaks 


OR  Mutton  Chops.  Put  into  a  saucepan 
a  littJe  gravy,  two  ounces  of  butter  dredged 
with  flour,  a  small  slice  of  raw  ham,  and 
two  or  three  minced  onions;  when  the  on- 
ions ai"e  browned,  dust  in  a  little  more 
flour,  and  add  nearly  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  lit- 
tle salt  and  pepper,  a  tea-spoonful  of  mus- 
tard, and  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar.  Boil 
it  for  some  minutes,  strain  and  sene  it. 


SALAD.     (1)     Bruise  the  yolk 

of  a  hard-boiled  egg  with  a  small  tea-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  then  add  a  dessert-spoonful  of 
mustard,  and  stir  in  gradually  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  olive  oil,  oiled  butter,  or  cream, 
Uien  by  degrees  mix  in  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar;  serve  it  in  a  sauce- 
tureen,  or  mix  it  with  the  salad.  Instead 
of  tlie  hard  egg,  some  persons  prefer  the 
tiauce  made  with  the  yolk  raw. 


SALAD.     (2)     Rub  smooth   a 

hard-boiled  egg,  beat  well  a  raw  egg,  and 
mix  them  together  with  a  little  water,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  cayenne,  one  of 
pepper,  and  one  of  mustard,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  vinegar,  one  of  essence  of  anchovies, "f 
and  five  of  rich  cream. 

The  artist,  as  he  styled  himself,  who  in- 
vented this  salad  sauce  drove  in  his  carriage 
to  his  employers,  and  charged  them  ten  shil- 
lings and  sixpence  for  each  visit ! 


SAUCES 


191 


SAUCES 


SAUCES.     See  also  Gravy,  page  89. 


SHALLOT.  (1)  Boil  a  few  minc- 
ed shallots  in  a  little  clear  gravy  and  nearly 
as  much  vinegar,  add  a  few  peppercorns  and 
a  little  salt.  Strain,  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce- 
tureen. 

SHALLOT.  (2)  Take  two  spoon- 


fhls  of  the  liquor  tlie  meat  was  boiled  in,  two 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  or  three  shallots  cut 
fine,  and  a  little  salt;  put  diese  ingredients 
into  a  saucepan,  widi  a  bit  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour;  let  it  stew  a  little,  and  serve  it  up 
with  your  mutton  or  beef. 

SHARP,    FOR    VENISON. 


Put  into  a  silver,  or  very  clean  and  vvell- 
tinned  saucepan,  half  a  pint  of  the  best 
white  wiue  vinegar,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar  pounded:  set  it  over  the 
fire,  and  let  it  simmer  gently ;  skim  it  care- 
fully ;  pour  it  through  a  tamis  or  fine  sieve, 
and  send  it  up  in  a  basin. 

Obs. — 'Some  people  like  this  better  than 
the  sweet  wine  sauces. 

-  SHRIMP.  (1)  Pick  some  shrimps 


nicely  from  the  shell,  put  them  into  melted 
butter,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle 
and  vinegar;  heat  it. 


SHRIMP.    (2)   Shell  a  pint  of 

shrimps;  pick  them  clean,  wash  them,  and 
put  diem  into  half  a  pint  of  good  melted 
butter.  A  pint  of  unshelled  shrimps  is  about 
enough  for  four  persons. 

06s, — Some  stew  the  heads  and  shells 
of  the  shrimps,  (with  or  without  a  blade 
of  bruised  mace),  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
and  strain  off  tlie  liquor  to  melt  the  butter 
with,  and  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  cayenne, 
and  essence  of  anchovy,  or  soy,  cavice, 
&c. ;  but  the  flavor  of  the  shrimp  is  sp  deli- 
cate, that  it  will  be  overcome  by  any  such 
additions. 

Mem. — If  your  shrimps  are  not  quite 
fresh,  they  will  eat  tough  and  thready,  as 
other  stale  fish  do. 

SORREL.    (1)  Pick  and  wash 


some  sorrel,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  lit- 
tle water,  stir  it,  to  prevent  its  burning,  and 
when  it  is  tender,  drain  and  mince  it  finely; 
fry  it  for  half  an  hour  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
little  buttfr,  then  dredge  in  a  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  moisten  it  with  boiling  cream,  and 
let  it  stew  on  a  slow  fire  for  an  hour ;  add  a 
little  salt,  and  if  too  acid,  a  little  sugar. 
Before  serving,  diicken  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  four  eggs. 

SORREL.    (2)    Pick  and  thor- 


oughly wash  two  double  handfuls  of  young 


sorrel,  well  drain  it  from  water,  and  then  pOt 
it  into  a  stewpan,  well  covered  with  a  bit  of 
butter,  and  let  it  stew  verj'  gently  over  a  slow 
fire ;  when  done,  put  it  to  drain  on  a  sieve  for 
three  minutes,  then,  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
rub  it  through  a  tammy  into  a  dish ;  put  it 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  bit  of  butter,  stir- 
ring it  over  the  fire  till  thoroughly  mixed; 
you  may  add,  if  you  choose,  three  spoon- 
fuls of  good  consomme,  and  when  it  has 
boiled  for  a  few  minutes,  add  to  it  half  as 
much  cream  sauce  as  there  is  sorrelj  and  if 
necessary  season  with  a  little  salt ;  this  is 
pi-oper  for  a  fricandeau  of  veal  or  entrees 
of  fish. 


SUPERLATIVE.     Claret,  or 

Port  wine,  and  mushroom  ketchup,  a  pint  of 
each.  Haifa  pint  of  walnut  or  odier  pickle 
liquor.  Pounded  anchovies,  four  ounces. 
Fresh  lemon-peel,  pared  very  thin,  an  ounce. 
Peeled  and  sliced  eschalots,  the  same. 
Scraped  horseradish,  ditto.  Allspice,  and 
black  pepper  powdered,  half  an  ounce  each. 
Cayenne,  one  drachm,  or  curry-powder, 
three  drachms.  Celery-seed  bruised,  one 
drachm.  All  avoirdupois  weight.  Put 
these  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  stop  it 
close,  shake  it  up  eveiy  day  for  a  fortnight, 
and  strain  it  (when  some  think  it  improved 
by  the  addition  of  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  soy, 
or  thick  browning),  and  you  will  have  a 
"delicious  double  relish."  Dr.  Kitchiner 
says,  this  composition  is  one  of  the  "  chefs 
d'cEuvre  "  of  many  experiments  he  has  made, 
for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  good  house- 
wives of  Great  Britain  to  prepare  their  own 
sauces:  it  is  equally  agreeable  with  fish, 
game,  poultry,  or  ragouts,  &c.,  and  as  a 
fair  lady  may  make  it  herself,  its  relish  will 
lie  not  a  little  aun[inented,  by  the  certainty 
that  all  die  ingredients  are  good  and  whole- 
some. 

Obs. — Under  an  infinity  of  circumstances, 
a  cook  may  be  in  want  of  the  substances  ne- 
cessary to  make  sauce:  the  above  composi- 
tion of  the  several  articles  from  which  the 
various  gravies  derive  their  flavor,  will  be 
found  a  very  admirable  extemporaneous  sub- 
stitute. By  mixing  a  large  table-spoonful 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thickened  melted 
butter,  or  broth,  five  minutes  will  finish  a 
boat  of  very  relishing  sauce,  nearly  equal  to 
drawn  gravy,  and  as  likely  to  put  your  lin- 
gual nerves  into  good  humor  as  any  thing  1 
know. 

To  make  a  boat  of  sauce  for  poultry,  &c. 
put  a  piece  of  butter  about  as  big  as  an  egg 
into  a  stewpan,  set  it  on  die  fire;  when  it 
is  melted,  put  to  it  a  table-spoonful  of  flour; 
stir  it  thoroughly  together,  and  add  to  it 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  sauce,  and  by  degrees 
about  half  a  pint  of  broth,  or  boiling  water, 
let  it  simmer  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  a 


SAUCES 


192 


SAUCES 


few  minutes,  skim  it  and  strain  it  through  a 
«ieve,  and  it  is  ready. 


FOR  STEAKS,  CHOPS,  OR 

CUTLETS.  Take  your  chops  out  of  tlie 
frying-pan;  for  a  pound  of  meat  keep  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  the  fat  in  the  pan,  or  put  in 
about  an  ounce  of  butter;  put  to  it  as  much 
jflour  as  will  make  it  a  paste;  rub  it  well 
together  over  the  fire  till  they  are  a  little 
brown ;  then  add  as  much  boiling  water  as 
will  reduce  it  to  the  thickness  of  good  cream, 
and  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  or  walnut 
ketchup,  or  pickle,  or  browning;  let  it  boil 
together  a  few  minutes,  and  pom*  it  through 
a  sieve  to  the  steaks,  &c. 

Obs. — To  the  above  is  sometimes  added 
a  sliced  onion,  or  a  minced  eschalot,  with 
a  table-spoonful  of  Port  wine,  or  a  little 
eschalot  wine.  Garnish  witli  finely-scraped 
horseradish,  or  pickled  walnuts,  gherkins, 
&c.  Some  beef-eaters  like  chopped  escha- 
lots in  one  saucer,  and  horseradish  grated 
in  vinegar,  in  another.  Broiled  mushrooms 
are  favorite  relishes  to  beef  steaks. 

SWEET,  FOR  VENISON  OR 


HARE.  Put  some  currant  jelly  into  a 
stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted,  pour  it  into  a 
sauce-boat. 

N.  B. — Many  send  it  to  table  without 
melting. 

This  is  a  more  salubrious  relish  than 
either  spice  or  salt,  when  the  palate  pro- 
tests agiiinst  animal  food  unless  its  flavor  be 
masked.  Currant  jelly  is  a  good  accom- 
paniment to  roasted  or  hashed  meats. 

SWEET.     Put  some  cinnamon 


into  a  saucepan,  with  as  much  water  as 
will  cover  it;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
has  boiled  up  once  or  twice,  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  powder  sugar,  a  (quarter  of  a  pint 
of  white  wme,  and  two  bay-leaves;  give 
the  whole  one  boil,  and  then  strain  it  for 
table. 


TARTARE.  Pound  in  a  mor- 
tar three  hard  yolks  of  eggs ;  put  them  into 
a  basin,  and  add  half  a  table-spoonful  of 
made  mustard,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ; 
pour  to  it  by  degrees,  stirring  it  fast  all  the 
while,  about  two  wine-glassfuls  of  salad  oil; 
stir  it  together  till  it  comes  to  a  good  thick- 
ness. 

N.  B. — A  little  tarragon  or  chen'il  minc- 
ed very  fine,  and  a  little  vinegar,  may  be 
added. 


TOMATA.     See  Tomata. 

TOURNEE.    To  a  little  white 

thickening  add  some  stock  driwn  from  the 
trimmings  of  veal,   poulti-y,   and   ham ;  do 


not  make  it  too  thick.  Boil  it  slowly  with 
a  few  mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and 
some  green  onions ;  strain  and  skim  it  well, 
and  use  it  as  required.  German  sauce  is 
made  as  the  sauce  toumee,  adding  tlie  beat- 
en yolks  of  two  or  more  eggs,  and  is  used 
for  ragouts,  fricassees,  and  any  made  dish 
which  may  require  a  rich  white  sauce. 


WHITE.     Thicken  half 


pmt 


of  ci-eam  with  a  litile  flour  and  butter,  four 
shallots  minced,  a  little  mace  and  lemon- 
peel;  let  it  boil,  and  a  little  l^efore  serving, 
add  a  spoonful  of  white  wine,  the  well-beaten 
yolk  of  an  egg,  the  scjueeze  of  a  lemon,  and 
a  tea-spoonful  of  anchovy  liquor.  This  sauce 
will  answer  for  boiled  fowls,  or  for  a  fricas- 


WHITE,  FOR  FOWLS  OR 

TURKEY.  Put  on,  in  a  quart  of  water, 
the  necks  of  fowls,  a  piece  of  the  scrag-end 
of  a  neck  of  mutton,  two  blades  of  mace, 
twelve  peppercorns,  one  anchovy,  a  small 
head  of  celeiy,  a  slice  from  off"  the  end  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  cover  it 
closely,  and  let  it  boil  till  reduced  to  nearly 
half  a  pint;  strain,  and  put  to  it  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  dredged  with  flour ;  let 
it  boil  for  five  minutes,  and  then  add  two 
spoonfiils  of  pickled  mushrooms.  Mix  with 
a  tea-cupful  of  cream,  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  and  some  grated  nutmeg;  stir 
this  in  gradually,  and  shake  the  pan  over 
the  fire  till  it  is  all  quite  hot,  but  do  not  al- 
low it  to  boil. 


WHITE     ITALIAN. 


Peel 


some  mushrooms,  jtnd  throw  them  into  a 
little  water  and  lemon-juice,  to  keep  them 
white.  Put  into  a  stewpan  two-diirds  of 
sauce  tournee,  and  one-third  of  good  veal 
stock,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  finely -chopped 
mushrooms,  and  half  a  table-spoonful  of 
washed  and  chopped  shallots ;  let  it  boil  till 
well  flavored,  and  then  serve  it.  Tlie 
mushrooms  should  be  as  white  as  possible. 

WHITE   SHARP.    Boil  with 


a  little  taiTagon,  or-  tarragon  vinegar,  if  the 
tarragon  is  not  to  be  had,  four  table-spoon- 
fijls  of  white  wine  vinegar,  and  about  twen- 
ty peppercorns;  reduce  this  to  one-fourth, 
and  add  it  to  six  table-spoonfuls  of  sauce- 
tournee,  and  two  of  good  stock ;  boil  and 
strain  it;  put  it  again  on  the  fire, and  thick- 
en it  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
small  bit  of  butter,  a  little  salt  and  cayenne. 
Just  before  serving,  stir  in  a  spoonful  of 
cream. 


WHITE,  FOR  BoiLKD  Fowls. 

Melt  in  a  tea-cupful  of  milk  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  kneaded  in  flour,  beat  up 


SAU 


193 


SAU 


the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  a  tea-spoonful  of 
cream,  stir  it  into  the  butter,  and  heat  it 
over  the  fire,  stirring  it  constantly;  chop- 
ped parsley  improves  tliis  sauce.  It  also 
may  be  made  by  melting  the  butter  with 
water,  and  mixing  milk  with  the  egg. 

SAUCE,  WINE,  FOR  VENISON  OR 
HARE.  A  quarter  of  a  pint  of  claret  or 
Port  wine,  the  same  quantity  of  plain,  un- 
flavored  mutton  gravy,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  currant  jelly:  let  it  just  boil  up,  and  send 
it  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

SAUCE,  WOW  WOW,  FOR  Stewed 
OR  BouiLLi  Beef.  Chop  some  parsley- 
lejives  very  fine;  quarter  two  or-  thiee  pickled 
cucumbers,  or  walnuts,  and  divide  them  into 
small  squares,  and  set  them  by  ready:  put 
into  a  saucepan  a  bit  of  butler  as  big  as  an 
egg;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  to  it  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fine  flour,  and  about  half  a  pint 
of  the  broth  in  which  die  beef  was  boiled; 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegai-,  the  like 
quantity  of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  Port  wine, 
or  both,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard  ; 
let  it  sinuner  together  till  it  is  as  thick  as 
you  wish  it;  put  in  the  parsley  and  pickles 
to  get  warm,  and  pour  it  over  the  beef;  or 
i-ather  send  it  up  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

06s. — If  you  think  the  above  not  sufficient- 
ly piquante,  add  to  it  some  capers,  or  a 
minced  eschalot,  or  one  or  two  tea-spoonfuls 
of  eschalot  wine,  or  essence  of  anchovy,  or 
basil,  elder,  or  tarragon,  or  horseradish,  oi' 
burnet  vinegar;  or  strew  over  the  meat  car- 
rots and  turnips  cut  into  dice,  minced  capers, 
walnuts,  red  cabbage,  pickled  cucumljers,  or 
Frencii  beans,  &c. 

SAUSAGES,  (1)  Are  composed  of  va- 
rious kinds  of  meat,  chopped  exceedingly 
small,  with  pounded  spices,  and  aromatic 
herbs,  shred  fine;  these  ingredients  are  put 
into  skins,  or  guts  (thoroughly  washed),  and 
tied  into  lengths  of  fiom  two  to  five  inches. 
Some  persons  add  to  the  mixture  a  glass 
of  Rhenish,  Champagne,  Madeira,  or  other 
wine. 

SAUSAGES,  (2)  Are  best  when  quite 
fresh  made.  Put  a  bit  of  butter,  or  dripping 
into  a  clean  frying-pan;  as  soon  as  it  is 
melted  (before  it  gets  hot)  put  in  the  sausa- 
ges, and  shake  the  pan  for  a  minute,  and 
keep  turning  them  (be  careful  not  to  break 
or  prick  them  in  so  doing) ;  fry  them  over  a 
very  slow  fire  till  they  are  nicely  browned 
on  all  sides ;  when  they  are  done,  lay  them 
on  a  hair  sieve,  placed  before  the  fire  for  a 
couple  of  minutes  to  drain  the  fat  from  them. 
The  secret  of  frying  sausages  is,  to  let  them 
get  hot  very  gradually;  they  then  will  not 
burst,  if  they  ai-e  not  stale.  The  common 
17 


practice  to  prevent  their  bursting,  istopi^id: 
them  with  a  fork;  but  this  lets  the  gravy 
out.  You  may  froth  them  by  rubbing  them 
with  cold  fresh  butter,  and  lightly  dredge 
them  with  flour,  and  put  them  in  a  cheeee- 
toaster  or  Dutch  oven  for  a  minute.  Sonae 
over-economical  cooks  insist  that  no  butler 
or  lard,  &c.  is  required,  their  owd  fat 
Ixiing  sufficient  to  fry  them :  we  have  tried 
it;  the  sausages  were  partially  scorched, 
and  had  that  piebald  appearance  that  all 
filed  things  have  when  sufficient  fat  is  not 
allowed. 

Obs. — Poached  eggs,  pease  pudding,  and 
mashed  potatoes,  are  agreeable  accompani- 
ments to  sausages ;  and  sausages  are  as  wel- 
come boiled  with  roasted  poultry  or  veal,  or 
boiled  tripe;  so  are  ready-dressed  German 
sausages;  and  a  convenient,  easily  digestible, 
and  invigorating  food  for  the  aged,  and  those 
whose  teeth  are  defective. 

N.  B. — Sausages,  when  finely  chopped, 
are  a  delicate  "  bonne  bouche;"  and  require 
very  little  assistance  fi'om  the  tcedi  to  render 
them  quite  ready  for  the  stomach. 

SAUSAGES.  (3)  Take  a  pound  of 
(he  inward  fat  of  the  pig,  and  half  a  pound 
of  lean  pork ;  pick  tliem  both  from  skin  and 
sinews,  mince  them  very  finely,  grate  a  large 
nutmeg,  take  its  weight  of  pounded  mace 
and  cloves,  the  largest  proportion  mace,  the 
weight  of  all  of  pepper,  and  twice  the  weight 
of  the  spices  of  salt ;  chop  finely  a  few  sage 
leaves  and  a  little  lemon  thyme ;  mix  all  well 
together  wiUi  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of 
grated  bread  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten. 
It  may  be  put  into  skins,  or  packed  into  a 
jar  and  tied  closely  with  bladder.  When 
to  be  used,  moisten  it  with  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  beaten,  make  it  up  in  the  form  of  sausa- 
ges, flour  them,  and  fly  them  in  butter. 

SAUSAGES,  BEEF  AND  OYSTER. 
See  Beef. 

SAUSAGES,  TO  MAKE.  Chop  to- 
gether two  pounds  of  lean  pork,  and  one 
and  a  half  of  the  inward  fat  of  the  pig,  the 
crumb  of  a  penny  loaf  cut  into  slices  and 
soaked  in  cold  water;  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  grated  nutmeg,  lemon  thyme,  and  a 
little  sage.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  well, 
and  half  fill  the  skins ;  boil  them  half  an 
hour. 

SAUSAGES,  BOLOGNA.  Take  the 
legs  and  shoulders  of  a  pig,  from  which  cut 
all  the  lean,  scrape  it  well,  remove  all  the 
sinews,  and  rub  the  meat  well  with  a  sea- 
soning made  of  salt,  pepper,  coriander, 
cloves,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  bay-leaf. 
When  properly  flavored,  take  some  bacon, 
lard,  and  leaf,  and  cut  the  whole  uito  dice ; 


SAT 


194 


SCO 


Biix  the  fat  and  lean  together,  and  put  it  in- 
to ox-guts,  tie  up  the  ends,  and  lay  the 
sausages  in  a  pan  of  water,  with  salt,  and 
saltpetre;  cover  the  pan  close,  and  leave  it. 
In  a  week's  time  take  out  the  sausages 
and  drain  them.  Tie  them  between  two 
pieces  of  wood,  hang  them  up  to  dry,  and 
smoke.  When  dry,  untie  tliera,  and  rub 
each  over  with  oil,  and  the  ashes  of  vine- 
twigs,  mixed  together.  Keep  diem  in  a 
dry  place. 

SAUSAGES,  ROYAL.  Mince  small 
the  meat  of  a  partridge,  a  capon,  or  pullet, 
a  piece  of  gammon,  and  other  bacon,  and 
a  bit  of  leg  of  veal ;  shred  also  some  parsley, 
chives,  truflSes,  and  mushrooms;  mix  these 
all  together,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
beaten  spice,  and  garlic;  bind  the  whole 
with  the  yolks  of  six,  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
and  a  little  cream ;  when  thoroughly  mixed, 
roll  the  preparation  into  tliick  pieces,  which 
wrap  in  very  thin  slices  of  fillet  of  veal,  well 
beaten  with  a  rolling-pin;  each  sausage 
should  be  about  the  thickness  of  a  man's 
wrist,  and  of  proportionate  length  Line  an 
oval  stewpan  with  slices  of  bacon  and  thin 
beef  steaks,  put  in  the  sausages,  cover  them 
with  beef  steaks  and  bacon,  shut  the  stew- 
pan  very  close,  and  set  it  on  a  moderate 
fire,  put  hot  embers  on  the  lid,  and  let  it 
stand  ten  or  twelve  hours ;  then  take  it  off, 
and  when  cold,  take  out  the  sausages  care- 
fully, I'emove  the  veal,  and  all  the  fat,  with 
a  a^trp  knife  cut  them  into  slices,  and  serve 
cold. 

SAUSAGES,  SPREADBURY'S.  Cut 
from  the  leg  or  griskin  one  pound  of  nice 
lean  pork,  free  from  sinews  and  skin,  mince 
it  very  finely  :  mince  one  pound  of  the  best 
beef  suet,  mix  it  with  the  pork,  and  pound 
it  as  finely  as  possible  in  a  marble  mortar ; 
add  two  large  table-spooiifuls  of  stale  bread 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  also  a  good  deal  of 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  sage, 
mix  all  together  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
beaten  up.  It  will  keep  for  sometime,  if 
put  into  an  earthen  jar  and  pressed  closely 
down.  When  it  is  to  be  used,  make  it  into 
rolls,  and  as  thick  as  common  sausages,  and 
tluree  or  four  inches  long:  dust  them  with  a 
little  flour;  have  ready  a  frying-pan  made 
very  hot,  and  fry  them  without  any, thing 
but  their  own  fat,  till  tliey  are  done  quite 
tlirough,  taking  care  not  to  make  them  too 
dry.  By  breaking  one  of  them,  the  cook 
will  know  whetlier  they  are  sufficiently 
done.  They  may  be  fried  in  lard  or  fresn 
beef  di'ipping. 

SAVORY  CABBAGE.   See  Cabbage, 

SAVOY  BISCUITS.    To  he  made  as 


drop  biscuits,  omitting  the  caraways,  and 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour:  put  it  into  the 
biscuit-funnel,  and  lay  it  out  about  the  length 
and  size  of  your  finger,  on  common  shop 
paper ;  strew  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in 
a  hot  oven ;  when  cold,  wet  the  backs  of  tlie 
paper  with  a  paste-brush  and  water:  when 
they  have  lain  sometime,  take  them  carefully 
off,  and  place  tiiem  back  to  back. 

SAVOYS,  Are  boiled  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  cabbages;  quarter  them  when  you 
send  them  to  table. 

SCOTCH  BARLEY  BROTH  ;~a  good 
and  substantial  dinner  for  sixpence  per 
head.  Wash  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
Scotch  barley  in  a  little  cold  water ;  put  it 
in  a  soup-pot  with  a  shin  or  leg  of  beef,  of 
alx>ut  ten  pounds  weight,  sawed  into  four 
pieces  (tell  the  butcher  to  do  this  for  you) ; 
cover  it  well  with  cold  water ;  set  it  on  the 
fire:  when  it  boils  skim  it  very  clean,  and 
put  in  two  onions  of  about  three  ounces 
weight  each ;  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  very  gently  about  two  hours;  then 
skim  all  the  fat  clean  off,  and  put  in  two  heads 
of  celery,  and  a  large  turnip  cut  into  small 
squares, ;  season  it  with  salt,  and  let  it  boil 
an  hour  and  a  half  longer,  and  it  is  ready: 
take  out  the  meat  (carefully  with  a  slice, 
and  cover  it  up,  and  set  it  by  the  fire  to  keep 
warm),  and  skim  the  broth  well  before  you 
put  it  in  the  tureen. 

SCOTCH  BROSE.  This  flworite  Scotch 
dish  is  generally  made  with  the  liquor  meat 
has  been  boiled  in.  Put  half  a  pint  of  oat- 
meal into  a  porringer  with  a  little  salt,  if 
there  be  not  enough  in  the  broth,  of  which 
add  as  much  as  will  mix  it  to  the  consistence 
of  kisty  pudding,  or  a  little  thicker ;  lastly, 
take  a  little  of  the  fat  that  swims  on  the 
broth,  and  put  it  on  the  crowdie,  and  eat  it 
in  the  same  way  as  hasty-pudding. 

Obs. — This  Scotsman's  dish  is  easily  pre- 
pared at  very  little  expense,  and  is  pleasant- 
tasted  and  nutritious. 

N.  B. — For  various  methods  of  making 
and  flavoring  oatmeal  gruel,  see  Gruel. 

SCOTCH  BURGOO.  This  humble  dish 
forms  no  contemptible  article  of  food.  It 
possesses  the  grand  qualities  of  salubrity, 
pleasantness,  and  cheapness.  It  is,  in  fact, 
a  sort  of  oatmeal  hasty  pudding  without 
milk ;  much  used  by  those  patterns  of  com- 
bined industi-y,  frugality,  and  temperance, 
the  Scottish  peasanti^;  and  this,  among 
other  examples  of  the  economical  Scotch,  is 
well  woilhy  of  being  occasionally  adopted 
by  all  who  have  large  families  and  small  in- 
comes. It  is  made  in  tlie  following  easy  and 
expeditious  manner: — To  a  quart  of  oatmeal 


SCO 


195 


SHE 


add  gradually  two  quarts  of  water,  so  that 
the  whole  may  smoothly  mix :  tlien  stirring 
it  continually  over  the  fire,  boil  it  together  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  after  which,  take  it  up, 
and  stir  in  a  little  salt  and  butter,  with  or 
without  pepper.  This  quantity  will  serve  a 
family  of  five  or  six  persons  for  a  moderate 
meal. 

SCOTS  COLLOPS.  Cut  some  very 
thin  slices  of  beef;  rub  with  butter  the  bot- 
tom of  an  iron  stewpan  that  has  a  cover  to 
fit  quite  closely ;  put  in  the  meat,  some  pep- 
per, and  a  little  salt,  a  large  onion,  and  an 
apple  minced  very  small.  Cover  the  stew- 
pan,  and  let  it  simmer  till  the  meat  is  very 
tender.     Serve  it  hot. 

SCOTCH  DUMPLING.  Make  a  paste 
with  some  oatmeal  and  butter,  form  it  into 
a  dumpling,  and  place  a  haddock's  liver 
in  tlie  middle,  well  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  saltj  it  should  be  boiled  in  a  cloth. 

SCOTCH  HAGGIS.  Make  the  haggis- 
bag  perfectly  clean;  parboil  the  draught; 
boil  the  liver  very  well,  so  as  it  will  grate ; 
dry  the  meal  before  tlie  fire;  mince  the 
draught  and  a  pretty  large  piece  of  beef  veiy 
small;  grate  about  half  of  the  liver;  mince 
plenty  of  the  suet  and  some  onions  small ; 
mix  all  these  materials  very  well  together, 
with  a  handful  or  two  of  die  dried  meal; 
spread  them  on  the  table,  and  season  them 
properly  with  salt  and  mixed  spices;  take 
any  of  the  scraps  of  beef  that  are  left  from 
mincing,  and^ome  of  the  water  that  boiled 
the  draught,  and  make  about  a  choppin  (i.  e. 
a  quart)  of  good  stock  of  it ;  then  put  all  the 
haggis  meat  into  tlie  bag,  and  that  broth  in 
it ;  dien  sew  up  the  bag ;  but  be  sure  to  put 
out  all  the  wind  before  you  sew  it  quite  close. 
If  you  tliink  the  bag  is  thin,  you  may  put 
it  in  a  cloth.  If  it  is  a  large  haggis,  it  will 
take  at  least  two  hours  boiling. 

N.  B. — The  above  we  copied  verbatim 
from  Mrs.  Maciver,  a  celebrated  Caledo- 
nian professor  of  the  culinary  art,  who 
taught,  and  published  a  book  of  cookery,  at 
Edinburgh,  A.  D.  1787. 

SCOTS  KALE.  Put  bailey  on  in  cold 
water,  and  when  it  boils  take  oflf  the  scum, 
put  in  any  piece  of  fresh  beef,  and  a  little 
salt;  let  it  boil  three  hours,  have  ready  a 
cullender  full  of  kale,  cut  small  and  boil  them 
till  tender.  Two  or  three  leeks  may  be  ad- 
ded with  the  greens,  if  the  flavor  is  approved 
of.  This  broth  is  also  made  with  salted 
beef,  which  must  be  put  in  water  over  night 
to  soak. 

SCOTCH  SHORT  BREAD.  Take 
two  pounds  of  flour,  dry,  and  sift  it  well; 


then  mix  with  it  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
three  ounces  of  candied  citron  and  orange- 
peel  cut  into  dice,  and  half  a  pound  of  cara- 
way comfits ;  put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  quite 
melted,  mix  it  with  the  flour,  &c. ;  the  paste 
being  nicely  made,  roll  it  out  to  the  thicloiess 
of  half  an  inch,  cut  it  into  cakes,  lay  tliem 
on  white  paper,  prick  and  bake  them ;  they 
should  be  of  a  pale  color. 

SEA  CALE,  BOILED.  Let  it  lie  some- 
time in  cold  water,  then  clean  and  trim  it 
nicely,  cutting  off  any  part  that  may  be  at 
all  green,  and  parting  it  as  little  as  possi- 
ble. Put  it  on  in  boiling  water,\vith  a  lit- 
tle salt.  Let  it  boil  half  an  hour ;  drain  off 
the  water.  Pare  the  crust  off  a  slice  of 
toasted  bread,  lay  it  in  the  dish,  pour  over 
it  a  little  melted  butter,  and  serve  the  cafe 
upon  it. 

SEED  CAKE.  Sift  two  and  a  half 
pounds  of  flour,  with  half  a  pound  of  good 
white  or  loaf  sugar,  pounded  into  a  pan  or 
bowl ;  make  a  cavity  in  the  centre,  and  pour 
in  half  a  pint  of  lukewarm  milk,  and  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  thick  yeast;  mix  the  milk 
and  yeast  with  enough  flour  to  make  it  as 
thick  as  cream  (ihis  is  called  setting  a 
sponge) ;  set  it  by  in  a  warm  place  for  one 
hour;  in  the  meantime,  melt  to  an  oil  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  add  it  to  the  other 
ingredients,  with  one  ounce  of  caraway- 
seeds,  and  enough  of  milk  to  make  it  of  a 
middling  stfffness ;  line  a  hoop  with  paper, 
well  rubbed  over  with  butter;  put  in  the 
mixture ;  set  it  sometime  to  prove  in  a  stove, 
or  before  the  fire,  and  bake  it  on  a  plate 
about  an  hour,  in  rather  a  hot  oven ;  when 
done,  rub  the  top  over  with  a  paste-brush 
dipped  in  milk. 

SHEEP'S    KIDNEYS,     BROILED. 

Wash  and  dry  some  nice  kidneys,  cut  them 
in  half  and  with  a  small  skewer  keep  them 
open  in  imitation  of  two  shells,  season  them 
vyith  salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  them  into  a 
little  fresh  melted  butter.  Broil  first  the  side 
that  is  cut,  and  be  careful  not  to  let  the  gravy 
drop  in  taking  them  off  the  gridiron.  Serve 
them  in  a  hot  dish,  with  finely-chopped  pars- 
ley mixed  with  melted  butter,  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  pepper  and  salt,  putting  a  little  upon 
each  kidney.  This  is  an  excellent  break- 
fast for  a  sportsman. 

SHEEP'S  LIVER.  Cut  it  into  slices; 
wash  it  well,  and  dry  it  in  a  cloth;  flour 
and  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry 
it  in  butter,  with  a  good  deal  of  minced 
parsley  and  an  onion ;  add  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  gravy  or  hot  water  to  make  a  sauce, 
and  let  it  stew  a  few  minutes.     It  may  be 


SHE 


1^6 


SHR 


fried  quite  plain,  and  when  cut  into  slices, 
should  be  washed  in  milk  and  water. 

SHEEP'S  MI^^CE.  Wash  the  heart 
and  lights  veiy  clean ;  boil  them  about  half, 
an  hour ;  mince  tiiem  finely ;  mix  a  piece  of 
butter  with  flour,  brown  it  in  a  stewpan,  and 
add  some  of  the  liquor  tlie  heart  and  lights 
were  boiled  in.  Put  in  the  mince  with  some 
chopped  onion ;  season  with  salt  and  jiepper, 
cover  it  closely,  and  let  it  stew  half  an  hour. 
Before  serving,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup. 

SHEEP'S  TONGUES,  BROILED. 
Having  pat'boiled  the  tongues  in  a  little 
stock,  split  each,  give  them  a  few  turns  in 
some  melted  bacon,  strewing  over  them  salt, 
pepper,  shred  parsley,  and  bread  crumljs; 
when  well  covered  with  the  latter,  lay  them 
on  a  gridiron,  and  broil  tliem  slowly. 

SHEEP'S   TONGUES  PIE.    Line  a 

diah  with  some  good  puff  paste,  and  lay  at 
the  bottom  of  the  dish  some  good  forcemeat, 
made  of  roasted  poultry,  suet,  parsley  chop- 
ped, mushrooms,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  few 
fine  spices;  upon  this  place  the  tongues  cut 
in  two,  and  upon  them  a  good  slice  of  ham, 
a  little  butter,  and  a  few  slices  of  bacon; 
put  on  the  cover  and  bake  it ;  when  done, 
take  out  tlie  bacon  and  ham,  skim  off  all  the 
fat,  and  pour  on  it  what  sauce  you  please. 

SHEEP'S    TONGUES     ROASTED. 

Take  half  a  dozen  sheep's  tongues,  and  hav- 
ing properly  prepared  them,  lard  them  with 
small  lardons,  tie  them  to  a  skewer,  wrap 
a  buttered  paper  round,  and  fasten  them  on 
a  spit,  and  roast  tliem  before  a  moderate 
fire ;  a  little  Ijefore  they  are  done,  take  off 
the  paper,  baste  the  tongues  with  butter, 
and  make  them  of  a  nice  color.  Serve  witli 
whatever  sauce  you  may  prefer. 

SHEEP'S  TROTTERS  STUFFED. 
Boil  the  feet  in  good  stock  till  the  bones 
will  come  out  with  ease ;  fill  the  space  lefl 
by  them  with  a  good  fowl  or  chicken  farce; 
dip  them  in  lard,  bread  them  well,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven.  The  space  left  by  tlie 
bones  is  sometimes  filled  up  with  a  bit  of 
fi"ied  bread ;  in  diis  case  the  feet  are  only 
previously  boiled,  and  then  served  with 
;     cream  sauce. 

.  SHEEP'S  TROTTERS  FRIED.  Oean 
some  sheep's  trottei-s  nicely,  scald  and  wash 
them  in  hot  water ;  stew  them  in  that  sauce 
in  which  calf's  head  plain  is  boiled, 
and  bone  them.  Fry,  Ijut  not  till  brown, 
in  a  little  butter,  some  carrots,  onions,  a 
little  parsley  roots,  all  cut  small,  thyme,  a 
shallot,  a  small  bay  leaf,  and  a  clove.    When 


they  l^egin  to  color,  moisten  them  with  wa- 
ter and  vinegar  mixed  in  ecjual  parts,  and  let 
it  all  stew  till  the  vegetables  are  quite  ten- 
der ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  strain 
it  through  a  silk  sieve  over  the  sheep's  trot- 
ters, then  fry  the  trotters  in  this  batter;  put 
nearly  four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  into  an 
earthen  pan,  with  a  little  salt,  a  little  olive 
oil,  and  as  much  good  beer  or  water  as  will 
moisten  the  paste;  when  well  mixed,  add 
the  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  dip  the  trot- 
tei-s  into  this,  and  fry  them  instantly.  The 
marinade  cuile,  or  pickle,  into  which  the 
trotteis  are  laid,  and  the  paste  in  whi(;h  they 
are  fried,  may  be  used  for  beef,  and  other 
meats.  I'he  same  receipt  may  be  followed 
exactly  for  calf's  feet. 

SHERBET.  This  is  a  delicious  bever- 
age, composed  of  cream,  mixed  with  various 
articles,  such  as  almonds,  tea,  pistachios, 
coffee,  chocolate,  &c.,  and  sugar,  and  then 
iced.  Sherliet  may  also  be  made  with  the 
juice  of  various  fruits,  sweetened  to  the 
taste.  When  the  liquid  is  sufficiently  lim- 
pid and  cold,  pour  it  into  a  silver,  or  tin 
sorbetiere,  and  ice  it  as  usual. 

SHERBET,  TURKISH.  Wash  a  small 
fore  quarter  of  veal,  put  it  on  the  fire  with 
nine  pints  of  water;  skim  it  well,  and  let  it 
boil  till  reduced  to  two  pints;  run  it  through 
a  sieve,  and  when  cold,  add  to  it  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  clear  lemon-juice,  and  two  pounds 
of  loaf  sugar  which  has  been  made  into  a 
sirup  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and 
cleared  with  the  white  of  an  egg.  It  is 
served  in  glass  mugs  for  a  dessert  table,  or 
offered  at  any  other  time  as  a  refreshment. 


SHRUB.  (1)  One  measure  of  lemon- 
juice  is  allowed  to  five  of  rum,  and  to  every 
gallon  of  the  mixture,  six  pounds  of  loaf  su- 
gar, which  is  to  be  melted  in  water,  and  the 
whole  strained  tlirough  flannel. 

SHRUB.  (2)  To  one  part  of  lemon- 
juice,  three  of  good  orange  are  allowed, 
and,  to  every  pint  of  juice,  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  very  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar ;  these 
being  well  mixed,  it  is  put  into  a  cask,  and 
one  tjuart  of  the  best  rum  added  to  each  pint 
of  the  juice ;  the  whole  to  be  shaken  three 
times  a-day  for  a  fortnight,  or  longer,  if  tlie 
cask  be  large.  It  is  then  allowed  to  stand 
to  fine  for  a  month,  or  till  it  lie  sufficiently 
clear  to  bottle.  The  dregs  may  be  made 
into  excellent  milk  punch,  by  pouring  wann, 
but  not  boiling,  milk  on  them,  allowing  three 
parts  of  milk  to  one  of  dregs;  after  being 
well  mixed,  it  is  fit  for  use. 

SHRUB.  (3)  Put  a  quart  of  Seville 
orange-juice  to  a  gallon  of  rum,  with  three 


SIR 


197 


SKA 


pounds  of  lump  sugar,  and  a  handful  of  the 
peel  pkred  extremely  thin ;  let  it  stand  in  the 
cask  for  three  months,  then  filter  it  through 
a  clodi,  and  bottle  it. 

SHRUB.  (4)  Take  a  quart  of  orange- 
juice,  strain  it,  put  to  it  two  pounds  of  lump  j 
sugar,  four  quarts  and  one  pint  of  rum ;  put  j 
half  the  peels  of  the  oranges  into  the  rum,  \ 
and  let  it  stand  one  nigfit,  then  mix  the  rum  I 
with  the  orange-juice  and  sugar,  put  it  into  | 
a  vessel  which  has  a  spigot,  shake  it  four  or  j 
five  times  daily  till  the  sugar  be  all  dissolved ;  | 
when  it  is  clear,  which  may  be  in  about  a  I 
fortnight,  bottle  it  off  for  use.  If  the  or-  i 
anges  are  very  ripe,  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
sugar  is  sufficient. 

SHRUB,  LEMON  OR  ORANGE.  The 

rind  of  the  lemons  or  oranges  being  grated 
ofl',  they  are  to  be  squeezed,  and  two  pounds 
of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar  is  to  be  added  \ 
to  every  pint  of  the  strained  juice ;  when  the  j 
sugar  is  quite  dissolved,  two  pints  of  rum  ' 
are  allowed  to  every  pint  of  sirup ;  the  whole  i 
is  to  be  well  mixed  in  a  cask,  and  allowed 
to  stand  five  or  six  weeks,  and  then  drawn  ! 
oflf.  ! 

SHRUB,  WHITE   CURRANT.    The 

currants  are  to  be  bruised  and  put  into  a 
bag  to  drip;  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
loaf  sugar  is  to  be  dissolved  in  two  quarts 
of  juice,  and  a  quart  of  rum  being  added,  it 
is  to  be  bottled  for  use. 

SIRUP  OF  CURRANTS,  RASPBER- 
RIES, OR  Mulberries.  Pick  the  fruit 
from  the  stalks ;  squeeze  the  juice,  and  let  it 
stand  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  or  till  the  fer- 
mentation ceases,  which  may  be  known  by 
the  scum  cracking;  carefully  take  off  the 
scum,  and  pour  the  juice  gently  into  a  fresh 
vessel;  let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours,  and 
again  pour  it  off,  to  one  pound  of  pounded 
loaf  sugar  allow  thirteen  ounces  of  the  juice, 
put  it  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  when  it  be- 
gins to  boil,  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag, 
and  bottle  it  when  cold.  Burie  pears  6oiled, 
in  a  little  of  the  sirup,  are  beautiful.. 

SIRUP  OF  ORANGE  OR  LEMON 
PEEL.  Of  fresh  outer  rind  of  Seville  orange 
or  lemon  peel,  three  ounces,  ajpothecaries' 
weight ;  boiling  water  a  pint  and  a  half;  in- 
fuse them  for  a  night  in  a  close  vessel ;  then 
strain  the  liquor:  let  it  stand  to  settle;  and 
having  poured  it  off  clear  from  the  sediment, 
dissolve  in  it  two  pounds  of  double-refined 
loaf  sugar,  and  make  it  into  a  sirap  with  a 
gentle  heat. 

Obs. — In  making  this  sirup,  if  the  sugar 
be  dissolved  in  the  infusion  w  ith  as  gentle  a 
heat  as  possible,  to  prevent  the  exlialation 
*   17* 


of.  the  volatile  parts  of  the  peel,  this  sirup 
will  possess  a  great  share  of  the  tine  flavor 
of  tlie  orange  or  lemon  ped. 

SIRUP,  CLARIFIED.  Break  into  bits 
two  pounds  (avoirdupois)  of  double-refined 
lump  sugar,  and  put  it  into  a  clean  stewpan 
(that  is  well  tinned),  with  a  pint  of  cold 
spring  water;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
set  it  over  a  moderate  fire:  beat  about  half 
the  white  of  an  egg,  put  it  to  the  sugar  be- 
fore it  gets  waiTO,  and  stir  it  well  together. 
Watch  it;  and  when  it  boils  take  off  the 
scum ;  keep  it  boiling  till  no  scum  rises,  and 
it  is  perfectly  clear;  then  run  it  through  a 
clean  napkin:  put  it  into  a  close-stopped 
bottle;  it  will  keep  for  months,  and  is  an 
elegant  article  on  the  sideboard  for  sweet- 
ening. 

Obs. — The  proportion  of  sugar  ordered  in 
the  above  sirup  is  a  quarter  pound  more  than 
that  directed  in  the  Pharmacopoeia  of  the 
London  College  of  Physicians.  The  quanti- 
ty of  sugar  must  be  as  much  as  the  liquor  is 
capable  of  keeping  dissolved  when  cold,  or 
it  will  ferment,  and  quickly  spoil:  if  kept  in 
a  temperate  degree  of  heat,  the  above  pro- 
portion of  sugar  may  be  considered  the  basis 
of  all  sirups. 

SKATE,  FRIED.  After  you  have 
cleaned  the  fish,  divide  it  into  fillets;  dry 
them  on  a  clean  cloth ;  beat  the  yolk  and 
white  of  an  egg  thoroughly  together,  dip  tlie 
fish  in  this,  and  then  in  fine  bread-crumbs; 
fi-y  it  in  hot  lard  or  drippings  till  it  is  of  a 
delicate  brown  color;  lay  it  on  a  hair  sieve 
to  drain;  garnish  with  crisp  parsley,  and 
some  like  caper  sauce,  with  an  anchovy 
in  it. 

SKATE,  TO  CRIMP.  Skin  the  skate 
on  both  sides,  cut  it  an  inch  and  a  half 
broad,  and  as  long  as  the  skate,  roll  up  each 
piece  and  tie  it  with  a  thread ;  lay  them  for 
three  hours  in  siilt  and  water,  and  a  little 
vinegar ;  boil  them  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling 
salt  and  water ;  before  serving,  cut  off  the 
threads.  Sauces: — shrimp,  butter  and  an- 
chovy. When  the  skate  are  very  small,  they 
are  preferable  broiled. 

SKATE,  LARGE,  DRESSED  LIKE 

Veal  Cutlets.  Crimp,  or  cut  the  skate 
in  square  pieces,  roll  them  in  beaten  eggs, 
and  then  in  grated  bread  mixed  with  chop- 
ped parsley,  pepper,  and  salt ;  fry  them  of^a 
nice  brown  colo)-,  and  serve  witli  a  rich 
brown  gravy. 

SKATE,  STEWED.  Skin  the  skate, 
cut  it  into  sqtiare  pieces,  and  l)rown  it  with 
butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  make  a  rich  sauce 
with  the  skin  and  parings,  to  be  boiled  Iq 


SNI 


198 


SOL 


three  pints  of  water,  with  an  onion,  some 
pepper  and  salt;  strain  and  thicken  it  with 
a  little  butter  mixed  with  flour,  add  some 
very  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  chives;  of 
hot  vinegar,  mushroom  ketchup,  and  Harvey 
eauce,  a  table-spoonful  each,  and  a  little 
cayenne;  boil  it  up  and  put  it  in  tlie  skate 
five  minutes  before  serving  it. 

SKATE,  Is  very  good  when  in  good 
season,  but  no  fish  so  bad  when  it  is  other- 
wise: those  persons  that  like  it  firm  and  diy, 
should  have  it  crimped ;  but  those  that  like 
it  tender,  should  have  it  plain,  and  eat  it 
not  earlier  than  the  second  day,  and  if  cold 
weather,  three  or  four  days  old  it  is  better: 
it  cannot  be  kept  too  long,  if  perfectly  sweet. 
Young  skate  eats  very  tine  crimped  and 
fried. 

SKATE,  SMALL,  TO  FRY.  Clean, 
wash,  and  lay  them  one  or  two  hours  in  vin- 
egar, or  vinegar  and  water,  with  a  sliced 
onion,  some  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and 
salt;  drain  and  di-y  them  well,  dip  them  into 
beaten  eggs,  dredge  them  with  flour,  and  fry 
tliem  of  a  fine  brown  color ;  garnish  them 
with  fried  parsley.  Sauces ; — melted  butter, 
and  shrimp  sauce. 

SKIRRETS.  Wash  and  scrape  them, 
put  them  on  in  boiling  water,  and  boil  them 
for  ten  minutes;  di*y  them  in  a  cullender, 
and  fiy  them  brown  in  a  little  butter.  They 
are  sometimes  plain  boiled,  and  a  little  mel- 
ted butter  poured  over  them. 

SMELTS,  TO  FRY.  This  delicate  lit- 
tle fish,  when  perfectly  fresh,  must  not  be 
washed,  but  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth,  and 
dredged  with  flour,  or  brushed  over  with  a 
feather,  dipped  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beat- 
en, and  rolled  in  a  plate  of  finely-grated 
bread-crumbs,  and  fried  in  boiling  dripping, 
or  fresh  lard.  They  vaiy  in  size,  and  some 
will  be  done  sooner  than  others.  When  of 
a  clear  yellow  brown,  take  them  out  careful- 
ly, and  lay  them  before  the  fire  upon  the  back 
of  a  sieve  to  drain  and  keep  hot.  Dish 
them,  heads  and  tails  alternately;  garnish 
with  fried  parsley.  Sauce — melted  butter. 
They  may  also  l)e  broiled. 

SMELTS,  ITALIAN.  Boil  your  smelts 
with  a  large  glass  of  white  wine,  half  a  glass 
of  water,  two  spoonfuls  of  oil,  two  slices  of 
lemon,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  pinch  of  fennel. 
When  sufficiently  done,  make  a  liaison  with 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  shred  chervil,  and  serve 
your  fish  witii  its  own  sauce. 

SNIPES.  When  the  snipes  have  \>een 
picked,  they  must  be  singed  over  a  charco:il 
fire;  in  trussing  them  press  tlie  legs  close  to 


the  side,  and  pierce  the  beak  through  them; 
tie  a  slice  of  bacon  over  each  bird,  run  a  long 
iron  skewer  through  the  sides,  and  tie  ihem 
to  the  spit ;  in  the  meantime  cut  two  or  three 
slices  of  bread,  according  to  the  number  of 
the  birds,  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown  color  in 
butter;  put  the  birds  to  roast,  and  put  the 
fried  bread  in  a  dish  under  them,  to  receive 
the  inside,  which  will  drop  after  they  have 
hung  a  few  minutes^  just  before  they  are 
roasted  sufficiently,  cut  off  the  bacon,  that 
they  may  take  color.  Serve  tliem  on  the 
dish  with  the  bread  under  them,  and  plenty 
of  good  gravy.  Some  prefer  eating  tiiem 
with  butter  only,  considering  that  gravy 
takes  off  from  the  tine  flavor  of  the  bird. 
They  should  be  carved  the  same  as  fowls  or 
pigeons,  and  the  head  should  be  optnied,  a.s 
some  are  fond  of  the  brains.  Snipes  are 
generally  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as 
woodcocks. 

SNOW-BALLS,  BOILED  IN  BUT- 
TER. Mix  with  six  well-beaten  eggs  one 
pint  and  a  half  of  sour  cream,  and  add  by 
degrees  as  much  flour  as  will  make  the  bat- 
ter thick  enough  for  the  spoon  to  stand  in 
it;  sweeten  it  with  brown  sugar,  and  put 
in  a  few  cardamons;  stir  into  this  mixture 
half  a  pint  of  l)eer,  beat  it  all  well  to- 
gether, and  drop  it  with  a  dessert-spoon 
into  some  boiling  lard,  or  butter.  Drain 
them  upon  a  towel  before  the  fire,  and  serve 
them  in  a  napkin,  with  sugar  sifted  over 
them. 

SNOW  CHEESE.  Sweeten,  with  poun- 
ded loaf  sugar,  a  quart  of  good  cream ;  add 
the  strained  juice  of  three  lemons,  and  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  blanched  sweet  almonds 
pounded,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rose- 
water,  and  one  of  ratafia.  Beat  it  with  a 
whisk  till  thick,  and  put  it  into  a  shape  or 
sieve  with  a  bit  of  muslin  laid  into  it,  and 
in  twelve  hours  take  it  out. 

SODA  WATER.  Tartaric  acid  half 
an  ounce,  arated  soda,  half  an  ounce.  Have 
two  tumblers  about  one-third  full  of  water, 
put  a  tea-spoonful  of  the  soda  into  one  glass, 
and  the  same  of  the  acid  into  the  other; 
when  dissolved,  mix  them  together,  and 
drink  it  immediately.  The  two  sorts  of  salts 
must  be  kept  in  separate  bottles,  and  should 
Ije  bought  ready  powdered. 

SOLES  OR  OTHER  FISH,  TO  FRY. 

An  hour  befoi-e  you  intend  to  dress  them, 
wash  tliem  thoroughly,  and  wrap  them  in  a 
clean  cloth,  to  make  them  perfectly  dry,  or 
tlie  bread-crumbs  will  not  stick  to  them. 

Prepaie  some  bread-crumbs,  by  lubbing 
some  stale  bread  through  a  colander;  or, 
if  you  wish  the  fish  to  apj)ear  veiy  delicate 


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and  highly  finished,  through  a  hair  sieve ;  or 
use  biscuit  powder. 

Beat  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg  well 
together,  on  a  plate,  with  a  fork ;  flour  your 
fish,  to  absorb  any  moisture  that  may  remain, 
and  wipe  it  off  with  a  clean  cloth;  dip  them 
in  the  egg  on  both  sides  all  over,  or,  what 
is  better,  egg  them  widi  a  paste-brush ;  put 
die  egg  on  in  an  even  degree  over  the  whole 
fish,  or  the  bread  crumbs  will  not  stick 
to  it  even,  and  the  uneven  part  will  burn 
to  the  pan.  Strew  die  bread  crumbs  all 
over  the  fish,  so  that  diey  cover  every  part, 
take  up  the  fish  by  the  head,  and  shake  off 
the  loose  cnunbs.  The  fish  is  now  ready 
for  die  frying-pan,  into  which  put  a  quart 
or  more  of  fresh  sweet  olive  oil,  or  clar- 
ified butter,  dripping,  lard,  or  clarified  drip- 
pings; lie  sure  that  they  are  quite  sweet 
and  perfectly  clean  (die  fat  ought  to  cover 
the  fish):  what  we  here  order  is  for  soles 
about  ten  inches  long;  if  larger,  cut  them 
into  pieces  the  proper  size  to  help  at  table ; 
this  will  save  much  time  and  trouble  to  the 
cirver:  when  you  send  them  to  table,  lay 
them  in  the  same  form  they  were  before  ihey 
were  cut,  and  you  may  strew  a  little  curled 
parsley  over  them:  tlwy  are  much  easier 
managed  in  die  frying-pan,  and  require  less 
fat:  fry  the  thick  part  a  few  minutes  before 
you  put  in  the  thin,  you  can  by  this  means 
only  fiy  the  thick  part  enough,  widiout  fry- 
ing' the  thin  too  much.  Very  large  soles 
should  he  boiled,  or  fried  in  fillets.  Soles 
cut  in  pieces,  crossways,  about  the  size  of  a 
nmelt,  make  a  very  pretty  garnish  for  stewed 
fish  and  boiled  fish. 

Set  die  frying-pan  over  a  sharp  and  clear 
fire;  watch  it,  skim  it  with  an  egg-slice,  and 
when  it  boils,  i.  e.  when  it  has  done  bub- 
bling, and  die  smoke  jnst  l)egins  to  rise  from 
die  surface,  put  in  the  fish:  if  the  fat  is  not 
extremely  hot,  it  is  impossible  to  fry  fish 
of  a  good  color,  or  to  keep  them  firm  and 
crisp. 

The  best  way  to  ascertain  tlie  heat  of  the 
fat,  is  to  try  it  wilh  a  bit  of  bread  as  big  as 
a  nut ;  if  U  is  quite  hot  enough,  die  bread 
will  brown  immediately.  Put  in  the  fish, 
and  it  will  l>e  ciisp  and  brown  on  die  side 
next  the  fire,  in  about  four  or  five  minutes; 
to  turn  it,  stick  a  two-pronged  fork  near  the 
head,  and  support  the  tail  with  a  fisli-slice, 
and  fry  the  odier  side  nearly  the  same  length 
of  time.  Fry  one  sole  at  a  time,  except  the 
pan  is  very  large,  and  yon  have  plenty  of  fat.  ] 

When  the  fish  are  fried,  lay  them  on  a  soft  | 
cloth  (old  table-clodis  are  best),  near  enough  I 
the  fire  to  keep  them  warm;  turn  them  j 
every  two  or  three  minutes,  till  they  are 
quite  dry  on  both  sides ;  this  common  cooks  | 
commonly  neglect.  It  will  take  ten  or  fifteen  ] 
minutes,  if  die  fat  you  fried  diem  in  was  not  ; 
hot  enough;  when  it  is,  they  want  very  little 


drying.  When  soles  are  fi-ied,  they  will 
keep  very  good  in  a  dry  place  for  three  or 
four  days ;  warm  them  by  hanging  them  on 
the  hooks  in  a  Dutch  oven,  letting  them  heat 
very  gradually,  by  putting  it  some  distance 
from  the  fire  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  in 
good  gravy,  as  eels,  Wiggy's  way. 

Obs. — There  are  several  general  rules  in 
this  receipt  which  apply  to  all  fried  fish : 
we  have  been  very  particular  and  minute  in 
our  directions;  for,  although  a  fried  sole  is 
so  frequent  and  favorite  a  dish,  it  is  very 
seldom  brought  to  table  in  perfection. 

SOLES,  TO  BOIL.  A  fine,  fresh,  thick 
sole  is  almost  as  good  eating  as  a  turbot. 
Wasli  and  clean  it  nicely;  put  it  into  a  fish- 
kettle  with  a  handful  of  salt,  and  as  much 
cold  water  as  will  cover  it ;  set  it  on  the  side 
of  the  fire,  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and 
let  it  boil  gently;  about  five  minutes  (accord- 
ing to  its  size)  will  be  long  enough,  unless 
it  be  very  large.  Send  it  up  on  a  fish-drain- 
er, garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs 
of  curled  parsley,  or  nicely-fried  smelts,  or 
oysters. 

Obs. — Slices  of  lemon  are  a  universally 
acceptable  garnish  with  either  fried  or  broil- 
ed fish :  a  few  sprigs  of  crisp  parsley  may  be 
added,  if  you  wish  to  make  it  look  very 
smart ;  and  parsley,  or  fennel  and  butter,  are 
excellent  sauces,  or  chervil  sauce,  or  anchovy. 

SOLES,  TO  DRESS  MAIGRE.    Put 

the  fish  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  large  onion, 
four  cloves,  fifteen  berries  of  allspice,  and  the 
same  of  black  pepper;  just  cover  them  with 
boiling  water,  set  it  where  they  will  simmer 
gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  fish;  strain  off  the  liquor 
in  another  stewpan,  leaving  the  fish  to  keep 
warm  till  the  sauce  is  ready.  Rub  together 
on  a  plate  as  much  flour  and  butter  as  will 
make  the  sauce  as  diick  as  a  double  cream. 
Each  pint  of  sauce  season  with  a  glass  of 
wine,  half  as  much  mushroom  ketchup,  a  tea- 
spoonfiil  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and  a  few 
grains  of  cayenne;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes, 
put  the  fish  on  a  deep  dish,  sti'ain  the  gravy 
over  it;  garnish  it  widi  sippets  of  bre:id 
toasted  or  hied. 

SOLE,  Carp,  Trout,  Perch.  Eel, 
OR  Flounder,  to  stew.  When  the  fish 
has  been  properly  washed,  lay  it  in  a  stew- 
pan, with  half  a  pint  of  cbret  or  Port  wine, 
and  a  (juart  of  good  gravy,  a  large  onion,  a 
dozen  lierries  of  black  p<?pper,  the  same  of 
allspice,  and  a  few  cloves,  or  a  bit  of  mace: 
cover  the  fish-kettle  close,  and  let  it  stew 
gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes,  according 
to  the  thickness  of  the  fish :  take  die  fish  up, 
lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  up,  and  thicken 
die    liquor    it   was  stewed  in  with  a  little 


sou 


200 


SOUPS 


flour,  and  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  essence 
of  anchovy,  mushroom  ketchup,  and  a  little 
Chili  vinegar;  when  it  has  boiled  ten  min- 
utes, strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  pour  it 
over  the  fish:  if  there  is  more  sauce  than 
the  dish  will  hold,  send  the  rest  up  in  a  boat. 
The  river  trout  comes  into  season  in  April, 
and  continues  till  July;  it  is  a  delicious  fish. 

SORREL,  TO  STEW.  Strip  the  leaves 
from  the  stalks,  wash  them  well,  scald  tliem 
in  boiling  water  in  a  silver  saucepan,  or  in 
an  earlhern  pipkin ;  strain  and  stew  them  in 
a  little  gravy  till  tender.  Serve  with  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  quartera. 

SORREL,  IN  GRAVY.  Mince,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  butter,  bacon, 
parsley,  and  scallions ;  add  a  glass  of  con- 
somme; set  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and 
when  quite  soft,  put  to  it  some  fowl  gravy,  or 
veal  blond.  Make  the  sauce  thick,  and  do 
not  let  it  boil,  cover  the  sorrel  when  served. 

SORREL  OMELET.  Pick,  wash,  and 
blanch  some  sorrel,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and 
fi-y  it  lightly  in  a  little  butter,  with  shred 
parsley  and.  scallions;  then  put  tlie  sorrel 
mto  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  cream ;  season, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly;  in  the  meantime  make 
an  omelet  in  the  usual  way,  lay  it  on  a  dish, 
thicken  the  sorrel  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
pour  it  on  the  omelet,  and  serve  it  very  hot. 

SOUFFLET,  APPLE.  Prepare  apples 
as  for  baking  in  a  pudding,  put  them  into  a 
deep  dish,  and  lay  upon  the  top,  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  thick,  rice  boiled  in  new 
milk  with  sugar;  beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the 
whiles  of  two  or  three  eggs,  with  a  little 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  lay  it  upon  the  rice,  and 
bake  it  in  an  oven  a  light  brown.  Serve  it 
instantly  when  done. 

SOUFFLET,  RICH.  Soak  in  white 
wine  and  a  little  brandy,  sweetened  with  su- 
gar, some  slices  of  sponge  cake ;  put  them 
into  a  deep  dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  rich 
custard ;  beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of 
three  or  four  eggs,  and  with  a  table-spoon 
lay  it  over  the  top  in  heaps  to  look  rough ; 
brown  it  in  a  Dutch  oven,  and  serve  quickly. 

SOUFFLET,  RICE.  Soak  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  for  an  hour,  one  ounce  of  rice, 
and  the  peel  of  a  lemon  cut  thin;  put  it  into 
a  saucepan,  with  a  little  salt,  and  add  by 
degrees  a  pint  of  new  milk,  and  a  bit  of  but- 
ter the  size  of  a  walnut;  stir  it  till  it  boil, 
and  for  five  minutes  after.  When  cool,  add 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  beaten  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  stir  in 
the  well-l)eaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  dress 
the   soufflet   in   the   dish    like   a   pyramid. 


Bake  it  in  an  oven.  It  may  l)e  made  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  potato  flour,  which 
mix  with  a  little  milk,  and  a  little  salt,  and 
then  thicken  it  over  the  fire  with  more  milk ; 
put  a  little  orange-flower  water,  or  any  other 
perfume ;  whilst  in  the  oven  it  may  l)e  glazed 
with  sifted  loaf  sugar. 

SOUFFLET,  ORANGE.  Mix  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  a  pint  of  cream,  put 
it  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
rose-water,  a  little  cinnamon  and  orange- 
peel;  stir  it  till  it  boil;  strain  and  sweeten 
it,  and  when  cold,  mix  in  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  orange  marmalade;  beat  well  six 
eggs  with  a  glass  of  brandy;  mix  all  togeth- 
er; put  it  in  a  buttered  shape;  place  it  in 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  over  a  stove ; 
let  it  boil  one  hour  and  a  quarter  without  a 
cloth  or  cover  over  it. 

SOUPS.  Every  utensil  employed  in  a 
kitchen  must  lie  kept  scrupulously  clean, 
and  a  cook  ought  to  take  esf)ecial  care  that 
all  her  saucepans  be  in  good  order.  Brass 
pans  are  prefei-able  for  preserving  in,  and 
double  block  tin  are  the  best  sort  in  use  for 
every  other  piupose;  their  covers,  should  be 
made  to  fit  closely,  and  die  tinning  always 
renewed  as  soon  as  it  is  observed  to  be 
wearing  ofi".  While  new,  they  may  be 
easily  kept  clean  by  washing  them  regularly 
in  hot  waler,  and  rubbing  on  them  when 
quite  dry,  a  little  Avhiting  with  leather  or 
flannel.  After  long  use,  they  will  require 
occasional  scouring  with  fine  sand ;  and  be- 
fore they  are  used,  they  ought  always  to  be 
rinsed  out  with  hot  water,  and  wiped  with 
a  clean  cloth.  A  landlady  will  find  it  good 
economy,  and  for  her  advantage  in  other 
respects,  to  provide  plenty  of  stone  ware  and 
earthen  vessels,  and  also  common  dishes  for 
the  kitchen,  that  the  table  set  may  not  be 
used  to  keep  cold  meat  on. 

In  boiling  soup,  less  water  is  used  in  a 
digester  than  in  a  common  pot,  as  in  a  di- 
gester no  steam  can  escape. 

To  extract  the  strength  from  meat,  long 
and  slow  boiling  is  necessary,  but  care  must 
Ije  talien  that  the  pot  is  never  oft'  the  boil. 
All  soups  are  better  for  Ijeing  made  the  day 
before  they  are  to  be  used,  and  they  sliouid 
then  be  strained  into  eardien  pans.  When 
soup  has  jellied  in  the  pan,  it  should  not  be 
removed  into  another,  as  breaking  it  will 
occasion  its  l)ecoming  sour  sooner  than  it 
would  odierwise  do;  when  in  danger  of  not 
keeping,  it  should  be  boiled  up.  It  never 
kee|)s  long  with  many  vegetables  in  it.  The 
meat  used  for  soups  or  broths  cannot  be  too 
fresh.  When  any  animal  food  is  plain, 
boiled,  the  liquor,  vviUi  the  addition  of  the 
trimmings  of  meat  and  poultry,  make  good 
soups  and  gravies,  as  do  also  the  bones  of 


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201 


SOUPS 


or  broiled  meat.  The  g^vies  left 
in  the  dishes  answer  for  hashes,  and  the 
liquor  in  which  veal  has  been  boiled,  may 
be  made  into  a  glaze  by  boiling  it  with  a 
ham  bone  till  reduced  to  a  thii-d  or  fourth 
part,  and  seasoning  it  with  the  necessary 
iierl»  and  spices. 

In  boiling  weak  soups,  the  pan  should  lie 
uncovered  that  the  wateiy  particles  may 
escape.  Cow-heel  jelly  improves  every 
sort  of  rich  soup;  and  for  thickening,  truf- 
lles,  morels,  and  dried  mushrooms,  may  be 
used  with  advantage. 

Directions  are  given  with  each  of  the 
following  soups  for  thickening  with  flour 
aiid  butter,  cream  and  eggs ;  after  the  cream 
and  eggs  are  added,  the  soup  must  not  be 
allowed  to  boil. 

Should  brown  gravy  or  mock  turtle  soup 
be  spoiling,  fresh-made  charcoal,  roughly 
pounded,  tied  in  a  little  bag  and  boiled  wiUi 
either,  will  absorb  the  bad  flavor  and  leave 
it  sweet  and  good.  The  charcoal  may  be 
made  by  simply  putting  a  bit  of  wood  into 
tlie  fire,  and  pounding  tlie  burnt  part  in  a 
mortar. 


ASPARAGUS.    This  is  made 

with  the  points  of  asparagus,  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  green  pease  soup  is  with 
pease:  let  half  the  asparagus  be  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  and  the  other  cut  in  pieces 
about  an  inch  long,  and  boiled  till  done 
enough,  and  sent  up  in  the  soup:  to  make 
two  quarts,  there  must  be  a  pint  of  heads 
to  tliicken  it,  and  half  a  pint  cut  in ;  take 
care  to  preserve  these  green  and  a  little 
crisp.  This  soup  is  sometimes  made  by 
adding  tlie  asparagus  heads  to  common  pease 
soup. 

BEEF,  THICK.   In  eight  quarts 


of  water  boil  gently  for  seven  hours,  skim- 
ming it  well,  a  shin,  or  a  leg  of  beef,  and  a 
bimch  of  sweet  herbs ;  strain  it  the  next  day, 
take  off  the  fat,  and  cut  all  the  gristly  and 
sinewy  parts  from  the  bones,  add  them  to 
the  soup  with  some  leeks,  onions,  celery, 
pepper,  salt,  and  ten  or  twelve  ounces  of 
Scotch  barley  parboiled;  boil  it  gently  for 
two  or  three  hours.  This  stock  or  jelly  will 
keep  good  for  weeks  in  cold  weather. 


BEEF*  OR  MUTTON.    Boil 

very  gently  in  a  closely  covered  saucepan, 
foui'  quails  of  water,  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sifted  bread  raspings,  three  pounds 
of  beef  cut  in  small  pieces,  or  the  same 
quantity  of  mutton  chops  taken  from  the 
middle  of  the  neck;  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  add  two  turnips,  two  carrots,  two 
onions,  and  one  head  of  celery,  all  cut  sihall ; 
let  it  stew  with  tliCfie  ingredients  four  hours, 
when  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 


BEET  ROOT.    Boil  till  tender 

two  roots  of  beet,  and  rub  off  the  skin  with 
a  coarse  towel,  mince  them  finely,  as  also 
two  or  three  onions;  add  this  to  five  pints 
of  rich  gravy  soup,  so  as  to  make  it  rather 
thick,  then  stir  in  three  or  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar  and  one  of  brown  sugar;  let  it 
boil,  and  throw  in  some  fricandellans  made 
up  in  die  form  of  corks,  and  rolled  in  flour. 


AND  BOUILLI.      The    best 

parts  for  this  purpose,  are  the  leg  or  shin, 
or  a  piece  of  the  middle  of  a  brisket  of 
beef,  of  about  seven  or  eight  pounds'  weight ; 
lay  it  on  a  fish  drainer,  or  when  you  take  it 
up,  put  a  slice  under  it,  which  will  enable 
you  to  place  it  on  the  dish  entire ;  put  it  in- 
to a  souppot  or  deep  stewpan,  with  cold 
water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  a  quart  over, 
set  it  on  a  quick  fire  to  get  tlie  scum  up, 
which  remove  as  it  rises ;  then  put  in  two 
carrots,  two  turnips,  two  leeks,  or  two 
large  onions,  two  heads  of  celery,  two  or 
three  cloves,  and  a  faggot  of  pai-sley  and 
sweet  herbs ;  set  the  pot  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  very  gently,  till  the  meat  is 
just  tender  enough  to  eat ;  this  will  require 
about  four  or  five  hours. 

Put  a  large  carrot,  a  turnip,  a  large  onion, 
and  a  head  or  two  of  celery,  into  the  soup 
whole, — take  them  out  as  soon  as  they  are 
done  enough,  lay  them  on  a  dish  till  they  are 
cold,  then  cut  them  into  small  squares: — 
when  the  Beef  is  done,  take  it  out  careful- 
ly,— strain  the  Soup  through  a  hair  sieve 
into  a  clean  stewpan,  take  off  the  fat,  and 
put  the  vegetables  that  are  cut  into  the 
soup,  the  flavor  of  which  you  may  heighten, 
by  adding  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup. 

If  a  Thickened  Soup  is  preferred,  take 
four  large  table-spoonfuls  of  the  clear  fat 
from  the  top  of  the  pot,  and  four  spoonfuls 
of  flour;  mix  it  smooth  together,  then  by 
degrees  stir  it  well  into  the  soup,  which 
simmer  for  ten  minutes  longer  at  least, — 
skim  it  well  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis, 
or  fine  sieve,  and  add  the  vegetables  and 
seasoning  the  same  as  directed  in  the  clear 
soup. 

Keep  the  beef  hot,  and  send  it  op  (as  a 
remove  to  the  soup)  with  finely  chopped 
parsley  sprinkled  on  tlie  top,  and  a  sauce- 
boat  of  Wow  Wow  sauce. 


BROWN,    wiTHOcT  Meat. 

Put  three  quarts  or  more  of  water,  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  raspings  to  thicken  it; 
two  or  three  onions  cut  across,  some  whole 
pepper,  and  a  little  salt ;  cover  it  close,  and 
let  it  boil  an  hour  and  a  half;  ti^ko  it  ofT, 
and  strain  it  through  a  sieve;  (ry  in  butter 
some  celery,  endive,  lettuc*,  spmach,  and 
any  other  iierbs  cut  small;   then  tak«  % 


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gtewpaa  (sufficiently  large  to  hold  all  the 
ingredients,)  and  put  in  a  good  piece  of  but- 
ter, stick  in  a  little  flour,  and  keep  stirring 
till  it  is  colored  of  a  nice  brown ;  then  put 
in  the  herljs  and  soup ;  boil  it  till  tlie  heibs 
are  tender,  and  tlie  soup  of  a  projjer  consist- 
ence, tlien  pour  the  soup  into  a  tiu-een,  and 
send  to  table;  sen'e  with  fried  bread,  either 
in  the  soup  or  in  a  dish. 


BROWN  GRAVY.    (1)     Take 

fifteen  pounds  of  a  leg  or  shin  of  beef,  cut  off 
the  meat  in  bits,  rub  the  bottom  of  the  pot 
witli  butter,  put  in  the  meat,  let  it  brown 
for  nearly  an  hour,  turning  it  constantly, 
break  die  bone  and  take  out  the  marrow, 
which  may  be  kept  for  a  pudding,  but  it  is 
considered  better  than  butter  to  brown  the 
meat  with;  put  to  it  fourteen  quarts  of  cold 
water,  and  tlie  bones ;  when  it  boils,  skim 
it  perfectly  clean,  and  add  six  good-sized 
red  onions,  one  carrot  cut  in  three,  one 
head  of  celery,  a  good  handful  of  whole 
black  and  Jamaica  pepper  mixed;  let  this 
boil  very  gently  ten  or  twelve  hours  closely 
covered,  if  u|X)n  a  fire,  but  if  done  upon  a 
hot  plate,  not  lo  be  covered ;  strain  it  through 
a  cullender,  and  then  through  a  hair  sieve, 
into  a  laige  pan,  to  be  kept  for  use.  Re- 
turn the  meat  and  bones  into  die  pot  with 
diree  or  four  quarts  of  hot  water ;  let  it  boil 
nearly  two  hours,  and  strain  it  off.  This 
makes  good  stock  for  gravies,  stews,  or 
any  made  dishes. 

This  gravy  soup  keeps  perfectly  good  for 
three  or  four  weeks.  When  it  is  to  be 
boiled  to  send  to  table,  first  boil  vermicelli, 
or  macaroni,  in  a  little  salt  and  water,  till 
tender;  strain  it,  and  add  it  to  the  soup 
just  before  serving.  This  soup  is  quite 
pure,  and  requires  no  clearing.  It  is  a 
most  convenient  thing  to  have  in  a  house  in 
cold  weadier,  as  it  is  always  ready  for  use; 
and,  served  with  dry  toast  to  eat  with  it, 
makes  an  acceptable  luncheon. 

The  trimmings  of  meat,  giblets,  and  bones, 
may  be  boiled  with  the  beef  for  this  soup. 


BROWN   GRAVY.     (2)     ait 

down  three  pounds  of  gravy  beef,  and  put  it 
on  in  a  stewpan  with  diree  onions  cut  small, 
and  two  ounces  of  butter;  let  it  brown  well, 
stirring  it  to  prevent  the  onions  from  burn- 
ing ;  then  add  four  quarts  of  water,-  one 
head  of  celeiy,  of  carrots  and  turnips  two 
each,  with  some  whole  black  pepper  and 
gait ;  boil  it  gently  for  four  hours  ;  strain  it ; 
and  the  next  day  take  off  the  fat.  When 
it  is  heated,  add  some  vermicelli,  previously 
boiled  in  water,  and  serve  it  after  boiling 
ten  minutes. 


CALF'S  HEAD,  OR  MOCK 

TURTLE.  (1)  Parboil  a  calf's  head,  take 


off  the  skin  and  cut  it  in  bits  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  square,  cut  the  fleshy  parts  in  bits, 
take  out  the  black  part  of  the' eyes,  and  cut 
die  rest  in  rings,  skin  the  tongue,  and  cut  it 
in  slices,  add  it  all  to  three  quarts  of  good 
stock,  and  season  it  with  cayenne,  two  or 
three  blades  of  mace,  salt,  the  jieel  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  with 
about  a  dozen  of  forcemeat  balls ;  stew  all 
this  an  hour  and  a  half,  rub  down  with  a 
little  cold  water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
mix  well  amongst  it  half  a  pint  of  the  soup, 
and  then  stir  it  into  the  pot ;  put  in  the 
juice  of  half  a  large  lemon,  and  the  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  eight  eggs ;  let  it  simmer  for 
ten  minutes,  and  tiien  put  it  all  in  the  tureen. 


CALF'S  HEAD.     (2)    Scald 

and  clean  thoroughly  a  calf's  head  with 
the  skin  on,  boil  it  an  hour  gently  in  three 
quarts  of  water,  and  pat-boil  with  it  some 
sweetbreads.  Cut  off  the  meat,  slice  and 
fi-y  of  a  light  brown  in  butter  two  pounds 
of  gravy  beef,  one  of  veal,  and  one  of  mut- 
ton, with  five  onions  cut  small ;  put  all  into 
die  liquor,  adding  die  bones  of  the  head 
broken;  rinse  the  frying-pan  with  two 
quarts  of  boiling  wajer,  and  put  it  to  the 
meat,  and  other  things,  with  two  whole  on- 
ions, and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  twice 
their  quantity  of  parsley ;  the  peel  of  one 
lemon,  four  cloves,  a  little  allspice,  salt, 
and  black  pepper,  with  a  slice  of  the  crumb 
of  bread  dried  before  the  fire ;  let  all  this 
stew  slowly  for  five  hours,  strain  it,  and 
when  cold,  take  off  all  the  fat.  Cut  the 
meat  of  the  calf's  head,  tongue,  and  sweet- 
breads, in  small  square  bits,  add  them  to 
tlie  soup,  and  when  it  has  boiled,  mix  very 
gradually  widi  a  large  table-spoonful  ot 
flour  a  cupful  of  the  soup,  and  stir  it  gently 
into  the  pot ;  twenty  minutes  before  serving, 
add  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  cayenne,  the 
yolks  of  eight  or  ten  hard-boiled  eggs,  and 
the  same  number  of  forcemeat  balls  ;  a  pint 
of  white  wine, — Madeira  is  the  best, — and 
just  before  serving,  add  thejuiceof  a  lemon. 
Forcemeat  balls  for  this  soup  are  made  as 
follows: — Mix  the  brains  with  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  bread,  the  same  of  finely 
minced  beef  suet,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  one 
of  white  pepper,  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
some  nutmeg,  and  boiled  parsley  chopped; 
beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  roll 
the  balls  the  size  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
fry  diem  of  a  light  brown  in  boiling  drip- 
ping. 

CALF'S  HEAD.    (3)  Take  as 

much  as  is  required  of  not  very  stiong  veal,  or 
beef  stock,  in  which  six  onions  have  been 
boiled,  brown  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
and  thicken  it  well  with  flour,  then  add  the 
stock  by  degrees;  when  it  boils,  put  in  the 


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calPs  head,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  some  fried 
forcemeat  balls;  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper.  The  peel  of  half  a  lemon  improves 
it.  When  it  has  boiled  twenty  minutes, 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ketchup,  three  of 
essence  of  anchovies,  and  as  much  lemon 
pickle  as  will  make  it  a  pleasant  acid.  To 
give  the  soup  a  good  color,  and  to  enrich  the 
flavor,  may  be  added  a  large  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  mixed  perfectly  smooth  in  a  tea- 
cupful  of  cold  water,  and  stirred  gradually 
into  tlie  soup,  after  which  let  it  boil  a  few 
minutes. 

CARROT.     Scrape   and  wash 

half  a  dozen  large  carrots;  peel  off  the  red 
outside  (which  is  the  only  part. used  for  this 
soup);  put  it  into  a  gallon'stewpan,  with 
one  head  of  celery,  and  an  onion,  cut  into 
thin  pieces;  take  two  quarts  of  beef,  veal, 
or  mutton  brotli,  or  if  you  have  any  cold 
roast  beef  bones  (or  liquor,  in  which  mutton 
or  beef  has  been  boiled),  you  may  make  very 
good  broth  for  this  soup:  when  you  have 
put  the  broth  to  the  ropts,  cover  the  stewpan 
close,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  stove  for  two 
hours  and  a  half,  when  the  carrots  will  be 
soft  enough  (some  cooks  put  in  a  tea-cupful 
of  bread-crumbs) ;  boil  for  two  or  three 
minutes;  rub  it  through  a  tamis,  or  hair 
sieve,  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  add  as  much 
brotli  as  will  make  it  a  proper  thickness, 
t.  e.  almost  as  thick  as  pease  soup:  put  it 
into  a  clean  stewpan ;  make  it  hot ;  season 
it  with  a  little  salt,  and  send  it  up  with 
some  toasted  bread,  cut  into  pieces  half  an 
inch  square.  Some  put  it  into  the  soup; 
but  the  best  way  is  to  send  it  up  on  a  plate, 
as  a  side  dish. 

CELERY.     Split  half  a  dozen 


heads  of  celery  into  slips  about  two  inches 
long;  wash  them  well;  lay  them  on  a  hair 
sieve  to  drain,  and  put  them  into  three  quarts 
of  clear  gravy  soup  in  a  gallon  soup-pot ;  set 
it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  stew  very  gently 
till  the  celery  is  tender  (this  will  tiike  about 
an  hour).  If  any  scum  rises,  take  it  off; 
season  with  a  little  salt. 

Obs. — When  celery  cannot  be  procured, 
half  a  drachm  of  the  seed,  pounded  fine, 
which  may  be  considered  as  the  essence  of 
celery,  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the 
soup  is  done,  and  a  little  sugar,  will  give  as 
much  flavor  to  half  a  gallon  of  soup  as  two 
heads  of  celery  weighing  seven  ounces,  or 
add  a  little  essence  of  celery. 


COCKY-LEEKY.      Take    a 

scrag  of  mutton,  or  shank  of  veal,  three 
quarts  of  water  (or  liquor  in  which  meat  has 
been  boiled),  and  a  good  sized  fowl,  with 
two  or  three  leeks  cut  in  pieces  about  an 
inch  long,  pepper  and  salt ;  boil  slowly  about 


an  hour:  then  put  in  as  many  more  leeks, 
and  give  it  three-quarters  of  an  hour  longer: 
this  is  very  good,  made  of  good  beef  stock, 
and  leeks  put  in  at  twice. 

CRAWFISH.    This   soup  is 


sometimes  made  with  beef,  or  veal  broth,  or 
with  fish,  in  the  following  manner:  Take 
flounders,  eels,  gudgeons,  &c.,  and  set  them 
on  to  boil  in  cold  water ;  when  it  is  pretty 
nigh  boiling,  skim  it  well;  and  to  three 
quarts  put  in  a  couple  of  onions,  and  as  many 
carrots  cut  to  pieces,  some  parsley,  a  dozen 
berries  of  black  and  Jamaica  pepper,  and 
about  half  a  hundred  craw-fish ;  take  off  the 
small  claws  and  shells  of  the  tails;  pound 
them  fine,  and  boil  them  with  the  broth 
about  an  hour;  strain  ofi',  and  break  in 
some  crusts  of  bread  to  thicken  it,  and,  if 
you  can  get  it,  the  spawn  of  a  lobster ;  pound 
it,  and  put  it  to  the  soup ;  let  it  simmer  verj 
gently  for  a  couple  of  minutes ;  put  in  your 
craw-fish  to  get  hot,  and  the  soup  is  ready. 


CRESSY.     (1)     Wash   clean, 

and  cut  small,  eight  carrots,  eight  turnips, 
three  heads  of  celery,  and  six  onions;  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  and  a  slice  of  ham,  stew  them 
gently  for  an  hour,  stirring  them  constantly: 
when  they  begin  to  brown  add  as  much 
gravy  soup  as  will  fill  the  tureen ;  let  it  boi: 
till  the  vegetables  are  sufficiently  tender  to 
pulp  with  a  spoon  through  a  sieve,  after 
which  put  it  on  the  fire  and  boil  it  half  an 
hour,  skin,  and  season  it  with  pepper  and 
salt.  This  soup  should  be  as  thick  as  melt- 
ed butter.  Two  pounds  of  beef  boiled  in 
four  (juarts  of  water  till  reduced  to  three, 
will  answer  for  the  soup. 


CRESSY.     (2)    Slice    twelve 

large  onions,  and  fry  them  pretty  brown  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  scrape 
and  clean  two  dozen  of  good  red  carrots, 
boil  them  in  four  quarts  of  water  till  quite 
soft ;  [»ound  them  in  a  marble  mortar,  mix 
them  with  the  onions  and  add  the  liquor  in 
which  the  carrots  were  boiled,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  pepper,  salt,  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  two  or  three  cloves ;  let  them  all  boil 
about  an  hour,  then  rub  them  through  a  hair 
sieve ;  put  it  on  again  to  boil  rather  quickly, 
till  it  be  as  thick  as  rich  cream.  Put  a  lit- 
tle dry  boiled  rice  in  the  tureen,  and  pour 
the  soup  over  it.  If  the  carrots  are  large, 
one  dozen  will  be  found  sufficient. 


CUCUMBER.       Make  some 

broth  with  a  neck  of  mutton,  a  thick  slice 
of  lean  bacon,  an  onion  stuck  with  three 
cloves,  a  carrot,  two  turnips,  some  salt,  and 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  strain  it ;  brown 
with  an  ounce  of  butter  the  crumb  of  a 


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French  roll,  to  which  put  four  large  cucum- 
bers, and  two  heads  of  lettuce  cut  small ;  let 
them  stew  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  add  to 
them  a  quart  of  tlie  broth;  when  it  boils 
put  in  a  pint  of  green  pease,  and  as  it  stews, 
add  two  quarts  more  of  the  broth. 


CURRY,    OR    MULLAGA- 

TAWNY.  Cut  four  pounds  of  a  breast  of 
veal  into  pieces,  about  two  inches  by  one; 
put  the  trimmings  into  a  stewpan  witli  two 
quarts  of  water,  witli  twelve  corns  of  black 
pepper,  and  tlie  same  of  allspice ;  when  it 
boils,  skim  it  clean,  and  let  it  boil  an  hour 
and  a  half,  then  strain  it  off;  while  it  is 
boiling,  fry  of  a  nice  brown  in  butter  tlie 
bits  of  veal  and  four  onions;  when  they  are 
done,  put  the  broth  to  them ;  put  it  on  the 
fire;  when  it  boils,  skim  it  clean;  let  it 
simmer  half  an  hour;  then  mix  two  spoon- 
fuls of  curry,  and  the  same  of  flour,  with  a 
little  cold  water  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt; 
add  tliese  to  the  soup,  and  simmer  it  gently 
till  the  veal  is  quite  tender,  and  it  is  ready; 
or  bone  a  couple  of  fowls  or  rabbits,  and 
stew  them  in  the  manner  directed  above  for 
the  veal,  and  you  may  put  in  a  bruised  esr 
chalot,  and  some  mace  and  ginger,  instead  of 
black  pepper  and  allspice. 

CURRY.      Mince  small  three 


I  quantity  of  parsley,  two  drachms  of  allspice, 
1  the  same  of  black  pepper ;  cover  it  close, 
and  let  it  boil  gently  for  two  hours;  then 
strain  it  off,  and  skim  it  vei^  clean.  To 
thicken  it,  put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a 
clean  stewpan;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as 
much  flour  as  will  make  it  of  a  stiff  paste, 
then  add  the  liquor  by  degrees ;  let  it  simmer 
for  ten  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve ; 
then  put  your  soup  on  in  a  clean  stewpan, 
and  have  ready  some  little  square  pieces  of 
fish  fried  of  a  nice  light  brown,  either  eels, 
soles,  plaice,  or  skate  will  do;  the  fried 
fish  should  be  added  about  ten  minutes  be- 
fore the  soup  is  served  up.  Forcemeat  balls 
are  sometimes  added. 


or  four  onions,  according  to  their  size,  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  w  ith  two  ounces  of 
butter,  dredge  in  some  flour,  and  fry  them 
till  of  a  light  brown,  taking  care  not  to 
burn  them;  rub  in  by  degrees  a  large  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  curry-powder,  till  it 
be  quite  a  paste;  gradually  stir  in  three 
quarts  of  gravy  soup,  mixing  it  well  togeth- 
er; boil  it  gently  till  it  be  well  flavored 
with  the  curry-powder;  strain  it  into  anoth- 
er saucepan,  and  add  a  fowl  skinned  and 
cut  in  small  pieces,  dividing  each  joint; 
stew  it  slowly  an  hour.  In  half  a  pint  of 
the  soup  put  a  large  table-spoonful  of  tama- 
rinds, and  stew  them  so  as  to  separate  the 
stalks  and  stones ;  strain  and  stir  it  into  the 
soup  with  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and 
boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  before  serving. 


EEL.     To  make  a  tureenful,  take 

a  couple  of  middling-sized  onions,  cut  them 
in  half,  and  cross  your  knife  over  them  two 
or  diree  times;  put  two  ounces  of  butter 
into  a  stewpjm,  when  it  is  melted  put  in  the 
onions,  stir  them  about  till  they  are  lightly 
browned;  cut  into  pieces  three  pounds  of 
eels,  put  tliem  into  your  stewpan,  and  shake 
them  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes ;  then  add 
three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  when  they 
come  to  a  boil,  take  the  scum  off  very  clean ; 
then  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the 
green  leaves  (not  dried)  of  winter  savory, 
the  same  of  lemon   thyme,  and  twice   tlie 


GIBLET.      Clean  very  nicely 

two  sets  of  giblets,  parboil  diem.  Take  the 
skin  off  the  feet ;  cut  the  gizzards  in  quar- 
ters, the  necks  in  three  bits,  the  feet,  pin- 
ions, and  livei-s,  in  two,  the  head  in  two 
also,  first  taking  off  the  bill;  boil  them  till 
nearly  done  enough  in  a  quart  of  weak  gravy 
soup  with  an  onion.  Have  ready  boiling 
some  rich  highly-seasoned  brown  gravy  soup ; 
add  the  gibleLs  and  the  liquor  they  have  been 
boiled  in,  with  some  chopped  parsley ;  take 
out  tlie  onion,  and  thicken  the  soup  with  a 
bit  of  butter  kneaded  in  flour.  If  the  giblets 
are  not  perfectly  sweet  and  fresh,  do  not  add 
the  weak  soup  they  were  boiled  in.  Half  a 
pint  of  wine  may  be  added  a  little  before 
serving,  but  it  is  very  good  without. 


GOURD,     Should  be  made  of 

full-grown  gourds,  but  not  those  that  have 
hard  skins ;  slice  diree  or  four,  and  put  dieni 
in  a  stewpan,  with  two  or  three  onions,  and 
a  good  bit  of  butter ;  set  them  over  a  slow 
fire  till  quite  lender  (be  carefiil  not  to  let 
them  burn) ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  crust  of 
bread,  and  two  quarts  of  good  consomme; 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper:  boil 
ten  minutes,  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  skim 
off  all  the  fat,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis ; 
then  make  it  quite  hot,  and  serve  up  with 
fried  bread. 

GRAVY,  CLEAR.     Cut  half  a 


pound  of  ham  into  slices,  and  lay  them  at 
the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan  or  stockpot, 
with  two  or  three  pounds  of  lean  beef,  and 
as  much  veal ;  break  the  bones,  and  lay  them 
on  the  meat;  take  off  the  outer  skin  of  two 
large  onions  and  two  turnips;  wash,  clean, 
and  cut  into  pieces  a  couple  of  large  carrots, 
and  two  heads  of  celery ;  and  put  in  three 
cloves  and  a  lai^e  blade  of  mace.  Cover 
the  stewpan  close,  and  set  it  over  a  smart 
fire.  Wlien  the  meat  begins  to  stick  to  the 
bottom  of  die  stewpan,  turn  it ;  and  when 
there  is  a  nice  brown  glaze  at  the  bottom  of 
Uie  stewpan,  cover  tlie  meat  with  hot  water: 


SOUPS 


205 


SOUPS 


watdk  it,  and  wlien  it  is  coining  to  boil  put 
in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water ;  take  off  tlie 
scum ;  then  put  in  half  a  pint  more  cold 
water,  and  skim  it  agjiin,  and  continue  to 
do  so  till  no  more  scum  rises.  Now  set  it 
on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  gently  for  about 
four  hours ;  strain  it  through  a  clean  tamis 
or  napkin  (do  not  squeeze  it,  or  the  soup 
will  be  thick)  into  a  clean  stone  pan ;  let  it 
remain  till  it  is  cold,  and  then  remove  all  the 
fat.  When  you  decant  it,  be  careful  not  to 
disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pan. 

The  broth  should  be  of  a  fine  amber  color^ 
and  as  clear  as  rock  water.  If  it  is  not 
quite  so  bright  as  you  wish  it,  put  it  into  a 
stewpan;  break  two  whites  and  shells  of 
eggs  into  a  basin;  beat  them  well  together; 
put  them  into  the  soup:  set  it  on  a  quick 
five,  and  stir  it  with  a  whisk  till  it  boils; 
then  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  settle 
for  ten  minutes ;  run  it  through  a  fine  napkin 
into  a  basin,  and  it  is  ready. 

However,  if  your  broth  is  carefully  skim- 
med, &c.  according  to  the  directions  above 
given,  it  will  be  clear  enough  without  clari- 
fying; which  process  impairs  the  flavor  of 
it  in  a  higher  proportion  than  it  improves 
its  appearance.  This  is  the  basis  of  almost 
all  gravy  soups,  which  are  called  by  the 
name  of  the  vegetables  that  are  put  into  them. 
Carrots,  turnips,  onions,  celery,  and  a  few 
leaves  of  chervil,  make  what  is  called  spring 
soup,  or  soup  sante;  to  this  a  pint  of  green 
pease,  or  asparagus  pease,  oi  French  beans 
cut  into  pieces,  or  a  cabbage  lettuce,  are  an 
improvement.  With  rice  or  Scotch  barley, 
with  macaroni  or  vennicelli,  or  celery  cut 
into  lengths,  it  will  be  the  soup  usually  call- 
ed by  those  names.  Or  turnips  scooped 
round,  or  young  onions,  will  give  you  a  clear 
turnip  or  onion  soup ;  and  all  these  vegeta- 
bles mixed  together,  soup  gressi.  The 
roots  and  vegetables  you  use  must  be  boiled 
first,  or  they  will  impregnate  the  soup  with 
too  strong  a  flavor.  The  seasoning  for  all 
these  soups  is  the  same,  viz.  salt  and  a  very 
little  cayenne  pepper. 

GAME.     In  the  game  season,  it 

is  easy  for  a  cook  to  give  a  very  good  soup 
at  a  very  little  expense,  by  taking  all  the 
meat  off  the  breasts  of  any  cold  birds  which 
have  l)een  left  the  preceding  day,  and  pound- 
ing it  in  a  mortar,  and  beating  to  pieces  the 
legs  and  bones,  and  boiling  them  in  some 
broth  for  an  hour.  Boil  six  turnips;  mash 
them,  and  strain  them  through  a  tamis  cloth 
with  the  meat  that  has  been  pounded  in  a 
mortar;  strain  your  broth,  and  put  a  little 
of  it  at  a  time  into  the  tamis  to  help  you  to 
strain  all  of  it  through.  Put  your  soup-ket- 
tle near  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil:  when 
ready  to  dish  vour  dinner,  have  six  yolks  of 
18 


^gs  mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  cream;  stiraiiil' 
through  a  sieve ;  put  your  soup  on  the  fire, 
and  as  it  is  coming  to  boil,  put  in  die  eggs, 
and  stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon:  do  not 
let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 

HARE.     Cut  the  hare  in  joints 


as  for  a  fricassee,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan, 
with  a  little  allspice,  three  blades  of  mace, 
some  salt,  and  whole  black  pepper,  a  buncJi 
of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  lemon  tliyme,  one  of 
winter  savojy,  four  quarts  of  water,  a  slice 
of  ham,  and  four  pounds  of  lean  beef,  two 
carrots,  and  four  onions  cut  down;  let  it 
boil  till  it  l)e  reduced  to  three  quarts ;  sepa- 
rate the  hare,  and  strain  die  soup  over  it, 
and  add  a  pint  of  Port  wine ;  boil  it  up  be- 
fore serving. 

HERB.    Wash  and  cut  small 


twelve  cabbage  lettuces,  a  handful  of  chervil, 
one  of  purslane,  one  of  parsley,  eight  large 
green  onions,  and  diree  handfuls  of  sorrel; "^ 
when  pease  are  in  season  omit  half  the  quanti-' 
ty  of  soirel,  and  put  a  quart  of  young  green 
pease;  put  them  all  into  a  saucepan,  with 
half  a  pound  of  butter  and  three  c:irrots  cut 
small,  some  salt  and  pepper ;  let  them  stew 
closely  covered  for  half  an  hour,  shaking 
them  occasionally  to  prevent  their  adhering 
to  the  pan ;  fry  in  butter  six  cucumbers  cut 
longways  in  four  pieces;  add  them  with  four 
quarts  of  hot  water,  half  a  French  roll,  and 
a  crust  of  bread  toasted  upon  both  sides; 
and  let  the  whole  boil  till  reduced  to  three 
quarts,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve;  beat 
up  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  widi  half  a  pint 
of  cream,  and  stir  it  gently  into  the  soup  just 
before  serving. 


HERB  POWDER,  OR  VEG- 


ETABLE RELISH.  Dried  parsley,  win- 
ter savory,  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme, 
of  each  two  ounces;  lemon-peel,  cut  very 
thin,  and  dried,  and  sweet  basil,  an  ounce  ' 
of  each.  Some  add  to  the  above  bay-leaves  ^ 
and  celery-seed,  a  drachm  each.  Dry  them 
in  a  warm,  but  not  too  hot  Dutch  oven: 
when  quite  dried,  pound  them  in  a  mortar, 
and  pass  them  through  a  double  hair  sieve ; 
put  them  in  a  bottle  closely  stopped,  they 
will  retain  their  fragrance  and  flavor  for 
several  months. 

Obs. — This  composition  of  the  fine  aro- 
matic herbs  is  an  invaluable  acquisition  to 
the  cook  in  those  seasons  or  situations  when 
fresh  herbs  cannot  be  had ;  and  we  prefer  it 
to  the  ragout  powder.  It  impregnates  sauce, 
soup,  &c.  with  as  much  relish,  and  renders 
it  agreeable  to  the  palate,  and  refreshes  the 
gustatory  nerves,  without  so  much  risk  of 
offending  the  stomach. 

INVALID.     Cut  in  small  pieces  * 


SOUPS 


206 


SOUPS 


one  pound  of  beef  or  mutton,  or  part  of  both ; 
Loil  it  gently  in  two  qiuiils  of  water;  take 
off  the  hcuui,  and  when  reduced  to  a  pint, 
stritin  it.  Seiison  with  a  little  suit,  and  take 
a  ten-cupful  at  a  time. 


LOBSTER.     (1)     Cut  small  a 

dozen  of  C()inm(>n-si/.ed  onions,  put  them  into 
abtewpan  with  a  t^mall  bit  tif  buHer,  a  slice 
or  two  of  lean  ham,  and  a  slicre  of  lean  l)eef ; 
when  llie  oninns  are  quite  soft,  mix  gradu- 
ally with  them  some  rich  stock;  let  it  Ix^il, 
and  strain  it  through  a  fine  iiair  sieve,  press- 
ing the  pulp  (if  the  onions  with  a  wooden 
Bpoon;  then  boil  it  well,  skiaiming  ii  all  the 
time.  Beat  the  meat  of  a  boiled  cod,  the 
spawn  and  Ixxly  of  a  large  l.)bster,  or  etf  two 
small  ones,  in  a  marble  moitar;  add  grad- 
ually to  it  the  soup,  stirring  it  till  it  is  as 
smooth  as  cream;  let  it  boil  again  and  scum 
it.  Cut  the  tail  and  the  claws  of  the  I'-bster 
into  pieces,  and  add  them  to  the  soup  l)efore 
serving  it,  and  also  some  pepper,  cayenne, 
white  pepjier,  and  a  glass  of  white  wine. 
Forcemeat  balls  may  l)e  adde  I  to  oyster  soup 
and  lobster  soup,  nrade  as  directed  under  the 
article  "  Forcemeat  for  fish." 

LOBSTER.      (2)     You    must 

have  three  fine  lively  young  hen  lobsters, 
split  the  tails;  take  out  the  fish,  crack  the 
clawe,  and  cut  the  meat  into  mouthfuls: 
take  out  the  coral,  and  soft  part  of  the  body ; 
Lruise  part  of  the  coral  in  a  mortar;  pi(tk 
out  the  fish  from  the  chines;  l)eat  part  of  it 
with  the  coral,  and  with  this  make  forcemeat 
Iwlls,  finely-flavijred  with  mace  or  nutmeg, 
a  little  graieii  lemon-peel,  anchovy  and  cay- 
enne ;  pound  these  wiUt  the  yolk  of  an  egg. 

Have  three  quarts  of  veal  broth;  bruise 
the  small  legs  and  the  chine,  and  put  them 
into  it,  to  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
strain  it ;  and  then  to  thicken  it,  lake  the 
live  spawn  and  bruise  it  in  a  mortar  with  a 
little  butter  and  flour;  nib  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  add  it  to  the  soup  with  the  meat  (jf  the 
iol>sters,  and  the  remaining  coral;  let  it 
simmer  very  gently  for  ten  minutes;  do  not 
let  it  boil,  or  its  fine  red  color  will  iunne- 
diately  fade;  turn  it  into  a  tureen;  adl  the 
juice  of  a  good  lemon,  and  a  little  essence 
of  anchovy. 

LORRA  iN.     Boil  in  four  quarts 

of  water  a  knuckle  of  veal,  one  |Miund  of 
lean  beef,  and  (jne  |X)und  of  mutton,  a  car- 
rot, a  Uunip,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  ami  a  little 
lemon  tJiyme,  some  salt  and  white  pepper, 
till  reduced  to  three,  then  strain  die  liipmr; 
pound  very  finely  in  a  marble  mortar,  all  the 
white  meal  of  a  large  roast  el  fowl,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pojjnd  of  l)lanc,hed  ahuonds,  and 
ll»e  y<ilks  of  f)Ur  liani  l)oiled  «*ggs;  ImmI  in 
JDJlk  the  crumb  of  a  Frencii  rult^  uiid  |iound 


it  with  the  odier  ingreriients,  and  Ftir  it  all 
well  into  the  soup;  let  it  boil  gently  for  tear 
minutes  before  serving. 

MAIGRE,  OR  VEGETABLE 

GRAVY.  Put  into  a  galhm  slewpan  dnee 
ounces  <jf  buttei  ;  set  it  over  a  slow  fire ; 
while  it  is  melting,  slite  four  ounces  of 
onion;  cut  in  small  pieces  one  turnip,  one 
;  carrot,  and  a  head  of  celery;  put  tliem  iu  the 
I  stewpan,  cover  it  close,  let  it  iiy  till  they  are 
lightly  browned;  diis  will  take  aljout  IweD* 
ty-five  minutes:  have  ready,  in  a  saunepan,,' 
a  pint  (.f  |)ease,  with  four  (|uarls  of  water; 
v^-hen  the  roots  in  the  slew|>an  are  quite 
brown,  and  the  |x'ase  come  to  a  Ixjil,  put  Uie 
pease  an!  water  to  them;  put  it  on  the  fire; 
when  it  boils,  skim  it  clean,  and  put  in  a 
crust  of  bieatl  about  as  big  as  the  top  of  a 
twojK^nny  loaf,  tvventy-foiw  berries  of  all- 
spice, the  same  of  black  pepi;er,  and  two 
blades  of  mace;  cover  it  close,  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  one  hoi'r  and  a  half;  then  set  it 
from  the  fire  for  ten  minutes;  then  pour  it 
oft' very  gently  (so  as  not  to  disturb  the  sedi- 
ment at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan)  into  a 
large  basin;  let  it  stand  (about  two  hours) 
till  il  is  (|uite  cleir:  while  this  is  doing, 
shied  one  large  turnip,  the  red  part  of  a 
large  carrot,  three  (,uuces  of  onion  minced, 
and  one  large  h<'ad  of  celeiy  cut  into  small 
bits;  put  the  turnips  and  carrots  on  die  fire 
in  cold  water,  let  them  boil  five  minutes, 
then  diaiu  them  on  a  sieve,  then  pour  oft"  the 
soup  clear  into  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  roots, 
put  the  soup  on  the  fire,  let  it  sinuner  gently 
till  the  herbs  aie  tender  (from  thirty  U>  forty 
minutes),  season  it  with  salt  anl  a  little 
cayenne,  and  it  is  ready.  You  may  add  a 
table-six)onfid  <;f  mushroom  ketchup.  You 
will  have  three  quarts  of  soup,  as  well  color- 
ed, and  almost  as  well  tiavoreti,  as  if  made 
widi  gravy  uieat.  To  make  tins  it  requires 
nearly  five  hours.  To  fry  the  herl)s  retjuiie-s 
twenty-five  minutes;  to  lx>il  all  togedier,  one 
hour  and  a  half;  to  .settle,  at  the  least,  tw&, 
hours ;  when  clear,  and  put  on  the  fire  agtiin, 
half  an  hour  mure. 

MACARONL  (1)  Boil  for  three 

hours  very  (piickly,  in  five  (juaits  of  water, 
seven  pounds  of  veal,  a  little  .salt,  a  dessert- 
s[)oonful  of  white  pepper,  and  three  or  four 
blades  of  maco ;  strain  it  oflT,  put  it  into  a 
sauce|;an,  and  keep  it  hot  upon  a  stove. 
Mix  five  fable-spoonfids  of  flour  with  two 
o\mces  of  butter,  put  it  into  an  ir<m-linned 
sjuicepan,  and  stii  it  over  the  fire  till  it  be 
melted  ;  add  half  a  pint  of  the  strained  stock, 
and  then  gradually  mix  the  whole  together, 
and  keep  stirring  constantly  liil  it  liiirkeus, 
an  I  then  add  two  ounces  and  a  luilf  of  mac- 
aroni, |!ie\iously  Ixtiled  in  milk  and  water 
fir  eight  minutes;  stir  il  again  till  it  boil. 


SOUPS 


207 


SOUPS 


Take  the  pan  off  tliR  stove,  and  ftir  in  by 
degrees  about  three-:inarier9  of  a  pint  of  rich 
swcei  cieain,  and  jujit  let  it  boil  before  ser- 
ving. 

-MACARONI.  (2)  Make  a  good 

stock  with  a  knuckle  of  veal,  a  little  sweet 
maijoraai,  paislej',  some  salt,  white  pepper, 
three  blades  of  mace,  and  two  or  three  on- 
ions; strain  and  boil  it.  Break  in  small  bits 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni,  and  gently 
simmer  it  in  milk  and  water  till  it  be  swell- 
ed and  is  tender;  strain  it,  and  add  it  to  the 
soup,  which  thicken  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  Hour,  mixe'  in  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and 
stirred  gi-a  lually  into  the  soup.  Boil  it  a  few 
minutes  before  serving. 

MOCK  TURTLE.     Endeavor 


to  have  the  head  and  the  broth  ready  for  the 

soup,  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten.     It 

will  take  eight  hours  to  prepare  it  propei  ly. 

hours. 

Cleanin?  and  snakin?  the  he  id 1 

To  p  rlioil  it  t  >  c.it  up 1 

Coo  in.',  n  arly 1 

Making  the  broth  and  finishing  the  soup     5 

8 
Get  a  calf's  head  with  the  skin  on  (the 
fresher  t\\e  letter);  take  out  the  brains, 
wash  the  head  several  times  in  cold  water, 
let  it  soak  for  about  an  hoiu-  in  spring  water, 
then  lay  it  in  a  stewpan,  and  cover  it  with 
cold  water,  and  h  ilf  a  gallon  over;  as  it  be- 
comes warm,  a  great  deal  of  scum  will  rise, 
which  must  be  immediately  removed ;  let  it 
boil  gently  for  one  hour,  take  it  up,  and  when 
almost  Colli,  cut  the  head  into  pieces  about 
an  inch  and  a  half  by  an  inch  and  a  quarter, 
and  the  tongue  into  mouthfuls,  or  rather 
make  a  side-dish  of  the  tongue  and  brains. 

When  the  head  is  taken  out,  put  in  the 
stock  me;it,  about  five  pounds  of  knuckle  ofc 
veal,  and  as  much  Ijeef;  add  to  the  stock  all 
the  trimming*!  and  bones  of  the  head,  skim 
it  well,  and  then  cover  it  close,  and  let  it 
boil  five  hours  (reserve  a  couple  of  quarts  of 
this  to  make  gravy  sauces) ;  then  strain  it  off, 
and  let  it  stand  till  the  next  morning;  then 
take  off  the  fat,  set  a  large  stewpan  on  the 
fire  with  half  a  pound  of  good  fresh  butter, 
twelve  ounces  of  onions  sliced,  and  four  oun- 
ces of  green  sage  ;  elrip  it  a  little;  let  these 
fry  one  hour ;  then  rub  in  half  a  pound  of 
flour,  and  by  degrees  add  your  broth  till  it  is 
the  thickness  of  cream ;  season  it  with  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ground  allspice  and 
\  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper  ground  very 
fine,  salt  to  your  taste,  and  the  rind  of  one 
lemon  peeled  very  thi;i ;  let  it  simmer  very 
gep'ly  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve;  do  not  rub  your  soup 
to  get  it  through  tlie  sieve,  or  it  will  make  it 
grouty;   if  it   does  not  run  through  easily, 


knf»ck  yonr  wooden  «poon  against  the  sidt 
of  your  sieve;  put  it  in  a  clean  stewpan  with 
the  head,  and  season  it  by  adding  to  each 
gallon  of  soup  half  a  pint  of  wine^;  Uiis  should 
be  Madeira,  or,  if  you  wish  to  darken  the 
color  of  your  soup,  claret,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice;  let  it  sinuner  gently 
till  die  meat  is  tender ;  this  may  take  from 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour:  take  care  it  is  not 
over-done ;  stir  it  frequently  to  prevent  the 
meat  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan, 
and  when  the  meat  is  quite  tender  the  soup 
is  ready. 
(  A  head  weighing  twenty  pounds,  and  ten 
pounds  of  stock  meat,  will  make  ten  quartA 
of  excellent  soup,  besides  die  two  quarts  of 
stock  you  have  put  by  for  made  dishes. 

Obs. — If  thei  e  is  more  meat  on  the  head 
than  you  wish  to  put  in  the  soup,  prepare  it 
for  a  pie,  and,  with  the  addition  of  a  calPs 
foot  boiled  tender,  it  will  make  an  excellent 
ragout  pie;  season  it  with  zest,  and  a  little 
minced  onion,  put  in  half  a  tea-cupful  of 
stock,  cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it 
one  hour:  when  the  soup  conies  from  table, 
if  there  is  a  deal  of  meat  and  no  soup,  put  it 
into  a  pie-dii>h,  season  it  a  little,  and  add 
some  little  stock  to  it;  then  cover  it  with 
paste,  bake  it  one  hour,  and  you  liave  a 
good  mock  turtle  pie. 

To  season  it,  to  each  gallon  of  soup  pnt 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  same  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  and  one  of  essence  of 
anchovy,  half  a  pint  of  wine  (this  should  be 
Madeira,  or,  if  you  wish  to  darken  the  color 
of  your  soup,  claret),  a  tea-spoonful  of  curry 
powder,  or  a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  cayenne, 
and  the  peel  of  a  lemon  pared  as  tliio  ag 
possible;  let  it  simmer  five  minutes  more, 
take  out  the  lemon-peel,  and  the  soup  is  ready 
f(»r  the  tureen. 

While  the  soup  is  doing,  prepare  for  each 
tureen  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  mock  turtle 
forcemeat  balls,  and  put  them  into  the  tureen. 
Brain  balls,  or  cakes,  are  a  very  elegant  ad- 
dition, and  are  made  by  lioiling  the  brains 
for  ten  minutes,  then  putting  diem  in  cold 
water,  and  cutting  them  into  pieces  about  as 
big  as  a  large  nutmeg ;  take  savory,  or  lemon 
tliyme  dried  and  finely  pinvdered,  nutmeg 
grated,  and  pepper  and  salt,  and  |:x)un(l  thera 
all  together;  beat  up  an  egg,  dip  the  brains 
in  it,  and  then  roll  them  in  this  mixture,  and 
make  as  much  of  it  as  possible  stick  to  them; 
dip  them  in  the  egg  again,  and  then  in  finely- 
grated  and  sifted  bread-crumbs;  fry  them  id 
hot  fat,  and  send  them  up  as  a  side  dish. 

A  veal  sweetbread,  not  too  much  done  or 
it  will  break,  cut  into  pieces  the  same  size 
as  you  cut  die  calf's  head,  and  put  in  the 
soup,  just  to  get  warm  before  it  goes  to  table, 
is  a  su|)erb  "  bonyte  bouche;"  and  pickled 
tongue,  stewed  till  very  tender,  and  cut  into 
raoudifuls,  is  a  favorite  addition.     We  order 


SOUPS 


208 


SOUPS 


tlie  meat  to  be  cut  into  mouthfuls,  that  it 
may  be  eaten  with  a  spoon:  the  knife  and 
fork  have  no  business  in  a  soup-plate. 

N.  B. — In  helping  this  soup,  the  distri- 
buter of  it  sliould  serve  out  the  meat,  force- 
meat, and  gravy,  in  equal  parts ;  however 
trifling  or  needless  this  remark  may  appear, 
the  writer  has  often  suffered  from  die  want 
of  such  a  hint  being  given  to  the  soup-serv- 
er, who  has  sometimes  sent  a  plate  of  mere 
gi-avy  widiout  meat,  at  odiers,  of  meat  with- 
out gravy,  and  sometimes  scarcely  any  thing 
but  forcemeat  balls. 

Obs. — This  is  a  delicious  soup,  within 
tlie  reach  of  those  who  "  eat  to  live ; "  but 
if  it  had  been  composed  expressly  for  those 
who  only  "  live  to  eat,"  I  do  not  know  how 
it  could  have  been  made  more  agreeable:  as 
it  is,  tlie  lover  of  good  eating  will  *'  wish  his 
tliroata  mile  long,  and  every  inch  of  it  palate." 


MGOR-FOV.'T,.       It   may   be 

made  with  or  wiUiout  brown  gravy  soup; 
when  with  the  former,  six  biids  are  sutii- 
cient,  when  with  moor-fi>\\  I  only,  buil  five  in 
four  quarts  of  water,  pound  tiie  breasts  in  a 
mortar  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  put  it 
with  the  legs,  backs,  and  Uiree  more  moor> 
fowl,  cut  down  in  joints,  into  the  liquor, 
season  witli  a  pint  of  Port  wine,  |X|.|,ci, 
and  salt,  and  let  it  boil  an  li  >i  r.  \Vli(h 
only  six  birds  are  used,  pound  the  breasts 
of  three  or  four. 


MOCK  MOCK  TURTLE.  Line 

the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  that  will  hold  five 
pints,  witli  an  ounce  of  nice  lean  bacon  or 
ham,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  gravy  beef, 
a  cow-heel,  tlie  inner  rind  of  a  carrot,  a  sprig 
of  lemon  thyme,  winter  savory,  three  times 
tlie  quantity  of  pai-sley,  a  few  green  leaves 
of  sweet  basil,  and  two  eschalots;  put  in  a 
large  onion,  witli  four  cloves  stuck  in  it, 
eighteen  corns  of  allspice,  the  same  of  black 
[lepper ;  pour  on  these  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  cold  water,  cover  the  stewpan,  and  set  it 
on  a  slow  fire,  to  boil  gently  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour ;  then,  for  fear  the  meat  should 
catch,  take  off  the  cover,  and  watch  it ;  and 
when  it  has  got  a  good  brown  color,  fill  up 
die  stewpan  with  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
simmer  very  gendy  for  two  hours:  if  you 
wish  to  have  tlie  full  benefit  of  the  meat, 
only  stew  it  till  it  is  just  tender,  cut  it  into 
mouthfuls,  and  put  it  into  the  soup.  To 
thicken  it,  pour  two  or  three  table-spoonftils 
of  flour,  a  ladleful  of  die  gravy,  and  stir  it 
quick  till  it  is  well  mixed ;  pour  it  back  in- 
to the  stewpan  where  the  gravy  is,  and  let 
it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour  longer; 
skim  it,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  tamis 
into  the  stewpan:  cut  the  cow-heel  into 
pieces  about  an  inch  square,  squeeze  through 
a  sieve  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  black 
|)epper,  as  much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  lie 
on  a  sixpence,  and  a  glass  of  Madeira  or 
Sherry  wine;  let  it  all  simmer  together  for 
five  minutes  longer.  Forcemeat  or  egg  balls 
may  be  added  if  you  please. 

A  pound  of  veal  cutlets,  or  the  belly  pait 
of  pickled  pork,  or  nice  double  tripe  cut  in- 
to pieces  about  an  inch  square,  and  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  rounded  and  trimmed  neat- 
ly from  all  skin,  gristle,  &c.  and  fit«"wed  till 
they  are  tender,  will  be  a  great  addition. 


MULLAGATAWNY.  (1)  Put 

half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  widi  six  large 
onions  sliced,  three  cloves  of  garlic,  some 
j  chopped  parsley,  and  sweet  marjoram,  into 
j  a  stewpan,  let  it  stew  over  a  slow  fire  till 
of  a  light  brown  color;   cut  in  small  pieces 
j  five  pounds  of  lean  beef,  and  let  diat  stew 
I  till  the  gravy  be  extracted,  and  then  put  in 
j  diree  quarts  of  boiling  water,   and  half  a 
j  pound  of  Scotch  barley,  and  let  it  simmer 
four   hours   very   slowly;    mix    four   table- 
spoonfuls  of  cuny-powder  with  cold  water, 
and  add  it  to  the  stock ;  take  out  the  beef, 
and  rub  the  bailey  dirough  a  sieve,  to  thick- 
en the  soup.     Cut  a  fowl  in  joints,  skin  it, 
and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, and  let  it  stew  till  quite  tender ;    the 
8tewj)an  must  be  kept  closely  covered :  this 
to  be  added  to  the  soup,  the  last  diiiig,  wiUi 
a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons.     Boiled  rice  must  always  be  &er\ed 
widi  diis  soup. 


MULLAGATAWNY.      (2) 

Make  a  strong  stock  of  the  bones  of  roasted 
beef,  mutton,  and  fowl ;  while  it  is  prepar- 
ing, put  into  a  stewj^an,  with  six  ounces  of 
butter,  diree  quarts  of  sliced  turnip,  two 
quarts  of  carrots,  and  eight  large  onions 
also  sliced;  let  them  stew  upon  the  stove  till 
tender ;  dien  add  three  quarts  of  tiie  pre- 
pared stock,  a  large  slice  of  the  crumb  of 
bread,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cuny- 
powder;  let  them  stew  four  or  five  hours; 
strain  it  through  a  tammy  cloth,  with 
two  wooden  spoons,  taking  care  that  no 
bones  be  left  amongst  the  vegetables ;  if  too 
diick  to  go  through,  add  more  stock.  Then 
cut  a  fow'l  in  pieces,  fry  it  in  a  frying-pan 
with  butter,  and  add  it  to  the  soup;  after 
it  has  boiled  a  little,  draw  it  to  the  side 
of  the  stove,  and  let  it  simmer,  that  the 
grease  may  be  taken  off.  A  liltle  good 
beef  stock,  in  addition  to  diat  made  of  the 
bones  will  be  an  improvement.  It  is  some- 
times thickened  with  whole  or  ground  rice,  | 
instead  of  bread,  and  ought  to  be  made'' 
upon  a  stove.  h 

ON10.\.     Boil  in  four  quarts  of 


water  six  pounds  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  w'itb 


SOUPS 


209 


SOUPS 


a  dessert-spoonful  of  wliole  white  pepjrer, 
and  a  few  hludcs  of  innce;  when  the  meat 
is  so  much  hailed  as  to  leave  the  ix.iie,  ftiain 
off  the  stock.  The  folhwing  d.iy  b.iil  nine 
or  ten  large  Spanish  onions  in  milk  and 
water,  till  sufficiently  tender  to  |)ulp  ihrongli 
a  sieve;  take  the  fat  off  from  the  top  of  the 
stock,  boil  it  up,  and  add  the  onions  with 
about  a  (jnarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter 
worked  with  two  heat>ed  table-spoonfuls  of 
sifted  Hour  of  rice,  and  a  little  salt;  l)oil  it 
getitly  f)r  half  an  hour,  stirring  it  constantly, 
and  a  little  before  serving,  stir  in  half  a  pint 
of  rich  cream. 

OX-HEAD,     Should   be    pre- 


pared tiie  day  belore  it  is  to  be  eaten,  as  you 
cannot  rut  the  meit  off  the  liead  into  neat 
moutlifnis  unless  it  is  cold:  theief>re,  the 
day  belore  yon  want  this  soup,  put  half  an 
ox-cheek  into  a  t«b  of  cold  water  to  soak 
for  a  couple  of  hiins;  then  break  the  bones 
that  have  not  Ijeen  broken  at  the  butcher's, 
and  wiisjj  it  very  well  in  warm  water;  put 
it  into  a  put,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water; 
when  it  boils,  skim  it  very  clean,  and  dien 
put  in  ime  head  of  celery,  a  couple  of  carrots, 
a  turnip,  two  large  onions,  two  dozen  ber- 
ries of  black  pep|)er,  same  of  allspice,  and 
a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  such  as  maijorain, 
lemon  thyme,  savory,  anti  a  liandfal  of  pars- 
ley;  cijver  the  soup-pot  close,  and  >!et  it  on  a 
slow  fire;  take  off  the  scum,  which  will  rise 
when  i*.  is  coming  to  a  boil,  an  I  set  it  by  the 
fireside  to  stew  very  gently  f.w  alx>ut  three 
hours;  take  out  the"  head,  hy  it  on  a  rli.sh, 
ytnur  the  soup  througli  a  fine  sieve  into  a 
stone-waie  pan,  and  set  it  and  the  head  by 
in  a  cool  j)lace  till  the  next  day;  then  cut 
the  meat  into  neat  mouthfnls,  .-^kim  and  strain 
off  the  br(»th,  put  two  (|n.irts!  of  it  and  the 
meat  into  a  clean  stewpan,  let  if  simmer  very 
gently  for  half  an  hour  r»ng=»r,  and  it  is 
ready.  If  you  wish  it  diickened,  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan;  when  it  is 
melted,  fh"ow  in  as  mu  h  Hour  as  will  dry  it 
up;  when  they  are  all  well  mixed  together, 
and  browneJ  by  degret^s,  pour  to  this  your 
soup,  and  stir  it  well  together;  let  itsinnner 
for  h  df  an  hour  longer;  strain  it  through  a 
hair  sieve  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and  put  to 
it  the  meat  of  the  head  ;  let  it  stew  half  an 
hour  longer,  and  season  it  with  cayenne 
pepi^er,  salt,  an  1  a  glass  of  g  >od  wine,  «>r  a 
table-spoonful  of  brandy.  If  you  serve  it  as 
soup  for  a  dozei  [)eople,  thicken  «me  tureen, 
and  ee  id  up  the  meat  in  that;  and  send  up 
the  other  as  a  clear  gravy  soup,  with  some 
of  the  carrots  and  tui nips  shiedded,  or  cut 
into  shapes. 

OX-HEEL,     Must  be  made  the 

day  befnc  it  is  to  Ihj  eaten.      Procu.e  ,\n 
ox-heel  undressed,  or  only  scalded,  and  two 
18*' 


that  have  been  boiled  as  they  usually  are  at 
the  tri|)e  sht)ps. 

Cut  (he  meat  off  the  boiled  heels  into  neat 
mouthfnls,  and  set  it  by  on  a  plate;  put  the 
trimmings  and  bones  in  a  stewpan,  with  three 
quarts  of  water,  and  theunl)oiled  heel  cut  into 
(juirters;  furnish  a  stewpan  with  two  onions, 
and  two  turnips  pared  and  sliced;  pare  off 
the  red  part  of  a  couple  of  large  carrots,  add 
a  couple  of  eschalots  cut  in  half,  a  bunch  of 
savory  or  lemon  thyme,  and  double  the  quan-. 
tity  of  parsley;  set  this  over,  or  by  the  side 
of  a  si  )W,  steady  fire,  and  keep  it  closely 
covered  and  siuunering  very  gently  (or  the 
soup  li(|uor  will  eva|K)rate)  f>r  at  least  sevea 
hours:  during  whicdi,  take  care  to  remove 
the  fat  and  scnni  that  will  rise  to  the  surface 
of  the  soup,  which  must  be  kept  as  clean  as 
pos.<iible. 

Now  strain  the  liquor  through  a  sieve, 
and  put  two  ounces  of  butler  into  a  clean 
stewpan;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  into  it  as 
much  dour  as  will  make  it  a  stiff  paste;  add 
to  it  by  degrees  the  soup  liquor;  give  it  a 
boil  up;  strain  it  througli  a  sieve,  and  pa| 
in  die  |)eel  of  a  lemon  p.ared  as  thin  as  pos^ 
sible,  and  a  couple  of  Lay-leaves,  and  the 
meat  of  the  boiled  neels;  let  it  go  on  siiiv* 
mei  ing  for  half  an  hour  longer,  i.  e.  till  the 
meat  is  tender.  Put  in  the  juice  of  a  leinow, 
a  glass  of  wine,  and  a  table-sf)oonfnl  of  mush- 
room  ketchup,  and  the  soup  is  ready  for  the 
tureen. 

'J'hose  who  are  disposed  to  make  this  a 
more  sul)stantial  dish,  may  introduce  a 
couple  of  sets  of  goose  or  duck  giblets,  or 
ox-tails,  or  a  pound  of  veal  culleti?,  cut  into 
moudifuls. 

OX-TAIL.    Three  tails,  costing 

about  2d.  each,  will  make  a  tureen  of  soup 
(desire  the  butcher  to  divide  them  at  tlie 
joints);   lay  them  to  soak   in  warm  water, 
i  while  you  get  ready  the  vegetables. 
I       Put  into  a  gallon   stewpan  eight  cloves, 
j  two  or  ihi-ee  onions,  half  a  drachm  of  all- 
spice, and  the  same  of  black   |)epper,  and 
1  the  tails:  cover  them  with  cold  water;  skim 
I  it  carefully,  when  and  as  long  as  you  see 
any  scum  rise;   then  cover  the  f)ot  as  close 
as   |K)s«ible,  and   set   it  on   the  side  of  the 
'  fire  to  keep  gently  simmering  till  the  meat 
l)ecomes   tender   and   will  leave  the   Iwnea. 
easily,  U^cause  it  is  to  be  eaten  with  aspoon, 
I  without  tlie  iussistance  of  a  knife  or  fork  J  thi» 
will  rtK|nire  atiuut  two  houis:  mind  it  is  not 
done  too  much:  when  perfectly  tender,  take 
out  the  meat  and  cut   it  off  the  l)ones,  in 
neat  moutlifnis;  ski.ii  the  broth,  and  strain 
j  it  through  a  hie\e;   if  you  prefer  a  ihicken- 
i  e  t  8ou|<,  put  iknn-  an  i  buttcH.,  as  directed  ia 
the   preceding    ie-ei|.f;    or   put  two    tablo". 
spo<inful.s  of  tin;  f.tt  yoiv  have  taken  off  the. 
broth  into  a  clean  st^vvp^^it  vvitli  as  muc^ 


SOUPS 


210 


SOUPS 


flour  as  will  make  it  into  a  paste  j  set  this 
over  the  fire,  and  stir  them  well  together; 
then  pour  in  die  brodi  by  degrees,  stirring 
it,  and  mixing  it  with  the  thickening;  let 
it  simmer  for  another  half  hoar,  and  when 
you  have  well  skinuued  it,  and  it  is  quite 
^raoodi,  tlien  strain  it  througli  a  tarais  into 
a  clean  stevvpan,  put  in  the  meat,  with  a 
itable-spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  glass 
of  wine,  and  season  it  with  salt. 

Obs. — If  die  meat  is  cut  off  the  bones, 
you  must  have  diree  tails  for  a  tureen,  some 
put  an  ox-cheek  or  tails  in  an  eartlien 
pan,  with  all  die  ingredients  as  above,  and 
eend  diem  to  a  slow  oven  for  five  or  six 
hours. 

PEAS,  GREEN.  (1)  A  peck  of 


peas  will  make  you  a  good  tureen  of  soup. 
In  shelling  them,  put  die  old  ones  in  one 
basin,  and  the  young  ones  in  another,  and 
keep  out  a  pint  of  them,  and  boil  them 
separately  to  put  into  your  soup  when  it  is 
finished:  put  a  large  saucepan  on  the  fire 
half  full  of  water ;  when  it  boils,  put  the 
peas  in,  widi  a  handful  of  salt;  let  them 
boil  till  they  are  done  enough,  i.  e.  from 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  their 
age  and  size;  dien  drain  Uiem  in  a  colan- 
der, and  put  them  into  a  clean  gallon  stew- 
pan,  and  three  quarts  of  plain  veal  or  mut- 
ton broth  (drawn  from  meat  without  any 
Bj)ices  or  herlis,  &c.  which  would  overpow- 
er the  flavor  of  the  soup)  ;  cover  the  stewpan 
close,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  to  stew 
gently  for  an  hour ;  add  a  tea-cupful  of  bread 
cruml>s,  and  Uien  rub  it  through  a  tamis  in- 
to another  stewpan ;  stir  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  if  it  is  too  thick,  add  a  little 
more  broth:  have  ready  boiled  as  for  eating, 
a  pint  of  young  peas,  and  put  them  into  die 
soup ;  season  with  a  little  sak  and  sugar. 

Some  cooks,  while  this  soup  is  going  on, 
slice  a  couple  of  cucumbers  (as  you  would 
f^r  eating) ;  take  out  the  seeds ;  lay  Uiem 
on  a  ciodi  to  drain,  and  then  flour  them, 
and  fry  Uiem  a  light  brown  in  a  little  but- 
t^r ;  ptit  Uiera  into  the  soup  the  last  thing 
l>efoie  it  goes  to  table. 

If  the  soup  is  not  green  enough,  pound  a 
handful  of  pea-hulls  or  spinage,  and  squeeze 
tjae  juice  through  a  cloth  into  the  soup:  some 
leaves  of  mint  may  be  added,  if  approved. 


PEAS,  GREEN.     (2)    Put  a 

pint  of  old  green  peas  into  diree  quarts  of 
water,  a  slice  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  two 
onions,  a  sprig  of  mint,  some  salt  and  pep- 
per; boil  them  till  the  peas  are  perfectly 
soft,  then  pulp  them  through  a  sieve ;  have 
ready  two  lettuces  stewed  tender  in  butter, 
and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  young  green  peas 
Ijoiled;  put  them  into  the  soup  with  a  little 
iipinach  juice,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 


the  juice  of  the  youngest  pea  pods,  and  boil 
it  all  together  before  serving. 

PEAS,  GREEN,  WITHOUT 


MEAT.  Take  a  quart  of  green  peas  (keep 
out  half  a  ])int  of  the  youngest ;  boil  them 
separately,  and  put  them  in  the  soup  when 
it  is  finished) ;  put  them  on  in  boiling  water; 
boil  them  tender,  and  dien  pour  off  the  wa- 
ter, and  set  it  by  to  make  the  soup  with:  put 
the  peas  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  them  to 
a  mash ;  then  put  them  into  two  quarts  of 
the  water  you  boiled  the  peas  in;  stir  all 
well  together ;  let  it  boil  up  for  about  five 
minutes,  and  then  rub  it  dirough  a  hair  sieve 
or  tamis.  If  the  peas  are  good,  it  w  ill  be 
as  thick  and  fine  a  vegetable  soup  as  need 
be  sent  to  table 

PEAS,  OLD.   (1)  Put  a  pound 

and  a  half  of  split  peas  on  in  four  quaits  of 
water,  with  roast  beef  or  mutton  bones,  and 
a  ham  bone,  two  heads  of  celery,  and  four 
onions,  let  them  boil  till  the  peas  be  suflli- 
ciently  soft  to  pulp  through  a  sieve,  strain  it, 
put  it  into  the  pot  with  pepper  and  sah,  and 
boil  it  nearly  an  hour.  Two  or  three  hand- 
fuls  of  spinach,  well  washed  and  cut  a  little, 
added  when  the  soup  is  strained,  is  a  great 
improvement;  and  in  the  summer  young 
green  peas  in  place  of  the  spinach.  A  tea- 
spoonful  of  celery  seed,  or  essence  of  celery, 
if  celery  is  not  to  be  had. 

PEAS,  OLD.    (2)    Boil  in  five 


quarts  of  water  one  quart  of  split  peas,  an 
ounce  of  butter,  four  pounds  of  beef,  two 
carrots,  three  turnips,  four  heads  of  celery, 
three  onions,  some  salt  and  black  pepper; 
boil  them  till  the  peas  are  dissolved  and 
will  easily  pulp,  put  it  all  tlumigh  a  sieve, 
dien  put  the  soup  over  the  fire  widi  diree 
ounces  of  butter  and  a  table-s^ioonful  of  flour, 
and  boil  a  small  bit  of  lean  ham  in  it,  till  it 
is  time  to  serve;  take  it  out  before  dishing, 
and  have  ready  some  celery  stewed  in  butter, 
and  ft-ied  bread  cut  in  dice,  and  dried  mint 
rubbed  very  fine,  to  send  to  table  with  it. 


— PEAS,  OLD.    (3)  Boil  m  four 

quarts  of  water  a  shank  of  ham,  or  a  piece 
of  bacon,  and  alwut  half  a  pound  of  mutton, 
or  salt  beef,  and  a  pint  of  split  pens ;  boil 
all  together  very  gently  till  die  peas  are 
quite  soft,  strain  them  through  a  hair  sieve, 
and  bruise  them  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  till 
all  is  pulped  through,  then  boil  die  soup  gent- 
ly for  one  hour  before  serving.  Thin  slices 
of  bead  toasted  and  cut  in  dice  to  !«  served 
with  it,  either  upon  a  dish  or  in  the  soup ; 
if  in  the  soup,  it  should  be  fried  in  butter, 
and  dried  mint  rubl)ed  fine  and  sent  to  table 
in  a  small  dish.  It  may  \)e  also  made  widi 
four-pence  worth  of  bones,  boiled  for  some 


SOUPS 


211 


SOUPS 


hours  in  four  quarts  of  water,  with  a  carrot, 
a  head  of  celery,  three  onions,  some  pepper 
and  sah,  strained,  and  the  next  day  the  fat 
taken  off,  and  the  peas  boiled  in  the  liquor 
with  a  little  bit  of  butter,  till  sufficiently  ten- 
der to  pulp  through  a  sieve. 

PEAS,  PLAIN.     To  a  quart 


of  split  peas,  and  two  heads  of  celery  (and 
most  cooks  would  put  a  large  onion),  put 
three  quarts  of  broth  or  soft  water ;  let  tliem 
simmer  gently  on  a  trivet  over  a  slow  fire 
for  three  hours,  stirring  up  every  quarter  of 
an  hour  to  prevent  the  peas  burning  at  the 
bottom  of  die  soup-kettle  (if  the  water  boils 
away,  and  the  soup  gets  too  thick,  add  some 
boilmg  water  to  it) ;  when  they  are  well  sof- 
tened, work  them  through  a  coarse  sieve, 
and  then  through  a  fine  sieve  or  a  tamis; 
wash  out  your  stewpan,  and  then  retui-n  the 
soup  into  it,  and  give  it  a  boil  up ;  take  off 
any  scum  that  comes  up,  and  it  is  ready. 
Prepare  fried  bread,  and  dried  mint,  as  di- 
rected in  Old  Peas  (2)  and  send  them  up 
with  it  on  two  side  dishes. 

Obs. — This  is  an  excellent  family  soup, 
produced  with  very  little  trouble  or  expense. 

PIGEON.  (1)  Have  a  strong  beef 


stock,  highly  seasoned,  and  if  for  rich  soup, 
take  six  or  eight  pigeons  according  to  their 
size,  wash  tliem  clean,  cut  off  the  necks,  pin- 
ions, livers  and  gizzards,  and  put  them  into 
the  stock;  quarter  the  pigeons  and  brown 
them  nicely;  after  having  strained  the  stock, 
put  in  the  pigeons;  let  them  boil  till  nearly 
ready,  which  will  be  in  about  half  an  hour, 
then  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour,  rubbed 
down  in  a  tea-cupful  of  the  soup,  season  it 
with  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  a  tal)le-spoonful 
of  lemon  juice  or  of  vinegar,  and  one  of 
mushroom  ketchup;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes 
after  all  these  ingredients  are  put  in,  and 
serve  it  with  the  pigeons  in  the  tureen;  a 
better  thickening  than  flour  is  to  boil  quite 
tender  two  of  the  pigeons,  take  off  all  the 
meat  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  rub  it  through 
a  sieve,  and  put  it,  with  the  cut  pigeons, 
into  the  strained  soup.  To  make  partridge 
soup,  paitridges  may  be  substituted  for  pig- 
eons, when  only  four  birds  will  be  required ; 
pound  the  breast  of  one. 

PIGEON.    (2)    Take  eight  pig. 


it  boils,  mix  in  a  handful  of  bread  crumba, 
keep  stirring  them  with  a  knife  tjfl  of  a  fine 
brown;  boil  the  whole  pigeons  till  they  be- 
come tender  in  the  stock  witli  the  herbs,  and 
fried  bread.  If  the  soup  be  not  sufficiently 
hi»h  seasoned,  add  more  mixed  spices  anS 
salt. 


PORTABLE.    Put  on,  in  four 

gallons  of  water,  ten  pounds  of  a  shin  of 
beef,  free  from  fat  and  skin,  six  pounds  of  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  and  two  fowls,  break  the 
bones  and  cut  the  ftieat  into  small  pieces, 
season  with  one  ounce  of  whole  black  pep- 
per, quarter  of  an  ounce  of  Jamaica  pepper, 
and  tlie  same  of  mace,  cover  the  pot  very 
closely,  and  let  it  simmer  for  twelve  or  four- 
teen hours,  and  then  strain  it.  The  follow- 
ing day,  take  off  the  fat,  and  clear  the  jelly 
from  any  sediment  adhering  to  it;  boil  it 
gently  upon  a  stove,  without  covering  the 
saucepan,  and  stir  it  frecjuently  till  it  be- 
comes very  thick  and  in  lumps  about  the  pan. 
Put  it  into  saucers  about  half  full,  and  when 
cold  lay  the  cakes  upon  flannel  to  dry  before 
the  file  or  in  die  sun ;  keep  them  in  a  tin 
box,  with  white  paper  between  each  cake. 
About  an  ounce  weight  will  make  a  pint  of 
rich  soup ;  pour  boiling  water  upon  it  with 
a  little  s:ilt,  and  stir  it  till  it  dissolves.  It 
also  answers  well  for  gravies  and  all  brown 
sauces. 

FOR  THE  POOR,    Wash  an 


ox-head  very  clean ;  break  the  bones,  and 
cut  the  meat  in  pieces;  put  it  on  in  thirteen 
gallons  of  water,  and  a  peck  and  a  half  of 
potatoes,  half  a  peck  of  turnips,  the  same 
quantity  of  onions,  and  some  carrots ;  peel  and 
cut  them  all  down.  A  handfiil  of  pot  herbs, 
I  and  two  quarts  of  oatmeal;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Cover  the  pot  closely,  and 
let  it  stew  till  the  next  morning;  add  as 
much  hot  water  as  may  have  wasted  in  boil- 
ing, and  let  it  stew  for  some  hours  longer, 
when  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  This  soup  will 
\ye  found  very  good  for  a  family  dinner. 


eons,  cut  down  two  of  tlie  oldest,  and  put 
them,  with  the  necks,  pinions,  livers,  and 
gizzards  of  the  others,  into  four  quarts  of 
water;  let  it  boil  till  the  substance  be  extrac- 
ted, and  strain  it;  season  the  pigeons  with 
mixed  spices  and  salt,  and  truss  them  as  for 
stewing ;  pick  and  wash  clean  a  handful  of 
pai-sley,  chives  or  young  onions,  and  a  good 
t^eal  of  spinach  ;  chop  them ;  put  iiv  a  frying- 
pan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  when 


QUEEN.     Pound  in   a  marble 

mortar  the  white  meat  of  three  cold  roasted 
fowls,  and  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds 
blanched ;  add  a  little  cream  whilst  pound- 
ing. Boil  this  with  four  quarts  of  well-sea- 
soned beef  stock,  then  strain  it,  and  just 
before  serving  stir  in  a  pint  of  cream. 

SANTE.    (1)    Peel   four  large 


onions,  cut  them  small,  with  four  white  let- 
tuces, a  handful  of  spinach,  and  a  slice  of 
grated  bread.  Stew  all  these  ingredients 
for  an  hour  in  a  quart  of  broth  and  a  quarto: 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  then  add  three  pints- 
more  of  broth,  skim  ofl"  all  the  fat,  and  boil 
it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  season  with  pepper 


SOUPS 


212 


SOUPS 


and  salt.  Before  serving,  adrl  half  a  pint 
of  good  cream.  A  pint  of  green  peas,  ad- 
ded with  tlie  other  vegetables,  is  a  great  im- 
provement. 

SANTE.    (2)   Lay  six  or  eight 


alices  of  lean  ham,  witli  some  heef  ovei'  them, 
at  the  battom  of  a  stewpan,  then  some  veal, 
with  some  partri.lgerlegs,  or  moor  game,  or 
chicken,  salt,  |)eppercortis,  Jamaica  pepper, 
three  or  f.Hir  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  and  (me 
clove  of  garlic;  let  the  whole  stew  together 
till  it  takes  a  tine  brown  color,  then  (ill  it  up 
with  half  water,  and  half  good  beef  stock ; 
•  add  three  heads  of  celery,  two  good  turnips, 
parsley,  lemon  thyme,  two  carrots,  three 
large  onions,  and  a  small  bnnch  of  winter 
savofy;  when  the  whole  is  thoroughly  well 
done,  pass  it  through  a  lawn  sieve  into  a  ba- 
sin. Cut  two  good-sized  turnips  and  three 
large  leeks,  into  pieces,  about  the  thickness 
of  a  (juill,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  iong;  fry 
these  together  of  a  nice  brown  color:  next, 
shred  two  cabbage-lettuces,  (-elery,  endive, 
sorrel,  and  chervil ;  and  slew  them  down  on 
a  very  sl.»w  fire  with  a  small  bit  of  butter. 
When  done,  put  them  in  a  sieve  with  the 
turnips;  then  put  them  into  a  soup-pot,  and 
pour  the  soup  from  the  basin  over  them;  set 
it  on  a  stove,  skim  if,  and  as  soon  a<  it  boils, 
set  it  on  one  side,  and  let  it  simmer  for  two 
hour-s  very  gently;  take  the  crumb  of  a 
couple  <;f  French  rolls,  and  cut  if  into  round 
pie<;es,  which  brown  in  the  oven,  and  |)nt 
them  into  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  upon 
them.  If  you  think  proper,  it  may  l)e  clari- 
fied, the  same  as  od»er  clear  soups;  but  the 
real  Soup  de  jS'an/c  ought  not  to  be  clarified. 


SIMPLE.     Cut  small  one  pound 

of  carrots,  one  |X)un:l  of  tiu-nips,  half  a 
p<iund  of  onions,  one  lettuce,  a  little  celery, 
and  a  handful  ol'  parsley;  stew  them  for 
tiventy  minutes  with  a  (jtiarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  scmie  salt  an  I  |)ep|M'r;  then  put 
them  into  three  (|narts  of  stock,  made  with 
two  pounds  of  veal,  and  add  one  (|uart  of 
green  peas,  and  let  it  stew  for  fhiee  hours. 
Press  it  through  a  sieve,  and  boil  it  up  before 
sending  it  to  table. 

SPRIIVG.     Put  on  in  four  quarts 


of  water  a  knuckle  of  veal  cut  down,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  or  a  gam- 
mon of  bacon;  a  quart  of  gieen  split  peas; 
cut  small  three  or  f  mr  onions,  three  turnips, 
a  little  parsley,  tliyme,  celery,  and  one  leek  ; 
stew  them  all  together  till  the  peas  aie  very 
soft ;  take  out  the  meal  and  press  the  le- 
niainder  through  a  fi'ie  sieve;  season  the 
soup  wilh  pepiMir  and  s:df.  Cut  small  like 
|ieas  a  Iniiich  of  tiie  tn^s  of  aspaiag  is,  the 
iiearts  of  two  or  tiiree  cabb;ig.!S,  culling  oH' 
the  tup  part  and  tlie  outside  leaves,  and  a 


little  green  mint,  stew  them  till  tensor, 
kee{)ing  them  of  a  good  green,  and  add  them 
to  the  soup  a  (|uarfer  of  an  hour  bcfoie  serv- 
ing. If  it  shoidd  not  be  green  enongh, 
pound  some  spinach,  s(jueeze  the  juice 
through  a  cloth,  put  about  a  fiuarter  of  a 
pint  inl(»  the  tureen,  and  pour  in  the  soup, 
'I'his  is  the  best  method  to  make  gieen  peas 
soup  of  a  good  color. 

STOVE  OR  SPL^ACH.     Boil 


in  two  quarts  of  water  three  sliced  onions. 
Pick  and  clean  as  iinicli  spinach  as  will 
make  two  large  dishes,  paiboil  and  put  it  in 
a  cullender,  to  let  the  bitter  water  drip  from 
it;  let  cold  water  run  upon  it  dn-  a  minute 
or  two,  and  then  press  out  the  water.  Knead 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  with  a  table- 
spoonfnl  and  a  half  of  flour,  mix  it  w  ith  the 
spinach,  which  boil  fur  fifteen  minutes  in  the 
wafer  and  onions,  then  put  in  half  a  pint  of 
cream  or  good  milk,  some  salt  and  pepper, 
boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  more.  In  the 
season  of  green  peas,  a  quart  added  with 
the  spinach  is  a  great  impro\euient.  It  is 
common  to  boil  a  lamb's  head  and  pluck 
with  the  soup,  and  send  them  to  table  in  the 
tureen.  The  soup  is  then  calle<l  Lamb's 
Stove ;  but  with  the  peas  it  is  quite  as  good 
without. 

VEGETABLE.     Pare  and  cut 


small  one  dozen  of  common-sized  onions, 
five  large  yellow  turnip's,  two  heads  of  celeiy, 
and  the  red  part  of  three  large  carrots ;  wash 
and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  tw(»  oimces 
of  butter,  cover  it  cKjsely;  and  when  the 
vegetables  are  a  little  soft,  add  to  them  four 
(juarts  of  well-seasoned  giavy  soup  made  of 
roast  beef  Ixmes,  and  let  ii  stew  four  or  five 
hours;  rub  it  through  a  tauuny,  put  it  on  the 
fire,  boil  and  skim  it  lx?fore  serving. 

WINTER  VEGETABLE.    (I) 

Peel  and  slice  six  large  onions,  six  |)otatoes, 
and  lour  tiunips;  fry  them  in  half  a  |M)und  of 
butter  or  very  ftesh  dripping;  toast  a  crust 
of  bread  brown  and  haul,  put  it,  with  two  or 
three  heads  of  celery  cut  small,  some  herbs, 
pepper,  and  salt,  with  the  fii'd  vegelablr:^, 
into  five  pints  of  water,  to  stew  gently  for 
four  hours,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
add  a  little  cairot  and  celery  cut  small,  and 
some  chopped  parsley,  one  anchovy  or  a  red 
herring,  and  a  little  cayenne;  lx»il  it  till  the 
vegetables  are  tender. 

WINTER  VEGETABLE.    (2) 

To  every  gallon  of  water  allow,  when  cut 
d(»wn  small,  a  (juart  of  the  following  vegeta- 
bles; e<iual  (|uaulities  of  tiirni|s,  carrots,  and 
potatoes,  tlu<!e  tiiiicms,  two  heads  of  celery, 
and  a  bumh  of  sweet  heibs;  fiy  them  brown 
ill  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  add  tlie 


SOUPS 


213 


SOUPS 


water  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  it  till 
reduced  to  three  quarts,  and  serve  it  with 
filed  toasted  bread. 


VENISON.     Boil  down  in  five 

quaits  of  water  two  poiuids  of  a  shank  of 
veal,  or  fowl,  and  five  pounds  of  the  breast 
of  venison  cut  small;  two  oc  three  onions 
chopped,  some  whole  white  pepper  and  salt, 
witli  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham. 
Let  it  stew  till  it  be  completely  boiled  down, 
when  all  the  strength  will  be  extracted ;  rub 
it  tlirough  a  sieve,  thicken  it  with  a  little 
butter,  kneaded  in  flour,  and  add  a  pint  of 
Madeira,  and  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  twenty  minutes. 

BROWN  VENISON.    Cut  in 

small  pieces  six  or  seven  pounds  of  the 
breast  of  venison,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with 
two  or  three  ounces  of  butter;  cover  it 
closely,  stir  it  once  or  twice,  and  let  it  stew 
an  hour.  Mix  four  quarts  of  cold  Avater 
with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the  blood,  put  it 
on  the  fire  in  another  stewpan,  and  stir  it 
constantly  till  it  boil ;  tlien  add  the  stew  to 
it  with  an  onion  minced  small,  and  a  whole 
carrot,  some  salt,  black  and  Jamaica  pep- 
per. If  the  meat  be  young,  let  it  boil  gent- 
ly for  two  hours ;  if  old,  two  and  a  half  will 
be  necessai-y.  A  little  before  serving,  take 
out  the  carrot  and  all  the  bones,  leaving  a 
little  of  the  meat;  mix  in  half  a  pint  of 
Port  wine,  and  let  it  boil  a  short  time.  It 
may  be  thickened  with  a  little  flour  and 
buttei". 


VERMICELLI.    The 


be- 


fore it  is  required  make  four  quarts  of  good 
stock,  and  boil  in  it  one  carrot,  one  tiu-nip, 
four  onions,  one  or  two  parsley  roots,  three 
blades  of  mace,  salt,  and  some  white  pepper ; 
strain  it,  and,  lielure  using,  take  off  all  the 
fat ;  boil  in  some  of  the  liciuor  the  crumb  of 
three  French  rolls  till  soft  enough  to  mash 
smooth;  boil  the  soup  and  stir  well  in  the 
mashed  rolls;  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and,  before  serving,  add  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  beaten  witli  thi-ee  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream;  boil  in  water  two  or  three  ounces 
of  vermicelli  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
strain  and  put  it  into  the  tureen,  and  pom" 
the  soup  upon  it. 

— .  —  WHITE.  (1)  Boil  together  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  a  fowl,  or  two  chickens 
skinned,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  an  onion,  some 
salt,  and  a  little  whole  white  pepper;  take 
out  die  chickens  when  tender,  cut  them  in 
joints,  and  add  them  to  the  soup  when 
strained,  beat  up  the  yolks  of  nine  eggs,  mix 
tliem  with  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  well-l)oiled  lice;  stir  it  gradually  into 
the  soup,  and  heat  it  gently  before  serving. 


A  cow-heel  that  haa  been  previously  boiled, 
cut  up  in  pieces,  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
chickens. 

WHITE.     (2)    Take  a  good 


knuckle  of  veal,  or  two  or  three  short  shanks, 
boil  it  about  four  hours,  with  some  whole 
white  pepper,  a  litde  mace,  salt,  two  onions, 
and  a  small  bit  of  lean  ham ;  strain  it,  and 
when  cold  take  off  all  the  fat  and  sediment ; 
l)eat  up  six  yolks  of  eggs  and  mix  them  with 
a  pint  of  good  cream,  then  pour  the  boiling 
soup  upon  it  by  degrees,  stirring  it  well, 
and  if  it  is  liked,  add  the  best  part  of  the 
gristles. 

WHITE.     (3)    Put.on  in  four 


quarts  of  water,  a  knuckle  of  veal,  six  pounds 
weight,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham  or 
bacon,  two  slices  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  one 
ounce  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  put  in 
whole ;  six  middling-sized  onions,  two  heads 
of  celery,  some  whole  white  pepper,  three 
blades  of  mace,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a 
sprig  of  thyme;  stew  all  these  gently  for 
eight  hours,  strain  it,  and  when  cold  take 
off  all  the  fat;  boil  it,  and  just  before  serv- 
ing, take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in  very 
gradually  a  pint  of  thick  cream. 


WHITE.     (4)     Boil  in  four 

quarts  of  water  four  pounds  of  veal,  and  a 
fowl,  with  some  whole  white  pepper,  a  little 
mace,  and  three  middling-sized  onions  whole, 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  let  it  boil  three 
hours,  strain  it,  and  put  it  on  again  to  get 
quite  hot,  and  just  before  serving,  stir  in 
gradually  half  a  pint  of  cream  with  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  well  beaten.  Do  not  let  it  boil, 
as  diat  makes  the  eggs  curdle. 


WHITE.  (5)  Stew  in  three  quarts 

of  boiling  water,  till  quite  tender,  a  knuckle 
of  veal,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  whole 
rice,  tliree  whole  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
a  little  sweet. marjoram,  and  two  or  three 
blades  of  mace,  and  some  salt ;  a  little  before 
the  soup  is  strained,  add  two  anchovies; 
strain  through  a  hair  sieve  and  tlien  through 
a  silk  one,  or  tammy,  put  it  again  upon  the 
fire,  and  stir  in  half  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  or 
a  pint  of  milk  widi  tlie  yolks  of  two  eggs 
beat  up  in  it;  let  it  be  hot  but  not  boiling. 
If  it  is  required  to  be  richer,  boil  a  fowl  m 
the  stock,  with  two  ounces  of  pounded  blanch- 
ed svveet  almonds. 


WHITE.    (6)     Put  on  in  five 

quarts  of  water,  four  pounds  of  a  shank  of 
veal,  break  the  bone  well,  let  it  simmer  till 
it  be  reduced  nearly  half;  boil  a  tea-cupful 
of  whole  rice  till  very  tender,  pulp  it  through 
a  cullender,  strain  the  liquor,  and  add  die 
rice,  seJison  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  let 


SPA 


it  simmer  for  nearly  an  hour,  and  add,  a 
iittle  li<-fore  serving,  six  yolks  ot  eggs  beaten 
«xU-emeiy  well. 

SOUR  KROUT.  The  best  cabbage  for 
this  purpose  is  the  drum,  or  vviiite  Stras- 
burgh.  and  it  should  not  be  used  till  it  has 
endured  some  severe  frost;  the  stoi'ks  are 
then  cut  into  halves,  and  shred  donn  as  line 
as  |x»ssible  with  a  knife,  or  m<jre  properly 
with  a  plane  made  in  the  form  of  a  cucumlier 
slice.  Burn  a  little  juniper  in  a  ca&k  or  tub 
which  is  |->erfectly  sound  and  clean,  and  put 
a  little  leaven  into  the  seam  round  tlie  bot- 
-tom, — tlour  and  vinegar  may  be  substituted 
for  the  leaven;  dien  put  in  three  or  four 
handfuls  of  cabbage,  a  good  sprinkling  of 
salt,  and  a  teji-spoonfulol"  caraway  seed,  and 
press  this  hard  with  a  wooden  mallet;  next 
add  another  layer  of  cabbage,  with  sJilt  and 
caraway  seed,  as  at  first;  and  so  on  in  the 
same  manner  until  the  cask  I*  full,  ptessing 
down  each  layer  firmly  as  you  advance.  A 
good  deal  of  water  will  come  to  the  t(ip,  of 
which  a  part  may  be  taken  off.  The  ca.>k 
being  ftdl,  put  on  the  head  so  as  to  press 
upon  the  cabbage,  and  place  it  in  a  warm 
foliar  to  ferment;  when  it  has  worked  well 
for  diree  weeks,  ttike  off  the  sciun  which 
will  have  gathered  on  the  top,  and  lay  a 
clean  cloth  on  the  kront;  replace  the  head, 
and  put  two  or  dnee  heavy  stones  upon  it. 
The  juice  should  always  stand  upon  die  top. 
Thus  in  a  good  (Cellar  it  will  keep  for  yeais. 
When  to  be  dressed,  it  is  bulled  for  five  or 
«ix  hours  in  water,  or  stewed  with  a  little 
gravy,  and  may  Ix^  also  substituied  for  a 
crust  over  a  beef-steak  pie,  when  cheese  is 
grated  over  it. 

SOUR  KROUT  WITH  PIKE.  When 
llie  krout  is  boiled,  clean  a  large  pike, 
scrape  and  cut  it  into  neat  |)icces,  dip  them 
into  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  dien  into 
bread  crumbs,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  brown ; 
r«b  some  butter  upon  a  dish,  and  put  into 
it  a  layer  of  krout,  and  some  grated  cheese, 
then  a  layer  of  pike,  and  a  little  sour  cream ; 
tlien  krout,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  tie  full. 
On  the  top  put  some  bits  of  butter,  and 
some  good  brcjth  or  gravy ;  strew  crumlis 
of  bread  thickly  over  it,  and  bake  it  half 
an  iiour. 

SPANISH  PUFFS.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan,  half  a  pint  of  water  and  a  quarter  of 
a  p<jund  of  butter;  stir  it  till  it  boils,  and 
mix  in  four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour;  stir  it 
well  togedier,  and  add  six  yolks  and  four 
whites  of  eggs,  two  at  a  time;  let  it  co<jl, 
and,  with  a  dessert-spoon,  drop  it  into  lioil- 
it)g  clarified  dri|;ping  or  lard. 

To  make  ginger  puffs,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
pounded  ginger  may  Ix;  added. 


214  SPI 

SPARE  RIB  ROASTED.    See  Pork. 


SPICE  FOR  WHITE  SAUCE.  Pound 
two  ounces  of  pepper,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  inace,  grate  one  nutmeg,  and  the  ixiel  of 
one  lemon;  mix  all  logeUier  in  a  bottle. 

SPICE  FOR  GENERAL  USE.    One 

ounce  and  a  half  of  pep|x;r,  cinnamon,  nut- 
meg, and  ginger,  half  an  ounce  each,  and 
eight  cloves;  pound  and  mix  all  together  in 
a  Ixntle.  A  little  of  each  kind  of  spice 
should  be  well  dried,  pounded,  and  kept 
separately  in  small  bottles,  which  should  be 
labelled. 

SPINACH,  TO   DRESS.      Pick  the 

spinach  with  great  care;  strip  the  leaves 
from  die  stalks,  and  wash  it  in  several  wa- 
ters, till  perfectly  clean;  boil  the  spinach  in 
salt  and  water ;  drain  it  well;  jxiund  it  in 
a  moriar,  and  put  it  into  a  slewpan  with  a 
little  butter  and  broth,  and  let  it  stew  over 
a  slow  fire  f  »r  three-(]uarters  of  an  hour,  till 
it  l)e  very  dry;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fiesh  butter,  with  salt  and  grated 
nutmeg;  woik  the  spinach  well,  till  it  is 
thick,  but  take  care  die  butler  does  not 
turn  to  oil.  Gaini.sh  wilh  fried  toasts  of 
bread,  which  may  lie  cut  like  cock's  combs, 
or  in  any  other  form. 

SPINACH,  TO  BOIL.  (1)  Pick  it  very 
carefully,  and  wash  it  thoroughly  two  or 
three  times  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  then  put 
it  on  in  lioiling  water  with  a  little  salt;  let 
it  boil  nearly  twenty  minutes,  put  it  into  a 
cullender,  hold  it  under  the  water  cock,  and 
let  the  water  run  on  it  for  a  minute;  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  lieat  it  peifectly  smooth 
with  a  lieater  or  with  a  wooden  spoon,  add 
a  bit  (  f  butter,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
cream;  mix  it  well  together,  and  make  it 
hot  before  serving.  When  dished,  it  is 
scored  in  squares  with  tlie  back  of  a  knife. 

SPINACH,  TO  BOIL.  (2)  After 
Ijeing  nicely  picked  and  well  washed,  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  witii  no  more  water  dian 
adheiestoit;  add  a  little  salt;  cover  the 
pan  closely,  and  boil  it  till  tender,  frequent- 
ly shaking  it ;  beat  it  quite  smoodi,  adding 
butler  and  cream,  and  make  it  (piite  hot. 
Spinach  may  be  served  wilh  p<jaclied  eggs, 
or  fi  ied  sausages  laid  on  it. 

When  the  spinach  is  bitter,  it  is  prefera- 
ble to  Ixiil  it  in  water. 

SPINACH  TOASTS.  Boil  some  spi- 
nach  f<)r  a  (juarter  of  an  hour;  then  scjueezo 
out  all  die  water,  chop  it  small,  and  put  it 
into  a  inoitar,  wilh  three  or  four  s[K>onfuis 
of  apple  marmalade,  tlie  yolks  u(  four  hard* 
boilwl,  and  three  raw   eggs,   two  biscuiti; 


SP  R 


215 


STO 


eoaHed  in  cream,  sugar,  and  a  pinch  of  salt; 
pound  all  tliese  togetiier  to  a  |)a.<te,  put  it 
into  a  fiitih,  and  mix  with  it  a  few  dry  cur- 
rant:^,  and  thiee  or  faur  spoorfiiis  of  melted 
butter.  Cut  sume  slices  of  bread  half  an 
inch  thick,  four  inches  long,  and  two  broad ; 
toast  them  nicely,  and  spread  the  spinach, 
&c.  over  them,  to  the  thickness  of  half  an 
inch,  wash  each  over  with  white  of  egg; 
place  the  toasts  on  a  baking-tin  (well  l)ntter- 
ed)  and  bake  them  for  half  an  hour.  When 
done,  grate  nutmeg,  and  stjueeze  orange-juice 
over  them,  and  serve. 

SPRATS,  TO  BAKE.  Clean  them; 
take  off  the  heads;  put  tiiem  into  a  deep 
dish,  and  C(»ver  them  with  vinegar  and  wa- 
ter, e«jMal  (|nantities  of  each,  'I'o  a  quart  of 
liquid,  put  half  an  ounce  of  whole  black  pep- 
per, a  little  allspice,  two  or  three  bay-leaves, 
some  salt,  and  an  onion.  Tie  paper  over 
the  dish,  and  bake  diem  in  a  cool  oven,  or 
do  them  over  a  sluw  fire  in  a  water  bath. 
Herrings  may  l)e  done  in  this  way.  Both 
will  keep  good  some  weeks. 

SPRATS,  STEWED.  Wash  and  dry 
your  sprats,  atid  lay  them  as  level  as  you 
can  in  a  stewpan,  and  l)e(ween  every  layer 
of  sprats  put  three  |)eppercorns,and  as  many 
allspice,  with  a  few  grains  of  sidt;  barely 
cover  them  with  vinegar,  and  stew  them  one 
hour  over  a  slow  fire;  they  nnjst  not  boil: 
a  bay-leaf  is  s(jmetimes  added.  Herrings  or 
mackerel  may  be  stewed  the  same  way. 

SPRATS,  BROILED.  Ifyouhavenot 
a  sprat  gridiron,  gel  a  piece  of  pointed  iron 
wire  as  thick  as  packdnead,  and  as  long  as 
your  gri<liron  is  broad;  run  this  through  the 
heads  ol"  your  sprats,  sprinkle  a  little  flour 
and  salt  over  them,  put  your  gridiron  over  a 
clear,  (piick  fire,  turn  them  in  about  a  couple 
of  minutes;  when  die  other  side  is  brown, 
draw  out  the  wire,  and  send  up  the  fish  widi 
melted  butter  in  a  cup. 

Obs. — 'J'liat  sprats  are  young  herrings,  is 
evident  by  tlieir  anatomy,  in  which  there  is 
no  fierceptible  difference.  They  appear  verv 
soon  after  the  herrings  are  gone,  and  seeiii 
to  be  the  spawn  just  vivified. 

SPRIiVG  FRUIT— ^  Mock  Goose- 
berry Sauce  for  Mackerel,  fyc.  Make  a 
mannilade  of  three  dozen  sticks  of  ihnliarb, 
sweetened  with  moist  sugar;  pass  it  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  serve  up  in  a  sauce-boat. 

SPRING    FRUIT    TART.      Prepare 
rhubarb  as  alwve:  cut  it  into  small  pieces 
into   a   tart-dish;    sweeten    with  loaf-sugar  I 
pounded;  cover  it  with  a  gix/dshoit  crust) 
paste;  sift  a  Utile  sugar  over  the  top,  and  j 


bake  half  an  hour  in  a  rather  hot  oven ; 
up  cold. 


SPRING  CREAM,  or  Mock  Goose-^ 
berry  Fool.  Prepare  a  marmalade  as  di» 
rected  for  the  pudding:  to  wlii'^h  add  a  pint 
of  good  thick  cream ;  serve  up  in  glasses,  or 
in  a  deep  dish.  If  wanted  in  a  shape,  dis- 
solve two  ounces  of  isinglass  in  a  little  water; 
strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  when  nearly 
cold  put  it  to  the  cream ;  pour  it  into  a  jelly 
mould,  and  when  set,  turn  out  into  a  dish,, 
and  serve  up  plain. 

SPRING  FRUIT  SHERBET.     Boil 

six  or  eight  sticks  of  rliubai  b  (quite  clean): 
ten  minutes  in  a  (piart  of  water;  stniin  the 
li(|Uor  dirough  a  tamis  into  a  jug,  widi  the 
peel  of  a  lemon  cut  very  thin,  an:l  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  daiified  sugar;  let  it  stand  five 
or  six  hours,  and  it  is  fit  to  diink. 

SPRUCE  BEER.     See  Beer. 

SPROUTS  AND  YOUNG  GREENS. 

The  leceipt  for  cabbnges  will  answer  as  well 
for  sprouts,  only  they  will  lie  boiled  enough 
in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

STEAKS  OR  CHOPS.     See  Chops. 

STOCK,  FOR  BROWN  OR  WHITE 
SOUPS.  Take  a  povind  of  scate,  five  floun- 
ders, and  two  pounds  of  eels ;  cut  them  in 
pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  them,  a  little  inace,^ 
an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  a  head  of  celery, 
two  parsley  roots  sliced,  some  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  heibs;  cover 
close  ;  strain  it  off  for  use;  if  it  is  fir  brown 
soup,  fry  the  fish  brown  in  butter,  and  tlien 
put  it  to  stew. 

STOCK,  FOR  GRAVY  SOUP  OR 
GRAVY.  Cut  a  knuckle  of  veal  into  sli- 
ces, slice  also  a  pound  of  lean  beef,  and  a 
pound  of  die  lean  of  gammon  of  bacon ;  put 
these  into  a  stewpan,  with  three  scmped 
carrots,  a  couple  of  onions,  a  couple  of  tur- 
nips, two  heads  of  celery,  and  two  quarts 
of  water.  Let  the  meat  stew  till  cpiite  ten- 
der, but  it  must  not  be  brown.  When  thus 
prepared  it  will  serve  either  f()r  soup,  or 
brown  or  white  gravy ;  if  for  brown  gravy, 
it  must  be  fiist  colored  in  the  usual  manner. 

STOMACHIC  TINCTURE.  Peruvian 

bark,  bruised,  one  ounce  and  a  half,  orange- 
peel,  do.  one  ounce,  brandy,  or  proof  spirit, 
one  pint.  Let  these  ingiedients  steep  for 
ten  days,  shaking  the  lK)ttle  every  day;  let 
it  remain  (juiet  two  days,  and  then  decant 
tlie  clear   liquor.     Dose — a  lea-spoouful  ia 


STR 


216 


STU 


a  wine-glass  of  water,  twice  a  day,  when 
you  feel  languid,  i.  e.  when  the  stomach  is 
empty,  about  an  hour  before  dinner,  and  in 
the  evening.  This  agreeable  aromatic  tonic 
is  an  effective  help  to  concoction;  and  we 
are  under  personal  obligations  to  it,  for  fre- 
quently restoring  our  stomach  to  good  tem- 
per, and  procuring  us  good  appetite  and  good 
digestion.  In  low  nervous  affections  arising 
from  a  languid  circulation,  and  when  the 
stomach  is  in  a  state  of  debility  from  age, 
intemperance,  or  other  causes,  this  is  a  most 
acceptable  restorative. 

N.  B. — Tea  made  with  dried  and  bruised 
orange-peel,  in  the  same  way  as  common 
tea,  and  drank  with  milk  and  sugai-,  has 
been  taken  by  nervous  and  dyspeptic  per- 
sons widi  gi-eat  benefit.  Sucking  a  bit  of 
dried  orange-peel  about  an  hour  before  din- 
ner, when  the  stomach  is  empty,  is  very 
grateful  and  strengthening  to  it. 

STRAWBERRY  CREAM.  Put  six 
ounces  of  stravvloerry  jam  to  a  pint  of  cream, 
pulp  it  tlnough  a  sieve ;  add  to  it  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  whisk  it  fast  at  the  edge  of  a 
dish,  lay  the  froth  on  a  sieve,  add  a  little 
more  juice  of  lemon,  and  when  no  more  froth  | 
will  rise,  put  the  cream  into  a  dish,  or  into  | 
glasses;  and  place  tlie  froth  upon  it,  well 
drained.  j 


STRAWBERRIES  AND  RASPBER- 
RIES. From  either  of  these  fruits  agree- 
able wine  may  be  obtained,  by  following  tlie 
rules  given  for  making  currant  wine ;  but  it 
will  be  found  a  cheaper  and  a  better  meth- 
od, to  add  a  little  sirup  or  juice  of  the  fruit 
to  any  flavorless  currant  wine;  when  the 
fermentation  begins  to  decline,  currant  wine 
may  also  be  flavored  with  odoriferous  flow- 
ers, such  as  cowslip,  elder,  or  mignionetle. 
The  (juality  of  roughness  is  communicated 
by  catechu  and  keno,  chips  of  oak  and  of 
beech,  and  also  the  sloe;  a  small  quantity 
of  these,  or  of  the  flowers,  is  put  into  the 
cask  when  the  first  fermentation  is  over,  and 
as  soon  a?  the  wine  has  acquired  the  desired 
flavor,  it  is  racked  and  fined.  The  flavor- 
ing articles,  such  as  orris-root,  cloves,  gin- 
ger, sweet  and  biltar  almonds,  are  put  into 
a  muslin  bag,  and  hung  in  the  cask  for  a 
few  days,  during  the  stage  of  insensible  fer- 
mentation, that  is,  after  the  first  fermentation 
has  ceased;  care  being  taken  to  taste  the 
liquor  frequently,  so  that  the  flavoring  mat- 
ter may  be  withdrawn  as  soon  as  it  has  pro- 
duced the  desired  effect. 

STRAWBERRIES,  POUNDED,  for 

Strawberry    Cream.      Take    equal 

weight  of  sugar  and  of  strawberries ;  pound 

and  sift  the  sugar,  add  it  to  the  strawberries,  j 

and  pound  them  in  a  marble  mortar  till  per-  I      STUFFING    FOR    VEAL,    ROAST 


fectly  smooth.  Put  it  into  jars,  and  tie 
them  over  closely  with  paper.  It  will  keep 
good  for  several  months. 

STRAWBERRY  SOUFFLE.     Take 

a  basket  of  very  fine  strawberries,  pick,  and 
crush  them,  and  tlien  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  Whisk  the  whites  of  eighteen  eggs 
to  a  firm  froth,  to  which  add  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  powder  sugar,  stir  them  together  as 
lightly  as  possible ;  then  mix  them  witli  the 
strawberries.  Pour  the  whole  into  a  crotis- 
tade,  and  bake  it  for  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  when  done,  glaze  it,  and  serve. 

STRAWBERRY  TART.  Pick,  and 
put  into  a  basin  two  quarts  of  the  best  scar- 
let strawberries,  then  add  to  tliem  half  a 
pint  of  cold  thick  clarified  sugar,  and  half 
a  pint  of  Madeira,  with  the  juice  of  two  or 
three  lemons ;  mix  tliese  well  together,  with- 
out breaking  the  strawbenics,  and  put  them 
into  a  puff  paste,  previously  baked;  be  care- 
ful to  keep  diem  very  cool. 

STRING  BEANS.  See  French  Beans. 

STUFFING  WITHOUT  MEAT.  Sea- 
son a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  finely-minced 
laeef  suet,  and  an  eciual  quantity  of  grated 
bread,  with  grated  nutmeg,  lemon-peel,  lem- 
on thyme,  and  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper; 
mix  it  well  together,  and  bind  it  with  a 
well-lieaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  when  it  may  be 
used  for  stufiing  veal  and  fowl. 

STUFFING  FOR  TURKEY  OR 
FOWL.  Wash  a  quart  of  oystei-s  in  their 
own  liquor,  strain  it,  and  put  into  it  die 
oysters,  with  a  litde  mace,  whole  pepper, 
and  lemon-peel ;  when  par!x)iled,  chop  small 
a  dozen  and  a  half,  add  an  equal  weight  of 
grated  bread,  twice  the  (luantity  of  finely- 
minced  beef  suet,  the  yolks  of  three  hard- 
lK)iled  eggs,  one  anchovy,  a  little  salt,  pep- 
per, nutmeg,  lemon-peel,  and  some  minced 
parsley;  bind  it  with  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  For  the  sauce,  boil  with  the 
liquor  of  the  oysters,  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  one  anchovy, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  strain  it,  and 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour,  beat  it  up  with  tlie  remainder  of  the 
oysters. 

STUFFING  FOR  A  HARE.  Parboil 
the  liver,  and  mince  it ;  add  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  grated  bread,  double  the  quantity  of 
fat  bacon  chopped,  a  bit  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut.  Season  witli  pepper,  salt,  nut- 
meg, chopped  lemon  thyme,  and  parsley; 
bind  with  an  egg  beaten. 


STU 


217 


SUG 


Turkey,  Fowl,  &c.  Mince  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  beef  suet  (beef  marrow  is  bet- 
ter), the  same  weight  of  bread  crumbs,  two 
draclims  of  parsley  leaves,  a  draclun  and  a 
half  of  sweet  marjoram  or  lemon  thyme,  and 
the  same  of  grated  lemon-peel  and  onion 
cliopped  as  fine  as  possible,  a  little  pepper 
and  salt ;  pound  thoroughly  together  with  the 
yolk  and  white  of  two  eggs,  and  secure  it 
m  the  veal  with  a  skewer,  or  sew  it  in  with 
a  bit  of  thread.  Make  some  of  it  into  balls 
or  sausages;  flour  them,  and  boil,  or  fry 
tliem,  and  send  them  up  as  a  garnish,  or  in 
a  side  dish,  with  roast  poultry,  veal,  or  cut- 
lets, &c. 

N.  B. — This  is  about  the  quantity  for  a 
turkey  poult:  a  very  large  turkey  will  take 
ijearly  twice  as  much.  To  the  above  may 
be  acided  an  ounce  of  dressed  ham ;  or  use 
equal  parts  of  the  above  stuffing  and  pork 
sausage  meat  poimded  well  together. 

Obs. — Good  stuffing  has  always  been  con- 
sidered a  chief  thing  in  cookery:  it  has  given 
immortality  to 

"Puor  Roffer  Foviler,whn  'd  a  generous  mind, 
Nor  would  submit  to  have  his  hand  contin'd, 
Bui  aime  I  at  all, — }  et  never  could  excel 
In  any  thing  but  stuffing  of  his  veal." 

STUFFING  FOR  HARE.  Two  oun- 
ces of  beef  suet  chopped  fine ;  three  ounces 
of  fine  bread  crumbs;  parsley,  a  drachm; 
eschalot,  half  a  drachm ;  a  drachm  of  mar- 
joram, lemon  thyme,  or  winter  savory;  a 
drachm  of  grated  lemon-peel,  and  the  same 
of  pepper  and  salt:  mix  these  with  the  white 
and  yolk  of  an  egg;  do  not  make  it  thin — 
it  must  be  of  cohesive  consistence:  if  your 
stuffing  is  not  stiff  enough,  it  will  be  good 
for  nothing:  put  it  in  the  hare,  and  sew  it 
up.  If  the  liver  is  quite  sound,  you  may 
parboil  it,  and  mince  it  very  fine,  and  add 
it  to  the  above. 

STURGEON,  BAKED.  Clean,  and 
take  the  skin  from  a  small  sturgeon;  split  it 
along  the  belly,  without  separating  it.  Lay 
it  in  a  large  baking  dish,  season  it  with 
salt,  pepper,  pounded  sweet  herbs;  moisten 
with  oil,  lemon-juice,  and  a  bottle  of  white 
wine.  Put  it  in  the  oven,  baste  it  frequent- 
ly; make  it  a  nice  color,  and  serve  it  with 
its  own  gravy. 

STURGEON,   FRESH,  TO  BROIL. 

Cut  it  into  cutlets;  rub  them  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  beat  up;  strew  them  over  with 
sotne  parsley,  minced  very  fine,  and  mixed 
with  grated  bread  crumbs,  pepper,  and  salt ; 
put  them  into  pieces  of  white  paper  buttered, 
and  broil  them  gently.  Sauces; — oyster, 
melted  butter,  and  anchovy. 


STURGEON,  FRESH. 
19 


The  best  mode 


of  dressing  this,  is  to  have  it  cut  in  thio 
slices  like  veal  cutlets,  and  broiled,  and  rob- 
bed over  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  a  little 
pepper,  and  served  very  hot,  and  eaten  with 
a  squeeze  of  lemon-juice.  Great  care,  how- 
ever, must  lie  taken  to  cut  off  the  skin  bo- 
fore  it  is  broiled,  as  the  oil  in  the  skin,  if 
burned,  imparts  a  disgusting  flavor  to  the 
fish.  The  flesh  is  very  fine,  and  comee 
nearer  to  veal,  perhaps,  than  even  turtle. 
Sturgeon  is  frequently  plentiful  and  reason- 
able in  the  London  shops.  We  prefer  this 
mode  of  dressing  it  to  the  more  savory  one 
of  stewing  it  in  rich  gravy,  like  carp,  &C. 
which  overpowers  the  peculiar  flavor  of  die 
fish. 

STURGEON,  ROASTED.      Take  a 

large  piece  of  sturgeon,  or  a  whole  small 
one,  clean  and  skin  it  properly ;  lard  it  with 
eel  and  anchovies,  and  marinade  it  in  a 
white  wine  marinade.  Fasten  it  to  the 
spit,  and  roast  it,  basting  fieciuently  with 
the  marinade  sti'ained.  Let  the  fish  be  a 
nice  color,  and  serve  with  a  pepper  sauce. 

SUET  TO  KEEP  FOR  A  TWELVE- 
MONTH. Choose  the  firmest  part,  and 
pick  it  free  from  skin  and  veins.  Put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  and  set  it  at  some  distance 
fi-om  the  fire,  in  order  that  the  suet  may 
melt  without  frjing,  or  it  will  taste  disagree- 
able. When  it  is  melted,  pour  it  into  a  pan 
of  cold  water.  When  it  has  caked  quite 
hard,  wipe  it  very  dry,  fold  it  in  fine  paper, 
and  then  in  a  linen  bug,  and  keep  it  in  a 
dry,  but  not  in  a  hot  place.  When  you  wish 
to  use  it,  scrape  it  fine,  and  it  will  make  a 
nice  crust,  either  with  or  without  butter. 

SUET  MILK.  Cut  into  very  small 
shavings  one  ounce  of  fi-esh  beef  suet;  dis- 
solve it  slowly  over  the  fire  in  one  pint  of 
milk,  together  widi  a  bit  of  lemon-peel  and 
cinnamon;  sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar. 

SUET  DUMPLINGS.  This  batter 
should  be  made  the  same  as  for  suet  ptid- 
ding,  (second  receipt),  but  much  thicker,  let- 
your  cloth  be  wetted,  shake  it  all  over  with 
flour,  and  tie  up  in  several  parts  of  the  ck>th, 
as  much  as  it  will  hold,  two  or  three  spoon- 
fuls of  batter.  Or  you  may  make  the  batter 
as  usual,  and  put  it  in  tea-cups,  well  butter- 
ed ;  tie  them  in  cloths,  and  boil  an  hour. 

SUGAR,   TO   CLARIFY.     To  every 

three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  allow  the  beaten 
white  of  one  egg,  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
water ;  break  the  sugar  small,  put  it  into  a 
nicely-cleaned  brass  pan,  and  pour  the  water 
over  it ;  let  it  stand  sometime  before  it  be 
put  upon  the  fire ;  then  add  the  beaten  whites 
of  the  eggs ;  stir  it  till  the  sugar  be  entirely 


SWE 


218 


SWE 


(lifieolved,  and  when  it  boils  up,  pour  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cold  water;  let  it  boil 
up  a  second  time;  take  it  off  the  fire  and  let 
it  settle  for  fifteen  minutes;  carefully  take 
off  all  the  scum;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil 
it  till  sufficiently  thick,  or  if  required,  till 
candy  high;  in  order  to  ascertain  which, 
drop  a  little  from  a  spoon  into  a  small  jar 
of  cold  water,  and  if  it  become  quite  hard, 
it  is  then  sufficiently  done;  or  dip  the  ihevil 
into  the  sugar,  plunge  it  into  cold  water, 
draw  oflT  the  sugar  which  adheres  to  the 
stick,  and  if  it  be  hard  and  snaps,  the  fruit 
to  be  preserved  must  be  instantly  put  in  and 
boiled. 


SUGAR  ORNAMENTS. 
amel. 


See   Car- 


SUGAR  RUFFS.  A  pound  of  pounded 
and  sifted  loaf  sugar  beaten  well  with  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  and  flavored  with  oil 
of  cinnamon,  lemons,  or  orange-flower  wa- 
ter, and  baked  in  the  same  way  as  the 
meringues,  served  in  a  napkin,  or  used  to 
garnish  dishes  of  preserves. 

SUGAR,  TO  BOIL.  To  every  pound 
of  sugar  allow  half  a  pint  of  water;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  the  sugar  be  entirely  dissolv- 
ed; when  it  first  boils  up,  pour  in  a  little 
cold  water,  and  when  it  boils  a  second  time, 
take  it  off  the  fire ;  let  it  settle  ten  minutes, 
carefully  scum  it,  and  boil  it  for  half  an  hour 
or  a  little  longer,  and  then  put  in  the  fruit. 

SWEETBREADS,  Italian  Attk- 
LETS.  Blanch  some  nice  sweetbreads,  and 
stew  them  in  a  well-seasoned  gravy,  made 
of  meat  and  vegetables;  when  cold,  cut 
them  into  pieces  of  nearly  an  inch  square, 
put  them  into  a  satice  d'attelets,  and  let 
them  cool.  With  silver  skewers,  skewer 
the  sweetbreads,  and  a  bit  of  ready-dressed 
caiPs  udder  alternately;  make  them  all  as 
much  as  possible  of  an  equal  size,  and  of  a 
square  form.  Moisten  them  with  the  sauce, 
and  cover  them  with  grated  bread,  then 
dip  them  into  four  well  beaten  eggs,  strew 
over  them  some  more  grated  bread,  and 
level  it  with  a  knife;  fry  them  of  a  fine 
brown,  and  serve  with  an  Italian  sauce, 
white  or  brown. 

If  the  attelets  are  ready  before  they  are 
required  to  be  fried,  strew  grated  biead 
over  the  cover  of  a  stewpan,  and  lay  tliem 
upon  it. 

SWEETBREAD,  TO  BOIL.  Parboil 
k,  rub  it  with  butter,  and  broil  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  turn  it  frecjuently,  and  baste  it 
now  and  then,  by  putting  it  upon  a  plate 
kept  warm  by  the  fire  with  butter  in  it. 


SWEETBREADS  a  la  Dauphink. 

If  for  a  round  dish,  take  four  large  and  fino 
sweetbreads.  If  for  a  long  dish,  three  will 
>jnffice.  Pare  off  the  fat  and  sinews,  and 
blanch  them  in  warm  water,  parboil  them, 
and  when  cold,  lard  them.  Rub  a  stew- 
pan  with  fresh  butter,  and  put  into  it  a  few 
sliced  carrots  and  onions,  then  a  layer  of 
slices  of  fat  bacon,  place  the  sweetbreads 
upon  the  bacon,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over 
them,  and  stew  them  with  a  great  deal  of 
fire  on  the  top,  and*  a  very  slow  one  be- 
neath ;  when  they  are  nicely  browned,  cover 
them  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  cut 
round,  and  lessen  the  fire  upon  the  top. 
They  will  require  to  stew  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  then  drain  and  put  them  into  a 
pan  with  some  glaze,  and  the  bacon  under- 
neath. Leave  them  in  the  glaze  till  dinner 
time. 

SWEETBREADS  FULL  DRESSED. 

Parboil  them,  and  let  them  get  cold;  then 
cut  them  in  pieces,  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  thick ;  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
then  in  fine  bread  crumbs  (some  add  spice, 
lenjon-peel,  and  sweet  herl)s) ;  put  some 
clean  dripping  into  a  frying-pan:  when  it 
boils,  put  in  the  sweetbreads,  and  fiy  them 
a  fine  brown.  For  gainish,  crisp  parsley 
and  for  sauce,  nuishroom  ketchup  and  melted 
butter,  or  anchovy  sauce,  or  bacon  or  ham. 

SWEETBREADS,   SMALL   CASES 

OF  Scollops  of.  Blanch  and  parboil 
some  sweetbreads,  cut  them  into  small  scol- 
lops. Tlien  chop  separately,  and  finely,  half 
a  pint  of  mushrooms,  a  little  parsley,  and 
four  or  five  shallots,  add  a  little  fat  bacon 
rasped,  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter;  season 
the  scollops  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
mace,  stew  it  all  together  over  a  slow  fire; 
when  d(jne,  drain  ofl  the  fat,  place  the  scol- 
lops in  small  paper  cases,  which  have  been 
fried  in  olive  oil,  cover  them  with  plenty  of 
finely-chopped  herbs,  and  strew  over  them 
fi  ied  bread  crumbs;  lay  the  paper  cases  for 
a  moment  into  the  oven,  and  before  serving, 
pour  into  each  a  little  rich  gravy,  and  a  little 
lemon-juice. 

SWEET  HERBS.    See  Herbs. 

SWEETMEAT  FRITTERS.  Cut 
small  any  sort  of  candied  fiuit.  and  heat  it 
with  a  bit  of  fresh  butter,  some  good  milk, 
and  a  little  grated  lemon-peel ;  when  quite 
hot,  stir  in  enough  of  flour  to  make  it  into  a 
stiff  paste,  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  work  in 
eight,  or  ten  eggs,  two  at  a  time;  when 
cold,  form  the  fritters,  and  fry,  and  serve 
them  with  pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed  over . 
them. 


SYL 


219 


TAR 


SYLLABUBS.  Take  the  juice  of  a 
large  lemon,  the  peel  (pared  very  thin),  a 
glass  of  brandy,  two  of  white  wine,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar ;  put 
these  ingredients  into  a  pan,  and  leave  them; 
the  next  day,  add  a  pint  of  thick  cream,  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs;  whip  the  wliole 
well,  and  pour  the  syllabub  into  glasses. 
They  are  the  better  for  keeping  a  day  or 
two.  If  the  syllabubs  are  not  wanted  quite 
so  good  as  the  above,  raisin  or  mountain 
wine  will  do  as  well  as  brandy. 

SYLLABUB,  Somersetshire.  Put 
a  pint  of  Port,  and  a  pint  of  Siierry,  or 
any  other  white  wine,  into  a  large  bowl, 
sweeten  it  according  to  taste;  milk  the  bowl 
full;  in  about  twenty  minutes'  time,  cover 
it  tolerably  high  with  clouted  cream;  grate 
nutmeg  over  it ;  add  pounded  cinnamon,  and 
nonpareils. 

SYLLABUB,  Staffordshire.  Put 
a  pint  of  cider,  a  glass  of  brandy,  sugar,  and 
nutmeg,  into  a  bowl,  and  milk  into  it;  or 
pour  warm  milk  from  a  large  tea-pot  some 
height  into  it. 

SYLLABUB.  (1)  One  poun(/ of  ratafia 
cakes  pounded  and  steeped  in  two  bottles 
of  Port  wine,  one  of  claret,  and  one  of 
brandy,  tlie  grated  peel  and  juice  of  two 
lemons,  one  large  nutmeg  grated,  and  two 
ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounde<l  with  a  little  rose-water,  and  pound- 
ed sugar  sufficient  to  make  it  sweet — Put 
all  these  ingredients,  well  mixed,  into  a 
large  China  bowl,  or  bowls  of  an  equal  size, 
and  let  the  milk  of  a  good  cow  be  milked 
upon  them ;  add  a  little  rich  cream  and  sift- 
ed loaf  sugar,  and  fcover  it  to  keep  it  warm. 
It  may  be  served  out  into  glasses  witli  a  silver 
ladle. 

SYLLABUB.  (2)  A  large  glass  of  Madei- 
ra, one  of  rich  sweet  wine,  and  half  a  one  of 
ratafia,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
tlie  grated  peel  of  a  large  lemon,  the  juice 
of  two,  and  a  little  pounded  cinnamon;  stir 
it  all  together  till  the  sugar  \)e  dissolved,  and 
add  a  quart  of  rich  cream;  whisk  it  well; 
lay  some  macaroons  into  the  bottom  of  a 
dish,  and  pile  the  frothed  syllabub  high  upon 
it.  It  may  be  kept  nine  or  ten  days,  and  is 
better  the  third  and  fourth  than  when  first 
made. 

SYLLABUB,  SOLID.  A  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  mountain,  the  same  of  white  wine, 
the  grated  peel  of  two,  and  juice  of  one 
lemon ;  sweeten,  and  add  it  to  a  quart  of 
rich  cream ;  whisk  it  for  an  hour,  and  put  it 
into  glasses.  It  will  keep  a  week  in  cold 
weather, 


SYLLABUB,  COMMON.  Half  a  pint 
of  currant,  the  same  of  Port  or  white  wine, 
half  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  the  peel  of  a 
lemon;  sweeten  well  with  pounded  loafer 
good  brown  sugar,  and  mix  it  together  in  a 
China  bowl,  and  when  the  surar  dissolves, 
milk  upon  it  tliree  or  four  pmts  of  milk. 
Serve  it  when  cold. 

SYLLABUB,  WHIPT.  (1)  Mix  to- 
gether half  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little  lemon- 
juice,  and  grated  peel,  with  sugar  enough  to 
sweeten  the  whole;  stir  it  into  a  pint  of 
thick  cream,  and  add  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  six  eggs;  whisk  it  for  an  hour,  and  put 
the  froth,  as  it  rises,  upon  a  sieve  to  drain; 
put  a  little  Port  and  sweet  wine  into  glasses, 
and  fill  them  up  with  the  froth. 

SYLLABUB,  WHIPT.  (2)  Mix  with 
a  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine, 
a  glass  of  brandy,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  grat- 
ed nutmeg,  six  ounces  of  sifted  loaf  sugar: 
nearly  fill  the  custard-glasses  with  the  mix- 
ture, and  lay  on  with  a  spoon  some  of  the 
whip. 


T. 


TAMIS,  a  coarse  kind  of  cloth  for  straii^ 

ing  soups  and  gravies. 

TARTE,  ROYAL  BERLIN.  Take 
half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  havin^r 
blanched,  pound  tliem  with  six  eggs,  in  a 
marble  mortar  to  a  very  fine  paste,  add  to  it 
a  pound  of  broken  sugar,  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter,  and  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons, 
beat  it  well  as  each  ingredient  is  put  in; 
lay  about  sixteen  or  eighteen  ounces  of  sift- 
ed flour  on  the  slab,  place  the  almond  paste 
on  it,  and  knead  them  well  together.  Di- 
vide this  into  several  pieces,  which  roll  to 
the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  from 
these  cut  from  twelve  to  sixteen  circular 
layers,  the  largest  about  seven  inches  in 
diameter,  the  rest,  each  somewhat  smaller 
than  the  other ;  when  all  are  cut,  place  them 
on  white  paper  on  tins,  and  bake  tliem  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  a  clear  brown,  then  take 
them  out,  and  let  them  cool.  As  soon  as 
cold,  place  the  largest  piece  on  a  China 
dish,  of  a  sufficient  size  to  let  it  lay  flat,  and 
spread  over  it  equally  some  preserved  fruit; 
cover  this  with  the  second  sized  layer,  on 
which  also  spread  presei'ved  fruit;  then  a 
third  layer,  and  so  on  until  all  the  paste  is 
used,  taking  care  to  put  each  layer  in  its 
proper  order,  so  that  the  whole  may  form  a 
cone,  and  that  between  every  one  must  be 
a  different  kind  of  preserve;  when  done, 
glaze,  and  ornament  it  as  follows:  cut 


TARTS 


220 


TARTS 


candied  lemon,  and  orange-peel  into  tlie 
form  of  leaves,  which  arrange  in  garlands 
round  the  tart,  putting  here  and  there  a 
small  presened  fruit;  when  done,  replace  it 
in  the  oven  for  two  or  three  minutes  to  dry, 
and  then  serve. 

TARTLETS.  (1)  Butter  some  small 
tartlet  pans;  line  them  with  a  nice  thin 
puff  paste,  jnark  it  neatly  round  the  edges, 
bake  them ;  when  they  are  cold,  fill  them 
with  custard,  pieseive,  or  any  sweetmeat 
you  think  proper,  and  if  you  choose,  pour 
euatard  over. 

TARTLETS.  (2)  Roll  out  the  paste 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  lay 
upon  it  the  lop  part  of  the  patty-pan ;  cut  it 
round  with  the  paste  cutter.  Rub  the  patty- 
pans with  a  little  butter,  and  line  them  with 
the  paste,  and  place  in  the  middle  a  little  bit  of 
bread,  which  take  out  when  they  are  baked. 
They  may  l)e  filled  with  any  preserved  fruit, 
and  a  staroi-  leaf  of  paste  placed  on  the  top. 
To  make  ornaments  of  paste,  roll  it  quite 
thin,  and  as  even  as  possible;  cut  it  with 
tin  stars,  leaves,  or  any  odier  form,  and 
bake  them  a  light  brown  color,  upon  flat 
tins  dusted  with  flour. 

TART,  APPLE,  CREAMED.  Use 
green  codlings,  in  preference  to  any  other 
apple,  and  proceed  as  in  the  last  receipt. 
When  the  pie  is  done,  cut  out  the  whole  of 
the  centre,  leaving  the  edges;  when  cold, 
pour  on  the  apple  some  rich  lx)iled  custard, 
and  place  round  it  some  small  leaves  of  puff 
of  a  light  color. 


TART,  CHERRY.  The  cherries  may 
be  stoned,  and  a  few  red  currants  added; 
sweeten  with  loaf  or  brown  sugar,  and  put 
into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  small  tea-cup; 
cover  it  with  paste. 

TART,  CRANBERRY.  Take  cran- 
berries, pick  and  wash  them  in  several  wa- 
ters, put  them  into  a  dish,  with  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  moist 
or  pounded  loaf  sugar,  to  a  quart  of  cran- 
berries. Cover  it  with  puff  or  tart  paste 
and  bake  it  three-quarlei-s  of  an  hour ;  if 
tart  paste  is  need,  dniw  it  from  the  oven 
five  minutes  before  it  is  done,  and  ice  it,  re- 
turn it  to  the  oven,  and  send  it  to  table 
cold. 

TART,  CURRANT.  To  a  quart  of 
red  currants  add  one  pint  of  red  raspber- 
ries, strawberries,  or  cherries ;  sweeten  tliem 
well  with  brown  sugar;  l)efore  putting  in 
the  finiit,  line  the  side  of  the  dish  with  tart 
paste,  place  in  it  a  small  tea-cup,  put  in  the 
fruit,  and  cover  it  with  paste. 


Four  ounces  of  brown  sugar  are  general^ 
ly  allowed  to  a  quart  of  fruit. 

TART    OF    PRESERVED    FRUIT. 

Cover  a  flat  dish,  or  tourte  pan,  with  tart 
paste,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  roll 
out  puff  paste,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  it 
out  in  strips  an  inch  wide;  wet  the  tart 
paste,  and  lay  it  neatly  round  the  pan  by 
way  of  a  rim  ;  fill  the  centre  with  jam  or 
marmalade  of  any  kind,  ornament  it  with 
small  leaves  of  puff  paste,  bake  it  half  an 
hour,  and  send  it  to  table  cold. 

'I'he  alwA-e  may  be  filled  befoi-e  tiie  puff 
paste  is  laid  on,  neatly  strung  with  paste, 
and  the  rim  put  over  after. 

The  most  general  way  of  sending  tourtes 
to  table,  is  with  a  crofjuante  of  paste,  or  a 
caramel  of  spun  sugar  put  over  after  it  is 
baked. 

TARTS,  PRESERVED  FRUIT.   Rub 

over  with  a  little  butter  an  oval  dish,  or  tin 
shape,  line  it  with  paste,  and  fill  it  with  any 
sort  of  preserved  fruit.  Roll  out  a  bit  of 
paste  thin,  and,  with  a  paste  cutter,  cut  it 
into  narrow  stripe;  brush  with  water  the 
rim  of  the  shape,  and  lay  the  bars  of  paste 
across  and  across,  and  then  put  round  a 
border  of  paste,  and  mark  it  with  the  paste 
cutter. 

TARTS,  RIPE  FRUIT.  Gooseberries, 
damsons,  morello  cherries,  currants  mixed 
with  raspberries,  plums,  green  gages,  white 
plums,  &c.  should  be  quite  fresh  picked,  and 
washed:  lay  them  in  the  dish  with  the  cenfre 
highest,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
moist  or  loaf  sugar  pounded  to  a  quart  of 
fruil  (but  if  quite  ripe  they  will  not  require 
so  much) ;  add  a  little  water ;  rub  the  edges 
of  the  dish  with  yolk  of  egg;  cover  it  with 
tart  paste,  about  half  an  inch  thick;  press 
your  thumb  round  the  rim,  and  close  it  well; 
pare  it  round  witli  a  knife;  make  a  hole  in 
the  sides  below  the  rim ;  bake  it  in  a  mode- 
rale-heated  oven ;  and  ten  minutes  before  it 
is  done,  take  it  out  and  ice  it,  and  return  it 
to  tije  oven  to  dry. 

TART,  RHUBARB.  Strip  off  the  peel, 
and  if  the  rhubarb  is  large,  cut  it  into  two 
or  three  strips,  and  tlien  into  bits  about  an 
inch  long;  sweeten  well  with  brown  sugar, 
and  cover  the  dish  with  paste. 

TART  PASTE,  FOR  FAMILY  PIES. 

Rub  in  widi  the  hand  half  a  pound  of  butter 
into  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  mix  it 
with  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  knead  it  well. 

TART  PASTE,  Swket,  or  Short 
AND  Crisped.  To  one  pound  and  a  quar- 
ter of  fine  flour  add  ten  ounces  ot'  fi-esh  butter. 


TEW 


221 


the  yolks  of  twoegfgs  beaten,  and  three  oun- 
ces of  sifted  loaf  sugar ;  mix  up  together  with 
half  a  pint  of  new  railk,  and  knead  it  well. 
N.  B. — This  crust  is  fi-equently  iced. 

TEA  CREAM.  Infuse  an  ounce  of  the 
best  green  tea  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk, 
simmer  it  five  minutes,  then  strain  it  through 
a  tammy,  pressing  the  leaves  well.  Boil  a 
pint  of  rich  cream,  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  well  beaten,  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  clarified  sugar;  pour  this  whilst  hot  to  the 
milk,  stir  them  together  well;  put  in  as  much 
clarified  isinglass  as  will  set  it,  and  pour  the 
cream  into  the  mould,  or  glasses;  place  them 
on  ice;  when  perfectly  cold,  turn  it  out  of 
the  mould,  or  serve  in  the  glasses. 

TEAL,  ROASTED.  Shred  a  little 
lemon-peel,  and  mix  it  with  a  bit  of  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  and  lemon-juice;  stuff  your 
birds  with  tiiis,  cover  them  first  with  slices 
of  lemon,  then  bacoji,  and  lastly,  buttered 
paper  sprinkled  with  salt;  tie  them  up  se- 
curely, fasten  them  to  the  spit,  and  roast 
them.  When  done,  let  the  butter  lun  out, 
remove  the  wrappers,  and  dish  them.  Serve 
them  with  a  sauce  made  as  follovvsj:  put  into 
a  saucepan  three  ladlefuls  of  espa°;nole,  a 
spoonful  of  consomme,  a  bit  of  glaze,  the 
rind  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  pep- 
per; give  them  a  boil  up  together,  and  strain 
it  over  the  teal. 

TENCH.  They  are  a  fine-flavored  fresh 
water  fish ;  when  good,  the  eyes  are  bright, 
the  body  stiff,  and  the  outside  free  from  slime ; 
tench  should  be  dressed  as  soon  as  caught. 

TENCH,  FRIED.  Take  a  couple  of 
large  tench,  scale  and  cleanse  them  as  for 
broiling.  Cut  off  the  fins,  split  them  down 
the  back,  take  out  the  boties;  sprinkle  them 
with  flour  and  salt;  squeeze  a  little  lemon- 
juice  over,  and  fry  diem  in  butter,  and  serve 
them  dry. 

TENCH,  ROASTED.  Take  off  scales, 
heads,  and  fins,  of  the  tench,  cleanse  and  dry 
them  well,  then  put  into  each  a  little  butter, 
mixed  with  sweet  herbs;  lay  them  for  about 
five  minutes  in  melted  butter,  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  sweet  herbs;  wrap  each  fish  in  pa- 
per, fasten  them  to  a  spit,  and  roast  them. 

TEWAHDIDDLE.  A  pint  of  table 
beer  (or  ale,  if  you  intend  it  for  a  supplement 
to  your  "  night  cap"),  a  tal)le-spoonful  of 
brandy,  and  a  tea-spoonfui  of  brown  sugar, 
or  clarified  sirup;  a  little  grated  nutmeg  or 
ginger  may  be  added,  and  a  roll  of  very  thin- 
cut  lemon-peel. 

Obs. — Bef'^re  our  readers  make  any  re- 
marks on  this  composition,  we  beg  of  them 
19* 


to  ta.«!te  it:  ff  Qie  fiwtwia^are  goocCand  i   * 
their  palate  vibrates  in  unison  with  our  own, 
they  will  find  it  one  of  the  pleasantest  bever-bw» 
ages  they  ever  put  to  tlieir  lips;  and,  as  Lord'    " 
Ruthven  says,  "  this  is  a  right  gossip's  cup' 
that  far  exceeds  all  the  ale  that  ever  Mother 
Bunch  made  in  her  life-time." 

THICKENING.  Clarified  butter  is  best 
for  this  purpose;  but  if  you  have  none  ready, 
put  some  fresh  butter  into  a  stewpan  over  a 
slow,  clear  fire;  when  it  is  melted,  add  fine 
flour  sufficient  to  make  it  the  thickness  of 
paste;  stir  it  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  till  it  is 
quite  smooth,  and  the  color  of  a  guinea:  this 
must  be  done  very  gradually  and  patiently; 
if  you  put  it  over  too  fierce  a  fire  to  hurry  it, 
it  will  become  bitter  and  empyreumatie:  pour 
it  into  an  earthen  pan,  and  keep  it  for  uee. 
It  will  keep  good  a  fortnight  in  summer,  ami 
longer  in  winter. 

A  large  spoonful  will  generally  be  enough 
to  thicken  a  (juart  of  gravy. 

Obs. — This,  in  the  French  kitchen,  is 
called  roux.  Be  particularly  attentive  in 
making  it;  if  it  gets  any  burnt  smell  or 
taste,  it  will  spoil  everything  it  is  put  into. 
When  cold,  it  should  be  thick  enough  to  cut 
out  with  a  knife,  like  a  solid  paste. 

It  is  a  very  essential  article  in  the  kitchen, 
and  is  the  basis  of  consistency  in  most  made- 
dishes,  soups,  sauces,  and  ragouts;  if  the 
gravies,  &c.  are  too  thin,  add  this  thicken- 
ing, more  or  less,  according  to  the  consistence 
you  would  wish  them  to  have. 

Mem. — In  making  thickening,  the  less 
butter,  and  the  more  flour  you  use,  the  bet- 
ter; they  must  be  thoroughly  woiked  to- 
gether, and  the  broth,  or  soup,  &"c.  you  pat 
tiiem  to,  added  by  degrees:  take  especial 
care  to  incorporate  them  well  together,  or 
your  sauces,  &c.  will  taste  floury,  and  have 
a  disgusting,  greasy  appeaiance:  therefore, 
after  you  have  tliickened  your  sauce,  add  to 
it  some  broth,  or  warm  water,  in  the  pro- 
|)ortion  of  two  t;ible-spoonfuls  to  a  pint,  and 
set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  to  raise  any  fat, 
&c.  that  is  not  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  gravy,  which  you  must  carefully  remove 
as  it  comes  to  the  top.  This  is  called 
cleansing,  or  finishing  the  sauce. 

Half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  table-spooq- 
ful  of  flour,  are  about  the  proportion  for  a 
pint  of  sauce  to  make  it  as  thick  as  cream. 

N.  B. — The  fat  skimmings  off  the  top 
of  the  broth-pot  are  sometimes  substituted 
for  butler;  some  cooks  merely  tliicken  their 
soups  and  sauces  with  flour. 

TIMBALE.  Put  a  pound  of  floor  on 
the  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it, 
into  which  pour  a  little  water,  three  or  four 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  but* 


TOA 


222 


TOM 


ter,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  a  pinch  of 
gait;  knead  these  ingredients  thoroughly  into 
the  flour,  until  it  becomes  a  tolerably  firm 
paste;  roll  it  out  to  nearly  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  line  one  large,  or  several  small 
plain  round  moulds,  with  this  paste;  let  the 
moulds  be  well  buttered,  and  the  paste  come 
about  half  an  inch  al*)ve  the  top  of  the  mould; 
fill  your  timbale  with  any  farce,  or  ragout, 
you  think  proper,  covei*  it  with  a  layer  of 
paste,  pressing  the  edges  together;  bake  it, 
and  when  done,  turn  <he  timbale  on  a  dish, 
make  a  hole,  pour  in  souie  rich  sauce  or 
gravy,  and  serve. 

TINCTURE  OF  ALLSPICE.  Of 
allspice  bruised,  three  ounces,  apothecaries' 
weight;  brandy,  a  quart.  Let  it  steep  a 
fortnight,  occasionally  shaking  it  up;  then 
pour  ofiT  the  clear  liquor:  it  is  a  most  grateful 
addition  in  all  cases  where  allspice  is  used, 
for  making  a  bishop,  or  to  mulled  wine  ex- 
tempore, or  in  gravies,  &c.  or  to  flavor  and 
preserve  potted  meats. 

TIPSY  CAKE.  Pour  over  a  sponge 
cake,  made  in  the  form,  of  a  porcupine,  as 
much  white  wine  as  it  will  absorb,  and  stick 
it  all  over  with  blanched  sweet  almonds,  cut 
like  straws;  or  pour  wine  in  the  same  man- 
ner over  a  thick  slice  of  sponge  cake,  cover 
the  top  of  it  with  preserved  strawbeiries  or 
raspberries,  and  stick  cut  almonds  all  round  it. 

TOAST  AND  CHEESE.     See  Cheese. 

TOAST,  WITH  BUTTER.  Spread 
butter  over  some  slices  of  fried  bread;  lay 
on  them  sweet  herbs,  tossed  up  in  melted 
butter,  and  serve. 

TOASTS,  GENOA.  Lard  a  French 
roll  with  partly  anchovies,  and  partly  ham; 
cut  tlie  roll  into  slices,  lay  on  each  a  thin 
slice  of  bacon,  dip  diem  into  batter,  and  fry 
them;  drain,  and  sei^ve  with  ravigote. 

TOASTS,  GRENADA.  Cut  some  fat 
and  lean  bacon  into  dice,  give  them  a  few 
turns  over  the  fire  with  parsley,  scallions, 
shallots,  pepper,  sail,  and  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs;  stir  it  fre(]uently,  till  it  forms  a  kind 
of  forcemeat,  spread  it  over  slices  of  bread, 
cut  of  an  equal  thickness,  and  fry  them. 

TOASTS,  ITALIAN.  Cut  sr.me  slices 
of  bread,  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness, 
fry  them  in  sweet  oil,  let  it  be  dry,  and 
crisp,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  spread  over 
tiiem  any  light  good  farce  you  may  think 
proper;  pour  over  them  an  appropriate 
sauce  and  serve  them. 

TOAST    AND    WATER.      Pare  the 


crust  off  a  thin  slice  of  stale  bread,  toast 
it  brown  upon  both  sides,  doing  it  equally 
and  slowly,  that  it  may  harden  without  being 
burnt;  put  it  into  a  jug,  and  pour  upon  it 
boiling  water;  cover  the  jug  with  a  saucer, 
and  set  it  in  a  cool  place. 

TOASTS,  SPANISH.  Roll  out  some 
almond  paste,  nearly  an  inch  thick,  cut  it 
into  pieces,  about  two  inches  square,  press 
them  down  widi  a  s(]uar«  piece  of  wood,  a 
little  smaller  than  the  paste,  which  will  leave 
the  edges  higher  than  the  rest;  bake  the  n, 
and  when  cold,  pour  in  any  prepared  cream 
you  please,  as  high  as  the  borders;  ice,  and 
color  them  with  a  salamander. 

TOMATA  SAUCE.  Bake  six  tomatas 
in  an  oven  till  (juite  soft;  with  a  tea-spoon 
take  out  the  pulp,  add  salt,  cayenne,  and 
vinegar,  till  of  the  consistence  of  thick  cream. 

TOMATA  SOUP.  Wash,  scrape,  and 
cut  small  the  red  part  of  three  large  carrots, 
three  heads  of  celei  y,  four  large  onions,  and 
two  large  turnips,  put  them  into  a  saucepan, 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  half  a 
pound  of  lean  new  ham ;  let  them  stew  very 
gently  for  an  hour,  then  add  three  (]uarts  of 
brown  gravy  soup,  and  some  whole  black 
pepper,  with  eight  or  ten  ripe  tomatas  ;  let 
it  boil  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  pulp  it  through 
a  sieve  ;  serve  it  witli  fried  bread  cut  in  dice. 

TOMATA   SAUCE,  FRENCH.      Cut 

ten  or  a  dozen  tomatas  into  quarters,  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan,  with  four  on- 
ions sliced,  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  one  clove, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter;  set  tlie 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  stirring  occasionally  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour;  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  horse-hair  sieve,  and  serve  with 
the  directed  articles. 

TOMATA  SAUCE,  ITALIAN.    Take 

five  or  six  onions,  slice,  and  put  them  into 
a  saucepan,  with  a  little  thyme,  bay-leaf, 
twelve  or  fifteen  tomatas,  a  bit  of  butter, 
salt,  half  a  dozen  allspice,  a  little  India  saf- 
fron, and  a  glass  of  stock;  set  them  on  tlie 
fire,  taking  care  to  stir  it  freqnenly,  as  it  is 
apt  to  stick  ;  when  you  perceive  ilie  fauce  is 
tolerably  thick,  strain  it  like  a  puree. 

TO^'ATA  KETCHUP.  (1)  Take  t.  m;- 
tas  when  fully  ripe,  bake  them  in  a  jar  till 
tender  strain  tliem,  and  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  To  every  pound  of  juice,  add  a  pint 
of  Chili  vinegar,  an  ounce  of  shallots,  half  anr 
ounce  of  garlic,  both  sliced,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
white  pepper,  finely  powdered;  boil  the 
whole  till  eveVy  ingredient  is  soft,  rub  it 
again  through  the  sieve.     To  every  pound 


TOM 


223 


TON 


add  the  juice  of  three  lemons ;  bnil  it  again 
to  the  consistence  of  cream;  when  cold,  bot- 
tle it,  put  a  small  quantity  of  sweet  oil  on 
each,  tie  bladders  over,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry 
place. 

TOMATA  KETCHUP.  (2)    Gather  a 

peck  of  tomatas,  pick  out  the  stems,  and 
wash  them ;  put  tliera  on  the  fire  witliout 
water ;  sprinkle  on  a  few  spoonfuls  of  salt ; 
let  them  boil  steadily  an  hour,  stirring  them 
frequently  ;  strain  them  through  a  colander 
and  then  through  a  sieve  ;  put  the  liquid  on 
the  fire  with  half  a  pint  of  chopped  onions, 
eighth  of  an  ounce  of  mace  broke  into  small 
pieces,  and  if  not  sufficiently  salt,  add  a  little 
more;  one  table-spoonful  of  whole  black 
|>epper;  boil  all  together  until  just  enough 
to  fill  two  bottles;  cork  it  tight. 

[The  seasoning  may  be  varied  to  suit  the 
taste.  Allspice  instead  of  mace — common 
red  pepper  instead  of  black  pepjxjr,  and  less 
cJiopped  onion.] 

TOMATO  KETCHUP.  (3)  One  gal- 
lon skinned  tomatas,  four  table-spoons  of 
salt,  four  do.  black  pepper,  two  do.  allspice, 
eight  pods  red  pepper,  eight  table-spoons  of 
mustard  seed.  These  articles  to  be  bruised 
fine  and  simmered  slowly  in  a  pint  of  vineg;ir 
tln-ee  hours  ;  then  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve.  To  be  stewed  down  to  half  a  gallon 
of  ketchup. 

TOMATAS,  METHOD  OF  PRE- 
SERVING. (1)  A  sufficient  quantity  of  salt 
is  dissolved  in  spring  or  river  water  to  make 
it  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg;  select  per- 
fectly ripe  tomatas,  and  place  them  well  and 
without  pressing  them,  in  a  stone  or  glazened 
earthen  pot,  with  a  deep  plate  in  such  a 
manner  that  it  presses  upon  the  fiuit,  and  by 
tliis  simple  process  tomatas  may  l)e  preserxed 
more  than  a  year  without  attention.  Before 
cooking  them  they  should  be  soaked  in  fresh 
water  for  several  hours. 

TOMATAS,  METHOD  OF  PRE- 
SERVING. (2)  Gather  them  carefully 
without  bruising;  put  them  in  a  stone  jar, 
and  pour  in  strong  brine,  to  the  top — putting 
on  a  light  weight  to  keep  them  gently  pressed 
down  below  the  surface  of  the  brine.  Soak 
them  in  fresh  water  and  cook  them  in  the 
usual  way,  seasoning  to  suit  tlie  taste,  as 
when  fresh  from  the  vine. 

TOMATA  MARMALADE.  Gather 
full-grown  tomatas  while  quite  green;  take 
out  the  stems  and  stew  them  till  soft;  rub 
them  through  a  sieve ;  put  the  pulp  on  the 
fire,  seasoned  highly  with  pepper,  salt  and 
powdered  cloves;  add  some  garlic,  and  stew 
all  together  till  thick.     It  keeps  well,  and  is 


excellent  for  seasoning  gravies.  Besides  th« 
numerous  modes  of  preparing  this  delicioHS 
vegetable  for  the  table,  it  may  be  stewed, 
after  being  peeled,  with  sugar,  like  cranber- 
ries and  goosebeiTies,  producing  a  tart  equal 
to  either  of  those  fruits.  Tomatas  make 
good  pickles,  pickled  green;  to  peel  them, 
pour  boiling  water  on  them,  when  tlie  skin 
will  come  off  easily. 

TONGUE.  (1)  A  tongue  which  has 
not  teen  dried  will  require  very  little  soak- 
ing, but  if  dried,  it  should  be  soaked  in 
water  for  three  or  four  hours;  then  put  it 
into  cold  water,  and  let  it  boil  gently  till 
tender. 

TONGUE.  (2)  A  tongue  is  so  hard, 
whether  prepared  by  drying  or  pickling,  that 
it  requires  much  more  cooking  than  a  ham; 
nothing  of  its  weight  takes  so  long  to  dress 
it  properly. 

A  tongue  that  has  Ijeen  salted  and  dried 
should  be  put  to  soak  (if  it  is  old  and  verj' 
hard,  24  hours  befoie  it  is  wanted)  in  plen- 
ty of  water^  a  green  one  fresh  from  the  pic- 
kle requires  soaking  only  a  few  hours:  put 
your  tongue  into  plenty  of  cold  water ;  let 
it  be  an  hour  gradually  warming;  and  give 
it  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  hours'  very 
slow  simmering,  according  to  the  size,  &c. 

Obs. — When  you  choose  a  tongue,  en- 
deavor to  learn  how  long  it  has  been  dried 
or  pickled,  pick  out  the  plumpest,  and  that 
which  has  the  smoothest  skin,  which  de- 
notes its  being  young  and  tender. 

The  roots,  &c.  make  an  excellent  relish 
potted,  or  peas  soup. 

TONGUE,  TO  STEW.  Wash  it  very 
clean,  and  rub  it  well  with  common  salt  and 
a  little  saltpetre;  let  it  lie  two  or  three  days, 
and  then  boil  it  till  the  skin  will  pull  off. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  part  of  the  li- 
quor it  has  been  boiled  in,  and  a  pint  of 
good  stock.  Season  with  black  and  Ja- 
maica pepper,  and  two  or  three  pounded 
cloves;  add  a  glass  of  white  wine  and  a 
lable-spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  and 
one  of  lemon  pickle;  thicken  the  sauce  with 
butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  pour  it  over  the 
tongue. 

TONGUE,  PICKLED,  GLAZED. 

Boil  a  large  tongue  till  it  be  tender,  skin 
and  glaze  it,  and  seive  it  with  mashed  tur- 
nips on  one  side,  and  mashed  carrots,  or 
carrots  and  spinach  on  the  other. 

TONGUE,  POTTED.     See  Ham. 

TONGUES,  TO  SALT.  Salt  two 
tongues,  and  tuin  them  every  day  for  four  or 
five  days;   then  rub  them  with  two  ounces 


TR  I 


224 


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of  common  salt,  one  of  brown  sugar,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  saltpetre;  turn  tliem  daily,  and 
in  a  fortnight  they  may  be  used. 

The  best  sort  of  vessel  for  salting  them 
in  is  an  earthen-ware  pan,  as  wide  at  top 
as  bottom,  so  that  the  tongues  may  lie  in  it 
long-ways. 

TRIFLE.  (1)  Add  to  a  pint  of  rich 
cream  a  tea-cupful  of  white  wine,  sweeten  it 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  whisk  it  well,  and 
as  the  froth  rises  lay  it  upon  a  sieve  placed 
over  a  deep  dish;  as  it  drains,  pour  the 
cream  into  the  pan  in  which  it  is  whisked 
till  all  is  done  ;  dip  some  sponge  biscuit,  rata- 
fia cakes,  or  Savoy  biscuit,  into  sweet  wine 
and  a  little  bi-andy;  pour  ov^r  them  a  rich 
boiled  custard,  and  when  quite  cold,  lay  on 
the  whipt  cream,  piled  as  high  as  possible. 
Colored  comfits  may  be  strewed  over  the 
top. 

TRIFLE.  (2)  Mix  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  white  wine,  and  one  of  sugar,  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  thick  cream;  whisk  it, 
and  take  off  as  much  froth  as  will  heap  upon 
the  dish,  into  which  lay  some  pieces  of 
sponge  cake,  or  some  sponge  biscuit,  soaked 
with  sweet  wine,  and  coveied  with  preserv- 
ed strawberries,  or  any  other  fruit;  pile  the 
froth  upon  this,  and  pour  the  remainder  of 
the  cream  into  the  bottom  of  tlie  dish ;  gar- 
nish with  tlowers. 

TRIFLE.  (3)  Cover  the  bottom  of 
the  dish  with  Naples  biscuits,  and  maca- 
roons, broke  in  halves,  wet  with  brandy  and 
white  wine,  poured  over  them;  cover  them 
with  patches  of  rasplierry  jam;  fill  the  dish 
with  a  good  custard,  then  vviiip  up  a  sylla- 
bub, drain  the  froth  on  a  sieve ;  put  it  on 
the  custard,  and  strew  comfits  over  all. 

TRIPE.  Take  care  to  have  fresh  trii^e; 
cleanse  it  well  from  the  fat,  and  cut  it  into 
pieces  about  two  inches  broad  and  four  long ; 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  cover  it  with 
milk  and  water,  and  let  it  boil  gently  till  it 
is  lender. 

If  the  tripe  has  been  pi'epared  as  it  usual- 
ly is  at  the  tripe  shops,  it  will  l)e  enough  in 
about  an  hour,  (this  depends  upon  how  long 
it  has  been  previously  boiled  at  the  tripe 
shop) ;  if  entirely  undressed,  it  will  require 
two  or  three  hours,  according  to  the  age 
and  quality  of  it. 

Make  some  onion  sauce  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  you  do  for  rabbits,  or  boil  (slowly  by 
themselves)  some  Spanish  or  the  whitest 
common  onions  you  can  get ;  peel  them  be- 
fore you  boil  them ;  when  they  are  tender, 
which  a  middling-sized  onion  will  be  in 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  drain  them 
in  a  hair  sieve,  take  off  the  top  skins  till 


they  look  nice  and  white,  and  put  them 
with  the  tripe  into  a  tureen  or  soup-dish, 
and  take  off  the  fet  if  any  floats  on  the 
surface. 

Obs. — Rashers  of  bacon,  or  fried  sau- 
sages are  a  very  good  accompaniment  to 
boiled  tripe,  cow-heels  or  calf's  feet,  see  " 
Kelly's  sauce  or  parsley  and  butter,  or  ca- 
per sauce,  with  a  little  vinegar  and  mua> 
tard  added  to  them,  or  salad  mixtm-e. 

Tripe  holds  the  same  rank  among  solids, 
that  water  gruel  does  among  soups,  and  the 
former  is  desirable  at  dinner,  when  the  lat- 
ter is  welcome  at  supper. 

TRIPE,  TO  FRY.  Cut  it  into  bita 
three  or  four  inches  s(|uare ;  make  a  batter 
thicker  than  for  pancakes,  of  three  egga 
beaten  up  with  flour  and  milk,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg;  dip  in  the  tripe,  and 
fry  it  in  butter,  or  fresh  dripping,  of  a  light 
brown  color.  Serve  it  garnished  with  pars- 
ley. Sauce; — melted  butter  with  lemon 
pickle  in  it. 

TRIPE  PIE.  Lay  into  the  bottom  of 
a  dish  some  thinly-sliced  cold  or  Kaw  ham, 
then  put  in  a  layer  of  tripe  with  the  jelly 
adhering  to  it,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  add  a  bit  of  butter;  fill  the  dish  in  this 
manner,  and  put  in  a  few  table-spoonfuls 
of  brown  stock;  cover  the  dish  with  puff 
paste.  A  beefsteak  may  be  substituted  for 
the  ham,  laid  into  the  bottom,  and  the  dish 
filled  up  with  tripe. 

TRIPE,  TO  BOIL.  Clean  it  extreme- 
ly  well,  and  take  off  the  fat;  let  it  lie  a 
night  in  salt-and-water,  again  wash  it  well, 
and  let  it  lie  in  milk-and-water  for  the  same 
length  of  time;  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces, 
roll  and  tie  them  with  thread ;  put  them, 
with  a  clean-washed  marrow-bone,  into  a 
linen  bag;  tie  it  closely,  and  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  that  has  a  cover  to  fit  ([uite  close- 
ly, fill  it  up  with  water,  and  let  it  Iwil 
gently  for  six  hours.  Take  the  tripe  out 
of  the  bag,  put  it  into  a  jar,  and  pour  over 
it  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled.  When 
to  be  dressed,  boil  some  whole  small  onions 
in  a  part  of  the  liquor,  add  a  little  salt,  then 
put  in  the  tripe  and  heat  it  thoroughly. 

Or  it  m.'iy  l)e  fried  in  butter  fricasseed,  or 
stowed  in  a  brown  sauce. 

Instead  of  being  boiled  in  a  bag,  the  tripe 
may  be  put,  with  some  salt  and  whole  pep- 
per, into  a  stone-ware  jar,  which  must  have 
a  piece  of  linen  tied  over  it,  and  a  plate  laid 
upon  the  top.  The  pot  should  always  \)e 
kept  full  of  boiling  water,  taking  care  that 
it  do  not  boil  into  the  jar. 

TRIPE,  TO  ROAST.  Cut  the  tripe 
into  two  oblong  pieces,  make  a  forcemeat 


TRO 


225 


TUN 


of  bi*ead  cnimbs  and  chopped  parsley,  sea- 
soned with  pepper  and  salt;  bind  it  with 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs ;  spread  it  upon  the 
fat  side  of  the  tripe,  and  lay  on  the  other 
fat  side ;  then  foil  it  very  tigl)tly,  and  tie  it 
with  packthread.  Roast,  and  baste  it  with 
butter:  it  will  take  one  hour,  or  one  hour 
and  a  half.  Serve  it  with  melted  butter, 
into  which  put  a  table-spoonful  oflietchup 
and  one  of  lemon  pickle. 

TRIPE,  BREADED.  Cut  your  tripe 
into  small  square  pieces,  and  give  them  a 
few  turns  in  some  butter,  with  parsley,  salt, 
and  pepper;  roll  each  bit  in  grated  bread, 
and  broil  them  slowly.  When  done,  serve 
them  with  slices  of  lemon. 

TROUT.  This  fish  is  held  in  great 
estimation,  it  is  a  fiesh  water  fish,  and 
when  good,  of  a  flesh  color,  and  the  spots 
upon  it  are  very  bright ;  the  female  is  con- 
sidered the  best,  and  is  known  by  the  head 
being  smaller,  and  the  body  bemg  deeper 
than  that  of  the  male. 

TROUT,  POTTED.  Mix  together 
the  following  quantity  of  finely-powdered 
spices: — One  ounce  of  cloves,  half  an  ounce 
of  Jamaica  pepper,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
black  pepper,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cay- 
enne, two  nutmegs,  a  little  mace,  and  two 
tea-spoonfuls  of  ginger;  add  the  weight  of 
the  spices,  and  half  as  much  again  of  salt, 
and  mix  jill  thoroughly.  Clean  the  fish,  and 
cut  off  the  heads,  fins,  and  tails ;  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  mixed  spices  into  each  fish, 
and  lay  them  into  a  deep  earthen  jar,  with 
the  backs  downwards;  cover  them  with 
clarified  butter,  tie  a  paper  over  the  mouth 
of  the  jar,  and  bake  them  slowly  for  eight 
hours.  When  the  back  bone  is  tender,  the 
fish  are  done  enough.  Take  them  out  of 
the  jar,  and  put  them  into  a  milkpan  with 
the  backs  upwards;  cover  them  with  a 
board,  and  place  upon  it  a  heavy  weight. 
When  perfectly  cold,  remove  the  fish  into 
fresh  jars,  smooth  them  with  a  knife,  and 
cover  them  with  clarified  butter. 

TROUT,  TO  COLLAR.  Wash  them 
clean,  split  them  down  the  back  bone,  and 
dry  them  well  in  a  cloth ;  season  them  well 
with  finely-pounded  black  pepper,  salt,  and 
mace;  roll  them  tight,  and  lay  them  close 
into  a  dish ;  pour  over  an  equal  quantity  of 
vinegar  and  l)eer,  with  two  or  three  bay- 
leaves,  and  some  whole  black  pepper;  tie 
over  the  dish  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and 
bake  them  an  hour. 

TROUT,  TO  BROIL.  Cut  off  the  fins, 
and  cut  the  fish  down  the  back,  close  to  the 
bone,  and  split  the  head  in  two.     Anotlier 


way  is,  after  they  have  been  cut  open,  to 
rub  a  little  salt  over  them ;  let  them  lie  three 
or  four  hours,  and  then  hang  them  up  in  the 
kitchen.  They  will  be  ready  to  broil  the 
next  morning  for  breakfast. 

TROUT,  TO  BOIL.  Clean  and  gut 
them ;  make  the  water  as  salt  as  for  boil- 
ing salmon  in,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  the 
trout,  and  let  them  boil  fast  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  their  size. 
Sauce;— melted  butter. 

TROUT,  TO  FRY.  Cut  off  the  fins, 
clean  and  gut  them ;  dust  them  with  flour, 
and  dip  them  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten ; 
strew  grated  bread  crumbs  over,  and  fry  them 
in  fresh  dripping;  lay  them  upon  the  back 
of  a  sieve  before  the  fire  to  drain.  Sauce; 
— melted  butter,  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
ketchup,  and  one  of  lemon  pickle  in  it. 
When  they  are  small,  roll  thera  in  oatmeal 
before  tliey  are  fried. 

TRUFFLES.  The  truffle,  like  the  mush- 
room, is  a  species  of  fungus  common  in 
France  and  Italy ;  it  generally  grows  about 
eight  or  ten  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground;  tis  it  imparts  a  most  delicious  flavor, 
it  is  much  used  in  cookeiy.  Being  dug  out 
of  the  earth,  it  requires  a  gieat  deal  of  wash- 
ing and  brushing,  before  it  can  be  applied  to 
culinary  purposes;  when  washed,  the  water 
should  be  warm,  and  changed  frequently.  It 
loses  much  of  its  flavor  when  dried. 

TRUFFLE  SAUCE.  Mince  two  or 
three  truffles  very  small,  and  toss  them  up 
lightly,  in  either  oil  or  butter,  according  to 
your  taste ;  then  put  to  them  four  or  five  la- 
dlefuls  of  veloute  and  a  spoonfiil  of  con- 
somme; let  it  l)oil  for  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  over  a  gentle  fire,  skim  off  all 
the  fat;  keep  your  sauce  hot  in  tlie  bain- 
marie. 

TRUFFLES  TOURTE.  Take  two 
pounds  of  fine  truffles,  wash  and  pick  them ; 
put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  six  thin  slices 
of  ham,  a  veiy  little  carrot,  a  sliced  onion, 
a  bay-leaf,  sweet  herbs  in  powder,  salt,  and 
Champagne ;  lay  rashers  uf  bacon  over  the 
whole,  and  stew  them  to  nearly  a  jelly. 
When  cold,  put  the  truffles  into  a  crust  with 
all  the  seasoning;  bake  the  tourte,  and  serve 
as  usual. 

TUNBRIDGE    CAKES.       Rub  two 

ounces  of  butter  into  half  a  pound  of  dried 
flour ;  add  a  few  caraway  seeds,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar ;  mix 
it  to  a  stiff  paste  with  a  little  water,  roll  it 
out  veiy  thin,  cut  it  into  round  cakes  with 
a  glass  or  the  top  of  a  dredging  lx)x,  pricH 


TU  R 


226 


TUR 


them  with  a  fork,  and  bake  them  upon 
floured  tins. 

TUNBRIDGE  PUFFS.  Put  into  a 
nicely-tinned  saucepan  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
when  it  boils,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will 
make  it  a  thick  batter;  add  three  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  two  or  three  drops  of  oil 
of  cinnamon,  or  any  other  seasoning;  dust 
a  large  flat  plate  with  flour,  with  a  spoon 
throw  on  it  the  batter,  in  the  form  of  balls 
or  fritters,  and  drop  diem  into  boiling  cla- 
rified dripping  or  lard.  Serve  them  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed  over. 

The  batter  may  be  made  into  a  pudding, 
adding  with  the  eggs  an  ounce  of  salt  but- 
ter.    Boil  and  serve  it  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

TURBOT.  Turbot,  when  good,  should 
be  thick  and  full,  and  the  belly  of  a  yellow- 
ish white  or  cream  color. 

TURBOT,  BAKED.  Wash  your  fish 
in  several  waiters,  dry  it  well,  and  soak  it 
in  melted  butter,  with  sweet  herbs,  parsley, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  in  half  an  hour 
put  the  whole  into  a  baking  dish,  envelope 
it  completely  in  bread  crumbs,  and  bake  it. 

TURBOT,  BREADED.  Prepare  a 
small  turbot  as  usual,  slit  it  across  the  back, 
and  soak  it  for  an  hour  in  melted  butler, 
or  lemon-juice,  with  parsley,  sweet  herbs, 
Bait,  and  jiepper.  Cover  the  fish  with 
bread  crumbs,  and  broil  it;  when  done, 
squeeze  lemon,  or  Seville  orange-juice  over 
it,  and  serve. 

TURBOT,  STUFFED  AND  BAKED. 

Your  turbot  being  properly  cleansed,  turn 
over  the  skin  of  the  under  side,  without  cut- 
ting it  off;  make  a/arce,  with  some  butter, 
parsley,  scaliions,  morels,  sweet  herbs,  all 
shred,  and  united  together,  with  yolks  of 
^gs,  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ; 
spread  this  all  over  the  under  part  of  the 
fish,  cover  it  with  the  skin,  and  sew  it  up. 
Dissolve  some  butter  in  a  saucepan ;  add  to 
it  when  melted,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  sweet 
herbs  shred,  salt,  and  pepper;  rub  the  fish 
all  over  with  tliis,  then  bread,  and  bake  it. 

TURBOT,  TO  BOIL.  (1)  This  excellent 
fish  is  in  season  the  greatest  part  of  the  sum- 
mer ;  when  good,  it  is  at  once  firm  and  ten- 
der, and  abounds  with  rich  gelatinous  nu- 
triment. 

Being  drawn,  and  washed  clean,  if  it  be 
quite  fresh,  by  rubbing  it  lightly  with  salt, 
and  keeping  it  in  a  cold  place,  you  may  in 
moderate  weather  preserve  it  for  a  couple 
of  days. 

An  hour  or  two  before  you  dress  it,  soak 
U  in  spring  water  witl)  some  salt  in  it,  then 


sco>-e  the  skin  across  the  thickest  part  of 
die  back,  to  prevent  its  breaking  on  the 
breast,  which  will  happen  fiom  the  fish 
swelling,  and  cracking  the  skin,  if  this  pre- 
caution lie  not  used.  Put  a  large  handful 
of  still  into  a  fish-ketile  with  cold  water, 
lay  your  fish  on  a  fish-strainer,  put  it  in, 
and  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil,  skim  it 
well ;  then  set  the  kettle  on  the  side  of  tlie 
fire,  to  boil  as  gently  as  possible  for  about 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  (if  it  boils  fest, 
the  fish  will  break  to  pieces) ;  supposing  it 
a  middling-sized  turbot,  and  to  weigh  eight 
or  nine  pounds. 

Rub  a  liltle  of  the  inside  red  coral  spawn 
of  the  lobster  through  a  hair  sieve,  with- 
out butter;  and  when  the  turbot  is  dished, 
sprinkle  the  spawn  over  it.  Garnish  the 
dish  with  sprigs  of  curled  parsley,  sliced 
lemon,  and  finely-scraped  horseradish. 

If  you  like  to  send  it  to  table  in  full  dress, 
surround  it  with  nicely-fried  smelts,  gudg- 
eons are  often  used  for  this  purpose,  and  may 
be  bought  very  cheap  when  smelts  arc  veiy 
dear;  lay  the  largest  opposite  the  broadest 
part  of  the  turbot,  so  that  they  may  form  a 
well-proportioned  fringe  for  it;  or  oysters; 
or  cut  a  sole  in  strips,  crossways,  about  the 
size  of  a  smelt ;  fry  them  and  lay  them 
round.  Send  up  lobster  sauce,  two  boats 
of  it,  if  it  is  for  a  large  party. 

Obs. — The  thickest  part  is  the  favorite; 
and  the  carver  of  this  fish  must  remember 
to  ask  his  friends  if  they  are  fin-fanciers. 
It  will  save  a  troublesome  job  to  the  carver 
if  the  cook,  when  the  fish  is  boiled,  cuts  the 
spine  bone  across  the  middle. 

TURBOT,  TO  BOIL.  (2)  Put  into 
the  turbot  kettle,  with  the  water,  two  large 
handfuls  of  salt,  and  a  tea-cupful  of  vinegar; 
when  it  boils  very  fast,  take  off  the  scum; 
put  in  the  turlx>t,  and  when  it  boils  again 
keep  it  boiling  fast  till  the  turbot  rises  from 
the  drainer;  when  it  is  sufficiently  done, 
dish  and  garnish  it  with  a  fringe  of  curled 
parsley  and  cut  lemon.  Sauces; — lobster 
and  melted  butter. 

Cold  boiled  turbot  eats  well  with  salad 
sauce. 

Turbot  is  generally  considered  liest  per- 
fectly fresh ;  but  some  people  prefer  it  kept 
for  a  few  days,  hung  up  by  the  tail  in  a 
cool  place. 

TURBOT,  GRILLED.  Split  the  fish 
down  the  back,  and  soak  it  for  sometime, 
with  melted  butter,  parsley,  sweet  herbs, 
salt,  and  pepper.  Bread  the  turbot  well, 
bioil,  and  serve  it  with  lemon,  or  Seville, 
orange-juice. 

TURBOT,  WITH  WHITE  SAUCE. 
Put  a  sliced  onion,  some  tliyme,  basil,  and^ 


TUR 


227 


TUR 


Bweet  herbs  into  a  stewpan,  place  a  small 
turbot  on  these,  strew  similar  herbs,  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  leek,  cut  in  pieces  over  it; 
cover  the  fish  with  equal  quantities  of  vine- 
gar, and  white  wine;  let  it  boil  over  a 
moderate  fiie  until  sufficiently  done;  in  the 
meantime,  melt  a  pound  of  butter,  add  to  it 
a  couple  of  boned  anchovies,  two  spoonfuls 
of  capers,  shred  small,  two  or  three  leeks, 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  a  little  vinegar,  water, 
and  a  sprinkling  of  flour;  make  all  these 
quite  hot,  stirring  constantly  till  done;  then 
dish  the  turbot,  |X)ur  tlie  sauce  over  it,  and 


TURKEY,  BOILED.  Make  a  stuffing 
of  bread,  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lem- 
on-|)eel,  a  few  oysters,  or  an  anchovy,  a  bit 
of  butter,  some  suet,  and  an  egg ;  put  this 
into  the  crop,  fasten  up  the  skin,  and  boil 
the  turkey  in  a  floured  cloth  to  make  it  very 
while.  Have  ready  some  oyster  sauce 
made  rich  with  butter,  a  little  cream,  and  a 
spoonful  of  soy,  and  serve  over  the  turkey, 
or  you  may  serve  over  it  a  liver  and  lemon 
sauce. 

TURKEY,  TURKEY  POULTS,  and 
OTHEK  Poultry.  A  fowl  and  a  turkey 
require  the  same  management  at  the  fire, 
only  the  latter  will  take  longer  time. 

Many  a  Christmas  dinner  has  been  spoil- 
ed by  the  turkey  having  been  hung  up  in  a 
cold  larder,  and  becoming  thoroughly  fro- 
zen; Jack  Frost  has  ruined  the  reputation 
of  many  a  turkey  roaster. 

Let  them  be  carefully  picked,  &c.  and 
break  the  breast  bone  (to  make  them  look 
plump),  twist  up  a  sheet  of  clean  wiiting 
paper,  light  it,  and  thoroughly  singe  the 
turkey  all  over,  tuniing  it  about  over  the 
flame. 

Turkeys,  fowls,  and  capons  have  a  much 
better  appearance,  if,  instead  of  trussing 
them  with  the  legs  close  together,  and  the 
feet  cut  oflT,  the  legs  are  extended  on  each 
side  of  the  bird,  and  the  toes  only  cut  off, 
with  a  skewer  through  each  foot,  to  keep 
them  at  a  proper  distance. 

Be  careful,  when  you  draw  it,  to  preserve 
the  liver,  and  not  to  break  the  gall-bag,  as 
no  washing  will  take  off"  the  bitter  taste  it 
gives,  where  it  once  touches. 

Prepare  a  nice,  clear,  brisk  (ire  for  it. 

Make  stuffing ;  stuff"  it  under  the  breast, 
where  the  craw  was  taken  out,  and  make 
some  into  balls,  and  boil  or  fry  them,  and 
lay  them  round  the  dish ;  they  are  handy  to 
help,  and  you  can  then  reserve  some  of  the 
inside  stuffing  to  eat  with  the  cold  turkey, 
or  to  enrich  a  hash. 

TURKEY  EN  DAUBE.  Take  an  old 
turkey,  truss  it  in  the  usual  way ;  roll  some 


I  large  lardons  in  a  mixture  of  stih,  pepper, 
j  four  spices,  and  sweet  herbs,  and  then  lard 
the  turkey  with  ihem;  lay  slices  of  bacon 
in  a  braising-pan,  put  the  turkey  on  them, 
with  two  small  knuckles  of  veal,  the  feet  of 
the  bird,  four  carrots,  six  onions,  three 
cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  thyme,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  and  young  onions;  cover  the  whole 
with  bacon  and  a  piece  of  buttered  paper; 
dilute  it  with  four  ladlefuls  of  stock  (or 
more  if  the  turkey  be  very  large),  put  in  a 
little  salt,  and  set  the  pan  on  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly  for  three  hours  and  a  half;  then  take 
it  off",  but  do  not  take  the  bird  out  for  at 
least  half  an  hour.  Strain  off"  the  liquor, 
and  then  reduce  it  to  a  fourth,  or  more  if 
very  thin;  break  an  egg  into  another  sauce- 
pan, beat  it  up  well,  and  then  pour  the  li- 
quor on  it,  whisk  them  well  together,  and 
if  It  wants  flavor,  add  a  few  sweet  herbs, 
parsley  leaves,  and  a  young  onion  or  two; 
put  it  on ;  the  fire,  stirring  it  violently  until 
ready  to  boil;  as  soon  as  it  has  boiled  up 
once  or  twice;  set  it  by  the  side  of  a  stove, 
put  fire  on  the  top  of  the  saucepan,  and  let 
it  simmer  half  an  hour ;  then  strain  it  care- 
fully through  a  fine  cloth,  and  let  it  cool  to 
serve  it  widi  the  turkey. 

TURKEY,  HASHED.   (1)   Cut  up  the 

remains  of  a  roasted  turkey,  put  it  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  glass  of  white  wine,  chop- 
ped parsley,  shallots,  mushrooms,  truffles, 
salt  and'  pepper,  two  spoonfuls  of  cullis,  and 
a  little  stock ;  boil  half  an  hour,  and  reduce 
to  a  thick  sauce;  when  ready,  add  a  pound 
of  anchovy,  and  a  squeeze  of  lemon ;  skim 
oflf  all  the  fat  from  the  sauce,  and  serve  all 
i  together. 

TURKEY,  HASHED.  (2)  Stir  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour  into  some 
cream,  and  a  little  veal  gravy,  till  it  boils 
up;  mince  some  cold  roasted  or  boiled 
turkey,  but  not  too  small;  put  it  into  the 
sauce,  add  grated  lemon-peel,  white  pepper, 
pounded  mace,  a  little  mushroom  ketchup  or 
mushroom  powder ;  simmer  it  up,  and  serve. 
Oysters  may  be  added. 

TURKEY,  ROASTED.      It  may  be 

either  stufl^d  with  sausage  meat,  or  stuffing 
the  same  as  for  fillet  of  veal.  As  this  makes 
a  large  addition  to  the  size  of  the  bird,  take 
care  that  the  heat  of  the  fire  is  constantly  to 
that  part,  as  it  frequently  happens  that  the 
breast  is  not  sufficiently  done.  A  strip  of 
paper  should  be  put  on  the  bone  to  prevent 
its  scorching,  while  the  other  parts  are 
roasting.  Baste  well,  and  froth  it  up.  Serve 
with  gravy  in  the  disli,  and  bread  sauce  in  a 
sauce  tureen.  A  few  bread  crumbs,  and  a 
beaten  egg  should  be  added  to  tlie  stuffing 
of  sausage  meat. 


TUR 


228 


TUR 


TURKEY,  STUFFED  WITH  SAU- 
SAGES AND  CHESTNUTS.  Roast 
what  (jiiaiuiiy  of  clicstnuts  yon  tliink  neces- 
sary, \yeel  tliein,  and  pound  a  part  of  tliem 
lo  make  a  farce,  with  the  liver,  chopped 
parsley,  shallots,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  a 
bit  of  butter,  and  the  yolks  of  three  raw 
eggs,  put  lU'is  farce  into  the  crop,  and  stuff 
the  body  with  the  whole  chestnuts,  and  small 
sausages,  first  fried  in  butter  till  about  half 
done  ;  cover  the  turkey  with  slices  of  bacon, 
and  put  paper  over  that,  then  roast  it,  and 
serve  with  a  chestnut  cuUis. 

TURNIPS,  TO  DRESS  YOUNG 
WHITE.  Wash,  peel,  and  boil  them  till 
tender  in  water  with  a  little  salt;  serve  them 
with  melted  buKer  poured  over  them.  Or, 
They  may  \)e  stewed  in  a  pint  of  milk  thick- 
ened with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  served 
with  the  sauce. 

TURNIPS.  Feel  off  half  an  inch  of  the 
stringy  outside.  Full-grown  turnips  will 
take  about  an  hour  and  ahalf  gentle  boiling; 
if  you  slice  them,  which  m  :st  people  do,  they 
will  be  done  sooner;  try  them  with  a  fork; 
when  tender,  take  them  up,  and  lay  them  on 
a  sieve  till  the  water  is  thoroughly  drained 
from  I  hem.  Send  them  up  whole;  do  not 
slice  them. 

TURNIPS,  TO  Boil  Yellow  or 
Large  White.  Wash,  pare,  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water;  put  them  on  in  boiling 
water  with  a  little  salt,  and  boil  them  from 
two  hours  to  two  and  a  half,  drain  them  in 
a  cullender,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and 
mixing  in  a  bit  of  butter,  with  a  beater  uiash 
them  very  smoothly,  add  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
mix  it  well  with  the  turnips,  and  make  them 
quite  hot  Ijefore  serving.  If  they  are  to  \ie 
served  plain,  dish  them  as  soon  as  the  water 
is  drained  off. 

TURNIP  TOPS,  Are  the  shoots  which 
grow  out  (in  the  spring)  of  the  old  turnip 
roots.  Put  them  into  cold  water  an  hour 
before  they  are  to  be  dressed ;  the  more  wa- 
ter they  are  boiled  in,  the  better  they  will 
look ;  if  boiled  in  a  small  quantify  of  water 
they  will  taste  bitter:  when  the  water  boils, 
put  in  a  small  handful  of  salt,  and  then  your 
vegetables;  if  fresh  and  young,  they  will  be 
done  in  about  twenty  minutes;  drain  them 
on  the  back  of  a  sieve. 

TURTLE  SOUP.  (1)  To  dress  a 
Turtle  weighing  one  hundred  and  twenty 
pounds.  Having  cut  off  the  head  close  to 
the  shell,  hang  up  the  turtle  till  the  next 
day,  tlien  open  it,  tearing  the  knife  heavi- 
ly on  the  Ixick  of  the  animal  in  cutting  it 


off  all  round;  turn  it  on  its  end,  that  all 
the  blood  and  water  may  nm  out,  then  cut 
the  flesh  off  along  the  spine,  sloping  the  knife 
towards  the  bones  so  as  to  avoid  touching 
the  gall,  and  having  also  cut  the  flesh  from 
the  legs  and  other  members,  wash  the  whole 
well  and  drain  it.  A  large  vessel  of  boil- 
ing water  being  ready  on  the  fire,  put  in 
the  breast  shell,  and  when  the  plates  will 
separate  easily  take  them  out  of  the  water; 
boil  the  back  and  belly  in  water  till  the  softer 
parts  can  be  taken  off  easily  ;  but  before  they 
are  sufficiently  done,  as  they  aie  to  be  again 
boiled  in  the  sauce,  lay  them  to  cool  singly 
in  eaithen  vessels  that  they  may  not  stick 
together,  let  the  bones  continue  to  stew  for 
some  time,  as  the  liquor  must  be  used  for 
moistening  the  sauces. 

All  tJie  flesh  cut  from  the  body,  the  four 
legs  and  head  must  be  stewed  in  the  following 
manner.  Lay  a  few  slices  of  ham  on  the 
bottom  of  a  large  stewpan,  and  over  the  ham 
two  oi'  three  knuckles  of  veal,  then  above  the 
veal,  the  inside  flesh  of  the  turtle,  and  that 
of  the  members  over  the  whole,  adding  a 
large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  such  as  sweet 
basil,  sweet  marjoram,  lem(jn  ti)yme,a  hand- 
ful of  parsley,  and  green  onions,  and  a  large 
onion  stuck  with  six  doves.  Then  partly 
moisten  it  with  the  water  in  which  the  shell 
is  lx)iling,  and  when  it  has  stewed  some 
time,  moisten  it  again  with  the  liquor  in 
which  the  back  and  belly  have  been  boiled. 
When  the  legs  are  tender,  take  them  out, 
drain,  and  put  them  aside  to  be  afterwards 
added  to  the  sauce;  and  when  the  flesh  is 
completely  done,  drain  it  through  a  silk  sieve, 
and  mix  with  the  .auce  some  very  thin  white 
roux;  then  cut  all  the  softer  paits,  now 
sufficiently  cold,  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
s(|uare,  add  them  to  the  sauce,  and  let  them 
simmer  gently  till  they  can  be  easily  pierced ; 
skim  it  well. 

Next  chop  a  small  quantity  of  herbs,  and 
boil  them  with  a  little  sugar  in  four  Iwttles 
of  Madeira  till  reduced  to  two,  then  rub  it 
through  a  tamn)y,  mix  it  with  the  turtle 
sauce,  and  let  it  boil  for  a  short  time.  Make 
some  forcemeat  balls  as  fbllows: — Cut  off 
about  a  pound  of  meat  from  the  fleshy  part 
of  a  leg  of  veal  free  from  sinews  or  fat,  soak 
in  milk  about  the  same  quantity  of  crumbs 
of  bread ;  when  quite  soft,  squeeze  and  put 
it  into  a  mortar,  together  with  the  veal,  a 
small  quantity  of  calf's  uddei-,  a  little  butter, 
the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiletl  egg^,  a  little 
cayeime,  salt  and  sf)ices;  pound  the  whole 
very  finely,  then  thi\;ken  the  mixtme  with 
two  whole  eggs  and  the  yolk  of  a  third,  throw 
a  bit  into  boiling  water,  and  if  not  sutficiently 
firm,  add  the  y)lk  of  another  egg,  and  for 
variety  some  chopped  parsley  may  l)e  mixed 
with  half  of  the  fo)cemeat.  Let  the  whole 
cool  so  that  it  may  be  formed  into  balls  about 


TUR 


229 


VEAL 


the  size  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  poach  them  in 
Jboiiing  water,  and  add  them  to  the  turtle. 
Befijre  serving,  mix  a  little  cayenne  with 
-jthe  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons,  and  add  it 
r  to  the  soup.  It  is  generally  preferable  to 
prepare  the  soup  the  day  before  it  is  required 
for  use,  and  it  will  be  best  heated  in  a  water 
bath,  or  flat  vessel  containing  water,  which 
is  always  kept  very  hot,  but  not  allowed  to 
boil.  By  the  same  method,  sauces,  stews, 
and  other  made  dishes  may  be  kept  hot. 

When  the  fins  cf  the  turtle  are  to  be  served 
as  a  side  dish,  they  must  be  first  parboiled, 
then  skinned,  and  stewed  in  a  little  turtle 
sauce,  with  some  Port  wine,  and  seasoned 
with  cayenne,  salt,  and  a  little  lemon-juice, 
and  thickened  with  butter  and  flour. 

Fricandeaux  and  Blanquettes  may  also  be 
made  of  the  flesh  of  the  turtle,  in  the  same 
way  as  those  of  veal. 

TURTLE  SOUP.  (2)  The  day  before 
you  dress  a  turtle,  chop  the  herbs,  and  make 
the  forcemeat;  then,  on  the  preceding  eve- 
ning, suspend  the  turtle  by  the  two  hind  fins 
with  a  cord;  and  put  one  round  the  neck, 
with  a  heavy  weight  attached  to  it  to  draw 
out  the  neck,  that  the  head  may  be  cut  oft' 
with  more  ease ;  let  the  turtle  hang  all  night, 
in  which  time  the  blood  will  be  well  drained 
from  the  body.  Then,  early  in  the  morning, 
having  j'oin-  stoves,  and  plenty  of  hot  water 
in  readiness,  take  the  turtle,  lay  it  on  the 
table  on  its  back,  and  with  a  strong  pointed 
knife  cut  all  round  the  under  shell,  (which  is 
the  callipee) ;  there  are  joints  at  each  end, 
which  must  be  carefully  found,  gently  sepi- 
niting  it  from  the  callipasli  (which  is  the 
upper  shell) ;  be  careful  that  in  cutting  out 
the  gut  you  do  not  break  the  gall.  When 
the  callipee  and  the  callipash  are  perfectly 
separated,  take  out  that  part  of  the  gut  that 
leads  from  the  throat;  that,  with  the  three 
hearts,  put  into  a  basin  of  water  by  them- 
selves; the  other  interior  part  put  away. 
Take  the  callipee,  and  cut  off  the  meat 
which  adheres  to  it  in  four  quarters,  laying 
it  on  a  clean  dish.  Take  twenty  pounds  of 
veal,  chop  it  up,  and  set  it  in  a  large  pot,  as 
directed  for  expagnole,  putting  in  the  flesh 
of  the  turtle  at  the  same  time,  with  all  kinds 
of  turtle  herbs,  carrots,  onions,  one  pound  and 
a  half  of  lean  ham,  pepper  corns,  salt,  a  little 
spice,  and  two  bay  leaves,  leaving  it  to  stew 
till  it  takes  the  color  of  espagnole;  put  the 
fins  (the  skin  being  scalded  off")  and  hearts  in, 
half  an  hour  before  you  fill  it,  with  half  wa- 
ter, and  half  beef  stock ;  tlien  carefidly  skim 
it;  put  in  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  let  it  boil 
gently,  like  consomme.  While  the  turtle  is 
stewing,  carefully  scald  the  head,  the  calli- 
pee, and  all  that  is  soft  of  the  callipash,  at- 
tentively  observing  to  take  oft"  the  smallest 
particle  of  skin  that  may  remain;  put  them 


with  the  gut  into  a  large  pot  of  water  to  boil 
till  tender;  when  so,  take  them  out,  and  rat 
them  in  squares,  putting  them  in  a  basin  by 
themselves  till  wanted  for  the  soup.  The 
next  thing  is  the  thickening  of  the  soup, 
which  must  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
as  sauce  foumee.  The  turtle  being  well 
done,  take  out  the  fins  and  hearts,  and  lay  (hem 
on  a  dish ;  the  whole  of  the  liquor  must  pass 
through  a  sieve  into  a  large  pan  ;  then,  with 
a  ladle,  take  oft"  all  the  fat,  put  it  into  a  ba- 
sin, then  mix  in  the  turtle  li(]uor  (a  small 
quantity  at  a  time)  with  the  thickening  made 
the  same  as  sauce  tournee;  but  it  does  not 
require  to,  neither  must  it  be,  one  twentieth 
part  so  thi('k ;  set  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  and 
continue  stirring  till  it  boils;  when  it  has 
boiled  two  hours,  being  skimmed  all  the 
while,  squeeze  it  through  the  tammy  into 
another  large  stewpan,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  as  l)efore,  till  it  boils;  when  it  has 
boiled  gently  for  one  hour,  put  in  the  calli- 
pee and  callipash,  with  the  gut,  hearts,  and 
some  of  the  best  of  the  meat  and  head,  all 
cut  in  squares,  with  the  forcemeat  balls  and 
herbs,  which  you  should  have  ready  chopped 
and  stewed  in  espagnole j  (the  herbs  are 
parsley,  lemon  thyme,  marjoram,  basil,  sa- 
vory, and  a  few  chopped  mushrooms).  It 
must  Ije  carefully  attended  to  and  skimmed, 
and  one  hour  and  a  half  l)efore  dinner,  put  in 
a  bottle  of  Madeira  wine,  and  nearly  half  a 
bottle  of  brandy,  keeping  it  c<intiniially  boil- 
in*  gently,  and  skimming  it;  then  take  a 
basin,  put  a  little  cayenne  pepper  into  it, 
with  the  juice  of  six  lemons  squeezed  through 
a  sieve.  W^hen  the  diimer  is  wanted,  skim 
the  turtle,  stir  it  well  up,  and  put  in  a  little 
salt,  if  necessary ;  then  stir  in  the  cayenne 
and  lemon-juice,  and  ladle  it  into  the  tureen. 
This  receipt  will  answer  for  a  turtle  between 
fifty  and  sixty  pounds. 

|C3='  For   Mock    Turtle    and    oihm- 
Soups,  See  Soups. 


TWELFTH 
Icing. 


CAKE    ICING.     S^e 


V. 


VEAL.  The  names  of  die  joints  are  as 
follows:  Loin,  best  end — Loin,  chump  end 
— Fillet — Hind  Knuckle — Fore  knuckle — 
Neck,  best  end — Neck,  scrag  end — Blade 
bone — Breast,  best  end — Brisket  end. 

Veal  should  be  fine  in  the  grain,  firm, 
white,  and  fat,  and  the  leg  bone  small.  The 
finest  calves  have  the  smallest  kidney,  aiH  it* 
lieing  well  covered  with  thick  white  fat,  in- 
dicates good  veal.  The  fillet  of  a  cow  calf 
is  to  be  preferred,  on  account  of  the  udder. 
The  prime  joints  are  tite  fillet,  tiie  loin,  the 


VEAL 


230 


VEAL 


chomp  end  of  the  loin,  and  the  best  end  of 
the  neck.  To  keep  it,  the  same  directions 
may  be  followed,  which  are  given  for  keeping 
beef. 

When  the  fillet  is  to  be  roasted,  it  should 
be  washed,  well  dried,  and  the  bone  taken 
out,  and  die  space  filled  with  a  fine  stutTing, 
part  of  which  should  be  put  under  the  flap, 
then  formed  into  a  round  and  firmly  skew- 
ered. That  the  fire  may  be  clean  and  strong, 
it  should  be  madeups<imetime  before  putting 
down  the  roast,  which  should  at  first  bo 
placed  at  some  distance  from  it,  and  be  fre- 
quently and  well  basted  with  butter.  When 
about  half  roasted,  a  piece  of  white  paper  is 
tied  over  the  fat;  a  little  before  serving,  it 
is  removed,  the  meat  is  then  sprinkled  with 
salt,  dredged  with  flour,  and  well  basted  to 
froth  it.  When  dished,  finely  melted  butter 
18  poured  over  it,  with  which  may  or  may 
not  be  mixed  some  lemon  pickle  or  brown 
gravy.     It  is  garnished  with  cut  lemon. 

Veal  is  expected  to  come  to  table  looking 
delicately  clean;  and  it  is  so  easily  discol- 
ored, that  you  must  be  careful  to  have  clean 
water,  a  clean  vessel,  and  constantly  catch 
the  scum  as  soon  and  as  long  as  it  rises. 
Send  up  bacon,  fried  sausages,  or  pickled 
pork,  greens,  and  parsley  and  butter,  and 
onion  sauce. 

Veal  requires  particular  care  to  roast  it  a 
nice  brown.  Let  the  fire  be  the  same  as  for 
beef;  a  sound  large  fire  for  a  large  joint,  and 
a  brisker  for  a  smaller ;  put  it  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  fire  to  soak  thoroughly,  and 
then  draw  it  near  to  finish  it  brown. 

When  first  laid  down,  it  is  to  be  basted; 
baste  it  again  occasionally.  When  the  veal 
is  on  the  dish,  pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of 
melted  butter:  if  you  have  a  little  brown 
gravy  by  you,  add  that  to  the  butter.  With 
those  joints  which  are  not  stuffed,  send  up 
forcemeat  in  l)alls,  or  rolled  into  sausages,  as 
garnish  to  the  dish,  or  fried  pork  sausages; 
bacon  and  greens,  are  also  always  expected 
with  boiled  veal. 

Fillet  of  Veal,  Of  from  twelve  to  sixteen 
pounds,  will  re<iuire  from  four  to  five  hours 
at  a  good  fire ;  make  some  sluflSng  or  force- 
meat, and  put  it  in  under  the  flap,  that  there 
may  be  some  left  to  eat  cold,  or  to  season  a 
hash ;  brown  it,  and  pour  good  melted  butter 
over  iu 

Garnish  with  thin  slices  of  lemon  and 
cakes  or  balls  of  stufiing,  or  duck  etuflSng,  or 
fried  pork  sausages,  curry  sauce,  bacon  and 
greens,  &c. 

A  bit  of  the  brown  outside  is  a  favorite 
with  the  epicure  in  roasts.  The  kidney,  cut 
out,  sliced,  and  broiled,  is  a  high  relish, 
which  some  bons  vivarUs  are  fond  of. 

A  Loin,  Is  the  best  part  of  the  calf,  and 
will  take  about  three  hours  roasting.  Pa- 
per tlie  kidney   fat,   and   the   back:   some 


cooks  send  it  up  on  a  toast,  which  is  eaten 
with  the  kidney  and  (he  fat  of  this  part, 
which  is  as  delicate  as  any  marrow.  If 
there  is  more  of  it  than  you  think  will  be 
eaten  with  the  veal,  before  you  roast  it  cut 
it  out ;  it  will  make  an  excellent  suet  pud- 
ding; take  care  to  have  your  fire  long 
enough  to  brown  the  ends;  same  accom- 
paniments as  alwve. 

A  Shoulder,  From  three  hours  to  three 
hours  and  a  half;  stuff  it  with  the  force- 
meat ordered  for  the  fillet  of  veal,  in  the 
under  side. 

Neck,  best  end.  Will  take  two  hours; 
same  accompaniments  as  fillet.  The  scrag 
part  is  best  made  into  a  pie,  or  broth. 

Breast,  From  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours.  Let  the  caul  remain  till  it  is  almost 
done,  then  take  it  off  to  brown  it;  baste, 
flour,  and  fioth  it. 

This  makes  a  savory  relish  for  a  luncheon 
or  su[)[)er:  or,  instead  of  roasting,  boil  it 
enougli ;  put  it  in  a  cloth  between  two  pew- 
ter dishes,  with  a  weight  on  the  upper  one, 
and  let  it  remain  so  till  cold;  then  pare 
and  trim,  egg,  and  crumb  it,  and  broil,  or 
warm  it  in  a  Dutch  oven ;  serve  with  it 
cajiers,  or  wow  wow  sauce.  Breast  of 
mutton  may  be  dressed  the  same  way. 


VEAL  ALAMOUE. 
mode. 


See  BeefAla- 


VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED  WITH 
Green  Peas.  Make  a  (juart  of  gravy 
with  the  scrag  end;  strain  it;  cut  the  rest 
of  the  veal  into  small  pieces  of  nearly  an 
equal  size;  putjt  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
gravy,  some  |)ep|)er,  salt,  mace,  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  anrl  a  tjuart  of  green  peas. 
Cover  the  pan  closely,  and  let  it  stew  nearly 
two  hours;  then  put  in  a  lettuce  cut  small, 
and  let  it  stew  half  an  hour  longer.  A  lit- 
tle before  serving,  add  half  an  ounce  of 
browned   butter,  mixed  with  a  little  flour. 

VEAL  BREAST,  BROILED.  Half 
roast  and  then  score  it;  season  it  with  pars- 
ley, a  few  finely-minced  sweet  herbs,  a  lit- 
tle j)epper  and  salt,  and  broil  it.  Make  a 
sauce  with  some  giavy  seasoned  with  onion, 
grated  nutmeg,  mace,  salt,  and  an  anchovy ; 
boil  and  strain  it;  thicken  it  with  flour  and 
butter.  Add  some  minced  capers  and  small 
mushrooms ;  pour  it  quite  hot  over  the  veal. 
Garnish  with  sliced  lemon. 

VEAL  BREAST,  COLLARED.  Bone 
it,  and  lay  over  it  a  thick  layer  of  force- 
meat, made  with  bread  crumbs,  chopped 
oysterS;  parsley,  and  grated  ham,  seasoned 
with  lemon-peej,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg, 
mixed  with  an  egg  beaten  up.  Roll  and 
bind  it  witli  tape ;  boil  it  in  a  cloth,  and  put 


VEAL 


231 


VEAL 


it  on  in  boiling  water  ;  let  it  boil  gently  for 
three  hours.  Boil  the  bones  with  an  onion, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  salt,  and  pepper; 
strain  and  thicken  it  with  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cream,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten 
up,  and  a  bit  of  butter  mixed  with  flour. 
Parboil  and  slice  the  sweetbread,  dip  it 
into  an  egg, and  strew  over  it  grated  bread; 
fry  it  with  forcemeat  balls.  Serve  the 
veal  with  the  sauce  poured  over  it.  Gar- 
nish with  the  sweetbread  and  forcemeat 
balls. 

VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED.  (1)  Half 
roast  the  veal  till  of  a  light  brown,  then 
stew  it  over  a  stove  for  two  hours,  in  a 
rich  gravy,  with  a  shallot,  three  cloves,  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  little  walnut  pickle,  some 
oyster  liquor,  and  a  few  small  mushrooms. 
Half  an  hour  before  serving,  add  a  little 
anchovy  liquor.  Garnish  with  cut  lemon 
and  curled  parsley. 

VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED.   (2)  Cut 

out  the  blade  bone,  and  stuff  the  whole  with 
a  nice  forcemeat ;  sew  it  up,  half  rojist  it, 
and  make  a  quart  of  gravy  of  the  bones  and 
trimmings;  season  it  with  whole  pepper, 
two  blades  of  mace,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  a 
large  onion,  some  salt,  and  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley. Strain  and  thicken  it  with  butter  roll- 
ed in  flour;  put  io  the  veal,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar;  let  it  stew  nearly  two 
hours.  A  little  before  serving,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine.  Forcemeat  balls  may  be  serv- 
ed with  it. 

VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED.  (3)   Cut 

off  the  short  bones  or  gristles  of  a  breast 
of  veal;  stew  them  in  a  little  white  stock, 
with  a  slice  of  ham,  an  onion  stuck  with 
one  or  two  cloves,  some  whole  f)epper,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  little  salt.  When 
tender,  take  out  the  meat,  strain  the  stock, 
and  put  it  on  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
green  p)eas;  boilthem,  and  add  the  veal, 
and  let  them  stew  for  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  the  gristles  in  the  middle,  and  the 
peas  round  them. 

VEAL  BROTH.     See  Broth. 

VEAL,  BROWN  ROLLKLOPS.     Cut 

off  some  thin  slices  from  a  fillet  of  veal,  and 
beat  them.  Take  part  of  the  fat  from  the 
loin  and  kidney  :  mince  it  finely  with  a 
small  bit  of  veal,  and  six  anchovies;  season 
with  salt,  pounded  ginger,  and  mace ;  put 
it  over  the  slices  of  veal,  and  roll  them  up. 
Dip  them  into  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  then  into  grated  bread;  repeat  this  a 
second  time,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  brown 
color  in   clarified  beef  dripping,  then  stew 


them  in  some  good  gravy,  adding  a  little 
walnut  pickle  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine. 

VEAL  CAKE.  Take  some  nice  thin 
slices  of  veal,  and  season  them  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  grated;  have  ready 
some  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced,  and  put  a 
layer  of  these  at  the  bottom  of  a  basia 
or  pan,  then  a  layer  of  veal,  then  some  slices 
of  ham,  over  this  strew  marjoram,  thyme, 
parsley,  shred  fine,  bread  crumbs  and  lemon- 
peel,  chopped  small ;  then  a  layer  of  eggs, 
veal,  ham,  &c.  and  so  continue  till  the  pan 
is  filled;  pour  some  good  gravy  over  the 
whole,  cover  the  pan  with  coarse  brown 
paper,  tie  it  closely  over,  and  set  it  to  bake 
in  a  slow  oven;  an  hour  will  be  sufficient 
to  bake  it;  when  cold,  turn  it  out  upon  a 
dish,  and  serve;  garnish  with  parsley. 

VEAL  CAKE,  io  be  eaten  cold.  Pound 
in  a  mortar  as  much  cold  roasted  lean  veal 
as  will  fill  a  small  mould,  together  with  a 
slice  of  ham,  or  bacon,  a  piece  of  the  crumb 
of  bread  soaked  in  cold  milk,  two  beaten 
eggs,  a  small  bit  of  butter,  the  same  of  shal- 
lot, or  onion ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  mix  all  well  together ;  butter  the  mould, 
fill  it,  and  bake  it  in  an  oven  for  about  aa 
hour;  turn  it  out  when  cold,  and  cut  it  into 
slices.  Garnish  with  pickled  eggs  and  pars- 
ley. 

VEAL  COLD.  Cut  some  cold  veal  into 
thin  slices,  the  size  and  thickness  of  a  half 
crown,  dip  them  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
well  beaten,  cover  them  with  bread  crumbs, 
sweet  herbs,  lemon-peel  shred  fine,  and 
grated  nutmeg.  Put  a  little  fresh  butter  in- 
to a  pan,  make  it  quite  hot,  fry  the  veal  in 
it,  and  when  done,  lay  it  on  a  dish  by  the 
side  of  the  fire;  make  a  little  gravy  of  a 
bone  of  veal,  shake  a  little  flour  into  the 
pan,  stir  it  round,  add  the  gravy  and  a  little 
lemon-juice,  pour  it  over  the  veal,  and  gar- 
nish with  lemon. 

VEAL  CHOPS,  BREADED.      Take 

six  or  seven  handsomely  cut  chops,  season 
them  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  them 
into  melted  butter ;  when  sufficiently  soaked, 
put  them  into  beaten  eggs,  take  them  out, 
and  roll  each  separately  in  bread  crumbs; 
make  the  chops  as  lound  as  you  can  with 
your  hand,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish ;  when 
all  are  breaded,  broil  them  slowly  over  a 
moderate  fire,  that  the  bread  may  not  be  too 
highly  colored.     Serve  with  clear  gravy. 

VEAL,  TO  COLLAR.  Bone  a  broist 
of  veal,  and  beat  it  flat;  cover  the  inside 
with  a  nice  stuffing  moistened  with  eggs; 
roll  it  very  tightly,  bind  it,  and  Ixike  it  in  an 
oven  with   some  weak   stock   in   the  dish. 


VEAL 


232 


VEAL 


Mak«  a  rich  gravy;  strain  and  thicken  it, 
and  pour  it  over  the  veal.  Serve  with  or 
without  forcemeat  balls,  and  garnish  with 
cut  lemon.  It  will  keep  fur  a  long  time  in 
a  pickle  made  with  bran  and  water,  a  little 
salt,  and  vinegar,  poured  cold  over  it. 

VEAL  CONES.  Mince  small  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  cold  veal,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
and  a  slice  of  lean  ham;  pound  them  in  a 
mortar,  and  mix,  in  five  table-spoonfuls  of 
cream,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  pepper,  one  of 
salt,  and  some  grated  lemon-peel.  Make  it 
op  into  cones  about  three  inches  high ;  rub 
them  over  with  an  egg  beaten  up,  sift  grated 
bread  over  tliem,  and  fry  them  of  a  light 
brown  color;  put  fried  bread  crumbs  into 
the  dish,  and  place  the  cones  upon  them,  or 
serve  them  with  a  brown  gravy  instead  of 
crumbs.  jCk>ld  fowl,  turkey,  or  rabbit  make 
good  cones.  Half  the  ingredients  will  be 
sufficient  for  a  corner  dish. 

VEAL,  COLD  DRESSED.  Mince 
finely  the  fat  and  lean  of  cold  roast  veal, 
season  it  with  grated  nutmeg,  lemon-peel, 
pepper,  and  salt;  moisten  it  with  a  little 
rich  white  stock,  and  a  teaten  egg;  butter 
a  pudding,  shape,  put  in  the  mince,  and 
press  it  firmly,  cover  it  closely,  and  set  it 
into  a  pan  of  boiling  water;  let  it  boil  an 
hour  or  two.  Serve  it  with  a  white  gravy 
thickened,  or  when  turned  out  of  the  shape, 
rub  it  over  the  top  with  the  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg;  sift  bread  crumbs  thickly  over,  and 
brown  it  in  a  Dutch  oven;  baste  it  with  a 
little  melted  butter.  Garnish  with  fried 
parsley  or  cut  lemon. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (1)  Let  your  cutlets 
be  about  half  an  inch  thick;  trim  them,  and 
flatten  them  with  a  cleaver;  you  may  fry 
them  in  fresh  butler,  or  good  drippings ;  when 
brown  on  one  side,  turn  them  and  do  tlie 
Other;  if  the  fire  is  very  fierce,  they  must 
change  sides  oftener.  The  time  they  will 
take  depends  on  the  thickness  of  the  cutlet 
and  the  heat  of  the  fire;  half  an  inch  thick 
vrill  take  about  fifteen  minutes.  Make  some 
gravy,  by  putting  the  trimmings  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  little  soft  water,  an  onion,  a  roll 
of  lemon-peel,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  sprig  of 
tliyme  and  parsley,  and  a  bay  leaf;  stew 
over  a  <!low  fire  an  hour,  then  strain  it;  put 
an  ounc^e  of  butter  into  a  slewpan;  as  soon 
a.s  it  is  melted,  mix  with  it  as  much  flour  as 
will  dry  it  up,  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  the  gravy  by  degrees  till 
ft  is  all  mixed,  boil  it  for  five  minutes, 
and  strain  it  through  a  tamis  sieve,  and  put 
it  to  the  cutlets ;  you  may  add  some  brown- 
"  ing,  mushroom,  or  walnut  ketchup,  or  lemon 
pickle,  &c.:  Or,  Cut  the  veal  into  pieces 
about  as  big  as  a  crown-piece,  heat    ihem 


with  a  cleaver,  dip  them  in  eggs  beat  up 
wiih  a  little  salt,  and  then  in  fine  bread 
crumbs;  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  boiling 
lard ;  serve  under  them  some  good  gravy  or 
mushroom  sauce,  which  may  be  made  in  five 
minutes.  Garnish  with  slices  of  ham  or 
rashers  of  bacon,  or  pork  sausages. 

Veal  forcemeat  or  stuffing,  pork  sausages, 
rashers  of  bacon,  are  very  relishing  accom- 
paniments, fried  and  sent  up  in  (he  form  of 
balls  or  cakes,  and  laid  round  as  a  garnish. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (2)  Cut  a  neck  of 
veal  into  cutlets,  or  take  them  off  a  leg. 
Season  two  well-beaten  eggs  with  pounded 
mace,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  finely-chop- 
ped sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme,  and  pars- 
ley; dip  the  cutlets  into  it,  sift  over  them 
grated  bread,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter. 
Serve  with  a  white  sauce,  forcemeat  balls, 
and  small  mushrooms.  Garnish  with  fried 
parsley. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (3)  Cut  a  neck 
of  veal  into  thin  cutlets,  and  beat  them; 
brown  some  butter  with  an  onion  and  some 
parsley  chopped  small.  Dip  the  cutlets  into 
the  butter,  and  then  into  finely  grated  bread, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt;  broil  them 
of  a  brown  color;  mince  the  peel  of  half  an 
orange  pared  very  thin;  add  it  and  a  grate 
of  ginger  to  some  good  thickened  gravy,  and 
pour  it  hot  upon  the  cutlets. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (4)  Cut  them  off 
a  leg,  or  fiom  the  thick  part  of  a  loin  of 
veal;  beat  them  a  little  with  a  rolling-pin, 
and  fry  them  in  butler  of  a  light  brown. 
Take  them  out  of  the  pan,  pour  otf  the  but- 
ter, and  strew  over  them  grated  bread,  sea- 
soned with  minced  parsley  and  lemon  thyme, 
grated  lemon-peel  and  nutmeg,  pepper,  and 
salt.  Put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece 
of  fresh  butter,  and  let  ihem  fiy  slowly  till  of 
a  good  brown.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
good  gravy,  and  a  small  tea-ctipfiil  of  tliick 
cream;  let  it  be  made  very  hot,  frequently 
shaking  the  pan.  Serve  it  garnished  with 
cut  lemon  or  forcemeat  balls,  mushrooms, 
and  false  eggs.  False  eggs  are  made  of  the 
yolks  of  two  hard-boilecl  eggs,  which  are 
rubbed  smooth,  and  then  made  up  with  fresh 
butter  into  the  form  of  small  eggs. 

VEAL  CUTLETS,  VENITIAN.    Cut 

into  neat  cutlets  the  best  part  of  a  neck  of 
veal;  trim  and  flatten  them.  Chop  sepa- 
rately half  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  a  few  shal- 
lots, and  a  little  jmrslev;  stew  these  over  a 
slow  fire,  with  a  small  bit  of  butter  and  a 
little  raeped  fat  bacon.  When  done,  put  in 
the  cutlets,  and  season  them  well  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  let  them  stew  over  a  slow  fire 
till  quite  tender;  skim  off'  the  fat,  and  add 


VEAL 


233 


VEAL 


a  spoonful  of  sauce  tournee,  and  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  beaten  with  a  little  cream,  then 
mix  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  cay- 
enne. 

VEAL,  FILLET,  STEWED.  Bone, 
lard,  and  stuff  a  fillet  of  veal ;  half  roast,  and 
tlien  stew  it  with  two  quarts  of  white  stock, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle  and  one  of 
mushroom  ketchup.  Before  serving,  strain 
the  gravy,  thicken  it  with  butler  rolled  in 
flour,  add  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  and  some 
pickled  mushrooms;  heat  it,  and  pour  it  over 
tlie  veal.  Have  ready  two  or  three  dozen  of 
forcemeat  balls  to  put  round  it  and  upon  the 
top.     Garnish  with  cut  lemon. 

VEAL,  FLORENTINE.  Take  two 
veal  kidneys,  and  mince  them  with  their 
fat,  very  small,  and  mix  it  with  a  few  cur- 
rants, the  yolks  of  four  or  five  eggs,  bailed 
hard,  and  chopped  small,  a  pippin  cut  fine, 
some  bread  crumbs,  candied  lemon-jjeel,  cut 
small,  and  season  with  nutmeg,  cloves,  salt, 
mace,  a  little  mountain  wine,  and  some 
orange-flower  water  ;  line  the  bottom  of  a 
dish  with  a  nice  puff  paste,  put  in  the  above, 
cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  set  it  to  bake 
in  a  slow  oven. 

VEAL  FORCEMEAT.  Of  undressed 
lean  veal  (after  you  have  scraped  it  quite 
fine,  and  free  from  skin  and  sinews),  two 
ounces,  the  same  quantity  of  beef  or  veal 
suet,  and  the  same  of  bread  crumbs;  chop 
fine  two  drachms  of  parsley,  one  of  lemon- 
peel,  one  of  sweet  herbs,  one  of  onion,  and 
half  a  drachm  of  mace,  or  allspice,  beaten  to 
fine  powder ;  pound  all  together  in  a  mortar ; 
break  into  it  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg; 
rub  it  all  up  well  together,  and  season  it  with 
a  little  pepper  and  salt.  This  may  lie  made 
more  savory  by  the  addition  of  cold  boiled 
pickled  tongue,  anchovy,  eschalot,  cayenne 
or  curry  powder,  &c. 

VEAL,FRICANDEAT7.  (1)  Cut  a  piece 
of  veal  from  the  leg,  the  same  in  width  and 
depth,  and  about  eight  inches  in  length. 
Make  a  hole  in  the  under  part,  and  fill  it 
with  forcemeat ;  sew  it  up,  lard  the  top  and 
sides,  cover  it  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and 
then  with  while  paper.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan some  slices  of  undressed  mutton,  three 
onions  and  one  carrot  sliced,  a  bunch  of 
Bweet  herbs,  and  a  quart  of  good  stock ;  put 
in  the  veal,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and  let  it 
stew  for  three  hours.  Take  out  the  veal, 
strain  the  gravy,  and  take  off  all  the  fat; 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  and 
three  of  white  wine ;  IkjII  it  quick  to  a  glaze ; 
keep  the  fi  icaiuleau  over  hot  water  and  cov- 
ered, then  glaze  it,  and  serve  with  the  rest 
20* 


of  the  glaze  poured  round  it,  and  sorrel  sauce, 
in  a  sauce  tureen. 

VEAL,  FRICANDEAU.  (2)  Cut  some 
slices  of  veal,  lard  them  all  through,  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  white  stock, 
and  a  bit  of  ham,  one  onion,  a  little  mace 
and  pepper.  Stew  them  gently  an  hour  and 
a  half;  take  them  out,  strain  the  gravy,  and 
take  off  all  the  fat;  boil  it  up  quickly,  lay  in 
the  fricandeau,  and  stew  them  till  the  liquor 
becomes  like  a  brown  jelly;  lake  care  they 
do  not  burn.  Scald  in  boiling  water  three 
handfuls  of  sorrel,  chop  it,  take  out  the  meat, 
and  make  the  sorrel  hot  in  the  sauce,  and 
serve  the  fricandeau  upon  it. 

VEAL,  FRICANDEAU.  (3)  Chop  venr 
finely  one  pound  of  the  lean  of  a  loin  of  veal, 
and  half  a  pound  of  the  kidney  fat;  season 
it  with  pepper,  salt,  grated  lemon-peel,  tl>e 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  a  finely-shred  an- 
chovy. Soak,  in  boiling  milk,  two  rusks, 
or  biscuits,  and  mix  it  all  well  together; 
make  it  into  balls,  with  a  little  flour.  Fry 
them  of  a  light  brown,  in  butter,  then  stew 
them  in  some  highly-seasoned  gravy,  dish 
tliem  carefully,  and  strain  the  gravy  over 
i  them.     Garnish  with  cut  lemon. 

VEAL,  FRICANDEAU.  (4)  Take  the 
round  or  part  of  the  round  of  a  fillet,  fry  it 
in  butter,  of  a  nice  brown,  with  onions  cut 
in  slices,  and  a  little  garlic,  then  set  it  to 
slew  in  some  very  rich  gravy  or  cuUis:  when 
tender,  take  it  out,  thicken  the  gravy  with 
flour,  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  and  serve 
this  sauce  over  the  veal. 

VEAL  FRITTERS.  Cut  the  remains 
of  a  tender  piece  of  veal  into  small,  thin, 
round  pieces;  dip  these  into  a  good  batter, 
and  fry  them  in  the  usual  way,  in  oil.  When 
done,  drain,  sprinkle  salt  over,  and  serve 
diem. 

VEAL,  HASHED  OR  MINCED.     To 

make  a  hash  cut  the  meat  into  slices; — to 
prepare  minced  veal,  mince  it  as  fine  as 
possible  (do  not  chop  it)  ;  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  veal  or  mutton 
broth,  or  make  some  with  the  bones  and 
trimmings,  as  orderal  for  veal  cutlets,  a  little 
lemon-peel  minced  fine,  a  spoonful  of  milk  or 
cream;  thicken  with  butter  and  flour,  and 
season  it  with  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
pickle,  or  Basil  wine,  or  a  pinch  of  curry 
powder. 

If  you  have  no  cream,  beat  up  the  yolks 
of  a  couple  of  eggs  with  a  little  milk:  line 
the  dish  widi  sippets  of  lightly  toasted  bread. 

Minced  veal  makes  a  very  pretty  dish  put 
into  scollop  shells,  and  bread  crumbed  over. 


VEAL 


234 


VEAL 


and  sprinkled  with  a  little  butter,  and  brown- 
ed in  a  Dutch  oven,  or  a  cheese-toaster. 

VEAL,  KEBOBBED.  Cut  into  thin 
bits  the  size  of  a  crown-piece  some  lean  veal ; 
season  theui  with  tumeric,  |)epper,  and  salt. 
Slice  onions  very  thinly,  and  some  garlic: 
put  the  slices  of  veni  and  onion  upon  a  skewer, 
together  widi  thin  bits  of  pickled  pork.  Fry 
ihem  brown  with  butter,  and  garnish  with 
plenty  of  fried  parsley. 

VEAL,  KNUCKLE,  RAGOUT.  Cut 

a  knuckle  of  veal  into  slices  about  half  an 
inch  thick;  pepper,  salt,  and  flour  them; 
fi-y  them  a  light  brown ;  put  the  trimmings 
into  a  stewpan,  with  the  bone  broke  in  sev- 
eral placet*;  ;*.n  onion  sliced,  a  head  of  cele- 
ry, a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  two  blades 
of  bruised  mace:  pour  in  warm  water  enough 
to  cover  them  about  an  inch ;  cover  the  pot 
close,  and  let  it  stew  vei  y  gently  for  a  couple 
of  hours;  strain  it,  and  then  thicken  it  with 
flour  and  butler  ;  put  in  a  spoonful  of  ketch- 
up, a  glass  of  wine,  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon  ; 
give  it  a  boil  up,  and  strain  into  a  clean 
stewpan  ;  put  in  the  meat,  make  it  hot, 
and  serve  up. 

Obs. — If  celery  is  not  to  be  had,  use  a 
carrot  instead  or  flavor  it  with  celery  seed. 

VEAL  KNUCKLE,  STEWED  WITH 
RICE.  As  boiled  knuckle  of  veal  cold  is 
not  a  ve)y  favorite  relish  w itit  the  generality, 
cut  off  some  steaks  from  it,  which  you  may 
dress  as  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  and  leave 
the  knuckle  no  larger  than  will  be  eaten  the 
day  it  is  dressed.  Break  the  shank  bone, 
M-ash  it  clean,  and  put  it  in  a  large  stewpan 
with  two  ^quarts  of  water,  an  onion,  two 
blades  of  mace,  and  a  lea-s|)oonful  of  salt: 
get  it  on  a  quick  fire ;  when  it  boils,  take 
off  all  the  scum.  Wash  and  pick  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  rice ;  put  it  into  tlie  stewpan 
with  the  meat,  and  let  it  stew  very  gently 
for  about  two  hours:  put  the  meat,  &c.  in  a 
deep  dish,  and  the  rice  round  it.  Send  up 
bacon  with  it,  parsnips,  or  greens,  and  finely 
minced  parsley  and  butter. 

VEAL,  KNUCKLE,  SOUP.  A  knuckle 
of  veal  of  six  pounds,  weight,  will  make  a 
large  tureen  of  excellent  soup,  and  is  thus 
easily  prepared:  cut  half  a  pound  of  bacon 
into  slices  alwut  half  an  inch  thick,  lay  it  at 
tile  bottom  of  a  soup-kettle,  or  deep  stewpan, 
and  on  this  place  the  knuckle  of  veal,  having 
first  chopped  the  bone  in  two  or  three  places ; 
furnish  it  with  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  a 
head  of  celery,  two  large  onions,  with  two 
or  three  cloves  stuck  in  one  of  them,  a  dozen 
<;orns  of  black,  and  the  same  of  Jamaica 
pepper,  and  a  good  bundle  of  lemon  thyme, 
*  winter  savory,  and  parsley.     Just  cover  the 


meat  with  cold  water,  and  set  it  over  a  quick 
fire  till  it  boils;  having  skimmed  it  well, 
remove  your  soup-kettle  to  the  side  of  the 
fire ;  let  il  stew  veiy  gently  till  it  is  quite 
tender,  i.  e.  about  four  hours ;  then  take  out 
the  bacon  and  veal,  strain  the  soup,  and  set 
it  by  in  a  cool  place  till  yon  want  it,  when 
you  must  take  off"  the  fat  from  the  surface  of 
your  liquor,  and  decant  it  (keeping  back  tlie 
settlings  at  the  bottom)  into  a  clean  pan. 

If  you  like  a  thickened  soup,  put  three  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  the  fat  vou  have  taken  oft'  the 
soup  into  a  small  stewpan,  and  mix  it  with 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  pour  a  ladleful 
of  soup  to  it,  and  mix  it  with  the  rest  by  de- 
grees, and  boil  it  up  till  it  is  smooth. 

Cut  the  meal  and  gristle  of  the  knuckle 
and  the  bacon  into  mouthfuls,  and  put  them 
into  the  soup,  and  let  them  get  warm. 

You  may  make  this  more  savory  by  ad- 
ding ketchup,  &c.  Shin  of  beef  may  be 
dressed  in  the  same  way ;  see  Knuckle  of 
Veal  stewed  with  Rice. 

VEAL  LEG  IN  SURPRISE.  Lard 
the  veal  with  slips  of  baf-on,  and  a  little 
lemon-peel  cut  very  thin ;  make  stuffing  the 
same  as  for  a  fillet  of  veal,  only  mix  with  it 
half  a  pint  of  oysters  chopped  small,  and 
stufl"  your  veal  with  this,  and  put  it  to  stew 
with  just  sufficient  water  to  cover  it ;  let  it 
stew  very  gently  till  (juite  tender ;  then  take 
it  up;  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  liquor, 
and  add  some  lemon-juice,  some  mushroom 
ketchup,  die  crumb  of  a  roll  grated  fine,  half 
a  pint  of  oysters,  a  pint  of  cream,  and  a  bit 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour;  let  this  sauce  thick 
en  over  the  fire,  and  serve  it  over  the  veal ; 
garnish  the  dish  with  oysters,  dipped  in 
butter,  and  fried,  and  thin  slices  of  toasted 
bacon. 

VEAL,  MINCED.  Cut  thin  slices  of 
lean  cold  veal ;  mince  ihem  very  finely  with 
a  knife,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  grated 
lemon-peel  and  nutmeg;  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, with  a  little  while  stock  or  water,  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  and  a  little 
mushroom  powder.  Simmer,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil ;  add  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  a  little  milk  or  cream;  put  all  round 
the  dish  thin  sippets  of  bread  cut  into  a 
three-cornered  shape;  or  cover  the  mince 
thickly  with  grated  bread,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  butter,  and  brown 
it  with  a  salamandi'r ;  or  serve  with  poached 
eggs  laid  upon  the  top. 

VEAL  OLIVES.  Cut  thin  slices  off  a 
fillet,  and  flatten  them  with  a  roller;  season 
them  highly  with  pepper,  mace,  salt,  and 
grated  lemon-peel;  put  a  bit  of  fat  into  each 
roll,  and  tie  diem  with  a  thread.  Fry  them 
of  a  li'dit  brown,  and  stew  tlietn   in  some 


VEAL 


235 


VEAL 


white  stock  with  two  dozen  of  fried  oysters, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  pickle  and  some  small  mushrooms. 
Stew  them  nearly  an  hour;  take  off  the 
threads  before  serving. 

Beef  olives  may  be  dressed  in  the  same 
way. 

VEAL  PATTIES.  Mince  some  under- 
done veal  with  a  little  parsley,  one  or  two 
sage  leaves,  a  very  little  onion ;  season  wi.th 
grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg,  |iepper,  and  salt; 
add  some  grated  lean  ham  or  tongue,  moisten 
it  with  some  good  gravy,  heat  it  up,  and  put 
it  into  the  patties. 

VEAL  AND  HAM  PATTIES.  Chop 
about  six  ounces  of  ready-dressed  lean  veal, 
and  three  ounces  of  ham  very  small ;  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter  roll- 
ed into  dour,  half  a  gill  of  cream ;  half  a 
gill  of  veal  stock  ;  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and 
lemon-peel,  some  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  a 
spoonful  of  essence  of  ham  and  lemon-juice^ 
and  stir  it  over  the  Are  •  sometime,  taking 
care  it  does  not  bum. 

VEAL  AND  HAM  PIE.  Take  two 
pounds  of  veal  cutlets,  cut  them  in  middling- 
sized  pieces,  season  with  pepper  and  a  very 
little  salt;  likewise  one  of  raw  or  dressed 
ham  cut  in  slices,  lay  it  alternately  in  the 
dish,  and  put  some  forced  or  sausage  meat 
at  the  top,  with  some  stewed  button  mush- 
rooms, and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  boiled 
hard,  and  a  gill  of  water;  then  proceed  as 
with  rump-steak  pie. 

N.  B. — The  best  end  of  a  neck  is  the  fine 
part  for  a  pie,  cut  into  chops,  and  the  chine 
bone  taken  away. 

VEAL  PIE.  (1)  Cut  a  neck  of  veal  into 
neat  steaks,  season  them  well  with  white 
pepper,  salt,  mace,  and  grated  nutmeg  mix- 
ed; pack  them  closely  into  a  dish,  and  put 
in  half  a  pint  of  white  stock ;  five  hard-boil- 
ed yolks  of  eggs  may  be  added ;  put  pufl^ 
paste  on  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  cover  with 
tlie  same.  Lambs'  tails  may  be  made  into  a 
pie,  with  lamb  chops  seasoned  in  the  same 
manner  as  (he  above. 

VEAL  PIE.  (2)  Cut  into  steaks  a 
loin  or  breast  of  veal,  season  them  highly 
with  pepjjer,  salt,  giaied  nutmeg,  mace,  and 
a  little  lemon-peel  mixed ;  lay  them  into 
the  bottonj  of  a  dish,  and  then  a  few  slices 
of  sweetbreads  seasoned  with  the  spices; 
add  some  oysters,  l()rcemeat  balls,  and  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  egg?!,  half  a  pint  of  white 
stock,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  pickle;  put  puff  |>aste  on 
tlie  edge  of  the  dish,  and  cover  with  the 
same :  bake  it  for  one  hour. 


VEAL  PIE.  (3)  Chop,  but  not  very 
small,  the  meat  of  a  cold  loin  of  veni,  season 
it  with  minced  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg;  add  rather  nfcre 
than  half  a  pint  of  stock  made  with  the 
bones,  thickened  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour,  and  seasoned  with  a  tea-spoonful 
of  lemon  pickle,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
white  wine ;  make  a  paste  of  the  fat  of  tlie 
loin,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  Hour,  rub  it 
together,  and  mix  with  it  a  little  cold  water, 
roll  it  out  two  or  three  times,  line  tlie  sides 
of  tlie  dish,  put  in  the  meat,  and  cover  it. 

VEAL  PIE,  SOLID.  Stew  in  veal 
stock,  till  it  be  perfectly  tender  and  like  a 
jelly,  a  piece  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  with  the 
gristles  adhering  to  it;  let  it  cool,  and  then 
pull  the  meat  and  gristles  into  small  bits; 
butter  a  pie  dish  or  shape,  and  lay  at  regular 
distances  some  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs, 
and  some  of  the  white  part  cut  into  rings 
or  strips ;  then  put  over  some  bits  of  the 
meat  and  gristle,  and  strew  over  il  some 
pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg  mixed,  and 
a  little  of  the  gravy,  and  then  more  eggs, 
with  small  bits  of  beet  root,  green  pickles, 
and  the  red  part  of  a  carrot  cut  to  fancy; 
add  more  meat  seasoning,  and  all  the  gravy; 
when  the  shape  is  full,  put  it  into  an  oven 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  when  quite  cold 
turn  it  out.  If  rightly  done,  it  will  have  a 
glazed  appearance,  and  the  variety  of  col- 
ors look  well  by  candle  light. 

VEAL,  POTTED.  Cut  slices  off  a  leg 
of  veal,  and  season  therh  with  pepper,  pound- 
ed mace,  cloves,  and  salt.  Lay  thin  slices 
of  fresh  butter  between  each  layer  of  meat 
into  a  potting  pan  or  jar;  cover  it  closely, 
and  bake  it  with  bread.  When  it  is  cold, 
pound  the  meat  in  ^  marble  mortar,  pack  it 
closely  into  a  jar,  and  pour  clarified  butter 
over  it. 

VEAL,  COLD,  AN  EXCELLENT 
RAGOUT.  Either  a  neck,  loin,  or  fillet  of 
veal,  will  furnish  this  excellent  ragout  with 
a  very  little  expense  or  trouble. 

Cut  the  veal  into  handsome  cutlets ;  put 
a  piece  of  butter  or  clean  dripping  into  a 
frying-pan ;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  flour  and 
fry  the  veal  of  a  light  brown:  take  it  out, 
and  if  you  have  no  gravy  ready,  make  some 
as  directed  under  sauces,  or  put  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  into  the  frying-pan,  give  it  a 
boil  up  for  a  minute,  and  strain  il  into  a 
basin  while  you  make  some  thickening  in 
the  following  manner:  put  about  an  ounce 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan;  as  soon  as  itmelis, 
mix  with  it  as  much  flour  as  will  diy  it  up; 
stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
gradually  add  to  it  the  gravy  you  made  in 
the  frying-pan;  let   them   simmer  together 


VEAL 


236 


VEG 


for  ten  minutes  (till  thoroughly  incor|)orat- 
ed);  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  a  little 
mace,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  mushroom 
ketchup  or  wine;  strain  it  througl)  a  tamis 
to  the  meat,  and  stew  very  gently  till  the 
meat  is  thoroughly  warmed.  If  you  have 
any  ready-boiled  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices,  and 
put  it  in  to  warm  with  the  meat. 

VEAL  ROLL.  Bone  a  small  breast  of 
veal,  and  spread  over  it  a  rich  and  higiily- 
seasoned  forcemeat.  Cut  four  hard-lxjiled 
eggs  the  long  way  into  four  pieces,  and  lay 
them  in  rows,  with  green  pickles  between 
each  row.  Roll  up  the  veal  tightly,  and 
tew  it;  then  put  it  into  a  cloth,  and  bind  it 
with  tape.  Lay  a  slice  of  ham  over  it,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  together  with  some 
strong  stock,  and  a  little  whole  pepper,  and 
Btew  it  for  three  hours.  Make  a  rich  gra- 
vy, and  boil  it  up  with  a  little  white  wine 
and  lemon-juice  or  lemon-pickle;  po  ir  it 
over  the  veal ;  add  some  egg  and  forcemeat 
balls,  and  garnish  with  cut  green  pickles. 
Thij  dish  is  very  gopd  when  cold. 

VEAL  SAUSAGES.  Take  equal  quan- 
tities of  lean  veal  and  fat  bacon,  a  handful 
of  sage,  and  a  few  anchovies.  Beat  all  in 
a  mortar,  and  season  well  with  pepper  and 
salt;  when  wanted  for  use,  roll  and  fry  it, 
and  serve  either  with  fried  sippets,  or  on 
Stewed  vegetables,  or  white  coUops. 

VEAL  SEMELLES.  Cut  part  of  a 
fillet  of  veal  into  slices  an  inch  thick,  season 
them  with  salt  and  p.;pper,  »id  give  them  a 
few  turns  in  a  little  butter,  with  a  bay  leaf. 
Lay  at  the  Iwttom  of  a  deep  saucepan  a  very 
thin  slice  of  bacon,  and  on  it  one  of  the 
slices  of  veal,  and  continue  to  lay  diem  in 
alternately,  until  the  whole  are  used,  then 
add  a  glass  of  water  and  some  bay  leaves ; 
close  the  saucepan  very  tight,  first  putting 
a  sheet  of  paper  over  tiie  meat ;  stew  it  on 
hot  ashes  for  four  or  five  hours ;  take  care 
to  keep  the  fire  up  to  tlie  same  point  ail  the 
time. 

VEAL  STOCK.  Cut  a  leg  of  veal  and 
some  lean  ham  into  pieces,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan,  with  a  quart  of  water,  some 
carrots,  turnips,  onions,  leeks,  and  celery ; 
stew  them  down  till  nearly  done,  but  do  not 
let  it  color;  then  add  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  beef  stock  to  cover  the  ingredients,  and 
let  it  boil  for  an  hour;  skim  off  all  the  fat, 
and  strain  it ;  a  little  game  slewed  down 
with  the  above  will  greatly  improve  the  fla- 
vor; be  particularly  careful  that  it  does  not 
burn. 

VEAL  SWEETBREADS  ROASTED. 

Trim  off  the  tough  part,  and  blanch  for  thiee 


minutes  in  a  stevvpan  of  water,  with  a  little 
salt,  three  heart  sweeibre-ads,  then  take  them 
out,  and  put  them  info  a  basin  of  cold  water 
till  cool;  have  an  egg  heat  up  in  a  dish,  some 
bread  crumbs,  and  clarified  butter,  run  a 
skewer  through  the  sweetbreads,  and  fasten 
them  on  tiie  spit ;  egg  them  all  over,  shake 
some  bread  crumbs  over,  then  sprinkle  clari- 
fied butter  over,  and  then  bread  crumbs 
again ;  put  them  down  to  roast  again  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  then  take  them  off  tho 
skewer,  and  serve  them  on  a  dish  over  a  little 
butter  sauce,  mixed  with  a  spoonful  of  gravy, 
a  small  bit  of  glaze,  and  a  scjueeze  of  lemon- 
juice;  let  it  be  hot,  but  not  boiling,  and 
tiidioughly  well  mixed  before  it  is  served 
under  the  sweetbreads. 

VEGETABLES.  There  is  nothing  in 
which  the  difference  between  an  elegant  and 
an  ordinary  table  is  more  seen  than  in  the 
dressing  of  vegetables,  more  especially  greens. 
They  may  l)e  e(]nally  as  fine  at  first,  at  one 
place  as  at  anodier;  but  their  look  and 
taste  are  afterward  very  different,  entirely 
from  the  careless  v\'ay  in  which  they  have 
been  cooked. 

They  are  in  greatest  perfection  when  in 
greatest  {.lenty,  i.  e.  when  in  full  season. 

By  season,  I  do  not  mean  diose  early  days, 
that  luxury  in  the  buyers,  and  avarice  in  the 
sellers,  foice  die  vegetable^;  but  that  time 
of  the  year  in  which  by  nature  and  common 
cukute,  and  the  mere  operation  of  the  sun 
and  climate,  they  are  in  most  plenty  and 
perfection. 

As  to  the  quality  of  vegetables,  the  middle 
size  ^^e  preferred  to  the  largest  or  the  small- 
est; they  are  more  tender,  juicy,  and  fiill 
of  flavor,  just  before  they  are  quite  full-grown. 
Freshness  is  their  chief  value  and  excellence, 
and  I  should  as  soon  think  of  roasting  an 
animal  alive,  as  of  boiling  a  vegetable  after 
it  is  dead. 

The  eye  easilv  discovers  if  they  have  been 
kept  too  long;  they  soon  lose  their  beauty  in 
all  respects. 

Roots,  greens,  salads,  &c.  and  the  various 
productions  of  the  garden,  when  first  gatlier- 
e<l,  are  plump  and  firm,  and  have  a  ti-.igrant 
freshness  no  art  can  give  them  ag-ain,  w  en 
they  have  lost  it  by  long  keeping;  though  it 
will  refresh  them  a  little  to  put  them  into 
cold  spring  water  for  sometime  before  they 
are  dressed. 

To  boil  them  in  soft  water  will  preserve 
the  color  best  of  such  as  are  green ;  if  you 
have  only  hard  water,  put  to  it  a  te;i-spoon- 
ful  of  carbonate  of  potash. 

Take  caie  to  wash  and  cleanse  them 
thoroughly  from  dust,  dirt,  and  insects:  this 
re(|uires  great  attention.  Pick  off  all  the 
outjiide  leaves,  trim  them  nicely,  and,  if  not 
(juite  fiesh  galheied  and  have  become  flaccid. 


VE  G 


237 


VEG 


it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  restore  their 
crispness  before  cooking  tliem,  or  they  will 
be  tough  and  unpleasant:  "lay  them  in  a  pan 
of  clean  water,  with  a  handful  of  salt  in  it, 
for  an  hour  before  you  dress  tlieni. 

They  should  always  be  boiled  in  a  sauce- 
pan by  themselves,  and  have  plenty  of  water; 
if  meat  is  boiled  with  them  in  the  same  pot, 
they  will  spoil  the  look  and  taste  of  each  otiier. 
if  you  wish  to  have  vegetables  delicately 
clean,  put  on  your  pot,  make  it  boil,  put  a 
little  salt  in  it,  and  skim  it  perfectly  clean 
before  you  put  in  the  greens,  &c.;  which 
should  not  be  put  in  till  the  water  boils  brisk- 
ly: the  quicker  they  boil,  the  greener  they 
will  he.  When  the  vegetables  sink,  they  are 
generally  done  enough,  if  the  water  has  loeen 
kept  constantly  boiling.  Take  them  up  im- 
mediately, or  they  will  lose  their  color  and 
goodness.  Drain  the  water  from  them 
thoroughly  before  you  send  them  to  table. 
This  branch  of  cookery  requires  the  most 
vigilant  attention. 

If  vegetables  are  a  minute  or  two  too  long 
over  the  fire,  they  lose  all  their  beauty  and 
flavor. 

If  not  thoioughly  boiled  tender,  they  are 
tremendously  indigestible,  and  much  more 
troublesome  during  their  residence  in  tlie 
stomach,  than  under-done  meats. 

Once  for  all,  take  care  your  vegetables 
are  fresh :  for  as  the  fishmonger  often  suffers 
for  the  sins  of  the  cook,  so  the  cook  often 
gets  undeservedly  blamed  instead  of  the 
green-grocer. 

Strong-scented  vegetables  should  be  kept 
apart;  leeks,  or  celery,  laid  among  cauli- 
flowers, &c.  will  quickly  spoil  them. 

Succulent  vegetables  are  best  preserved  in 
a  cool,  shady,  and  damp  place. 

Potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  and  similar 
roots,  intended  to  be  stored  up,  should  never 
be  cleaned  tiom  the  earth  adhering  to  them, 
till  they  are  to  be  dressed. 

They  must  be  protected  from  tlie  action 
of  the  air  and  frost,  by  laying  them  in  heaps, 
burying  them  in  sand  or  earth,  &c.,  or  cov- 
ering them  with  sti-aw  or  mats. 

When  vegetables  are  quite  fresh  gathered, 
they  will  not  require  so  much  boiling,  by  at 
least  a  third  of  the  time,  as  when  they  have 
been  gathered  the  usual  time  of  those  that 
are  brought  to  public  markets. 

Vegetables  are  always  best  when  newly 
gathered,  and  should  be  brought  in  from  the 
garden  early  in  the  morning;  they  will  then 
have  a  fragrant  freshness,  which  they  lose  by 
keeping. 

They  must  be  cleaned  with  the  greatest 
care,  the  outside  leaves  of  every  description 
of  greens  removed,  and  they,  and  all  other 
vegetables,  more  particularly  when  not  re- 
cently gathered,  should  be  laid  for  several 
hours   in   cold   water,  and  well   shaken  to 


throw  out  the  insects.  A  tea-spoonful  of 
salt  should  always  be  put  into  the  water  ia 
which  they  are  to  be  boiled,  and  if  it  is  hard, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  of  tartar,  or  potash, 
may  be  added  to  preserve  the  green  cobr  of 
the  vegetables. 

All,  vegetables  should  be  boiled  quickly, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  spinach,  in  an 
open  vessel,  skimming  them  carefully. 

Kitchen  greens  should  be  kept  in  a  cool 
and  shady  place.  Potatoes,  carrots,  turnips, 
and  beet  root  should  be  stored  up,  without 
being  cleaned  from  the  earth  adhering  to 
them,  in  layers  of  sand,  or  laid  in  heaps,  and 
covered  with  earth  and  straw.  Parsnips  and 
skirrets  not  being  injured  by  frost,  are  gen- 
erally left  in  the  ground,  and  taken  up  as 
wanted.  Onions  are  stored  in  a  warm,  dly 
place,  never  in  a  cellar;  they  are  sometimes 
strung  in  bunches,  and  suspended  from  the 
roof,  and,  more  effectually  to  prevent  their 
growing,  some  people  select  the  finest  bulbs, 
and  singe  the  roots  with  a  hot  iron. 

Herbs  of  all  sorts  should  be  gathered  when 
in  flower,  and  on  a  dry  day,  and  being  well 
cleaned  from  dust  and  dirt,  they  are  tied  up 
in  small  bunches,  and  dried  before  the  fire  in 
a  Dutch  oven.  They  may  then  be  kept  in 
paper  bags  labelled ;  or  rubbed  to  a  powder, 
sifted,  and  put  into  bottles. 

VEGETABLE  ESSENCES.  The  fla- 
vor of  the  various  sweet  and  savory  herbs 
may  be  obtained  by  combining  their  essen- 
tial oils  with  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  in  the 
proportion  of  one  drachm  of  the  former  to 
two  ounces  of  the  latter,  or  by  picking  the 
leaves,  and  laying  them  for  a  couple  of 
hours  in  a  warm  place  to  dry,  and  then  fill- 
ing a  large-mouthed  bottle  with  them,  and 
pouring  on  them  wine,  brandy,  proof  spirit, 
or  vinegar,  and  letting  them  steep  for  four- 
teen days. 

VEGETABLE  MARROW,    Is  fit  for 

use  when  about  the  size  of  a  turkey's  egg. 
After  being  washed  clean,  it  is  put  on  in 
boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt,  and  when 
tender,  it  is  drained  from  the  water,  cut  into 
half,  and  served  on  toasted  bread,  over 
which  some  melted  butter  has  been  poured. 
Or,  after  being  boiled  in  milk  and  water, 
they  may  be  fricasseed  as  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, or  stewed  like  cucumbers. 

VEGETABLES  STEW.  Pick  and 
wash  very  clean  as  much  spinach  as  will 
make  a  dish ;  mince  finely  three  small  on- 
ions, pick  and  clwp  two  handfuls  of  parsley; 
put  all  into  a  saucepan,  with  rather  more 
than  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  bit  of  butter 
dusted  with  flour,  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  the  pan  closely,  stir  it  now  and  then, 
and  when  the  spinach  is  tender,  mash  it 


VEN 


238 


VEN 


smooth,  serve  it  with  slices  of  broiled  ham, 
or  with  sausages. 

VELOUTE.  Take  the  cuttings  and  re- 
mains of  any  joints  of  veal  and  fowl  you 
may  liave  in  the  house,  of  which  take  four 
pounds,  and  put  into  a  large  stevvpan,  with 
some  carrots,  onions,  parsley,  scallions, 
three  bay-leaves,  three  cloves,  and  a  ladle- 
ful  of  stock ;  put  your  stevvpan  on  a  fierce 
fire,  skim  it  well,  and  take  care  that  the 
meat  does  not  stick;  when  sufficiently  re- 
duced, add  as  much  stock  as  will  nearly  fill 
the  stewpan,  salt  it  well;  give  it  a  boil, 
skim  it,  and  then  put  it  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  for  two  hours;  after  which 
strain  it  through  a  tammy.  Make  a  white 
roux,  stir  into  it  for  ten  minutes  a  few 
champignons,  then  pour  on  it,  a  little  at  a 
time,  the  above  liquor;  let  it  boil  up  once, 
skim  it,  and  set  it  again  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half:  take  off  all  the 
fat,  strain  it  again,  and  then  out  it  by  for 
use.  Take  care  that  the  veloute  is  not  in 
the  least  colored,  as,  the  whiter  it  is  tlie 
better. 

VENISON.  The  choice  of  venison 
should  be  regulated  by  the  appearance  of 
the  fat,  which,  wheu  the  venison  is  young, 
looks  thick,  clear,  and  close;  as  it  begins 
to  change  first  towards  the  haunches,  run  a 
knife  into  that  part;  if  tainted  you  will 
perceive  a  rank  smell,  and  it  will  have  a 
green  or  blackish  appearance. 

If  you  wish  to  preserve  it,  you  may  by 
careful  management  and  watching,  keep  it 
for  a  fortnight  by  the  following  method :  wash 
it  well  with  milk  and  water  very  clean,  and 
dry  it  perfectly  with  cloths  until  there  is  not 
the  least  damp  remaining,  tlien  dust  pound- 
ed ginger  over  every  part ;  this  is  a  good 
preventive  against  the  fly.  When  to  be 
dressed,  wash  it  witli  a  little  lukewarm 
water,  and  dry  it.  Pepper  should  also  be 
added  to  keep  it. 

VENISON  COLLOPS.  These  are 
dressed  in  the  same  manner  as  mince  col- 
lops  of  beef,  only  diat,  in  place  of  the  sea- 
soning of  the  collops  of  heef,  they  have  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  some  Port  wine. 

VENISON,  HASHED.  (1)  If  you  have 

enough  of  its  own  gravy  left,  it  is  preferable 
to  any  to  warm  it  up  in :  if  not,  take  some 
of  the  mutton  gravy,  or  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings of  the  joint  (after  you  have  cut  off  all 
the  handsome  slices  you  can  to  make  the 
hash) ;  put  Uiese  into  some  water,  and  stew 
them  gently  for  an  hour ;  dien  put  some  but- 
ter into  a  stew|)an;  when  melted,  put  to  it 
as  much  flour  as  will  dry  up  the  butter,  and 
ptir  it  well  together;  add  to  it  by  degiees 


the  gravy  yon  have  been  making  of  the  trim- 
mings, and  some  red  currant  jelly;  give  it  a 
boil  up;  skim  it;  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  it  is  ready  to  receive  the  venison:  put  it 
in,  and  let  it  just  get  wami:  if  you  let  it 
boil,  it  will  make  the  meat  hard. 

VENISON,  HASHED.  (2)   Warm   it 

in  its  own  gravy ;  if  there  is  no  fat  left,  take 
some  slices  of  mutton  fat,  set  it  on  the  fire 
with  a  little  Port  wine  and  sugar,  and  let  it 
simmer  till  dry ;  then  add  it  to  llie  hash. 

VENISON,  HASHED.  (3)  Take  some 
anchovies,  boil  them  till  they  are  dissolved, 
then  add  some  oysters  with  their  liquor,  a 
little  milk,  some  red  wine,  and  a  little  ketch- 
up; put  in  your  venison,  let  it  warm  in  this, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  serve  it  with  fried 
sippets,  and  the  sauce  &c.  over  it. 

VENISON,  MOCK.  Hang  up,  for 
several  days,  a  large  fat  loin  of  mutton;  then  I 
bone  it,  and  take  off"  all  tlie  kidney  fat,  and 
tlie  skin  from  the  upper  fat;  mix  together 
two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  and  one  ounce 
of  ground  black  pepper.  Rub  it  well  into 
the  mutton ;  pour  over  it  two  or  three  wine- 
glasses of  Port  wine ;  keep  it  covered  with 
the  skin ;  rub  and  turn  it  daily  for  five  days. 
When  to  be  roasted,  cover  it  with  the  skin, 
and  paper  it  the  same  way  as  venison  ia 
done.  Serve  it  with  made  gi"avy,  and  tiie 
same  sauces  as  for  venison. 

VENISON  PASTY.  (1)  Cut  a  neck  or 
breast  into  small  steaks,  rub  them  over  with 
a  seasoning  of  sweet  herbs,  giated  nutmeg, 
pepper,  and  salt;  fry  them  slightly  in  butter; 
line  the  sides  and  edges  of  a  dish  with  puff 
paste,  lay  in  the  steaks,  and  add  half  a  pint 
of  rich  gravy  made  with  the  trimmings  of 
the  venison ;  add  a  glass  of  Port  wine,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  or  tea-spoonful  of 
vinegar ;  cover  the  dish  with  puflf  paste,  and 
bake  it  nearly  two  hours ;  some  more  gravy 
may  be  poured  into  the  pie  before  serving  it. 

VENISON  PASTY.  (2)  Take  a  neck, 
shoulder,  or  breast  of  venison,  that  has  not 
hung  too  long ;  bone  them,  trim  off  all  the 
skin,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  two  inches  square, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  widi  three 
gills  of  Port  wine,  two  onions,  or  a  few 
eschalots  sliced;  some  pepper,  salt,  three 
blades  of  mace,  about  a  dozen  allspice,  and 
enough  veal  broth  to  covei-  it;  put  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  let  it  stew  till  three  parts  done ; 
put  tlie  trinunings  into  another  saucepan, 
cover  it  with  water,  and  set  it  on  a  fire. 
Take  out  the  pieces  you  intend  for  the  pasty, 
and  put  them  into  a  deep  dish  with  a  little 
of  their  liquor,  and  set  it  by  to  cool;  then 
add  the  remainder  of  the  liquor  to  tlie  bono* 


VER 


239 


VIN 


and  trimmings,  and  boil  it  till  the  pasty  is 
l-eady;  then  cover  the  pasty  with  paste,  orna- 
ment the  top,  and  bake  it  for  two  hours  in  a 
glow  oven;  and  before  it  is  sent  to  table, 
pour  in  a  sauce  made  with  the  giavy  the 
venison  was  stewed  in,  strained  and  skimmed 
free  from  fat;  some  pepper,  salt,  half  a  gill 
of  Port,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
flour  and  butter  to  thicken  it. 

VENISON  PIE  OR  PASTY.  All 
kinds  of  meat  intended  for  pies  and  pasties 
must  be  hijfhly  spiced  when  served  hot,  and 
still  more  highly  spiced  when  served  cold ; 
but  tlie  seasoning  must  be  regulated  by  judg- 
ment and  taste.  Take  one  or  two  breasts 
of  venison,  (according  to  the  size  3'ou  wish 
to  make  your  pie  or  pasty),  bone  it  thorough- 
ly, beat  it  very  flat,  and  lard  it  through  and 
through  with  larduns,  well  seasoned  with  all 
sorts  of  spices,  and  sweet  herbs  finely  chop- 
ped ;  roll  it  up  as  tight  as  possible,  and  tie 
it  up  with  strong  twine.  Put  into  a  stewpan 
the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  venison,  with 
carrots,  onions,  parsley,  one  clove  of  garlic, 
thyme,  bay-leaf,  pepper-corns,  and  allspice, 
and  let  all  stew  till  nearly  dry;  fill  it  up  with 
equal  (juanlities  of  l)eef  or  mutton  braise,  and 
water,  which  let  boil  very  gently  till  done, 
then  put  in  the  roll  of  venison;  put  paper  on 
the  top,  cover  very  close,  and  let  it  stew 
gently  with  fire  over  and  under.  When 
sufficiently  done,  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  let 
it  stand  in  the  liquor  until  nearly  cold ;  then 
prepare  a  [Jain  paste  of  four  poundsof  flour  to 
one  pound  of  butter,  the  same  as  for  raised 
pie,  but  instead  of  making  it  stiff,  mix  it  as 
«oft  as  possible;  lay  part  of  this  paste  as 
thick  as  you  well  can  round  the  edge  <»f  the 
dish;  cut  off  the  twine  from  the  venison, 
skin,  and  lay  it  in  the  dish,  and  pour  some 
of  the  gravy  it  h;is  stewed  in ;  put  on  the 
cover,  trim  it  very  neatly,  make  a  hole  in 
the  top,  do  it  over  with  egg,  and  bake  it  in 
a  moderate  oven  {ov  three  or  four  hours; 
reduce  the  remainder  of  the  liquor  it  was 
stewed  in,  and  when  the  pie  is  baked,  pour 
it  in;  serve  it  cold.  The  pasty  can  scarcely 
be  made  too  thick. 

VERMICELLI,  QUEEN'S  Blanch 
alK)ut  a  ([uarter  of  a  pound  of  vermicelli  in 
boiling  water,  diain  it,  and  throw  it  into 
some  rich  well-seasoned  stock  ;  when  tender, 
take  it  out  of  die  soup,  and  put  it  into  the 
tureen;  tliicken  the  soup  with  eight  well- 
beaten  eggs,  mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  pour  it,  when  <j!iite  hot,  upon  the  ver- 
micelli. 

VERMICELLI  IN  MILK.  Boil  the 
quantity  of  milk  yon  may  require,  and  put 
into  it  half  a  pound  of  vermicelli  peeled,  and 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  sugar ;  stir  it  fiequent- 


ly  that  the  vermicelli  may  not  form  a  paste: 
half  an  hour  will  be  long  enough  to  boil  it. 
A  little  almond  milk  may  be  added  when 
ready  for  table. 

VERMICELLI  PUDDING.     (1)  Boil 

a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vermicelli  with,  a 
little  cinnamon,  in  a  quart  of  milk;  in  the 
meantinje  mix  a  (juarter  of  a  pound  of  melt- 
ed butter  with  a  pint  of  cream,  and  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs;  pour  in  the  vermicelli  when 
quite  sfjft ;  add  a  little  flour  and  beef  mar- 
row, and  powder  sugar  to  die  taste ;  beat  all 
up  for  half  an  hour,  tie  it  in  a  floured  cloth, 
and  boil  it. 

VERMICELLI  PUDDING.     (2)  Boil 

four  ounces  of  vermicelli  in  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  until  quite  tender,  with  a  stick  or  two 
of  cinnamon.  Then  add  half  a  pint  of  thick 
cream,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs,  thoroughly  beaten;  lay  the 
above  in  a  dish  and  bake. 

VERMICELLI  SOUP.  Take  as  much 
goyd  stock  as  you  re<]uire  for  your  tureen, 
strain,  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
boils,  put  in  the  vermicelli,  and  let  it  simmer 
for  half  an  hour  by  a  slow  fire,  that  the  ver- 
micelli may  not  burst;  the  soup  ought  not  to 
be  very  thick.  Half  a  pound  is  sufficient 
for  eight  or  ten  persons. 

VINEGAR.  This  is  an  acid  liquor,  pre- 
pared by  a  second  fermentation  from  various 
liquors,  such  as  wine,  cider,  perry,  beer, 
mead,  skimmed  milk,  &c.  But  the  most 
common  method  of  making  it,  in  England, 
is  from  malt,  and  the  process  is  as  follows: — 
infuse  a  quantity  of  malt  in  hot  waier  for  an 
hour  and  a  half,  then  pour  it  into  a  cooler. 
As  soon  as  the  infusion  is  sufficiently  cold, 
put  it  into  deep  tuns,  add  yeast  to  it,  and 
leave  it  to  ferment  for  four  or  five  days ;  after 
which  put  the  liquor  into  banels,  in  a  room 
heated  with  stoves,  so  that  a  moderate  warmth 
m^y  be  kept  up  for  six  weeks,  and  the  fer- 
mentation continue  regularly.  By  the  end 
of  that  time  the  whole  will  l)e  completely 
soured,  and  must  now  be  <;hanged  into  other 
barrels ;  lay  a  tile  on  the  bung-holes  to  keep 
out  the  wet,  but  not  so  close  as  to  prevent  a 
free  circulation  of  air,  and  then  place  them 
in  tiie  open  air  for  four  or  five  months,  ac- 
cording as  the  weather  is  warm  or  otherwise; 
during  the  whole  of  this  jjeriod,  the  fermenta- 
tion proceeds,  and  at  the  enrl,  die  vinegar  is 
nearly  done.  The  next  operation  is  this:  the 
vinegar  is  poined  into  large  vessels,  called 
rapetuns,  to  which  there  are  false  bottoms  cov- 
ered with  rape,  that  is,  the  refuse  of  raisins, 
or  other  fiuit,  from  which  wine  has  been 
made;  fill  one  of  these  tuns  entirely  with 


VIN 


240 


VIN 


the  vinegar,  and  another  alwut  tliree- fourths 
full,  and  every  day  take  a  portion  of  tlie 
liqnor  out  of  the  fullest  barrel,  and  put  it  into 
the  other,  until  the  vinegar  is  in  a  fit  state  to 
be  drawn  off;  when  it  must  be  closely  bar- 
relled. 

Vinegar  may  also  be  made  in  much  smaller 
quantities  for  domestic  purposes ;  the  mate- 
rials of  various  kinds,  witli  the  addition  of 
sugar;  raisins,  currants,  and  ripe  goose- 
berries, however,  are  die  principal;  some- 
times it  is  made  from  brown  sugar,  and  wa- 
ter alone.  'I'he  prof>ortions  are  the  same  as 
those  necessaiy  for  strong  wine;  make  the 
barrel  about  three- fourths  full,  add  a  toast 
covered  vvidi  yeast,  put  in  the  bung  very 
loosely,  and  place  the  barrel  where  it  will 
be  exposed  to  the  sun,  or,  if  it  be  winter, 
near  the  fire.  The  fern>entation  should  be 
moderate  and  constant  till  the  vinegar  is 
complete;  then  draw  if  off  clear,  give  it  a 
boil,  and  when  quite  cold,  strain  and  bottle 
it. 

Vinegar  is  obtained  from  wine,  by  mixing 
widi  d)e  latter  its  own  (lowers,  or  ferment, 
and  its  tartar  reduced  to  powder,  and  put 
into  a  vinegar  or  any  other  cask;  if  the 
latter,  it  must  be  placed  in  a  warm  situation, 
full  of  the  steam  from  vinegar;  in  either  case 
tlie  liquor  should  be  stirred  frequently;  the 
second  fermentation  will  s[)eedily  commence; 
it  will  become  heated,  and  turn  acid  by  de- 
grees, and  in  a  short  time  (he  vinegar  will 
be  produced. 

It  is  commonly  supposed  that  wine  which 
has  become  acid,  will  produce  excellent  vin- 
egar; this,  however,  is  a  mistaken  idea,  for 
the  stronger  and  better  the  quality  of  the 
wine,  the  stronger  and  Ijeiter  will  be  the 
vinegar. 

The  French  have  several  meUiods  of  mak- 
ing vinegar,  which  are  subjoined. 

The  vinegar  makers  of  Orlenns  pour  the 
wine,  of  which  they  intend  to  make  their 
vinegar,  into  casks,  at  the  bottoms  of  which 
are  close  gratings  of  lime  twigs;  these  serve 
to  clarify  the  wine,  as  the  lees  adhering  to 
the  twigs,  leave  the  liquor  perfectly  clear. 
They  then  procure  a  ntimter  of  casks,  each 
containing  a  hundred  gallons,  either  new  or 
which  have  previously  contained  vinegar; 
these  are  set  upright,  and  in  the  top  of  every 
one  is  bored  a  hole,  two  inches  in  diameter, 
these  are  kept  constantly  open:  the  last  men- 
tioned casks  are  called  Mothers;  pour  into 
all  of  them  twenty-five  gallons  of  boiling 
vinegar;  to  this,  in  a  week's  time,  add 
three  g-allons  of  wine,  drawn  from  the  first 
mentioned  casks;  continue  to  add  the  wine, 
at  intervals  of  a  week,  until  the  Mothers 
are  quite  full ;  then  leave  them  for  a  fortiiight, 
and  at  the  end  of  which  period  they  generally 
draw  off  the  vinegar,  taking  care  always  to 
leave  tlie  Mothers  half  full,  at  least,  and 


Uien  to  fill  diem  with  wine  as  before.  Tlie 
method  of  proving  when  the  vinegar  is  fit  for 
use,  is,  by  plunging  a  stave  into  it;  if  on 
taking  it  out,  a  white  line  is  jierceptible  on 
the  end  of  it,  the  vinegar  is  quite  ready. 
Tile  place  wlieie  the  casks  are  kept  should 
be  very  airy,  and  in  the  winter  lime,  by 
means  of  stoves  the  temperature  should  be 
raised  to  eighteen  degrees  of  Reaumur. 

Paris  vinegar  varies  from  tlie  above,  and 
the  process  is  veiy  simple.  A  large  quantity 
of  wine  lees  is  put  into  coarse  sacks,  and 
laid  ill  tui)s,  which  are  placed  one  upon  an- 
other to  form  a  kind  of  press;  by  means  of 
a  screw,  every  drop  of  wine  i^  gradually 
squeezed  from  the  lees;  this  operation  cannot 
be  performed  in  less  time  than  a  week.  The 
wine  thus  extracted  is  put  into  casks;  in 
the  headings  a  hole  is  made,  as  above,  which 
holes  are  left  constantly  open;  in  summer 
time  the  casks  so  filled  arc  placed  in  die  sun, 
and,  generally  speaking,  the  vinegar  is  fit 
for  use  in  a  fortnight.  In  the  winter,  the 
fermentation  will  last  doul>le  the  time,  and 
must  be  assisted  by  artificial  warmth.  It 
sometimes  happens  Uiat  the  liquor  heats  to 
so  great  a  degree  that  the  hand  cannot  be 
borne  in  it;  in  this  case,  the  progress  of 
the  fermentation  must  be  checked  by  adding 
more  wine,  until  it  proceeds  more  regularly. 
When  the  vinegar  is  made,  put  it  into  casks, 
which  have  the  beech  twigs  at  the  bottom, 
as  above  mentioned;  let  it  remain  a  fort- 
night, by  which  time  it  will  lie  sufficiently 
fermented  to  draw  off  into  the  casks  for 
keeping  it. 

Anodier  very  simple  method  is  also  prac- 
ticed in  France;  a  few  quarts  are  drawn 
fiom  a  barrel  of  excellent  vinegar,  and  an 
equal  quantity  of  very  clear  white  wine  is 
put  into  the  barrel,  close  the  bung  lightly, 
and  keep  it  in  a  place  where  the  heat  is 
moderate  and  regular.  In  a  month's  time 
draw  off  the  same  quantity  as  aixjve,  and 
pour  in  an  ecjual  jwrtion  of  white  wine.  A 
barrel  of  good  vinegar  will  thus  afford  a 
constant  supply  for  a  length  of  time  without 
leaving  the  slightest  deixisit. 

A  cask  whi(;h  has  not  contained  vinegar 
before,  should  have  a  quart  of  bi)iling  hot 
vinegar  poured  into  it,  shaken  till  cold,  and 
allowed  to  stand  for  some  hours. 

VINEGAR,  BASIL.  Sweet  basil  is  in 
full  perfection  about  the  middle  of  August. 
Fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  the  fresh 
green  leaves  of  basil  (these  give  inurh  finer 
and  more  flavor  than  the  dried,)  and  cover 
them  with  vinegar,  or  wine,  and  let  them 
steep  for  ten  days:  if  you  wish  a  vciy  strong 
essence,  strain  the  liquor,  put  it  on  some 
fresh  leaves,  and  let  tliem  steep  four  lecn  days 
more. 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  agreeable  addition 


VIN 


241 


VIN 


to  sauces,  soups,  and  to  the  mixture  usually 
made  for  salads. 

It  is  a  secret  the  makers  of  mock  turtle 
may  diank  us  for  telling;  a  table-spoonful 
put  in  when  the  soup  is  finished  will  impreg- 
nate a  tureen  of  soup  with  the  basil  and  acid 
flavors,  at  very  small  cost,  when  fresh  basil 
and  lemons  are  extravagantly  dear. 

The  flavor  of  the  other  sweet  and  savory 
herbs,  celery,  &c.  may  be  procured,  and  pre- 
served in  the  same  manner  by  infusing  them 
in  wine  or  vinegar. 

VINEGAR,  AMERICAN.  Boil  six 
gallons  of  water,  and  add,  while  it  is  hot, 
four  quarts  of  molasses ;  put  it  into  a  tub  to 
cool;  when  milkwarm,  stir  in  a  pint  of 
fresh  yeast;  put  it  into  the  cask,  and  set  it 
by  the  fire  ibr  twenty-four  hours  ;  then  put 
it  in  the  sun,  with  a'bottle  in  the  bung-hole. 
Bottle  it  three  months  afterwards. 

VINEGAR,  BURNET  OR  CUCUM- 
BER. This  is  made  in  precisely  the  same 
manner  as  directed  above.  The  flavor  of 
burnet  resembles  cucumber  so  exactly,  that 
when  infused  in  vinegar,  the  nicest  palate 
would  pronounce  it  to  l)e  cucumber.  This 
is  a  very  favorite  relish  wiUi  cold  meat,  sal- 
ads, &c. 

VINEGAR,  CAMP.  Cayenne  pepper, 
one  drachm,  avoirdupois  weight.  Soy,  two 
table-spoonfuls.  Walnut  ketchup,  four  ditto. 
Six  anchovies  chopped.  A  small  clove  of 
garlic,  minced  fine.  Steep  all  for  a  month 
in  a  pint  of  the  best  vinegar,  frequently  shak- 
ing the  bottle:  strain  through  a  tamis,  and 
keep  ii  in  small  bottles,  corked  as  tightly  as 
possible. 

VINEGAR,  CHILI.  This  is  commonly 
made  with  the  foreign  bird  pepper;  but  you 
will  obtain  a  much  finer  flavor  from  infusing 
fifty  fresh  red  English  Chilies  (cut  in  half,  or 
pounded)  in  a  pint  of  the  l)est  vinegar  for  a 
fortnight,  or  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cayenne 
pepper.  Many  people  cannot  eat  fish  widi- 
out  the  addition  of  an  acid  and  cayenne 
pepper:  to  such  palates  this  will  be  an 
agreeable  relish 

VINEGAR,  CRESS.  Dry  and  pound 
halftan  ounce  of  cress-seed  (such  as  is  sown 
in  the  garden  with  mustard,)  pour  upon  it  a 
quart  of  the  best  vinegar,  let  it  steep  ten 
days,  shaking  it  up  every  day.  This  is  very 
strongly  flavored  with  cress;  and  for  salads 
and  cold  meats,  &c.  it  is  a  great  favorite 
with  many. 

Celery  vinegar  is  made  in  the  same 
manner. 

VINEGAR,  ELDER  FLOWER  AND 
21 


TARRAGON.  Fill  a  quart  bottle  withr 
the  flowers  of  elder,  or  the  leaves  of  tarragon, 
when  it  is  in  flower;  pour  vinegar  upon  . 
tliem,  and  let  them  infuse  for  a  fortnight; 
then  strain  it  Uirough  a  flannel  bag,  and  put 
it  into  small  bottles.  By  the  same  means, 
vinegar  may  be  flavored  with  the  fresh  gath- 
ered leaves  of  any  sweet  herb. 

VINEGAR,  GARLIC.  Cut  small  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  garlic,  bruise  one  nutmeg 
and  three  cloves,  steep  them  in  a  quart  of 
vinegar  for  a  week,  shaking  it  daily ;  then 
strain  and  bottle  it.  Shallot  vinegar  is  made 
in  tlie  same  manner. 

VINEGAR,  GOOSEBERRY.  Gadier 
yellow  gooseberries  when  quite  ripe,  crush 
and  mash  them  well  in  a  tub  with  a  large 
wooden  pestle;  to  every  two  gallons  of 
gooseljerries,  after  being  mashed,  put  two  of 
water;  mix  them  well  together;  let  it  work 
for  three  weeks,  stirring  the  mass  two  or 
three  times  each  day;  then  strain  the  liquor 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  to  every  gallon 
one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one  pound  of 
treacle,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast ; 
let  it  work  for  three  or  four  days  in  the  same 
tub,  which  has  been  well  washed;  then  run 
it  into  iron-hooped  casks.  Let  it  stand 
twelve  months,  and  bottle  it  for  use.  This 
is  a  verj'  strong  vinegar. 

VINEGAR,  HONEY.  Half  a  pound 
of  honey  must  be  put  to  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter, and  the  honey  well  dissolved.  This 
mixture  is  then  exposed  to  the  greatest  heat 
of  the  sun,  without  closing  wholly  the  bung- 
hole  of  the  cask,  which  must  te  merely  cover- 
ed with  coarse  linen,  to  prevent  the  admission 
of  insects.  In  alxjut  six  weeks,  the  liquor 
becomes  acid,  and  changes  to  a  very  strong 
vinegar,  and  of  excellent  quality. 

VINEGAR,  HORSERADISH.  Horse- 
radish is  in  highest  perfection  abcut^^ovem- 
ber.  Pour  a  quart  of  best  vinegar  on  three 
ounces  of  scraped  horseradish,  an  ounce  of 
minced  eschalot,  and  one  drachm  of  cay- 
enne; let  it  stand  a  week,  and  you  will  have 
an  excellent  relish  for  cold  beef,  salads,  &c. 
costing  scarcely  any  thing.  A  portion  of 
black  pepper  and  mustard,  celery  or  cress- 
seed,  may  be  added  to  the  above. 

VINEGAR,  RASPBERRY.  The  best 
way  to  make  this,  is  to  pour  three  pints  of 
the  best  white  wine  vinegar  on  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  fresh-gathered  red  raspberries  in  a 
stone  jar,  or  china  bowl  (neither  glazed 
earthenware,  nor  any  metallic  vessel,  must 
be  used ; )  the  next  day  strain  the  liquor  over 
a  like  qnantity  of  fresh  raspberries;  and  the 
day  following  do  the  same.     Then  drain  off 


VOL 


242 


WAF 


the  liquor  without  pressing,  and  pass  it 
through  a  jelly-bag  (previously  wetted  with 
plain  vinegar)  into  a  stone  jar,  with  a  pound 
of  pounded  lump  sugar  to  each  pint.  When 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  stir  it  up,  cover  down 
the  jar,  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan  of  water, 
and  keep  boiling  for  an  hour,  taking  off  the 
scum ;  add  to  each  pint  a  glass  of  brandy, 
and  l)oltle  it:  mixed  in  about  eight  parts  of 
water,  it  is  a  very  refreshing  and  delightful 
Hummer  drink.  An  excellent  cooling  bever- 
age to  assuage  thirst  in  ardent  fevers,  colds, 
and  inflammatory  complaints,  &c.  and  is 
agreeable  to  most  palates. 

VINEGAR  FOR  SALADS.  Take  of 
tarragon,  savory,  chives,  eschalots,  three 
ounces  each;  a  handful  of  the  tops  of  mint 
and  balm,  all  dry  and  pounded ;  put  into  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle,  with  a  gallon  of  best 
vinegar;  cork  it  close,  set  it  in  the  sun,  and 
in  a  fortnight  strain  ofl^,  and  squeeze  die 
herbs ;  let  it  stand  a  day  to  gettle,  and  then 
strain  it  through  a  filtering  bag. 

VOL-AU-VENT.  (1)  Cut  some  cold 
turkey  or  veal  into  small  thin  slices,  season 
it  with  dried  lemon-peel  grated,  pepper, 
pounded  mace,  and  salt ;  add  one  anchovy, 
some  garlic  and  onion  pounded,  also  a  little 
good  gravy,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle, 
one  of  white  wine,  and  an  ounce  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour;  then  make  it  quite  hot,  but 
do  not  ftllovv  it  to  boil,  and  serve  it  in  the 
pi-epju-ed  vol-au-vent.  The  gravy  may  be 
made  with  the  bones,  or  a  little  cream,  and 
the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  may  be  substituted 
for  the  cream. 

VOL-AU-VENT.  (2)  In  opening  the 
oystei*s,  separate  them  from  the  licjuor,  which 
must  be  strained;  take  oft'  the  beards,  and 
add  to  them  the  liquor,  togetlier  with  some 
white  stock,  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
two  or  three  blades  of  mace,  a  bit  of  lemon- 
peel,  pepper,  and  salt ;  simmer  them  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes,  and  a  little  before  putting 
them  into  the  vol-au-vent,  pick  out  the  lemon- 
)X"-'I,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  white  wine,  and 
three  of  good  cream,  and  make  it  quite  hot. 
To  make  oyster  patties,  when  they  are  to  be 
hoarded,  cut  them  into  three  or  four  bits, 
and  prepare  them  in  the  same  manner. 

VOL-AU-VENT.  (3)  Rollofl^tait  paste, 
till  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick:  then, 
with  a  tin  cutter  made  for  that  purpose 
(about  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the  dish  you 
intend  sending  to  table,)  cut  out  the  shajx;, 
and  lay  it  on  a  baking-plate  with  paper; 
rub  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg;  roll  out  "^ood 
puflT  paste  an  inch  thick,  stamp  it  with  the 
Kxtae  cutter,  and  lay  it  on  the  tart  paste; 
then  take  a  cutter   two  sizes  smaller,  and 


press  it  in  the  centre  nearly  tlirough  tlie  puff 
paste;  rub  the  top  with  yolk  of  egg,  and 
bake  it  in  a  quick  ovevi  about  twenty  minutes, 
of  a  light  brown  color:  when  done,  take  out 
the  paste  inside  the  centre  mark,  preserving 
the  top,  put  it  on  a  dish  in  a  warm  place, 
and  when  wanted,  fill  it  with  a  white  frica- 
see  of  chicken,  rabbit,  ragout  of  sweetbread, 
or  any  other  entree  you  wish. 

VOLDRON .  Melt  eleven  ounces  of  fi-esh 
butter  in  a  brass  pan,  and  when  quite  hot, 
add  the  same  quantity  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
and  eight  well-beaten  eggs;  stir  constantly 
for  six  or  eight  minuies,  and  put  it  into  a 
dish;  the  following  day,  mix  with  it  a  wine 
glass  of  orange-flower  water;  of  citron, 
orange,  and  lemon-peel,  cut  fine,  half  a 
pound;  butter  a  pudding  dish,  and  lay  into 
the  bottom  a  sheet  of  white  paper  buttered, 
then  put  in  the  voldron,  and  bake  it  for 
twenty  minutes;  turn  it  out,  ornament  it 
with  cut  citron  and  orange-peel,  and  serve 
it  in  a  silver  or  glass  dish. 


W. 

WAFERS.  Take  a  pint  of  good  cream, 
half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
powder  sugar,  and  two  drachms  of  orange- 
flower  water.  Beat  the  cream  with  the 
flour,  a  little  at  a  time,  until  both  are  mixed 
perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  lumps,  then 
add  the  other  articles;  and  as  much  more 
cream  as  will  make  the  paste  nearly  as  thin 
as  milk;  make  the  iron  hot,  dip  a  feather  in 
some  melted  butter,  and  rub  the  iron  over 
with  it;  put  on  the  iron  about  a  spoonful 
and  a  half  of  the  paste,  press  tliem  a  little 
gently,  and  place  the  iron  on  a  stove ;  open 
the  iron  *5i  little  fiequently,  to  see  if  it  be 
done;  when  one  side  is  baked,  turn  the  iron, 
and  do  the  other.  The  wafers  should  only 
be  lightly  colored.  Take  them  from  the 
mould  carefully  with  a  knife. 

WAFERS,  GERMAN.  Take  seven- 
teen ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and  half  a  pint  of 
good  yeast,  which  make  into  a  paste,  witli 
as  much  warm  milk  as  will  make  it  run  from 
the  spoon  freely,  without  being  too  clear; 
then  put  it  into  a  warm  place.  When  it  has 
risen  well,  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  fourteen 
eggs  well  Ijeaten,  the  whites  whipped  to  a 
snow,  and  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons. 
The  whole  being  well  mixed,  pour  over  it 
seventeen  ounces  of  fiesh  butter  melted,  but 
not  too  hot ;  stir  it  gently  wiUi  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  put  the  preparation  again  into  a 
warm  place  to  rise  a  second  time;  when  it 
has  risen  sufficiently,  and  your  pan  quite  hot, 
rub  tlie  latter  witli  butler,  fill  it  witli  the 


WAL 


243 


WAL 


i't  set  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  fry  your 
wafers;  make  both  sides  equally  brown; 
when  done,  sprinkle  them  with  powder  sugar 
(and  cinnamon,  if  you  like),  and  serve  them 
hot.  Be  careful  in  taking  out  the  paste  to 
fill  the  pan,  not  to  disturb,  nor  to  plunge  the 
spoon  into  the  preparation,  when  not  using 
it;  the  upper  part  of  the  paste  should  be 
taken  off  very  gently,  and  the  spoon  laid 
across  the  top  of  the  vessel ;  if  these  precau- 
tions be  not  attended  to,  the  good  appear- 
ance of  the  wafers  will  be  desti'oyed. 

WAFERS,  ITALIAN.  Talce  eight 
eggs,  fourteen  ounces  of  powder  sugar,  a 
pound  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  cream,  the  same 
of  milk,  an  ounce  of  orange  flowers,  and  the 
rind  of  a  lemon  grated.  Beat  the  eggs  with 
the  sugar  and  flour  first ;  then  add  the  cream, 
milk,  and  other  materials,  by  degrees;  mix 
them  well,  and  take  care  there  are  not  the 
slightest  lumps.  Make  the  wafers  as  di- 
rected. 

WALNUTS.  Make  a  brine  of  salt  and 
water,  in  the  proportion  of  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water ;  put  the 
walnuts  into  this  to  soak  for  a  week;  or  if 
you  wish  to  soften  them  so  that  they  may 
be  soon  ready  for  eating,  run  a  larding 
pin  tlirough  them  in  half  a  dozen  places — 
this  will  allow  the  pickle  to  penetrate,  and 
they  will  be  much  softer,  and  of  better  fla- 
vor, and  ready  much  sooner  than  if  not  per- 
forated :  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  such 
brine,  and  give  tliem  a  gentle  simmer ;  put 
them  on  a  sieve  to  drain;  then  lay  them  on 
a  fish  plate,  and  let  them  stand  in  tlie  air  till 
they  turn  black — this  may  take  a  couple  of 
days;  put  them  into  glass,  or  unglazed  stone 
jars;  fill  these  about  three  parts  with  the 
walnuts,  and  fill  them  up  with  the  following 
pickle. 

To  each  quart  of  the  strongest  vinegar  put 
two  ounces  of  black  pepper,  one  of  ginger, 
same  of  eschalots,  same  of  salt,  half  an  ounce 
of  allspice,  and  half  a  drachm  of  cayenne. 
Put  these  into  a  stone  jar ;  cover  it  with  a 
bladder,  wetted  with  pickle,  tie  over  that 
some  leather,  and  set  the  jar  on  a  trivet  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  three  tfeys,  shaking  it 
up  three  times  a  day,  and  then  pour  it  while 
hot  to  the  walnuts,  and  cover  them  down  with 
bladder  wetted  with  the  pickle,  leather,  &c. 

WALNUTS   AND   BUTTERNUTS. 

Gratlier  them  for  pickling  when  the  head  of 
a  pin  will  pierce  them  easily;  run  a  large 
needle  through  them  here  and  there,  or  score 
them  on  one  side  with  a  knife;  lay  them 
into  a  brine  of  salt-and-water  for  twelve 
days,  changing  the  brine  twice  in  that  time; 
strain,  and  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  sprinkle 
a  little  salt  over  them.    Boil  four  quarts  of 


vinegar  for  a  hundred  walnuts,  allowing  to 
each  quart  one  ounce  of  whole  pepper,  and 
one  of  ginger,  half  an  ounce  each  of  sliced 
nutmeg  and  whole  allspice,  a  table-spoonfiil 
of  mustard  seed,  and  one  of  scraped  horse- 
radish, one  head  of  garlic,  or  a  small  onion; 
pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  nuts,  and  put  a 
plate  on  the  jar;  when  cold,  tie  it'  closely 
down.  After  the  nuts  are  used,  the  liquor 
may  be  boiled,  strained,  and  bottled,  to  use 
as  a  pickle. 

WALNUT  KETCHUP.  (1)  Thorough- 
ly well  bruise  one  hundred  and  twenty  young 
walnuts;  put  to  them  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  salt,  and  a  quart  of  good  wine  vin- 
egar; stir  them  every  day  for  a  fortnight; 
then  strain  and  squeeze  the  liquor  from  thera 
through  a  cloth,  and  set  it  aside;  put  to  the 
husks  half  a  pint  of  vinegar,  and  let  it  stand 
all  night;  then  strain  and  squeeze  them  as 
before,  adding  the  liquor  which  is  obtained 
from  tliem  to  what  was  put  aside  the  preced- 
ing day,  and  add  to  it  one  ounce  and  a 
quarter  of  whole  black  pepper,  forty  cloves, 
half  an  ounce  of  nutmegs  bruised,  or  sliced, 
half  an  ounce  of  ginger,  and  five  drachms  of 
mace,  and  boil  it  for  half  an  hour;  tlien 
strain  it  off  from  the  spices,  and  bottle  it  for 
use. 

WALNUT  KETCHUP.  (2)  Take  six 
half-sieves  of  green  walnut-shells,  put  them 
into  a  tub,  mix  them  up  well  with  common 
salt,  (from  two  to  three  pounds,)  let  them 
stand  for  six  days,  frequently  beating  and 
mashing  them;  by  this  time  the  shells  be- 
come soft  and  pulpy ;  then  by  banking  it  up 
on  one  side  of  the  tub,  and  at  the  same  time 
by  raising  the  tub  on  that  side,  the  liquor 
will  drain  clear  off  to  the  other ;  then  take 
that  liquor  out:  tlie  mashing  and  banking- 
up  may  be  repeated  as  often  as  liquor  is 
found.-  The  quantity  will  be  about  six 
quarts.  When  done,  let  it  be  simmered  in 
an  iron  boiler  as  long  as  any  scum  arises; 
then  bruise  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ginger,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  allspice,  two  ounces  of 
long  pepper,  two  ounces  of  cloves,  with  the 
above  ingredients;  let  it  slowly  boil  for  half 
an  hour ;  when  bottled,  let  an  equal  quantity 
of  the  spice  go  into  each  bottle ;  when  cork- 
ed, let  the  bottles  be  filled  quite  up:  cork 
them  tight,  seal  them  over,  and  put  them 
into  a  cool  and  dry  place  for  one  year  before 
tliey  are  used. 

WALNUT  KETCHUP,  FOR  FISH 
SAUCE.  Take  a  quart  of  walnut  pickle, 
add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  anchovies 
and  three-quai'ters  of  a  pint  of  red  Port,  arid 
let  it  boil  till  reduced  to  one-third;  then 
strain  it,  and  when  Qold,  put  it  into  small 
bottles,  and  keep  them  closely  corked. 


WEL 


244 


WHI 


.  WALNUT  PICKLE.  Put  any  quanti- 
ty of  the  outside  sliells  or  green  rinds  of 
npe  walnuts  into  a  tub  in  which  there  is  a 
tap-hole;  sprinkle  them  with  water,  raise 
the  tub  on  one  side,  that  it  may  stand  in  a 
sloping  direction,  place  another  vessel  under 
it  to  receive  llie  juice  as  it  drops  from  the 
tap-hole ;  this  it  will  soon  begin  to  do ;  and, 
when  a  sufficient  quantity  has  been  obtained, 
to  one  gallon  of  this  black  liquor  add  two 
large  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  large  onion, 
a  stick  of  horseradish,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  two  bay  leaves,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice  and  of 
bruised  ginger.  Boil  it  slowly  for  twenty 
minutes;  strain  it,  and,  when  cold,  stir  it 
and  bottle  it  for  use,  putting  the  spice  into 
the  bottles. 

WALNUTS,  TO  PICKLE.  Gather 
the  nuts  before  the  inside  shell  is  hard,  which 
may  be  known  by  trying  them  wifli  a  pin; 
lay  them  into  salt  and  water  nine  days, 
changing  the  liquor  every  three  days;  then 
take  them  out,  and  dry  them  in  the  air  on  a 
sieve  or  mat;  they  should  not  touch  each 
other,  and  they  should  be  turned,  that  every 
side  may  become  black  alike;  then  put 
them  into  a  jar.  When  half  the  nuts  are 
in,  put  in  an  onion,  witli  about  thirty  cloves 
stuck  into  it.  and  add  the  rest  of  the  nuts. 
To  one  hundred  walnuts  allow  half  a  pint 
of  mustard  seed,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
mace,  half  an  ounce  of  peppercorns,  and 
sixty  bay  leaves ;  boil  all  the  spice  in  some 
good  common  vinegar,  and  pour  it  boiling 
upon  tlie  nuts,  observing  that  they  are  en- 
tirely covered ;  stop  the  mouth  of  the  jar 
widi  a  cloth,  and  when  cold,  cover  it  with 
bladder  or  leather.  In  about  six  weeks 
they  will  be  fit  for  use,  when  they  siiould  \ie 
examined,  and  if  they  have  absorbed  the 
vinegar  so  much  as  to  leave  any  of  the  nuts 
dry,  more  should  be  added,  but  it  need  not 
be  boiled. 

WATER  SOUCHY.  Make  a  stock 
witli  three  or  four  flounders,  boiled  in  three 
quarts  of  water,  two  onions,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  till  they  are  soft  enough  to  pulp 
through  a  sieve  widi  the  liquor  they  were 
boiled  in  ]  then  season  it  with  pep|)er,  salt, 
and  some  parsley  chopped,  and  boil  in  it  a 
few  flounders,  with  the  brown  skin  taken 
off,  some  nicely  cleaned  perch  or  tench. 
Serve  in  a  tureen,  and  with  slices  of  bread 
and  butter  to  eat  with  it. 

WELSH  RABBIT.  Pare  the  crust  off 
a  slice  of  bread,  toast  it  nicely,  divide  it  in 
two,  butter  it,  and  lay  upon  each  half  a  thin 
slice  of  cheese  which  has  been  toasted  in  a 
Dutch  oven ;  if,  when  put  upon  the  toast,  it 
ia  not  sufficiently  browned,  hold  a  salaman- 


der, or  hot  shovel,  over  the  top.    Serve  it 
very  hot. 

WHEY.  (1)  Make  a  pint  of  milk  boil; 
put  to  it  a  glass  or  two  of  white  wine ;  put  it 
on  the  fire  till  it  just  boils  again ;  then  set  it  on 
one  side  till  the  curd  has  settled ;  pour  off 
the  clear  whey,  and  sweeten  it  as  you  like. 

Cider  is  often  substituted  for  wine,  or 
half  the  quantity  of  vinegar  that  we  have 
ordered  wine.  When  there  is  no  fire  in 
the  sick  room,  this  may  be  put  hot  into  a 
bottle,  and  laid  between  the  bed  and  mat- 
tress; it  will  keep  warm  several  hours. 

WHEY.  (2)  Put  a  very  small  portion 
of  rennet  into  a  quart  of  milk,  and  let  it 
stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  turned ; 
then  serve  it  in  a  dish,  with  sugar  and  a 
little  nutmeg,  grated,  and  strewed  over,  or 
strain  the  liquor  carefully  from  the  curd, 
and  serve  quite  clear. 

WHEY,  WHITE  WINE.  Boil  a 
pint  of  milk,  and  when  it  rises  in  the  pan, 
pour  in  one  glass  of  sherry  and  one  of  cur- 
rant wine ;  let  it  again  boil  up,  take  it  off 
the  fire,  and,  when  it  has  stood  a  few  min- 
utes, remove  the  curd,  pour  off  die  clear 
whey,  and  sweeten  it. 

WHIM  WHAM.  Sweeten  a  quart  of 
cream,  and  mix  with  it  a  tea-cupful  of  white 
wine,  and  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon ;  whisk 
it  to  a  froth,  which  drain  upon  the  back  of  a 
sieve,  and  put  part  into  a  deep  glass  dish ; 
cut  some  Naples  biscuit  as  thin  as  jx)ssible, 
and  put  a  layer  lightly  over  the  froth,  and 
one  of  red  cm-rant  jelly,  then  a  layer  of  the 
froth,  and  one  of  the  biscuit  and  jelly ;  finish 
with  the  froth,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the 
cream  into  the  dish,  and  garnish  with  citron 
and  candied  orange-peel  cut  into  straws. 

WHITE  BEET,  LEAVES.  Pick  and 
wash  tliem  clean,  put  them  on  in  boiling 
water  with  a  little  salt,  cover  the  saucepan, 
and  boil  them  longer  than  spinach ;  drain  off 
the  water,  and  beat  them  as  spinach,  with  a 
bit  of  butter  and  a  little  salt. 

WHITINGS.  In  choosing  whitings,  be 
careful  that  the  skin  has  a  silvery  appear- 
ance, that  the  body  is  firm,  and  the  fins 
stiff;  these  are  sure  proofs  of  its  fresh- 
ness. 

WHITINGS,  ENGLISH  WAY.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  two  spoonfuls  of  oil,  half  a 
lemon  sliced  (the  pips  and  rind  taken  off), 
salt,  and  pepper,  two  glasses  of  white  wine, 
the  same  of  water,  and  let  them  boil  nearly 
a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  put  the  whitings, 
properly  cleaned,  cook  them  in  the  above. 


WH 


245 


WOO 


blanch  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  beat  it  with 
tlie  back  of  a  knife,  put  it  with  parsley, 
shallots,  and  two  glasses  of  champagne,  into 
a  stewpan  ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  then  add 
some  butter,  rolled  in  flour,  salt,  and  pepper; 
stir  it  over  the  fire  till  smooth,  then  serve. 

WHITINGS,  FRIED.  (1)  Take  as  many 
whitings  as  you  may  require;  cleanse,  scale, 
and  wipe  them  dry ;  then  run  them  through 
the  eyes  with  a  skewer,  soak  them  well  in 
milk ;  flour,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  color. 
Serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

WHITINGS,  FRIED.  (2)  Skin  them, 
preserve  the  liver,  and  fasten  their  tails  to 
their  mouths;  dip  them  in  egg,  then  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  or 
split  them,  and  fry  them  like  fillets  of  soles. 
A  three-quart  stewpan,  half  full  of  fat,  is  the 
best  utensil  to  fry  whitings.  They  will  be 
done  enough  in  about  five  minutes;  but  it 
will  sometimes  require  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
to  drain  the  fat  from  them  and  dry  them  (if 
the  fat  you  put  them  into  was  not  hot  enough), 
turning  them  now  and  then  with  a  fish- 
slice. 

WHITE  FISH  AND  SAUCE.  Make 
a  rich  gravy  with  a  bit  of  veal,  the  heads  and 
fins  of  four  or  five  haddocks,  three  or  four 
onions,  some  parsley,  a  little  cayenne,  black 
pepper  and  salt,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  half 
the  peel,  q  table-spoonful  of  ketchup,  half  a 
pint  of  white  wine,  and  two  quarts  of  water ; 
simmer  them  for  an  hour,  strain,  and  put  to 
it  the  meat  of  a  lobster  or  crab  minced,  and 
forcemeat  balls;  thicken  it  with  half  a  pint 
of  cream,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten,  and 
a  pint  of  butter  kneaded  in  flour.  Have 
ready  boiled  ihree  haddocks  skinned  and 
without  their  heads,  pour  the  sauce  over 
them  in  a  deep  dish.  Make  the  forcemeat 
balls  of  a  small  boiled  haddock  finely  minc- 
ed, grated  bread  crumbs,  butter,  pepper, 
salt,  grated  nutmeg,  and  pai-sley ;  bind  them 
with  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten,  and  fry 
them  in  fresh  lard  of  a  liglu  brown. 

WHITE  POT.  Beat  up  the  yolks  of 
eight,  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  with  two 
quarts  of  new  milk,  a  little  rose  water,  a 
nutmeg,  grated,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sugar ;  cut  a  small  roll  into  very  thin 
slices,  lay  them  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the 
milk,  &c.  over  them ;  put  a  bit  of  butter  on 
the  top,  and  set  it  in  the  ovenj  it  will  take 
half  an  hour  baking. 

WHITE  ROUX,  or  IVhite  Thickening 
for  Sauces  and  Made  Dishes.  Melt 
gradually,  over  a  slow  fire,  a  good  piece  of 
butter,  and  dredge  in  a  sufficiency  of  flour  to 
make  it  like  a  thin  paste ;  keep  stirring  it 
21* 


for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  put  it  into  ^ 
a  small  jar  to  be  kept  for  use. 

WHITE  SAUCE.     See  Bechamel. 

WIDGEONS  AND  TEAL,  Are  dressed 
exactly  as  the  wild  duck ;  only  that  less  time 
is  requisite  for  a  widgeon,  and  still  less  for 
a  teal. 

WILD  DUCKS.  For  roasting  a  wild 
duck,  you  must  have  a  clear,  brisk  fire,  and 
a  hot  spit ;  it  must  be  browned  upon  the  out- 
side, without  being  sodden  within.  To  have 
it  well  frothed  and  full  of  gravy  is  the  nicety. 
Prepare  the  fire  by  stirring  and  raking  it 
just  before  the  bird  is  laid  down,  and  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  will  do  it  in  the  fashion- 
able way;  but  if  you  like  it  a  little  more 
done,  allow  it  a  few  minutes  longer;  if  it  is 
too  much,  it  will  lose  its  flavor. 

WINE  (MADEIRA)  SAUCE.  Take  a 
tea-spoonful  of  flour,  and  a  preserved  green 
lemon,  cut  into  dice,  mix  them  with  a  glass 
of  Madeira  wine,  and  a  little  consomme, 
add  an  ounce  of  batter,  some  salt  and  nut- 
meg ;  set  tliese  on  a  very  hot  stove  to  boil 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  take  it  oflf, 
put  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  set  it 
agaih  on  the  fire,  stirring  constantly  till  the 
butter  is  melted. 

WINTER  HOTCH-POTCH.      Take 

the  best  end  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton; 
cut  it  into  neat  chops ;  cut  four  carrots,  and 
as  many  turnips  into  slices;  put  on  four 
quarts  of  water,  with  half  the  carrots  and 
turnips,  and  a  whole  one  of  each,  with  a 
pound  of  dried  green  peas,  which  must  be 
put  to  soak  the  night  l)efore;  let  it  boil  two 
hours,  then  take  out  the  whole  carrot  and 
turnip;  bruise  and  return  them;  put  in  the 
meat,  and  the  rest  of  the  carrot  and  turnip, 
some  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  slowly  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour;  a  short  tinie  before 
serving,  add  an  onion  cut  small  and  a  head 
of  celery, 

WOODCOCKS.  (1)  The  greatest 
possible  care  should  be  taken,  in  picking  of 
these  birds,  to  handle  them  as  little  as  pos- 
sible, on  account  of  the  skin  being  so  par- 
ticularly tender,  that  when  broken  it  spoils 
the  beauty  of  the  bird.  When  picked,  cut 
off*  the  pmions  at  the  first  joint,  press  the 
legs  close  to  the  side,  through  which,  and 
the  body,  pierce  the  Ixjak  of  the  bird ;  then 
cross  the  Jeet,  and  lay  a  slice  of  bacon  over 
the  breast.  Woodcocks  and  snipes  may  be 
dressed  according  to  the  same  rules. 

WOODCOCKS.  (2)  Take  a  pound 
of  lean  beef,  cut  it  into  pieces,  and  put  it 


woo 


246 


TEA 


into  a  saiiceisan,  with  two  quarts  of  water, 
an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  two  blades  of 
mace,  and  some  whole  pepper,  boil  all  these 
together  till  reduced  to  half;  then  strain  it 
off  into  another  saucepan :  draw  the  wood- 
cocks, and  lay  the  trail  in  a  plate ;  put  the 
woodcocks  into  the  gravy,  and  let  them  boil 
in  it  for  twelve  minutes;  while  they  are 
boiling,  mince  the  trail  and  liver  very  small ; 
put  them  into  a  small  saucepan,  with  a  lit- 
tle mace ;  add  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  the 
gravy  the  woodcocks  are  boiled  in;  then 
take  the  crumb  of  a  stale  roll,  rub  it  fine 
into  a  dish  placed  before  the  fire,  and  put  to 
tlie  trail,  in  the  small  saucepan,  half  a  pint 
of  red  port,  a  bit  of  butter,  rolled  in  flour, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  shake  it  round  till  the 
butler  is  melted;  tlien  put  in  the  bread- 
crumbs, and  shake  tlie  saucepan  round ;  lay 
die  woodcocks  in  the  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
over  them,  and  serve. 

WOODCOCKS.  (3)  Woodcocks  should 
not  be  drawn,  as  the  trail  is  by  the  lovers 
of  "  haul  gout"  considered  a  "  bonne 
bouchej"  truss  their  legs  close  to  the  body, 
and  run  an  iron  skewer  through  each  thigh, 
close  to  the  body,  and  tie  them  on  a  small 
bird  spit;  put  them  to  roast  at  a  clear  fire; 
cut  as  many  slices  of  bread  as  you  have 
birds,  toast  or  fiy  them  a  delicate  brown, 
and  lay  them  in  the  diipping-|)an  under  the 
birds  to  catch  the  trail ;  baste  them  with 
butter,  and  froth  them  with  flour ;  lay  the 
toast  on  a  hot  dish,  and  the  birds  on  the 
toiist ;  pour  some  good  beef  gravy  into  tlie 
dish,  and  send  some  up  in  a  lx)at,  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  will  roast  them.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon.  Some  epicures  like 
this  bird  very  much  under-done,  and  direct 
that  a  woodcock  should  be  just  introduced 
to  tlie  cook,  for  her  to  show  it  the  fire,  and 
then  send  it  up  to  table. 

WOODCOCKS  IN  A  MINUTE.    Put 

a  brace  of  woodcocks  into  a  fryingpan, 
with  some  butter,  shred  shallotsji  grated 
nutmeg,  salt,  and  pepper ;  set  the  pan  on  a 
fierce  fire,  and  fi-y  the  woodcocks  lightly  for 
teven  or  eight  minutes;  then  add  the  juice 
of  two  lemons,  half  a  glass  of  white  wine, 
and  some  raspings ;  and  leave  them  on  the 
fire  till  the  sauce  has  boiled  up  once;  then 
serve  altogether. 

WOODCOCK  SALMIS.  Cut  up  the 
woodcock  on  tlie  table,  and  put  the  pieces 
on  a  dish,  which  place  on  a  stand,  with  a 
lamp  under  it;  add  pepper,  salt,  shred  shal- 
lots, nearly  a  glass  of  white  wine,  the  juice 
of  three  lemons,  and  a  bit  of  butter;  strew 
raspings  over,  and  boil  slowly  for  ten  min- 
utes, stirring  occasionally.  Use  spirits  of 
wine  for  your  lamp. 


WOODCOCK  SAUCE.  Pound  the 
bones  and  livers  of  roasted  woodcocks,  and 
put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  spoon- 
fuls of  cullis,  and  two  spwonfuls  of  red  port ; 
reduce  it  to  the  consistence  of  a  sauce,  and 
then  strain  it;  when  strained,  add  pepper, 
salt,  and  tlie  juice  of  two  oranges. 


Y. 


YEAST.  Beer  yeast,  which  is  the  best 
for  bread,  should  be  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve,  and  two  or  tliree  quarts  of  cold  spring 
water  poured  over  it;  when  it  has  stood  for 
twenty-four  hours  the  water  should  be  poured 
off,  the  yeast  will  then  be  found  at  ihe  bottom 
of  the  vessel,  quite  thick.  To  preserve  that 
which  may  be  left  over  the  baking,  it  should 
be  put  into  a  bottle,  corked  tight Iv,  and  kept 
in  a  cool  place.  In  cold  weather  it  will 
continue  good  for  a  fortnight,  hut  fresh  yeast 
is  always  preferal)le.  When  it  does  not  ap- 
pear sufticiently  strong,  honey  or  brown  sugar 
may  be  mixed  with  it,  in  the  proportion  of  a 
tea-spoonful  to  half  a  pint. 

YEAST,  BAKER'S.  Boil  two  ounces 
of  hops  in  four  qu.irts  of  water  one  hour, 
adding  more  water  as  it  decreases,  carefully 
stirring  it  all  the  time,  and  taking  care  that 
it  d(5  not  boil  over;  strain  the  liquor,  and 
mix  well  wilh  it  two  pounds  of  malt;  cover 
it,  and  let  it  stand  for  eight  hours,  or  until  it 
be  milk  warm,  then  stir  in  half  a  pint  of 
good  yesist;  wlien  mixed  well  together,  let 
it  woik  for  ten  hours,  and  then  strain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve. 

YEAST,  BRAN.  Boil  for  ten  minutes, 
in  two  quarts  of  water,  one  pint  of  bran,  and 
a  small  handful  of  good  hops;  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and-  when  milk  warm,  add 
three  or  four  table-spoonfuls  of  beer  yeast, 
and  two  of  brown  sugar  or  treacle:  put  it 
into  a  wooden  stoup  or  jug ;  cover  it,  and 
place  it  before  the  fire  to  ferment.  It  may 
be  bottled,  tightly  corked,  and  kept  in  a  cool 
place. 

YEAST  DUMPLINGS.  Make  a  very 
light  dough  with  yeast,  the  same  as  for  bread, 
but  widi  milk  instead  of  water,  add  salt; 
set  it  by  the  fire,  covered  up  in  a  pan,  for 
half  an  hour,  or  an  hour,  to  rise ;  in  the  mean 
tin  e,  set  on  the  fire  a  large  saucepan  of  hot 
water,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils,  roll  up  the 
dough  into  small  balls,  and  put  them  into  the 
boiling  water;  keep  them  continually  boiling 
for  ten  minutes,  then  take  them  out,  and  serve 
them  inunediately,  with  wine  sauce  over 
them.     To  ascei  tain  whether  tliey  are  suffi- 


YEA 


247 


ZES 


ciently  boiled,  stick  a  fork  into  one,  and  if  it 
comes  out  clean,  it  is  done  enough.  Some 
think  tlie  best  manner  of  eating  them  is  by 
dividing  them  from  tlie  top  by  two  forks,  as 
they  liecome  heavy  by  their  own  steam,  and 
eat  them  immediately  with  meat,  or  sugar 
and  butter,  or  salt. 

YELLOW  GLAZE.  Make  a  glaze, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  in 
powder,  the  white  of  an  egg,  to  which  add 
by  degrees  as  much  lemon -juice  as  may  be 
necessary ;  when  sulBciently  beaten  up,  (and 
the  longer  it  is  beaten  the  whiter  it  will  be), 
add  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  infusion  of  saf- 
fron, strained,  and  the  yellow  rind  of  one  or 
two  lemons  grated  on  a  piece  of  sugar,  scrap- 
ed off  and  pounded;  take  care,  however, 
not  to  put  too  much  of  the  latter,  lest  the 
glaze  should  be  bitter. 

YEAST,  TO  MAKE.  Boil  for  half  an 
hour  two  quarts  of  water,  thickened  with 
aljout  three  spoonfuls  of  fine  flour,  and 
sweetened  with  nearly  half  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar;  when  almost  cold,  put  it  into  a  jug, 
adding  four  spoonfuls  of  fresh  yeast;  shake 
it  well  together,  let  it  stand  uncovered  near 
the  fire  for  a  day,  to  ferment.    There  will  be 


a  thin  liquor  on  the  top,  pour  this  off;  shake 
the  remainder,  and  cork  it  up  for  use.  To 
make  a  half  peck  loaf  you  should  use  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  the  above. 

YEAST,  POTATO.  Boil  some  good 
mealy  potatoes ;  peel  and  weigh  them ;  while 
hot,  bruise  them  finely,  and  mix  them  quickly 
with  boiling  water,  allowing  one  quart  to 
each  pound;  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve, 
then  add  honey  or  brown  sugar  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  ounce  to  each  quart  of  water; 
boil  it  to  the  consistency  of  batter,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  add  a  large  table-spoonfiil  of 
good  yeast  to  every  quart  of  water ;  cover  it 
with  a  cloth  to  rise,  and  the  following  day  it 
will  be  ready  for  use ;  keep  a  bottle  of  it, 
which  may  be  used  instead  of  beer  yeast  for 
the  next  making,  first  pouring  off  the  thin 
liquid  that  is  on  the  top.  It  must  be  made 
with  fresh  beer  yeast  every  two  or  three 
months.  Double  the  quantity  of  this,  as  of 
beer  yeast,  is  required  to  make  bread 
light. 

ZESTS.  Zest  (a  term  of  art,  used  by 
confectioners)  is  the  peel  of  oranges,  lemons, 
or  citrons,  cut  from  top  to  bottom,  in 
slips  or  zests,  as  thin  as  possible. 


RECEIPTS 


FOR    MAKING    ALL    KINDS    OF 


CONFECTIONERY. 


CONFECTIONERY 


ALM 


ALM 


ALMONDS,  BLOWN.  Scald  a  few  al- 
monds, and  pound  them  to  about  half  as  fine 
as  for  bificuits,  beat  them  with  lemon-juice, 
whites  of  eggs  and  powder-sugar;  drop 
them  on  paper,  about  the  size  of  almonds, 
and  dry  them  in  a  stove  or  gentle  oven, 

ALMONDS       BLOWN        ROYAL. 

Choose  four  ounces  of  small  thick  almonds, 
and  put  them  into  an  oven  until  they  are 
slightly  colored.  Whilst  they  are  cooling, 
mix  four  ounces  of  sugar  with  an  egg; 
beat  them  up  for  ten  minutes ;  add  a  little 
carmine  to  make  it  a  fine  rose  color;  dip 
the  almonds  into  this:  take  them  out;  dis- 
engage them  fiom  the  egg,  so  that  they  may 
be  only  just  covered  with  it;  lay  them  two 
and  two  on  a  sheet  of  strong  paper  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  between  each  pair; 
they  may  also  be  placed  in  threes  to  form 
the  tre-foil,  on  which  may  be  added  a  fourths 
Bake  them  in  a  cool  oven. 

ALMOND  BUTTER.  To  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  blanched  almonds,  well  beat, 
put  some  new  milk  and  rose  water ;  take 
a  quart  of  thick  cream,  and  the  yolks  of 
twelve  eggs  beat  well  with  a  little  of  the 
cream ;  then  add  the  rest  of  the  cream ;  put 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  new  milk  to  the  al- 
monds, and  strain  them  into  the  cream  till 
there  is  no  strength  left ;  strain  all  togeth- 
er into  a  skillet,  set  it  over  a  charcoal  fire, 
and  stir  it  till  it  comes  to  a  tender  curd; 
put  it  into  a  strainer,  and  hang  it  up  till  the 
whey  is  drained  out ;  then  take  six  ounces 
of  fine  sifted  sugar  and  a  little  rose  water, 
and  beat  it  all  into  butter  with  a  spoon. 

ALMOND  BITTER  CAKE.  Pound 
diree  ounces  (half  bitter  and  half  sweet)  of 
almonds,  put  them  into  an  earthen  pan  with 
six  ounces  of  powder  sugar;  the  same  of 
sifted  flour,  two  whole  eggs,  and  six  yolks, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy  and  a  grain  or  two  of 
salt ;  work  these  up  together  for  five  min- 
utes and  then  add  six  ounces  of  fresh  but- 
ter which  is  slightly  warmed,  work  that  in 
for  four  minutes  longer.  Then,  having 
whipped  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  mix  them 
into  the  paste.    Butter  a  well-tinned  copper 


mould  or  paper  case,  ten  inches  long,  five 
wide,  and  two  high ;  pour  in  your  prepara- 
tion, and  bake  it  in  a  cool  oven.  While  bak- 
ing, whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  mix 
two  ounces  of  powder  sugar  with  them,  and 
cut  foui' ounces  of  sweet  almonds  into  slips 
(shortwise ; )  mix  them  also  with  two  ounces 
of  powder  sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  white  of 
egg  whipped.  In  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
take  out  tlie  cake,  and  if  it  be  firm  and  well 
colored,  cover  it  with  the  whipped  egg  and 
sugar,  and  on  that  strew  the  almonds  equal- 
ly, pressing  them  in,  that  all  may  be  colored 
alike.  This  operation  must  be  performed  as 
quick  as  poss^.ble,  and  when  done,  turn  the 
cake  out  and  cut  it  in  four  slips  (length- 
wise,) and  then  divide  each  into  six  parts 
lozenge-shaped ;  this  will  give  you  twenty- 
four  cakes,  which  must  he  arranged  in  stars 
on  your  dish,  six  to  e\evy  star.  They 
may  also  be  cut  in  two  lengths  instead  of 
four,  and  these  divided  into  fifteen  small 
pieces,  and  then,  with  a  paste-cutter,  form- 
ed into  crescents.  The  ingredients,  and  the 
proper  quantities  for  this  cake  are  as  follows: 
— six  ounces  of  flour,  t^ie  same  of  powder 
sugai',  three  ounces  of  sweet  and  bitter  al- 
monds, six  yolks,  and  two  whole  eggs,  six 
ounces  of  butter,  two  of  sugar  mixed  with 
the  whites  of  two  eggs  whipped,  four  ounces 
of  cut  almonds  added  to  the  sugar  and  eggs, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy  and  a  grain  of  sfilt. 

ALMOND  CANDY.  Blanch  a  pound 
of  the  best  almonds,  and  cut  them  very 
thin,  lengthways,  put  them  into  a  pound  of 
clarified  sugar  to  crisp  them,  stir  them  over 
the  fire  till  boiled  to  souffle;  then  take 
them  off  and  keep  stirring  till  the  sugar  is 
dry  like  sand:  then  sift  it,  so  that  the  al- 
monds may  be  left,  divide  them  into  four 
parts  to  color  them  differently,  one  part 
red,  the  second  yellow,  the  third  green,  and 
the  fourth  left  white  as  they  come  from  the 
sugar.  To  color  the  first,  soak  a  smaU 
quantity  of  carmine  in  clarified  sugar,  and 
lay  your  almonds  in  it;  do  the  same  with  a 
little  tincture  of  safiion  for  the  yellow,  and 
spinach  juice  for  the  green.  Place  the  col- 
ored almonrls  on,  a  sieve  in  a  stove ;  when 
diy,  mix  all   togedier,  adding  tlie  white 


ALM 


262 


ALM 


ones.  Boil  nearly  as  much  sugar  as  your 
mould  will  require  to  souffle,  put  it  in,  and 
when  tlie  almonds  are  quite  dry,  garnish  the 
surface  of  the  sugar  with  them;  do  not, 
however,  lay  them  too  thick,  and  just  press 
them  down  with  a  fork ;  put  the  mould  in- 
to a  moderate  oven  for  five  houi-s,  then  drain 
it  well,  and  in  anotlier  two  hours  it  may  be 
taken  from  the  mould. 

ALMONDS  CINNAMON  SPANISH. 

Blanch  your  almonds,  then  with  a  bit  of 
butter  tied  in  a  piece  of  clotii,  rub  the  pan 
and  brown  them.  Have  ready  some  clari- 
fied sugar,  with  powdered  cinnamon  stirred 
in  it,  put  in  the  almonds,  and  when  well  cov- 
ered with  the  sugar  and  cinnamon,  lay  them 
separately  on  tins,  and  dry  in  a  slow  oven. 

ALMONDS  TO  COLOR.  Almonds 
ROSE  COLORED.  Blanch  and  cut  sweet 
almonds  in  small  pieces,  put  them  on  a  bak- 
ing plate,  and  pour  on  them  a  little  of  any 
vegetable  liquid,  of  an  infusion  of  cochineal, 
or  carmine;  ilien  rub  them  in  your  hands, 
to  mix  them  well  with  the  color;  when  all 
are  so  done,  dry  them  in  a  stove  or  in  tlie 
oven. 

ALMONDS  VIOLET.  Are  done  in  the 
same  way,  the  coloring  ingredients  are 
cochineal,  and  a  little  indigo  dissolved  in 
water,  put  but  a  small  quantity  of  the  latter 
at  a  time  as  it  is  \ery  powerful. 

ALMONDS  GREEN.  The  same  pro- 
ceeding: the  color  is  made  with  two  hand- 
fuls  of  fresh  spinach,  well  washed,  drained, 
and  then  pounded;  when  very  fine,  press  it 
through  a  napkin;  let  the  juice  drop  on  a 
dish,  which  place  on  a  hot  stove ;  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  boil,  take  it  off,  stirring  it  con- 
stantly, till  the  green  curdles,  then  pour  it 
tlirough  a  horsehair  sieve,  and  when  well 
drained  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve  or  tam- 
my; the  juic^  thus  obtained,  will  give  the 
ahnonds  (which  must  be  put  in  a  few  at  a 
time)  a  clear  and  even  greeu  color. 

ALMONDS  BLUE.  Dissolve  a  little  in- 
digo  in  water,  strain  it  through  a  cloth  and 
use  it  as  above  mentioned. 

ALMONDS  ORANGE  COLORED. 
Mix  a  htde  liquid  red,  and  a  little  infusion 
of  saffron  together,  and  proceed  with  the  al- 
monds as  usual. 

ALMONDS     LEMON     COLORED. 

Infuse  a  small  quantity  of  saffron  in  nearly 
boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes;  straiu  and 
follow  the  above  direction. 

ALMONDS  CHOCOLATE  COLOR- 


ED.    Are  dyed  with  chocolate  dissolved  in 
water  and  strained. 

The  almonds  may  be  cut  in  slips,  dice, 
&c.  according  to  fancy.  Observe  that  the 
'  color  of  your  almonds  should  be  light  and 
delicate;  when  done,  place  them,  either 
separately  or  mixed  together,  in  papei 
cases. 

ALMOND  COUPEAUX.  Blanch  and 
pound  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  with 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  into  a  very  fine 
paste,  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  powdered  su- 
gar and  the  rind  of  a  lemon  grated ;  when 
thoroughly  mixed  together,  pour  over  it 
about  lour  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water: 
stir  up  the  paste  (which  ought  to  be  rather 
thin,)  once  more,  and  then  lay  it  with  a 
spoon  on  a  plate  of  bright  copper,  in  an 
oval  form,  about  three  or  four  inches  in 
length.  The  plate  being  quite  full,  take  it 
up  by  both  hands,  and  strike  it  steadily  upon 
a  table,  so  that  the  paste  may  be  extended, 
but  not  much ;  then  bake  them  until  they  be- 
come of  a  deep  yellow.  Take  them  from 
the  copper  with  a  knife,  and  whilst  hot  put 
them  on  a  wooden  roller,  about  the  thick- 
ness of  an  arm,  and  press  them  with  your 
hand,  that  they  may  acquire  the  form  of  the 
wood,  and  when  cool  place  in  a  box,  and 
keep  them  diy.  These  coupeaux  aie  very 
brittle. 

ALMONDS  CRISPED.  Rub  a  pound 
of  the  best  sweet  almonds  in  a  cloth  to  take 
off  all  the  dust,  and  then  put  them,  with 
a  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  glass  of  water  and 
a  little  carmine,  into  a  preserving  pan;  put 
them  on  the  fire,  and  let  them  remain;  when 
ihe  ahnonds  crackle  take  them  off  and  work 
them  about  until  the  sugar  is  detached  fiom 
the  almonds,  then  take  away  part  of  the  su- 
gar, put  the  almonds  on  the  fire  again,  and 
stir  them  lightly  with  a  sjmtula,  (be  careftil 
that  the  fire  be  not  too  quick ; )  and  when 
they  have  taken  the  sugar,  add  that  which 
had  been  removed,  and  continue  to  burn 
diem  till  they  have  imbibed  that  also.  Place 
a  sheet  of  paper  on  a  sieve,  throw  your  al- 
monds on  it,  separate  those  which  adiiere 
together,  and  let  them  cool. 

ALMOND  DRAGEES.  Take  of  the 
best  and  largest  almonds  what  quantity  you 
please,  and  having  washed  them  in  cold  wa- 
ter, let  them  drain  and  dry  on  a  sieve  for 
twenty-four  hours.  The  next  day  weigh 
them,  and  for  each  pound  of  almonds  take 
three  pounds  of  sugar;  clarify  the  latter  and 
lK)il  it  to  the  degree  petit  lisse;  then  let  it 
cool  a  little.  Have  your  tossing  pan  ready ; 
on  your  right  hand,  a  chafing  dish  to  keep 
your  pan  containing  die  sirup  constantly 
warm ;  and  on  your  left  hand,  a  table  with 


ALM 


253 


AL 


a  mixture  of  powder  and  flour  (of  each  half 
a  pound  to  a  pound  of  ahnonds).  All  being 
ready,  put  the  almonds  into  tlie  pan,  and 
pour  over  them  one  or  two  large  spoonfuls 
of  the  sirup,  and  shake  them  so  that  all  the 
almonds  may  be  wetted  with  sirup;  then 
take  a  handful  or  two  of  the  flour  and  pow- 
der, and  strew  it  over  the  wet  almonds; 
shake  them  again,  that  the  flour  may  adhere 
all  round  the  almonds.  After  this,  swing 
the  pan  backwards  and  forwards,  by  which 
means  the  almonds  roll  about  in  every  direc- 
tion; continue  this  motion  until  they  become 
dry;  then  moisten  and  powder  them  as  be- 
fore; swing  the  pan  again,  and  when  dry, 
repeat  the  process  a  third,  fourth,  and  fifth 
time,  or  more,  until  they  are  of  a  proper 
size ;  then  pour  over  them  the  sirup  for  the 
last  time,  without  the  powder,  and,  having 
swung  and  dried  them,  take  them  out  and 
place  them  on  sieves  in  a  warm  place,  that 
tliey  may  dry  perfectly  before  you  put  tliem 
by  "for  use. 

Observe,  that  after  a  few  layers  of  the 
sirup,  the  superabundant  ptirts  of  that  and 
the  powder  form  a  white  crust  at  the  bottom 
of  tlie  pan;  as  soon  as  it  acquires  any  de- 
gree of  tljickness,  the  pan  must  be  taken 
from  the  fire,  the  ahnonds  carefully  removed 
with  an  iron  spatula,  and  the  crust  broken 
off;  when  the  pan  has  been  well  washed  and 
dried,  replace  the  almonds  and  proceed  with 
your  work.  This  must  l»e  strictly  attended 
to,  not  only  with  this,  but  in  making  all 
kinds  of  sweetmeats.  The  sugar  thus  clear- 
ed away  may  be  made  useful  for  many  pur- 


Common  Almond  Dragees  are  made  in 
the  same  manner;  the  only  difference  con- 
sists in  having  ingredients  of  an  inferior 
quality. 

ALMONDS  (MiLK  OF)  FANeHON- 
IVETTES.  Blanch  and  pound  eight  ounces 
of  sweet  and  one  of  bitter  almonds,  and 
when  the  paste  is  very  fine,  add  to  it  three 
glasses  of  nearly  boiling  milk,  then  press 
this  mixture  through  a  napkin  to  draw  out 
the  milk.  Put  into  a  stewpan  four  yolks 
of  eg;js,  three  ounces  of  powder-sugar,  one 
of  sifted  flour,  and  a  grain  of  salt,  mix  them 
well  together,  and  add  by  degrees  the  al- 
mond milk,  put  this  on  a  moderate  fire,  stir- 
ring it  constantly.  Line  about  thirty  tartlet 
moulds  with  thin  puft"  paste,  and  put  on  them 
a  little  of  the  above  preparation,  and  bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  properly 
done,  take  them  out  and  let  them  cool.  Mix 
with  the  whites  of  three  hard  eggs,  four 
ounces  of  powder-sugar,  stir  it  well  to  soften 
the  egg,  and  make  it  work  easily;  put  some 
of  the  remainder  of  your  preparation  on 
each  of  the  fanchonneUes,  and  cover  them 
lightly  with  tlie  egg;  put  some  white  of  egg 


on  the  blade  of  a  lai-ge  knife,  and  with  a 
small  one  as  quick  as  possible  take  off  sev- 
en meringues  about  the  size  of  a  filbert, 
and  arrange  them  in  the  form  of  a  crown  on 
each  fanchonnette;  when  you  have  done 
five  or'  six,  cover  them  with  powder-sugar 
very  equally,  and  then  bake  them  in  a  cool 
oven.  When  of  a  reddish  brown  they  are 
done  and  may  be  served. 

ALMOND  CHEESE,  BITTER.   Peel, 

wash,  and  drain,  three  ounces  of  sweet,  and 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  pound  them  to 
a  paste,  moistening  with  two  spoonfufe  of 
water.  Put  them  into  an  earthen  pan,  with 
two  glasses  of  nearly  boiling  milk,  in  which 
eight  ounces  of  sugar  have  been  dissolved  ; 
let  this  stand  an  hour,  then  strain  it  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  put  to  it  six  diachms  of 
isinglass  lukewarm  j  place  the  whole -in  ice 
and  when  ii  begins  to  set,  add  some  whipped 
cream;  pour  it  into  a  mould  which  has  been 
kept  in  ice,  put  it  in  ice  again  for  half  an 
hour,  and  then  take  i\\e  fromage  from  the 
mould. 

ALMOND  FLUMMERY.  Boil  diiee 
ounces  of  hartshorn  in  two  quarts  of  spring 
water ;  let  it  simmer  six  or  seven  hours  till 
half  the  water  is  consumed ;  strain  it  through 
a  sieve ;  l)eat  half  a  pound  of  almonds  very 
fine,  with  a  quantity  of  orange-flower  water; 
mix  a  little  of  the  jelly  and  some  fine  sugar 
with  it  ;  strain  it  with  the  rest  of  tl:e  jelly, 
stirring  it  till  it  is  a  little  more  than  blood 
warm  ;  pour  it  into  basins  or  cups,  and  stick 
in  almonds  cut  small. 

ALMOND  GARLANDS.  Take  half 
a  pound  of  march-pane  paste,  the  whites  of 
two  or  three  eggs,  some  pou^ered  cinnamon 
and  a  little  flour,  knead  them  into  a  paste, 
and  roll  them  into  the  form  of  sausages  with 
your  hand  on  the  table,  first  strewing  the 
table  with  almonds  minced,  but  not  very  fine  ; 
so  that  they  may  adhere  to  the  sausages, 
which  ought  to  be  about  the  size  of  yoiu" 
finger  ;  then  form  them  into  rings  or  gar- 
lands t)f  what  size  you  please,  fixing  the  ends 
together  with  water  :  place  them  on  paper, 
and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven  until  they  are 
of  a  clear  brown  color. 

ALMOND  LITTLE  CAKE,  BITTER. 

Pound  six  drachms  of  bitter  almonds,  strain 
them  through  a  sieve,  and  mix  them  in  an 
earthen  vessel,  with  nearly  the  white  of  an 
egg,  and  six  ounces  of  sugar,  .>tir  these  with 
a  silver  spoon  for  a  few  minutes.  Take 
three-quarters  of  a  poimd  of  pufl'  paste,  roll 
it  to  tlie  thickness  of  a  (juai  ter  of  an  inch, 
and  cut  out  of  it  thirty  ovai  cakes  two  inches 
and  a  half  long  by  two  and  a  (juaiter  wide 
pointed  at  tlie  ends  ;  put  on  each  a  q!.iarter 


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of  a  spoonful  of  the  almond  glaze,  and  with 
the  blade  of  a  knife  spread  it  equally  over 
the  surface  for  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch, 
and  then  let  them  stand  for  half  an  hour 
before  you  put  them  into  the  oven,  which 
miist  be  moderate.  If  you  bake  them  imme- 
diately after  putting  on  tiie  glaze,  it  wrinkles 
and  shrivels  up,  which  spoils  their  appear- 
ance, as  they  ought  to  be  quite  smooth  and 
even  ;  the  cakes  also  require  considerable 
care  in  the  baking;  they  should  be  slightly 
colored  on  llie  top  and  the  lower  part  red- 


ALMOND     GENOESE,     BITTER. 

Blanch  two  ounces  four  drachms  of  sweet, 
and  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  bitter  almonds, 
poirtid  them  to  a  paste  and  then  put  them 
into  the  following  preparation  :  blanch  and 
pound^  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  and 
when  perfectly  smooth,  mix  them  in  an  earth- 
en pan  with  six  ounces  of  flour,  the  same  of 
powder-sugar,  six  yolks  and  two  whole  eggs, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy  and  a  grain  of  salt. 
Stir  the  whole  for  six  minutes,  then  add  six 
ounces  of  butter  slightly  warmed  but  not 
melted  ;  work  the  butter  well  into  the  paste 
for  four  or  five  minutes.  Butter  two  moulds, 
or  pajier  cases,  about  nine  or  ten  inches 
square,  pour  in  your  preparation,  smooth  it 
with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  then  put  them 
to  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  first  strewing 
on  them  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  minced 
and  mixed  with  two  ounces  of  powder-sugar, 
and  a  little  white  of  egg.  When  done,  cut 
tliem  into  all  possible  forms,  then  replace 
thera  in  the  oven  to  dry  ;  when  brillle,  take 
them  out,  let  them  cool,  and  decorate  them 
to  yeur  fancy, 

ALMOND,  GRILLAGE.  Blanch 
half  a  pound  of  almonds,  cut  them  into  four 
or  five  slips,  lengthways,  pralinez  them 
with  three-eighths  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  sand 
them  when  they  begin  to  crackle  ;  then  put 
them  on  the  fire  again  till  tliey  are  well  mixed 
together  and  form  a  mass,  yVhich  put  on 
wafer-paper  lightly  oiled,  lay  it  flat,  strew 
over  it  cinnamon,  sugar,  plain  or  white 
nonpareils,  and  then  cut  it  in  pieces, 

ALMOND  KNOTS.  Take  two  pounds 
of  almonds,  and  blanch  them  in  hot  w  ater  ; 
beat  them  in  a  mortar,  to  a  very  fine  paste,, 
with  rose  water,  be  careful  to  keep  them  from 
oiling.  Take  a  pound  of  double-refined  su- 
gar, sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve,  leave  out 
some  to  make  up  the  knots,  put  the  lent  in 
a  pun  upon  the  fire,  till  it  is  .scalding  hot,  at 
tlie  same  time  have  the  almonds  scalding 
hot  in  another  ])Hn  ;  then  mix  tliem  togelher 
with  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  froth, 
and  let  it  stand  until  it  is  coM  ;  dien  roll  it 
wttlj   some  of  -the  sugar    left   out    for    that 


purpose,  and  lay  them  in  platters  of  paper^^ 
They  will  not  roll  into  shajje,  therefore  lay 
them  as  well  as  may  be,  and  bake  tliem  inr 
a  slow  oven. 

ALMOND  MILK.  Take  six  ounces  of 
sweet  almonds,  and  a  pint  of  milk,  four 
drachms  of  orange-flower  water,  and  five 
ounces  of  sugar.  Blanch  and  pound  the 
almonds  to  a  very  smooth  paste,  moistening 
them  occasionally  with  a  few  drops  of  milk ; 
when  your  paste  crumbles,  put  it  in  the  milk 
and  mix  ihem  well,  and  boil  it  till  reduced 
to  half,  dien  let  it  boil  up  once  more  ;  let 
it  cool  and  serve. 

ALMOND  MIRLITONS.  Blanch  an 
ounce  of  sweet,  and  the  same  of  bitter  al- 
monds, and  dry  them  in  an  oven  ;  when  cold, 
pound  them  with  a  little  white  of  egg  to 
prevent  their  oiling  ;  then  put  them  into  an 
earthen  pan  with  two  ounces  of  bitter  maca- 
roons, five  ounces  of  powder-sugar,  four  whole 
eggs,  and  a  grain  of  salt  ;  when  these  are 
well  mixed  together,  add  two  ounces  of  butter, 
lukewarm.  Make  a  proper  quantity  of  puff 
paste,  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut  it  into  thirty 
round  pieces  alxjut  two  inches  and  three- 
quarters  in  diameter,  and  put  each  of  these 
into  a  tartlet  mould  buttered  ;  put  the  mirli- 
tons  on  this,  and  when  all  are  equally  full, 
cover  them  with  powder  sugar  sifted  over 
them  through  a  tammy  ;  as  soon  as  that  is 
dissolved  strew  more  (but  not  such  fine)  pow- 
der sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven.     Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

ALMOND  MONCEAUX.  Take  half 
a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  cut  them  into  thin 
slips  (lengthways)  and  roast  them  on  an  iron 
until  tliey  are  of  a  deep  yellow  color,  inclin- 
ing to  brown  ;  beat  up  the  whites  of  six  or 
eight  eggs  w'ith  a  spoon  in  an  earthen  pan. 
Pour  over  the  almonds  a  pound  of  sugar  finely 
powdered,  Piur  ounces  of  candied  orange  peel, 
the  same  of  candied  lemon-peel,  also  cut  into 
thin  slips,  half  a  spoonful  of  powdered  cinna- 
mon, and  six  or  eight  cloves  pounded  ;  mix 
these  ingredients  ^vell  in  the  pan,  and  place 
it  on  paper  in  little  heaps  of  a  pyramidal 
form,  and  bake  them  in  a  well-heated  oven. 

ALMOND  PASTE.  Blanch  two  pounds 
of  Bvveet  almonds,  and  soak  them  in  cold 
water  for  twelve  hours,  then  dry  them  in  a 
napkin^  and  pound  a  (|uarter  of  them  to  a 
very  fine  paste  with  a  little  water  and  lemon- 
juice,  |)ass  tliem  through  a  sieve,  and  then 
jwiund  the  remainder  (half  a  jwund  at  a  time.) 
When  all  aie  done,  mix  them  with  a  pound 
of  sifted  sugar  ;  place  them  over  a  gentle  fire, 
.stirring  it  conlinually,  until  the  paste  v/ill 
flow  from  the  spoon  ;  then  pour  it  into  a 
jHoriar,  and  when    it   Ix'comes   lukewarm, 


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pound  it  again  with  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon 
previously  dissolved  in  a  glass  of  water  and 
strained,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  a 
pound  of  sifted  sugar.  As  soon  as  your  paste 
is  of  the  proper  consistence,  take  it  out  and 
lay  it  on  the  slab,  sprinkled  first  with  sugar ; 
divide  your  paste  into  three  parts,  and  color 
each  part  according  to  your  fancy.  The 
coloring  or  dyes  are  made  of  the  same 
materials  as  are  used  for  almonds. 

ALMOND  PASTE  to  keep  six,  or 
even  twelve  months.  Blanch  and  pound 
a  pound  of  swajt  almonds,  moistened  occa- 
sionally with  water,  1o  prevent  their  oiling; 
when  well  beaten,  add  half  a  pound  of  fine 
powdered  sugar,  and  mix  the  whole  into  a 
paste  to  use  when  you  have  occasion.  When 
wanted,  mix  a  piece  about  the  size  of  an  egg 
with  three  gills  of  water,  and  strain  it  through 
a  napkin. 

ALMOND  PRALINES,  (dried,  pre- 
served or  burnt.)  A  pound  of  the  best 
almonds  must  be  washed  in  cold  water  ; 
when  dioroughly  dry,  put  them  into  a  pre- 
serving pan  with  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water,  keep  them  on  the  fire, 
stirring  them  continually,  until  they  crackle 
and  fly  about,  and  the  sugar  begins  to  color, 
stir  them  about  gently  to  gather  the  sugar, 
and  leave  them  in  the  pan  to  dry  about  two 
hours,  in  a  stove  or  any  moderate  heat. 

ALMONDS,  RED  CRISPED.  Pre- 
pare them  as  above  until  they  have  taken 
the  sugar  and  are  ready  to  be  taken  off  the 
fire,  put  the  almonds  upon  a  sieve  with  a 
disli  under,  take  the  sugar  that  drops,  and 
put  it  into  the  same  pan,  adding  a  little 
fresh  ;  refine  it  till  it  comes  to  the  twelfth 
degree  au  casse,  then  take  cochineal,  color 
sufficient  to  tinge  the  almonds,  and  put  them 
therein  ;  give  them  a  few  turns  over  the  fire 
in  the  sugar,  and  finish  as  at  first. 

ALMOND  SWEETMEATS  (YEL- 
LOVV^)  Blanch  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds, 
wash  them  in  cold  water,  and  when  quite  dry, 
pound  them  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  yolks 
of  eggs,  into  a  fine  but  rather  stiff"  paste  : 
add  to  them  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and 
the  rinds  of  two  lemons  grated  ;  knead  the 
paste  well  with  your  hands,  first  sprinkling 
the  table  with  sugar.  Form  tlie  paste  into 
what  figmes  you  please,  such  as  fleur-de-lis, 
trefoil,  &:c.  each  being  about  the  size  and 
weight  of  a  macaroon.  Place  them  on  white 
paper  and  on  an  iron  plate,  fry  them  in  a  mo- 
derately hot  stove.  If  they  are  of  a  deep 
yellow,  they  are  sufficiently  done. — These 
sweetmeats  may  be  still  further  ornamented 
in  the  following  manner: — Boil  some  sugar 
in  orange-flower  water  to  the  degree  called 


grande  plume,  and  as  soon  aa  the  sweet- 
meats are  taken  from  the  stove  or  oven,  wash 
them  over  with  a  light  brush  dipped  in  the 
sirup  ;  this  will  give  them  a  delicious  per- 
fume, and  they  may  then  be  called  d  la 
glace.  When  cold,  take  them  from  the 
paper  and  put  them  into  glasses  for  the  table. 

ALMONDS,  ROCK  OF  ALICAN- 
TE, SPANISH.  Clarify  honey,  and 
stir  into  it  as  many  blanched  almonds  as 
you  can  entangle.  Leave  it  to  cool.  This 
makes  a  pretty  ciystaline  ornament  for  the 
dessert  ;  it  is  also  called  Rock  of  Gibraltar. 

ALMOND  WAFERS.  Take  a  pound 
of  s^veet  almonds,  blanch  and  pound  them, 
add  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  a  pinch  of 
orange-flowers  pralinee,  put  them  into  a 
basin,  and  moisten  them  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  whites  of  eggs  to  enable  you  to 
spread  the  paste  on  vvaler  paper  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife  (the  wafer  paper  must  be 
rubbed  with  virgin  wax  and  sweet  oil)  ;  lay 
the  preparation  on  as  thin  as  possible  ;  chop 
some  sweet  almonds  veiy  small,  mix  diem 
with  sugar,  and  strew  them  over  the  wafers 
and  put  them  into  a  hot  oven  ;  wiien  about 
half  baked,  take  them  out  and  cut  them  in 
squares  ;  replace  them  a  minute  in  the  oven, 
take  them  out  again,  and  press  them  on  a 
stick  to  give  them  the  proper  form  ;  as  soon 
as  they  are  cold,  put  them  on  a  sieve.  Just 
before  they  are  served  they  should  be  slightly 
warmed. 

ALMOND      COMPOTE,      GREEN. 

Take  the  peel  very  carefully  from  your  al- 
monds, and  put  them  with  water  on  the  fire 
till  they  are  tender  ;  then  take  them  off"  and 
add  a  little  more  water  ;  when  nearly  cold 
put  them  on  the  fire  again,  but  do  not  let 
them  boil  ;  as  soon  as  you  find  the  head  of 
a  pin  will  penetrate  easily,  they  are  then 
sufficiently  done,  and  may  be  thrown  into 
cold  water;  and  when  the  fruit  is  quite  cold, 
drain  them.  In  the  meantime  put  some 
clarified  sugar  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils 
put  in  the  almonds  ;  boil  them  in  the  sugar 
about  twenty  times,  then  remove  them,  and 
let  the  almonds  stand  to  take  the  sugar  :  in 
about  two  hours'  time  put  them  on  the  fire 
again,  and  boil  them  up  a  dozen  times  ;  after 
which,  take  them  off",  skim,  and  let  them 
cool.  When  quite  cool  drain  and  put  the 
fruit  in  a  compotier.  If  the  sugar  should 
not  be  sufficiently  done,  boil  as  much  more 
as  you  may  think  necessary  ;  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  an  orange,  boil  it  once  again,  and 
when  nearly  cold  strain  it  through  a  cloth 
into  the  compotier  over  the  almonds. 

ALMOND  NONPAREILS,  GREEN. 

Drain  some  green  almonds  that  have  been 


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preserved  in  brandy  ;  dip  them  one  by  one 
in  sugar  prepared  au  cassi,  and  roll  them 
in  white,  or  any  other  colored  nonpareils, 
and   dry  them  in  a  stove,  or  gentle  oven. 

ALMOND  (GREEN)  PRESERVED. 

Put  some  water  into  a  saucepan,  with  tv\'o 
handfuls  of  bran,  and  when  it  has  boiled  up 
twice,  throw  in  some  green  almonds  ;  let 
them  boil  up  once,  then  take  them  out  with 
a  skimmer,  and  rub  them  well  in  your  hands 
to  take  off  the  down  ;  as  you  do  this,  tlirow 
them  into  cold  water  ;  then  boil  them  in 
water  till,  on  pricking  them,  a  pin  easily 
enters  and  they  shrink  :  then  clarify  some 
sugar,  a  pound  to  a  pound  of  fruit  ;  boil  up 
the  sirup  four  or  five  successive  days,  morn- 
ing and  evening,  without  the  fruit,  which 
you  leave  to  drain  upon  a  sieve  ;  lastly,  put 
the  fruit  into  a  pan,  and  when  rather  more 
than  lukewarm,  pour  the  sirup  over  it ;  when 
they  look  very  green  they  are  sufficiently 
done. 

ANDAYE  BRANDY.  An  ounce  of 
bruised  aniseed,  an  ounce  of  bruised  corian- 
der seed,  two  ounces  of  powdered  Florence 
iris,  the  zesles  of  two  oranges  ;  put  them 
with  three  quarts  of  distilled  brandy  into  the 
alembic  bain-marie  ;  dissolve  two  ponnrls 
and  a  half  of  sugar  in  two  pints  and  a  half 
of  clear  river  water,  add  them  to  the  distilled 
liqueur,  pass  the  whole  through  a  strainer, 
and  put  into  bottles. 

ANGELICA  CAKES.  Take  Uxr  oun- 
ces of  angelica  powder,  and  two  pounds  of 
fine  sugar.  Beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg 
with  a  little  sifted  sugar,  until  it  is  of  the  con- 
sistence of  cream  cheese  ;  dissolve  the  sugar 
in  a  skillet  and  skim  it  ;  when  it  has  boiled 
a  little,  throw  in  the  angelica,  and  boil  the 
sugar  to  petit  casse,  then  take  it  from  the 
fire,  put  in  half  a  spoonful  of  the  lieaten  egg, 
and  stir  it  quickly  until  the  sugar  rises,  then 
stop,  and  when  it  has  fallen  again,  stir  till 
it  rises  a  second  time  ;  it  may  now  be  pour- 
ed into  moulds  or  paper  cases,  well  oiled  and 
sprinkled  with  sifted  sugar. 

ANGELICA  (ESSENCE  of)  JELLY. 
Having  washed  and  well  dried  two  ounces  of 
angelica-roots  ;  cut  them  in  pieces  and  throw 
them  into  boiling  sirup,  (three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,)  with  an  ounce  of  bruised 
angelica  seeds  ;  cover  the  mixture  close,  and 
when  cold,  add  to  it  half  a  glass  of  kirsch- 
wasser,  and  pass  it  through  a  tammy ;  then 
filter,  and  afterwards  put  to  it  an  ounce  of 
isinglass  :  stir  it  lightly  with  a  silver  spoon ; 
pound  ten  pounds  of  ice,  and  put  it  into  a 
large  sieve  or  pan,  place  your  mould  in  the 
middle  of  the  ice,  taking  care  that  it  touches 
the  ice  in  every  part ;  pour  the  jelly  into  tlie 


mould,  cover  it  with  a  saucepan  lid,  put  ice 
on  tliai,  and  let  it  stand  for  three  hours ;  after 
that  time  have  ready  a  saucepan  large  enough 
to  take  in  the  mould  easily  ;  fill  it  with  water 
so  warm  that  you  can  scarcely  bear  your  hand 
in  it ;  plunge  the  mould  in  so  as  to  allow  the 
water  to  p:iss  over  the  whole,  but  as  quickly 
as  possible,  and  then  turn  the  jelly  into  your 
dish  for  table.  This  last  operation  should 
be  performed  with  great  agility.  Observe, 
in  making  these  kind  of  jellies,  that  no  tinned 
or  pewter  vessels  or  spoons  should  be  used, 
as  they  impart  a  violet  tinge  to  your  jellies, 
which  ought  to  be  of  the  color  of  the  ingre- 
dients employed,  as  for  instance  the  above 
should  be  a  clear  light  green  color. 

ANGELICA  LIQUEUR.  Wash, 
scrape,  and  cut  in  small  pieces,  twelve  ounces 
of  fresh,  or  half  the  quantity  of  Bohemian 
angelica  roots,  and  infuse  them  for  a  week 
in  six  pints  of  brandy  and  one  of  water,  vvitli 
a  drachm  of  mace,  two  drachms  of  cinnamon, 
and  twelve  cloves  ;  at  the  end  of  that  lime 
distil  it,  then  dissolve  three  pounds  of  sugar 
in  three  pints  of  water  ;  mix  it  with  the 
liqueur,  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  or  fil- 
ter it  through  paper.  Observe,  that  the  best 
brandy  for  liqueurs  is  that  which  is  ruade 
at  Montpelier,  as  it  yields  more  in  distilla- 
tion than  the  Cogniac.  Take  notice  also 
that  the  first  drops  which  fall  from  the  alem- 
bic after  it  is  placed  on  the  stove,  must  not 
be  mixed  with  the  liqueur.  A  glass  should, 
therefore,  be  placed  under  the  mouth  of  the 
alembic  to  receive  diem,  and  when  about  a 
quarter  of  it  is  filled  you  may  remove  it,  and 
place  your  bottles  or  matrass.  The  phlegm, 
as  these  droppings  are  called,  are  good  for 
nothing. 

ANGELICA  PASTE.  Take  young  and 
pithy  angelica  stalks,  boil  them  till  tender, 
drain  and  press  all  tlie  water  out ;  beat  them 
in  a  mortar  to  a  paste,  and  rub  it  through  a 
sieve.  Next  day  dry  it  over  the  fire,  and  to 
every  pound  of  paste  put  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar.  When  the  paste  is  hot  add  the  sugar, 
stirring  it  till  thoroughly  mixed,  over  a  gentle 
fire.  Drop  it  on  plates,  dust  a  little  sugar 
over  them,  and  dry  them  in  a  stove. 

ANGELICA  PRESERVED.  Take  the 
stalks  of  angelica  when  of  a  good  size,  but 
Ixjfore  they  have  run  to  seed  ;  clear  off  the 
leaves,  and  as  you  cut  Uie  stalks  into  proper 
lengths  throw  them  into  water,  and  lx>il  them 
till  the  stalks  are  soft;  take  them  from  the 
fire,  and  put  them  into  cold  water  ;  take  off 
the  skin,  and  again  put  them  into  cold  water ; 
then  drain  and  put  them  into  an  earthen  pan, 
and  pour  over  a  sufficient  quantity  of  clarified 
sugar  to  float  the  angelica.  In  twenty-four 
hours  boil  the  sugar  ten  or  a  dozen  times. 


ANI 


257 


ANI 


and  when  lukewarm  pour  it  over  the  stalks. 
Proceed  in  the  same  way  for  four  succeeding 
idays  ;  after  which,  drain  the  stalks,  and  in 
the  meanwhile  boil  the  sugar  (adding  more, 
if  necessary)  to  the  degiee  grande  perle  ; 
put  the  angelica  to  this,  cover  it  close,  and 
let  it  boil  five  or  six  times.  Take  it  from 
tlie  fii-e,  scum,  and  put  it  by  in  pots. 


ANGELICA     PRESERVED       DRY. 

Proceed  as  for  the  liquid,  until  you  have 
poured  the  sugar  au  grand  perle  over  the 
angelica  ;  leave  it  for  a  day  in  die  sugar, 
then  drain  and  dry  it  on  slates,  or  iron  plates, 
in  a  stove. 

ANGELICA  RATAFIA.  Take  six 
pints  of  brandy,  a  [)int  of  river  watei',  tlnee 
pounds  of  sugai',  two  ounces  of  fresh  gathered 
angelica-roots,  the  same  (juantity  of  angelica 
eeed  ;  mace  and  clove,  a  drachm  of  each. 
Wash  and  dry  the  roots  well,  cut  them  in 
slices,  and  put  them,  widi  the  seeds  and 
spices  bruised,  into  (he  brandy,  to  infuse  for 
twenty  days  ;  Uien  strain  it,  and  having  ad- 
ded to  it  the  sugar  dissolved  in  river  water, 
filler  and  bottle  your  ratafia. 

ANGEUCA  RATAFIA.  Strip  die  an- 
selica  stalks  of  their  leaves,  and  cut  them 
into  small  pieces,  which  put  into  the  l^est 
brandy  and  water,  in  the  projmrtion  of  f(«ir 
lities  of  brandy  and  two  of  water  to  one 
pound  of  angelica,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar 
to  die  same  quantity  ;  add  cloves  and  cinna- 
mon ;  let  it  stand  six  weeks,  tlien  filter  and 
bottle  it. 

ANGELICA  WATER.  Wash  eight 
handfuls  of  angelica  leaves,  cut,  and  lay  them 
on  a  table  to  dry.  When  (jiiite  dry,  put 
them  ill  an  earthen  pot  witli  a  gallun  of  strong 
wine  lees.  Let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours, 
Btir  it  twice  in  that  time,  then  put  it  into  a 
warm  still  or  alembic  ;  draw  off  into  bottles, 
covered  widi  paper  pricked  in  holes,  and  let 
them  stand  thus  two  or  three  days.  Sweeten 
it,  and  when  it  is  settled,  bottle,  and  stop  it 
close. 

ANISEED,  OIL  OF.  Is  made  like  ani- 
seed water,  the  only  difference  is,  that  an 
additional  pound  of  sugar  is  necessary  to 
make  the  sirup. 

ANISE  PETIT  PAINS.  Put  two 
glasses  of  water  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  but- 
ter into  a  stewpan,  and  when  the  li(]uid  boils 
take  it  from  the  fire,  and  mix  with  it  six 
ounces  of  sifted  flour;  amalgamate  it  thor- 
oughly, so  diat  It  may  be  quite  free  from 
lumps  ;  dien  di-y  it  over  die  fire.  Take  it 
out  of  the  saucepan,  and  add  to  it  two  eggs, 
and  two  ounces  of  powder-sugar ;  mix  them 
'22* 


well  in,  and  then  put  in  two  more  eggs  and 
the  zeste  of  a  lemon  minced  fine  :  when 
these  are  also  well  incorporated,  add  another 
egg  or  two,  if  the  paste  (which  should  be  ra- 
ther firm,)  will  bear  them.  Sprinkle  ^our 
paste  slab  with  flour,  cut  the  paste  into 
pieces,  each  the  size  of  a  walnut;  roll  these 
with  as  little  flour  as  possible,  to  about  three 
inches  long,  and  as  you  roll  diem  place  diem 
on  a  baking-tin,  two  inches  apart;  dorez 
and  bake  tliem  in  a  tolerably  warm  oven  till 
they  are  firm.  Then'  cut  some  anise  into 
fillets,  boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
casse,  and  tiie  moment  it  reaches  that  de^ 
gree  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  that  the 
sugar  may  not  lose  its  wliiteness;  dip  the 
top  and  one  side  of  each  petit  pain  in  the 
sugar  as  quick  as  possible,  and  as  you  take 
diem  out,  strew  die  anise  over  them  lightly. 
Red  anise  is  also  used  for  diese  petit 
pains. 

ANISEED  RATAFIA.  To  make  a 
quart  of  this  li(|ueur,  boil  a  pound  of  sugar 
with  a  demisetier  of  water,  until  the  sugar 
is  (juite  clear;  then  heat  anodier  demisetier 
of  water,  and  put  in  it  diree  ounces  of  anise ; 
take  it  from  die  fire  before  it  boils;  let  it 
stand  a  (juarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  pour  it 
widi  three  pints  of  brandy  into  the  sugar; 
mix  all  well  together,  and  then  pour  into  a 
vessel,  which  must  be  closed  tight,  and 
placed  in  die  sun.  Let'it  stand  three  weeks, 
and  dten  bottle  it. 

ANISEED  WATER.  Choose  eight 
oimces  of  new  green  anise,  sift  it  well  to 
free  it  from  the  dust,  and  then  infuse  in  six 
pints  of  brandy,  with  the  zestes  of  three 
lemons,  and  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon ;  in 
a  week's  time  distil  it  over  a  moderate  fire, 
put  a  pint  of  wafer  into  the  alembic;  take 
care  to  collect  the  phlegm  before  you  draw 
off  the  aniseed  water.  Dissolve  three  pounds 
of  sugar  in  three  pints  of  water.  As  the 
anise  contains  an  acid  salt,  which  renders 
this  liqueur  milky,  the  following  proceeding 
is  necessary: — Reserve  a  pint  of  the  water 
fiom  that  in  which  you  dissolved  the  sugar, 
and  mix  with  the  white  of  three  or  four 
eggs,  well  whipped,  and  while  the  sirup  is 
hot  put  to  it  this  egg-water  and  the  aniseed 
water;  stir  it  over  die  fire  until  the  whole 
is  hot  without  boiling;  then  put  it  into  a 
glass  jar,  cork  it  well,  and  let  it  stand;,  dip 
next  day  bottle  and  filter  it. 

ANISETTE  DE  BORDEAUX.  Take 
two  ounces  of  green  aniseed,,  half  a  pound 
of  aniseed,  two  ounces  of  coriander,  and  the 
same  of  fennel  seeds.  Bruise,  and  put  thera, 
with  sixteen  pints  of  brandy„  into  an  alenv- 
bic  bain-marie.  Then  dissolve  thirteen 
pounds  of  sugar  in  two  (juarts  of  river  water. 


APP 


256 


APR 


which  must  be  put  to  your  liqueur  when  dis- 
tilled.    Filter  and  bottle  it. 

APPLE  FRITTERS.  Turn  twelve 
small  apples,  cut  fliem  into  halvei!,  and  boil 
them  in  sirup,  tl)cn  leave  tiicm  to  cool. 
When  they  are  cold,  make  an  extremely 
thin  crust  with  brioche  paste.  Make  a 
fritter  for  each  half  apple,  then  fry  them  and 
finish  the  same  as  Fritters  d  la  Dauphine. 

Pears  cut  into  quarters  are  made  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  above. 

APPLETS  AND  ALMONDS  Little 
Cakes.  Proceed  the  same  as  above  till 
the  marmalade  is  spread  ovei-  the  under- 
crust,  then  cover  it  with  almonds  cut  in  fil- 
lets, press  them  in  lightly;  mask  them  with 
powder-sugar  and  bake  in  a  m')derale  oven. 
As  soon  as*  cold,  cut  your  gateaux  accord- 
ing to  your  fmcy,  cilher  round,  oblong,  lo- 
zenge, or  crescent-shaped. 

APPLE  MARMALADE,  Little 
Cakes.  Mtd\e  a  marmalade  of  twenty-four 
apples  in  the  usual  way,  with  a  (|uarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pot  of 
apricots,  and  I  lie  zeste  of  a  lemon,  shred 
fine.  Make  your  paslej  and  proceed  as  di- 
rected for  Pfctits  Gateaux  gluces  of  api'icots. 
Sprinkle  them  (when  marked)  widi  povvder- 
eugar.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  and 
finish  tliom. 

APPLE  PETIT  GATEAUX  WITH 

Pistachios.  Make  an  under-crust  of  the 
Bamc  size  and  thickness  as  directed  (or  petits 
g&teoiiX  glaces  of  apiicots,  and  cover  it 
with  apple  marmalade;  when  baked,  mash 
the  apples  with  a  little  apricot  marmalade, 
and  strew  over  a  qtiarter  of  a  pound  of  pis- 
tachio nuts  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  then  put 
it  in  the  oven  again  fjr  a  few  minutes  to  dry 
tlie  apricots.  When  cold  cut  them  into  the 
usual  fjrms, 

APPLES  AND  PISTACHIOS.  Pre- 
pare and  toss  up  a  dozen  apples  for  this 
gateau  witii  apples  and  raisins,  with  the  ad- 
dition of  two  ounces  of  sugai',  and  instead 
of  the  zeste  of  an  orange,  grate  that  of  a 
lemon,  and  put  three  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts 
blanched,  in  the  place  of  the  raisins.  Pro- 
ceed in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  that 
recipe,  strewing  on  the  dome  of  the  gdteau 
pistachio  and  sugar,  each  nut  cut  into  six 
pieces;  and  when  the  crown  is  put  round 
the  band,  place  a  pistachio  nut  in  the  mid- 
dle of  each  meringue,  bake  it  of  a  light 
color  in  a  slow  oven,  and  serve  it  hot. 

APPLE  MERINGUEES.  Put  some 
apple  marmalade  on  a  dish,  in  a  pyramid: 


whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  froth,  miyt 
with  them  two  s|X>onful3  of  powder-sugar 
and  a  little  lemon-peel  chopped  extremely 
small ;  decorate  your  apples  with  this  prep- 
aratiim,  glaze  them  with  sugar,  and  color 
tiiem  in  the  oven. 

APPLE  MERINGUE.  Lay  a  timbale 
paste  in  a  tart  pan,  egg  and  prick  it  all  over, 
and  bake  it;  lay  in  it  a  puree  of  ap|)les,  and 
finish  with  white  of  egg,  as  for  a  la  Turque; 
serve  it  hot. 

APPLES  PUREE.  Peel  and  core  a 
dozen  or  more  good  baking  apples ;  set  them 
over  the  fire  to  stew  with  some  clarified 
sugar  and  a  small  bit  of  lemon-peel;  when 
soft,  stir  tliem  well  vvitli  a  wooden  spoon, 
and  put  in  a  spoonful  of  apricot  jam;  stir  it 
at  times  till  the  jam  is  mixed  and  the  apples 
diicken,  then  rub  the  whole  through  a 
tammy. 

APPLES,     SOUFFLE     PARISIEN. 

Make  a  marmalade  of  three  dozen  apples, 
half  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  the  peel  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  glass  of  water;  dry  it  as  much 
as  you  possibly  can,  f  )r  on  that  the  good  ap- 
pearance of  the  souffle  parisien  chiefly 
depends;  then  put  it  into  a  large  stewpan. 
Whip  the  whites  of  fiileeu  eggs  to  a  strong 
fiolh,  with  a  pound  of  powder-sugar.  Mix 
a  quarter  of  this  at  first,  with  the  apple  mar- 
malade, then  stir  the  whole  together,  and 
pour  it  into  a  croustade  prepared  as  usual. 
(See  Souri'LE.)  Bake  it  for  an  hour  in  a 
nwderate  oven.  Serve  it  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble after  taking  it  from  die  oven.  Glaze  it 
with  powder-sugar. 

APPLE  SIRUP.  Take  six  apples, 
pare  and  cut  them  into  snrall  pieces;  put 
them  into  a  matrass  with  thn^-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  sugar  and  two  glasses  of  water; 
stop  it  cl(jse  and  place  it  in  a  bain  marie, 
and  leave  it  a!j(jut  two  Ixnirs,  letting  the 
water  be  boiling;  move  the  matrass  fre- 
quently without  taking  it  out  of  the  water; 
this  must  Ije  done  carefully  lest  it  should 
break  on  lx?ing  exposed  to  the  cold  air; 
when  done  put  out  the  fire,  and  let  tlie  mat- 
rass cool  Ijefore  you  take  it  out.  When  tlie 
sirup  is  nearly  cold,  flavor  it  with  lemon- 
juice,  and  add  a  spoonful  of  spirits  of  lemon 
or  cinnamon,  orange-flower  water,  or  wbat- 
evei-  else  you  may  choose.  If  any  dregs 
should  arise,  let  it  stand  for  some  hours 
longer,  and  then  gently  pour  the  sirup  into 
bottles.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  pre- 
vent its  being  muddy. 

APRICOTS  BOTTLED.  Press  the 
quantity  of  ripe  apricots  you  may  require 


APR 


^50 


APR 


through  a  horse-hair  sieve;  put  the  pulp  into 
bottles,  cork  theij)  very  close,  and  tie  them 
over;  phice  tliese  bottles  uprigiit  in  si  large 
Kaucepan,  witij  hay  l)etvveeii  to  prevent  their 
tonchino  ;  put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and 
fill  it  witii  water.  When  ihe  water  is  near 
boiling,  take  it  off  and  let  it  stand  till  the 
Ijottles  are  cold ;  then  put  them  in  a  cellar, 
without  touching  each  other,  until  wanted, 
when  they  will  be  found  as  good  to  use  as 
frej^h  fruit.  The  apricots  may  also  ber  pre- 
served whole  by  th<?  same  means. 

APRICOTS  IN  BRANDY.  Choose 
your  apricots  when  (jiiite  ripe,  let  them  l)e 
fiee  from  spots,  rub  them  carefully  with  a 
linen  chith,  to  take  off  the  down.  Weigh 
your  fruit,  and  to  each  pound  put  a  (|narter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar.  Clarify  il,  and  boil  it 
to  the  degree  grand  perle,  then  put  in  the 
apricots:  boil  them  three  or  four  times,  tak- 
ing care  to  tarn  them  frequently,  that  they 
luay  take  the  sugar  in  nil  parts.  Take  them 
off  the  fire,  and  put  them  one  by  one  into 
glass  botdt's;  the  sirup  being  by  this  time  I 
nearly  col  I,  pour  the  brandy  (three  demise- 
tiers  to  eacii  pound)  into  it  by  degrees,  stir- 
ring constantly  to  mix  it  well  with  the  sirup. 
When  thoroughly  incorporated,  pour  it  into 
the  bottles,  the  fruit  at  first  will  float;  but 
\\hen  the  brandy  and  sugar  have  soaked  in 
they  will  sink  to  the  bottom;  tliey  are  then 
fit  to  eat. 

APRICOT      COMPOTE,      GREEN. 

Green  apricots  are  done  exactly  tlie  same  as 
green  almonds.     See  Almonds. 

APRlCOT  COMPOTE.  Peel,  cut, 
and  take  the  stones  from  your  fruit,  and  put 
them  on  th.e  fire  in  a  little  water,  and  when 
they  rise  they  are  sufficiently  done,  and  may 
be  taken  out,  cooled,  and  drained.  Then 
put  them  into  a  little  clarified  sugar  and  give 
them  three  or  four  boilings;  skim  them  well, 
and  iluMi  put  yom-  fruit  aside;  boil  the  sugar 
alone  f  )ur  or  five  times  more,  and  pour  it 
over  the  apricots.  When  cold  place  them 
in  the  compotier. 

APRICOT  CONSERVE.  Take  half- 
ripe  ajiiicots,  peel  and  cut  them  into  thin 
slices,  dry  them  over  a  gentle  fire;  to  four 
ounces  of  fruit  put  one  pound  of  sugar,  boil- 
ed to  tl/e  degree  la  plume  forte;  when  the 
sugar  is  nearly  cold  put  in  ihe  fruit,  taking 
rare  to  t.  *'  it  well  with  a  spoon,  that  they 
may  be  w^ll  incorporated. 

APRICOTS  PARISIEN.  Take  five 
dozen  very  fine  apricots,  cut  them  in  half, 
and  put  them,  a  few  at  a  time,  over  the  fire, 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  fair  glasses 
of  water;  as  soon  as  you  find  the  peel  will 


come  ofT  easily,  take  them  out  and  drain 
them,  and  put  fi-esh  apricots  into  the  sirup, 
and  proceed  the  same  until  all  are  pealed, 
then  reduce  the  sirup  to  the  usual  consis- 
tence. Put  a  pound  of  rice,  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  the  same  of  sugar,  on  which  grat& 
the  zestes  of  four  lemons,  a  little  salt,  eight 
or  nine  glasses  of  milk,  and  three-quarters 
,of  a  pound  of  raisins,  into  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  boils  take  it  from  the  fire  and  put  it 
on  hot  cinders,  stirring  it  occasionally  for 
an  hour,  when,  if  the  rice  be  quite  soft,  mix 
the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  with  it- 

APRICOTS  IN  JELLY.  Pare  and 
stone  \'our  apricot*!,  scald  them  a  little,  lay 
them  in  a  pan,  and  cover  them  with  clari- 
fied sugar;  next  day  drain  the  sirup,  and 
boil  it  smooth,  then  add  the  apricots  and 
boil  together;  the  following  day  make  a 
jelly  with  codlings,  boiling  some  apricots 
among  them,  to  give  a  better  flavor.  When 
the  jelly  is  done  put  in  the  other  fruit  with 
the  sirup,  and  lx>il  altogether,  skim  it  well 
and  put  it  in  glasses. 

APRICOT  MARMALADE.  Peel  the 
apricots,  and  take  out  the  stones ;  to  each 
pound  of  fruit  put  diree-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  clarified  sugar,  boil  it  tovthe  degree  gro9 
boulet,  then  put  in  tlie  apricots,  boil  both  to- 
gether: when  it  flows  readily  it  may  be  put 
into  pots. 

APRICOT  RATAFIA.  Peel  and  cut 
into  pieces  as  many  ripe  apricots  as  you 
may  require,  and  boil  them  in  white  wine 
(about  a  pint  to  four  dozen;)  strain  and 
mix  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  brandy; 
put  the  whole  into  a  jar,  with  the  kernels 
bruised,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  each  pint.  Let  it  infuse  for  three  weeks, 
then  filter  and  bottle  it. 

APRICOT  SWEETMEAT,  whole 
AND  DRY.  Choose  fine  firm  apricots ,  make 
a  little  opening  at  the  top  to  take  out  the 
stone,  put  them  into  cold  water,  then  blanch 
them  over  the  fire;  when  they  begin  to  boil, 
take  out  those  which  are  soft,  throw  them 
into  cold  water,  and  drain  them.  In  the 
meantime,  prepare  some  clarified  sugar  to 
petit  lisse.  When  it  boils  put  in  the  apri- 
cots, and  boil  up  a  few  times  together.  The 
next  day  separate  the  sugar  fiom  the  fiuit, 
boil  d  la  nappe,  and  then  pour  it  over  the 
apricots  again ;  the  following  day  Iwil  the  su- 
gar ^Jefii  jaer/e,  then  add  the  fruit,  and  boil 
together;  the  fourth  day  drain  tliem ;  and, 
having  placed  them  on  iron  [)lates,  sprinkle 
them  with  sugar  before  you  put  tliem  into 
the  stove  to  dry ;  when  dry,  place  in  boxes 
in  layers,  [-Jacing  a  sheet  of  pajier  between 
each  layer. 


BAR 


260 


BAR 


B. 


BADIANE,  INDIAN.  Take  a  pound 
of  starred  anise,  pound  and  infuse  it  in  six 
quarts  of  good  brandy  for  a  week,  when 
add  to  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and 
distil  it.  Dissolve  seven  pounds  and  a 
half  of  sugar  in  seven  pints  of  water,  and 
add  it  to  the  distilled  liqueur.  Stir  it  well, 
strain  and  bottle  it.  This  is  also  called 
Badiane  Cream.  Some  persons  color  it 
with  a  little  cochineal,  it  is  then  called  Oil 
of  Badiane. 

BALM  WINE.  Boil  twenty  pounds  of 
lump  sugar  in  four  gallons  and  a  half  of 
water  gently  for  an  hour,  and  put  it  in  a 
tub  to  cool.  Bruise  two  pounds  of  the 
tops  of  green  balm,  and  put  them  into  a 
barrel  with  a  little  new  yeast,  and  when 
the  sirup  is  nearly  cold  pour  it  on  the 
balm.  Stir  it  well  together,  and  lei  it 
stand  f  vventy-four  hours,  stirring  frequently ; 
bring  it  up,  and  wlien  it  has  stood  for  six 
weeks,  bottle  it.  Put  a  lump  of  sugar  into 
each  bottle ;  cork  it  tight.  The  longer  it 
is  kept  the  better  it  will  be. 

BALSAM,  SIRUP  OF.  Put  an  ounce 
of  balsam  of  tolu  into  a  quart  of  spring  wa- 
ter, and  boil  them  two  hours;  add  a  pound 
of  white  pounded  sugar-candy,  and  boil  it 
half  an  hour  longer.  Take  out  the  bal- 
sam, and  strain  the  sirup  twice;  when  cold, 
bottle  it. 

BARBADOES  CREAM.  Take  the 
zests  of  three  fine  cedrats,  two  drachms  of 
cinnamon,  and  two  of  mace,  and  put  them 
into  three  quarts  of  brandy  ;  close  the  ves- 
sel hermetically,  and  let  it  infuse  for  a 
week,  then  distil  it  in  an  alembic.  Dis- 
solve over  the  fire  three  pounds  of  sugar  in 
a  quart  of  pure  river  water,  add  to  it  half  a 
pound  of  orange-flower  water,  work  the 
mixture,  and  filter  it  through  a  straining 
bag  into  bottles  for  use. 

BARBADOES  WATER.  Take  the 
outer  rind  of  eight  large  florenline  citrons, 
half  an  ounce  of  bruised  cinnamon,  and  a 
gallon  of  rectified  spirit;  distil  in  the  bain 
marie;  dissolve  two  pounds  of  sugar  in  a 
quart  of  water ;  mix  it  with  the  distilled 
liquor  ;  filter  and  bottle  it  for  use. 

BARBADOES  WATER  AMBER- 
COLORED.  Infuse  the  yellow  rind  of 
six  bergamots,  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon, 
and  two  draclims  of  doves  bruised,  for  six 


days  in  a  gallon  of  rectified  spirit;  then 
add  a  drachm  of  saffron,  and  let  the  whole 
stand  six  days  longer.  Dissolve  two  pounds 
of  sugar  in  a  quart  of  water,  add  it  to  the 
infusion,  and  filter  for  use. 

BARBERRY  BISCUITS.  Press  the 
juice  through  a  sieve  from  two  pounds  of 
barberries,  and  mix  with  it  five  pounds  of 
sifted  sugar ;  whisk  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
and  add  them  to  the  fruit ;  prepare  some 
square  paper  cases,  fill  them  with  the  jam, 
make  them  quite  smooth,  lay  them  on 
sieves,  and  put  them  into  a  stove,  and  let 
them  remain  six  or  eight  days.  When 
peifectly  dry,  take  away  the  papers  :  keep 
them  in  a  dry  place. 

BARBERRIES,  TO  CANDY.  Take 
the  barberries  out  of  the  preserve,  and 
wash  off  the  sirup  in  warm  water ;  then 
sift  over  them  some  fine  sugar,  and  set 
them  in  an  oven,  often  moving  them,  and 
strewing  sugar  upon  them  until  they  are  dry. 

BARBERRY    DROPS.      Cut   off  the 

black  tops,  and  roast  the  fruit  before  the 
fire  till  soft  enough  to  pulp  with  a  silver 
spoon  through  a  sieve  into  a  china  basin, 
then  set  the  basin  in  a  saucepan  of  water 
the  size  of  the  top  of  the  basin,  and  stir 
the  barberries  till  they  become  thick. 
When  cold,  put  to  every  pint,  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  the  best  sugar  pounded  as  fine  as 
possible.  Beat  the  fruit  and  sugar  together 
for  two  hours  and  a  half  (or  more  for  a 
large  quantity),  then  drop  it  on  sheets  of 
white  thick  paper.  If,  when  you  drop,  it 
runs,  there  is  not  sugar  enough,  and  it  will 
look  rough  if  you  put  too  much. 

BARBERRY  ICE.  Put  some  barber- 
ries into  a  pan  without  water,  set  it  over 
a  gentle  fire,  stirring  them  constantly; 
when  warm,  pass  them  through  a  sieve, 
into  a  pan,  add  to  the  liquor  clarified  sugar  j 
if  too  thick,  put  a  little  water,  but  no  lem- 
on-juice, as  the  barberries  are  sufficiently 
acid  without;  then  put  it  into  the  sabotiere 
to  congeal. 

BARBERRY   ICE   CREAM.      Put  a 

large  spoonful  of  barberry  jam  into  a  pint 
of  cream  ;  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a 
little  cochineal ;  stir  it  well,  and  finish  as 
directed,  see  Ice. 

BARBERRY  ICE  WATER.    Mix  one 

spoonful  of  barberi-y  jam  with  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  little  coch- 
ineal; pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  freeze  it; 
take  care  that  it  is  thick  and  smooth  be- 
fore you  put  in  moulds. 


BAR 


261 


BER 


BARBERRY  MARCHPANE.  Take 
three  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  a  pound  of  bar- 
berries ;  pound  the  ahnonds  to  a  paste,  mix 
them  with  the  sugar  boiled  to  petit  boule, 
and  then  add  tlie  juice  of  the  barberries 
strained;  stir  them  together  well,  and  place 
them  on  hot  ashes,  stirring  them  continual- 
ly until  tlie  paste  is  formed ;  then  put  it  on 
a  table  sprinkled  witli  sugar  and  let  it  cool; 
spread  it  out  about  the  thickness  of  a  crown 
piece,  cut  it  into  various  forms,  place  them 
on  sheets  of  paper,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  and  glaze  them.  You  may 
use  any  other  fruit  you  think  proper. 

BARBERRY     PASTILE.       Dissolve 

half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon  in  a  glass  of 
water,  strain  it  in  a  cloth  or  bag,  and  put 
it  into  a  mortar,  with  a  spoonful  of  bar- 
berry marmalade;  mix  it  well,  and  add  as 
much  powder-sugar  as  will  make  it  into  a 
malleable  paste ;  you  may  also  put  in  a  lit- 
tle cochineal  dissolved ;  form  .it  into  what 
shapes  you  please  > 

BARBERRIES     PRESERVED     IN 

Bunches,  Choose  those  barberries  which 
have  the  largest  seeds,  which  may  be  ex- 
tracted carefully  with  the  nib  of  a  pen. 
Weigh  your  fruit,  and  mix  it  with  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar  boiled  to  petit  boule; 
boil  them  together  two  or  three  times,  and 
skim  it.  Set  it  aside  in  an  earthen  vessel 
until  the  next  day,  when  it  may  be  put  in 
pots  and  covered. 

BARBERRY  WAFERS.  Press  oyt 
the  juice  from  as  many  barberries  as  you 
may  require,  and  mix  it  with  powder-su- 
gar, anfl  the  white  of  one  egg,  and  stir  it 
up  with  a  wooden  or  silver  spoon,  to  a 
fine  jjaste.  Lay  a  sheet  of  wafer  paper  on 
a  baking  plate,  and  spread  your  paste  over 
it  very  thin  with  a  knife;  cut  it  into  twelve 
pieces,  and  put  them  round  a  stick  (the 
paste  upwards)  in  a  hot  stove  to  curl ;  when 
half  curled,  take  them  off  carefully,  and  set 
them  up  endways  in  a  sieve ;  let  them  stand 
for  a  whole  day  in  a  hot  stove. 

BARBERRY  WATER.  Put  two  large 
spoonfuls  of  barberry  jam,  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  a  gill  of  sirup  in  a  basin,  and 
dilute  it  with  water;  add  a  little  cochineal, 
{ind  if  not  rich  enough,  more  sirup;  strain 
it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

BARLEY  SUGAR.  Clarify  two  pounds 
of  sugar,  and  boil  it  to  caramel  height,  in 
ji  deep  copper  ve.-jsel  with  a  lip  ;  pour  it  in 
straight  lines  about  an  inch  thick,  on  a 
maible  slab  previously  rubbed  with  butter. 
Whilst  hot,  take  each  end  of  the  strips  of 


sugar  and  twist  it;  when  cold  cut  it  into 
proper  lengths  and  put  them  by  in  glasses. 
They  must  be  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

BARLEY  SUGAR  DROPS.  Proceed 
as  for  barley  sugar.  Have  ready  a  large 
sheet  of  white  paper,  covered  with  a  smooth 
layer  of  sifted  sugar.  Pour  out  the  boiled 
sugar  in  drops  the  size  of  a  shilling;  when 
cold,  fold  them  separately  in  paper,  a  few 
drops  of  the  essence  of  ginger  or  lemon  will 
improve  the  flavor. 

BARLEY  SIRUP.  Make  of  a  pound  of 
barley  three  quarts  of  barley  water ;  strain 
out  the  barley,  and  put  to  the  water  a  hand- 
ful of  scabious,  tormentil,  hyssop,  agrimony, 
horehound,  maiden  hair,  sanicle,  betons, 
burage,  buglose,  rosemary,  marigolds,  sage, 
violets  and  cowslips,  of  each  a  pint,  when 
picked;  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned,  half 
a  pound  of  figs  cut,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
dates  stoned;  half  a  pound  of  green  licjuor- 
ice,  caraway,  fennel  and  aniseed,  of  each 
one  ounce,  hartshorn,  ivy,  elecam{)ane 
roots,  of  each  an  ounce;  the  roots  of  fen- 
nel, asparagus,  couchgrass,  poli|io(iium, 
and  oak  parsley,  of  each  a  handful  :  clean, 
bruise  the  seeds,  slice  the  roots,  and  put  all 
into  the  barley  water,  cover  close,  and 
boil  gently  for  twelve  hours ;  then  strain 
and  press  out  the  juice,  and  let  it  stand 
twenty-four  hours ;  when  clear,  add  to  it 
rose  water  and  hyssop,  half  a  pint  of  each, 
and  a  pint  of  clarified  juice  of  coltsfoot,  a 
drachm  of  safl'ron,  three  pints  of  the  best 
honey,  and  as  many  pounds  of  sugar  as 
quarts  of  liquor,  boil  this  an  hour  and  a 
half,  keeping  it  clean  scummed,  then  bot- 
tle it,  cork  it  well,  and  put  by  for  use. 

BARLEY  WATER.  Put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  pearl-barley  into  two  quarts 
of  water,  let  it  boil,  skim  it  ver}'  clean, 
boil  half  away,  and  strain  it  off.  Sweeten 
according  to  taste,  and  put  in  two  glasses 
of  white  wine,  or  some  lemon-juice.  Drink 
it  warm. 

BERGAMOT  DROPS.  Mix  the  juice 
of  four  or  five  lemons,  and  some  sifted  su- 
gar, with  a  wooden  spoon;  add  to  this 
twenty  drops  of  essence  of  bergamot ;  mix 
it  well  in,  and  having  stirred  it  over  the 
fire  three  or  four  minutes,  drop  it  about 
the  size  of  a  sixpence  on  writing  paper, 
and  let  them  stand  till  cold. 

BERGAMOT  WAFERS.  Squeeze 
six  lenions  into  a  basin,  and  mix  some 
sifted  sugar,  essence  of  bergamot,  and  the 
white  of  an  egg,  with  the  juice;  beat 
them  together  till  very  white ;  if  it  becomea 
too  thick,  add  tlie  juice  of  another  lemon  i 


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spread  your  paste,  and  dry  them  as  bar- 
berry wafers. 

BERGAMOT  WATER.  To  the  rinds 
of  three  bergamots,  put  a  gallon  of  proof 
spirit,  and  two  quarts  of  water;  draw  off 
one  gallon  by  the  bain  marie,  and  sweeten 
witli  sugar. 

BERGAMOT  WATER.  Take  three 
gills  of  sirup,  the  juice  of  six  lemons,  and 
when  diluted  sufficiently  with  water,  add 
a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  bergamot. 
Strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  for  use. 

BERGAMOT  WATER  ICE.  Stir 
together  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  two  gills 
of  sirup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  bergamot,  strain 
and  freeze  it. 

BETONY,  CONSERVE  OF.  Take 
a  pound  of  betony,  three  jwunds  of  lotf  su- 
gar, beat  them  in  a  stone  mortar;  buil  the 
sugar  with  two  quarts  of  betony  water  to 
the  thickness  of  a  sirup,  then  mix  them  to- 
gether by  little  and  little,  over  a  gentle 
fire,  make  it  into  a  conserve,  and  keej)  it  in 
glasses. 

BISCUITS.  Lay  the  rind  of  a  lemon 
in  boiling  water,  till  it  l)e  tender;  take  half. 
a  pound  of  sweet  almmds,  and  blanoh  them 
in  cold  water,  and  two  ounces  of  gum-drag- 
on, which  soak  in  fair  water;  tlum  pound 
the  almonds,  putting  in  as  you  pound,  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  hollow;  pound 
the  lemon  in  a  stone  mortar  by  itself,  and 
put  the  gum  and  the  lemon  into  the  almonds, 
and  mix  them  well  together;  then  beat  a 
pound  of  fine  sugar  in  a  mortar  with  the  al- 
monds, gum  and  lemon,  and  afterwards  add 
t\vo  pounds  more  of  fine  sugar,  stirring  it 
with  a  spoon,  then  roll  it  up  in  litile  rolls, 
and  lay  them  upon  white  papers,  and  set 
tliem  in  the  oven, 

BISCUITS  IN  CASES.  Prepare 
your  mixture  the  same  as  for  spoon  biscuits, 
and  fill  some  little  round  or  square  cases 
with  it.  Tlien  with  the  rolling  pin  crush 
some  fine  sugar,  but  not  to  a  poyvder,  and 
strew  it  over  your  biscuits,  which  place  on 
a  cop{)er  plate,  and  when  the  sugar  begins 
to  dissolve  put  them  in  a  gentle  oven,  at  the 
mouth  of  which  put  a  shovel  full  of  burning 
coals  to  crystallize  the  sugar;  and  when  that 
assumes  the  appearance  of  little  pearls,  re- 
move the  coals  and  close  the  oven.  These 
biscuits  will  require  from  twenty  to  fwenty- 
five  minutes  baking. 

BISCUITS  ICED.  Beat  up  the  vyhite 
of  eight,  and  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  with  a 


pound  of  fine  nowdered  sugar,  for  two  hours. 
Have  ready  fourteen  ounces  of  well-dried 
sifted  flour  ;  when  the  oven  is  ready  and 
your  plates  buttered,  mix  the  flour  as  quick 
as  possible  with  tiie  eggs,  &c.,  and  lay  the 
biscuits  on  the  plates  ;  you  may  add  a  little 
musk  and  ambergi-is.     Bake  in  a  quick  oven, 

BISCUIT,  ITALIAN.  Bake  a  biscuit, 
made  like  Iced  biscuit,  in  a  plain,  round 
mould  ;  cut  it  across,  in  slices  an  inch 
thick  ;  pour  on  each  slice  a  spoonful  of  true 
maras(!hino,  and  wiien  they  have  ijnbibed 
this,  place  them  in  their  proper  form,  and 
mask  the  whole,  either  with  white  of  egg  and 
sugar,  as  biscuit  with  sweetmeats,  or  with 
apricot  marmalade,  on  which  strew  pounded 
macaroons. 

BISCUITS  OF  ITALIAN  WATER. 

Whisk  up  six  eggs,  and  an  equal  weight  of 
powder-sugar,  for  half  an  hour.  Take  six 
more  eg:^s  and  I  heir  weight  of  flour,  and  mix 
all  togedier,  and  lay  this  mixture  on  pa|)er,  i« 
cakes  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  about 
two  inches  diameter  ;  lay  them  quite  flat, 
and  do  not  let  them  touch.  The  oven  should 
be  h(jt;  five  minutes  will  bake  Uiem.  When 
cold,  wet  the  unrier  side  of  tlie  paper,  and 
they  will  then  remove  easily. 

BISCUITS,  JUDGES.  Break  six 
eggs  into  a  basin,  and  whisk  them  well 
for  five  minutes,  add  half  a  pound  of  pow- 
der-sugar, and  whisk  again  for  ten  minutes 
longer;  put  some  caraway-seeds  and  half 
a  pound  of  dry  sifted  flour ;  mix  them  all 
together  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Droptliem 
on  pa|)er  about  the  size  of  a  crown-piece, 
and  thick  in  the  middle ;  sift  sugar  over, 
and  bake  them  in  a  brick  oven.  Take 
them  off  the  paper  while  hot. 

BISCUITS,  LIGHT.  Take  ten  eggs, 
put  the  yolks  of  five  in  a  pan  with  a  few 
crisped  orange- flowers,  the  peel  of  a  greeo 
lemon,  both  shied  fine,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar;  beat  the  whole 
together  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  well 
mixed  with  the  eggs.  Beat  tlie  ten  whites 
to  a  froth,  and  add  to  the  sugar,  stir  in 
lightly,  and  by  degrees,  six  ounces  of  flour, 
put  them  into  buttered  moulds,  powdering 
them  with  fine  sugar,  and  bake  tliem  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

BISCUITS,  MANQUES.  Put  into  an 
earUien  pan  half  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butler,  the  same  of  pounded 
almonds,  a  little  salt,  and  some  orange- 
flower  water,  six  yolks,  and  two  whole 
eggs  ;  l)eat  up  tliese  ingredients  well  j  whip 
the   six   whites,  and  mix   them   gradually 


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263 


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with  the  above  preparation  ;  make  a  paper 
case,  butler  and  pour  in  it  your  biscuit 
paste  and  bake  it.  Meanwhile  cut  some 
almonds  into  either  dice  or  slips,  mix  them 
with  some  powder-sugar  and  white  of  egg; 
when  the  biscuit  manques  is  about  three 
parts  done,  dorez  and  cover  it  with  this 
latter  mixture ;  then  replace  it  in  the  oven 
and  finish  baking.  As  soon  as  it  is  done, 
take  it  out  and  cut  it  into  whatever  forms 
your  fancy  may  dictate. 

BISCUITS,  MARBLED.  Make  twen- 
ty-four eggs,  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  and 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted 
flour,  into  a  biscuit  paste,  as  directed  for 
Spoon  Biscuits)  then  beat  four  ounces 
of  dissolved  chocolate  in  an  earthen  pan, 
and  add  to  it  a  third  of  the  paste;  when  it 
is  well  mixed,  divide  it  in  half,  and  to  one 
half  mix  a  quarter  of  the  biscuit-paste,  which 
will  tinge  that  portion  a  light  chocolate  col- 
or. After  this,  mix  together  some  vegeta- 
ble red  and  infusion  of  saffron  to  color  half 
the  remaining  paste  orange;  then  divide 
that  again,  and  mix  the  last  quarter  with 
half  the  orange-color,  thus  your  paste  will 
be  colored  with  two  shades  of  chocolate 
and  two  of  orange. 

Make  two  paper  cases,  each  eight  inch- 
es square  and  three  high,  pour  into  one  of 
these  a  large  spoonful  of  the  chocolate- 
paste,  and  when  it  has  spread  over  the  bot- 
tom of  the  case,  pour  in  one  of  the  orange- 
colored,  on  which  another  of  the  chocolate, 
and  so  on,  alternately,  until  the  case  is  half 
full ;  then  sprinkle  it  with  flour,  and  piit  it 
into  a  slow  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hmir.  Put  the  remainder  of  your  biscuit- 
paste  (both  colors)  into  a  pan  and  stir  them 
together  with  a  spoon  till  the  whole  is 
veined,  or  clouded  with  the  two  colors ;  pour 
it  into  the  other  case,  sprinkle  it  with  flour 
and  bake  like  the  former;  when  quite  cold, 
cut  them  into  slices  about  two  inches  thick, 
half  of  which  should  be  broken,  and  the  oUier 
half  cut  in  pieces  of  an  equal  size,  lay  them 
on  a  baking-plate,  and  dry  them  in  the  oven. 
These  are  generally  used  to  make  the  rocks 
in  ornamental  pastry,  and  may  be  colored 
with  the  usual  materials,  according  to  your 
fancy. 

BISCUITS,  MARCHPANE.  Beat  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds  to  a  very  fine 
paste,  moisten  them  with  water,  then  put 
them  and  a  pound  of  powder-sugar  into  a 
saucepan,  over  a  clear  but  not  fierce  char- 
coal fire,  stirring  constantly,  till  the  paste 
leaves  adhere  together ;  put  it  on  a  floured 
slab,  and  work  it  well  with  your  hands  for 
some  time,  then  roll  small  pieces  of  it  about 
three  inches  long  and  half  the  thickness  of 
your  little  finger,  join  the  ends  of  each  and 


make  them  mto  round  rings,  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  in  a  dry  warm  place  for  two  or  three 
days.  When  wanted,  mix  some  powder- 
sugar  widi  the  whites  of  eight  eggs,  and 
beat  them  with  a  wooden  spoon  in  each 
hand ;  add  a  cup  of  orange-flower  water. 
Put  your  rings  into  this  icing,  and  cover 
them  completely ;  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of 
paper  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  the 
icing  sets  and  they  Fiegin  to  change  color. 
Do  not  remove  them  fiom  the  paper  till  cold . 

BISCUITS,  MILLEFRUIT.       Take 

preserved  orange  and  lemon-peel,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  each,  §ix  ounces  of  angel- 
ica, the  same  of  sweet,  and  one  ounce  of 
bitter  almonds ;  cut  all  the  aboVe  ingredients 
into  pieces  half  an  inch  long  and  a  quarter 
wide.  Make  an  icing  with  white  of  eggs, 
sugar  and  orange-flower  water  ;  put  the  al- 
monds, &Ci  into  this,  and  having  paper  on 
your  baking-tin,  lay  the  cakes  on  it,  of 
whatever  size  you  please ;  then  with  a  hair 
pencil  touch  them  here  and  there  with  a 
little  cochineal.  Bake  tiiem,  but  not  in  too 
hot  an  oven. 

BISCUITS,  MONKEY.  Take  the 
vveight  of  six  eggs  in  powder-sugar,  and 
mix  it  with  the  yolks  and  a  little  pounded 
cinnamon;  whisk  the  whites  to  a  firm  froth, 
and  stir  them  lightly  into  the  yolks;  add 
four  \vhole  eggs,  and  their  weight  of  dry 
sifted  flour,  mix  them  well  together;  take 
this  mixture  in  a  spoon,  and  lay  it  in  about 
the  size  of  a  half-crown  piece  on  paper, 
join  two  together  with  the  spoon,  and  when 
your  paper  is  full,  sprinkle  powder-sugar 
over  and  bake  them ;  a  few  minutes  will  do 
them.  Remove  them  from  the  paper  while 
hot  and  put  tlie  two  undersides  together. 

BISCUITS,  PRINCESS     AMELIA. 

Put  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  into  an  earth- 
en pan,  whisk  them  to  a  thick  snow,  and 
add  to  them  eight  ounces  of  double  refined 
sugar,  pounded  and  sifted;  having  mixed 
them,  put  in  three  ounces  of  flour,  and  three 
of  powder-sugar  sifted,  the  grated  rind  of 
one  or  two  lemons  and  half  a  coffee  cup  of 
orange-flower  watei",  stir  them  well  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  but  take  care  not  to  spoil  the 
snow:  drop  them  on  paper  of  a  larger  size 
than  the  sweet  biscuits,  and  bake  them  to 
a  clear  brown  in  a  moderate  oven.  Take 
them  from  the  paper  while  hot. 

BISCUITS,  SAVOY.  Whip  twelve 
whites  of  eggs  to  a  snow;  beat  the  yolks 
with  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  powder-sugar, 
mix  them  together,  with  three-cjuarters  of  a 
pound  of  flour  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lem- 
on, into  a  paste,  rub  your  mould  with  melted 
butter,  and  bake  it. 


BIS 


264 


BIS 


BISCUITS,  LARGE  SAVOY.  Take 
fifly-?ix  eggs,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  tlie  zes- 
tes  of  four  oranges,  a  pound  and  three-quar- 
ters of  potatoe-flour  sifted ;  and  make  your 
biscuit  as  follows:  grate  tlie  zestes  of  tiie 
oranges  on  a  piece  of  sugar,  and  as  soon  as 
it  becomes  colored,  scrape  it  off,  and  grate 
again  until  all  the  zeste  is  done,  then  dry 
tlie  sugar  perfectly,  crush  and  sift  it. 

Break  your  eggs  one  by  one,  (taking  care 
that  all  are  perfectly  fresh ; )  put  the  yolks 
and  whites  into  separate  vessels ;  mix  half 
your  sugar  with  the  former,  stirring  it  in 
with  a  spatula  until  perfectly  smooth,  then 
add  the  remainder,  and  work  it  well  for 
twenty  minutes.  Whip  the  whites  till  quite 
firm,  putting  in  a  small  quantity  of  pounded 
alum;  when  sufficiently  whipped,  which 
may  be  known  by  little  points  rising  when 
the  whisk  is  taken  out;  mix  a  little  with 
the  yolks;  still,  however,  keeping  the  whites 
stirring;  then  pour  tSe  yolks  on  them  very 
gently  mixing  them  together  as  you  pour, 
with  the  whisk:  sift  over  the  whole  a  pound 
of  potatoe-flour,  stirring  the  mixture  all  the 
time;  when  ready  to  put  into  the  mould, 
your  paste  should  be  very  smooth,  and  some- 
what of  the  consistence  of  treacle.  Butter 
the  mould,  and  put  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
your  paste  at  first,  to  prevent  any  globules 
of  air  appearing  on  the  top  when  baked; 
pour  in  the  remainder  carefully.  Cover  a 
baking-plate  with  hot  ashes,  lay  the  mould 
in  the  midst  of  ihem,  and  place  it  in  a  mod- 
erate oven;  keep  it  open  for  an  hour,  that 
the  biscuit  may  be  watched,  and  if  it  takes 
color  too  quickly,  cover  it  with  paper.  In 
three  hours  tirne  take  it  from  the  oven,  and 
if  it  he  of  a  good  color,  and  firm,  turn  it  on 
a  baking-tin,  tie  round  it  a  band  of  double 
pa|ier,  and  replace  it  in  die  oven  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  to  dry. 

IBID,  WITH  ALMONDS.      The  in- 

gredients  for  this  biscuit  are  the  same  as 
above,  with  the  addition  of  four  eggs,  and 
half  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds:  blanch  the 
almonds,  then  wash,  drain,  and  dry  them  in 
a  napkin ;  pound  them  with  whites  of  eggs 
in  the  usual  way,  to  a  fine  paste,  pass  it 
tlirough  a  sieve,  and  then  mix  it  with  the 
additional  eggs;  add  this  to  the  sugar  and 
yolks,  and  proceed  as  above. 

BISCUITS,  SPICE.  Take  three 
pounds  of  flour,  three  pounds  of  almonds,  cut 
in  half,  three  ounces  of  cinnamon  and  mace 
pounded,  and  one  pound  of  powder-sugar; 
mix  them  all  together  on  your  slab;  boil 
three  pounds  of  Lisbon  sugar  with  some  wa- 
ter ;  make  the  above  ingredients  into  a  paste 
with  this,  and  roll  it  to  the  size  of  a  large 
rolling-pin;  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  flat 
it  down  a  little  with  your  hand,  keeping  it 


higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the  ends;  put 
it  into  a  very  hot  oven ;  when  done,  take  it 
out,  and  while  hot,  cut  it  across,  in  slices  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  dry  diem. 

BISCUITS,  FINE  SPONGE.    Breiik 

twelve  eggs,  separate  the  yolks  and  whites; 
to  the  former  put  tliree  (j^iarters  of  a  pound 
of  powder-sugar,  stir  them  well  with  a  wood- 
en spoon,  till  it  rises  in  large  bladders; 
whisk  the  whites  to  a  very  firm  fiotii,  and 
then  mix  them  very  lightly  with  the  yolks 
and  sugar,  and  when  incorporated,  add  ten 
ounces  of  fine  dried  and  sifted  flour.  Stir 
them  all  together  well,  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  well-buttered  tin  moulds,  sift  sugar 
over,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Take  them  from  the  tins  while  hot. 

BISCUITS,  SPOON.  Break  four  eggs, 
put  the  yolks  and  whites  into  separate 
basins;  add  to  the  former  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  powder-sugar;  having  grated  on 
it  the  zeste  of  a  lemon,  mix  these  together 
well  with  a  spatula  fur  ten  niimncs;  then 
whip  the  whites  to  a  froth,  and  put  about 
half  of  them  to  the  yolks,  and  when  that  is 
well  mixed  in,  add  the  rest;  stir  it  very 
lightly,  and  lay  them  with  a  spoon  on  paper, 
make  them  about  three  inches  long,  and  the 
breadth  of  a  finger.  Glaze  them  with  pow- 
der-sugar, and  place  them  on  baking  tins, 
add,  as  the  sugar  dissolves,  and  they  shine, 
put  the  biscuits  into  a  moderate  oven,  which 
must  be  kept  open  for  seven  or  eight  minutes 
then  close  it  until  your  biscuits  are  of  a  pro- 
per color.  Wlien  cold,  detach  them  Irom 
the  paper  with  a  thin  kniti;-blade,  and  lay 
them  by,  in  couples,  die  glazed  sides  out- 
wards, till  wanted 

BISCUITS,  SWEET.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  fine  pounded  sugar,  and  sift  it 
tlirough  a  tammy.  Put  the  whites  of  twelve 
eggs  into  a  p,reserving-pan,  and  the  yolks 
into  an  eardienware  tureen ;  whip  the  whites 
to  a  snow,  and  then  carefully  pour  on  it  the 
yolks  and  sugar;  stir  them  gently;  place 
your  pan  over  a  chafing-dish ;  continue 
whipping  the  whole  for  a  full  half  hour,  and 
then,  if  the  drop  which  falls  from  the  whisk 
lays  a  little  while  without  spreading,  take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  whisk  again  till  it  is  cold; 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  line  sifted  flour,  stir 
it  in  gently  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Drop 
them  on  paper,  sift  sugar  over,  and  bake 
them  in  a  warm  oven  until  of  a  deep  yellow; 
take  them  from  the  papers  while  warm; 
bake  them  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are 
di-opt  on  paper. 

BISCUITS,     SWEETMEAT.       Cut 

some  Naples  biscuits  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  thick,  and  an  inch  afid  a  half  s(|ua>e. 


BLA 


265 


and  just  crisp  them  in  the  oven.  Make  some 
icing  witii  whites  oreggs,  sugar,  and  orange- 
flower  water;  dip  one  side  of  tlie  bfsciiit 
into  it;  cut  some  preserved  lemon  and 
orange-peel  and  angelica  into  small  pieces ; 
strew  them  over  the  biscuits,  and  dry  the 
icing  in  the  oven. 

BISCUITS,    TOAD-IN-A-HOLE. 

Beat  a  pound  of  sweet,  and  an  ounce  and  a 
half  of  bitter  almonds  to  a  fine  smooth  paste, 
moisten  with  water,  and  mix  die  paste, 
which  should  not  be  too  thin,  with  a  pound 
and  a  c|uarter  of  white  sugar.  Lay  a  sheet 
of  writing-paper  on  your  baking-plate,  and 
wafer-pa|)er  on  that;  lay  the  biscuits  about 
the  size  of  a  half-crown  piece ;  put  a  diied 
cherry  in  the  middle  of  eacli ;  sift  sugar  over 
and  bake  diem  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
done,  cut  die  wafer-paper  round,  but  do  not 
take  it  away. 

BLACKBERRY  WINE.  Put  full  ripe 
blackberries  into  a  large  vesf^el  with  a  cock 
in  it,  pour  on  as  much  boiling  water  as 
will  cover  diem,  and  as  soon  as  the  heat 
will  permit,  bruise  them  well  with  the  hand 
till  all  the  berries  are  broken;  cover  them, 
and  in  about  three  or  four  days,  when  the  ber- 
ries rise  to  die  top,  draw  oif  the  clear  part 
into  aiiodier  vessel ;  add  to  every  ten  quarts 
of  the  liquor  one  pound  of  sugar,  stir  it  well 
in,  and  let  it  stand  a  week  or  ten  days  to 
work.  Draw  it  oiFdirough  a  jelly-bag.  Sleep 
four  ounces  of  isinglass  in  a  pint  of  sweet 
wine  fur  twelve  hours,  tlien  boil  it  slowly 
till  dissolved,  [)ut  it  in  a  gallon  of  the  black- 
beiTy  juice,  boil  them  together  and  then 
put  a"  .ogether ;  let  it  stand  a  few  days,  and 
bottle. 

BLANC-MANGE,  DUTCH.      Put    a 

pint  of  cleared  calf's-lbot  jelly  into  a  stew- 
pan ;  mix  with  it  die  yplks  of  six  eggs,  set 
it  over  a  fire,  and  whisk  till  it  begins  to 
boil;  then  set  the  pan  in  cold  water,  and  stir 
the  mixture  till  nearly  cold,  to  prevent  it 
from  curdling,  and  when  it  begins  to  thicken 
fill  the  moulds. 

BLANC-MAiNGE,  FRENCH.  Blanch 
one  pound  of  sweet,  and  a  score  of  bitter 
almonds:  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and  after- 
wards dry  them,  by  rubbing  them  in  a  nap- 
kin; pound  them  in  a  mortar,  continually 
moistening  them  with  half  a  tea-spoonful  of 
water  at  a  time,  to  prevent  their  oiling. 
When  they  are  pounded  as  fine  as  possible, 
take  them  out  of  the  mortar,  and  put  them 
into  a  pan;  then  with  a  silver  spoon,  beat 
lip  your  almonds  gradually,  with  five  glasses 
of  filtered  water;  after  this,  spread  a  napkin 
over  an  oval  dish,  and  put  your  almonds 
upon  it ;  then  gather  up  the  corners  of  your 
23 


..TTTTT  ^r  TT  V  ■  ..  r  m 

napkin,  and  «6vrmg  it  very  %ht,  lo  presa  oat ' 
all  the  milk  from  the  almonds;  then  pot 
into  this  milk,  twelve  ounces  of  ci-ystallized 
sugar,  broken  into  small  pieces;  when  the  v 
sugar  is  dissolved,  pass  the  whole  through  a 
napkin;  and  then  add  to  it  one  ounce  of 
clarified  isinglass,  rather  warmer  than  luke- 
warm; and  when  the  whole  is  well  incorpo- 
rated together,  pour  it  into  your  mould. 
Your  mould  should  be  previously  put  into 
ten  pounds  of  pounded  ice ;  when  your  blanc- 
mange is  ready  to  serve,  (which  will  be  in 
two  hours  after  it  has  been  put  into  the 
mould,)  you  must  take  it  out  of  the  mould 
according  to  the  rule  prescribed  in  Violet 
Jelly. 

BLANC-MANGE     WITH     FRUIT. 

Boil  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass,  and 
when  quite  dissolved,  strain  it.  Let  it  cool 
for  half  an  hour,  skim,  and  pour  it  free  from 
sediment  into  anodier  pan ;  dien  whisk  wiUi 
it  a  table-spoonful  of  cedraf,  and  half  a 
pound  of  currant  jelly,  strawberry,  or  rasp- 
berry jam ;  and  when  it  begins  to  jelly,  fill 
the  moulds. 

BLANC-MANGE,  without  either 
Isinglass  or  Icing.  Prepare  your 
almonds  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  re- 
ceipt for  Blanc-mange  a  la  Francaise,  but 
only  using  hall  the  quantity  specified  in  Uiat 
receipt,  and  likewise  leaving  out  the  isinglass. 
Then  put  into  a  pan  the  whiles  of  four  eggs, 
and  whip  tliein  till  they  begin  to  whiten, 
then  add  your  blanc-mange,  and  place  your 
pan  over  hot  ashes,  and  continue  to  whip 
your  preparation  until  the  egg  is  thoroughly 
mixed  with  the  almonds,  and  the  whole  be- 
gins to  turn  to  a  thick  cream ;  and  when  it 
is  of  a  proper  consistence,  pour  into  little 
cups,  and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

When  you  wish  to  serve  this  entremet 
in  little  cups,  and  of  any  flavor  you  please, 
you  must  only  make  use  of  two-Uiirds  of  the 
quantity  of  almonds,  named  in  the  receipt 
for  Blanc-mange  French. 

BOUCHEES  DE  DAMES.    Mix  with 

six  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
three  ounces  of  potato-flour,  a  little  salt, 
and  a  pinch  of  dried  orange-flowers  :  beat 
them  together  well,  and  havmg  buttered  a 
tin,  lay  your  paste  on  it,  and  bake  it  in  a 
gentle  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  when 
done,  cut  it  in  pieces,  about  the  size  of  a 
crown  piece,  and  glaze  them,  mask  them 
according  to  your  pleasure,  and  dry  them 
in  the  oven. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  GLACEES. 
Roll  some  puff  paste  to  about  tlie  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  with  a  plain  roood 
paste-cutter,  of  two  inches  diameter,  cut  out 


BOU 


266 


BUT 


as  many  cakes  as  you  may  require;  then 
with  a  smaller  cutter,  take  out  the  middle 
of  half  the  number,  so  as  to  make  rings  of 
them ;  moisten  the  edges  of  the  former,  and 
lay  the  rings  on  them;  wet  them  also  as 
you  lay  them  down,  sprinkle  them  lightly 
with  powder  sugar,  and  bake  them  in  a 
brisk  oven.  These  bouchees  require  great 
attention  in  baking,  as  the  sugar  is  apt  to 
dissolve  and  color  too  quickly  ;  when  done, 
they  should  be  of  a  reddish  tinge.  Fill 
them  with  sweatmeats,  preserves,  or  whip- 
ped cream,  according  to  fancy. 

BOUCHEES  DE  MONSIEUR.  Pound 
a  stick  of  vanilla  with  two  ounces  of  pow- 
der-sugar, and  then  sift  it;  mix  with  it 
seven  additional  ounces  of  dry  powder-su- 
gar, and  half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour;  add  to 
this  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  whipped  firm, 
and  work  them  together  till  the  paste  is 
very  smooth  and  soft.  Heat  two  copper- 
plates, rub  them  over  with  wax,  and  then 
wipe  them;  when  cold,  lay  the  paste  with 
a  knife,  in  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  filbert, 
shaded  quite  round,  leave  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  space  between  each;  when  tlie 
plates  are  full,  put  them  on  stools  in  an  oven, 
so  tliat  they  can  receive  no  heat  from  below, 
then  put  a  stove  with  hot  coals  on  the  top 
of  the  oven,  and  let  them  remain  in  this 
state  for  twenty-four  hours ;  then  put  them 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  into  a  mode- 
rate oven.  Take  them  from  the  plates 
whilst  hot,  and  as  soon  as  cold,  finish  them 
in  the  same  way  as  bouchees  de  dames; 
gJaze  them  with  chocolate,  a  la  rose,  with 
pistachios,  orange,  cedrat,  &c.  &c.  They 
may  also  be  masked  with  sugar,  pistachios, 
currants,  &c. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  MERIN- 
GUES A  UX  PISTACHES.  Make  them 
the  same  as  above,  strew  sugar  over  with- 
out wetting  the  rings,  and  bake  them  to  a 
light  color  in  a  moderate  oven.  Then  mix 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar  with 
three  whites  of  eggs,  well  whipped,  and 
mask  the  bouchees  lightly  with  it,  and 
glaze  them  with  sugar;  having  ready  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachio-nuts  blanch- 
ed, and  each  cut  across  sloping ;  place  these 
pieces  round  the  edge  of  the  bouchees  like 
a  crown ;  and  each  piece  of  the  pistachios 
being  placed  on  the  cut  side,  they  stand  out 
from  the  edge  of  the  bouchee:  this  process 
being  finished,  put  them  in  the  oven  again  a 
few  minutes,  to  color  the  egg ;  and  in  the 
meantime  stir  up  the  white  of  egg  which 
remains,  and  make  with  it  half  as  many 
meringuees  as  you  have  bouchees,  sprin- 
kle them  with  sugar,  and  color  both  sides 
of  them  in  a  slow  oven ;  and  when  the  bou- 
chees are  ready   for  table,  fill  them  with 


whipped  cream,  with  pistachios,  and  cofter 
each  with  half  a  meringue. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  PERLEES. 

Your  bouchees  being  made  and  baked  as 
above,  whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a 
firm  froth,  and  mix  them  with  four  spoon- 
fuls of  sifted  sugar,  and  when  very  smooth, 
mask  your  bouchees  with  it:  then  take 
some  white  of  egg,  and  with  the  point  of  a 
knife,  drop  them  in  pearls  about  the  size  of 
a  grape-stone,  round  each  bouchee,  half  an 
inch  apart,  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  sugar, 
and  dry  the  egg  in  the  oven,  taking  care 
tney  do  not  lose  their  whiteness. 

When  cold,  place  between  each  pearl  a 
smaller  one  of  red-currant  jelly.  Fill  your 
bouchees  with  apricot  marmalade,  apple- 
jelly,  &c. ;  i<^  however,  the  jelly,  or  what- 
ever else  you  may  use,  be  of  a  red  color, 
your  intermediate  pearls  should  be  composed 
of  ligiit-colored  preserve,  such  as  apricot 
marmalade,  &c.  These  should  be  pearled 
a  few  at  a  time  only. 

BOUCHEES      PETITES,    PRALI- 

NEES.  Having  prepared  the  bouchees  as 
usual,  dorez  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  when  they  are  of  the  proper  color, 
mask  them  with  whites  of  eggs  mixed  with 
sugar,  and  almonds  minced  very  small;  re- 
place them  in  the  oven  a  minute  or  two, 
and  then  strew  red,  or  any  other  colored 
sugar  on  them,  but  not  so  thick  as  to  cover 
the  almonds  entirely.  Fill  the  bouchees 
as  usual. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  a  la 
Reine.  The  same  as  above,  only  the 
paste  must  be  cut  thicker,  and  liefore  you 
dorez,  let  them  stand  a  few  minutes.  Bake 
in  a  brisk  oven. 

BUCKTHORN,  SIRUP  OF.  (1)  Gath- 
er the  berries  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  set 
in  an  earthen  vessel  in  the  oven ;  squeeze  out 
the  juice,  and  for  each  peck  of  berries  put 
two  pounds  of  white  sugar,  and  boil  them 
together  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  let  it  cool, 
and  then  bottle  it. 

BUCKTHORN,  SIRUP  OF.  (2)  Take 
three  quarts  of  the  juice  of  clarified  buck- 
thorn berries,  and  four  pounds  of  brown 
sugar;  make  them  into  a  sirup  over  a  gentle 
fire,  and  while  warm,  mix  with  it  a  drachm 
of  the  distilled  oil  of  cloves,  dissolved  on  a 
lump  of  sugar.  The  true  buckthorn  may  be 
known  by  the  number  of  its  seeds,  having 
four,  tlie  alder  buckthorn  has  only  two,  and 
the  cherry  buckthorn  one  seed.  The  for- 
mer is  to  be  used. 

BUTTER,  BLACK.    Three  pounds  of 


CAN 


267 


CAP 


fruit,  currants,  gooseberries,  raspbeiTies, 
and  cherries,  to  a  pound  of  coarse  sugar, 
boiled  till  quite  tiiick.  It  must  waste  to 
half  the  quantity. 


C. 


CAKES  MADE  OF  FLOWERS.  Boil 
double  refined  sugar  to  a  candy  height,  and 
strew  in  your  flovvei-s  and  let  them  boil 
once  up;  "then,  witli  your  hand,  lightly 
strew  in  a  little  double  refined  sugar  sifted, 
and  put  it  directly  into  little  pans  raatle  of 
card,  and  pricked  full  of  holes  at  the  bot- 
tom; you  must  set  the  pans  on  a  cushion, 
and  when  they  are  cold,  take  them  out. 

CAKES,  HONEYCOMB.  Boil  your 
sugar  to  a  candy  height ;  then  put  in  your 
flowers,  which  must  be  cut;  have  little  pa- 
pers with  four  corners  ready ;  drop  some  of 
your  candy  on  the  papers,  take  them  off 
when  ready,  and  if  they  are  rightly  done, 
they  will  look  full  of  holes  like  honeycombs. 

CAKES,  LIQUORICE.  Take  hyssop 
and  red  rose  water,  of  each  half  a  pint,  half 
a  pound  of  green  liquorice,  tiie  outside 
scraped  off,  and  then  beat  with  a  pestle; 
put  to  it  half  a  pound  of  aniseeds,  and  steep 
it  all  night  in  the  water;  boil  it  with  a 
gentle  fire  till  the  taste  is  well  out  of  the 
liquorice ;  sti-ain  it,  put  to  it  three  pounds 
of  liquorice  powder,  and  set  it  on  a  gentle 
fire  till  it  is  come  to  the  thickness  of  cream; 
take  it  off,  and  put  to  it  half  a  pound  of 
white  sugar  candy  seered  very  fine;  beat 
this  well  together  for  at  least  three  liours, 
and  never  suffer  it  to  stand  still;  as  you 
beat  it,  you  must  strew  in  double-refined 
sugar  finely  seered,  at  least  three  pounds ; 
half  an  hour  before  it  is  finished,  put  in  half 
a  spoonful  of  gum  dragon,  steeped  in  or- 
ange-flower water:  when  it  is  very  white 
then  it  is  beat  enough ;  roll  it  up  with  white 
sugar;  and  if  you  want  it  perfumed,  put  in 
a  pastil  or  two. 

CANDYING.  Fruit  intended  for  can- 
dying must  be  first  preserved,  and  dried  in 
a  stove  before  the  fire,  that  none  of  the  sir- 
up may  remain  in  it.  Sugar  intended  for 
the  use  of  candying  must  be  thus  prepared: 
put  into  a  tossing-pan  a  pound  of  sugar, 
with  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  set  it  over  a 
very  clear  fire.  Take  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises;  boil  it  till  it  looks  clear  and  fine,  and 
take  out  a  little  in  a  silver  spoon.  When 
it  is  cold,  if  it  will  draw  a  thread  from 
your  spoon,  it  is  boiled  enough  for  any  kind 
of  sweetmeat.  Then  boil  your  sirup,  and 
wbea  it  begins  to  candy  round  the  edge  of 


your  pan,  it  is  candy  height.  It  is  a  gr^t 
mistake  to  put  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  into 
too  thick  a  sirup,  especially  at  the  first,  as 
it  widiers  the  fiuit,  and  botli  the  beauty  and 
flavor  are  thereby  destroyed. 

CANDY  FLOWERS.  Take  the 
best  treble-refined  sugar,  break  it  into 
lumps,  and  dip  it  piece  by  piece  into  water; 
put  them  into  a  vessel  of  silver,  and  melt 
diem  over  tlie  fire;  when  it  just  boife, 
strain  it,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  again,  and 
let  it  boil  till  it  draws  in  hairs,  which  you 
may  perceive  by  holding  up  your  spoon; 
then  put  in  the  flowers,  and  set  them  in  cups 
or  glasses.  When  it  is  of  a  hard  candy, 
break  it  in  lumps,  and  lay  it  as  high  as  you 
please.  Dry  it  in  a  stove,  or  in  the  sun, 
and  it  will  look  like  sugar-candy. 

CANDY,  ALL  SORTS  OF  FRUIT. 
When  finished  in  the  sirup,  put  a  layer  into 
a  new  sauce,  and  dip  it  suddenly  into  hot 
water,  to  take  off  the  sirup  that  hangs  about 
it;  put  it  on  a  napkin  before  the  fire  to 
drain,  and  then  do  some  more  on  the  sieve. 
Have  ready-sifted  double-refined  sugar, 
which  sift  over  the  fruit  on  all  sides,  till 
quite  white.  Set  it  on  the  shallow  end  of 
tlie  sieves  in  a  lightly-warm  oven,  and  turn 
it  two  or  three  times.  It  must  not  be  cold 
till  di-y.  Watch  it  carefully,  and  it  will  be 
beautiful. 

CANELLONS.  Make  a  stiff  paste, 
with  a  little  melted  butter,  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  water,  some  rasped  lemon-peel,  an 
egg,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  floui',  and  half 
that  quantity  of  sugar ;  roll  it  very  thin ; 
make  a  little  cane  of  caid-paper,  butter  it 
well  on  the  outside,  and  wrap  it  in  some  of 
the  paste;  bake  it  a  few  minutes;  take  out 
the  card,  and  fill  the  paste  with  currant  jel- 
ly, or  any  other  jelly  or  sweetmeat  you 
please. 

CANNELLONS  MERINGUES.  WTiip 

the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  having  mixed 
tliem  with  two  spoonfuls  of  powder-sugar, 
then  mask  the  cannellons;  when  baked, 
crush  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugai*, 
and  roll  the  cannellons  in  it;  replace  them 
a  few  minutes  in  the  oven,  and  then  finish. 
The  masking  of  these  cannellons  may  be 
varied  according  to  taste,  with  pistachios, 
dried  currants,  &c.  the  former  cut  in  pieces, 
the  latter  well  washed,  dried  and  mixed 
with  an  efjual  quantity  of  sugar. 

CAPILLAIRE,    SIRUP    OF.      The 

capillaire  of  Canada,  aUhough  lliat  of  Mont- 
pelier  is  equally  good,  is  a  very  odorife- 
rous vegetable,  light  and  agreeable,  but  so 
extieraely  volatile,  that  the  greatest  part  of 


CAR 


268 


CAR 


it  is  dissipated  during  tlie  preparation  of 
the  sirup.  To  preserve  then  the  odour  of 
the  capillaire,  when  your  sirup  is  sufficient- 
ly done,  pour  it,  whilst  boiling,  upon  some 
fresh  capillaire  coarsely  chopped  up;  then 
cover  your  vessel,  and  let  it  stand  until  it 
is  quite  cold,  then  pass  it  through  a  bolting- 
cloth  to  separate  it  from  the  leaves  of  the 
capillaire. 

Take  one  ounce  of  the  capillaire  from 
Canada;  put  it  into  a  glazed  pan,  pour  upon 
it  four  pints  of  boiling  water,  leave  it  to  in- 
fuse for  twelve  hours  over  some  warm  ashes ; 
strain  it  and  let  it  run  into  a  vessel,  it  will 
give  you  a  strong  tincture  of  capillaire; 
melt  in  this  tincture  four  pounds  of  sugar, 
put  the  whole  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
put  it  on  the  fire,  and  clarify  it  with  the 
while  of  an  egg,  continue  the  cooking;  when 
your  sirup  is  perle,  put  some  fresh  capil- 
laire, chopped,  into  a  pan,  and  pour  your 
sirup,  whilst  boiling,  upon  it;  cover  your 
pan  carefully,  and  let  it  cool;  when  your 
sirup  is  cold,  you  may  flavor  it  if  you  please. 
Put  it  into  bottles,  and  cork  them  hermeti- 
cally. 

CAPILLAIRE,  SIRUP  OF.  (2)  Take 
some  good  capillaire,  chop  it  up,  not  very 
small,  put  it  upon  a  sieve;  pour  upon  it 
some  boiling  water,  and  then  let  it  infuse 
for  ten  hours  in  a  vessel  well  covered ;  strain 
this  infusion,  and  put  into  it  some  sugar 
boiled  au  casse;  clarify  this  sirup  with  the 
whites  of  eggs  whipped;  skim  it  till  it  is 
very  clear ;  when  it  rises,  take  it  off  the 
fire,  and  leave  it  to  cool,  then  put  it  into 
bottles. 

Viard  and  Beauvilliers,  whose  receipts 
are  nearly  the  same,  boil  their  capillaire  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  river- water;  after 
having  passed  this  boiling  through  a  sieve, 
they  put  into  it  some  powder-sugar,  and 
clarify  their  sirup  with  water,  or  a  ^hole 
egg  beaten  up;  then  skim  it,  and  when  it  is 
veiy  clear  and  has  boiled  au  lisse,  they 
take  it  off  the  fire,  and  put  into  it  some 
orange-flower  water,  and  strain  it  through 
a  napkin  or  straining-bag,  leaving  it  to 
cool  before  putting  it  into  bottles. 

For  three  pints  and  a  half  of  sirup,  you 
must  use  two  good  ounces  of  capillaire,  four 
pints  of  water,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar, 
powder-sugar  is  the  best,  as  it  prevents  sir- 
ups from  candying. 

CARAMEL.  Break  into  a  small  copper 
or  brass  pan  one  pound  of  refined  sugar ; 
put  in  a  gill  of  spring-water ;  set  it  on  a 
fire;  when  it  boils  skim  it  quite  clean,  and 
let  it  lx)il  quick,  till  it  comes  to  the  degree 
called  crack;  which  may  be  known  by  dip- 
ping a  tra-spoon  or  skewer  into  the  sugar, 
and  letting  it  drop  to  the  bottom  of  a  pan 


of  cold  water;  and  if  it  remains  hard,  it  has 
attained  that  degree :  squeeze  in  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  and  let  it  remain  one  min- 
ute longer  on  the  fire ;  then  .set  the  pan  into 
another  of  cold  water :  have  ready  moulds 
of  any  shape;  rub  them  over  with  sweet 
oil ;  dip  a  spoon  or  fork  into  the  sugar,  and 
throw  it  over  the  mould  in  fine  threads,  till 
it  is  quite  covered:  make  a  small  handle  of 
caramel,  or  stick  on  two  or  three  small  gum 
paste  rings,  by  way  of  ornament,  and  place 
it  over  small  pastry  of  any  description. 

CARAMEL  CONSERVE.  Clarify  the 
quantity  of  sugar  you  may  require,  and  boil 
k  to  caramel ;  have  ready  some  cases  of 
double  paper;  pour  in  your  sugar  to  the 
thickness  of  half  an  inch,  and  trace  on  its 
surface  the  forms  you  wish  it  to  have  ;  when 
cold,  break  it  according  to  those  marks. 
This  conserve  may  be  colored  and  flavored 
according  to  the  fancy. 

CARAMEL  COVER  FOR  SWEET- 
MEATS. Dissolve  eight  ounces  of  double- 
refined  sugar  in  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of 
water,  and  three  or  four  drops  of  lemon- 
juice;  then  put  it  into  a  copper  untinned 
skillet;  when  it  boils  to  be  thick,  dip  the 
handle  of  a  spoon  in  it,  and  put  that  into  a 
pint  basin  of  water,  squeeze  the  sugar  from 
the  spoon  into  it,  and  so  on  till  you  have  all 
tlie  sugar.  Take  a  bit  out  of  the  water, 
and  if  it  snaps  and  is  brittle  when  cold,  it  is 
done  enough ;  but  only  let  it  be  three  parts 
cold,  then  pour  the  water  from  the  sugar, 
and  having  a  copper  mould  oiled  well,  run 
the  sugar  on  it,  in  the  manner  of  a  maze, 
and  when  cold  you  may  put  it  on  the  dish  it 
is  to  cover  ;  but  if,  on  trial,  the  sugar  is  not 
brittle,  pour  off  the  water,  and  return  it  in- 
to the  skillet,  and  boil  it  again.  It  should 
look  thick  like  treacle,  but  of  a  bright  light 
gold  color.     It  makes  a  most  elegant  cover. 

CARDAMUM  COMFITS.  Procure 
your  cardamums  at  the  chemists,  and  they 
will  be  in  a  shell;  put  them  into  the  oven  to 
dry  the  skins,  and  they  will  break;  pick  all 
the  seeds  from  them,  put  the  seeds  into  a 
large  comfit-pan,  and  have  a  fire  irtider  the 
same  as  for  others;  mix  your  gum,  starch, 
and  sirup,  and  finish  them  the  sauie  as  cara- 
way comfits. 

CARAW^AY  CAKE.  Dry  a  quarter 
of  a  peck  of  fine  flour  in  an  oven;  rub  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter  in  it,  till  it 
is  crumbled  so  small  that  none  of  it  is  to  be 
seen ;  then  take  six  spoonfuls  of  rose  water, 
half  a  pint  of  canary,  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  new  ale  yeast, 
an  i  ihe  whites  of  two,  and  yolks  of  four 
eggs ;  mix  all  these  well  together,  let  it  lie 


CAS 


CHA 


before  the  fire,  and  wlien  you  make  it  up 
put  in  a  pound  and  a  half  of  Naples  biscuits, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  card  way- 
comfits.     Bake  it. 

CARAWAY  COMFITS.  Take  some 
fine  caraway  seeds,  sift  all  the  dust  from 
them,  and  have  a  large  copper  preserving- 
pan,  about  two  feet  wide,  and  with  two 
iiandles  and  two  pieces  of  iron  made  as  a 
ring  on  each  side ;  then  you  must  have  a 
pulley  fixed  to  the  beam,  and  a  cord  with  a 
hook  to  each  end,  so  as  to  fix  it  at  each 
side  of  the  pan  to  let  it  sling;  then  have 
some  fine  starch  as  white  as  you  can  get, 
and  just  soften  it,  boil  some  sirup  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  and  mix  it  with  the  starch; 
take  some  giun  arable,  put  it  into  some 
water,  then  put  that  into  another  pan,  and 
make  it  just  warm;  have  an  iron-pot  with 
charcoal  fire  under  the  large  pan,  but  not 
too  hot,  only  just  to  keep  the  pan  warm; 
have  a  large  tub  to  put  your  pot  of  fire  at 
bottom,  and  your  large  pan  must  l)e  on  the 
top ;  put  the  cai^away  seeds  into  your  pan  ; 
add  a  large  ladleful  of  gum  arable,  rub  them 
with  your  hands  until  you  find  they  are  all 
dry,  then  put  a  ladleful  of  starch  and  sirup, 
and  do  the  same  over  your  pan  of  fire,  until 
you  find  they  are  all  dry;  put  the  gum  only 
threeror  four  times  to  them  at  first,  then  the 
starch  and  sugar,  but  boil  your  sij-up  more 
as  you  find  they  come  to  coat  with  it,  and 
not  so  much  starch ;  when  you  have  dried 
them  seven  or  eight  times,  put  them  into 
your  sieve;  put  them  into  the  stove,  do 
them  the  next  day,  and  so,  successively,  for 
six  or  seven  days. 

CARAWAY  DRAGEES.  Take  any 
quantity  of  caniway  seeds  you  think  proper, 
put  them  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  when 
quite  warm,  put  in  clarified  sugar,  a  little 
at  a  time,  stirring  it  occasionally,  till  of  the 
size  you  wish;  then  proceed  as  directed  for 
Almond  Dragees. 

CASSIA  CANDIED.  Pound  a  little 
musk  and  ambergris  witli  as  much  of  the 
powder  of  cassia  as  will  lie  on  two  shil- 
lings. Having  pounded  them  well  together, 
take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar,  and 
as  much  water  as  will  wet  it,  and  boil  it  to 
a  candy  height,  then  put  in  your  powder 
and  mix  well  together.  Butter  some  pew- 
ter saucers,  and  when  it  is  cold  turn  it  out. 

CASSIA  RATAFIA  OF.  Take  a 
pound  of  cassia,  half  a  pound  of  bitter 
cherries,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cassia 
leaves,  and  half  a  drachm  of  cinnamon; 
bruise  the  two  first,  cut  up  the  leaves,  and 
pound  the  cinnamon,  infuse  these  ingredi- 
ents in  three  quart?  of  brandy  for  tliree 
23* 


weeks.  Dissolve  two  pounds  of  sugar  in  a 
quart  of  water,  and  mix  with  the  liqueur, 
and  let  it  stand  some  time  longer,  then 
strain  and  bottle  it.     Cork  it  up  close.  ' 

CEDRATS,    BLANCMANGE     OF. 

Grate  the  rind  of  a  cedrat  upon  some  sugar 
in  the  usual  way,  until  six  ounces  of  sugar 
have  been  used ;  blanch  and  pound  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  moistening  them  with 
water;  when  perfectly  smooth,  dilute  them 
with  five  glasses  of  water  put  in  by  degrees ; 
then  pour  them  in  a  napkin,  and  squeezing 
it,  express  the  milk  of  almonds  from  them; 
divide  this  into  two  equal  parts,  with  one 
of  which  mix  the  six  ounces  of  sugar  witli 
the  cedrat,  and  with  the  other  portion,  mix 
the  same  quantity  of  plain  sugar;  as  soon 
as  both  are  dissolved,  strain  them,  and  put 
in  each  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass:  your 
mould  being  placed  in  ice,  pour  into  it  the 
white  blancmange  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  depth ;  as  soon  as  that  is  set,  pour 
in  an  equal  quantity  of  the  other,  which 
ought  to  be  of  a  clear  yellow ;  when  that 
also  is  set,  pour  in  some  white,  and  so  on 
alternately,  till  the  mould  is  full.  Turn  out 
the  blancmange  as  directed  in  Blancmange 
French. 

CEDRAT,  CONSERVE  OF.  Grate 
the  rind  of  a  cedrat  all  round,  until  the  juice 
is  ready  to  ooze  out;  this  must  be  done  by 
rubbing  it  against  a  large  piece  of  sugar, 
(about  a  pound;)  remove  the  surface  of 
this  sugar,  to  which  the  grated  rind  adheres, 
with  a  knile,  and  squeeze  to  it  half  the  juice 
of  the  cedrat.  Dissolve  the  remainder  of 
the  sugar  to  the  degree  grande  plume, 
then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  it  has 
stood  a  little  while,  put  in  your  cedrat,  stir- 
ring it  with  a  spoon,  until  a  sort  of  ice 
forms  on  the  top ;  you  may  then  pour  your 
conserve  into  moulds.  Be  careful  nut  to 
put  it  in  too  hot. 

CEDRAT  ZESTES,  JELLY  OF. 
Take  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  lump  su- 
gar, grate  on  it  the  zestea  of  two  cedrats, 
and,  as  the  sugar  becomes  colored,  scrape 
it  oft' with  a  knife,  and  grate  again,  and  so 
on  until  all  the  zeste  is  gone;  dissolve  the 
scraped  sugar  in  two  glasses  of  water,  and, 
witli  the  juice  of  four  lemons,  pass  it  through 
a  jelly  bag.  Clarify  the  remainder  of  the 
sugar,  and  then  put  a  fourth  of  it  into  a 
small  preserving  pan;  boil  it  to  caramel 
height,  to  color  the  jelly;  mix  this,  the 
fruit,  the  sirup,  and  an  ounce  of  isinglassr 
together,  and  finish  in  the  usual  way. 

CHANTILLY  BASKET.  Dip  some 
ratafia  cakes  into  clarified  sugar  boiled  to 
caramel  height;  place  ihem  round  the  ia- 


CHE 


2tO 


CHE 


side  of  a  dish ;  then  cut  more  ratafia  cakes 
into  squares,  dip  tliem  also  into  sugar,  and 
pile  them  coiner-ways  on  the  row,  and  so 
on  for  two  or  three  stories  high.  Line  the 
inside  with  wafer-paper,  and  fill  it  with 
sponge  biscuit,  sweetmeats,  blanched  al- 
monds, or  some  made  cream;  put  tritle 
over  tliat,  and  garnish  the  froth  with  rose- 
leaves,  colored  comfits,  or  caramel  sugar 
thrown  lightly  over  the  top. 

CHERRIES  LN  BRANDY.  Choose 
the  finest  and  rijjest  cherries,  leave  on  half 
the  stalks,  and  put  them  into  very  cold  wa- 
ter. In  about  half  an  hour  take  them  out, 
and  drain  them  on  a  sieve;  weigh  them, 
and  to  every  pound  of  fruit,  allow  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar ;  when  you  have  clarified 
and  boiled  it  to  grand  perle,  put  in  the 
fruit,  boil  theui  up  two  oi  three  times,  stir- 
ring them  gently  wilii  a  skimuier;  then  take 
them  from  the  fire  carefully,  and  put  the 
cherries  into  b')ttles  or  glass  jars;  when 
filled,  add  to  each  twelve  cloves  and  half  an 
ounce  of  cinnamon  lied  in  a  linen  bag.  Put 
to  the  sugar,  when  ne-aily  col  I,  brandy  (in 
the  proportion  of  a  pint  and  a  half  to  a 
pound  of  fruit);  mix  them  together  well, 
and  pour  tht^m  on  the  ch(,>rries.  In  two 
months  time  taste  them,  an.)  if  sufhciently 
flavored,  take  out  the  f'loves  and  cinnamon. 
Cover  the  jars  <jr  bottles  close. 

CHERRIES,  TO  CANDY.  The  fruit 
must  be  gathered  before  it  is  rijie;  prick 
and  stone  ihem;  boil  clarified  sugar,  and 
pour  it  over  them. 

CHERRY  ICE.  Take  the  stones  and 
stalks  from  two  pounds  of  ripe  cherries, 
bruise,  and  set  them  on  the  fire  with  a  little 
water,  and  half  a  |iound  of  sugar.  When 
they  have  boiled,  pass  them  through  a  hair 
sieve  into  an  earthen  pan.  Pound  a  handful 
of  the  kernels,  put  them  in  a  basin  with  the 
juice  (»f  two  lemons.  Adrl  to  the  cherries  a 
puund  of  sugar  au  petit  lisse,  and  strain  on 
them  the  lemon-juice  and  kernels;  mix  the 
whole  together,  and  put  it  in  a  sabotiere, 
Avith  pounded  ice.  Work  the  cherries  up 
with  it  well,  until  it  has  set,  then  place  it  in 
glasses. 

CHERRY  ICE  CREAM.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  preserved  cherries,  pound  them, 
stones  and  all;  put  them  into  a  basin,  with 
one  gill  of  sirup,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a 
pint  of  cream,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
freeze  it  according  to  custom. 

CHERRY  MARMALADE.  Choose 
the  ri|Te3t,  largest,  best  red  colored  cherries, 
you  c^n  meet  with,  and  take  of  them  double 
tbe  weight  of  tlie  sugar  you  intend  to  use; 


stone  and  tail;  and  then  put  them  6ri  a 
gentle  fire,  and  keep  stirring  them  till  re- 
duced to  half.  Clarify  and  boil  your  sugar 
to  petit  casse,  then  add  the  fruit  to  it,  and 
stir  it  until  you  can  see  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  ;  the  marmalade  is  then  sufficiently  done, 
and  may  be  put  into  jwts. 

CHERRY  MARCHPANE.  Take  three 
pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  two  and  a  half 
of  sugar,  and  a  pound  of  cherries ;  pound 
the  almonds  to  a  paste,  and  mix  it  with  the 
sug-.ir,  boiled  to  petit  houle;  then  having 
stoned,  well  bruised,  and  squeezed  out  the 
juice  of  the  cherries,  add  it  to  the  rest,  stir 
it  well,  place  it  on  hot  ashes,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  the  paste  is  properly  done; 
then  finish  it  in  the  usual  way,  (See 
Marchpank.)  Stiawl)erries,  raspber- 
ries, currants,  or  any  other  fruit  may  be 
used  in  the  same  way. 

CHERRY  RATAFIA.  Crush  ten 
pounds  of  cherries,  and  |)ut  them  into  a  jar 
with  a  quart  of  brandy  ;  cover  the  jar  close, 
and  infuse  the  cherries  for  five  or  six  days; 
at  the  end  of  that  time  put  the  fruit  into  a 
cloth,  and  press  the  juice  out  through.  Boil 
five  pounds  of  fine  currants,  with  three  pounds 
of  sugar,  and  press  out  the  juice  as  you  did 
that  of  the  cherries;  mix  the  two  juices, 
measure  thfu,  and  for  every  pint  allow  a 
pint  of  brandy.  Add  a  pound  of  the  kernels 
of  the  cherry-stones,  half  a  pound  of  corian- 
der, a  little  mace,  some  cloves  and  cinna- 
mon, all  well  poiuxled,  put  them  into  a  jar, 
and  pour  the  litjurjr  over  them ;  cover  it 
close  and  let  it  infuse  for  six  weeks,  after 
which,  pass  the  whole  through  a  jelly-bag, 
and  bottle  it;  cork  it  carefully. 

CHERRIES,  SIRUP  OF.  The  best 
cherries  for  tliis  purpose  are  the  black  sour 
ones ;  take  out  the  stones  and  express  die 
juice  into  an  earthen  pan,  where  it  must 
stand  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours 
to  clear:  at  the  end  of  that  time  poui'  the 
juice  gently  into  a  pan,  and  add  to  it,  for 
each  pound  of  juice,  two  pounds  of  crushed 
sugar,  and  two  drachms  of  cinnamon,  pre- 
viously infused  in  a  glass  of  water,  wrap  the 
cinnamon  in  a  piece  of  linen,  and  put  it  with 
the  wafer  into  your  pan;  boil  all  together 
for  half  an  hour,  skimming  it  carefully. 
When  sufficiently  done  take  out  the  cinna- 
mon ;  strain  the  sirup  till  quite  clear,  and 
when  cold  bottle  it. 

CHESTNUTS  IN  CARAMEL.      (1) 

Roast  chestnuts  as  for  the  table;  take  off 
the  skins  ;  dip  each  in  the  whites  of  eggs 
beaten,  and  then  roll  them  in  powder-sugar; 
lay  then)  separately  on  paper  to  cby,  in  a 
moderate  oven  j  tiiey  may  he  cut  into  dif- 


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ferent  forms  if  you  think  proper,  and  glazed 
either  white  or  brown. 

CHESTiVUTS  IN  CARAMEL.      (2) 

Cut  some  osier  rods  or  reeds  into  pieces 
about  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  on  the 
point  of  each  put  a  roasted  and  skinned 
chestnut.  Take  a  piece  of  very  fresh  but- 
ter, (about  tiie  size  of  a  nut),  and  rub  it 
with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  on  an  iron  plate 
or  marble  slab,  taking  care  to  rub  every 
part  well.  Then  having  boiled  some  clari- 
fied sugar  to  caramel  height;  take  a  piece 
of  die  osier,  with  a  chestnut  on  the  end,  in 
each  hand,  and  dip  them  in  the  sugar,  twist- 
ing them  round  repeatedly,  that  the  sugar 
may  adhere  e(]!ially  about  the  chestnut  till 
it  l)egins  to  cool,  then  lay  them  on  the  but- 
tered slab,  and  dip  in  two  more,  proceed- 
ing as  above;  when  all  are  done  and  cold, 
take  out  the  osier  twigs,  and  wrap  each 
chestnut  in  pa])er,  with  a  device  if  you 
think  proper.  These  chestnuts  make  a  de- 
licious sweetmeat,  but  they  should  be  eaten 
the  day  on  which  they  are  made. 

CHESTNUT  COMPOTE.  (1)  Take 
the  outer  skin  from  about  a  hundred 
chestnuts,  and  then  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  water,  a  lemon  cut  in  pieces,  and 
three  hundfuls  of  bran  ;  put  them  on  the  fire 
and  blanch  them:  as  soon  as  a  pin  will  go 
into  tliem  easily,  they  are  sufficiently  done ; 
rub  off  the  second  skin,  and  throw  them 
into  cold  water,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Clarify  and  boil  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar 
to  petit  lisse,  and  having  diained  your 
chestnuts,  put  them  into  the  sugar  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  the  quarter  of  a  glass  of 
orange-flower  water;  put  these  on  ihe  fire 
dr  a  short  time,  l)ut  not  to  let  them  boil : 
tlien  take  them  off  and  set  them  by.  The 
next  day  drain  the  chestnuts,  and  boil  up 
the  sirup  four  times ;  then  add  more  sugar, 
and  having  boiled  it  to  souffle,  put  in  the 
cliestnuts;  blanch  them  instantly  afterwards, 
and  put  them  into  computiers. 

CHESTNUT  COMPOTE.  (2)  Roast 
your  chestnuts  as  for  the  dessert,  and 
when  they  are  peeled  and  skinned,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sugar,  and  half  a  glass  of  water ;  let 
tliem  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
squeeze  in  a  little  lemon-juice,  and  when 
ready  to  serve,  strew  powder-sugar  over 
tliem. 

CHESTNUT  CREAM.  (1)  Pound 
twenty-five  roasted  chestnuts  in  a  mortar, 
with  a  little  milk  ;  then  put  (he  paste  so  made 
into  a  stewpan,  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
half  a  pint  of  milk,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and 
four  ounces  of  powder -sugar ;   wlien  it  has 


boiled  a  little  while,  strain  it,  put  it  into 
a  dish,  or  glass  for  table,  and  let  it  cool. 

CHESTNUT  CREAM.  (2)  Roast,  and 
then  pound  a  quarter  of  a  hundred  of  chest- 
nuts, with  a  small  quantity  of  milk  ;  to  this 
add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a  pint  of  milk^ 
a  (juarter  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  and 
about  an  ounce  of  butter.  Boil  these  to- 
gether for  some  minutes,  then  strain  it,  and 
set  it  by  to  cool. 

CHESTNUT  CUSTARD.  Take  three 
pounds  of  well  roasted  chestnuts,  removing 
such  parts  as  were  colored  by  the  fire,  and 
pound  them  with  a  pound  of  fresh  butter; 
when  a  smooth  paste,  add  three-tiuarters  of 
a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  the  yolks  of 
twelve  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  few 
spoonfuls  oj^  whipped  cream,  the  whites 
whipped  firm,  and  finish  the  custard  as  di- 
rected. 

CHESTNUT  PASTE.  Make  a  mar- 
malade by  boiling  chestnuts  in  water,  and 
rubbing  them  through  a  sieve,  then  pound 
them,  and  to  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
this,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  any  other 
fruit  marmalade;  mix  them  well  up  with  an 
e(]ual  weight  of  sugar  boiled  to  grand 
plume;  put  it  into  your  moulds  and  bake  it 
as  clierry,  or  any  other  paste. 

CHINESE  TEMPLE.  Having  boiled 
an  ounce  of  double-refined  sugar,  with  half 
an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  little  water,  set  it 
by  till  colfi,  and  then  add  to  it  an  egg  well 
beaten.  With  this,  make  four  ounces  of 
flour  into  a  very  stiff  paste  ;  roll  it  out  as 
thin  as  possible,  and  lay  it  in  a  set  of  tins 
the  form  of  a  temple,  and  bake  them  in  a 
slow  oven.  When  cold,  take  the  paste 
from  the  tins,  and  join  each  piece  together 
according  to  the  proper  forms,  with  isin- 
glass and  water.  The  lower  part,  of 
course,  ought  to  be  stronger  than  the  top, 
in  order  that  it  may  sustain  the  weight  of 
the  whole.  The  pieces  also  must  be  cut 
as  exact  as  possible  to  the  shape  of  tlie 
tins. 

CHOCOLATE  ALMONDS.  Take  a 
pound  of  chocolate  finely  grated,  and  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  the  best  sugar,  finely 
sifted ;  soak  some  gum-dragon  in  orange- 
flower  water,  and  work  them  into  what 
form  you  please  ;  the  paste  must  be  stiff; 
dry  them  in  a  stove.  You, may  write  de- 
vices on  paper,  roll  them  up,  and  put  them 
in  the  middle. 

CHOCOLATE   BONBONS.       Put  a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  chocolate  over  a  fire, 
to  dissolve  it;  and  having  boiled  two  pounds 


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of  sugar  to  forte  perle,  put  a  spoonful  or 
two  into  the  chocolate;  stir  it  till  it  forms  a 
thin  paste,  and  then  pour  it  on  the  sugar, 
and  boil  both  together  to  caramel.  In  the 
meantime  melt  a  little  butter,  skim,  and 
pour  it  off  clear  into  a  Irasin  ;  take  a  spoon- 
ful of  it,  and  rub  it  with  your  hand  over  a 
marble  slab  or  table:  on  this  pour  the  choco- 
late and  sugar ;  then  take  two  ends  of  a 
sword-blade,  (one  in  each  hand),  and  press 
lines  an  inch  apart  all  down  it ;  cross  them 
in  like  manner,  so  as  to  mark  the  sugar  in 
small  s(]uares  all  over ;  doing  it  as  quick  as 
possible,  lest  the  sugar  should  cool  before 
you  have  done  ;  then  pass  the  sword -blade 
between  the  marble  and  the  sugar  ;  lay  un- 
der the  latter  sheets  of  paper ;  and  when 
cold,  break  it  into  pieces  according  to  the 
marks,  and  wrap  each  square  in  paper. 

CHOCOLATE  COMFITS.  Take  two 
ounces  of  chocolate,  beat  it  small  with  a 
little  warm  water  over  the  fire ;  when  it  is 
dissolved  and  reduced  to  a  paste,  pour  it 
upon  a  pound  of  masse  pain  or  sweet 
paste,  to  which  add  some  cinnamon  or  va- 
nilla at  discretion;  mix  the  whole  well  to- 
gether; then  spread  it  over  some  wafer 
shapes,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 
If  the  paste  does  not  appear  deep  colored 
enough,  you  may  color  it  with  bolus  Ar- 
menicum. 

CHOCOLATE  CONSERVE.  (1)  Dis- 
solve'two  oun(-es  of  good  chocolate  in  a 
little  water,  put  it  into  a  skillet  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  boiled  to  perle  ;  keep  the 
sugar  stirring,  and  when  it  boils  put  the 
Conserve  into  moulds. 

CHOCOLATE  CONSERVE.  (2)  Dis- 

solve  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  choco- 
late in  a  small  quantity  of  clarified  sugar ; 
boil  a  |K)und  of  sugar  to  the  premiere 
plume,  put  your  chocolate  into  it,  stirring 
it  well  to  mix  it;  serve  it  whilst  it  is  warm. 

CHOCOLATE  DROPS.  Take  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  chocolate,  put  it  on  a 
pewter  sheet  or  plate,  and  put  it  in  the 
oven  just  to  warm  the  chocolate  ;  then  put 
it  into  a  copper  stewpan,  with  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar; 
mix  it  well  over  the  fire,  take  it  off,  and 
roll  it  in  pieces  the  size  of  small  marbles, 
put  them  on  white  paper,  and  when  they 
are  all  on,  take  the  sheet  of  pap6r  by  each 
corner,  and  lift  it  up  and  down  so  that  the 
paper  may  touch  the  table  each  time,  and 
by  that  means  you  will  see  the  drops  come 
quite  fat,  about  the  size  of  a  six|)ence ;  put 
some  sugar  nonpareils  over  them,  ajid  cover 
all  that  are  on  the  paper,  tlien  sliake  them 
off,  and  you  will  see  all  the  chocolate  drops 


are  covered  with  the  sugar  nonpareils;  let 
them  stand  till  cold,  and  they  will  come  ofT 
well,  and  then  put  them  in  a  box  pajjered. 

CHOCOLATE    ICE    CREAM.      (1) 

Take  any  quantity  of  chocolate,  melt  it  over 
tlie  fire  in  a  small  pan  ;  when  melted  pour 
it  into  that  in  which  you  are  to  make  your 
cieam;  break  your  yolks  of  eggs  into  it, 
(four  eggs  to  every  pint  of  cream)  add  some 
pounded  loaf  sugar  to  it,  keep  stirring  con- 
tinually; then  add  your  cream  by  little  and 
little,  stirring  and  turning  it  till  the  whole 
is  mixed  properly  together;  then  set  your 
pan  over  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  with  a 
wooden  spoon  till  you  see  your  composition 
is  near  boiling,  tlien  take  it  off  immediate- 
ly, for,  from  the  moment  you  set  your  com- 
position over  the  fire  till  that  it  offers  to 
lx)il,  it  has  sufticient  time  to  incorporate 
well  and  thicken  sufficiently,  without  need 
of  boiling;  and  should  you  let  it  boil,  you 
would  risk  the  turning  your  cream  into 
whey,  on  account  of  the  yrilks  of  eggs,  which 
would  do  too  much.  Take  great  care 
likewise  your  cream  is  fresh  and  sweet, 
for  otherwise  as  soon  as  it  is  warm  it  will 
turn  to  curds  and  whey ;  therefore,  be  care- 
ful, stir  it  continually,  from  the  time  you 
set  it  on  the  fire  till  you  take  it  off;  then 
put  it  in  the  sabotiere  to  make  it  congeal 
after  the  usual  manner. 

CHOCOLATE    ICE    CREAM.      (2) 

Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  a  little  water  on 
a  slow  fire;  when  properly  done,  mix  it 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  three  yolks  of  new 
laid  eggs,  and  alx)ut  half  a  pound  of  sugar. 

CHOCOLATE  ICE  WATER.  Take 
three  oimces  of  chocolate,  warm  it,  and 
mix  with  it  half  a  gill  of  sirup,  and  half  a 
pint  of  water;  mix  it  well,  and  freeze  it 
thick. 

CHOCOLATE  MACAROONS.  Put 

a  quarter  of  a  jiound  of  chocolate  on  a  tin- 
plate  over  a  coal  fire,  and  when  it  is  dis- 
solved pour  it  on  a  plate;  put  to  it  a  spoon- 
ful or  two  a(  sweet  almond  paste,  made  as 
for  macaroons,  stir  it  in  well,  and  then  pour 
it  upon  the  remainder  of  the  almond  paste, 
in  which  you  have  mixed  a  tea-spoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon  or  vanilla,  or  both: 
beat  tliem  together  well  in  a  mortar,  lay 
them  on  paper,  and  bake  tliem  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CHOCOLATE  PARFAIT  AMOUR. 

For  four  bottles  of  brandy,  take  one  pound 
of  the  best  chocolate,  cut  in  small  bits;  a 
little  salt,  two  cloves,  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon ;  you  must  infuse  all  in  the  brandy,  with 
two  bottles  and  half  a  pint  of  water,  with 


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whites  of  eggs,  and  filter  it  through  the  pa- 
per. You  must  be  careful  not  to  take  more 
than  two  bottles  from  every  four,  except 
from  the  cinnamon,  from  which  you  are  to 
take  as  much  as  you  can  get. 

CHOCOLATE  PASTILS.  Take  a 
little  chocolate,  which  put  in  a  pan  over  the 
fire  to  melt  it;  stir  it  with  a  spoon;  when 
it  is  melted,  take  half  a  pound  of  loaf  su- 
gar, pounded  in  a  mortar  and  sifted,  which 
dissolve  in  a  little  clear  water.  When  that 
is  done,  put  in  your  chocolate ;  if  you  find 
the  paste  too  thick,  add  a  little  water, 
enough  to  bring  it  to  that  degree  of  liquidity 
that  you  may  take  it  up  on  a  knife;  then 
take  half  a  sheet  of  piiper,  and  cover  it  with 
little  round  and  flat  drops,  which  we  call 
pastils,  of  the  size  of  a  sixpence ;  let  them 
diy  naturally  in  a  cupboard ;  and  when  dry, 
take  them  off  from  the  paper,  and  put  tliem 
in  boxes. 

CHOCOLATE     PASTIL      PASTE. 

Melt  half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon  in  a  little 
water  till  it  is  quite  dissolved  and  thick; 
sift  it  through  a  linen  cloth,  pound  it  in  a 
mortar  with  a  quarter-pait  of  whites  of 
eggs,  a  chocolate  cake  bruised,  and  half  a 
pound  of  fine  powder-sugar,  mixed  by  de- 
grees, and  adding  either  more  or  less  sugar, 
according  as  the  paste  is  malleable ;  it  must 
be  pretty  firm ;  form  it  into  what  flowers  or 
designs  you  please,  as  shells,  lozenges,  any 
kind  of  corn  or  beans,  &c. 

CHOCOLATE  PETIT  PAINS.  These 
are  made  in  the  same  w-ay  as  Petits  Pains 
a  la  Duchesse  (see  that  article),  but  with- 
out the  dorure.  When  cold  fill  them  with 
a  cream  patissiere,  mixed  with  two  ounces 
of  vanilla  chocolate,  and  sweetened  with 
sugar,  flavored  with  vanilla ;  then  put  three 
ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  the  same  of  choco- 
late, and  half  the  white  of  an  egg  into  a 
pan;  stir  these  ingredients  with  a  silver 
spoon  until  yon  have  a  smooth  transparent 
glaze,  with  which  mask  the  top  and  sides 
of  the  petits  pains,  spreading  it  equally 
with  the  blade  of  a  knife. 

CHOCOLATE    SWEETMEATS. 

Take  two  ounces  of  chocolate,  and  break  it 
into  a  little  warm  water,  put  it  on  the  fire, 
and  when  quite  dissolved,  mix  it  with  a 
pound  of  marchpane  paste,  to  which  may  be 
added  vanilla  or  cinnamon ;  stir  it  up  well, 
and  then  spread  it  on  wafer-pa|)er  in  what 
forms  you  please,  and  bake  them  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  If  the  sweetmeats  be  not  suffi- 
ciently dark  colored,  add  a  little  bol-ammo- 


CINNAMON    CAKES.      Whisk 


up 


half  a  dozen  eggs  with  three  table-sponnfiik 
of  rose  water ;  add  to  it  a  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  a  dessert-spoonful  of  powdered  ciima- 
mon,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of. flour  to 
make  it  into  a  paste;  roll  it  ouf  thin,  and 
cut  it  into  whatever  forms  your  fancy  may 
dictate,  place  them  on  paper,  and  bake 
them.  When  done,  remove  them  from  the 
paper.     Keep  tliem  dry. 

CINNAMON  CANDIED.  (1)  Soak  cin- 
namon in  water  for  four  and  twenty  hours, 
and  then  cut  it  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
long ;  prepare  some  sugar  to  grand  lissiy 
and  give  the  cinnamon  a  boil  in  it;  drain 
and  dry  it  in  a  stove  to  the  proper  consis- 
tence; then  put  it  in  the  moulds  with  sugar 
boiled  to  souffle,  and  when  half  cold,  dry 
it.  Before  the  candy  is  removed  from  the 
moulds,  they  should  be  laid  on  one  side  for 
some  time.  Keep  them  in  paper  in  a  dry 
place. 

CINNAMON  CANDIED.    (2)      Cut 

some  cinnamon  into  small  sticks  of  about  an 
inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  long;  then  put 
them  into  thin  sugar,  and  boil  them  as  it 
were  in  a  sirup.  Then  take  off  the  pan, 
and  set  it  by  for  five  or  six  hours  fo  soak, 
take  them  out  and  lay  them  on  a  wire-grate, 
dry  them  thoroughly  in  the  stove;  after- 
wards ptit  them  in  order  in  tin  moulds 
upon  little  grates  made  for  the  purpose,  and 
set  into  the  moulds,  so  that  there  may  bo 
three  rows  set  one  above  another,  separated 
by  those  grates.  In  the  meantime,  boil  su-» 
gar  till  it  is  blown,  and  pour  it  into  your 
mould,  so  that  some  of  it  may  lie  upon  the 
uppermost  grate;  then  set  them  in  the  stove 
with  a  covered  fire,  and  let  them  stand  alj 
night ;  the  next  morning  take  notice  whether 
Uie  cinnamon  be  well  coagulated ;  turn  the 
mould  upside  down,  and  set  it  in  the  stove 
again,  with  a  plate  underneath;  and  when  it 
is  thoroughly  drained,  take  out  your  sticks 
of  cinnamon,  loosening  them,  by  little  and 
little,  gently;  then  lay  them  upon  a  sieve, 
set  in  the  stove,  and  dry  them  thoroughly. 

CINNAMON,       CONSERVE      OF, 

Bruise  four  drachms  of  cinnamon,  dilute  it 
with  a  little  clarified  sugar,  or  sirup  of  mal- 
lows; boil  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  petit 
cass6,  throw  in  the  cinnamon,  stir  it  well, 
and  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  the 
sugar  begins  to  whiten",  pour  the  conserve 
into  cases  or  moulds,  and  dry  it  as  usual, 

CINNAMON,  DRAGEES  OR  SU- 
GARED. Soak  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
the  best  cinnamon  in  sticks,  for  twelve  hours 
in  water  to  soften  it ;  at  the  end  of  that  time, 
cut  it  into  slips,  lay  them  on  a  sieve  in  a 
warm  place  for  some  days.     When  quite 


CIN 


274 


CIT 


hard  anrl  diy,  boil  some  fine  sugar  to  the 
degree  grand  per le;  have  ready  a  quantity 
of  fine  powder,  and  proceed  in  the  same 
manner  as  in  doing  Almond  Dragees, 
until  the  6innamon  slicks  are  of  the  proper 
tliicknesri;  tliose  which  are  to  be  twisted  or 
curled,  sliould  not  be  so  thick  as  the  others. 
Be  equally  particular  in  removing  the  sugar, 
that  cakes  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  as  in 
making  Almond  Dragees. 

CINNAMON  DRAGEES,  COMMON. 

Infuse  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  gum-dragon, 
in  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it;  the  next 
day  put  the  infusion  into  a  mortar,  and  stir 
it  well  with  a  pestle,  and  tl)e  longer  it  is 
stirred  the  whiter  it  becomes ;  in  ratlier 
more  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  add  to  it 
the  caked  sjigar  which  was  removed  from 
U>e  pr&serving-pan,  and  which  must  be  well 
pounded  and  sifted,  also  a  |x)und  of  powder- 
sugar,  a  spoonful  of  cinnamon  powder,  and 
by  degrees  two  or  three  pounds  of  flour; 
moisten  the  whole  occasionally  with  water ; 
when  the  paste  is  of  a  proper  consistence, 
place  it  on  the  slab  or  pasteboard,  knead  it 
well  for  a  short  time,  roll  it  out  in  sheets, 
not  thicker  than  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  and 
then  cut  it  into  slips  of  the  same  size  as  the 
cinnamon  (see  above,)  put  them  on  paper 
or  a  sieve  in  a  warm  place  for  some  days. 
Then  boil  some  connnon  sugar  to  perle, 
and  sugar  the  slips  of  paste  as  above  direct- 
ed; instead  of  the  fine  powder,  flour  is  suffi- 
cient, until  the  last  two  layers,  when  the 
powder  may  be  used  to  give  them  whiteness. 
When  of  the  requisite  size,  lay  them  on 
sieves  to  dry.  In  a  few  days  theie  may  be 
curled,  and  colored,  which  is  done  in  the 
eame  manner  as  coriander  seeds.  Observe, 
fine  sugared  cinnamon  is  always  white. 

CINNAMON,  ESSENCE  OF.  This 
is  made  by  infusing  oil  of  cinnamon  in 
highly  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  half  a  drachm  of  the  former  to  an 
ounce  of  the  latter. 

CINNAMON  PASTILS.  Dissolre 
half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon  in  a  glass  of 
water,  and  strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve 
into  a  mortar,  and  add  to  it  a  tea-spoonful 
of  powdered  cinnamon,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  sifted  sugar  to  make  the  paste  of 
a  proper  consistence ;  form  into  such  figures 
as  you  may  fancy,  and  dry  them  in  a  stove. 
Keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 

CINNAMON  SWEETMEATS.  Take 
a  pound  of  marchpane  {wiste,  and  dilute 
it  with  as  many  whites  of  eggs  ai  will 
make  it  spread  easily  with  a  knife;  add  to 
this,  a  spoonful  or  two  of  prepared  bole-am- 
moniac, which  will  give  it  a  fine  red  tinge, 


and  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon-powder. 
When  all  these  ingredients  are  well  mixed, 
cut  some  wafer-paper  into  such  forms  as  you 
may  think  proper,  and  Iq^  on  them  tlie  paste 
about  the  thickness  of  the  eighth  of  an  inch ; 
place  tliem  on  paper,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  done,  they  may  be 
finished  in  the  following  manner: — Boil 
some  sugar  in  orange-flower  water,  to  la 
plume,  and  as  you  take  the  sweetmeats  from 
the  oven;  dip  a  Jiair-pencil  into  the  sirup, 
and  brush  them  over;  this  dries  almost  im- 
mediately, and  considerably  improves  the 
look  of  them. 

CINNAMON  WAFERS.  Pound  and 
sift  six  ounces  of  sugar,  and  put  it  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  melted  fresh  butter,  the 
same  of  flour,  half  an  ounce  of  powdered 
cinnamon,  and  a  small  egg;  stir  these  up  in 
an  earthenware  vessel,  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  milk  to  make  it  into  a  thin,  but 
not  too  clear,  paste.  Make  an  iron  plate 
quite  hot,  rub  it  well  with  butler,  then  lay 
on  it  a  spoonful  of  the  paste;  fry  it,  and 
when  brown  on  both  sides,  roll  it,  still  over 
the  hot  iron,  round  a  small  stick ;  do  this 
until  all  the  paste  is  used. 

CINNAMONUM.  Take  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  cinnamon,  two  drachms  of  mace, 
and  one  ounce  of  stick-liquorice;  bruise 
them  well,  and  then  put  them  into  three 
quarts  of  the  best  brandy;  let  the  infusion 
stand  for  some  days  before  you  distil  it; 
dissolve  four  pounds  of  sugar  in  three  pints 
and  a  half  of  water;  mix  this  sirup  with  tlie 
liqueur,  and  then  strain  tliem.  This  is 
sometimes  called  Oil  of  Cinnamon. 

CITRON,  CANDIED.  Pare  the  citrons 
very  thin  and  narrow,  and  throw  them  into 
water;  these  are  called  faggots;  then  cut 
the  citron  into  slices  of  any  thickness  you 
think  proper ;  take  out  the  inner  part  with 
great  care,  so  as  to  leave  only  the  white 
ring,  and  put  them  with  the  faggots  into 
boiling  water;  when  tender,  drain  them. 
Boil  a  sufficient  quantity  of  clarified  sugar 
to  souffle;  then  put  in  the  rings,  and  boil 
them  together.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  and 
when  a  little  cool,  rub  the  sugar  against  the 
side  of  the  pre-erving-pan  widi  the  back  of 
a  spoon;  as  soon  as  it  becomes  white,  take 
out  the  rings  with  a  fork  very  carefully,  one 
by  one,  and  lay  them  on  a  wire-grate  to 
drain:  boil  and  proceed  with  the  faggots  in 
a  similar  way;  when  taken  out,  cut  them 
into  proper  lengths  with  a  pair  of  scissors, 
and  lay  them  also  on  the  wire  to  drain. 

CITRON  PASTE.  Cut  off  the  ends 
of  the  citrons,  take  out  the  middle,  with  all 
the  seeds;  boil  them  in  some  water;  and 


CIT 


275 


COF 


when  quite  tender,  take  them  from  the  fire, 
and  throw  them  into  cold  water  a  moment; 
then,  having  pressed  them  in  a  cloth  to  get 
the  water  out,  pound  and  sift  them.  To 
evepy  quarter  of  a  pound  of  this  marmalade 
put  half  a  pound  of  clarified  sug-.ir;  simmer 
them  together,  stirring  constantly  until  well 
mixed ;  then  put  them  into  moulds,  and  place 
them  in  a  stove  to  dry. 

CITRON    WHITE     PRESERVED. 

Lay  some  white  citrons,  cut  into  pieces,  in 
salt  and  water  for  four  or  five  hours;  then, 
having  washed  them  in  cold  water,  boil 
them;  when  tender,  drain,  and  lay  them 
into  as  much  clarified  sugar  as  will  cover 
them.  The  next  day  drain  off"  the  sirup, 
and  boil  it;  when  quite  smooth  and  cold, 
pour  it  on  the  citrons;  let  them  stand  twen- 
ty-four hours;  then  boil  the  sirup  again, 
and  put  in  the  citrons.  The  third  day, 
boil  both  together,  and  put  them  into  moulds 
to  candy. 

CITRON     PRESERVED    LIQUID. 

Cut  a  slit  in  the  sides  of  some  small  citrons, 
so  that  the  inside  may  take  the  sugar  as 
well  as  the  outside,  and  put  them  over  the 
fire  in  some  water;  whenever  they  are  near 
boiling,  put  cold  water  to  them.  As  soon 
as  the  citrons  rise  to  the  top,  take  tliem  out, 
and  throw  them  into  cold  water.  They 
must  then  be  put  on  the  fire  again,  in  the 
same  water,  and  boiled  gently  until  tender; 
then  take  them  out,  and  pat  them  in  cold 
water.  After  this,  boil  them  seven  or  eight 
times  in  clarified  sugar;  pour  the  whole 
into  an  earthen  pan,  and  let  it  stand.  The 
next  day  drain  die  fruit,  and  boil  up  the 
sirup  twenty  or  thirty  times;  add  a  little 
more  sugar,  and  pour  it  over  the  citrons; 
do  this  for  three  successive  days,  increasing 
the  degree  to  which  you  boil  the  sugar  daily, 
so  that  at  the  last  boiling  the  degree  may 
be  au  perle.  The  fruit  may  then  be  put 
into  pots. 

To  preserve  them  dry,  they  must  be  done 
exactly  the  same;  only,  instead  of  putting 
the  fruit  into  pots,  they  should  be  dried  on 
sieves  in  a  stove.  With  the  remaining  su- 
gar the  citrons  may  be  glazed. 

CITRON  RATAFIA.  Pare  seven  or 
eight  citrons  very  thin;  cut  the  peel  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  jar,  with 
three  pints  of  brandy,  and  let  them  infuse 
for  three  weeks ;  then  add  to  this  a  pound 
of  sugar,  boiled  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  and 
well  skimmed ;  let  it  stand  twelve  or  fifteen 
days  longer,  when  it  may  be  botded. 

CITRON,  SIRUP  OF.  (1)  Put  into 
a  china  bowl  alternate  layers  of  fine  powder- 
eugar,  and  citron,  pared,  and  cut  in  very 


thin  slices,  and  let  them  stand  till  the  next 
day;  tlien  stram  oflf  the  sirup,  and  clarify  it 
ovei'  a  gentle  fire. 

CITRON,  SIRUP  OF.  (2)  Put  the 
rinds  of  three  citrons  into  an  earthen  ves- 
sel, and  strain  on  them  the  juice;  to  this 
put  a  little  water;  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
basin  in  which  is  four  pounds  of  clarified 
sugar,  boiled  to  fort  boulet.  Place  this 
basin  in  a  large  saucepan,  half  filled  with 
water,  over  the  fire ;  stir  the  contents  of 
the  basin  frequently;  and  wiien  the  sugar  is 
entirely  dissolved,  and  the  sirup  quite  clear, 
take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  let  it 
cool.  As  soon  as  it  is  cold  it  may  be  bot- 
tled. 

CITRONNELLE     RATAFIA.      For 

two  quarts  of  the  best  brandy,  take  the 
zestes  or  rinds  of  a  dozen  fine  sound  lem- 
ons, two  drachms  of  bruised  cinnamon,  an 
ounce  of  coriander,  and  two  pounds  of  su- 
gar, dissolved  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water; 
infuse  the  whole  for  a  month,  then  strain 
and  bottle  it. 

CLOVES,  OIL  OF.  This  is  made  in 
the  same  manner  as  cinnamonum ;  the  quanti- 
ties are,  an  ounce  of  cloves  to  three  quarts 
of  brandy,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  four  pints  of  water. 

CLOVE  PASTILS.  Are  made  like 
those  of  cinnamon.  The  proportions  are 
six  cloves  to  half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon. 

CLOVES,  SIRUP  OF.  Put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  cloves,  and  a  quart  of  boiling 
water  into  a  stewpan,  cover  it  close,  and 
boil  them  gently  for  half  an  hour;  drain  the 
cloves,  and  to  a  pint  of  the  liquor  put  two 
pounds  of  sugar ;  beat  up  two  eggs  in  a  little 
cold  water,  add  them  to  the  above,  and  sim- 
mer the  whole  till  it  becomes  a  strong  sirup. 
When  cold,  bottle  it. 

COFFEE  BONBONS.  Take  about  a 
pint  of  coflfee  made  wiUi  water;  put  in  it  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar ;  set  it  on  the  fire  and 
boil  it  to  a  high  degree ;  then  add  a  full  pint 
of  double  cream,  and  let  it  boil  again,  keep- 
ing continually  stirring  till  it  comes  to  cara- 
mel height;  to  know  when  it  is  come,  to 
that  point,  you  must  have  a  basin  of  water 
by  you;  dip  your  finger  in  it,  and  put  it 
quickly  in  your  sugar,  then  in  the  water 
again,  to  remove  the  sugar,  which  will  have 
stuck  to  it ;  take  a  bit  of  it  in  your  teeth ; 
if  it  is  hard  in  its  crackling,  take  it  off,  it 
is  sufficiently  done ;  pour  it  upon  a  tin  plate, 
which  must  be  rubbed  before  with  a  little 
butter,  or  it  will  stick  to  the  plate;  then 
spread  it  with  a  rolling  pin ;   (observe,  the 


CON 


276 


CRE 


rolling  pin  must  likewise  be  rubbed  with 
butter,  for  fear  it  should  stick ; )  when  it  is 
warm,  you  may  cut  it  into  little  scpiares,  lo- 
zenges, or  any  other  shaped  pastilles,  and 
draw  a  few  strokes  over  them  with  a  knife. 

COFFEE  CONSERVES.  Clarify  and 
boil  to  the  first  degree  a  pound  of  sugar ; 
take  the  sugar  off  the  fire,  and  put  into  it 
one  cup  of  coffee ;  stir  it  about  until  it  conies 
to  the  sixtli  degree,  that  the  conserve  may 
take  the  sugar  and  dry. 

COFFEE  EGGS.  Make  some  good 
strong  coffee;  let  it  rest  to  clear  as  usual, 
and  sweeten  it  with  sugar  according  to  dis- 
cretion; teat  up  six  yolks  of  eggs,  with 
about  four  cups  of  coffee,  and  sift  it;  pour 
this  into  little  moulds  in  the  form  of  eggs,  or 
of  any  other,  (do  not  fill  them  quite,)  and 
bake  in  a  mild  oven,  or  a  Dutch  one,  or 
with  a  brazing-pan;  cover  between  two 
fires.  They  are  made  after  this  manner,  in 
tlie  shape  of  any  fruits  or  birds,  if  you  have 
proper  moulds,  eitlier  of  copper  or  china, 
&c. 

COLTSFOOT,  SIRUP  OF.  Take  of 
coltsfoot  six  ounces,  maidenhair  two  ounces, 
hyssop.one  ounce,  li(juorice-root  one  ounce; 
boil  ihem  in  two  quarts  of  spring  water  till 
one  fourth  is  consumed ;  then  strain  it,  and 
put  to  the  liquor  two  pounds  of  fine  povvdei- 
Bugar;  clarify  it  with  the  whites  of  eggs, 
and  boil  it  till  it  is  nearly  as  thick  as 
honey. 

CONSERVES,  DRIED.  For  all  sorts 
of  conserves,  the  sugar  should  be  prepared 
to  the  ninth  degree,  according  to  the  quan- 
tity wanted ;  they  are  all  made  much  after 
tlie  same  manner,  the  oidy  difference  l)eing 
in  the  quantity  of  fruits  pro|x>sed.  Con- 
serves are  made  with  all  sorts  of  sweetmeat 
marmalade,  sifted  in  a  sieve,  and  soaked 
pretty  dry  over  a  slow  fire ;  use  about  half 
a  pound  of  the  sugar  tlius  prepared,  to  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweetmeat  marmalade; 
take  the  sugar  off  the  fire  to  work  them 
well  together;  warm  the  whole  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  pour  it  into  paper  cases  made  for 
the  purpose;  when  it  is  cool  it  may  be  cut 
into  cakes  of  what  size  you  please. 

CONSERVE  OF  FOUR  FRUITS. 
Take  strawberries,  currants,  clierries,  and 
raspberries,  of  each  a  quarter  of  a  pound, 
and  three  pounds  of  sugar.  Bruise  your 
fruit,  and  having  strained  off  the  juice,  put 
it  in  a  saucepan  over  a  gentle  fire,  stirring 
it  till  reduced  to  half.  Dissolve  the  sugar, 
fikim,  and  boil  it  to  casae;  take  it  from  the 
fii'e  while  you  put  in  the  juice,  then  put  it 
oa  again,  and  give  it  one  boil,  take  it  off, 


and  keep  stirring  till  the  sugar  bubbles,  when 
the  conserve  may  be  poured  into  moulds. 

CONSERVES,  HARD  IN  MOULDS. 

These  are  made  in  the  same  manner  aa 
other  conserves,  except  that  they  are  com- 
posed of  sugar,  and  distilled  aromatic  wa- 
ter ;  and  may  be  colored  like  pastils. 

CORIANDER  DRAGEES.  Take  any 
quantity  of  coriander  seeds,  put  them  in  the 
tossing-pan  over  the  fire,  and  let  them  warm; 
when  they  are  warm  throw  in  about  half  a 
glass  of  vinegar,  stir  theui  well  till  they  are 
dry;  have  clarified  sugar,  vvliioh  boil  in  an- 
other pan ;  then  when  the  corianders  are 
dry,  add  a  little  gum  to  them,  and  do  the 
same  again  till  they  are  dry,  and  continue 
so  doing  till  you  see  the  coriandei"s  are  cov- 
ered to  the  size  you  want  to  have  them; 
when  that  is  done,  take  the  corianders  out 
from  the  pan,  wash  them  woll,  and  put  them 
in  again,  and  stir  them  well  till  they  are  all 
warm ;  then  take  your  clarified  sugar,  which 
you  have  previoui^ly  boiled  to  the  first  de- 
gree; when  this  is. done,  put  it  in  an  instru- 
ment of  copper,  made  on  fjurpose  for  the 
operation,  and  at  the  bottom  of  which  there 
is  a  little  hole;  hang  it  up  by  a  packthread 
string,  that  the  sugar  njay  fall  from  about  a 
yard  height  into  the  pan  where  tlie  corian- 
ders are ;  while  the  sugar  falls  into  your  pan 
keep  stirring  well  your  drage.es  till  you  see 
they  are  well  jjeailed  over,  or  rough  and 
grainy ;  when  they  are  sufficiently  so,  take 
them  out,  and  place  tliem  in  the  stove  to 
finish  drying. 

CORIANDER  SUGARED.  These 
seeds  are  sugared  in  the  same  manner  as 
sugared  almonds. 

CREAM,    BAIN-MARIE.      Mix    up 

whatever  ingredient  of  which  the  cream 
is  to  be  made,  with  eggs  and  sugar ;  for  the 
proportions,  see  the  respective  articles; 
strain  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  pour 
the  preparation  into  a  mould  lightly  buttered 
witliin  side.  Put  this  mould  into  a  large 
saucepan,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  boil- 
ing water  to  reach  within  an  inch  of  the 
mould ;  place  the  saucepan  on  hot  ashes, 
cover  it,  and  place  hot  coals  on  the  lid; 
renew  the  fire  underneath  occasionally,  so 
as  to  keep  the  water  at  the  same  tempera- 
ture, that  is,  nearly,  but  never  quite,  boil- 
ing for  an  hour  and  a  half;  then,  if  the 
cream  is  properly  set,  which  may  be  known 
by  touching  it  with  your  finger,  and  observ- 
ing wheUier  it  may  be  easily  detached  from 
the  mould,  take  it  from  the  bain-marie  and 
let  it  stand;  when  no  more  than  lukewarm, 
turn  it  out  on  your  dish. 

It  sometimes  happens,  unavoidably,  that 


CRE 


277 


CRO 


bubbles  arise  on  the  surface  of  the  cream ; 
in  such  a  case,  boil  a  glass  of  cream,  and 
add  to  it,  by  degrees,  three  yolks  of  eggs; 
stir  it  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  mix 
three  ounces  of  fine  sugar  with  it,  and  con- 
tinue stirring  it  over  the  fire,  till  of  a  proper 
consistence,  and  on  tlie  point  of  boiling, 
then  take  it  off  and  strain  it.  Wiien  the 
cream  is  ready  for  table,  cover  it  complete- 
ly witli  the  last  made  cream,  which  will 
hide  its  defects. 

CREAM  BISCUITS.  Break  six  eggs, 
separate  the  yolks  and  whites,  beat  the 
former  with  six  ounces  of  powder-sugar, 
and  the  same  of  flour ;  whisk  the  whites, 
and  then  mix  them  together ;  add  to  it 
whipped  cream,  in  proportion  to  the  sugar 
and  flour,  stir  it  carefully,  pour  this  into 
moulds  or  paper  cases,  and  bake. 

CREAM  CARAMEL.  Put  a  pint  of 
milk  and  half  a  pint  of  cream,  with  a  bit 
of  cinnamon,  some  coriander-seeds,  and 
the  peel  of  a  young  lemon,  into  a  saucepan, 
and  boil  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
then  take  it  ofif  the  fire ;  and  lx>il  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  with  half  a  glass  of  wa- 
ter, until  it  becomes  of  a  nice  dark  color; 
take  it  off"  the  fire,  and  mix  with  the  cream ; 
then  put  it  on  the  fire  again,  until  the  sugar 
and  cream  are  well  mixed  together;  then 
place  a  saucepan,  with  some  hot  water  in 
it,  over  hot  ashes ;  take  a  dish,  in  which 
you  intend  serving,  and  pour  into  it  your 
cream,  then  place  it  in  the  saucepan ;  put 
on  the  lid  of  the  saucepan,  with  fire  ai)ove, 
and  let  it  boil  till  the  cream  is  set.  Serve 
hot. 

CREAM,  SNOW.  Put  to  a  quart  of 
cream  the  whites  of  three  eggs  well  l)eaten, 
four  spoonfuls  of  sweet  wine,  sugar  to  your 
taste,  and  a  bit  of  lemon-peel ;  whip  it  to  a 
froth;  remove  die  peel,  and  serve  in  a  dish. 

CREAM  OF  ANY  PRESERVED 
FRUIT.  Take  half  a  pound  of  the  pulp 
of  any  preserved  fruit,  put  it  in  a  large  pan, 
put  to  it  the  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs,  beat 
together  well  for  an  hour;  lake  it  off  with 
a  spoon,  and  lay  it  heaped  on  a  dish,  or 
glass  salver,  with  other  creams,  or  put  it 
in  the  middle  of  a  basin.  Raspberries  will 
not  do  this  way. 

CREAM  RHENISH.  Put  over  the 
fire  a  pint  of  Rhenish  wine,  a  stick  of  cin- 
namon, and  half  a  pound  of  sugar;  while 
this  is  boiling,  take  seven  yolks  and  whites 
of  eggs,  beat  them  well  together  with  a 
whisk,  till  your  wine  is  half  driven  in  them, 
and  your  eggs  to  a  sirup;  strike  it  very  ffist 
witli  the  vvhisk>  till  it  comes  to  such  thick- 
24 


ness  that  you  may  lift  it  on  the  point  of  a 
knife,  but  be  sure  not  to  let  it  curdle;  add 
to  it  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  orange-flower 
water;  pour  it  into  your  dish;  garnish  it 
with  citron,  sugar,  or  biscuit,  and  serve. 

CREAM,  ROYAL  ICES.    Take  any 

quantity  of  cream,  add  to  it  yolks  of  eggs  in 
proportion  (that  is,  four  yolks  of  eggs  to 
every  pint  of  cream)  put  a  little  half  pound- 
ed coriander,  cinnamon,  orange  or  lemon- 
peel;  add  some  pounded  lump  sugar,  and 
set  it  on  the  fire  till  it  nearly  boils;  then 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  to  ice. 

CREAM,  WHITE  SHERBET.     Put 

the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful of  orange-flower  water  or  crisped  orange 
flowers  in  powder,  into  two  quarts  of  cream, 
and  boil  it  up  once  in  a  covered  saucepan ; 
then  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  add  to  it  tliree- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  and 
as  soon  as  it  is  peifectly  dissolved,  pour  the 
whole  into  a  sorbetiere,  which  place  in  an 
ice  pail,  and  proceed  to  cool  it  as  directed. 
See  Sherbet. 

CREAM  SNOW.  Mix  a  quart  of 
cream  with  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  sweeten 
it  with  sugar  and  rose  water,  and  strain 
them;  then  beat  up  the  cream  with  a  bundle 
of  reeds  tied  together,  or  with  a  whisk; 
and  as  the  snow  rises  take  it  up  with  a 
spoon  in  the  cullender,  that  the  liquid  part 
may  run  out:  when  you  have  taken  off  as 
much  of  the  snow  as  you  please,  boil  the 
rest  of  the  cream,  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
some  cloves,  and  a  little  bruised  ginger; 
boil  it  till  it  is  thick;  strain  it,  and  when 
it  is  cold,  put  it  into  a  dish,  and  lay  your 
snow  upon  it. 

CREAM,    CARAMEL    WHIPPED. 

Boil  six  ounces  of  sugar  to  caramel,  and 
when  it  has  acquired  the  proper  reddish, 
yellow  tinge,  dissolve  it  in  half  a  glass 
of  boiling  water,  over  hot  ashes;  after 
which,  it  must  be  reduced  to  a  rather  thick 
sirup.  When  cold,  mix  it  with  the  whip- 
ped cream  in  the  usual  way.  See  Wkip" 
ped  Cream. 

CROQUETTES    OF    DESTREES. 

Use  the  best  puff  paste;  roll  it  pretty  thin, 
and  cut  it  into  different  shapes,  as  fancy 
leads;  bake  it,  and  dress  each  piece  upon 
a  dish,  in  a  handsome  manner;  rub  them 
with  a  little  caramel,  to  make  them  stick 
as  you  place  them ;  dien  put  some  currant 
jelly  all  over  the  top,  and  make  what  flow- 
er or  design  you  please,  with  nonpareils  of 
different  colors,  round  it. 

CROQUETTES  OF  PARIS.    Take 


CUR 


^7S 


CUR 


a  stick  of  vanilla,  pound  it  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  and  sift  both  through  a 
silk  sieVe;  mix  it  with  seven  ounces  of 
sugar,  well  dried  and  pounded,  and  half 
a  pound  of  fine  sifted  flour ;  then  stir  in  the 
whites  of  four  eggs,  whipped  firm,  and 
work  tlie  whole  together  for  some  minutes. 

Heat  two  large  haking-plales  of  copper, 
rub  tliemover  lightly  with  virgin  wax;  when 
tliey  are  cold,  take  a  spoonful  of  the  prepa- 
ration, and  lay  it  on  the  plate  the  same  as 
the  spoon-biscuitP,  taking  care  to  lay  them 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart ;  when  both 
plates  are  full,  place  them  on  stools,  in  the 
oven  or  stove;  close  the  top,  and  lay  embers 
over  it,  so  that  the  croquettes  may  lie  as  far 
removed  from  the  fire  as  possible  ;  let  them 
remain  in  this  state  all  night;  the  next 
moming  put  them  into  a  moderate  oven,  and 
bake  them 'fifteen  or  twenty  minutes;  they 
should  then  quit  the  plate  easily,  and  be  of 
a  clear  reddish  color;  remove  them  from 
the  plates  whilst  hot.  The  croquettes 
may  be  flavored  according  to  your  fancy. 

CURACAO.  This  is  a  species  of  bitter 
©r  wild  orange,  of  which  the  rind  is  dried, 
and  may  be  had  at  the  druggists.  To  make 
the  liqueur  called  by  this  name,  wash  a 
pound  of  curacao  several  times  in  warm 
water;  then,  having  well  drained,  put  them 
into  a  vessel  with  four  quarts  of  brandy,  and 
one  of  water;  let  it  stand  closely  covered 
for  a  fortnight,  shaking  it  frequently;  distil 
it  after  that  in  the  usual  way,  and  drain  the 
curacao  on  a  sieve.  Sweeten  it  with  five 
pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar,  dissolved  in 
three  pints  of  water,  mix  it  with  the  spirit 
and  then  filter  it. 

CURDS  AND  WHEY.  Take  a  num- 
ber of  the  rough  coats  that  line  tlie  gizzards 
of  turkeys  and  fowls;  clean  them  from  the 
pebbles  they  contain,  rub  them  well  with 
scalt,  and  hang  them  to  dry.  This  makes  a 
more  tender  and  delicate  curd  than  common 
rennet.  When  to  l^e  used,  break  off  some 
bits  of  the  skin,  and  put  on  it  some  boiling 
water;  in  eight  or  nine  hours  use  the  liquor 
as  you  do  other  rennet. 

CURRANT  CAKES.  Pick  and  wash 
tlyj  currants,  either  white  or  red ;  to  two 
quarts  of  currants,  put  one  pint  of  water; 
when  boiled,  run  the  juice  through  a  jelly 
bag,  do  not  press  the  bag;  to  one  quart  of 
juice  put  three  pounds  of  sugar;  boil  up  the 
juice,  and  strew  in  the  sugar;  pour  it  into 
glasses,  dry  it  in  a  stove  till  it  will  turn  out, 
then  dry  the  cakes  on  plates. 

CURRANTS,    CONSERVE     OF. 

Take  tl>e  seeds  fiom  two  pounds  of  red  cur- 
rants, and  put  them  on  the  fire  in  a  silver 


pan,  to  dry  them;  then  press  them  through 
a  sieve,  and  put  them  again  on  the  fire,  stir- 
ring constantly  until  you  can  see  the  bottom 
of  the  pan;  then,  having  dissolved  and  boil- 
ed three  pounds  of  sugar  to  casse,  pour  it  on 
the  fruit,  stirring  continually;  in  a  short 
time  take  it  ofl^,  stirring  it  as  before  until  it 
bubbles ;  then  pour  it  into  moulds. 

CURRANT  ICES.  (1)  Boil  two  pounds 
of  red  currants  a  moment  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  raspberries;  rub  them  through  a 
sieve,  adding  a  pint  of  water,  and  then  the 
sugar,  which  must  be  very  well  dissolved 
before  icing. 

CURRANT  ICES.  (2)  Pick  some  cur- 
rants from  their  stalks,  and  squeeze  them 
through  a  sieve;  then  take  clarified  sugar, 
boil  it  to  a  very  high  degree,  add  it  to  your 
currant  juice,  and,  if  you  choose,  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  four  lemons,  it  will  make  it 
more  mellow;  strain  them  through  the  sieve 
a  second  time,  put  them  in  the  icing  pot,  and 
finish  the  same  as  all  other  ices. 

CURRANT  ICE  CREAM.  Take  one 
large  spoonfiil  and  a  half  of  currant  jelly, 
put  it  into  a  basin,  with  half  a  gill  of  sirup, 
squeeze  in  one  lemon  and  a  half;  add  a  pint 
of  cream  and  a  little  cochineal,  then  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  freeze  it  according  to 
custom. 

CURRANT  WATER  ICE.  Take  a 
large  spoonful  and  a  half  of  currant  jelly,  put 
it  into  a  basin,  and  add  to  it  the  juice  of 
two  lemons,  half  a  gill  of  sirup,  and  a  pint 
of  water:  then  freeze  it  rich. 

CURRANT  JELLY  FRAMBOISEE. 

Take  seven  pounds  of  fine  ripe  red  currants, 
three  of  white,  and  two  of  white  raspber- 
ries, press  them  through  a  very  close  horse- 
hair sieve;  pour  the  juice  on  nine  pounds 
of  double-refined  sugar,  broken  in  small 
pieces,  place  the  whole  on  a  brisk  fire,  tak- 
ing care  to  remove  the  scum  as  soon  as  it 
appears.  When  the  boilings  follow  each 
other  very  quickly,  take  out  the  skimmer, 
(which  should  be  of  copper)  stir  it,  and  let 
the  jelly  lall  from  it;  on  quitting  the  skim- 
mer it  ought  to  fall  like  treacle.  If  it  does 
so,  it  is  sufficiently  done.  This  jelly  should 
be  rose-ool(jred ;  by  making  it  entirely  of 
red  curnints  and  red  rasplierries,  the  color 
of  the  jelly  will  l)e  red. 

CURRANT  PASTE.  Pick  and  take 
the  seeds  fiom  ten  pounds  of  fine  red  cur- 
rants, crush  them,  and  having  pressed  out 
the  juice,  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve. 
Clarity  and  boil  to  casse  an  equal  quantity 
of  sugar,  pour  the  currant  juice  on  it,  set  the 


DRA 


279 


DRA 


whole  over  a  gentle  fire,  stirring  constantly 
until  it  becomes  of  a  proper  consistence, 
which  may  be  known  by  observing  when  the 
bottom  of  tlie  pan  can  be  seen  clearly ;  take 
it  off  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  that  is  the 
case,  and  pour  the  paste  into  tin  moulds, 
which  must  be  placed  on  slates,  or  copper 
plates:  smooth  the  tops  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife,  sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over,  and  place 
tliem  in  a  stove,  where  they  must  remain  till 
next  day ;  when  the  paste  should  be  turned 
in  the  moulds;  sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over 
them  again,  and  set  them  in  the  stove  a 
second  night;  on  the  following  day  remove 
them  from  the  moulds,  lay  it  in  boxes,  with 
white  paper  between  each  layer,  and  keep 
them  in  a  dry  place.  A  sixth  part  of  the 
quantity  of  raspberries  added  to  the  currants, 
would  greatly  improve  the  flavor  of  this 
paste. 

CURRANT  PASTILS.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  on  a  plate,  then 
a  quantity  of  curranLs,  which  squeeze  through 
a  sieve ;  when  that  is  done,  add  the  juice  to 
the  sugar,  till  it  makes  a  paste  as  clear  and 
thick  as  you  think  proper. 

CURRANT  SHRUB.  To  five  pints  of 
Currant  juice,  either  red  or  white,  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  loaf  sugar;  when  dissolved, 
put  to  it  one  gallon  of  rum  or  brandy ;  clear 
It  tlirough  a  flannel  bag. 

CURRANT  SIRUP.  Put  five  or  six 
pounds  of  red,  two  of  white  currants,  and 
two  bottles  of  raspberries,  into  a  sieve ;  crush 
them,  and  press  the  juice  through  it  into  a 
pan,  and  place  it  in  a  cellar  to  ferment;  in  a 
week's  lime,  pass  the  juice  through  a  strain- 
ing bag,  and  having  clarified,  and  boijed  to 
fort  souffle  four  pounds  of  sugar,  put  the 
juice  to  it,  and  boil  them  togelher  once; 
skim,  and  take  it  from  the  fire.  It  is  ne- 
cessary that  the  currant  juice  should  ferment, 
to  prevent  its  becoming  a  jelly  in  the  bottles. 


D. 


DRAGEES,  COMMON.  The  paste  for 
these  dragees  is  made  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  the  better  sort,  but  the  materials  differ 
a  little:  thus  to  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the 
gum,  take' either  equal  quantities  of  sugar 
and  powder,  or  one-third  of  the  former  to 
two-thirds  of  the  latter.  When  these  and 
tlie  gum  are  well  mixed,  roll  out  the  paste 
until  it  is  as  thin  as  the  back  of  a  knife- 
blade;  then  take  a  paste-cutter,  shaped  like 
a  sugar-loaf,  with  the  top  taken  oft",  with  the 
largest  end  of  which,  cut  as  many  pieces  of 
the   paste  as  will  about  two-tliirds  fill  the 


cutter ;  press  these  through  the  smaller  end 
into  paper  cases ;  set  them  in  a  warm  place 
for  several  days.  These  kind  of  dragees 
may,  if  liked,  be  sugared  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  almonds. 

DRAGEES  EN  PASTILLAGE.  These 
dragees  are  made  of  the  same  materials  as 
the  superfine  dragees;  the  only  difference 
consists  in  their  forms,  which  resemble  the 
bonbons:  to  make  them,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  a  number  of  wooden  moulds,  (pear- 
tree  wood  is  the  best),  on  which  must  be 
stamped  small  squares,  with  various  devices 
engraved  on  them.  Cut  your  paste  into 
small  pieces ;  press  each  piece  on  a  mould ; 
take  off  all  the  super-abundant  paste ;  then 
dip  your  finger  in  water,  and  with  it  remove 
the  paste  from  the  mould ;  dry  them  in  cases 
like  the  other  dragees. 

DRAGEES,    SUPERFINE.      Put    a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  best  gum-dragon 
into  a  pan,  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  cover, 
and  let  it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours;  then 
take  a  strong  close  cloth,  about  two  feet 
long,  and  put  a  part  of  your  gum  into  it; 
fold  it  three  times,  so  as  to  envelope  the  gum; 
then  wring  the  cloth,  by  which  means  the 
purest  gum  will  be  forced  through;  scrape 
it  off  carefidly  with  a  knife,  and  then  proceed 
in  the  same  way,  until  all  the  gum  be  strain- 
ed ;  put  it  into  a  marble  mortar,  and  stir  it 
about  with  a  pestle  for  half  an  hour;  then 
add  to  it  a  pound  of  double-refined  sifted 
sugar;  mix  them  together  well,  until  it  be- 
comes a  stiff  paste;  divide  this  into  five 
parts,  four  of  which  must  be  tinged  as  fol- 
lows: red,  blue,  yellow,  and  green,  (the  fifth 
left  white),  with  the  usual  coloring  materials. 
Before,  however,  they  are  colored,  add  to 
each  piece,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  double- 
refined  sugar,  sifted,  dipping  the  paste  in 
water  occasionally,  to  enable  it  to  receive 
the  additional  quantity  of  sugar.  When  you 
mix  in  the  coloring  materials,  add  also  a 
corresponding  perfume:  as,  to  the  red,  rose- 
water,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  roses; 
to  the  blue,  oil  of  violets;  to  the  yellow,  es- 
sence of  cedar;  to  the  green,  essence  of 
bergamot ;  and  with  the  white,  mix  a  little 
orange-flower  water,  and  some  drops  of  es- 
sence o{  Neroli. 

Your  paste  l^ing  thus  prepared,  form  it 
of  whatever  little  ornaments  you  please,  such 
as  eggs,  balls,  turnips,  (adding  green  leavea 
to  these),  &c.  of  the  white;  of  the  yellow, 
apricots,  pears,  carrots,  &c. ;  plums,  &c. 
of  the  blue;  and  so  on;  rolling  them  in  your 
hands  to  smootli  them,  and  niake  them  all 
quite  small;  to  those  which  imitate  fruits, 
add  tails  and  tops,  cut  fiom  cheri-j' -stalks, 
and  stuck  on  whilst  the  paste  is  damp;  and 
1  with  a  hair-pencil,  dipped  in  powdered  cin- 


EGG 


280 


riL 


nabar,  tinge  the  pears,  apples,  and  apricots, 
slightly  breathing  on  ihera  to  moisten  the 
aurface.  When  all  are  done,  put  them  into 
paper  cases,  and  set  them  in  a  warm  place 
for  several  days,  to  dry. 


'EGGS  CARAMEL.  Take  the  yolks 
of  a  dozen  hard  eggs,  bruise  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan, with  some  powder-sugar,  three  almond 
biscuits,  and  half  a  glass  of  cream ;  make 
these  into  a  paste,  of  which  form  little  eggs, 
dip  them  in  caramel  sugar,  and  brown  them. 

EGGS  DUCHESSE.  Boil  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  cream  with  some  sugar,  orange- 
flower,  candied  lemon-peel,  marchpane,  and 
burnt  almonds,  all  chopped  small  or  bruised ; 
•whip  up  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  well,  and 
then  take  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  them  at 
a  time,  and  poach  them  in  the  cream ;  drain, 
and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  so  as  to  resemble 
^gs  poached  without  the  yolks.  When  all 
the  whites  are  thus  used,  put  the  cream  on 
the  fire,  and  reduce  it,  and  as  the  dish  is 
sent  to  table,  add  the  yolks  to  the  cream, 
and  pour  die  sauce  gently  over  the  eggs. 

EGGS  FILAGRAMME.  Take  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  half  a  pound  of  fine  powder- 
gugar,  and  make  it  into  a  clear  sirup  with 
the  white  of  an  egg',  beat  up  well  eight 
eggs,  and  pour  them  through  a  colander 
into  tlie  sirup;  a  very  short  time  is  sufficient 
to  cook  them.     Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

EGGS  OF  SNOW.  Break  ten  eggs, 
and  having  separated  the  yolks  and  whites, 
whip  the  latter  as  for  biscuits;  then  add 
two  spoonfuls  of  powder-sugar,  and  a  little 
dried  orange-flower  in  powder.  Pour  a 
quart  of  milk,  six  ounces  of  powder-sugar, 
and  a  little  orange-flower,  into  a  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils  put  into  it,  a  dessert-s|x»on- 
fol  at  a  time,  of  the  white  of  egg ;  poach  the 
latter,  and  then  set  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain. 
Then  beat  up  the  yolks,  and  mix  them  with 
half  the  milk,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it 
with  a  wooden-spoon  till  it  begins  to  thick- 
en ;  then  take  it  off",  lay  the  jwached  eggs  in 
a  dish,  and  cover  them  with  tlie  yolks  and 
milk. 

EGGS,  WHITE  OF.  To  make  a  dish 
of  these,  take  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs, 
beat  them  up  with  four  spoonfuls  of  rose-wa- 
ter, some  lemon-peel  grated,  and  a  little 
nutmeg;  sweeten  them  with  sugar,  mix 
them  well,  and  boil  them  in  four  bladders; 
tie  them  in  the  shape  of  an  egg^  and  boil 
them  hard;   tliey  will  take  half  an  hour; 


lay  them  in  a  dish ;  when  cold,  mix  half  a 
pint  of  thick  cream,  a  gill  of  mountain,  and 
the  juice  of  half  an  orange  all  together; 
sweeten  it  with  fine  sugar,  and  serve  it  over 
the  eggs. 


FILBERT  BISCUITS.  Take  some 
Barcelona  filbert  nuts,  and  put  them  in  a  mor- 
tar to  break  their  shells ;  pick  all  the  shells 
from  them  clean,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
very  fine,  and  mix  whites  of  eggs  with  them; 
take  care  they  do  not  oil;  mix  three  pounds 
of  powdered-sugar,  with  the  nuts  and  whites 
of  egg»,  to  a  proper  thickness ;  let  your  oven 
be  of  a  moderate  heat,  then  widi  the  spaddle 
and  knife,  drop  small  pieces,  about  half  as 
big  as  a  nutmeg ;  put  two  or  three  sheets  of 
paper  under  them,  let  them  bake  of  a  fine 
brown,  and  all  alike;  and  let  them  be  cold 
before  you  take  them  ofi"  tlie  paper. 

FILBERT     CANNELLONS.      Bum 

and  pound  six  ounces  of  filberts,  moist- 
ening them  with  white  of  egg;  when  well 
pounded,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fine  pounded  sugar,  and  half  the  white  of  an 
egg;  dry  this  paste  a  little,  and  then  press 
it  through  a  syringe,  cutting  the  cannellons 
about  four  inches  in  length ;  make  the  fri- 
ture  quite  hot,  dip  the  cannellons  in  baiter, 
and  fry  them.  Sprinkle  them  with  sugar, 
and  glaze  them  with  a  salamander.  T-.ike 
particular  care  to  keep  the  cannellons  per- 
fectly straight. 

FILBERT  BURNT,  ICE  CREAM. 
Roast  some  Barcelona  nuts  well  in  the  oven, 
and  pound  them  a  little  with  some  cream; 
put  four  eggs  into  a  stewpan,  with  one  pint 
of  cream  and  two  gills  of  sirup;  boil  it  till  it 
becomes  thick,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
freeze  it;  then  mix  the  filberts  with  it  be- 
fore you  put  it  into  your  moulds. 

FILBERT  MACAROONS.  Take  a 
pound  of  filberts,  and  put  a  quarter  of  them 
into  a  preserving-pan  (immediately  after  you 
have  taken  tiiem  from  the  shells,)  over  a 
moderate  fire;  stir  them  continually  with  a 
silver  spoon,  until  ihey  are  colored,  and  the 
skin  begins  to  peel  off;  then  take  them  out ; 
rub  off  the  skin  entirely,  and  when  quite 
cold,  pound  them  with  a  little  white  of  egg: 
proceed  in  the  same  manner  with  the  re- 
maining three-quarters;  and  when  all  are 
thus  pounded  separately,  put  the  whole  to- 
gether into  the  mortar,  with  a  pound  of 
sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggif,  and  beat 
them  for  ten  minutes;  after  which,  add  two 
pounds  more  of  sifted  sugar,  previously  beat- 


GOO 


281 


GRE 


en  up  with  six  whites  of  eggs;  stir  all  these 
together  well  for  five  or  six  minutes,  when 
the  preparation  should  be  sufficiently  firm,  to 
prevent  its  spreading  when  laid ;  if,  how- 
ever, it  he  too  firm,  add  to  it  more  white  of 
egg.  When  you  have  proceeded  so  far,  wet 
tlie  palms  of  your  hands,  and  loll  a  spoonful 
of  the  preparation  to  the  size  and  form  of  a 
nutmeg;  when  all  done,  dip  your  hands  in 
water,  and  pass  them  gently  over  the  maca- 
roons, which  will  make  their  surface  smooth 
and  shining;  put  them  into  a  nearly  cold 
oven;  close  it  tight,  and  let  them  remain  in 
it  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Lay  the 
macaroons  at  least  an  inch  apart,  and  as 
round  as  possible. 

FLOWERS  IN  SUGAR.  Clarify  su- 
gar to  a  caramel  height,  which  may  be 
known  by  dipping  in  a  fork,  and  if  it  throws 
the  sugar  as  fine  as  threads,  put  in  the  flow- 
ers. Have  ready  some  tea-cups,  widi  the 
insides  rubbed  with  sweet  oil;  put  into  each 
cup  four  table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar  and 
flowers,  and  when  cold  turn  them  out  of  the 
cups,  and  serve  them  to  table  piled  one  upon 
another. 

FRUIT  BISCUITS.  To  the  pulp  of 
any  scalded  fruit,  put  an  e(jual  quantity  of 
sugar  sifted,  l)eat  it  two  hours;  then  put  it 
into  little  while  paj^er  forms;  dry  them  in  a 
cool  oven,  turn  them  the  next  day,  and  in 
two  or  three  days  box  them. 

FRUIT,  PRESERVED,  BISCUITS 
OF.  Take  dried  preserved  fruits,  such  as 
apricots,  verjuice,  grapes,  plums,  oranges, 
and  a  little  orange-llower  marmalade; 
pound  them  together,  and  sift  in  a  sieve; 
then  mix  it  with  yolks  of  new  laid  eggs,  and 
fine  powder-sugar,  until  it  comes  to  a  supple 
paste,  not  too  licjuid;  then  bake  them  on 
paper  in  a  moderate  oven. 


G. 


GINGER,  CANDIED.  Put  an  ounce 
of  ginger,  grated  fine,  and  a  poimd  of  sifted 
sugar  into  a  preserving-pan  with  as  much 
water  as  will  dissolve  it.  Stir  them  well 
together  over  a  slow  fire,  till  the  sugar  he- 
gins  to  boil ;  then  add  aiiotlier  pound,  stir- 
ring constantly  till  it  thickens.  Take  it 
from  the  fiie,  drop  it  on  earthen  dishes,  set 
them  in  a  warm  place  to  dry,  and  they  will 
be  hard  and  brittle  and  look  white. 

GOOSEBERRY  CAKES.     Break  the 

gooseberries,  press  out  the  juice,  and  strain 

it  through  a  muslin;    to  one  pint  of  juice  a 

pound  of  sugar;  boil  up  tlie  juice;  strew  in 

24* 


the  sugar:  stir  it  well;  simmer  it  well  till 
the  sugar  is  melted;  pour  it  into  glasses: 
dry  it  in  a  stove  till  it  will  turn  out,  then 
dry  the  cakes  on  plates. 

GOOSEBERRIES,  GREEN,  COM- 
POTE OF.  Give  them  a  little  cut  on  one 
side  to  squeeze  out  the  seeds,  and  put  them 
in  hot  water  to  scald,  till  they  rise  to  the 
top;  then  put  cold  water  to  them,  adding  a 
little  salt,  to  bring  them  to  their  natural 
green ;  simmer  them  in  clarified  sugar,  and 
let  them  remain  in  sometime  to  imbil)e  the 
sweet ;  take  them  out,  and  put  them  in  the 
compotier  ;  reduce  the  sirup  to  a  good  con- 
sistence, and  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  This 
is  for  green  gooseberries ;  but  if  you  make 
use  of  preserved  ones,  warm  them  in  their 
own  sirup  and  a  little  water,  and  serve  it 
eidier  hot  or  cold.  These  will  not  keep 
long,  particularly  if  they  have  been  wanned 
again:  if  exposed  to  the  air  any  time,  they 
will  lose  their  color. 

GRAPE  ICE.  Take  ripe  grajies,  pick 
them  from  their  stalks,  pass  them  through 
a  sieve;  mix  some  sugar  with  the  juice  of 
four  lemons  squeezed  upon  it;  pass  the 
whole  together  a  second  time  through  a 
sieve,  then  freeze  it. 

GRAPES  RATAFIA.  Take  some 
fine  muscadine  grapes,  pick  them  from  the 
stalks;  bruise  and  press  them,  so  as  to  ex- 
tract all  their  juice  ;  then  dissolve  some  su- 
gar in  the  grape  juice,  adding  to  it  brandy 
and  cinnamon  ;  let  the  whole  infuse  for  a 
fortnight  ;  then  strain  it  through  a  filtering 
bag,  and  bottle  it  off.  The  proper  propt)r- 
tions  are  one  pint  of  brandy,  and  ten  ounces 
of  sugar  to  one  pint  of  grape  juice. 

GREEN-GAGES  TO  CANDY.  When 
finished  in  the  sirup,  (see  greengages  to 
preserve,)  put  a  layer  into  a  new  sieve, 
and  dip  it  suddenly  into  hot  water,  to  take 
off'  the  simp  that  hangs  about  it;  then  put 
it  on  a  na|)kin  before  the  fire  to  drain,  and 
then  do  some  more  on  the  sieve.  Have 
ready  some  sifted  double-refined  sugar,  sift 
this  all  over  every  part  of  the  fruit,  till  it  ia 
perfectly  white.  Set  it  on  the  shallow  end 
of  sieves  in  a  lightly  warm  oven,  and  turn 
it  two  or  three  times.  It  must  not  be  cold 
till  dry.     Watch  it  carefully. 

GREEN   GAGES   TO   PRESERVE. 

■  You  must  choose  the  largest,  when  they  be- 
gin to  soften;  split  without  paring  them,  and 
having  previously  weighed  an  equal  quanti- 
ty of  sugar,  strew  a  part  of  it  over  them; 
blanch  the  kernels  with  a  small  sharp  knife  ; 
next  day,  pour  the  sirup  from  the  fruit,  and 
boil  it  with  tlie  other  sugar,  very  gently,  for 


JUN 


282 


LEM 


BIX  or  eight  minutes ;  skim,  and  add  the 
phims  and  kernels.  Simmer  till  clear, 
taking  off  any  scum  that  risps ;  put  tlie  fruit 
single  into  small  pots,  and  pour  the  sirup 
and  kernels  upon  it. 

GUM  PASTE.  Put  a  pound  of  gum- 
dragon  in  a  basin,  with  warm  water  enough 
to  cover  one  inch  above  the  gum ;  set  this  in 
a  warm  closet  for  four  and  twenty  hours ; 
have  a  new  tammy  ready  laid  over  a  dish ; 
spread  it  on  it,  and  squeeze  through  as 
iBuch  as  you  can  at  first;  then  opeu  the 
tammy,  spread  the  gum  out  again,  and  then 
squeeze  it;  repeat  this  till  the  whole  is 
tlirough;  then  lay  it  on  the  slab,  work  it 
well  with  your  hand,  put  in  nearly  all  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  a  pound  of  the  best 
double  refined  powder-sugar,  by  degrees,  as 
you  work  it;  but  before  you  have  put  in  the 
whole  of  the  sugar,  begin  lo  add  some  of 
the  best  starch  powder;  blend  them  thor- 
oughly together,  till  the  paste  l)egins  to 
take  an  impression;  then  roll  it  in  a  cloth, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  damp  place  for  a  week 
or  ten  days,  (it  is  the  better  for  keeping), 
work  it  with  powder,  and  it  will  cut  and 
mould  to  any  shape  you  please,  and  when 
you  want  it  to  harden,  set  it  in  a  dry  place; 
if  you  wish  to  color  it,  to  make  it  red,  use 
cochineal  or  carmine ;  for  blue  or  violet 
color,  use  indigo ;  for  yellow,  saffron  ;  for 
green,  the  juice  of  beet  leaves,  scralded  over 
the  fire,  the  tliick  part  mix  with  the  paste. 
When  you  put  in  colors,  be  careful  to  blend 
them  well,  and  be  particular  that  the  color 
is  good. 


H. 


HARTSHORN  CREAM.  Boil  a  quar- 
ter  of  a  pound  of  hartshorn-shavings  in  three 
pints  of  water ;  when  reduced  to  half  a  pint, 
strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag;  put  it  to  a 
pint  of  cream  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
powder-sugar,  and  give  them  one  lx)il  to- 
gether;  then  put  it  into  cups  or  glasses,  and 
let  them  stand  till  cold,  when  turn  them  out 
on  a  dish;  stick  some  sliced  blanched  al- 
monds on  the  top  of  each.  White  wine 
and  sugar  is  usually  eaten  with  them. 


JUNIPER  BERRIES,  ICES  OF.   In- 

fuse  some  juniper  berries  in  warm  water, 
or  take  about  a  handful  of  the  berries,  and 
boil  them  a  moment  with  a  pint  of  water, 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  bit  of  cinna- 
mon, and  sift  them  ituough  a  sieve  with  ex- 
pression, and  finish  the  same  as  all  othei-s. 


JUNIPER  RATAFIA.  Take  three 
ounces  of  juniper  berries,  anise,  corian- 
der, cinnamon,  and  cloves,  of  each  eight- 
een grains;  bruise  all  these  ingredients,  and 
infuse  them,  for  a  month,  in  three  pints  of 
brandy;  then  strain  it,  add  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  dissolved  in  half  a  pint 
of  water,  stir  them  together,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  jelly-bag,  and  bottle  it;  keep  it 
well  corked. 


LEMON  BRANDY.  Put  the  peel  of 
two  lemons  into  a  bottle  of  brandy,  let  it 
stand  for  four  and  twenty  hours,  then  strain 
i  it ;  boil  two  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  water;  then  skim,  and  let  it 
stand  till  cold;  when  cold,  mix  it  with  the 
brandy. 

LEMON  CAKES.  Quarter  as  many 
lemons  as  you  think  proper,  they  must  have 
good  rinds,  and  boil  them  in  two  or  three 
waters,  till  they  are  tender,  and  have  lost 
their  bitterness;  then  skin  them,  and  put 
them  in  a  napkin  to  fry;  with  a  knife  take 
all  the  skins  and  seeds  out  of  the  pulp,  shred 
the  peels  fine,  put  them  to  the  pulp,  weigh 
them,  and  put  rather  more  than  their  weight 
of  fine  sugar  into  a  tossing-pan,  with  just 
sufficient  water  to  dissolve  the  sugar;  boil 
it  -till  it  becomes  perfectly  dissolved,  tmd 
then  by  degrees  put  in  the  peel  and  pulps; 
stir  them  well  before  you  set  them  on  the 
fire,  boil  it  very  gently  till  it  looks  clear  and 
thick,  and  then  put  it  into  flat-lxittomed 
glasses ;  set  them  in  a  stove,  and  keep  them 
in  a  continual  and  moderate  heat,  and  turn 
them  out  upon  glasses,  as  soon  as  they  are 
candied. 

LEMON  COMPOTE.  Cut  them  in 
small  pieces,  and  boil  them  in  water  till 
they  are  tender,  then  change  them  into  cold 
water;  then  make  a  sirup  with  a  glass  of 
water,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
and  put  in  the  fruit;  let  it  simmer  gently 
over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour,  and  serve 
cold. 

LEMON  CONSERVE.  Grate  the  rind 
of  a  lemon  on  a  piece  of  sugar  (about  a 
pound,)  scrape  off  the  surface  of  the  sugar 
as  the  lemon  adheres  to  it,  until  you  have 
rasped  the  whole  of  the  rind ;  squeeze  half 
the  juice  on  the  scraped  sugar,  and  then 
boil  the  rest  to  la  grande  plume;  take  it 
from  the  fire  when  at  this  degree,  and  let  it 
stand  a  little;  stir  in  the  lemon  gently,  and 
when  it  forms  a  sort  of  glace  on  the  top  of 
the  st^ar,  pour  the  conserve  into  moulds  ; 


LEM 


283 


LEM 


being  cAreful,  however,  that  it  is  not  too 
hot. 

LEMOIV  DROPS.  Grate  three  large 
lemons,  with  a  large  piece  of  double  refined 
sugar;  tlieii  scrape  the  sugar  into  a  plate, 
add  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour  ;  mix  well 
together,  and  beat  it  into  a  light  paste,  with 
the  white  of  an  egg.  Drop  it  upon  white 
paper,  put  them  on  a  tin-plate,  and  set  them 
in  a  modeiate  oven. 

LEMOx\  ICE  CREAM.  Take  the  juice 
of  three  or  four  lemons,  and  grate  the  peel 
of  one  lemon;  add  two  gills  of  sirup,  and 
one  pint  of  cream  ;  mix  it  all  together,  pass 
it  through  a  sieve,  and  freeze  it. 

LEMONS  TO  KEEP  FOR  PUD- 
DINGS. When  you  squeeze  the  fruit, 
throw  the  outside  in  water,  without  the 
pulp  ;  let  them  remain  in  the  same  a  fort- 
night, adding  no  more ;  boil  them  in  the 
same  till  tender ;  strain  it  from  them,  and 
when  they  are  nearly  dry,  throw  them  into 
any  jar  of  candy  you  may  have  remaining 
from  old  sweetmeats ;  or,  if  you  have  none, 
boii  a  small  quantity  of  sirup,  of  common 
loaf  sugar  and  water,  and  pour  over  them  ; 
in  a  week  or  ten  days,  boil  them  gently  in 
it  till  they  look  clear;  and  that  they  may 
be  covered  with  it  in  the  jar,  you  may  cut 
each  half  of  the  fruit  in  two,  and  they  will 
occupy  a  smaller  space. 

LEMON  PASTILS.  Take  half  a  pound 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  sifted  as  fine  as  pos- 
sible ;  put  it  in  a  plate,  take  three  or  four 
lemons,  and  squeeze  their  juice  over  the  su- 
gar; mix  it  well  with  a  spoon,  till  you  make 
It  rather  a  thickish  paste,  so  that  you  can 
tJike  it  upon  a  knife ;  then  take  half  a  sheet 
of  paper,  and  cover  it  with  little  round  and 
flat  drops,  about  the  size  of  a  sixpence,  place 
them  in  a  stove  with  a  slow  fire  till  they  are 
quite  dry,  then  take  them  off  from  the  paper; 
you  may  use,  if  you  please,  some  of  the  peel 
grated,  but  notchi{)ped;  for,  as  it  is  a  melt- 
ing pastil,  some  of  the  bits  would  remain  in 
the  mouth. 

LEMON    PEEL    CANDIED.      Take 

some  thick-rinded  lemons,  pare  off  the  yel- 
low |)epl,  and  thiow  it  into  Iwiling  water  till 
soft,  when  it  must  be  put  into  cold  water. 
Clarify  some  fine  sugar,  and  boil  it  au  petit 
lisse,  and  having  drained  the  lemon-peel, 
pour  on  it  the  sirup  (whilst  hot) ;  the  next 
day  boil  the  sirup  again,  and  return  it  to  the 
peel;  the  third  and  fourth  days  proceed  in 
the  same  manner,  adding  a  small  quantity  of 
clarified  sugar;  the  last  time  the  sirup  is 
boiled,  as  soon  as  it  rises  to  perle,  put  in 
the  peel,  cover  and  boil  the  whole  together 


once,  and  when  cold,  drain  and  dry  them  in 
a  stove. 

LEMON  PEEL,  TO  CANDY.  Take 
some  lemon-peels,  and  clean  them  well  from 
the  pulp,  and  let  them  lay  two  days  in  salt 
and  water;  then  scald  and  drain  them  dry, 
then  boil  them  in  a  thin  sirup  till  they  look 
quite  clear.  After  which,  take  them  out, 
and  have  ready  a  thick  sirup  made  with  fine 
loaf  sugar;  put  them  into  it,  and  simmer 
them  till  the  sugar-candies  about  the  pan  and 
[)eels.  Then  lay  them  separately  on  a)  hair 
sieve  to  drain,  strew  sifted  sugar  over  them, 
and  set  them  to  dry  in  a  slow  oven. 

LEMON  PEEL,  CARAMEL.      Take 

some  veiy  dry  preserved  lemon-peel,  and 
cut  it  into  several  small  square  pieces;  put 
these  pieces  each  on  the  point  of  little  sticks 
for  this  purpose,  and  dip  them  into  caramel 
sugar  as  directed.  See  chestnuts  au  car- 
amel. 

LEMON   PEEL  SIRUP    OF.    Take 

five  ounces  of  fresh  lemon-peel,  put  it  into  a 
glass  cucurbite,  which  has  been  gradually 
heated ;  pour  on  them  two  pounds  of  nearly 
boiling  water;  close  the  vessel  very  tight, 
and  place  it  on  hot  ashes  for  twelve  hours ; 
after  which,  let  the  infusion  run  out  gently 
without  pressing  the  peel ;  add  two  pounds 
of  powder-sugar,  and  then  boil  the  whole  to 
grand  perle,  when  about  half  cold,  put  in 
a  few  drops  of  spirit  of  lemon. 

LEMON  SWEETMEATS.  Take  a 
pound  of  marchpane  paste,  and  mix  it  with 
as  many  yolks  of  eggs  as  will  enable  you  to 
spread  the  paste  with  a  knife ;  add  to  it  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  grated  lemon-peel  to 
impart  the  flavor  ref|uired.  The  whole 
being  well  mixed,  cut  some  sheets  of  wafer 
paper  into  such  figures  as  your  fancy  may 
dictate,  and  spread  the  paste  over  them, 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness; 
place  them  on  paper,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven.  If  you  wish  to  glaze  your 
sweetmeats,  lioil  some  sugar  with  orange- 
flower  water  to  la  plume,  and  wlien  they 
are  taken  out  of  the  oven,  wash  them  over 
with  the  sirup,  which  dries  almost  immedi- 
ately. 

LEMONS,  SIRUP  OF.  Squeeze  as 
many  lemons  as  will  yield  aliout  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  juice,  taking  particular 
care  that  the  peel  of  every  lemon  is  perfectly 
sound,  and  that  they  are  none  of  them  in  the 
least  degree  bitter.  Set  your  juice  in  the 
cellar  for  four  days,  and  then  filter  it  through 
blotting-paper.  Break  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  double-refined  sugar  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  square  ;  put  them  into  a  gallon  matrass. 


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pour  the  lemon-juice  over  it,  close  the  mat- 
rass with  paper,  and  place  it  in  a  bain  ma- 
rie until  the  sugar  is  entirely  dissolved ;  then 
extinguish  your  fire,  and  let  the  matrass  cool 
gradually ;  wiien  cold,  add  two  spoonfuls  of 
spirit  of  lemons,  then  bottle  it,  keep  it  well 
corked. 

LEMON  WAFERS.  Squeeze  the  juice 
of  six  lemons  into  a  basin ;  pound  and  sift 
some  double- refined  sugar,  and  mix  it  with 
the  lemon-juice ;  put  the  white  of  one  egg 
with  it,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together 
with  a  wooden  s|x>on,  to  make  it  of  a  good 
consistence  ;  take  some  sheets  of  wafer-pa- 
per, and  put  one  sheet  of  it  on  a  pewter 
sheet  or  tin  plate;  put  on  it  a  spoonful  of 
the  preparation,  and  spread  it  all  over  tiie 
paper  with  a  knife  ;  cut  it  into  twelve  pieces, 
and  put  them  across  a  stick  in  a  hot  stove, 
with  that  side  the  paste  is  on  uppermost, 
and  you  will  find  they  will  curl ;  when  they 
are  half  curled,  take  diem  off  very  carefully 
and  put  them  up,  endways,  in  a  sieve,  that 
they  may  stand  up  ;  let  them  be  in  the  hut 
Btove  one  day,  and  you  will  find  they  will  be 
all  curled,  and  then  they  are  done. 

LIQUORICE  PASTE.  Scrape  and 
bruise  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  liquorice-root, 
and  boil  it  in  a  little  water  till  it  is  much 
reduced ;  let  it  stand  to  settle,  and  pour  it 
clear  off,  and  dissolve  in  it  half  an  ounce 
of  gum-dragon  :  when  thoroughly  dissolved, 
sift  it  in  a  linen  bag,  and  mix  sugar  with  it 
till  it  is  brought  to  the  consistence  (»f  a  paste; 
then  cut  it  into  what  dowel's  or  designs  you 
think  proper. 


M. 


MACAROONS,  SPICED.  Take  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  two  pounds  of 
sifted  sugar;  make  your  paste  as  usual,  to 
which  add  a  spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon, 
six  or  eight  cloves,  also  pounded,  some  pre- 
served lemon  and  orange-peel  (of  each  a 
gpoonfiil,)  chopped  small,  and  the  grated 
rind  of  two  lemons;  mix  them  all  together 
in  the  mortar,  and  then  lay  your  macaroons 
as  usual,  and  bake  them  with  equal  care. 

MACEDOINE  OF  FRUIT.  The 
macedoine  is  an  ornamental  dish,  composed 
of  transparent  jelly,  with  various  fruits  en- 
closed in  it;  for  this  purpose  it  should  be 
done  as  follows:  Have  a  dome-shaped  mould 
six  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  four 
in  height,  the  sides  fluted ;  the  smaller  mould 
must  be  of  a  similar  form,  but  only  four  inch- 
es and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  two  and  three- 
quarters  high;  to  this  latter  have  four  han- 
dles, bent  at  the  end,  to  hang  it  exactly  in 


the  centre  of  the  larger  mould.  Prepare  a 
strawl)erry  transparent  jelly,  |)lace  the  larger 
mould  as  straight  as  possible  in  jwunded  ice, 
hang  the  small  one  in  it,  and  pour  the  jelly 
into  the  former;  whilst  it  is  congealing, 
pick  alwut  twenty  fine  white  strawberries, 
the  same  number  of  very  red  ones,  the  san>e 
of  while  raspberries,  a  dozen  bunches  of  red, 
and  tlie  same  of  white  currants;  wash  all 
these  well,  but  tou(;h  them  as  little  as  possi- 
ble, that  tiiey  may  not  lose  their  freshness; 
when  the  jelly  is  perfectly  set,  pour  some 
hot  water  into  the  small  mould  which  will 
enable  you  to  remove  it  with  ease ;  raise  it 
with  great  care,  so  tliat  the  space  may  1^ 
found  without  the  slightest  flaw;  then  place 
on  the  jelly  (in  the  centre  of  this  space)  two 
bunches  of  white  currants,  surroimd  these 
with  a  ring  of  white  slrawl)erries,  and  the 
latter  with  a  crown  or  ring  of  white  rasp- 
berries; pour  over  very  carefully  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  the  jelly,  and  when  that  Ts 
congealed,  proceed  in  the  s^ame  way  with 
the  red  cmranls,  strawberries,  and  raspber- 
ries, then  the  jelly,  and  so  on  alternately, 
until  all  the  fruit  is  used  ;  fill  the  mould  with 
jelly;  as  soon  as  the  whole  is  congealed, dip 
your  mould  into  a  large  saucepan  of  hot 
water,  and  tlien  turn  it  into  a  dish  instantly. 
The  macedoine  may  be  garnished  in  this 
manner  with  any  kind  of  fruit  you  think 
proper.  It  may  also  be  filled  with  two  jel- 
lies as  follows:  white  lemon  jelly  in  the 
large  mould,  and  finished  with  the  same 
jelly,  tinged  with  either  rose-color  or  yellow; 
indeed  tlie  moulds  may  be  varied  in  any  way 
your  fancy  may  dictate. 

MALLOWS,  SIRUP  OF.  Take  half 
a  pound  of  mallows  root,  and  having  scrap- 
ed and  washed  it  well,  cut  it  into  small 
pieces,  which  set  on  the  fire  with  three  pints 
of  water;  when  su<5ciently  boiled,  the  wa- 
ter will  be  glutinous,  strain  off  the  decoction, 
and  pour  into  it  four  pounds  of  sugar;  clari- 
fy it  in  the  same  manner  as  capillaire;  boil 
it  to  lisse,  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  and 
when  cold,  bottle  it. 

MARASCHINO.  Take  sixteen  poimr's 
of  fine  sharp  cherries,  stone  and  take  off 
the  stalks;  put  them  into  five  quarts  of 
brandy  to  infiise,  covered  close  for  three 
days,  then  distil  the  infusion;  distil  also  a 
pound  of  cherry -leaves  in  six  quarts  of  filter- 
ed liver  water,  from  which  you  will  obtain 
about  a  gallon;  dissolve  in  this  four  pounds 
and  a  half  of  fine  sugar;  add  it  to  the  li- 
queur, with  two  pints  and  a  half  of  kirschen- 
wasser,  an  ounce  and  four  drachms  of  spirits 
of  rose,  the  same  of  orange-flowers,  and 
three  drachms  of  spirits  of  jessamine;  mix 
them  altogether,  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag, 
and  bottle  it;  cork  them  well. 


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MARASCHINO,    CONSERVE    OF. 

Pound  and  sift  some  of  the  best  lump  sugar, 
mix  it  in  a  china  basin  with  spirit  of  maras- 
chino, until  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  pastil 
paste;  then  put  it  info  a  skillet  over  the  fire, 
and  heat  it  gently,  stirring  it  constantly  (but 
without  letting  it  boil,)  till  very  liquid,  when 
it  may  be  poured  into  funnel-sliaped  tin 
moulds;  put  these  moulds  on  iron  plates, 
and  di7  the  conserve  in  a  stove. 

MARASCHINO  ICE  CREAM.  Take 
two  quarts  of  cream,  twelve  eggs,  a  pound 
of  double-refined  sugar,  and  three  glasses 
of  true  maraschino ;  put  the  cream  on  to 
l)oil,  and  in  the  meantime  whisk  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  firm  snow,  then  pour  in 
eight  yolks,  and  the  sugar  pounded  and 
sifted,  stir  them  together  lightly,  and  then 
add  by  degress  the  boiling  cream,  whipping 
continually;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  do  not 
cease  whipping  until  it  has  boiled  up  three 
or  four  times ;  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into 
a  basin,  stirring  a  little  to  enable  it  to  run 
more  freely ;  when  cold  put  it  into  the  sor- 
betiere  with  the  maraschino;  cover  it  in- 
stantly, and  ice  it  as  usual. 

MARCHPANE.  Take  four  pounds  of 
sweet  almonds,  throw  them  into  boiling 
water,  let  them  lay  till  the  skin  loosens, 
then  put  them  into  cold  water,  after  a  few 
minutes  Wanch  and  throw  them  again  into 
cold  water  to  wash  them  thoroughly.  When 
dry,  pound  them  (a  handful  at  a  time)  to  a 
very  fine  paste,  moistening  each  handful 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  water;  the  whole 
quantity  of  almonds  being  pounded,  put  the 
paste  into  a  large  preserving  pan,  with  four 
pounds  of  the  best  lump  sugar  finely  pound- 
ed and  sifted ;  set  the  pan  on  a  coal  fire, 
stir  and  work  them  up  together  with  a 
large  wooden  spatula,  rather  sharp  at  the 
bottom :  be  very  careful  that  none  of  the 
paste  adheres  to  the  pan ;  the  consequence 
of  such  neglect  would  be,  that  the  march- 
pane would  be  spotted  with  yellow,  and 
would  smell  unpleasantly.  Whilst  working 
it  up,  the  paste,  which  when  put  in  was 
tolerably  firm,  will  become  rather  liquid, 
and  a  gieat  deal  of  vapor  may  be  observed ; 
the  first  is  caused  by  the  sugar  dissolved  by 
the  heat  and  moisture,  the  second  by  the 
evaporation  of  the  water.  Continue  to  stir 
and  work  it  up  in  this  manner  without 
ceasing  for  two  hours,  and  if  at  the  end  of 
that  time,  you  can  touch  the  paste  without 
its  adhering  to  your  fingers,  it  is  sufliiciently 
dried;  in  which  case  remove  it  all  to  one 
side  of  the  pan,  clean  the  bottom  and  side 
of  the  other,  sprinkle  it  well  with  flour,  then 
put  the  paste  to  (hat  part,  clean  and  sprin- 
kle that  side  also;  then  take  the  pan  by 
both  ears  and  move  It  round  and  round,  so 


that  the  paste  may  all  unite  together;  as 
soon  as  it  has  done  so,  put  it  into  a  sheet  of 
paper,  or,  if  you  want  to  use  it  immediate- 
ly, on  a  well  floured  table.  This  paste,  if 
the  almonds  be  well  pounded  and  then  thor- 
ougWy  dried,  will  keep  good  for  six  months; 
if  these  two  precautions  are  not  properly 
attem^d  to,  it  will  become  sour  in  ten  days. 

MARIGOLDS,  CONSERVE  OF.  Take 
four  ounces  of  marigold-flowers,  conserve  of 
hyacinth  and  hermes,  of  each  four  drachms, 
the  powder  of  pearl  two  ounces,  and  as 
much  sirup  of  citron  as  will  make  them  into 
a  conserve,  mixing  and  bruising  them  to- 
gether with  refined  sugar. 

MARJORAM  CONSERVE.  Take 
the  tops  and  tenderest  part  of  sweet  marjo- 
ram, bruise  it  well  in  a  wooden  mortar  or 
bowl ;  take  double  its  weight  of  fine  sugar, 
boil  it  with  marjoram-water  till  it  is  as 
thick  as  sirup,  then  put  in  your  beaten  mar- 
joram. 

MARSEILLES,  OR  GINGER.  Take 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  double-refined  sugar,, 
and  boil  it  to  fort  souffle,  add  to  it  ao 
ounce  of  ginger  in  powder,  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  and  with  a  round  slick  (like 
a  plain  round  rule)  stir  the  sugar,  inclining 
the  stick  towards  the  sides  of  the  pan,  then 
with  a  spoon  take  the  sugar  that  sticks  to 
the  edges  and  put  it  amongst  the  liquid,  then 
work  it  up  again  with  the  stick,  remove  the 
solid  sugar  as  before,  and  repeat  this  opera- 
tion four  times,  when  it  will  have  l)ecome  tole- 
rably thick  and  firm ;  pour  it  into  paper  cases,^ 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  with  a  fork 
trace  on  its  surface,  whilst  warm,  lozenges 
of  what  size  you  please;  afterwards,  with 
the  point  of  a  knife,  mark  some  of  these 
deeper  than  the  others;  when  quite  cold, 
take  them  out  of  the  papers,  and  separate 
them,  where  the  lines  are  deepest.  The 
Marseilles,  if  preserved  in  a  warm  or  dry 
place,  will  keep  good  for  a  long  time. 

MARSEILLES  SPICED.  Take  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  fine  sugar,  boil  it  to 
casse;  take  a  quarter  of  preserved  orange- 
peel,  the  same  of  candied  lemon-peel,  (or, 
if  you  like  it  better,  two  ounces  of  blanched 
))istachio  nuts),  cut  them  into  dice,  and  put 
the»n  with  half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  the  same 
of  cinnamon  (both  pounded)  into  the  sugar, 
stir  them  in  gently,  continue  to  boil  your 
sirup  to  forte  plume;  then  beat  it  up,  pour 
it  into  cases,  and  finish  as  the  Marseilles, 

MELONS,  TO  PRESERVE  LIKE 
GINGER.  Half  a  pound  of  ginger  to  one 
pound  of  melon;  scrape  the  ginger,  and 
save  the  scraping?;  |)our  a  quart  of  boiling 


MIN 


286 


MYR 


water  on  the  ginger,  let  it  i>tand  two  days: 
scald  tiie  melon  (with  the  scrapings  of  the 
ginger  in  tlie  water),  taking  care  not  to 
make  it  too  soft:  cut  it  into  small  pieces 
resemhiing  ginger;  then  pre|)are  a  sirup, 
lialf  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pint  of  water ; 
boil  the  ginger  in  it;  when  rold,  put  in  the 
melon,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  for  tt^hort 
time,  but  not  to  boil ;  let  the  sirup,  with 
the  ginger,  be  boiled  every  day  for  a  fort- 
night, but  not  poured  upon  the  melon  till 
nearly  cold;  tlieo  boil  a  rich  sirup  tu  keep 
it  in. 

N.  B.  Carrot  is  equally  good  with  melon. 

MERINGUES.  (1)  Whisk  the  whites  of 
nine  eggs  to  a  solid  froth;  tlien  add  the  rind 
of  six  lemons,  grated  extremely  fine,  and  a 
spoonful  of  sifted  sugar;  after  which,  lay  a 
fihect  of  wet  |)aper  on  a  tin,  and  with  a 
spoon  drop  the  mixture  in  little  kim()s, 
seprately  upon  it,  sift  sugar  over,  and  put 
them  to  Iwke  in  a  moderately  heated  oven, 
taking  care  that  they  are  done  of  a  nice 
color.  Then  put  ra8pl)erry,  apricot,  or  any 
other  kind  of  jam  l)etween  two  of  these  bot- 
toms, add  them  together,  and  lay  tbem  in 
a  warm  place,  or  Ixjfore  the  fire  to  di^. 

MERINGUES.  (2)  Take  the  whites 
of  twelve  eggs,  six  ounces  of  the  best  lump 
sugar,  |)ounded  and  sifted,  and  half  a  pound 
of  pista(-hios;  blanch  and  beat  the  latter  in 
a  mortar,  with  a  little  white  of  egg,  to  a 
very  fine  jwste.  Whisk  the  white**  of  eggs 
to  a  soow,  then  add  the  sugar,  and  pista- 
chio paste,  mix  tljem  well,  but  very  lightly, 
and  when  they  are  thoroughly  incor|)orated, 
put  some  sheets  of  paper  on  tin  plates,  lay 
your  pre|i:n-.uion  on  the  pa[)er,  with  a  spoon, 
lay  the  meringues,  at  least  an  inch  apart; 
sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over  them,  and  put 
them  into  a  moderate  oven  or  stove  ;  wljen 
done,  detach  them  gently  from  the  pa|)er 
with  a  knife,  and  place  them  on  a  sieve  in 
a  dry  place.  Just  Iwfore  they  are  sent  to 
table,  fill  each  with  a  littk  whip|x;d  cream, 
to  which  add  a  small  quantity  of  either 
orange-fiowcr,  rose,  or  vanilla  water. 

MILK  PUNCH.  Pare  six  oranges,  and 
six  lemons,  as  thin  as  you  possibly  can, 
grate  tliem  after  with  sugar  to  obtain  the 
flavor.  Steep  the  peels  in  a  bottle  of  rum 
or  brandy,  stopped  doae.  for  four  and  twenty 
hours.  Squeeze  the  fruit  on  two  pounds  of 
sugar,  add  four  quarts  of  water  to  it,  and 
one  (juart  of  new  milk,  boiling  hot;  stir  the 
rum  mlo  the  above,  and  run  it  through  a 
jellv-bag  until  it  is  quite  clear:  bottle  and 
cork  it  close  immediately. 

MINT,  DISTILLED  LIQUEUR  OF. 
Take  two  handfuls  of  fresli  galliered  garden 


(  mint,  and  infuse  it  for  some  days  in  a  gallon 

I  and  a  half  of  brandy,  and  a  quart  of  water; 

j  then    distil    ii   as    usual.       Di8st)lve    three 

|)ounds  and  a  half  of  sugar  in  seven  pints  of 

water,  mix  the  sirup  with  the  liqueur,  and 

run  tlie  whole  tiirough  a  jelly  bag. 

MINT  WATER.  Take  four  pmmds  of 
dried  mint,  two  gallons  and  a  half  of  proof 
spirits,  and  three  gallons  of  water;  distil 
them,  and  sweeten  the  water  with  a  (X}und 
and  u  half  of  sugar. 

MIRLITONS.  Put  into  a  pan  two 
yolks,  and  two  whole  eggs,  four  ounces  of 
|)owder-sugar,  three  ounces  of  sweet  maca- 
roons crushed,  half  an  ounce  of  crisped 
oK^nge-flowers  in  powder,  and  a  grain  of 
sjilt;  stir  these  together  a  minute,  then  add 
two  ounces  of  melted  butter;  whip  the  two 
whites  very  firm,  and  put  them  also  to  the 
preparation.  Line  thirty  tartlet  moulds  with 
puft'-paste,  into  each  of  which  pour  an  equal 
quantity  of  the  above;  cover  liiem  with 
sifted  sugar,  and  when  ihat  is  dissolved, 
strew  over  a  little  sugar,  a  la  grele;  and 
put  them  into  a  moderate  oven  :  serve  either 
hot  or  cold. 

MULBERRIES,  SIRUP  OF.      Take 

as  many  mulberries  as  will  yield  three  pints 
of  juice,  which  put  into  a  preserving  pan 
with  three  pints  of  water;  Iwil  until  this 
quantity  is  reduced  to  one  pint;  then  lay  the 
fruit  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  Clarify  three 
|x>unds  of  sugar,  boil  it  to  bouille;  tlien  add 
the  mull)erry-juice;  give  them  one  boil,  and 
skim  lliem.  Pour  the  sirup  into  a  pan,  and 
let  it  stand ;   when  cold,  bottle  it. 

MUSK,  TO  PREPARE  FOR  LI- 
QUEURS. Take  two  grains  of  musk  and 
a  quarter  of  a  poimd  of  sugar,  pound  them 
in  a  mortar  and  mix  them  well;  keep  it  in 
a  closely  stopped  bottle.  The  (luantity  re- 
quired of  this  is  one  pinch  to  four  or  five 
quarts  of  liqueur.  Anil)ergris  is  pre|iared 
in  a  similar  manner,  but  being  less  |X)werful 
than  the  musk,  four  grains  is  the  proportion 
to  a  quarter  of  a  [K>und  of  sugar. 

MYRTLE,  OIL  OF.  Put  two  ounces 
of  |)earh  leave.*,  and  the  half  of  a  nutmeg, 
iM'uised,  into  six  quarts  of  brandy;  distil 
from  this  in  a  bain  marie  alembic  your  li- 
queur, in  which,  infuse  half  a  |x>und  of  myr- 
tle flowei-s  for  four  days.  Dissolve  five 
pounds  of  sugar  in  three  (juarts  of  pure  river 
water;  the  moment  it  Ix'gins  to  l)oil,  take  it 
from  tlie  fire,  and  let  it  cool;  take  the  myr- 
tle flowers  from  the  liqueur,  and  put  in  the 
sugar;  mix  them  well,  color  it  witli  tincture 
of  saflfron,  strain  and  bottle  it. 


NUT 


287 


ORA 


N. 


NONPAREIL.  Poppy  s*^?  sugared  in 
the  manner  directed  under  tJ)e  articles  Su- 
gared Seedt,  are  calted  Nonpareils; 
tbev  are  tingfed  of  different  colorn,  by  the  in- 
troduction of  the  various  coloring  materials 
into  the  sugar  with  which  they  are  cor- 
ered. 

KOUGAT.  Blarjch  and  wash  a  pound 
of  Rweet  almonds,  and  having  drained  diem 
well,  cut  each  into  five  slips,  which  place  in 
a  gentle  oven  to  dry;  let  them  be  all  equally 
cobred  of  a  clear  yellow;  in  the  meantime, 
put  tliree-<^narler«  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar 
into  a  pfesening  pan,  set  it  on  a  stove, 
stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  com- 
pletely dissolved  ;  then  take  tlie  almonds  out 
of  llie  oven,  and  whilst  hot  throw  them  into 
the  liquid  sugar;  mix  them  together  well. 
Have  ready  a  mould  well  oiled,  of  any  shape 
you  tliink  jiroper,  in  the  interior  of^  which 
place  the  slips  of  almonds,  by  means  of  lem- 
on-juice, wlien  the  whfjle  is  covered,  remove 
ti»e  mould  carefully,  and  serve  ll»e  Nougat. 

NOYAU,  ENGLISH.  Two  gallons  of 
gin,  two  pounds  of  bitter  almonds,  one  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  b*jih  beaten  to  a  fine  paste ; 
six  pmmds  of  limip  Fugar,  prjunded  (some  of 
it  with  the  alnjonds.)  Let  theiie  stand  ten 
days  in  the  gin,  then  filter  it  through  blotting 
paper,  and  bottle  it. 

NUT  BONBONS.  Boil  a  poand  of 
Spanii^h  nuts ;  when  they  are  well  boiled, 
rub  off  their  skin  with  a  napkin,  if  some 
stick  too  hard,_pare  it  off  with  a  knife; 
grate  your  nuts  very  fine  on  a  sheet  of  pa- 
per ;  then  take  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
to  a  pf>und  of  nuts,  put  it  in  a  pan  over  a 
slow  fire;  when  your  sugar  is  all  niehed 
(you  must  stir  it  constantly  with  a  wooden 
B|K»on)  fjut  y»ur  nuts  in,  and  work  them  well 
till  all  is  well  mixed,  and  pour  it  upon  a  tin 
plate;  tlien  spread  it  with  a  rolling  pin,  this 
must  be  done  very  quickly,  as  it  co«il8  very 
fast;  when  it  is  cold,  cut  it  into  what  form 
you  please  ;  you  must  take  care  tlie  sugar  is 
not  too  much  melted,  for  it  is  very  apt  to 
soften  M  hen  the  nuts  are  added  to  it. 

NUTS  PRA  LINED.  Take  a  pound 
of  Sfjanish  nuts,  fake  them  out  of  their 
stielle,  and  put  them  into  a  pan,  with  a 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  water;  let 
them  boil  till  lliej-  begin  to  sparkle;  then 
take  them  off  the  fire,  and  stir  them  weM 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  till  you  perceive  the 
sugar  tunw  giavdty;  then  set  them  again 


over  a  slow  fire,  to  dbaolre  the  sugar;  keep 
stirring,  tliat  the  flogar  may  stick  to  the  nuts, 
and  when  you  see  them  turn  reddish,  and 
are  well  covered  with  sugar,  take  them  off, 
pom-  them  into  a  sieve,  cover  tliem  with  a 
clean  cloth,  and  put  them  into  a  stove;  thb 
will  preserve  their  gloss. 

NUTMEGS  TO  CANDY.  Take  a 
potmd  and  a  half  of  double  refined  sugar, 
iialf  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  damabk  rose-wa- 
ter, and  a  very  little  gum  arabic ;  hiW  these 
to  a  candy  height ;  let  your  nutnw'g^  be  first 
soaked  in  water;  then  put  tliem  into  an 
earthen  pan,  pour  your  candy  to  them,  keep 
them  very  ckise  covered,  set  them  in  a  warm 
pbce  for  about  three  weeks,  and  they  will 
be  of  a  rock  candy. 


O. 


OIL  OF  JUPITER.  Take  three  quarts 
of  spirits  of  wine,  flavored  with  essential  oil 
of  knnon,  the  same  quantity  flavored  with 
spirit  of  cedrat ;  make  a  sirup  with  seven 
pounds  of  sugar,  a  gallon  of  wafer,  and  two 
Iwttles  of  Sculjac ;  mix  the  whole  together, 
and  liy  stirring,  it  will  become  thick ;  to 
clarify  it,  take  the  whites  of  two  ^gs  in 
about  a  pint  of  tlie  Itquear,  and  afterwards 
put  it  to  the  whole ;  stir  it ;  tlien  put  it  into 
a  still  in  tlie  bain  marie  moderately  lieated ; 
let  it  remain  for  twelve  hours;  filter  tlie  pro- 
duce of  your  distillation,  and  bottle  it. 

OIL  OF  VENUS.  Reduce  the  foHow- 
ing  articles  to  an  impalpable  powder: — an 
ounce  of  hkirret  seeds,  an  ounre  of  caraway 
seeds,  an  ounce  of  anise  seeds,  a  drachm 
and  a  half  of  mace,  and  the  rind  of  an  or- 
ange ;  infuse  these  ibr  five  da}-g  in  a  gallon 
of  brandy,  then  distil  from  it  in  a  bain  ma- 
rie, two  quarts  of  liqueur;  dissolve  over 
the  fire  four  pounds  of  sugar  in  two  quarts 
of  pure  water;  when  cold,  mix  it  with  the 
distilled  liqueur,  and  color  it  of  a  clear  ycl- 
k)W,  with  a  little  tincture  of  safiron ;  uter 
and  boule  it ;  seal  the  corks. 

ORANGES  IN  BRANDY.  Choose 
tlie  oranges  very  round  and  smooth,  pare, 
prick  th«n  in  the  middle,  and  put  tliem  into 
cold  water;  then  blanch  them  in  boiling 
water;  when  they  are  tender,  throw  them 
again  into  cokl  water ;  in  a  short  time  give 
them  seven  or  eiglit  boils  in  fugar,  a  la  pe- 
tite nappe,  skim,  and  let  them  stand  tJB 
next  day,  when  the  same  process  must  be 
gotie  througti;  skim  them  again,  then  pMt 
them  into  bottles,  poor  over  ibem  eqoal 
quantities  of  sirup  and  water ;  take  care  to 
oork  them  wdL 


ORA 


288 


ORA 


ORANGE,  COMPOTE.  Cut  them 
in  small  pieces,  and  boil  them  in  wa- 
ter until  they  are  tender,  then  change  them 
into  cold  water;  next  make  a  sirup  with 
one  glass  of  water  and  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
and  put  in  the  fruit;  let  it  simmer  gently 
over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour ;  serve  cold. 

ORANGE,  CROQUE  EN  BOTI- 
CHES  OF.  Pare  a  dozen  fine  oranges, 
and  divide  each  into  twelve  pieces,  all  of 
the  same  size ;  scrape  off  every  particle  of 
the  white,  without  breaking  the  thin  skin 
which  contains  the  juice ;  when  all  are  done, 
dip  each  piece  into  some  sugar  boiled  to 
casse  (and  lightly  colored,)  and  place  them 
in  a  plain  mould  of  six  inches  diameter,  and 
five  in  height ;  the  first  row  inclined  one  way, 
the  second  the  reverse  way,  and  so  on ;  lay 
them  at  the  bottom  in  a  star.  As  soon  as 
the  mould  is  full,  turn  it  Out,  and  serve  it 
with  all  possible  expedition,  as  the  moistuie 
of  the  fiuit  dissolves  the  sugar  so  rapidly, 
that  the  croque  en  bouche  is  liable  to  ^11 
to  pieces. 

ORANGE  CAKES.  Divide  the  or- 
anges in  half,  lake  out  the  seeds,  and  put 
the  pulp  and  juice  into  a  basin;  boil  the 
rinds  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  closely  cover- 
ed; when  very  tender  take  them  out,  and 
dry  them  upon  a  cloth ;  allow  to  a  pound  of 
orange  rinds,  two  of  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
pound  the  rinds  in  a  mortar ;  add  by  degrees 
tlie  sugar,  and  then  the  juice  and  pulp;  mix 
it  thoroughly  till  thick  and  yellow ;  drop  it 
upon  tins  in  small  cakes,  and  dry  them  un- 
der garden  glasses,  or  in  a  cool  oven.  If 
it  be  too  thick  to  drop,  let  it  stand  a  night. 

ORANGE  SHERBET.  Dissolve  a 
pound  and  half  of  sugar  in  a  quail  of  very 
pure  water;  take  nine  fine  oranges  and  two 
lemons;  wipe  them  well  with  a  napkin,  and 
having  grated  the  most  flagrant  rinds,  squeeze 
on  them  the  juice  of  these  fruits;  sweeten 
this  juice  with  the  above  sirup,  run  the  whole 
through  a  close  hair  sieve,  and  finish  in 
die  usual  way.     (See  Sherbet.) 

ORANGE  SHRUB.  Put  ten  pounds 
of  crushed  su^ar  to  two  gallons  of  water, 
and  boil  it  untd  the  sugar  be  dissolved ;  skim 
it  well,  and  put  it  into  a  tulj;  when  quite 
cold,  pour  it  into  a  barrel ;  add  three  quarts 
of  Jamaica  rum,  and  six  quarts  of  orange- 
juice  (take  care  there  are  no  pips.)  Beat 
up  the  white  of  an  egg,  mix  it  with  the 
shrub,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  week ;  then 
draw  it  off  and  bottle  it. 

ORANGE  SUGAR.  Rasp  on  a  piece 
of  sugar  the  rinds  of  the  l)e8t  oranges,  but 
80  lightly  that  not  a  particle  of  the  white  is 


mixed  with  it;  scrape  oflT the  surface  of  the 
sugar  as  it  becomes  colored,  and  continue 
this  operation  until  you  have  as  much  sugar 
as  you  require ;  then  lay  it  in  a  stove,  or  at 
the  mouth  of  the  oven  to  dry ;  when  it  is 
perfectly  so,  pass  it  through  a  very  fine 
sieve.  Lemons  and  cedrats  may  be  grated, 
and  the  sugar  dried  in  tlie  same  manner. 

9RANGES,  GREEN.  Scrape  out  the 
insides  of  the  oranges  quite  clean,  then  let 
them  lie  for  three  days  in  cold  vvater,  chang- 
ing the  water  daily,  then  boil  them  very 
slowly  till  the  water  is  bitter;  then  put 
them  into  other  boiling  water,  set  them  by; 
repeating  this  daily  till  all  the  bitterness  is 
extracted:  make  a  rich  sirup  of  the  last 
vvater  they  are  boiled  in,  with  Lisbon  sugar; 
when  cold,  put  them  in ;  the  next  day  boil 
tliem  in  the  sirup;  repeat  this  till  they  are 
green  and  tender;  cover  with  brandy-paper. 

ORANGE,  WATER  ICE.  Take  off 
the  rind  of  two  Seville  oranges,  very  fine 
and  thin ;  squeeze  the  juice  into  a  basin 
with  one  lemon ;  add  half  a  pint  of  sirup, 
and  half  a  pint  of  water ;  pass  tliem  tlirough 
a  sieve,  and  freeze  them  rich. 

ORANGE-FLOWER  CONSERVE. 
Boil  half  a  pound  of  clarified  sugar  to  grande 
plume,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  pour  into 
it  a  dessert  spoonful  of  orange-flower  water ; 
stir  them  together  well,  set  the  mixture  on 
the  fire,  and  when  warm,  pour  it  into  shal- 
low paper-cases;  let  it  cool,  and  then  cut  it 
into  cakes  of  any  form  you  please. 

9RANGE-FLOWER  PASTILS.  Pul- 
verise a  good  pinch  of  dried  orange-flowers; 
pound  them  with  gum-dragon,  previously 
dissolved  in  one  glass  of  plain,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  orange-flower  water;  add 
a  sufficient  proportion  of  powder-sugar,  to 
make  the  paste  of  the  requisite  consistence, 
which  form  according  to  your  taste  into 
cones,  lozenges,  &c. 

ORANGE-FLOWER  PRALINES. 
Take  a  pound  of  very  fresh  white  orange- 
flowers,  pick,  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water;  clarify,  and  boil  two  pounds  of  sugar 
to  souffle,  then  put  in  the  flowers;  stir 
them  with  a  spatula,  until  your  sugai*  re- 
gains the  degree  of  souffle;  take  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  and  continue  stirring  till  the 
sugar  is  separated  from  the  flowers,  and  In- 
comes a  powder;  set  it  in  a  stove  to  dry, 
then  set  the  whole  on  a  sieve,  that  the  sugai" 
may  run  through  and  leave  the  flowers, 
which  put  into  bottles.  If  preserved  in  a 
dry  place  tliey  will  keep  for  twelve  months. 

ORANGE-FLOWERS  SIRUP.    Clar- 


ORG 


289 


ORG 


ify  and  boil  four  pounds  of  sugar  to  perle, 
then  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
orange-flowers  picked,  and  boil  tliem  once ; 
tlien  take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  let  it 
fitand  for  two  hours,  after  which,  replace  it 
on  the  fire ;  when  it  has  had  about  a  dozen 
boilings,  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  anoth- 
er saucepan,  boil  the  sirup  to  lisse,  and 
put  it  aside;  when  quite  cold,  bottle  it. 
The  flowers  may  be  used  as  follows:  put 
tliem  into  powder-sugar,  with  which  rub 
them  well  with  your  hands,  till  quite  dry, 
then  sift  and  put  them  in  a  stove. 

ORANGE-FLOWER  WATER.     Put 

into  a  si  ill  ten  pounds  of  fresh  gathered  or- 
ange-flowers, and  six  quarts  of  pure  river 
water ;  take  particular  care  to  close  up  all 
the  apertures  of  the  still  perfectly,  and  set  it 
on  a  moderate  fire,  that  the  eiiullition  may 
not  lie  too  strong ;  be  particular  in  cooling 
it  fi-equenlly,  or,  at  least,  whenever  tlie  wa- 
ter in  the  boiler  becomes  too  warm,  change 
it,  and  put  in  fi-esh ;  much  depends  on  the 
attention  paid  to  this  part  of  the  operation. 
From  the  above  quantity,  three  quarts  of 
orange-flower  water  may  be  drawn. 

ORANGE-FLOWE.R  DOUBLE 
Water.  Di-aw  four  quarts  of  orange- 
flower  water  from  six  quarts  distilled  as 
above;  put  to  this  water  the  same  quantity 
of  fresli  flowers,  distil  it  in  the  same  manner, 
and  it  will  yield  five  pints. 

ORANGE  PEEL  TO  CANDY.  Take 
some  orange  peel,  and  let  it  soak  in  seve- 
ral waters  till  it  has  lost  its  bitterness,  tJien 
boil  it  in  a  solution  of  double-refined  su- 
gar in  water,  till  it  becomes  tender  and 
traiisparent. 

ORANGE   PEEL  TO    PRESERVE. 

Cut  the  oranges  in  halves,  take  out  the  pulp, 
put  the  peel  in  strong  salt  and  spring  water, 
to  soak  for  three  days,  repeat  this  three 
times,  then  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  dry ; 
take  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  add  to  it  one 
quart  of  spring  water,  boil  it,  skim  it  until 
quite  clear;  let  the  peels  simmer  until  they 
are  quite  transparent ;  dry  them  before  the 
fire;  take  loaf-sugar,  with  just  sufficient 
water  to  dissolve  it;  whilst  the  sugar  is 
boiling,  put  in  the  peels,  stirring  continually 
until  all  the  sugar  is  candied  round  tliem, 
then  put  them  to  dry  either  before  the  fire 
or  in  an  oven,  and  when  perfectly  dried, 
put  them  by  for  use. 

ORGEAT.     Blanch  a  pound  of  sweet, 
and  twenty-four  bitter  almonds ;  pound  them 
to  an  exceedingly  fine  paste,  adding  water 
25 


occasionally  to  prevent  their  oiling;  mix  a 
gallon  of  water,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and 
orange-flower  water,  with  this  paste;  beat 
them  together  for  some  time;  then  strain  it 
two  or  three  times  through  a  jelly-bag,  stir- 
ring it  with  a  spatula,  and  serve  it  in  de> 
canters. 

ORGEAT  PASTE.  Pound  the  almonda 
with  a  little  orange-flower  water  to  a  fine 
paste,  and  dien  work  up  with  it  an  equal 
weight  of  powder-sugar.  This  paste  will 
keep  a  long  while,  and  by  dissolving  a  small 
portion  of  it  in  water,  and  straining  it,  or- 
geat may  be  prepared  very  quickly.  An 
ounce  of  the  paste  is  sufficient  for  half  a 
pint  of  water. 

ORGEAT  SIRUP.  Take  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  sweet,  and  half  a  pound  of  bitter 
almonds,  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  and 
leave  tliem  till  the  skins  can  be  removed 
with  ease,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water 
for  a  minute  before  you  blanch  them,  after 
which,  they  must  again  be  put  into  cold 
water;  then  pound  them,  a  few  at  a  time, 
in  a  marble  mortar,  adding  occasionally 
some  water  to  prevent  their  oiling;  when 
all  are  beaten  to  a  very  fine  paste,  dilute  this 
with  the  greater  part  of  a  quart  of  water, 
(of  which  reserve  six  ounces) ;  put  the 
paste  into  a  strong  cloth ;  squeeze  and  wring 
out  all  the  milk  from  the  almonds,  put  the 
latter  into  the  mortar,  aud  pound  them 
again,  adding  by  degrees  the  remainder  of 
the  water,  and  then  squeeze  these  also  in  a 
cloth;  pour  the  whole  of  thig  milk  into  a 
matrass,  large  enough  to  contain,  at  least, 
one-third  more  liquid,  add  to  it  two  pounds 
of  lump-sugar,  and  a  pint  of  orange-flower 
water;  cork  the  matrass  tight,  and  set  it 
on  a  bain  marie;  when  the  sugar  is  com- 
pletely dissolved,  (which  should  be  accelera- 
ted by  shaking  the  matrass  occasionally),  les- 
sen the  fire  by  degrees,  and  as  soon  as  the 
vessel  is  cjuite  cold,  put  the  sirup  into  bottles. 

If  you  should  have  no  matrass,  you  may 
make  your  sirup  in  the  following  manner: 
boil  die  above  mentioned  quantity  of  sugar 
to  forte  plume,  then  add  the  milk  of  al- 
monds, and  as  soon  as  it  has  boiled  up  twice, 
take  it  from  the  fire;  when  cold,  flavor  it 
with  a  pint  of  orange-flower  water. 

Or  this  sirup  may  be  made  in  a  still  more 
simple  way,  as  thus:  put  the  milk  of  al- 
monds into  some  pounded  sugar,  without 
being  clarified  or  boiled  previously;  when 
the  sirup  begins  to  boil,  add  about  a  coflfee- 
cupful  of  orange-flower  water,  and  after  it 
has  boiled  up  two  or  three  times,  take  it 
from  the  fire ;  let  it  get  quite  cold  before 
you  bottle  it.    Keep  it  well  corked. 


PA»  590 


PEA 


P. 


PARFAIT  AMOUR.  Take  four  very 
fine  fresh  cedrats,  pare  them  very  thin,  and 
infuse  them  with  half  an  ounce  of  fine  cinna- 
mon, and  four  ounces  of  coriander,  in  three 
gallons  of  strong  brandy,  and  a  quart  of  wa- 
ter, for  a  week  or  ten  days,  when  distil  it 
in  the  bain  marie;  this  quantity  of  brandy, 
if  good,  will  yield  two  gallons  and  half  a 
pint  of  spirit.  Dissolve  three  pounds  and  a 
half  of  sugai"  in  seven  pints  of  river  water, 
color  it  with  cochineal,  then  add  it  to  the 
spirit,  filter,  and  bottle  it. 

PASTILLES.  To  make  these  articles, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  a  small  cop|)er  stew- 
pan  that  will  hold  about  a  pint,  rather  deep 
than  wide,  with  a  pointed  lip  on  the  right 
side,  and  a  tolerably  long  handle,  also  two 

f)ieces  of  wood,  one  about  eighteen  inches 
ong,  and  four  in  diameter,  called  tlie  bois 
a  tabeller,  the  other  about  half  the  length, 
one  inch  in  diameter,  and  the  lower  end, 
pointed  so  that  it  will  exactly  fit  the  lip  of 
the  pan;  this  is  called  the  bois  a  egoutter; 
six  or  eight  tin  plates  about  the  size  of  a 
sheet  of  letter-paper. 

For  the  best  pastilles,  take  a  pound  of 
double-refined  sugar  reduced  to  an  impalpa- 
ble powder;  sift  it  through  a  tammy  on  a 
sheet  of  white  paper,  put  four  or  five  spoon- 
fuls of  this  sugar  into  your  pan,  pour  on  it  a 
little  orange-flower  water,  and  beat  it  well 
with  the  large*  stick,  until  the  preparation 
is  sufficiently  thin  to  run  from  the  stick 
without  being  clear ;  if  it  be  so,  more  sugar 
must  be  added.  Put  the  pan  over  a  chafing- 
dish  filled  with  live  coals,  and  let  it  stand 
(stirring  constantly)  till  it  boils;  then  take 
it  off"  the  chafing-dish,  add  two  more  spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  work  it  up  well,  scrape  away 
whatever  sugar  adheres  to  the  stick,  set  it 
aside,  and  take  tlie  smaller  stick  in  your 
right  hand,  hold  the  pan  in  your  left  (slant- 
ing) over  one  of  the  tin-plates ;  ihe  sugai- 
will,  by  these  means,  flow  to  the  lip,  then 
strike  the  point  of  the  stick  into  tlie  lip  of 
the  pan,  which  action  will  separate  the 
liquid,  so  that  each  time  the  stick  strikes 
the  lip  a  single  drop  of  the  preparation  will 
fall  on  the  tin ;  a  little  practice  will  be  ne- 
cessary before  this  operation  can  be  perform- 
ed neatly.  As  soon  as  all  your  sugar,  &c. 
is  used,  replenish  the  pan  and  proceed  as 
above  directed,  until  you  have  as  many 
pastilles  as  you  may  require.  When  cold 
and  hard,  remove  them  from  the  tins  with 
your  hand,  and  keep  them  in  boxes  in  a 
dry  place.  You  may,  if  you  please,  color 
the  pastilles,  taking  care  to  perfume  them 
with  a  corresponding  odour. 


PASTILLES,  COxMMON.  These  are 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  best  sort, 
the  difference  consists  in  the  materials, 
(which  are  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder 
to  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar)  and 
tlie  perfumes  are  omitted. 

PASTILLAGES.  Put  two  ounces  of 
well-washed  gum  dragon  into  an  earthen 
pan,  with  as  much  clear  hot  water  as  will 
cover  it,  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  to  keep  out 
the  dust,  and  let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours; 
then  squeeze  it  through  a  coarse  cloth  into 
a  marble  mortar,  and  add  to  it  as  much 
starch  and  sugar  (both  in  powder)  as  the 
gum  water  will  contain  ;  pound  these  ingre- 
dients well,  and  strain  them  through  a  tammy 
into  a  pan  which  keep  covered  with  a  damp 
cloth.  This  pastillage  is  used  to  form  the 
ornamental  pans  of  pastry  and  confection- 
ary, such  as  temples,  baskets,  &c.,  and  may 
be  tinged  of  the  requisite  sliades,  by  mix- 
ing with  it  any  of  die  coloring  materials. 

PEACHES  IN  A   COMPOTE.     Cut 

your  j)oaches  in  half,  l;!ke  out  the  stones, 
peel  them,  then  set  them  on  the  fire  in  a 
sugar-pan,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  thick 
clarified  sugar  to  cover  them,  and  let  them 
simmer  in  diis  gently  till  done;  then  take 
them  out  in  a  basin,  put  in  the  kernels  to 
the  sugar,  and  let  it  boil  until  tolerably  thick ; 
put  in  the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons,  and 
pour  the  sirup  over  the  peaches;  serve  them 
in  a  deep  hot  dish. 

PEARS  IN  BRANDY.  Take  some 
beurre  pears,  not  too  ripe,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water 
to  cover  them,  set  them  on  the  fire,  and  let 
them  simmer,  but  not  boil,  until  the  pears 
will  yield  to  the  pressure  of  your  finger; 
then  change  them  into  cold  water;  pare 
them  with  the  greatest  care,  so  that  not  a 
single  spot  may  remain ;  prick,  and  put  them 
again  on  the  fire  in  fresh  water  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon;  let  them  boil  very  fast.  As 
soon  as  tlie  pears  are  soft  enough  for  the 
head  of  a  pin  to  penetrate  them  easily,  take 
them  out  carefully  with  a  skimmer,  and  lay 
them  in  cold  water.  In  the  meantime,  hav- 
ing boiled  your  sugar  to  lisse,  pour  the 
boiling  sirup  on  the  pears,  (previously 
drained  from  the  water,)  and  leave  tiiem. 
The  next  day  drain  off"  the  sirup,  boil  it  to 
la  nappe,  then  put  in  the  pears,  give  them 
a  boil  also ;  proceed  in  the  same  manner  on 
the  third  day,  after  which,  drain  tl»e  fruit, 
and  put  it  into  bottles.  Boil  up  the  sirup  a 
few  more  times,  let  it  cool,  and  then  pour 
on  it  some  brandy,  (three-fourths  of  the 
quantity  of  the  sirup;)  run  the  mixture 
through  a  bag,  put  it  to  the  pears,  and  cork 
the  bottles  well. 


PIS 


291 


PLU 


PEARS  CANDIED.  Are  done  like 
apricots. 

PEARS,  COMPOTE  OF.  Take  some 
good  sized  pears,  cut  tliem  in  halves,  and 
put  them  into  boiling  water;  when  soft, 
change  them  into  cold  water,  in  which 
squeeze  a  little  lemon-juice.  Boil  some 
clarified  sugar,  drain  the  fruit  well  from  die 
water,  and  then  put  them  into  the  sinip; 
boil  together  until  the  pears  are  sufficiently 
done;  skim,  and  place  them  in  the  compo- 
tier.  A  little  Burgundy  wine  and  prepared 
cochineal  will  give  the  compote  a  red  color. 

PEAR  MARMALADE.  Take  six 
pounds  of  small  pears  and  four  pounds  of 
sugar ;  put  the  pears  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  little  water,  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  the 
fruit  is  soft,  take  them  out,  paie,  (juarter, 
and  core  them;  as  yo-i  do  this,  Uirow  each 
piece  into  cold  water,  in  another  saucepan, 
and  when  all  ere  done,  set  them  on  the  tire. 
As  soon  as  they  are  sufliciently  soft,  rub 
them  through  a  sieve,  and  having  in  the 
meantime  clarified  and  boiled  the  sugar  to 
petit  lisse,  pour  the  sirup  to  the  pulp,  set  it 
on  the  fire,  and  stir  them  together  until  the 
marmalade  is  of  tlie  proper  consistence; 
tlien  take  it  off,  put  it  into  pots,  and  when 
cold,  tie  them  down. 

PERSICA.  Cut  about  one  hundred 
peach  leaves,  put  them  into  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle,  pour  on  them  a  quart  of  the  best 
brandy,  cork  it  close ;  in  three  weeks  strain 
it  off,  and  put  to  it  an  equal  quantity  of  ca- 
pillaire.  It  is  good  in  custards,  puddings, 
and  as  a  liqueur. 

PINE  APPLE  CHIPS.  Pare  and 
trim  a  pine-apple,  divide,  and  slice  each 
half  into  pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ; 
take  half  the  weight  of  the  fruit  in  powder- 
sugar:  lay  the  slices  in  a  basin,  with  sugar 
strewed  between ;  let  it  stand  till  die  sugar 
be  dissolved,  then  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire 
to  simmer  till  the  chips  he  quite  clear,  when 
set  it  by.  The  next  day  remove  all  the 
sirup  from  the  slices,  place  them  on  glasses, 
and  dry  them  in  a  gentle  oven. 

PINE    APPLE    IN    A    COMPOTE. 

Turn  off  tlie  rind  of  a  pine,  cut  it  in  slices, 
but  not  too  thin ;  have  some  sugar  on  the 
fire  in  a  sugar-pan,  into  which  put  the  slices 
of  pine,  and  let  them  boil  gently  till  the  sirup 
is  tolerably  thick,  then  take  out  tlie  pine, 
and  lay  it  on  a  dish ;  mix  with  tlie  sugar, 
the  jaice  of  a  couple  of  lemons,  and  pour  it 
over  the  pine. 

PISTACHIO  MARCHPANE.  Put  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  pistachios  into  a  mortar, 


pound  them,  moistening  with  white  of  egg^ 
to  a  vei-y  fine  paste;  in  the  meantime  clari- 
fy the  same  quantity  of  sugar,  boil  it  to  petU 
boule;  then  take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  put 
in  the  pistachios,  stir  them  together  vvell, 
replace  die  pan  on  hot  ashes,  continually 
stirring,  till  the  paste  is  of  a  proper  consis- 
tence, tlien  pour  it  on  a  slab  well  sprinkled 
widi  sugar;  as  soon  as  it  is  cold,  cut  it  into 
whatever  forms  your  fancy  may  dictate. 

PLUMS,  IN  BRANDY.  Take  twelve 
pounds  of  fine  magnum  bonum  plums,  and 
three  pounds  of  sugar;  the  fruit  should  be 
tuined  in  color,  but  not  ripe ;  prick,  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  cold  water,  set 
them  on  the  fire;  when  the  water  boils  and 
the  plums  rise,  take  them  out  carefully  with 
a  skimmer  and  put  them  into  a  pan  of  cold 
water;  clarify  and  boil  the  sugar  to  petit 
lisse,  put  the  plums  to  it,  and  give  them  a 
boil;  the  two  succeeding  days,  drain  off 
and  boil  the  sirup,  first  alone,  and  after- 
wards with  the  fruit;  the  tliird  day  drain 
die  plums,  and  put  them  into  bottles ;  then 
boil  the  sirup  to  la  nappe,  and  when  cold, 
add  to  it  three-fourths  of  its  quantity  of  the 
best  brandy,  stir  it  well,  strain  and  pour  the 
mixture  over  the  plums.  Cork  the  bottles 
tight.  Green-gage  plums  are  done  like 
apricots.     (See  Apricots  in  Brandy.) 

PLUMS  CANDIED.  Choose  your 
fruit  of  a  nice  shape  and  good  size;  cut 
them  in  halves,  lay  them  on  a  large  shallow 
dish,  strew  powder-sugar  over,  and  put 
them  into  a  moderate  oven,  tightly  closed; 
in  half  an  hour's  time,  take  them  out,  and 
place  the  plums  one  by  one  on  glass  plates 
to  dry. 

PLUMS,  CLEAR  CAKES  OF.  Fill 
a  jar  with  the  white  pear  plums,  set  it  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  on  the  fire ;  when 
sufficiently  done,  let  the  clear  juice  run 
from  it,  and  to  every  pint  of  it,  add  an  equal 
quantity  of  sugar,  boiled  to  candy  height; 
put  the  juice  to  the  sirup,  set  it  on  the  fire, 
and  keep  stirring  it  till  the  whole  is  quite 
hot,  but  not  boiling;  tlien  pour  it  into  glass- 
es, and  dry  tlie  cakes  in  a  stove. 

PLUMS,  MARMALADE    OF.    Take 

six  pounds  of  plums,  and  four  pounds  of 
sugar;  stone,  and  put  the  fruit  into  a  cul- 
lender, beat  it  through  with  a  wooden  pestle 
into  a  preserving-pan,  which  set  on  the  fire, 
to  dry  die  pulp,  stirring  it  constantly.  In 
the  meantime,  clarify  and  boil  die  sugar  to 
petit  casse,  then  mix  it  widi  the  fruit  (still 
on  the  fire,)  stir  it  till  the  whole  is  of  the 
consistence  of  jelly,  then  take  it  off,  and 
pour  the  marmalade  into  pots. 

If  the  plums  are  not  quite  ripe,  they  must 


POM 


292 


POU 


be  boiled  once  or  twice  before  they  are 
pressed  through  the  cullender.  Some  of 
the  kernels  may  be  added,  if  approved; 
tliey  should  be  pounded  before  putting  in  the 
marmalade. 

PLUMS  PRESERVED,  DRY.  Gath- 
er tlie  plums  when  full  grown  and  just  turn- 
ing color,  pi  ick  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water,  set  them  on  the  fire  until  the 
water  is  on  the  point  of  boiling;  tlien  take 
tliem  out,  drain  and  boil  them  well  in  some 
clarified  sugar,  let  them  settle,  and  then  boil 
them  again ;  if  they  shrink  and  will  not  take 
the  sugar,  prick  them  as  they  lay  in  the  pan, 
and  then  give  them  another  boil,  skim  and 
fiet  them  by:  the  next  day,  add  some  more 
sugar,  boiled  to  souffle,  to  the  fruit,  and 
eirup,  then  do  them  together;  place  them 
in  a  stove  till  next  day,  when  drain  the 
plums  from  the  sirup,  sprinkle  a  little  pow- 
der-sugar over,  and  dry  them  in  a  stove. 

PLUMS,  PRESERVED  LIQUID. 
Gather  the  plums  green,  firm,  and  when  the 
etone  may  be  extracted  with  ease,  cut  the 
Btalks  close,  and  prick  the  fruit  in  several 
places,  especially  round  the  stalk;  then 
place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  water  over  the 
fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  is  ready  to 
boil,  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire;  in 
four-and-twenty  hours,  replace  the  plums  in 
Ihe  same  water  on  a  gentle  fire,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  verjuice  to  preserve  their  color. 
Keep  the  water  hot,  without  allowing  it  to 
boil,  for  three  hours,  stirring  it  occasional- 
ly ;  when  the  fruit  is  perfectly  green,  increase 
tlie  heat  till  the  plums  rise  to  the  surface, 
when  they  must  be  taken  out  and  thrown 
>  into  cold  water,  which  change  frequently  till 
the  plums  are  perfectly  cold,  then  (Train 
tliem.  Put  the  fruit  in  some  sugar  boiled  to 
la  nappe,  boil  them  up  a  few  times,  adding 
a  little  water;  skim,  and  then  pour  the 
whole  into  a  pan ;  the  next  two  days,  drain 
off  the  sirup,  and  increase  the  degi'ee  of 
boiling  each  day ;  the  third  and  fourth  days, 
boil  the  fruit  with  the  sirup,  keeping  them 
covered,  and  increasing  the  degree,  until  the 
last  time,  it  reaches  to  perle.  Put  the 
preserve  into  pots,  and  place  them  for  two 
days  in  a  stove. 

The  same  fruit  may  be  preserved  dry 
also.  The  operation  is  the  same,  but  the 
sirup  is  drained  off,  and  the  plums  laid  on 
tin  plates  before  they  are  put  into  the  stove. 

POMEGRANATE  CLEAR  CAKES. 
Pare  some  good  boiling  apples,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  as  much  water  as  will 
cover  them,  set  them  on  the  fire,  and  when 
perfectly  soft,  press  the  pulp  through  a  sieve, 
aod  then  strain  it.    Boil  tliis  jelly  with  the 


juice  of  two  or  three  pomegranates,  tiRat  of 
one  orange,  and  one  lemon,  and  the  rind  of 
each  grated;  strain  it  again,  and  to  every 
pound  of  jelly  add  a  pound  and  a  quarter 
of  fine  sugar,  boiled  till  it  cracks,  color  it 
with  cochineal;  pour  it  into  glasses  (taking 
off  the  scum  before  it  becomes  cold).  Set 
them  in  a  stove,  and  when  the  top  is  dry, 
turn  them  out,  and  put  them  to  dry  again ; 
then  cut  them  into  whatever  forms  yoo 
please,  put  them  into  the  stove  or  oven  to 
harden,  then  lay  them  on  sieves,  and  when 
thoroughly  dry,  place  them  in  boxes  with 
paper  between.  As  they  are  apt  to  become 
moist,  they  should  be  looked  at  frequently. 

POMEGRANATE  JELLY,  TRANS- 
PARENT.  Take  the  seeds  from  five 
very  fine  pomegranates,  from  which  extract 
the  juice  by  pressing  it  hard  through  a 
horse-hair  sieve;  filter  this  juice  and  mix  it 
with  some  sirup  tinged  of  a  rose  color,  with 
a  little  cochineal;  add  the  isinglass  to  this, 
and   finish   as  usual.     (See  Jelly  Fruit.) 

POMEGRANATE      SIRUP.      Take 

five  very  ripe  large  pomegranates,  extract 
the  seeds  (which  must  be  very  red);  crush, 
and  put  them  into  a  skillet,  with  half  a 
pint  of  water;  set  them  on  the  fire  till  soft, 
and  then  squeeze  the  juice  through  a  new 
coarse  cloth ;  clarify  a  pound  and  half  of 
sugar,  and  boil  it  to  souffle,  then  add  the 
juice,  boil  them  together  to  the  usual  con- 
sistence of  sirups.  It  must  not  be  bottled 
until  quite  cold.  This  number  of  pome'- 
granates  will  yield  a  quart  of  sirup. 

POUPELIN.  Put  into  a  saucepan  four 
glasses  of  water,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  die  zeste  of  a  lemon,  and  a  pinch 
of  fine  salt;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon 
as  it  begins  to  boil,  take  it  off,  and  put  in 
as  much  sifted  flour  as  will  make  a  paste 
the  consistence  of  choux,  then  replace  it 
on  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  till  it  dries; 
make  a  similar  mixture,  and  when  that 
also  is  dry,  put  both  into  a  mortar,  with 
half  a  pound  of  powder  sugar,  an  ounce  of 
orange-flowers,  and  two  eggs  at  a  time,  un- 
til five  and  twenty  or  thirty  are  used,  by 
which  time  the  paste  will  be  of  the  proper 
consistence,  then  pour  it  into  a  lightly  but- 
tered tin;  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  and 
leave  it.  In  three  hours'  time,  if  the 
poupelin  is  of  a  nice  gold  color,  take  it 
out,  cut  off  the  top,  and  with  a  spoon  re^ 
move  all  the  inside,  then  set  it  in  the 
oven  to  dry.  When  cold,  spread  all  over 
the  interior  apricot  marmalade,  on  which 
strew  sweet  macaroons  crushed,  tlien  tiun 
it  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 


RA3 


293 


ROS 


Q. 

QUINCE  CAKES.  Pare  and  core 
half  a  dozen  quinces,  boil  them  till  quite 
soft ;  then  nib  the  pulp  through  a  sieve,  and 
strain  it;  mix  this  with  half  a  pint  of  sirup 
of  quinces,  and  die  same  of  sirup  of  barljer- 
ries,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar ; 
boil  die  whole  to  casse,  and  then  pour  it 
into  small  shallow  moulds,  of  any  shape 
you  please ;  let  them  cool  a  little,  and  then 
dry  them  in  a  stove. 

QUINCE  CAKES  TRANSPARENT. 

Take  a  quart  of  sirup  of  quinces,  and  half  a 
pint  of  the  sirup  of  barljerries ;  set  them  on 
a  gentle  fire,  boi  and  skim  them  well;  then 
add  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  fine  sugar, 
keep  stirring  until  it  reacdies  candy  height; 
then  take  it  off,  and  when  nearly  cold,  lay 
it,  in  any  form  you  please,  on  tin  plates. 
Dry  diera  in  a  stove. 


R. 


RASPBERRY  CAKES.  Gather  some 
raspterries  before  they  are  quite  rijje,  pick, 
and  lay  them  in  a  stove  to  dry;  then  beat 
them  in  a  mortar.  Take  a  pound  and 
quarter  of  fine  sugar,  clarity  anil  boil  it  to 
casse;  then  weigh  half  a  pound  of  raspber- 
ries, dried  as  above;  throw  them  into  the 
sirup,  with  half  a  spoonful  of  white  of  egg, 
beaten  in  cream ;  stir  it  carefully,  give  it  a 
boil,  and  pour  it  in  moulds  or  paper  cases. 

RASPBERRIES  OF  MARCHPANE. 
Take  a  pound  of  marchpane,  the  juice  of 
four  lemons,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rasp- 
berry jelly,  and  a  little  cochineal;  mix  these 
together  with  a  strong  wooden  spatula ;  then 
add  two  handfuls  of  flour,  and  some  powder 
sugar ;  when  well  worked  up,  roll  them  into 
pieces  about  the  size  of  a  finger,  cut  these 
into  dice,  roll  each  into  a  ball,  pinch  the 
top  into  a  point,  so  as  to  resemble  the  form 
of  a  raspberry:  then  put  them  one  by  one 
into  paper  cases,  which  place  in  a  dry 
warm  place,  for  eight  or  ten  days.  At  the 
end  of  that  time,  put  a  portion  of  sirup  of 
raspberries,  a  little  cochineal,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  powder-sugar  into  a  pan;  mix 
them  together  with  a  spoon,  and  then  throw 
into  it  a  couple  of  handfuls  of  the  raspber- 
ries ;  take  the  pan  in  both  hands,  and  shake 
it  about,  so  that  the  raspberries  may  be 
equally  covered  with  the  red  sirup;  then 
put  sugar  a  la  grele  on  a  large  sheet  of 
paper,  spread  it  out  a  little,  and  while  the 
raspberries  are  wet  widi  the  sirup,  throw 
25* 


them  into  the  sugar;  then  take  the  four 
corners  of  the  paper,  shake  it  about  well, 
by  which  means  the  sugar  will  adhere  to 
the  raspberries  in  all  parts,  and  give  them 
a  perfect  resemblance  to  the  real  fruit ;  take 
them  out  carefully  one  by  one,  lay  them  on 
paper,  and  put  them  in  a  warm  place  for 
some  days.  These  artificial  raspberries  are 
of  a  pleasant  flavor,  and  will  keep  several 
years. 

RASPBERRY  MARMALADE.  Take 

double  the  weight  of  raspberries  to  that  of 
sugar.  Rub  the  fruit  through  a  sieve,  and 
put  the  pulp  into  a  saucepan ;  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  stir  till  it  is  reduced  to  half  ;  then 
pour  on  the  sugar,  previously  clarified  and 
boiled  to  petit  boute,  stir  it  well  in,  put  it 
on  the  fire,  give  it  a  few  boils,  and  then 
pour  it  into  pots. 

RASPBERRIES  PRESERVED.  Take 
five  or  six  pounds  of  red,  but  not  too  ripe 
raspberries,  pick,  and  put  them  into  a  pre- 
serving pan,  with  an  equal  weight  of  clari- 
fied sugar,  boiled  to  petit  boulej  when 
they  have  boiled  up  about  a  dozen  times, 
skim,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  pan  till  the 
next  day,  then  drain  the  fruit,  and  put  it 
into  jars;  put  to  the  sirup  about  two  glass- 
es of  cherry  juice,  previously  strained ;  boil 
the  sugar  to  la  nappe,  and  then  pour  it 
over  the  raspberries ;  add  afterwards,  about 
a  spoonful  of  currant  jelly  to  each  pot,  and 
when  cold,  lay  on  brandy  papers,  and  tie 
tliem  down. 

RATAFIA  OF  FOUR  FRUITS.  Take 
ten  pounds  of  very  ripe  cherries,  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  raspberries,  five  pounds  and  a 
half  of  red  and  two  pounds  of  black  cur- 
rants; pick,  and  mix  diese  fruits  together, 
press  the  juice  from  them,  measure  it,  and 
for  every  quart  of  juice,  take  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  brandy; 
dissolve  the  sugar  in  die  juice,  then  put  in 
the  brandy,  a  drachm  of  mace,  and  two 
drachms  of  cloves.  Let  the  whole  stand 
some  time,  filter,  and  bottle  it.  Keep  them 
well  corked. 

ROSES,  CANDIED.  Crisp  two  hand- 
fuls of  rose-leaves  in  some  clarified  sugar, 
boil  them  to  fort  souffle,  then  take  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  pour  it  on  a  sieve,  let  the  sir- 
up run  from  the  leaves,  rubbing  the  latter  in 
your  hands,  then  dry  them  in  a  stove.  Boil 
your  sugar  again  to  souffle,  adding  a  little 
carmine  to  color  it,  have  a  proper  mould 
ready,  pour  the  sugar  into  it,  and  put  the 
flowers  on  it,  push  them  down  lightly  with 
a  fork,  that  they  may  be  completely  cover- 
ed with  the  sugar ;  place  the  mould  in  a 
moderate  stove  or  oven  for  five  days,  then 


SEE 


294 


STR 


drain  off  the  sirup ;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  on 
the  table,  and  turn  the  candy  quickly  out 
of  tlie  mould. 

ROSES,  CONSERVE  OF.  Boil  half 
a  pound  of  sugar  to  fort  souffle,  pour  into 
this  sirup  the  best  double-distilled  rose 
water;  boil  it  again  to  fort  perle,  mix 
with  it  a  little  prepared  cochineal  or  car- 
mine to  color  it,  and  pour  your  conserve 
into  moulds. 

ROSE  RED  DROPS.  Take  a  small 
quantity  of  red  bastard  saffron,  and  a  little 
-Calcined  alum,  boil  these  in  some  water  until 
it  is  sufficiently  tinged  for  your  purpose; 
tlien  filter  or  strain  it  through  a  veiy  close 
linen  cloth;  put  five  or  six  spoouAils  of  sift- 
ed sugar  into  the  pan,  dilute  it  with  the 
colored  water,  work  it  well  with  the  bois  a 
tabeller,  and  set  it  over  a  chafing-dish ;  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  add  two  more  spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  having  worked  it  well,  per- 
fume it  with  some  dro[)s  ol' essence  of  roses, 
and  finish  as  directed.  (See  Orange-flow- 
er Drops.) 

ROSSOLS.  Take  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  picked  orange-flowers,  a  |)ound 
of  musk  roses,  six  drachms  of  cinnamon, 
and  two  of  cloves  (both  bruised);  put  theuj 
into  a  cucurbite  with  three  gallons  of  pure 
water;  on  distilling  this,  it  will  yield  a  gal- 
lon and  a  half,  in  which  dissolve  twelve 
pounds  of  fine  sugar  broken  up ;  add  to  it 
an  equal  quantity  of  spirit  of  jessamine,  col- 
or it  crimson  with  cochineal,  filter  and  bot- 
tle it. 


S. 


SEEDS,  SUGARED.  These  are  done 
in  the  same  manner  as  sugared  almonds. 
The  seeds  most  generally  used  for  this  pur- 
pose are  anise,  cummin,  and  fennel. 

The  best  method  of  proceeding  is  as  fol- 
lows: place  a  small  preserving-pan  over  a 
charcoal  fire,  on  the  side  of  which  have  a 
chafing  dish,  on  which  keep  a  pan  with  a 
quantity  of  sugar  boiled  to  lisse;  (this  su- 
gar should  be  kept  quite  hot,  but  not  boil- 
ing) ;  on  the  other  side  have  some  fine  pow- 
der. When  so  far  prepared,  put  your  seeds 
into  the  pan,  and  as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
heat,  pour  over  them  a  large  sjwonful  or 
two  of  the  sirup ;  stir  them  about,  that  all 
may  be  thoroughly  saturated  with  it ;  then 
sprinkle  over  it  a  handful  or  two  of  powder, 
Btill  shaking  the  pan  to  make  the  seeds 
equally  white.  When  dry,  pour  on  some 
more  sirup,  then  the  powder,  and  continue 
tliis  alternately  until  your  seeda  are  suf- 


ficiently large;  then  lay  them  on  a  sieve, 
keep  them  in  a  warm  place  for  some  days, 
after  which  put  them  into  glass  bottles. 

SOUFFLE  FRANCAIS.  Make  a 
croustade  eleven  inches  in  diameter,  and 
three  and  three-quarters  in  height;  put 
round  it  three  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  and 
bake  it. 

Take  twelve  glasses  of  boiling  milk,  in 
which  infuse  whatever  ingredients  you  may 
think  proper,  such  as  vatiilla,  coffee,  orange- 
flowers,  &c.  (the  proportions  will  be  found 
under  the  different  articles).  In  the  mean- 
time, wash  a  pound  of  rice  thoroughly  in 
warm  water,  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water,  and  when  it  has  boiled  a  few 
minutes,  strain  the  rice,  and  put  it  with 
your  infusion  into  another  saucepan,  and 
set  it  again  on  the  fire;  as  soon  as  it  boils, 
place  the  saucepan  on  hot  ashes,  that  the 
rice  may  burst  gradually;  in  tliree-{iuarters 
of  an  hour,  add  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
and  a  pinch  of  sail,  stir  them  well  in;  put 
fresh  hot  ashes  under  the  saucepm,  that  the 
rice  may  be  kept  constantly  simmering  for 
an  hour,  by  which  time  it  ought  to  be  per- 
fectly soft,  and  should  be  rubbed  through  a 
bolting-cloth  cjuickly,  like  a  puree;  put  this 
into  another  saucepan  over  hot  ashes,  to 
keep  it  warm.  Take  sixteen  eggs,  sepa- 
rate the  yolks  and  whites,  beat  the  former 
well,  and  whisk  the  latter  till  nearly  firm ; 
then  mix  the  yolks  with  the  rice  (taking 
off  the  ashes) ;  the  preparation  ought  to  be 
of  the  same  consistence  as  a  cream  palis- 
siere;  add,  at  first,  a  quarter,  and  after- 
wards the  whole  of  the  whites ;  stir  them  in 
as  lightly  as  for  biscuit  paste;  the  whole  be- 
ing thoroughly  amalgamated,  pour  it  into 
the  croustade,  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  two  hours  and  a  half;  when  done, 
cover  a  baking  tin  with  red  cinders,  on 
which  place  the  souffle  the  moment  it  is 
taken  out  of  the  oven;  this  prevents  its 
falling,  whilst  you  mask  it  witli  powder- 
sugar,  and  glaze  with  the  salamander;  car- 
ry it  into  the  dining-room  on  a  tin,  have  a 
dish  ready  with  a  napkin  folded  on  it; 
place  the  souffle  on  the  dish,  and  let  it  be 
served  immediately.  Remember  tliat  a 
souffle  cannot  be  seived  too  quickly. 

STRAWBERRY,     COMPOTE    OF. 

This  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  Rasp- 
berries, only  diat  the  strawberries  do  not 
require  being  mixed  with  any  otlier  fruit. 

STRAWBERRY  CONSERVE.   Take 

some  very  ripe  fresh  strawberries,  pick,  and 
crush  them  through  a  tammy.  For  every 
dessert  spoonfiil  of  juice,  allow  six  ounces 
of  sugar ;  boil  this  to  fort  perle,  take  it 


SUG 


295 


SUG 


off  tlie  fire,  and  pour  in  the  juice ;  stir  them 
together  with  a  silver  spoon,  until  the  con- 
serve begins  to  whiten  and  dry,  then  put  it 
into  moulds  or  paper  cases.  If  the  conserve 
be  too  white,  add  a  little  carmine  to  the 
sirup. 

STRAWBERRY      MARCHPANE. 

Take  two  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  two 
pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  a  pound  of 
picked  strawberries.  Beat  the  almonds  to 
a  fine  paste,  and  mix  them  with  the  sugar 
(boiled  to  petit  boule;)  crush,  and  strain 
die  juice  of  the  fruit,  which  add  to  the  al- 
mond paste  and  sirup;  stir  the  mixture  well, 
set  it  on  hot  ashes,  and  continue  stirring  until 
die  paste  is  sufficiently  dune;  tliis  may  be 
proved  i)y  laying  a  piece  on  the  back  of  your 
hand ;  if  it  may  be  removed  without  its 
sticking,  it  is  enough;  when  cold,  spread  it 
over  a  slab,  and  cut  it  of  any  size  and  shape 
you  diink  proper. 

SUGAR,  TO  CLARIFY.  Take  fo.ir 
pounds  of  sugar,  and  break  it  into  pieces; 
put  into  a  [)reserving-pan  the  white  of  an 
egg,  and  a  glass  of  pure  spring  water;  mix 
them  well  with  a  whisk,  add  another  glass, 
still  whipping,  until  two  quarts  of  water 
have  been  put  in ;  when  the  pan  is  full  of 
froth,  thi'ow  in  the  sugar,  and  set  it  on  the 
fire,  being  careful  to  skim  it  eveiy  time  the 
scum  rises,  which  will  be  the  case  as  the 
sugar  boils  up.  After  a  few  boilings,  the 
sugar  will  rise  so  high  as  to  run  over  the 
edges  of  the  pan,  to  prevent  which,  throw 
on  it  a  little  cold  water ;  this  will  lower  it 
instantly,  and  give  time  for  the  skimming, 
for  the  scum  should  never  be  taken  off  whilst 
die  sugar  is  bubbling ;  the  cold  water  stills 
it,  and  that  is  the  moment  to  skim  it.  Re- 
peat diis  operation  carefully  three  or  four 
times,  when  a  whitish  light  scum  only  will 
rise;  then  take  die  pan  off,  lay  a  napkin, 
slightly  wetted,  over  a  basin,  and  pour  the 
sugar  through  it. 

The  scum  thus  taken  off,  put  into  a  china 
basin;  and  when  the  sugar  is  clarified,  wash 
the  pan  and  the  skimmer  with  a  glass  of 
water,  which  put  to  the  scum,  and  set  it 
aside  for  more  common  purposes. 

SUGAR,  Different  Degrees  of  Pre- 
paring. The  various  purposes  to  which 
sugar  is  applied,  require  it  to  be  in  different 
slates;  these  are  called  degrees,  and  are 
thirteen  in  number,  called  as  follows: 

Petit  Lisse,  or  First  Degree.  Re- 
place the  clarified  sugar  in  the  preserving- 
pan,  to  boil  gently,  take  a  drop  of  it  on  the 
thumb,  touch  it  with  the  fore- finger;  if,  on 
opening  Uiem,  it  draws  to  a  fine  thread,  and 
in  breaking,  forms  two  drops  on  each  finger, 
it  is  at  the  right  point. 


Lisse,  Second  Degree.  A  little  more 
boiling  brings  it  to  this  point;  when  the 
thread  will  draw  further  before  it  breaks. 

Petit  Perle,  T'hird  Degree.  At  this 
point  the  thread  may  be  drawn  as  far  as  the 
span  will  open,  without  breaking. 

Grand  Perle,  Fourth  Degree.  On 
still  increasing  the  boiling,  little  raised  balls 
are  formed  on  the  surface  of  the  sugar. 

Petit  Queue  de  Cochon,  Fifth  Degree. 
Take,  up  some  of  the  sugar  on  a  skimmer, 
and  drop  it  on  the  rest,  when  it  should  form 
a  slanting  streak  on  the  surface.  Boil  it  a 
little  longer,  and  it  will  reach  the 

Grande  Queue  de  Cochon,  or  Sixth 
Degree.     The  streak  or  tail  is  now  larger. 

Souffle,  Seventh  Degree.  Take  out  a 
skimmeiful  of  the  sugar,  blow  through  it, 
and  small  sparks  of  sugar  will  fly  from  it. 

Petit-Plume,  Eighth  Degree.  The 
same  proof  as  above ;  die  sparks  should  be 
larger  and  stronger. 

Grande  Plume,  Ninth  Degree.  Take 
the  sugar  in  the  skimmer,  as  before,  give  it 
a  shake,  and  if  the  sparks  are  large,  and 
adhere  together  on  rising,  it  is  at  the  right 
point. 

Petit  Boulet,  Tenth  Degree.  Dip 
your  fingers  in  cold  water,  and  then  into 
the  sugar  instantly,  and  again  into  the  wa- 
ter, when  the  sugar  will  roll  into  a  ball, 
which  will  be  supple  when  cold. 

Gros  Boulet,  Eleventh  Degree.  At 
this  point,  the  ball  or  bullet  will  be  harder 
when  cold  than  at  the  last. 

Casse,  Twelfth  Degree.  Prove  as 
above;  the  bullet  should  crumble  between 
the  fingers,  and  on  biting,  will  stick  to  the 
teeth ;  at  the  next  point. 

Caramel,  Thirteenth  Degree,  It 
should  snap  clean.  This  point  is  very  diflS- 
cult  to  attain,  for  in  increasing  the  height, 
the  sugar  is  apt  to  burn ;  it  is  better  there- 
fore to  try  the  proof  veiy  frequently. 

Another  caramel  is  frequently  used  by  the 
coiirecti<jner,  and  is  of  a  deep  color;  it  is 
made  by  putting  a  little  water  to  die  sugar, 
and  boiling  it  without  skimming,  or  odier- 
wise  touching  the  sugar,  till  of  the  right 
color,  then  take  it  off  and  use  immediately. 

If,  on  preparing  the  sugar,  you  happen  to 
miss  the  right  point,  add  a  little  cold  water, 
and  boil  once  more. 

Observations. — The  skimmer  should 
never  be  left  in  the  preserving- pan  after  the 
sugar  is  clarified,  nor  after  the  sciun  is  re- 
moved. 

Be  very  careful  not  to  stir  or  disturb  the 
sugar,  as  that  would  cause  its  diminution. 

In  boiling  the  sugar  (particularly  the  two 
last  degrees),  the  sugar  is  continually  rising 
and  falling;  and  on  falling,  leaves  marks  on 
die  sides  of  the  pan,  which  die  heat  of  the 
fire  would  soon  burn,  and  thereby  spoil  the 


TRl 


296 


VAN 


whole  of  the  sugar ;  to  avoid  this,  have  by 
the  side  of  you  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  a 
sponge,  with  which  wipe  tlie  sides  of  tlie 
pan  carefully,  the  instant  after  die  sugar  has 
fallen. 

SUGAR  LIKE  SNOW.  Blanch  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds,  pound 
tliem  to  a  very  fine  paste  in  a  marble  mor- 
tar, with  the  whites  of  four  eggs;  when 
perfectly  smooth,  add  a  pound  of  the  best 
lump  sugar  (in  powder),  and  five  or  six 
more  whites  of  eggs ;  stir  all  together  well, 
until  of  such  consistence  that  it  may  be 
kneaded  without  adhering  to  the  hands. 
Divide  this  preparation  into  two  parts,  one 
of  which,  tinge  of  a  red  color,  either  with 
bolus  armena,  or  cochineal,  and  perfume  it 
with  essential  oil  of  roses  or  bergamot; 
leave  the  other  portion  of  paste  while,  but 
flavor  it  as  follows: — grate  the  rind  of  two 
fine  sound  lemons  on  a  small  piece  of  sugar, 
scrape  off  the  surface,  and  when  pounded  in 
a  small  mortar,  work  it  into  the  uncolored 

Eortion  of  sugar-paste,  then  roll  it  out  to  about 
alf  an  inch  in  thickness  (having  previously 
sprinkled  the  slab  with  powder-sugar,)  cut 
it  with  a  tin-paste  cutter  about  two  inches 
diameter;  arrange  them  on  white  paper, 
which  place  on  a  baking  tin,  and  put  them 
into  a  moderate  oven  for  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour ;  proceed  in  the  same  manner 
with  the  colored  paste.  When  cold,  detach 
them  from  the  paper. 

SUGAR  PASTE.  Take  a  pound  of 
flour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  one 
egg;  mix  all  together  with  a  little  water. 
This  paste  may  be  used  for  any  second- 
course  dish. 
« 


T. 


TABLET  OF  PATIENCE.  Take 
eight  eggs,  and  whip  the  whites  to  a  firm 
snow;  in  the  meantime  have  the  yolks 
beaten  up  with  six  ounces  of  powder-sugar; 
(both  these  operations  should  be  peiformed 
for  at  least  half  an  hour) ;  tlien  mix  the  two 
together,  add  six  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and 
when  well  incorporated,  pour  in  half  a  pint 
of  rose  or  orange-flower  water;  stir  the 
whole  together  for  some  time.  Have  ready 
some  tin  plates,  well  rubbed  with  butter; 
take  a  funnel  that  has  three  or  four  tubes, 
fill  it  with  the  paste,  and  push  out  your 
tablets;  when  the  tin  plates  are  full,  put 
them  into  a  pretty  warm  oven.  When  done, 
take  them  from  the  tins  whilst  hot. 

TRIFLE.     (1)     Sweeten  three  pints  of 


cream ;  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  mountain  wine, 
grate  in  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  squeeze  in  the 
juice,  and  grate  in  half  a  nutmeg ;  whisk  this 
up,  lay  the  froth  on  a  large  sieve,  and  the  sieve 
over  a  dish  that  has  ratafia  cakes,  maca- 
roons, sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  pound- 
ed, citron,  and  candied  orange-|)eel,  cut  into 
small  pieces,  some  currant  jelly,  and  rasp- 
berry jam  in  it,  that  the  liquor  may  run 
upon  them;  when  they  are  soaked,  lay  them 
in  the  dish  you  intend  to  serve  in,  put  on  the 
frotli  as  high  as  possible,  well  drained; 
strew  over  nonpareils,  and  stick  on  little 
slices  of  citron,  orange,  or  lemon-peel. 

TRIFLE.  (2)  Lay  some  macaroons 
and  ratafia  drops  over  the  bottom  of  your 
dish,  and  soak  them  well  with  raisin  wine, 
when  soaked,  pour  on  them  a  very  rich  cold 
custard.  It  must  stand  two  or  three  inches 
thick;  on  that  put  a  layer  of  raspberry  jam, 
and  cover  the  whole  with  a  very  high  whip 
made  the  preceding  day,  of  rich  cream,  tlie 
whites  of  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  sugar,  lem- 
on-peel, and  raisin  wine,  well  lx;at  with  a 
whisk.  It  is  best  to  make  it  tlie  day  before 
it  is  wanted,  being  more  solid  and  better 
tasted. 

TRIFLE.  (3)  Put  half  a  pound  of  maca- 
roons into  a  dish,  pour  over  them  some  while 
wine,  and  a  pint  of  custard  over  that,  make 
a  whip,  and  put  on  it;  garnish  according  to 
your  fancy. 


V. 


VANILLA  CREAM.  Take  two 
drachms  of  vanilla,  a  quart  of  milk,  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  five  ounces  of  sugar,  and 
a  pint  of  cream ;  beat  up  the  eggs  well  with 
the  milk,  and  tlien  add  the  other  ingredients; 
set  the  whole  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  it 
constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  till  the 
cream  will  adhere  to  it;  then  strain,  and 
serve  it  cold. 

VANILLA       CREAM,       BOLTED. 

Take  as  much  cream  as  will  fill  the  mould 
you  intend  to  use,  and  boil  it  up  a  few 
times,  with  the  proportionate  quantities  of 
vanilla  and  sugar;  then  let  it  cool,  and  if 
the  mould  will  contain  a  (juart,  mix  twelve 
yolks  and  three  whole  eggs  with  the  cream, 
and  run  it  five  times  through  a  bolting  cloth. 
Butter  the  mould,  pour  the  cream  into  it, 
and  place  it  in  the  bain  marie,  bui  not  too 
hot;  when  the  cream  is  set,  which  yon  may 
know  by  touching  it  gently  with  your  finger, 
turn  it  on  a  dish;  take  the  reuiaintler  of 
the  cr^am,  stir  it  over  the  fire  like  white 


VER 


297 


vio 


sauce,  and  as  soon  as  it  sticks  to  the  spoon 
(which  must  be  of  wood),  tJike  it  off,  stir  it 
an  instant,  and  then  pour  it  over  tlie  other 
cream,  and  serve  cold. 

VANILLA  CREAM  WHIPPED.  Put 
a  pinch  of  gum-dragon  into  a  pint  of  cream, 
add  a  small  quantity  of  orange-flower  water, 
powder-sugar  to  tlie  taste,  and  a  little  milk, 
m  which  some  vanilla  has  been  boiled,  and 
the  milk  strained;  whip  these  ingredients 
with  a  whisk,  until  the  whole  is  sufficiently 
frothed ;  tlien  lay  it  carefully  on  a  dish,  in  a 
pyramidal  form,  and  serve  it. 

VANILLA  CREAM  ICE.  Whisk  the 
whites  of  twelve  eggs  to  a  firm  froth  in  a 
preserving  pan,  pour  on  them  the  yolks  of 
eight,  and  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  whip  the 
whole  well  with  a  whisk,  and  pour  in  by  de- 
grees two  quarts  of  boiling  cream;  continue 
to  whip  it  for  some  little  lime,  and  then  put 
it  on  the  fire,  with  half  an  ounce  of  vanilla 
bruised;  still  whipping,  when  it  has  boiled 
up  three  or  four  times,  strain  it,  and  fi-eeze 
as  usual.     (See  Ice.) 

VANILLA      CREAM     LIQUEUR. 

Dissolve  over  the  fire  two  pounds  ten  ounces 
of  broken  sugar,  in  three  pints  of  purified 
river  water;  when  it  has  boiled  up  once, 
pour  it  into  a  jar,  on  three  drachms  of  va- 
nilla, cut  in  pieces,  and  half  a  grain  of  amber. 
When  quite  cold,  add  three  pints  of  good 
brandy,  cover  the  vessel,  and  when  it  has 
infused  six  days,  color  it  with  a  little  pre- 
pared cochineal;  filter,  and  bottle  the  li- 
queur. Cork  the  bottles  tight,  and  seal  the 
corks. 

VANILLA  STICKS.  Take  some 
marchpane  paste,  a  quarter  of  a  poiuid  of 
chocolate,  and  the  same  of  vanilla;  mix 
these  well  into  the  paste,  and  then  form  it 
into  sticks,  like  the  vanilla  in  its  original 
form;  lay  tliem  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

VERDE.  Infuse  the  rind  of  three  lem- 
ons and  four  oranges  in  two  quarts  of  rum 
or  brandy,  for  four-and-twenty  hours,  close- 
ly stopped ;  then  squeeze  the  juice  through 
a  strainer;  if  the  fruit  is  good,  tliere  will  be 
half  a  pint,  and  if  there  is  not  so  much,  make 
it  that;  add  to  it  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
sugar,  pour  to  it  three  quarts  of  water,  and 
keep  stirring  till  all  the  sugar  is  dissolved; 
when  it  is  dissolved,  stir  in  the  peel  and 
spirits,  and  then  one  pint  of  cold  new  milk; 
pass  it  through  a  bag  till  clear;  bottle  it. 
It  will  keep  good  for  twelve  months. 

VERJUICE.  (1)  Verjuice  is  the  young, 
unripe,  and  sour  grape;    it  is  frequently 


used  in  French  cookery,  but  Tery  rarely  put 
into  English  dishes. 

VERJUICE.  (2)  Take  some  crab 
apples  when  the  kernels  turn  black,  lay  them 
in  a  heap  to  sweat ;  then  pick  them  from 
the  stalks  and  rottenness,  beat  them  to  a 
mash,  and  press  the  juice  through  a  bag  of 
coarse  hair  cloth  into  a  clean  vessel ;  it  will 
be  fit  for  use  in  a  month's  time.  If  inten- 
ded for  white  pickles,  distil  it  in  a  cold  still. 
It  may  be  put  into  sauces  when  lemon  is 
wanting. 

VESPETRO.  Take  half  a  pound  of 
each  of  the  following  seeds:  angelica,  cori- 
ander, fennel,  and  caraway,  the  rinds  of 
four  lemons,  and  as  many  oranges,  infuse  all 
these  in  two  gallons  and  a  half  of  the  best 
brandy,  close  the  vessel  hermetically.  In 
five  days  time,  distil  it  in  the  bain  marie 
alembic,  and  draw  from  the  above  quantity 
five  quarts  of  liqueur.  Dissolve  seven 
pounds  of  sugar  in  a  gallon  of  pure  river 
water ;  add  this  sirup  to  tlie  liqueur,  filter, 
and  bottle  it. 

VIOLETS  CANDIED.  Pick  off  the 
green  stalks  from  some  double  violets ;  boil 
some  sugar  to  souffle;  put  in  the  violets, 
and  keep  them  in  till  the  sugar  again  boilg 
to  souffle;  then  rub  the  sugar  against  the 
sides  of  the  pan  until  it  is  white ;  stir  all 
together  till  the  sugar  leaves  the  violets,  and 
then  sift  and  dry  them. 

VIOLETS     TO     ROCK     CANDY. 

Pick  the  leaves  off  the  violets;  then  boil 
some  of  die  best,  and  finest  sugar  to  souffle^ 
pour  it  into  a  candying-pan  made  of  tin,  in 
die  fonn  of  a  di'ipping-pan,  about  three  inches 
deep;  then  strew  the  violet  leaves  as  thick 
as  possible  on  the  top,  and  put  it  into  a  hot 
stove,  in  which  let  it  remain  for  ten  days; 
when  it  is  hard  candied,  break  a  hole  in  one 
corner  of  it,  and  drain  off  all  the  sirup; 
break  it  out,  and  place  it  in  heaps  upon  a 
tin  to  dry  in  a  stove. 

VIOLETS,  CONSERVE  OF.  Take 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  early  violets,  picked ; 
bruise  them  in  a  mortar;  boil  two  pounds 
of  sugar  to  casse,  take  it  off,  put  in  the  pulp, 
and  mix  them  together  over  the  fire,  and 
when  the  sugar  bubbles  up,  pour  the  conserve 
into  tlie  moulds. 

VIOLET  DRpPS.  (1)  Take  a  cer- 
tain quantity  of  sirup  of  violets,  which  mix 
with  an  equal  portion  of  water;  use  this 
mixture,  and  make  your  drops  precisely  as 
directed.  You  may,  if  you  please,  perfiime 
it  with  oil  of  violets,  but  that  is  not  neces- 
sary, as  the  sirup,  imparts  sufficient  odour 


VIO 


298 


WOR 


VIOLET  DROPS.  (2)  Take  the 
juice  of  six  lemons,  mix  with  it  some  finely 
sifted  powdered  sugar,  and  two  spoonfuls 
of  essence  of  violets,  and  color  it  of  a  fine 
blue  color;  mix  the  whole  well  together, 
and  dry  it  over  the  fire,  the  same  as  all  oth- 
ers, and  drop  them  off  a  knife  on  paper,  the 
usual  size  of  drops;  let  them  stand  till  cold, 
be  careful  that  your  mixture  is  not  too  thin ; 
when  the  drops  are  cold,  put  them  into  pa- 
pered boxes. 

VIOLETS,  MARMALADE  OF.  Take 
three  pounds  of  violets,  and  four  pounds  of 
sugar,  put  the  former  into  a  mortar  and 
bruise  them  to  a  pulp;  in  the  meantime  boil 
tlie  sugar  to  souffle,  then  add  the  flowers ; 
«tir  them  together,  add  two  pounds  of  ajiple 
marmalade,  and  when  it  has  boiled  up  a 
few  times,  put  the  marmalade  into  pots. 

VIOLETS,  SIRUP  OF.  Pound  jery 
lightly  in  a  marble  mortar,  and  with  a 
wooden  {jestle,  one  pound  of  picked  violets; 
warm  gradually  a  glass,  or  earthenware  ves- 
sel with  a  small  opening,  into  which  put  the 
pounded  flowers,  and  pour  over  them  two 
pounds  of  Ijoiling  water;  close  ihe  vessel 
hermetically,  and  place  it  on  liot  ashes,  re- 
newing tliem  when  necessary,  to  keep  up  an 


equal  temperature  for  twelve  hours;  after 
that  time  pass  the  whole  through  a  close 
cloth,  squeezing  it  well ;  let  it  stand  for  half 
an  hour;  then  pour  it  off  very  carefully,  that 
all  the  sediment  may  remain  at  the  bottom; 
weigh  it,  and  the  above  quantities  will  have 
yielded  seventeen  ounces ;  put  into  a  matrass 
two  pounds  of  crushed  sugar  with  the  infu- 
sion, close  the  matrass  tight,  and  set  it  in 
the  bain  marie,  over  a  moderate  fire ;  shake 
it  occasionally  to  accelerate  the  dissolution 
of  the  sugar,  and  when  perfectly  dissolved, 
let  the  fire  go  out  and  the  matrass  cool  g-rad- 
ually.  When  cold,  pour  the  sirup  into 
bottles. 


W. 

WORMWOOD  CREME  LIQUEUR. 

Distil  in  the  bain-marie  the  zests  of  two 
oranges,  and  half  a  jwund  of  fresh  gathered 
wormwood  tops,  in  a  gallon  of  brandy, 
which  will  produce  nearly  half  the  quantity 
of  liqueur.  Dissolve  four  pounds  of  sugar 
in  as  many  pints  of  filtered  river  water ;  mix 
this  sirup  with  the  liqueurs  run  it  through 
a  jelly-bag,  and  bottle  it. 


ICF'Many  receipts  for  Confectionery  may  be  found  in  the  fir^'. 
part  of  this  Book .  ''  ; 


EXPLANATION 


Of  some  of  the  Terms  m^de  use  of  in  the  foregoing  Pages. 

Atelets — Small  silver  skewers. 

Baba — A  French  sweet  yeast  cake. 

Bain-Marie — See  the  word  in  its  place. 

Bouquet — A  bunch  of  parsley  and  scallions  tied  up  to  put  in  soups,  &c. 

Bouquet  garni,  or  Assaisonne — The  same,  with  the  addition  of  cloves  and  aromatic 

herbs. 
Bourguignote — A  ragout  of  truffles. 
Braise — See  word  iu  its  place. 

Brioche — A  French  yeast  cake.  **' 

Buisson — A  whinasical  method  of  dressing  up  pastry,  &c.  E 

Capiloiade — A  common  hash  of  poultry.  r«  ▼  iw  t^ 

Caramel,  see  page  295.  /SIT  * 

Casse,  see  page,  295. 

Civet — A  hash  of  game  or  wild  fowl.  Vf  "t  ^» 

Compiegne — A  French  sweet  yeast  cake,  with  fruit,  &c.  &c.  J  ^  V»^^ 

Compote — A  fine  mixed  ragout  to  garnish  white  poultry,  &c. ;  also  a  mem^^flPlTOwing 

fruit  with  sirup  for  desserts. 
Compotier — A  dish  amongst  the  dessert  service  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  compote. 
Couronne — To  serve  any  prescribed  articles  on  a  dish  in  the  form  of  a  crown. 
Court  or  short  (to  stew) — To  reduce  a  sauce  very  thick. 
Crcustade — Bread  baked  in  a  mould,  and  scooped  out  to  contain  minces,  &c. 
Croutons — Bread  cut  in  various  shapes,  and  fried  lightly  in  butter  or  oil. 
Dorez — To  wash  pastry,  &c.  with  yolk  of  egg  well  beaten. 
Dorure — Yolks  of  eggs  beaten  well. 
Entrees — Are  dishes  served  at  the  commencement,  or  during  the  first  course  of  the 

dinner. 
Entremets — Small  ornamental  dishes,  served  in  the  second  and  third  courses. 
Farce,  stuffing. 

Financiere — An  expensive,  highly-flavored,  mixed  ragout. 
Flan — A  French  custard. 
Glaze,  {to  fall  to  a) — To  reduce  sauces  till  they  become  a  jelly,  and  adhere  to  the 

meat. 
Glaze — Is  usually  made  from  reduced  consomme,  or  juices  from  the  bottoms  of  braised 

white  meats;  it  should  be  presei-ved  in  jelly-pots. 
Glaze,  Glace,  or  Ice — Is  composed  of  white  of  egg  beaten  with  powder-sugar. 
Godiiseau — A  common  veal  forcemeat. 
Grand  Plume,  see  page  295. 
Grand  Perle,  see  page  295. 
Grand  Queue  de  Cochon,  see  page  295. 
Gros  Boulet,  see  page  295. 

Gras  (au) — Ti»is  signifies  that  the  article  specified  is  dressed  with  meat  gravy. 
Graiin — A  layer  of  some  particular  article  is  spread  over  a  silver,  or  any  other  dish  that 

will  bear  die  fire,  and  placed  on  a  stove  or  hot  ashes  until  it  burns  to  it. 
Hors  d'ceuvre — A  small  dish,  sei-ved  during  tlie  first  course. 
Hatelets — The  same  as  Atelets. 
Lard — To  stick  bacon,  or  other  specified  articles,  into  poultry,  meat,  &c. ;  it  is  done  by 

means  of  a  larding-pin,  one  end  of  which  is  pointed,  the  other  square,  and  hollow; 

the  lardon  is  put  into  this  hollow,  the  point  is  then  inserted  into  the  meat,  and  on  be- 
ing drawn  out,  leaves  the  lardon  standing  up  in  its  proper  place. 
Lardons — The  pieces  into  which  bacon  and  other  things  are  cut,  for  the  purpose  of 

larding  meat,  &c.  &c. 
Larding-pan — An  utensil  by  means  of  which  meat,  &c.  is  larded. 
Liaison — A  finish  with  yolks  of  eggs  and  cream,  for  ragouts  and  sauces. 


SOO  COOKERY  TERMS    EXPLAINED. 

Liase,  see  page  295. 

Madeleines — Cakes  made  of  the  same  composition  as  pound>cakes. 

Maigre — Soups,  &c.  dressed  without  meat. 

Marinade — A  prepared  pickle  for  meat,  fish,  &c. 

Mask — To  cover  completely. 

Nouilles — An  Italian  paste,  resembling  macaroni;  it  is  flat,  instead  of  being  in  pipes. 

Panada — Bread  soaked  in  milk,  used  principally  for  quenelles  and  fine  farces. 

Passer — To  irv  lightly. 

Pate — A  raised  crust  pie. 

Petit  Boulet,  see  page  295. 

Petit  Lisse,  see  page  295. 

Petit  Perle,  see  page  295. 

Petit  Plume,  see  page  295. 

Petit  Queue  de  Cochon,  see  page  295. 

Poele — A  light  braise  for  white  meats.  The  difference  between  this  and  the  bi-aise  is, 
that  in  the  former  the  meat,  or  whatever  it  may  be,  need  not  be  so  much  done  as  in 
the  latter. 

Potage — Another  term  for  soup. 

Puree — Any  meat,  fish,  or  other  article,  boiled  to  a  pulp,  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve. 

Quenelles — A  fine  farce;  it  is  generally  poached  when  used. 

Salmi — A  highly  seasoned  hash. 

Sauter — To  fry  very  lightly. 

Sabotiere,  or  Sorbetiere — A  pewter  or  tin  vessel,  in  which  are  placed  the  moulds  con- 
taining the  substance  to  be  frozen. 

Souffle,  see  page  295. 

Tammy — A  silk  sieve. 

Tourner,  or  Turn — To  stir  a  sauce;  also  to  pare  and  cut  roots,  vegetables,  and  fruits, 
neatly. 

Tourte — A  puff-paste  pie. 

Vanner — ^To  take  up  sauce,  or  other  liquid,  in  a  spoon,  and  turn  it  over  quickly. 


SEVENTY-FIVE 


RECEIPTS 


FOA 


PASTRY,  CAKES,  AND  SWEETMEATS. 


BY  MISS  LESLIE,  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 


PREFACE. 


The  following  Receipts  for  Pastry,  Cakes,  and  Sweetmeats, 
are  original,  and  have  been  used  by  the  author  and  many  of  her 
friends  with  uniform  success.  They  are  drawn  up  in  a  style  so 
plain  and  minute,  as  to  be  perfectly  intelligible  to  servants,  and 
persons  of  the  most  moderate  capacity.  All  the  ingredients,  with 
their  proper  quantities,  are  enumerated  in  a  list  at  the  head  of  each 
receipt,  a  plan  which  will  greatly  facilitate  the  business  of  procur- 
ing and  preparing  the  requisite  articles. 

There  is  frequently  much  difficulty  in  following  directions  in 
English  and  French  Cookery  Books,  not  only  from  their  want  of 
explicitness,  but  from  the  difference  in  the  fuel,  fire-places,  and 
cooking  utensils,  generally  used  in  Europe  and  America;  and 
many  of  the  European  receipt-s  are  so  complicated  and  laborious, 
that  our  female  cooks  are  afraid  to  undertake  the  arduous  task  of 
making  any  thing  from  them. 

The  receipts  in  this  little  book  are,  in  every  sense  of  the  word, 
American;  but  the  writer  flatters  herself  that  (if  exactly  follow- 
ed) the  articles  produced  from  them  will  not  be  found  inferior  to 
any  of  a  similar  description  made  in  the  European  manner.  Ex- 
perience has  proved,  that  pastry,  cakes.  Sec.  prepared  precisely 
according  to  these  directions  will  not  fail  to  be' excellent:  but 
where  economy  is  expedient^  a  portion  of  the  seasoning,  that  is, 
the  spice,  wine,  brandy,  rose-water,  essence  of  lemon,  &.c.  may 
be  omitted  without  any  essential  deviation  of  flavor,  or  difference 
of  appearance;  retaining,  however,  the  given  proportions  of  eggs, 
butter,  sugar,  and  flour. 

But  if  done  at  home,  and  by  a  person  that  can  be  trusted,  it 
will  be  proved,  on  trial,  that  any  of  these  articles  may  be  made  in 
the  l^est  and  most  liberal  manner  at  one  half  of  the  cost  of  the 
same  articles  supplied  by  a  confectioner.  And  they  will  be  found 
particularly  useful  to  families  that  live  in  the  country  or  in  small 
towns,  where  nothing  of  the  kind  is  to  be  purchased. 


PASTRY. 


PRELIMINARY  REMARKS. 

In  making  pastry  or  cakes,  it  is  best  to  begin  by  weighing  out 
the  ingredients,  sifting  the  flour,  pounding  and  sifting  the  sugar 
and  spice,  washing  the  butter,  and  preparing  the  fruit. 

Sugar  can  be  powdered  by  pounding  it  in  a  large  mortar,  or  by 
rolUng  it  on  a  paste-board  with  a  roUing-pin.  It  should  be  made 
very  fine  and  always  sifted. 

All  sorts  of  spice  should  be  pounded  in  a  mortar, except  nutmeg, 
which  it  is  better  to  grate.  If  spice  is  wanted  in  large  quantities, 
it  may  be  ground  in  a  mill. 

The  butter  should  always  be  fresh  and  very  good.  Wash  it  in 
cold  water  before  you  use  it,  and  then  make  it  up  with  your  hands 
into  hard  lumps,  squeezing  the  water  well  out. 

If  the  butter  and  sugar  are  to  be  stirred  together,  always  do 
that  before  the  eggs  are  beaten,  as  (unless  they  are  kept  too  warm) 
the  butter  and  sugar  will  not  be  injured  by  standing  awhile.  For 
stirring  them,  nothing  is  so  convenient  as  a  round  hickory  stick 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  long,  and  somewhat  flattened  at  one  end. 

The  eggs  should  not  be  beaten  till  after  all  the  other  ingredients 
are  ready,  as  they  will  fall  very  soon.  If  the  whites  and  yolks  are 
to  be  beaten  separately,  do  the  whites  first,  as  they  will  stand 
longer. 

Eggs  should  be  beaten  in  a  broad  shallow  pan,  spreading  wide 
at  the  top.  Butter  and  sugar  should  be  stirred  in  a  deep  pan  with 
straight  sides. 

Break  every  egg  by  itself,  in  a  saucer,  before  you  put  it  into  the 
pan,  that  in  case  there  should  be  any  bad  ones,  they  may  not  spoil 
the  others. 

Eggs  are  beaten  most  expeditiously  with  rods.  A  small  quantity 
of  white  of  egg  may  be  beaten  with  a  knife,  or  a  three-pronged 
fork. 


There  can  be  no  positive  rules  as  to  the  exact  time  of  baking 
each  article.  Skill  in  baking  is  the  result  of  practice,  attention, 
and  experience.  Much,  of  course,  depends  on  the  state  of  the 
fire,  and  on  the  size  of  the  things  to  be  baked,  and  something  on 
the  thickness  of  the  pans  or  dishes. 

If  you  bake  in  a  stove,  put  some  bricks  in  the  oven  part  to  set 
the  pans  or  plates  on,  and  to  temper  the  heat  at  the  bottom.  Large 
sheets  of  iron,  without  sides,  will  be  found  very  useful  for  small 
cakes,  and  to  put  under  the  pans  or  plates. 


PASTRY. 


PUFF  PASTE. 

Half  a  pound  and  two  ounces  of  sifted  flour. 
Half  pound  of  best  fresh  butter,  washed. 
A  little  cold  water. 

This  will  make  puff-paste  for  two  Pud- 
dings, or  for  one  soup-plate  Pie,  or 
for  four  small  Shells. 

Weigh  half  a  pound  and  two  ounces  of 
flour,  and  sift  it  through  a  hair-sieve  into 
a  large  deep  dish.  Take  out  about  one 
fourth  of  the  flour,  and  lay  it  aside  on  one 
corner  of  your  paste-board,  to  roll  and 
sprinkle  with. 

Wash,  in  cold  water,  half  a  pound  of 
the  best  fresh  butter.     Squeeze  it  hard  with 

J 'Our  hands,  and  make  it  up  into  a  round 
ump.  Divide  it  in  four  equal  parts ;  lay 
them  on  one  side  of  your  paste-board,  and 
have  ready  a  glass  of  cold  water. 

Cut  one  of  the  four  pieces  of  butter  into 
the  pan  of  flour.  Cut  it  as  small  as  possi- 
ble. Wet  it  gradually  with  a  very  little 
water  (too  much  water  will  make  it  tough) 
and  mix  it  well  with  the  point  of  a  large 
case-knife.  Do  not  touch  it  with  your 
hands.  When  the  dough  gets  into  a  lump, 
sprinkle  on  the  middle  of  the  board  some 
of  the  flour  that  you  laid  aside,  and  lay  the 
dough  upon  it,  turning  it  out  of  the  pan 
with  the  knife. 

Rub  the  rolling-pin  with  flour,  and  sprin- 
kle a  little  on  the  lump  of  paste.  Roll  it 
out  thin,  quickly,  and  evenly,  pressing  on 
the  rolling-pin  very  lightly.  Then  take 
the  second  of  the  four  pieces  of  butter,  and, 
with  the  point  of  your  knife,  stick  it  in 
little  bits  at  equal  distances  all  over  the 
sheet  of  paste.  Sprinkle  on  some  flour, 
and  fold  up  the  dough.  Flour  the  paste- 
board and  rolling-pin  again  ;  throw  a  little 
flour  on  the  paste  and  roll  it  out  a  second 
time.  Stick  the  third  piece  of  butter  all 
over  it  in  little  bits.  Throw  on  some  flour, 
fold  up  the  paste,  sprinkle  a  little  more 
flour  on  the  dough,  and  on  the  rolling-pin, 
and  roll  it  out  a  third  time,  always  pressing 
on  it  lightly.  Stick  it  over  with  the  fourth 
and  last  piece  of  butler.  Throw  on  a  little 
more  flour,  fold  up  the  paste  and  then  roll 
it  out  in  a  large  round  sheet.  Cut  off"  the 
sides,  so  as  to  make  the  sheet  of  a  square 
form,  and  lay  the  slips  of  dough  upon  the 
square  sheet.  Fold  it  up  with  the  small 
pieces  of  trimmings,  in  the  inside.  Score 
or  notch  it  a  little  with  the  knife;  lay  it 
on  a  plate  and  set  it  away  in  a  cool  place, 
but  not  where  it  can  freeze,  as  that  will 
make  it  heavy. 

Having  made  tlie  paste,  prepare  and  mix 


your  pudding  or  pie.  When  the  mixture 
is  finished,  bring  out  your  paste,  flour  the 
board  and  rolling-pin,  and  roll  it  out  with 
a  short  quick  stroke,  and  pressing  the  rol- 
ling-pin rather  harder  than  while  you  w^le 
putting  the  butter  in.  If  the  paste  rises  in 
blisters,  it  will  be  light,  unless  .spoiled  in 
baking. 

Then  cut  the  sheet  m  half,  fold  up  each 
piece  and  roll  them  out  once  more,  separ- 
ately, in  round  sheets  the  size  of  your  plate«  j 
Press  on  rather  harder,  but  not  too  hard. 
Roll  the  sheets  thinnest  in  the  middle  and 
thickest  at  the  edges.  If  intended  for  pud- 
dings, lay  them  in  buttered  soup-plates,  and 
trim  them  evenly  round  the  edges.  If  the 
edges  do  not  appear  thick  enough,  you  may 
take  the  trimmings,  put  them  all  together, 
roll  them  out,  and  having  cut  them  in  slips 
the  breadth  of  the  rim  of  the  plate,  lay 
them  all  round  to  make  the  paste  thicker 
at  the  edges,  joining  them  nicely  and  even- 
ly, as  every  patch  or  crack  will  appear  dis- 
tinctly when  baked.  Notch  the  rim  hand- 
somely with  a  very  sharp  knife.  Fill  the 
dish  with  the  mixture  of  the  pudding,  and 
bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  The  paste 
should  be  of  a  light  brown  color.  If  the 
oven  is  too  slow,  it  will  be  soft  and  clammy ;  , 
if  too  quick,  it  will  not  have  time  to  rise 
as  high  as  it  ought  to  do. 

In  making  the  best  puff-paste,  try  to  avoid 
using  more  flour  to  sprinkle  and  roll  with, 
than  the  small  portion  which  you  have  laid 
aside  for  that  purpose  at  the  beginning.  . 
If  you  make  the  dough  too  soft  at  first,  by 
using  too  much  water,  it  will  be  sticky,  and 
require  more  flour,  and  will  eventually  be 
tough  when  baked.  Do  not  put  your  hands 
to  it,  as  their  warmth  will  injure  it.  Use 
the  knife  instead.  Always  roll  from  you 
rather  than  to  you,  and  press  lightly  on  the 
rolling-pin,  except  at  the  last. 


It  is  difficult  to  make  puff-paste  in  the 
summer,  unless  in  a  cellar,  or  very  cool 
room,  find  on  a  marble  table.  The  butter 
should,  if  possible,  be  washed  the  night 
before,  and  kept  covered  with  ice  till  you 
use  it  next  day.  The  water  should  have 
ice  in  it,  and  the  butter  should  be  iced  as  it 
sets  on  the  paste-board.  After  the  paste  is 
mixed,  it  should  be  put  in  a  covered  dish, 
and  set  in  cold  water  till  you  are  ready  to 
give  it  the  last  rolling. 

With  all  these  precautions  to  prevent  its 
being  heavy,  it  will  not  rise  as  well,  or  be 
in  any  respect  as  good  as  in  cold  weather. 

The  handsomest  way  of  ornamenting  the 
edge  of  a  pie  or  pudding  is  to  cut  the  rim 
in  large  square  notches,  and  then  fold  over' 
triangularly  one  corner  of  every  notch. 


PIES  AND  TARTS. 


COMMON  PASTE  FOR  PIES. 

'¥■■  ■ 

^'il  pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour. 
Three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  washed. 

This  will  make  one  large  pie  or  two  small 
ones. 

Sift  the  flour  into  a  pan.  Cut  the  butler 
into  two  equal  parts.  Cut  one  half  of  the 
butter  into  the  flour,  and  cut  it  up  as  small 
as  possible.  Mix  it  well  with  the  flour, 
wetting  it  gradually  with  a  little  cold 
water. 

Spread  some  flour  on  your  paste-board, 
take  the  luuip  of  paste  out  of  the  pan, 
flour  your  rolling-pin,  and  roll  outtlie  paste 
into  a  large  sheet.  Then  stick  it  over  with 
the  remaining  half  of  the  butter  in  small 
pieces,  and  laid  at  equal  distances.  Tluow 
on  a  little  flour,  fold  up  the  sheet  of  paste, 


flour  it  slightly,  and  roll  it  out  again. 
Then  fold  it  up,  and  cut  it  in  half  or  in 
four,  according  to  the  size  of  your  pies- 
Roll  it  out  into  round  sheets  the  size  of 
your  pie-plates,  pressing  rather  hai'der  on 
the  rolling-pin. 

Butter  your  pie-plates,  lay  on  your  under 
crust,  and  trim  the  edge.  Fill  the  dish 
witli  the  ingredients  of  which  the  pie  is 
composed,  and  lay  on  the  lid,  in  which  you 
must  prick  some  holes,  or  cut  a  small  slit 
in  tiie  top»  Crimp  the  edges  with  a  sharp 
knife. 

Heap  up  the  ingredients  so  that  the  pie 
will  be  highest  in  the  middle. 

Some  think  it  makes  common  paste  more 
crisp  and  ligiit,  to  beat  it  hard  on  both  sides 
with  the  rolling-pin,  after  you  give  it  the 
first  rolling,  when  all  the  butter  is  in. 

If  the  butter  is  very  fresh,  you  may  mix 
vyith,  the  flour  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt.. 


PIES  AND  TARTS. 


MINCE  PIES. 

Two  pounds  of  boiled  beef's  heart,  or  fresh 
tongue,  or  lean  fresh  beef — chopped  when 
cold. 

Two  pounds  of  beef  suet,  chopped  fine. 

Four  pounds  of  pippin  apples,  chopped. 

Two  pounds  of  raisins,  stoned  and  chopped. 

Two  pounds  of  currants,  picked,  washed, 
and  dried. 

Two  pounds  of  powdered  sugar. 

One  quart  of  white  wine. 

One  quart  of  brandy. 

One  wine-glass  of  rose-water» 

Two  grated  nutmegs. 

Half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon         ^ 

A  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cloves  >  powdered. 

A  (juarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace  * 

A  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  large  oranges. 

Half  a  pound  of  citron,  cut  in  slips. 

Parboil  a  beef's  heart, or  a  fre.sh  tongue. 
After  you  have  taken  off  the  skin  and  fat, 
weigh  two  pounds.  When  it  is  colJ,cliop 
it  very  fine.  Take  the  inside  of  the  suet; 
weigh  two  pounds,  and  cliop  it  as  fine  as 
possible.  Mix  the  meat  and  suet  togetiier, 
adding  the  salt.  Pare,  c<jre,  an<l  clioj)  the 
apples,  and  then  stone  and  chop  the  raisins. 
Having  prepared  die  curi>ants,  add  them  to 
the  other  fruit,  and  mix  the- fruit  with  the 
meat  and  suet.  Put  in  the  sugai^and  spice, 
and  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  the  oranges. 
Wet  the  whole  with  the  rose  water  and 
liquor,  and  mix  all  well  together. 


Do  not  put  in  the  citron  till  you  are  filP- 
ing  the  pies:  then  lay  it  on  the  top. 

Make  the  paste,  allowing  for  each  pie, 
half  a  pound  of  butter  and  three  quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour.  Make  it  in  the 
same  manner  as  puff-paste,  but  it  will  not 
be  (juite  so  rich..  Lay  a.slieet  of  paste  all 
over  a  soup-plale.  Fill  it  with  mince-meat, 
laying  slips  of  citron  on  the  top.  Rollout 
a  sheet  of  paste,  for  the  lid  of  the  pie. 
Put  it  on,  and. crimp  the  edges  with  a  knife. 
Prick  holes  in  the  lid. 

Bake  the  pies  half'  an  hour  in  a  brisk 
oven.  — 

Keep  your  ujince  meat  in  a  jar  tightly 
covered.  Set  it  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  and 
occasionally  add  more  brandy  to  it. 

Instead  of  the  heart  or  tongue,  you  may, 
if  you  choose,,  use  part  of  a  round  of  fresh 
beef.. 


OYSTER  PIE. 

A  iiuiidred.  largo  fresh  oysters,  or  more  if 

small. 
T!ie  yolks  of  six  eggs  boiled  hard. 
A  large  slice  of  stale-bread,  grated-.. 
A  tea-.spoonfid  of  salt. 
A  table-spoonful  of  pepper. 
A  table-spoonlul  of  mixed  spice,  nutmeg,. 

mace  and  cinnamon. 

Take  a  large  round  dish,  butter  it,  and 
spread  a  rich  paste  over  the  sides,  aad 
round  the  edge,  but  not  at  the  bottom. 


6 


PIES  AND  TARTS. 


Salt  oysters  will  not  do  for  pies.  They 
should  be  fresh,  and  as  large  and  fine  as 
possible. 

Drain  off  part  of  the  liquor  from  the 
oysters.  Put  them  into  a  pan,  and  season 
them  with  pepper,  salt  and  spice.  Stir 
them  well  with  the  seasoning.  Have  ready 
the  yolks  of  eggs,  chopped  fine,  and  the 
grated  bread.  Pour  the  oystei's  (with  as 
much  of  their  liquor  as  you  please)  into 
the  dish  that  has  the  paste  in  it.  Strew 
over  them  the  chopped  egg  and  grated 
bread. 

Roll  out  the  lid  of  the  pie,  and  put  it  on, 
crimping  the  edges  handsomely. 

Take  a  small  sheet  of  paste,  cut  it  into 
a  square  and  roll  it  up.  Cut  it  with  a 
sharp  knife  into  the  form  of  a  double  tulip. 

Make  a  slit  in  the  centre  of  the  upper 
crust,  and  stick  the  tulip  in  it. 

Cut  out  eight  large  leaves  of  paste,  and 
lay  them  on  the  lid. 

Bake  the  pie  in  a  (juick  oven. 

If  you  think  the  oysters  will  be  too  much 
done  by  baking  them  in  the  crust,  you  can 
substitute  for  them,  pieces  of  bread,  to  keep 
up  the  lid  of  the  pie. 

Put  the  oysters  with  their  liquor  and  the 
seasoning,  chopped  egg,  grated  bread,  &c. 
into  a  pan.  Cover  them  closely,  and  let 
them  just  come  to  a  boil,  taking  them  off' 
the  fire,  and  stirring  them  frequently. 

When  the  ciust  is  baked,  take  the  lid 
neatly  off  (loosening  it  round  the  edge  with 
a  knife)  take  out  the  pieces  of  bread,  and 
put  in  the  oysters.  Lav  the  lid  on  again 
very  carefully. 

For  oyster  patties,  the  oysters  are  pre- 
pared in  tlie  same  manner. 

They  may  be  chopped  if  you  choose. 
They  must  be  put  in  small  shells  of  pufF- 
paste. 


OYSTER  PATTIES. 

Make  some  rich  puff-paste,  and  bake  it 
in  very  small  tin  patty  pans.  When  cool, 
turn  them  out  upon  a  large  dish. 

Stew  some  large  fresh  oysters  with  a  ft;w 
cloves,  a  little  mace  and  nutmeg,  some  yolk 
of  egg  boiled  hard  and  grated,  a  little  but- 
ter, and  as  much  of  the  oyster  li<juor  as 
will  cover  them.  Whcii  they  have  stewed 
a  little  while,  take  them  out  of  the  ])an, 
and  set-  them  away  to  cool.  W'hen  quite 
cold,  lay  two  or  three  oysters  in  each  shell 
of  puff-paste. 


FRUIT  PIES. 

Fruit  pies  for  family  use,  are  generally 
made  with  common  paste,  allowing  three 


quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  flour. 

Peaches  and  plums,  for  pies,  should  be 
cut  in  half,  and  the  stones  taken  out. 
Cherries  also  should  be  stoned,  and  red 
cherries  only  should  be  used  for  pies. 

Apples  should  be  cut  into  very  thin  slices, 
and  aie  much  improved  by  a  little  lemon- 
peel.  Sweet  apples  are  not  good  for  pies, 
as  they  are  very  insipid  when  baked,  and 
seldom  get  thoroughly  done.  If  green 
apples  are  used,  they  should  first  be  slewed 
in  as  little  water  as  possible,  and  made 
very  sweet. 

Apples,  stewed  previous  to  baking,  should 
not  be  done  till  they  break,  but  only  till 
they  arc  tender.  They  should  then  be 
drained  in  a  cullender,  and  chopped  fine 
with  a  knife  or  the  edge  of  a  spoon. 

In  making  pies  of  juicy  fruit,  it  is  a  good 
way  to  set  a  small  tea-cup  on  the  bottom 
crust,  and  lay  the  fruit  all  round  it.  The 
juice  will  collect  under  the  cup,  and  not 
run  out  at  the  edges  or  top  of  the  pie. 
The  fruit  should  be  mixed  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  sugar,  and  piled  up  in  the  mid- 
dle, so  as  to  make  the  pie  highest  in  the 
centre.  The  upper  crust  should  be  pricked 
with  a  fork, or  have  a  slit  cut  in  the  middle. 
The  edges  should  be  nicely  crimped  with  a 
knife. 

Dried  peaches,  dried  apples,  and  cran- 
berries should  be  stewed  with  a  very  little 
water,  and  allowed  to  get  quite  cold  before 
they  are  put  into  die  pie.  If  stewed  fruit 
is  put  in  warm,  it  will  make  the  paste  heavy. 

if  your  pies  aie  made  in  the  foi-m  of 
shells,  or  without  lids,  the  fruit  should  al- 
ways be  stewed  first,  or  it  will  not  he  suf- 
ficiently done,  as  the  shells  (which  should 
be  of  puff-paste)  nnist  not  bake  so  long  as 
coveied  pies. 

Shells  intended  for  sweetmeats,  must  b^' 
baked  empty,  and  the  fruit  put   into  them 
before  they  go  lo  table. 

Fruit  pics  witii  lids,  should  have  loaf- 
sugar  grated  over  them.  If  they  have 
been  baked  the  day  bef  )re,  tliey  should  be 
warmed  in  the  stove,  or  near  the  fire,  be- 
fore they  are  sent  to  table,  to  soften  the 
crust,  and  make  them  taste  fresh. 

Ra>pberry  and  apple-pies  are  much  im- 
proved by  taking  oil"  the  lid,  and  pouring 
in  a  little  cream,  just  before  they  go  to  ta- 
ble.    Replace  the  lid  very  carefully. 


PliS'E-APPLE  TART. 

One  large  pine-apple,  or  two  small  ones. 
Half  a  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
Half  a  pint  of  cream. 

Pare  your   pine-apple,    cut    it  in  small 
pieces,  and  leave  out  the  core.     Mix  the 


PUDDINGS. 


pine-apple  with  the  sugar,  and  set  it  away 
in  a  covered  dish  till  sulBcient  juice  is 
drawn  out  to  stew  the  fruit  in. 

Make  and  bake  two  shells  of  puff-paste 
in  soup-plates. 

Stew  the  pine-apple  in  the  sugar  and 
juice  till  quite  soft;  then  mash  it  to  a  mar- 
malade with  the  back  of  a  spoon,  and  set 
it  away  to  cool. 

Wlieii  tlie  shells  are  baked  and  cool, 
mix  the  pine-apple  with  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  and  fill  the  shells  with  it.  Grate 
loaf-sugar  over  the  top. 

These  tarts  are  very  fine. 

If  your  pine-apple  is  not  of  the  largest 
size,  one  will  not  be  sufficient  for  two 
tarts. 


PEACH  TART. 

Take  ripe  juicy  free-stone  peaches,  pare 
them,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces;  of 
course  leave  out  the  stones,  half  of  which 
must  be  cracked,  and  the  kernels  blanched 
and  mixed  with  the  peaches.  Mix  in  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  sugar  to  make  them 
very  sweet,  and  set  the  peaches  away  till 
tlie  sugar  draws  out  the  juice.  Then 
stew  them  (without  water)  till  quite  soft. 
Take  them  out,  mash  them  with  the  back 
of  a  spoon,  and  set  them  away  to  cool. 

Have  ready  some  shells  of  fine  puff-paste, 
baked  of  a  light  brown.  When  cool,  put 
the  peaches  into  the  shells;  having  first 
mixed  the  stewed  fruit  with  some  cream. 
Grate  white  sugar  over  lliem. 

You  may  substitute  for  the  kernels  a 
handful  of  fresh  peach-leaves,  stewed  with 
the  fruit  and  then  taken  out.  The  kernels 
or  leaves  will  greatly  improve  the  flavor  of 
tlie  peaches. 


Peach-leaves  may  be  kept  fresh  in  water 
for  two  or  tliree  days. 


BEEF-STEAK  PIE. 

Butter  a  deep  dish,  and  spread  a  sheet 
of  paste  all  over  the  bottom,  sides,  and 
edge. 

Cut  away  from  your  beef-steak  all  the 
bone,  fat,  gristle,  and  skin.  Cut  the  lean 
in  small  thin  pieces,  about  as  large,  gener- 
ally, as  the  palm  of  your  hand.  Beat  the 
meat  well  with  the  rolling-pin,  to  make  it 
juicy  and  tender.  If  you  put  in  the  fat,  it 
will  make  the  gravy  too  greasy  and  strong, 
as  it  cannot  be  skimmed. 

Put  a  layer  of  meat  over  the  bottom- crust 
of  your  dish,  and  season  it  to  your  taste, 
with  pepper,  salt,  and,  if  you  choose,  a 
little  nutmeg.  A  small  quantity  of  mush- 
room ketchup  is  an  improvement  j  so  also, 
is  a  little  minced  onion. 

Have  ready  some  cold  boiled  potatoes 
sliced  thin.  Spread  over  the  meat  a  layer 
of  potatoes,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter; 
then  another  layer  of  meat,  seasoned,  and 
then  a  layer  of  potatoes,  and  so  on  till  the 
dish  is  full  and  heaped  up  in  the  middle, 
having  a  layer  of  meat  on  the  top.  Pour 
in  a  little  water. 

Cover  the  pie  with  a  sheet  of  paste,  and 
trim  the  edges.  Notch  it  handsomely  with 
a  knife;  and,  if  you  choose,  make  a  tulip 
of  paste,  and  stick  it  in  the  middle  of  the 
lid,  and  lay  leaves  of  paste  round  it. 

Fresh  oysters  will  greatly  improve  a 
beef-steak  pie.     So  also  will  mushrooms. 

Any  meat  pie  may  be  made  in  a  similar 
manner. 


PUDDINGS. 


PLUM  PUDDING. 

One  pound  of  raisins,  stoned  and  cut  in 

half. 
One  pound  of  currants,  picked,  washed  and 

dried. 
One  p<^)und  of  beef  suet  chopped  fine. 
One  pound  of  grated  stale  bread,  or,  half  a 

pound  of  fiour  and  half  a  pound  of  bread. 
Eight  eggs. 
One  pound  of  sugar. 
A  glass  of  brandy. 
A  pint  of  milk. 
A  glass  of  wine. 


Two  nutmegs,  grated. 

A  table-spoonful  of  mixed  cinnamon  and 

mace. 
A  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

You  must  prepare  all  your  ingredients 
the  day  before  (except  beating  the  eggs) 
that  in  the  morning  you  may  have  nothing 
to  do  but  to  mix  thein,  as  the  pudding  will 
re(|uire  six  hours  to  boil. 

Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  then  put  to  them 
half  the  milk  and  beat  both  together.  Stir 
in  gradually  the  flour  and  grated  bread. 
Next  add  the  sugar  by  degrees.     Then  the 


PUDDINGS. 


suet  and  fruit  alternately.  The  fruit  must 
be  well  sprinkled  with  flour,  lest  it  sink  to 
the  bottom.  Stir  very  hard.  Then  add 
the  spice  and  liquor,  and  lastly  the  remain- 
der of  the  milk.  Stir  the  whole  mixture 
very  well  together.  If  it  is  not  thick 
enough,  add  a  little  more  grated  bread  or 
flour.  If  there  is  too  much  bread  or  flour, 
tlie  pudding  will  be  hard  and  heavy. 

Dip  your  pudding-cloth,  in  boiling  water, 
shake  it  out  and  sprinkle  it  slightly  with 
flour.  Lay  it  in  a  pan  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  the  cloth.  Tie  it  up  carefully, 
allowing  room  for  the  pudding  to  swell. 

Boil  it  six  hours,  and  turn  it  carefully 
out  of  the  cloth. 

Before  you  send  it  to  table,  have  ready 
some  blanched  sweet  almonds  cut  in  slips, 
or  some  slips  of  citron,  or  both.  Stick 
them  all  over  the  outside  of  the  pudding. 

Eat  it  with  wine,  or  with  a  sauce  made 
of  drawn  butter,  wine  and  nutmeg. 

The  pudding  will  be  improved  if  you  add 
to  the  other  ingredients,  the  grated  rind  of 
a  large  lemon  or  orange. 


LEMON  PUDDING. 

One  small  lemon,  with  a  smooth  thin  rind. 
Three  eggs. 

A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
A  quarter  pound  of  fresh  butter — washed. 
A  table-spoonful  of  white  wine  and  brandy, 

mixed. 
A  tea-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

Five  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  for  die  paste. 

Grate  the  yellow  part  of  the  rind  of  a 
small  fresh  lemon.  Then  cut  the  lemon  in 
half,  and  squeeze  the  juice  into  ihe  plate 
that  contains  the  gi-ated  rind,  carefully  tak- 
ing out  all  the  seeds.  Mix  the  juice  and 
rind  together. 

Put  a  (juarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered 
white  sugar  into  a  deep  earthen  j)an,  and 
cut  up  in  it  a  quarter  of  a  ])ouud  of  the 
best  fresh  butter.  If  the  weather  is  very 
cold,  set  the  pan  near  the  fire,  for  a  few 
uiinutes,  to  soften  the  l)Mtter,  but  do  not 
allow  it  to  melt  or  it  will  lie  lieavy.  Stir 
the  butter  and  sugar  togedicr,  with  a  stick 
or  wooden  sjioon,  till  it  is  perfectly  light 
and  of  the  consistence  of  cream. 

Put  the  eggs  in  a  shallow  broad  pan,  and 
beat  them  with  an  egg-boater  or  rods,  till 
they  are  (juite  smooth,  and  as  thick  as  a 
boiled  custard.  Then  stir  the  eggs,  grad- 
ually, into  tlie  pan  of  butler  and  sugar. 
Add  the  liquor  and  rose-water  by  degrees, 
and  then  stir  in,  gradually,  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  the  lemon.  Stir  the  whole 
very  hard,  after  all  the  ingredients  are  in. 


Have  ready  a  puff-paste  made  of  Ave 
ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter.  The  paste  must  be 
made  with  as  little  water  as  possible.  Roll 
it  out  in  a  circular  sheet,  thin  in  the  centre, 
and  thicker  towards  the  edges,  and  just 
large  enough  to  cover  the  bottom,  sides, 
and  edges  of  a  soup-plate.  Butter  the 
soup-plate  very  well,  and  lay  the  paste  in 
it,  making  it  neat  and  eveii  round  the  broad 
edge  of  the  plate.  With  a  sharp  knife, 
trim  off  the  superfluous  dough,  and  notch 
the  edges.  Put  in  the  mixture  with  a 
spoon,  and  bake  the  pudding  about  half  an 
hour,  in  a  moderate  oven.  It  should  be 
baked  of  a  very  light  brown.  If  the  oven 
is  too  hot,  the  paste  will  not  have  time  to 
rise  well.  If  too  cold,  it  will  be  clammy. 
When  the  pudding  is  cool,  grate  loaf  sugar 
over  it. 

Before  using  lemons  for  any  purpose, 
always  roll  them  awhile  with  your  hand  on 
a  table.  This  will  cause  them  to  yield  a 
larger  quantity  of  juice. 


ALMOND  PUDDING. 

Half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  which  will 

be  reduced  to  a  quarter  of  a  pound,  when 

shelled  and  blanched. 
An  ounce  of  blanched  bitter  almonds   or 

peach-kernels. 
The  whites  only,  of  six  eggs. 
A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter. 
A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
A  table-spoonful  of  mixed  brandy,   wine, 

and  rose-water. 

Shell  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds, 
and  pour  scalding  water  over  thpm,  which 
will  make  the  skins  peal  ofl'.  As  they  get 
cool,  pour  more  boiling  water,  till  the  al- 
monds are  all  blanched.  Blanch  also  the 
bitter  almonds.  As  you  blanch  the  almonds, 
throw  them  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water. 
Then  take  them  out,  one  by  one,  wipe  them 
dry  in  a  clean  towel,  and  lay  them  on  u 
plate.  Pound  them  one  at  a  lime  to  a  fine 
paste,  in  a  marble  mortar,  adding,  as  you 
pound  them,  a  few  drops  of  rose-water  to 
prevent  their  oiling.  Pound  the  bitter  and 
s^veot  almonds  alternately,  that  they  may 
be  well  mixed.  They  must  be  made  per- 
fectly fine  and  smooth,  and  are  the  better 
for  being  jnepared  the  day  Ixjfbre  they  are 
wanted  lor  the  pudding. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and 
add  to  it,  gradually,  the  licjuor. 

Beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  till  they  stand 
alone.  Stir  the  almonds  and  white  of  eggs, 
alternately,  into  the  butter  and  sugar;  and 
then  stir  the  whole  well  together. 

Have  ready  a  puff-paste  suflicient  for  a 
soup-plate.     Butter  the  pkite,  lay  on  the 


PUDDINGS. 


9 


paste,  trim  and  notch  it.  Then  put  in  the 
mixture. 

Bake  it  about  half  an  hour  in  a  modei-- 
ate  oven. 

Grate  loaf-sugar  over  it. 


ORANGE   PUDDING. 

One  large  orange,  of  a  deep  color,  and 

smooth  thin  rind. 
One  lime. 

A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter. 
Three  eggs. 

A  table-spoonful  of  mixed  wine  and  brandy. 
A  tea-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

Grate  the  yellow  rind  of  the  orange  and 
lime,  and  squeeze  the  juice  into  a  saucer  or 
soup-plate,  taking  out  all  the  seeds. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream. 

Beat  the  eggs  as  light  as  possible,  and 
then  stir  them  by  degrees  into  the  pan  of 
butter  and  sugar.  Add,  gradually,  the  li- 
quor and  rose-water,  and  then  by  degrees, 
the  orange  and  lime.  Stir  all  w^ll  to- 
getiier. 

Have  ready  a  sheet  of  puff-paste  made 
of  five  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter.  Lay  the  paste 
in  a  buttered  soup-plate.  Trim  and  notch 
the  edges,  and  then  put  in  the  mixture. 
Bake  it  about  half  an  hour,  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Grate  loaf-sugar  over  it,  before  you 
Bend  it  to  table. 


COCOA-NUT  PUDDING. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cocoa-nut,  grated. 
A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
Three  ounces  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter. 
The  whites  only  of  six  eggs. 
A  table-spoonful  of  wine  and  brandy  mixed. 
Half  a  tea-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

Break  up  a  cocoa-nut,  and  take  the  thin 
brown  skin  carefully  off,  with  a  knife. 
Wash  all  the  pieces  in  cold  water,  and 
then  wipe  them  dry,  with  a  clean  towel. 
Weigh  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cocoa-nut, 
and  grate  it  very  fine,  into  a  soup-plate. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and 
add  the  liquor  and  rose-water  gradually  to 
them. 

Beat  the  whites  only,  of  six  eggs,  till 
they  stand  alone  on  the  rods;  and  then  stir 
the  beaten  white  of  egg,  gradually,  into 
the  bqtter  and  sugar.  Afterwards,  sprinkle 
in^  by  degrees,  the  grated  cocoa-nut,  stirring 
hard  all  the  time.  Then  stir  all  very  well 
at  the  last. 

Have  ready  a  puff-paste,  sufficient  to 


cover  the  bottom,  sides,  and  edges  of  a 
soup-plate.  Put  in  the  mixture,  and  bake 
it  in  a  moderate  oven,  about  half  an 
hour. 

Grate  loaf-sugar  over  it,  when  cool. 


SWEET  POTATO  PUDDING. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  boiled  sweet  potato. 
Three  eggs. 

A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter. 
A  glass  of  mixed  wine  and  brandy. 
A  half-glass  of  rose-water. 
A  tea-spoonful   of  mixed   spice,   nutmeg, 
mace  and  cinnamon. 

Pound  the  spice,  allowing  a  smaller  pro- 
portion of  mace  than  of  nutmeg  and  cin- 
namon. 

Boil  and  peal  some  sweet  potatoes,  and 
when  they  are  cold,  weigh  a  quarter  of  a 
pound.  Mash  the  sweet  potato  very 
smooth,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Stir 
the  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream. 

Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and  stir  them 
into  the  butter  and  sugar,  alternately  with 
the  sweet  potato.  Add  by  degrees  the  li- 
quor, rose-water  and  spice.  Stir  all  very 
hard  together. 

Spread  pufll'-paste  on  a  soup-plate.  Put 
in  the  mixture,  and  bake  it  about  half  an 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven, 

Grate  sugar  over  it. 


PUMPKIN  PUDDING. 

Half  a  pound  of  stewed  pumpkin. 

Three  eggs. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  or  a 

pint  of  cream. 
A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  surar. 
Half  a  glass  of  wine  and  brandy  mixed. 
Half  a  glass  of  rose-water. 
A  tea-spoonful  of  mixed   spice,   nutmeg, 

mace  and  cinnamon. 

Stew  some  pumpkin  with  as  little  water 
as  possible.  Drain  it  in  a  cullender,  and 
press  it  till  dry.  When  cold,  weigh  half  a 
pound,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve.  Pro- 
pare  the  spice.  Stir  together  the  sugar, 
and  butter,  or  cream,  till  they  are  perfectly 
light.  Add  to  them,  gradually,  the  spice 
and  liquor. 

Beat  three  eggs  very  light,  and  stir  them 
into  the  butter  and  sugar  alternately  with 
the  pumpkin. 

Cover  a  soup-plate  with  puff-pagte,  and 
put  in  the  mixture.  Bake  it  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  (tbout  half  an  hour. 

Grate  sugar  over  it,  when  cool, 


10 


PUDDINGS. 


Iniitead  of  the  butter,  you  may  boil  a  pint 
of  milk  or  cream,  and  when  cold,  stir  into 
it  in  turn  the  sugar,  eggs,  and  pumpkin. 


GOOSEBERRY  PUDDING. 

A  pint  of  stewed  gooseberries,  with  all  their 

juice. 
A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 
Two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 
Two  ounces  of  grated  bread. 
Three  eggs. 

Stew  the  gooseberries  till  quite  soft. 
When  they  ai-e  cold,  mash  them  fine  with 
the  back  of  a  spoon,  and  stir  into  them  two 
ounces  of  sugar.  Take  two  ounces  more 
of  sugar,  and  stir  it  to  a  cream  with  two 
ounces  of  butter. 

Grate  very  fine,  as  much  stale  bread  as 
will  weigh  two  ounces. 

Beat  three  eggs,  and  stir  them  into  the 
butter  and  sugar,  in  turn  witli  the  goose- 
berries and  bread. 

Lay  puff-paste  in  a  soup-plate.  Put  in 
tlie  mixture,  and  bake  it  half  an  hour. 

Do  not  grate  sugar  over  it. 


BAKED  APPLE  PUDDING. 

A  pint  of  stewed  apples. 

Half  a  pint  of  cream,  or  two  ounces  of  butter. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

A  nutmeg,  grated. 

A  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  grated  lemon-peel. 

Stew  your  apple  in  as  little  water  as  pos- 
sible, and  not  long  enough  for  the  pieces  to 
break  and  lose  their  shape.  Put  them  in 
a  cullender  to  drain,  and  mash  them  with 
the  back  of  a  spoon.  If  stewed  too  long, 
and  in  too  much  water,  they  will  lose  their 
flavor.  When  cold,  mix  with  them  the 
nutmeg,  rose-water,  and  lemon-peel,  and 
two  ounces  of  sugar.  Stir  tlie  other  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  with  the  butter  or  cream, 
and  then  mix  it  gradually  with  the  apple. 

Bake  it  in  pulT-paste,  in  a  soup-dish, 
about  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Do  not  sugar  the  top. 


BATTER  PUDDING. 

Six  eggs. 

One  pound  of  sifted  flour. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

A  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

Stir  the  flour,  gradually,  into  tlie  milk 
carefully  dissolving  all  the   lumps.    Beat 


the  eggs  very  light,  and  add  them  by  de- 
grees to  the  milk  and  flour.  Put  in  the 
salt,  and  stir  the  whole  well  together. 

Take  a  very  thick  pudding-cloth.  Dip 
it  in  boiling  water,  and  flour  it.  Pour  into 
it  the  mixture  and  tie  it  up,  leaving  room 
for  it  to  swell.  Boil  it  hard,  one  hour,  and 
keep  it  in  the  pot,  till  it  is  time  to  send  it 
to  table.     Serve  it  up  with  wine-sauce. 

A  square  cloth,  which  when  tied  up  will, 
make  the  pudding  of  a  round  form,  is  bet- 
ter than  a  bag.  > 

Apple  Batter  Pudding  is  made  by  pour- 
ing the  batter  over  a  dish  of  pippins,  pared, 
cored,  and  sweetened,  either  whole  or  cut 
in  pieces.  Bake  it,  and  eat  it  with  butter 
and  sugar. 


INDIAN   PUDDING. 

A  pound  of  beef-suet,  chopped  very  fine. 

A  piiit  of  molasses. 

A  pint  of  rich  milk. 

Four  eggs. 

A  large  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  nutmeg 

and  cinnamon. 
A  little  grated  or  chipped  lemon-peel. 
Indian  meal  sufficient  to  make  a  thick  batter^^. 

Warm  the  milk  and  molasses,  and  stir 
them  together.  Beat  the  eggs,  and  stir 
them  gradually  into  the  jnilk  and  molasses, 
in  turn  with  the  suet  and  Indian  meal. 
Add  the  spice  and  lemon-jjeel,  and  stir  all 
very  hard  together  Take  care  not  to  put 
too  much  Indian  meal,  or  the  pudding  will 
be  heavy  and  solid. 

Dij)  the  cloth  in  boiling  water.  Shake 
it  out,  and  flour  it  slightly.  Pour  the  mix- 
ture into  it,  and  tie  it  up,  leaving  room  for 
the  pudding  to  swell.  Boil  it  three  hours. 
Serve  it  up  hot,  and  eat  it  with  sauce  made 
of  drawn  butter,  wine  and  nutmeg. 

When  cold,  it  is  very  good  cut  in  slices 
and  fried. 


BREAD  PUDDING. 

A  quarter  pound  of  grated  stale  bread. 
A  (juart  of  milk,  boiled  with  two  or  three 

sticks  of  cinnamon,  slightly  broken. 
Eight  eggs. 

A  (juarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 
A  little  grated  lemon- peel. 
Two  ounces  of  butter. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  cinnamon,  strain 
it,  and  set  it  away  till  quite  cold.  Mix 
the  butter  and  sugar. 

Grate  as  much  crumb  of  stale-bread  aa 
will  weigh  a  quarter  of  a  pound.    Beat 


PUDDINGS. 


11 


'the  eggs,  and  when  the  milk  is  cold,  stir 
them  into  it,  in  turn  with  the  bread  and 
sugar.  Add  the  lemon-peel,  and  if  you 
choose  a  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

Bake  it  in  a  buttered  dish,  and  grate 
nutmeg  over  it  when  done.  Do  not  send 
it  to  table  hot.  Baked  puddings  should 
never  be  eaten  till  they  have  become  cold, 
or  at  least  cool. 


RICE  PUDDING. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter. 
'■■  A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 
r'A  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  or  cream  and 

-  milk. 

•  "Six  eggs. 

-  A  tea-spoonful  of  mixed  spice,  mace,  nut- 

meg and  cinnamon. 
A  half  wine-glass  of  rose-water. 

Wash  the  rice.     Boil  it  till  very  soft. 

.  Drain  it,  and  set  it  away  to  get  cold.     Put 

tlie  butler  and  sugar  together  in  a  pan,  and 

•  stir  them  till  very  light.     Add  to  them  the 
'spice  and  rose-water.     Beat  the  eggs  very 

light,  and  stir  them,  gradually,   into    the 
milk.     Then  stir   the  eggs  and  milk  into 
the  butter  and  sugar,  alternately  with  the 
rice. 
-  Bake  it  and  grate  nutmeg  over  the  top. 

Currants  or  raisins,  floured,  and  stirred 
in  at  the  last,  will  greatly  improve  it. 

It  should  be  eaten  cold,  or  quite  cool. 


GROUND  RICE   PUDDING. 

Take  five  table-spoonfuls  of  ground  rice 
and  boil  it  in  a  quart  of  new  milk,  with  a 
grated  nutmeg  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  pow- 
dered cinnamon,  stirring  it  all  the  time. 
When  it  has  boiled,  pour  it  into  a  pan  and 
stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a 
tiutmeg  and  half  a  pint  of  cream.  Set  it 
away  to  get  cold.  Then  beat  eight  eggs, 
omitting  ihe  whites  of  four.  Have  ready 
a  half  pound  of  dried  currants  well  cleaned, 
and  sprinkled  with  flour;  stir  them  into 
the  mixture  alternately  with  the  beaten  egg. 
Add  half  a  glass  of  rose-water,  or  half  a 
glass  of  mixed  wine  and  brandy.  Butter 
a  deep  dish,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  bake 
it  of  a  pale  brown.  Or  you  may  bake  it 
in  sancers. 


CHICKEN  PUDDING. 


Cut 


and 


up  a  pair  of  young  chickenSj 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a 


little  mace  and  nutmeg.  Put  them  into  a 
pot  with  two  large  spoonfuls  of  butter,  and 
water  enough  to  cover  them.  Stew  them 
gently ;  and  when  about  half  cooked,  take 
them  out  and  set  them  away  to  cool.  Pour 
off  the  gravy,  and  reserve  it  to  be  served 
up  separately. 

In  the  meantime,  make  a  batter  as  if 
for  a  pudding,  of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour 
stirred  gradually  into  a  quart  of  milk,  six 
eggs  well  beaten  and  added  by  degrees  to 
the  mixture,  and  a  very  litlle  salt.  Put  a 
layer  of  chicken  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
dish,  and  pour  over  it  some  of  the  batter; 
then  another  layer  of  chicken,  and  then 
some  more  batter;  and  so  on  till  the  dish 
is  full,  having  a  cover  of  batter  at  the  top. 
Bake  it  till  it  is  brown.  Then  break  an 
egg  into  the  gravy  which  you  have  set 
away,  give  it  a  boil,  and  send  it  to  table  in 
a  sauce-boat  to  eat  with  the  pudding. 


BOSTON  PUDDING. 

Make  a  good  common  paste  with  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  flour,  and  three  quarters  of 
a  pound  of  butter.*  When  you  roll  it  out 
the  last  time,  cut  off"  the  edges,  till  you  get 
the  sheet  of  paste  of  an  even  square  shape. 

Have  ready  some  fruit  sweetened  to  your 
taste.  If  cranberries,  goosel^erries,  dried 
peaches,  or  damsons,  they  should  be  stew- 
ed, and  made  very  sweet.  If  apples,  they 
should  be  stewed  in  a  very  little  water, 
drained,  and  seasoned  with  nutmeg,  rose- 
water  and  lemon.  If  currants,  raspberries, 
or  blackberries,  they  should  be  mashed  with 
sugar,  and  put  into  the  pudding  raw. 

Spread  the  fruit  very  thick,  all  over  the 
sheet  of  paste,  (which  must  not  be  rolled 
out  too  thin.)  When  it  is  covered  all  over 
witli  the  fruit,  roll  it  up,  and  close  tlie 
dough  at  both  ends,  and  down  the  last  side. 
Tie  the  pudding  in  a  cloth  and  boil  it. 

Eat  it  with  sugar.  It  must  not  be  taken 
out  of  the  pot  till  just  before  it  is  brought 
to  table. 


FRITTERS. 

Seven  eggs. 

Half  a  pint  of  milk. 

A  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

Suflicient  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter. 

Beat  the  eggs  well  and  stir  them  gradu* 
ally  into  the  milk.     Add  the  salt,  and  stir 


*  Or  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  beef-raet, 
chopped  very  fine.  Mix  the  suet  at  once  with 
the  flour,  knead  it  with  cold  water  into  a  stiif 
dough,  and  then  roll  it  out  into  a  large  tbin 
sheet.    Fold  it  up  and  roll  it  again. 


22 


CUSTARDS,  CURDS,  AND  CREAMS. 


in  flour  enough  to  make   a  thick   batter. 
They  must  set  an  hour  to  rise. 

Fry  them  in  lard,  and  serve  them  up  hot. 
'  Eat  them  with  wine  and  sugar. 

They  are  improved  by  stirring  in  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  yeast. 

These  are  excellent  with  the  addition  of 
cold  stewed  apple,  stirred  into  the  mixture, 
in  which  case  use  less  flour. 

Oyster  Fritters  are  made  by  putting  a 
large  oyster  in  the  middle  of  each  fritter, 
while  frying.     They  are  very  fine. 


A  CHEESE-CAKE. 

Four  eggs. 

Half  a  pint  of  milk. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

Two  ounces  of  grated  bread. 

A  table-spoonful  of  mixed  brandy  and  wine. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

A   tea-spoonful    of  mace,    cinnamon,    and 

nutmeg,  mixed. 
A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants. 

Pick  the  currants  very  clean.  Wash 
them  through  a  colander,  wipe  them  in  a 
towel,  and  then  dry  them  on  a  dish  before 
the  fire. 

When  dry  take  out  a  few  to  scatter  over 
the  top  of  the  cheese-cake,  lay  tliem  aside. 


and  sprinkle  the  remainder  of  the  currants 
with  the  flour. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream. 
Grate  the  bread,  and  prepare  the  spice. 
Beat  the  eggs  very  light. 

Boil  the  milk.  When  it  comes  to  a  boil, 
add  to  it  half  the  beaten  egg,  and  boil  both 
together  till  it  becomes  a  curd,  stirring  it 
frequently  with  a  knife.  Then  throw  the 
grated  bread  on  the  curd,  and  stir  all  toge- 
ther. Then  take  the  milk,  egg,  and  bread 
off  the  fire,  and  stir  it,  gradually,  into  the 
butter  and  sugar.  Next,  stir  in  the  re- 
maining half  of  the  egg. 

Add,  by  degrees,, the  liquor  and  spice. 

Lastly,  stir  in,  gradually,  the  currants. 

Have  ready  a  pufl'-paste,  which  should 
be  made  before  you  prepare  the  cheese-cake, 
as  the  mixture  will  become  heavy  by  stand- 
ing. Before  you  put  it  into  the  oven,  scat- 
ter the  remainder  of  tlie  currants  over  the 
top. 

Bake  it  half  an  hour  in  rather  a  quick 
oven. 

Do  not  sugar  the  top. 

You  may  bake  it  eitlier  in  a  soup-plate, 
or  in  two  small  tin  patty-pans,  which,  for 
cheese-cakes,  should  be  of  a  square  shape. 
If  baked  in  square  patty-pans  leave  at  each 
side  a  flap  of  paste  in  the  shape  of  a  half- 
circle.  Cut  long  slits  in  these  flaps  and 
turn  them  over,  so  that  they  will  rest  on 
the  lop  of  the  mixture. 

You  can,  if  you  choose,  add  to  the  cur- 
rants a  few  I'aisins  stoned,  and  cut  in  half. 


CUSTARDS,  CURDS,  AND  CREAMS. 


FINE  CUSTARDS. 

A  quart  of  milk  or  cream. 
The  yolks  only,  of  sixteen  eggs. 
Six  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
Half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon,  broken  in  small 

pieces. 
A  large  handful  of  peach-leaves,  or  half  an 

ounce  of  peach-kernels  or  bitter  almonds, 

broken  in  pieces. 
A  tablenspoonful  of  rose-water. 
A  nutmeg. 


Boil  in  the  milk  the  cinnamon  and  the 
peach-leaves,  or  peach-kernels.  When  it 
has  boiled,  set  it  away  to  get  cold.  As 
aoon  as  it  is  cold,  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
to  clear  it  from  the  cioiiamon,  peach-leaves, 


&c.  and  stir  into  it,  gradually,  the  sugar, 
spice,  and  rose-water. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  sixteen  eggs  very  light, 
and  stir  them  by  degrees  into  the  milk, 
which  must  be  quite  cold  or  the  eggs  will 
make  it  curdle.  Put  the  custards  into  cups, 
and  set  them  in  a  baking-pan,  half  filled 
with  water.  When  baked,  grate  some  nut- 
meg over  each,  and  ice  them.  Make  the 
icing  of  the  whites  of  eight  eggs,  a  large 
tea-spoonful  of  powdered  loaf-sugar,  and 
six  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  beaten  all 
together  till  it  stands  alone.  Pile  up  some 
of  the  icing  on  the  top  of  each  custard, 
heaping  it  high.  Put  a  spot  of  red  nonpa- 
reils on  the  middle  of  the  pile  of  icing. 

m  _  w 

If  the  weather  be  damp,  or  the  eggs  not 
new-laid,  more  than  eight  whites  will  be 
required  for  the  icing. 


fcUSTARDS,  CURDS,  AND  CREAMS, 


«l 


PLAIN  CUSTARDS. 

A  quart  of  rich  milk. 

Eight  eggs. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

A  handful  of  peach-leaves,  or  lialf  an  ounce 

of  peach-kernels,  broken  in  pieces. 
A  nutuEieg. 

Boil  the  peach-leaves  or  kernels  in  the 
milk,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  When  cold, 
strain  out  the  leaves  or  kernels,  and  stir  in 
the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and 
stir  them  gradually  into  the  milk,  when  it 
is  quite  cold.  Bake  it  in  cnps,  or  in  a 
iarge  white  dish. 

When  cool,  grate  nutmeg  over  the  top. 


COLD  CUSTARDS. 

A  quart  of  new  milk,  and  a  half  a  pint  of 

cream,  mixed. 
A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 
A   large  glass  of  wiiite  wii>e,  in  which  an 

inch  of  washed  rennet  has  been  soaked. 
A  nutmeg. 

Mix  together  the  milk,  cream,  and  su- 
gar. Stir  tlie  wine  into  it,  and  pour  the 
mixture  into  your  custard-cups.  Set  them 
in  a  warm  place  near  the  fire,  till  they  be- 
come a  firm  curd.  Then  set  them  on  ice, 
or  in  a  very  cold  place.  Grate  nutmeg  over 
them. 


ALMOND  CUSTARD. 

One  pint  of  cream. 
One  pint  of  rich  milk. 
Half  a  pound  of  shelled  sweet  almonds. 
Two  ounces  of  shelled  bitter  almonds. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  rose-water. 
A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar. 
The  yolks  of  eight  eggs. 
A  little  oil  of  lemon. 

Blanch  the  almonds  and  pound  them  to 
a  paste*  mixing  the  rose-water  gradually 
with  tliem.  Powder  the  sugar,  and  lieat 
the  yolk  of  egg  till  very  light.  Mix  the 
cream  and  milk  together,  and  stir  into  it 
gradually  the  sugar,  the  pounded  almonds, 
and  the  beaten  yolk  of  egg.  Then  stir  the 
whole  very  hard.  Put  tlie  mixture  into  a 
skillet  or  sauce-pan,  and  set  it  in  a  heated 
stove,  or  on  a  charcoal  furnace.  Stir  it 
one  way  till  it  becomes  thick,  but  take  it 
off  the  iire  before  it  has  been  long  enough 
to  cm-die.  Set  it  away  to  get  cold.  Take 
half  tlie  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  them 
to  a  stiff  froth,  adding  a  little  powdered 
sugar,  and  a  few  drops  of  oil  of  lemon 
B 


(the  latter  in  proportion  to  its  strength.). 
Put  the  custard  into  a  glass  dish  or  bowl,j 
and  heap  the  frothed  white  of  egg  upon  it. 
You  may  ornament  the  top  with  nonpareils 
or  sugar-sand. 

Or  you  may  put  it  in  small  cups,  piling 
some  froth  on  each-. 


RICE  CUSTARDS. 

Half  a  pound  of  rice. 

Half  a  pound  of  raisins  or  currants. 

Eight  yolks  of  eggs  or  six  whole  eggsi 

Six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 

A  quart  of  rich  milk. 

A  handful  of  peach-leaves,  or  half  an  ounce 

of  peach-kernels,  broken  in  pieces. 
Half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon,  broken  in  pieces. 

Boil  the  rice  with  the  raisins  or  curraiitsj 
which  nmst  first  be  flouredi  Butter  some 
cups  or  a  mould,  and  when  the  rice  is  quite 
soft,  drain  it,  and  put  it  into  them.  Set  it 
away  to  get  cold. 

Beat  the  eggs  well.  Boil  tlie  milk  with 
the  cinnamon  and  peach-leaves,  or  kernels. 
As  soon  as  it  has  come  to  a  boil,  take  it 
off  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Then 
set  it  again  on  the  fire,  stir  into  it  alter- 
nately, the  egg  and  sugar,  taking  it  off  fre- 
quently and  stirring  it  hard,  lest  it  become 
a  curd.  Take  care  not  to  boil  it  too  long, 
or  it  will  be  lumpy  and  lose  its  flavor; 
When  done,  sot  it  away  tocuol.  Turnout 
the  rice  from  the  cups  or  mould,  into  a 
deep  dish.  Pour  some  of  the  boiled  cus- 
tard over  it,  and  send  up  the  remainder  of 
the  custard  in  a  sauce-boat^ 

You  may,  if  you  choose,  ornament  the 
lumps  of  rice,  (after  the  custard  is  poured 
round  them)  by  making  a  stiff  froth  of 
white  of  egg  (beaten  till  it  stands  alone) 
and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  with 
a  very  little  powdered  loaf-sugar.  Heap 
the  froth  on  tire  top  of  each  lump  of  rice. 


CURDS  AND  WHEY. 

Take  a  small  piece  of  rennet  about  twd 
inches  square.  Wash  it  very  clean  in  cold 
water,  to  get  all  the  salt  off,  and  wipe  it 
dry.  Put  it  in  a  tea-cup,  and  pour  on  it 
just  enough  of  lukewarm  water  to  cover  it. 
Let  it  set  all  night,  or  for  several  hours. 
'I'hen  take  out  the  rennet,  and  stir  the 
water  in  which  it  was  soaked,  into  a  quart 
of  milk,  which  should  be  in  a  broa^ 
dish. 

Set  the  milk  in  a  warm  place,  till  it  be- 
comes a  firm  curd.  As  soon  as  the  curd 
is  completely  made,  set  it  in  a  cool  placet 


14 


CUSTARDS,  CURDS,  AND  CREAMS. 


or  on  ice  (if  in  summer)  for  two  or  three 
hours  before  you  want  to  use  it. 

Eat  it  with  wine,  sugar,  and  nutmeg. 


The  whey,  drained  from  the  curd,  is  an 
excellent  drink  for  invalids. 


A  TRIFLE. 

A  quart  of  cream. 

A  quarter  pound  of  loaf-sugar,  powdered. 
Half  a  pint  of  white  wine  1     •      i 
Half  a  gill  of  brandy  5  '"''''''^• 

Eight  maocaroons,  or  more  if  you  choose. 
Four  small  sponge-cakes  or  Naples  biscuit. 
Two  ounces   of  blanched    sweet   almonds, 

pounded  in  a  mortar. 
One  ounce  of  blanched  bitter  almonds  or 

peach-kernels. 
The  juice  and  grated  peel  of  two  lemons. 
A  nutmeg,  grated. 
A  glass  of  noyau. 
A  pint  of  rich  baked  custard,  made  of  the 

yolks  of  eggs. 


Pound  the  sweet  and  bitter  almonds  to  a 
smooth  paste,  adding  a  little  rose-water  as 
you  pound  them. 

Grate  the  yellow  peels  of  the  lemons, 
and  squeeze  the  juice  into  a  saucer. 

Break  the  sponge  cake  and  maccaroons 
into  small  pieces,  mix  them  with  the  al- 
monds, and  lay  them  in  the  bottom  of  a 
large  glass  bowl.  Grate  a  nutmeg  over 
them,  and  the  juice  and  peel  of  the  lemons. 
Add  the  wine  and  brandy,  and  let  the  mix- 
ture remain  untouched,  till  the  cakes  are 
dissolved  in  the  liquor.  Then  stir  it  a 
little. 

Mix  the  cream  and  sugar  with  a  glass 
of  noyau,  and  beat  it  with  a  whisk  or  rods, 
till  it  stands  alone. 

As  the  froth  rises,  take  it  off  with  a 
spoon,  and  lay  it  on  a  sieve  (with  a  large 
dish  under  it)  to  drain.  The  cream,  that 
drains  into  the  dish,  must  be  poured  back 
into  the  pan  with  the  rest,  and  beaten  over 
again.  When  the  cream  is  finished,  set  it 
in  a  cool  place. 

When  the  custard  is  cold,  pour  it  into 
the  glass  bowl  upon  the  dissolved  cakes, 
&c.  and  when  the  cream  is  ready,  fdl  up 
the  bowl  with  it,  heaping  it  high  in  the 
middle.  You  may  ornament  it  with  non- 
pareils. 

If  you  choose,  you  can  put  in,  between 
the  custard  and  the  frothed  cream,  a  layer 
of  fruit  jelly,  or  small  fruit  preserved. 


WHIPT  CREAM, 

A  quart  of  cream. 

The  whites  of  four  eggs. 

Half  a  pint  of  white  wine. 

A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  loaf-Sugar. 

Ten  drops  of  strong  essence  of  lemon,  or 

two  lemons  cut  in  thin  slices,  or  the  juice 

of  a  large  lemon. 

Mix  together,  in  a  broad  pan,  all  the  in- 
gredients, unless  you  use  slices  of  lemon, 
and  then  they  must  be  laid  at  intervals 
among  the  froth,  as  you  lieap  it  in  the 
bowl. 

With  a  whisk  or  rods,  beat  the  cream 
to  a  strong  froth.  Have  beside  your  pan 
a  sieve  (bottom  upwards)  with  a  large  dish 
under  it.  As  the  froth  rises,  take  it  light- 
ly off  with  a  spoon,  and  lay  it  on  the  sieve 
to  drain.  When  the  top  of  the  sieve  is 
full,  transfer  the  froth  to  a  large  glass  or 
china  bowl.  Continue  to  do  this  till  the 
bowl  is  full. 

The  cream  which  has  dropped  through 
the  sieve  into  the  dish,  must  be  poine<l  into 
the  pan,  and  beaten  over  again.  When 
all  the  cream  is  converted  into  froth,  pile 
it  up  in  the  bowl,  making  it  highest  in  the 
middle. 

If  vou  choose,  you  may  ornament  it  with 
red  and  green  nonpareils. 

If  you  put  it  in  glasses,  lay  a  little  jelly 
in  the  bottom  of  each  glass,  and  pile  the 
cream  on  it. 

Keep  it  in  a  cool  place  till  you  want  to 
use  it. 


ICE  CREAM. 

A  quart  of  rich  cream,  boiled  and  set 
away  till  cold. 

Half  a  pound  of  powdered  loaf-sugar. 

The  juice  of  two  large  lemons,  or  a  pint 
of  strawberries  or  raspberries;  or  an 
ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounded  in  a  mortar  with  rose-water. 

Put  the  cream  into  a  broad  pan.*  Then 
stir  in  the  sugar  by  degrees,  and  when  all 
is  well  mixed,  strain  it  through  a  sieve. 

Put  it  into  a  tin  that  has  a  close  cover, 
and  set  it  in  a  tub.  Fill  the  tub  with  ice 
broken  into  very  small  pieces,  and  strew 
among  the  ice  a  large  quantity  of  salt,  tak- 
ing caie  that  none  of  the  salt  gets  into  the 
cream.  Scrape  the  cream  down  with  a 
spoon  as  it  freezes  round  the  edges  of  the 
tin.  While  the  cream  is  freezing,  stir  in 
gradually  the  lemon-juice,  or  the  juice  of  a 
pint  of  mashed  stravvberries  or  rasp  ber- 
ries. When  it  is  all  frozen,  dip  the  tin  in 
lukewarm  water;  take  out  the  cream,  and 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


15 


fill  your  glasses;  but  not  till  a  few  minutes 
before  you  want  to  use  it,  as  it  will  very 
9Qon  melt. 

You  may  heighten  the  color  of  the  red 
iiruit,  by  a  little  cochineal. 

If  you  wish  to  have  it  in  moulds,  put  the 
cream  into  them  as  soon  as  it  has  frozen  in 
the  tin.  •  Set  the  moulds  in  a  tub  of  ice 
and  salt.  Just  before  you  want  to  use  the 
cream,  tiike  tlie  moulds  out  of  the  tub, 
wipe  or  wash  the  salt  carefully  from  the 
outside,  dip  the  moulds  in  lukewarm  water, 
and  turn  out  the  cream. 

You  may  flavor  a  quart  of  ice-cream 
with  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  and  one 
ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
beaten  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  rose-water 
to  a  smooth  paste.  Stir  in  tiie  almonds 
gradually  while  the  cream  is  freezing. 


ANOTHER  KIND  OF  ICE-CREAM. 

A  pint  and  a  half  of  rich  cream. 

A  quart  and  a  half-pint  of  morning's  milk. 

One  pound  of  loaf-sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Two  lemons. 

Or  half  a  Vanilla  bean,  split  into  small 

pieces. 
Or  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  and  one 

ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 

split  into  pieces. 

Take  half  of  the  milk  and  put  in  the 
ingredient  that  is  to  flavor  it,  either  the 
vanilla,  the  almonds,  or  the  grated  rind  of 
the  lemons.  Boil  it,  stirring  in  gradually 
the  sugar. 


Having  beaten  the  eggs  well,  add  to  them 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  milk,  and  pour 
them  into  the  boiling  milk.  Let  them  sim- 
mer two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  them  all 
the  time.  Then  take  tiie  mixture  off  the 
fire  and  strain  it  through  book-muslin  into 
a  pan.  Add  the  cream  and  the  remainder 
of  the  milk,  and  put  the  whole  into  the  tin 
freezer,  which  must  be  set  in  a  tub  filled 
with  ice,  among  which  must  be  scattered  a 
great  deal  of  salt. 

Squeeze  the  juice  from  the  two  lemons 
and  stir  it  into  tlie  cream,  by  degrees, 
while  it  is  freezing. 

When  it  is  all  frozen,  turn  it  out,  first 
dipping  the  tin  for  a  moment  in  warm  water. 

If  you  wish  to  flavor  it  with  strawberry 
or  raspberry  juice,  that,  like  the  lemon- 
juice,  must  be  stirred  gradually  in  while 
the  cream  is  freezing. 

In  places  where  cream  is  not  abundant, 
this  receipt  (though  inferior  in  richness) 
will  be  found  more  economical  than  the 
preceding  one.  It  is,  however,  less  easy 
and  expeditious. 


FLOATING  ISLAND. 

Six  whites  of  eggs. 

Six  large  table-spoonfuls  of  jelly. 

A  pint  of  cream,  sweetened  with  loaf-sugar. 

Put  tlie  jelly  and  white  of  egg  into  a 
pan,  and  beat  it  together  with  a  whisk,  till 
it  becomes  a  stiff  froth  and  stands  alone. 

Have  ready  the  cream,  in  a  broad  shal- 
low dish.  Just  before  you  send  it  to  table, 
pile  up  the  froth  in  the  centre  of  the 
cream. 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND   GINGERBREAD. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS. 


In  making  cakes,  it  is  particularly  necessary  that  the  eggs  should 
be  well  beaten.  They  are  not  sufficiently  light  till  the  surface 
looks  smooth  and  level,  and  till  they  get  so  thick  as  to  be  of  the 
consistence  of  boiled  custard. 

White  of  egg  should  always  be  beaten  till  it  become  a  heap  of 
stiff  froth,  without  any  liquid  at  the  bottom;  and  till  it  hangs  from 
the  rods  or  fork  without  dropping. 

Eggs  become  light  soonest  when  new-laid,  and  when  beaten 
near  the  fire,  or  in  warm  dry  weather. 

Butter  and  sugar  should  be  stirred  till  it  looks  like  thick  cream, 
and  till  it  stands  up  in  the  pan. 


m  CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 

It  should  be  kept  cool.  If  too  warm,  it  will  make  the  cakes 
heavy. 

Large  cakes  should  be  baked  in  tin  or  earthen  pans,  with  straight 
sides,  that  are  as  nearly  perpendicular  as  possible.  They  cut  inta 
handsomer  slices,  and  if  they  are  to  be  iced,  it  will  be  found  very 
inconvenient  to  put  on  the  icing,  if  the  cake  slopes  in  towards 
the  bottom. 

Before  you  ice  a  cake,  dredge  it  all  over  with  flour,  and  then 
wipe  the  flour  off.  This  will  enable  you  to  spread  on  the  icing 
more  evenly. 

Before  you  cut  an  iced  cake,  cut  the  icing  by  itself  with  a  small 
sharp  penknife.  The  large  knife  with  which  you  divide  the  cake, 
will  crack  and  break  the  icing. 

L^Xge  Gingerbread,  as  it  burns  very  easily,  may  be  baked  in  an 
earthen  pan.  So  also  may  Black  Cake  or  Pound  Cake.  Tin 
pans  or  moulds,  with  a  hollow  tube  in  the  middle,  are  best  for 
cakes. 

If  large  cakes  are  baked  in  tin  paus,  the  bottom  and  sides  should 
be  covered  with  sheets  of  paper,  before  the  mixture  is  put  in. 
The  paper  must  be  well  buttered. 

Sponge  cakes,  and  Almond  c^kes  should  be  baked  in  pans  that 
are  as  thin  as  possible. 

If  the  cakes  should  get  burnt,  scrape  them  with  a  knife  or  gralH 
er,  as  soon  as  they  are  cool. 

Always  be  careful  to  butter  your  pans  well.  Should  the  cakes 
stick,  they  ca,nnot  be  got  out  without  breaking. 

For  queen-cakes,  Sec.  the  small  tins  of  a  round  or  oval  shape 
fire  most  convenient.     Fill  them  but  little  more  than  half. 

After  the  mixture  is  completed,  set  it  in  a  cool  place  till  all  the 
qakes  are  baked. 

In  rolling  out  cakes  made  of  dough,  use  as  little  flour  as  possi-. 
h\^.  When  you  lay  them  in  the  pans,  do  not  place  them  too  close 
together,  lest  they  run  ^nto  each  other. 

When  you  are  cutting  them  out,  dip  the  cutter  frequently  in 
flour,  to  prevent  its  sticking. 

If  cakes  are  not  properly  baked  they  will  have  heavy  streaka 
through  them,  and  the  bottoms  will  be  uneven  and  misshapen. 

It  is  always  safest  to  have  large  cakes  done  in  a  baker's  oven. 


QUEEN  CAKE.  j      Pound  the  spice  to  a  fine  powder,  in  a, 

I  marble  mortal-,  and  sift  it  well. 
One  pound  of  powdered  wliite  sugar.  Put  the  su^ar  into  a  deep  earthen  pan,. 

One  pound  of  fresh  l)utter— washetl.  and  cut  the  butter  into  it.     Stir  them  to-. 

Fourteen  ounces  of  sifted  flour.  gether,  till  very  light. 

Ten  eggs.  Beat  the  eggs  ia  a  broad  shallow  pan> 

gne  wine-glass  of  wine  and  brandy,  mixed,    till  they  are  perfectly  smooth  and  thick, 
alf  a  glass  of  rose-water,  or  twelve  drops        Stir  into  the  butter  and  sugar  a  little  of 
of  essence  of  lemon.  the  beaten  egg,  and  then  a  little  flour,  and 

One  tea-«poonful  of  mace  and  cinnamon,    so  on  altei'nately,  a  little  egg  and  a  little 
mixed.  flour,  till  the  whole  is   in ;   continuing  all 

One  nutmeg,  beaten  or  grated.  ,  the  time  to  beat  the  e^s^  aiwi  stirring  the 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AiND  GINl 


mixture  very  hard.  Add  by  degrees,  the 
spice,  and  then  the  liquor,  a  little  at  a 
time.  Finally,  put  in  the  rose-water,  or 
essence  of  lemon.  Stir  the  whole  very  hard 
at  the  last. 

Take  about  two  dozen  little  tins,  or 
more,  if  you  have  room  for  them  in  the 
oven.  Rub  them  very  well  with  fresh  but- 
ter. With  a  spoon,  put  some  of  the  mix- 
ture in  each  tin,  but  do  not  fill  them  to  the 
top  as  the  cakes  will  rise  higli  in  baking. 
Bake  them  in  a  quick  oven,  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour.  When  they  are  done,  tliey 
will  shrink  a  little  from  the  sides  of  the  tins. 

Before  you  fill  the  tins  again,  scrape 
them  well  with  a  knife,  and  wash  or  wipe 
them  clean. 

If  the  cakes  are  scorched  by  too  hot  a 
fire,  do  not  scrajie  off  the  burnt  parts  till 
they  have  grown  cold. 

Make  an  icing  with  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  beaten  till  it  stands  alone,  and  twen- 
ty-four tea-spoonfuls  of  the  best  loaf-sugar, 
powdered,  and  beaten  gi-adually  into  the 
white  of  egg.  Flavor  it  with  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  rose-water  or  eight  drops  of  essence 
of  lemon,  stirred  in  at  the  last.  Spread 
it  evenly  with  a  broad  knife,  over  the  top 
of  each  queen -cake,  ornamenting  them, 
(while  the  icing  is  quite  wet)  witli  red 
and  green  nonpareils,  or  fine  sugar-sand, 
dropped  on,  carefully,  with  the  thumb  and 
finger. 

When  the  cakes  are  iced,  set  them  in  a 
warm  place  to  dry;  but  not  too  near  the 
fire,  as  that  will  cause  the  icing  to  crack. 

You  may  color  icing  of  a  fine  pink,  by 
mixing  with  it  a  few  drops  of  liquid  cochi- 
neal, which  is  prepared  by  boiling  very 
slowly  in  an  earthen  or  china  vessel  twenty 
grains  of  cochineal  powder,  twenty  grains 
of  cream  of  tartar,  and  twenty  grains  of 
powdered  alum,  all  dissolved  in  a  gill  of 
soft  water,  and  boiled  till  reduced  to  one 
half.  Strain  it  and  cork  it  up  in  a  small 
phial.  Pink  icing  should  be  ornamented 
with  white  nonpareils. 

In  buying  essence  or  oil  of  lemon,  en- 
deavor to  get  that  which  is  white,  it  being 
much  the  strongest  and  best.  When  it 
looks  greenish,  it  is  generally  very  weak, 
so  that  when  used,  a  double  or  treble  quan- 
tity is  necessary. 


ALMOND  CAKE. 

Two  ounces  of  blanched    bitter  almonds, 

pounded  very  fine. 
Seven  ounces  of  flom",  sifted  and  dried. 
Ten  eggs. 

One  pound  loaf-sugar,  powdered  and  sifted. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  rose-water. 

Take  two  ounces   of  shelled   bitter  al- 
monds, or  peach-kernels.     Scald  them  in 
B2 


hot  wat9^  ai>4  as  you  peel  them,  throw 
them  into  »^  fabwl  of  cold  water,  then  wipe 
them  dry,  aftd.pt)und  tiiem  one  by  one  in  a 
mortar,  till  they  are  quite  fine  and  smooth. 

Break  ten  eggs,  putting  the  yolks  in  one 
pan  and  the  whites  in  another.  Beat  them 
separately  as  light  as  possible,  the  whites 
first,  and  then  the  yolks. 

Add  the  sugar,  gradually,  to  the  yolks, 
beating  it  in  very  hard.  Then  by  degrees, 
beat  in  the  almonds,  and  then  add  the  rose- 
water. 

Stir  half  the  whites  of  the  eggs  into  the 
yolks  and  sugar.  Divide  the  flour  into 
two  equal  parts,  and  stir  in  one  half,  slowly 
and  lightly,  till  it  bubbles  on  the  top. 
Then  the  other  half  of  the  white  of  egg, 
and  then  the  remainder  of  the  flour  very 
lightly. 

Butter  a  large  square  tin  pan,  or  one 
made  of  paste-board  which  will  be  better. 
Put  in  the  mixture,  and  set  immediately  in 
a  quick  oven,  which  must  be  rather  hotter 
at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top.  Bake  it 
according  to  the  thickness.  If  you  allow 
the  oven  to  get  slack,  the  cake  will  be 
spoiled. 

Make  an  icing  with  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  twenty-four  tea-spoonfuls  of  loaf-su- 
gar, and  eight  drops  of  essence  of  lemon. 

When  the  cake  is  cool,  mark  it  in  small 
squares  with  a  knife.  Cover  it  with  icing, 
and  ornament  it  while  wet,  with  nonpareils 
dropfjed  on  in  borders,  round  each  square 
of  the  cake.  When  the  icing  is  dry,  cut 
the  cake  in  squares,  cutting  through  the 
icing  very  carefully  with  a  penknife.  Or 
you  may  cut  it  in  squares  first,  and  then 
ice  and  ornament  each  square  separately. 

Eat  it  while  fresh. 


POUND  CAKE. 

One  pound  of  flour,  sifted. 

One  pound  of  white  sugar,  powdered  and 
sifted. 

One  pound  of  fresh  butter* 

Ten  eggs. 

Half  a  glass  ol'  wine-  \ 

Half  a  glass  of  brandy        >  mixed. 

Half  a  glass  of  rose-water^ 

Twelve  chops  of  essence  of  lemon. 

A  table-spoouful  of  mixed  mace  and  cin- 
namon. 

A  nutmeg,  powdered. 

Pound  the  spice  and  sift  it.  There 
should  be  twice  as  much  cinnamon  as  mace. 
Mix  the  cinnamon,  mace,  and  nutmeg  to- 
gether. 

Sift  the  flour  in  a  broad  pan,  or  wooden 
bowl.  Sift  the  powdered  sugar  into  a 
large  deep  pan,  and  cut  the  butter  into  it, 
in  small  pieces.     If  tlie  weatlier   is  very 


18 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


cold,  and  the  butter  hard,  set  the  pan  near 
the  fire  for  a  few  minutes;  but  if  the  butter 
is  too  warm,  the  cake  will  be  lieavy.  Stir 
tlie  butter  and  sugar  together,  with  a  wood- 
en stick,  till  they  are  very  light,  and  white, 
and  look  like  cream. 

Beat  the  eggs  in  a  broad  shallow  pan 
with  a  wooden  egg-beater  or  whisk.  Thej' 
must  be  beaten  till  they  are  thick  and 
smooth,  and  of  the  consistence  of  boiled 
cuatard. 

Pour  the  liquor  and  rose-water,  gradual- 
ly, into  the  butter  and  sugar,  stirring  all 
the  time.  Add,  by  degrees,  the  essence 
of  lemon  and  spice, 

Stir  the  egg  and  flour  alternately  into  the 
butter  and  sugar,  a  handful  of  llour,  and 
about  two  spoonfuls  of  the  egg  (which  you 
must  continue  to  beat  all  the  time,)  and 
when  all  is  in,  stir  the  whole  mixture  very 
hard,  for  near  ten  minutes. 

Butter  a  large  tin  pan,  or  a  cake  mould 
with  an  open  tube  rising  from  the  mi,ddle. 
Put  the  mixture  into  it  as  evenly  as  possi- 
ble. Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  for  two, 
or  three,  or  four  hours,  in  proportion  to  its 
thickness,  and  to  the  heat  of  the  fire. 

When  you  think  it  is  nearly  done, thrust 
a  twig  or  wooden  skewer  into  it,  down  to 
the  bottom.  If  the  stick  comes  out  clean 
and  dry,  the  cake  is  almost  baked.  When 
quite  done,  it  will  shrink  from  the  sides  of 
the  pan.,^  and  cease  making  a  noise.  Then 
wUkh'aw  the  coals  (if  baked  in  a  dutch 
oven)  take  off  the  lid,  and  let  the  cake 
remain  in  the  oven  to  cuol  gradually. 

You  may  ice  it  either  warm  or  cold. 
Before  you  put  the  icing;  on  a  large  cake,^ 
di-edge  the  cake  all  over  with  flour,  and 
then  wipe  the  flour  off;  this  will  make  the 
icing  stick  on  better — If  you  have  sufficient 
time,  the  appearance  of  l!ie  cake  will  be 
nmch  improved  by  icing  it  twit^.  Put  on 
the  first  icing  soon  after  the  cake  is  taken, 
out  of  t!ie  oveji,  and  the  second  the  next 
day  wheji  the  first  is  perfectly  dry.  While 
(he  last  icing  is  wet,  ornament  it  yvith  ca- 
lored  sugar-sand  or  nonpareils. 


SPONGE  CAKE. 

Twelve  eggs. 

Ten  ounces  sifted  flour,  di^ed  ney.r  the  fire. 
A  pound  of  louf  sugar,  powdiued  and  sifted. 
Twelve  drops  of  essence  of  leaioi^. 
A  grated  nutmeg. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon  and 
mace,  mixed. 

Beat  the  eggs  as  liglitas  possible.  Eggs 
for  sponge  or  almond  cakes  require  more 
beating  than  for  any  other  purpose.  Beat 
the  sugar,  by  degrees,  into  the  eggs.  Beat 
very  hard,  and  continue  to  beat  some  time 
after  the  sugar  is  all  in. 


No  sort  of  sugar  but  ^oaf,  will  make  light 
sponge-cake.  Stir  in,  gradually,  the  spice 
and  essence  of  lemon.  Then,  by  degrees, 
put  in  the  flour,  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring 
round  the  mixture  very  slowly  with  a  knife. 
If  the  flour  is  stirred  in  too  hard,  the  cake 
will  be  tough.  It  must  be  done  lightly  and 
gently,  so  that  the  top  of  the  mixture  will 
be  covered  with  bubbles.  As  soon  as  tlie 
flour  is  all  in,  begin  to  bake  it,  as  setting 
will  injure  it. 

Put  ii  in  small  tins,  well  buttered,  or  in 
one  large  tin  jjan.  The  thinner  the  jians, 
the  better  for  sponge-cake.  Fill  the  small 
tins  about  half  full.  Grate  loaf-sugar  over 
the  top  of  each,  before  you  set  them  in  the 
oven. 

Sponge-cake  requires  a  very  quick  oven, 
particularly  at  the  bottom.  It  should  be; 
baked  as  fast  as  possible,  ojc  it  will  be  tough 
and  lieavy,  however  light  it  ipay  have  been 
before  it  went  into  the  oven.  It  is  of  all 
cakes  the  most  liable  to  be  spoiled  in  bak- 
ing. When  taken  out  of  the  tins,  the  cakes 
should  be  spread  on  a  sieve  to  cool.  If 
baked  in  one  large  cake,  it  should  be  iced. 

A  large  cake  of  twelve  eggs,  should  be. 
baked  at  least  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven. 

For  small  cakes,  ten  minntes'  is  generally 
sufficient.  If  they  get  very  much  out  of 
shape  in  baking,  it  is  a  sign  that  Uie  oven 
is  too  slow. 

Some  think  that  sponge-cakes  and  al-. 
mond  cakes  are  lighter,  when  the  yolks  and 
whites  of  the  eggs  are  beaten  in  separate, 
pan^,  and  mixed  gently  together  before  the 
sugar  is  beaten  into  them. 

If  done  sepaiately  from  the  yolks,  the. 
whites  should  be  beaten  till  they  stand  alone. 

Sponge-cake  is  best  the  day  it  is  baked.. 


BLACK  CAKE,  Oil  PLUM  CAKE.. 

One  pouixl  of  flour  sifted. 

One  pound  of  fresh  butler. 

One  pound  of  powdered  w.hite  sugar. 

Twehe  eggs. 

Two  pounds  of  the  best  raisins.. 

Two  pounds  of  currants. 

Two  table-si)oonful3  of  mixed  spice,  mace 

and  cinnamon. 
T\vo  nutmegs  powdered. 
A  large  glass  of  wine         ^ 
A  large  glass  of  brandy     >  mixed  together. 
Half  a  glass  of  rose-water  ^ 
A  pound  of  citron. 

Pick  the  currants  very  clean,  and  wash 
them,  draining  them  through  a  colander. 
Wipe  them  in  a  towel.  Spread  them  out 
on  a  large  dish,  and  set  them  near  the  fire, 
or  in  tlie  hot  sun  to  dry,  placing  the  dish 
jti  a  slanting  position.     Having  stoned  th^^ 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


19 


raisins,  cut  them  in  half,  mid  when  all  are 
done,  sprinkle  them  well  with  sifted  tiour, 
to  prevent  their  sinking  to  the  bottom  of 
the  cake.  When  the  currants  are  dry, 
sprinkle  them  also  with  flour. 

Pound  the  spice,  allowing  twice  as  much 
cinnamon  as  mace.  Sift  it,  and  mix  the 
mace,  nutmeg,  and  cinnamon  together. 
Mix  also  the  liquor  and  rose-water  in  a 
tumhler  or  cup.  Cut  the  citron  in  slips. 
Sift  the  flour  into  a  broad  dish.  Sift  tlie 
sugai-  into  a  deep  earthen  pan,  and  cut  the 
butter  into  it.  Warm  it  near  the  fire,  if 
the  weather  is  too  cold  for  it  to  mix 
easily.  Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a 
cream. 

Beat  the  eggs  as  light  as  possible.  Stir 
them  into  the  butter  and  sugar,  alternately 
with  die  flour.  Stir  very  hard.  Add 
gradually  the  spice  and  liquor.  Stir  the 
raisins  and  currants  alternately  into  the 
mixture,  taking  care  that  they  are  well 
floured.  Stir  the  whole  as  hard  as  possi- 
ble, for  ten  minutes  after  the  ingredient^ 
are  in. 

Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  large 
tin  or  earthen  pan,  with  sheets  of  white 
paper  well  buttered,  and  put  into  it  some 
of  the  mixture.  Then  spread  on  it  some 
pf  the  citron,  which  must  not  be  cut  too 
small.  Next  put  a  layer  of  the  mixture, 
and  then  a  layer  of  citron,  and  so  on  till 
it  is  all  in,  having  a  layer  of  the  mixture 
at  the  top. 

This  cake  is  always  best  baked  in  h 
baker's  oven,  and  will  require  four  or  five 
hours,  in  proportion  to  its  thickness. 

After  this  cake  is  done,  it  will  be  the 
better  for  withdrawing  the  fire  (if  baked 
in  an  iron  oven)  and  letting  it  stay  in  tlie 
oven  all  night,  or  till  it  gets  quite  cold. 

{ce  it,  next  day. 


FRENCH  ALMOND  CAKE, 

Six  ounces  of  shelled  sweet  almonds. 
Three  ounces  of  shelled  bitter  almonds,  or 

peach-kernels. 
Three  ounces  sifted  flour,  dried  near  the  fire. 
Fourteen  eggs. 

One  poimd  of  powdered  loaf-sugar. 
Twelve  drops  of  essence  of  lemon. 

Blanch  the  almonds,  by  scalding  them  in 
hot  water.  Put  them  in  a  bowl  of  cold 
water,  and  \vi})e  them  dry,  when  you  take 
them  out.  Pound  tliem,  one  at  a  time,  in 
a  mortar,  till  they  are  perfectly  smooth. 
Mix  the  sweet  and  bitter  almonds  together. 
Prepare  them,  if  possible,  the  day  before 
the  cake  is  made.  While  pounJing  the 
almonds,  pour  in  occasionally  a  little  rose- 
water,     It  makes  them  much  lighter. 


Put  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
into  separate  pans.  Beat  the  whites  till 
they  stand  alone,  and  then  the  yolks  till 
they  are  very  thick. 

Put  the  sugar,  gradually,  to  the  yolks, 
beating  it  in  very  hard.  Add,  by  degrees, 
the  almonds,  still  beating  very  hard.  Then 
put  in  the  essence  of  lemon.  Next,  beat 
in,  gradually,  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  con- 
tinuing to  beat  for  some  time  after  they 
are  all  in.  Lastly,  stir  in  the  flour,  as 
slowly  and  lightly,  as  possible. 

Butter  a  large  tin  mould  or  pan.  Put 
the  cake  in  and  bake  it  in  a  very  quick 
oven,  an  hour  or  more  according  to  its 
thickness. 

The  oven  must  on  no  account  be  hotter 
at  the  top,  than  at  the  bottom. 

AVhen  done,  set  it  on  a  sieve  to  cool. 

Ice  it,  and  ornament  it  with  nonpareils. 

These  almond  cakes  are  generally  baked 
in  a  turban-shaped  mould,  and  the  nonpa^-v 
reils  put  on,  in  spots  or  sprigs. 

This  cake  eats  best  the  day  it  is  baked"^ 

A  pound  of  almonds  in  the  shells  (if  the 
shells  are  soft  and  thin,)  will  generally 
yield  half  a  pound  when  shelled.  Hard,^ 
thick-shelled  almonds,  seldom  yield  much 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  pound,  and  should 
therefore  never  be  bought  for  cakes  or  pud-- 
dings. 

Bitter  almonds  and  jjeach-kernels  can 
always  be  purchased  with  tlie  shells  off". 

Families  should  always  save  their  peach- 
kernels,  as  they  can  be  used  in  cakes,  pud- 
dings and  custards. 


MACAROONS. 

Half  a  pound  of  shelled  sweet  almonds^ 

A  quarter  poimd  of  shelled  bitter  almonds. 

The  whites  of  three  eggs. 

Twenty -four  large  tea-spoonfuls  of  powr<fer- 
ed  loaf-sugar. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

A  laige  tea-spoonful  of  mixed  spice,  nut- 
meg, n^ace  and  cinnamon. 

Blandi  and  yjound  your  almonds,  beat 
them  very  smooth,  and  mix  the  sweet  and 
bitter  togetlier;  do  them,  if  you  can,  the 
day  liefore  you  make  the  macaroons. 
Pound  and  sift  your  spice.  Beat  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  till  they  stand  alone; 
add  to  them,  very  gradually,  the  powdered 
sugar,  a  spoonful  at  a  time,  beat  it  in  very 
hard,  and  put  in,  by  degrees,  the  rose-water 
and  spice.  Then  stir  in,  gradually,  tlie 
almonds.  The  mixture  must  be  like  a  soft 
dough;  if  too  thick,  it  will  be  heavy;  if 
too  thin,  it  will  iim  out  of  shape.  If  you 
find  your  aUnonds  not  sufficient,  prepare  a 


20 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


few  more,  and  stir  them  in.  When  it  is 
all  well  mixed  and  stirred,  put  some  flour 
in  the  palm  of  your  hand,  and  taking  up  a 
lump  of  the  mixture  with  a  knife,  roll  it  on 
your  hand  with  the  flour  into  a  small  round 
ball;  have  ready  an  iron  or  tin  pan,  but- 
tered, and  lay  the  macaroons  in  it,  as  you 
make  them  up.  Place  them  about  two 
inches  apart,  in  case  of  their  spreading. 
Bake  them  about  eight  or  ten  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven ;  they  should  be  baked  of  a 
pale  brown  color.  If  too  much  baked, 
they  will  lose  their  flavor;  if  too  little, 
they  will  be  heavy.  Let  the  top  of  the 
oven  be  hotter  than  the  bottom.  They 
should  rise  high  in  the  middle,  and  crack 
on  the  surface.  You  may,  if  you  choose, 
put  a  larger  proportion  of  spice. 

Cocoa-nut  cakes  may  be  made  in  a  similar 
manner,  substituting  for  the  pounded  al- 
monds half  a  pound  of  finely  grated  cocoa- 
nut.  They  must  be  made  into  small  round 
balls  with  a  little  flour  laid  on  the  palm  of 
the  hand,  and  baked  a  few  minutes.  They 
are  very  fine. 


APEES. 

A  pound  of  flour,  sifted. 
Half  a  pound  of  butter. 
Half  a  glass  of  wine,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 

rose-water,  mixed. 
Half  a  pound  of  powdered  while  sugar. 
A  nutmeg,  grated. 
A  tea-spoonful   of  beaten   cinnamon   and 

mace. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  car ra way  seeds. 


Sift  the  flour  into  a  broad  pan,  and  cut 
up  the  butter  in  it.  Add  the  carraways, 
sugar,  and  spice,  and  jwur  in  the  liquor 
by  degrees,  mixing  ii  well  with  a  knife: 
and  add  enough  of  cold  water  to  make 
it  a  stiflf  dough.  Spread  Home  flour  on 
your  pasteboard,  take  out  the  dough,  and 
knead  it  very  well  with  your  hands.  Cut 
it  into  small  pieces,  and  knead  each  sepa- 
rately, then  put  them  all  togetiier,  and 
knead  the  whole  in  one  lump.  Roll  it  out 
in  a  sheet  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  it  out  in  round  cakes,  with  the  edge  of 
a  tumbler,  or  a  tin  of  that  size.  Butter  an 
iron  pan,  and  lay  the  cakes  in  it,  not  too 
close  together.  Bake  them  a  few  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven,  till  they  are  very 
slightly  colored,  but  not  brown.  If  too 
much  baked,  they  will  entirely  lose  their 
flavor.     Do  not  roll  them  oat  too  thin. 

The  top  of  the  oven  should  be  hotter 
than  the  bottom,  or  the  cakes  will  lose  their 
shape. 


JUMBLES. 

Three  eggs. 

Half  a  pound  of  flour,  sifted. 

Half  a  pound  of  butter. 

Half  a  pound  of  powdered  loaf-sugar. 

A  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

A  nutmeg,  grated. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  mixed  mace  and  cinnamon. 

Stir  the  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream. 
Beat  the  eggs  very  light.  Throw  them, 
all  at  once,  into  the  pan  of  flour.  Put  in, 
at  once,  the  butter  and  sugar,  and  then  add 
the  spice  and  rose-water.  If  you  have  no 
rose-water,  substitute  six  or  seven  drops 
of  strong  essence  of  lemon,  or  more  if  the 
essence  is  weak.  Stir  the  whole  very  hard, 
with  a  knife. 

Spread  some  flour  on  your  paste-board, 
and  flour  your  hands  well.  Take  up  with 
your  knife,  a  portion  of  the  dough,  and  lay 
it  on  the  board.  Roll  it  lightly  with  your 
hands,  into  long  thin  rolls,  which  must  be 
cut  into  equal  lengths,  curled  up  into  rings, 
and  laid  gently  into  an  iron  or  tin  pan, 
buttered,  not  too  close  to  each  other,  as 
they  spread  in  baking.  Bake  them  in  a 
quick  oven  about  five  minutes,  and  grate 
loaf-sugar  over  them  when  cool. 

The  top  of  the  oven  may  be  nearly  red 
hot,  otherwise  the  jumbles  will  run  into 
each  other,  and  become  flat  and  shapeless. 


KISSES. 

One  pound  of  the  best  loaf-sugrar,  powdered 

and  sifted. 
The  whites  of  four  eggs. 
Twelve  drops  of  essence  of  lemon. 
A  lea-cup  of  currant  jelly. 

Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  till  they 
stand  alone.  Then  beat  in,  gradually,  the 
sugar,  a  tea-spoonful  at  a  time.  Add  the 
essence  of  lemon,  and  beat  the  whole  very 
hard. 

Lay  a  wet  sheet  of  paper  on  the  bottom 
of  a  square  tin  pan.  Drop  on  it,  at  equal 
distances,  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  stiff"  cur- 
rant jelly.  It  is  better  to  put  a  little  of  the 
beaten  white  of  egg  and  sugar  at  first  un- 
der the  cui-rant  jelly.  With  a  large  spoon, 
pile  some  of  the  beaten  white  of  egg  and 
sugar,  on  each  lump  of  jelly,  so  as  to  cover 
it  entirely.  Drop  on  the  mixture,  as  even- 
ly as  possible,  so  as  to  make  the  kisses  of 
a  round  smooth  shape. 

Set  them  in  a  cool  oven,  and  as  soon  as 
they  are  colored,  they  are  done.  Then 
take  them  out  and  place  them  two  bottoms 
together.  Lay  them  lightly  on  a  sieve, 
and  dry  them  in  a  cool  oven,  till  the  two 
bottoms  stick  fast  together,  so  as  to  form 
one  ball  or  oval. 


CAKES,  BUNS,  AND  GINGERBREAD, 


^ 


RUSK. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

One  pound  of  flour,  sifted. 

One  egg. 

Three  wine-glasses  of  milk. 

A  wine-glass  and  a  half  of  the  best  yeast. 

A  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

A  tea-spoonfui  of  powdered  ciunaiuon. 

Sift  your  flour  into  a  pan.  Cut  up  the 
better  in  the  milk,  and  warm  them  a  little, 
so  as  to  soften  the  butter,  but  not  to  melt  it 
entirely.  Beat  your  egg;  pour  the  milk 
and  butter  into  your  pan  of  flour,  then  the 
egg,  then  the  rose-water  and  spice,  and 
lastly  the  yeast.  Stir  all  well  together 
with  a  knife. 

Spread  some  flour  on  your  paste-board: 
lay  the  dough  on  it,  and  knead  it  well. 
Then  divide  it  into  small  pieces  of  an  equal 
size,  and  knead  each  piece  into  a  little 
thick  round  cake.  Butter  an  iron  pan, 
jay  the  cakes  in  it,  and  set  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise.  Prick  the  tops  with  a  fork. 
When  they  are  quite  light,  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Rusk  should  be  eaten  fresh. 


SPANISH  BUNS. 

Four  eggs. 

Three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  sifted. 
Half  a  pound  of  pow4ered  whitp  sugar. 
Two  wine-glasses  and  a^  ha|f  of  rich  milk. 
Six  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 
A  wine-glass  and  a  half  of  the  best  yeast. 
A  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 
A  grated  nutmeg. 

A   large    tea-spoonful    of  powdered    mace 
and  cinnamon. 

Sift  half  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  broad 
pan,  and  sift  a  quarter  of  a  pound,  separ- 
ately, into  a  deep  plate,  and  set  it  aside. 
Put  the  milk  into  a  soup-plate,  cut  up  the 
butter,  and  set  it  on  the  stove  or  near  the 
Hre  to  warm,  but  do  not  let  it  get  too  hot. 
Wlien  the  butter  is  very  soft,  stir  it  all 
through  the  milk  with  a  knife,  and  set  it 
away  to  cool.  Beat  the  eggs  very  light, 
and  mix  the  milk  and  butter  with  them,  all 
at  once ;  then  pour  all  into  the  pan  of  flour. 
Put  in  tlie  spice,  and  the  rose-water,  or  if 
you  prefer  it,  eight  drops  of  essence  of 
lemon.  Add  the  yeast,  of  which  an  in- 
creased quantity  will  be  necessary,  if  it  is 
not  very  strong  and  fresh.  Stir  the  whole 
very  hard,  with  a  knife.  Add  the  sugar 
gradually.  If  the  sugar  is  not  stirred  in 
rfbwiy,  a  little  at  a  time,  the  buns  will  be 
heavy.  Tlien,  by  degrees,  sprinkle  in  the 
remaining  quarter   of  a   pound   of  flour. 


Stir  all  well  together;  butter  a  square  ir<Mi 
pan,  and  put  in  the  mixture.  Cover  it 
with  a  cloth,  and  set  it  near  the  fire  to  rise. 
It  will  probaljly  not  be  light  in  less  than 
five  hours.  VViien  it  is  risen  very  high, 
and  is  covered  with  bubbles,  bake  it  in  a 
moderate  oven,  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
or  more  in  proportion  to  its  thickness. 

When  it  is  quite  cool,  cut  it  in  squares, 
and  ^n-ate  loaf-sugar  over  them.  This 
quantity  will  make  twelve  or  fifteen  buns. 

They  are  best  the  day  tliey  are  baked. 

You  may,  if  you  choose,  bake  them  sep-« 
arately,  in  small  square  tins,  adding  to  the 
batter  half  a  pound  of  currants  or  choppe4 
raisins,  well  floured,  and  stirred  in  at  the 
last. 

In  making  buns,  stir  the  yeast  well  before 
you  |)ut  it  in,  having  first  poured  off  the 
beer  or  thin  part  from  the  top.  If  your 
yeast  is  not  good,  do  not  attempt  to  make 
buns  with  it,  as  they  will  never  be  light. 

Buns  may  be  made  in  a  plainer  way,  with 

the    following    ingredients,    mixed  in   thei 

above  manner. 

Half  a  pound  of  flour,  sifted  into  a  pan. 

A  quarter  pound  of  flour,  sifted  in  a  plate, 
and  set  aside  to  sprinkle  in  at  the  last. 

Three  eggs,  well  beaten. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

Three  wine-glasses  of  milk. 

A  wine-glass  and  a  half  of  the  best  yeast. 

A  large  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  cinna- 
mon. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  cut  up, 
and  warmed  in  tlie  milk. 

All  buns  should  be  eaten  quite  iresh. 


NEW-YORK   CUP  CAKE. 

Four  eggs. 

Four  cufis  of  sifted  flour. 

Three  cups  of  powdered  white  sugar. 

One  cup  of  butter. 

One  cup  of  rich  milk. 

One  glass  of  white  wine. 

A  grated  nutmeg. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon  beaten. 

A  small  tea-spoonful  of  jjearl-aeh. 

The  cups  should  hold  about  a  half-pint. 

Warm  tlie  milk  and  cut  up  the  butter  m 
it,  keeping  it  by  the  fire  till  the  butter  is 
melted.  Prepare  the  spice,  and  sift  the 
flour.  Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and  stir 
them  into  the  milk  in  turn  with  the  floin*. 
Add  the  spice,  and  wine,  and  lastly  the 
{)earl-ash,  having  melted  it  in  a  little  vine- 
gar.    Stir  all  very  hard. 

Butter  some  small  tins,  fill  tbem  half^^utt 


23 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND   GINGERBREAD. 


with  the  mixture,  and   bake   them   in  a 
moderate  oven  of  equal  beat  throughout. 


INDIAN  POUND  CAKE. 

Eight  eggs. 

One  pint  of  powdered  sugar. 

One  pint  of  Indian  meal,  sifted,  and  half  a 

pint  of  wheat  flour. 
Half  a  pound  of  butter. 
One  nutmeg,  grated, — and  a  tea-spoonful 
'  of  cinnamon. 
Half  a  glass  of  mixed  wine  and  brandy. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream. 
Beat  the  eggs  very  light.  Stir  the  meal 
and  eggs,  alternately,  into  the  butter  and 
sugar.  Add  the  spice  and  liquor.  Stir 
all  well.  Butter  a  tin  pan,  put  in  the  mix- 
ture, and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

This  cake  should  be  eaten  while  fresh. 


GINGER  CUP  CAKE. 

Five  eggs. 

Two  large  tea-cups  foil  of  molasses. 
The  same  of  brown  sugar  rolled  fine. 
The  same  of  fresh  butter. 
One  cup  of  rich  milk. 
Five  cups  of  flour,  sifted. 
Half  a  cup  of  powdered  allspice  and  cloves. 
Half  a  cup  of  ginger. 

A  small  lea-spoonful  of  pearl-ash  melted  in 
vinegar. 

Cut  up  the  butter  in  the  milk,  and  warm 
them  sligiitly.  Warm  also  the  molasses, 
and  stir  it  into  the  milk  and  butter:  then 
stir  in,  gradually,  llie  sugar,  and  set  it 
away  to  get  cool. 

Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and  stir  them 
into  the  mixture  alternately  with  the  flour. 
Add  the  ginger  and  other  spice,  with  the 
pearl-ash,  and  stir  the  whole  very  hard. 

Butter  small  tins,  nearly  fdl  them  with 
the  mixture,  and  bake  the  cakes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 


PUTTER  BISCUITS. 

Half  a  pound  of  butter. 
Two  pounds  of  flour,  sifted. 
Half  a  pint  of  milk,  or  cold  water. 
A  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

Cut  up  the  butter  in  the  flour,  and  put 
the  salt  to  it.  Wet  it  to  a  stiiT  dough  with 
the  milk  or  water.   Mix  it  well  with  a  knife. 

Throw  some  flour  on  the  paste-board, 
take  the  dough  out  of  the  pan,  and  knead 
it  very  well. 


Roll  it  out  into  a  large  thick  sheet,  and 
beat  it  very  hard  on  both  sides  witli  the 
rolling-pin.     Beat  it  a  long  time. 

Cut  it  out  with  a  tin,  or  cup,  into  small 
round  thick  cakes.  Beat  each  cake  on 
both  sides,  with  the  rolling-pin.  Prick 
them  with  a  fork.  Put  them  in  buttered 
pans,  and  bake  them  of  a  light  brown  in  a 
slow  oven. 


LOAF  CAKE. 

Two  pounds  of  sifted  flour,  setting  aside 
half  a  pound  to  sprinkle  in  at  the  last. 

One  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

One  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

Four  eggs.. 

One  pound  raisins,  stoned,  and  cut  in  half. 

One  pound  of  currants,  washed  and  dried. 

Half  a  pint  of  milk. 

Half  a  glass  of  wine. 

Half  a  glass  of  brandy 

A  table-spoonful  of  mixed  spice,  mace,  nut- 
meg and  cinnamon. 

Half  a  pint  of  the  best  brewer's  yeast;  or 
more,  if  the  yeast  is  not  very  strong. 

Cut  up  the  butter  in  tlie  milk,  and  warm 
it  till  the  butter  is  quite  soft;  then  stir  it 
together,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  It  must 
not  be  made  too  warm.  After  you  have 
beaten  the  eggs,  mix  them  with  the  butter 
and  milk,  and  stir  the  whole  into  the  pan 
of  flour.  Add  the  spice  and  liquor,  and 
stir  in  the  sugar  gradually.  Having  poured 
off"  the  thin  part  from  the  top,  stir  the 
yeast,  and  pour  it  into  the  mixture.  Then 
sprinkle  in  the  remainder  of  the  flour. 

Have  ready  the  fruit,  which  must  be  well 
floured,  stir  it  gradually  into  the  mixture. 
Butter  a  large  tin  pan,  and  put  the  cake 
into  it.  Cover  it,  and  set  it  in  a  warm 
place  for  five  or  six  hours  to  rise.  When 
quite  light,  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

This  cake  is  best  the  day  it  is  baked. 


SUGAR  BISCUITS. 

Three  pounds  of  flour,  sifted. 

One  pound  of  butter. 

A  pound  and  a  half  of  powdered  sugar. 

Half  a  pint  of  milk. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy. 

A  small  tea-spoonful  of  pearl-ash  dissolved 

in  water. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  carraway  seeds. 

Cut  the  butter  into  the  flour.  Add  the 
sugar  and  carraway  seeds.  Pour  in  the 
brandy,  and  then  the  milk.  Lastly,  put  in 
the  pearl-ash.     Stir  all  well  with  a  knife. 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


and  mix  it  thoroughly,  till  it  becomes  a 
lump  of  dough. 

Flour  youi-  paste-board,  and  lay  the 
dough  on  it.  Knead  it  vei-y  well.  Divide 
it  into  eight  or  ten  pieces,  and  knead  each 
piece  separately.  Then  put  them  all  to- 
gether, and  knead  them  very  well  in  one 
lump. 

Cut  the  dough  in  half,  and  roll  it  out  into 
sheets,  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Beat  the 
sheets  of  dough  very  hard,  on  both  sides, 
with  the  rolling-pin.  Cut  them  out  into 
round  cakes  with  the  edge  of  a  tumbler. 
Butter  iron  pans,  and  lay  the  cakes  in  them. 
Bake  them  of  a  very  pale  brown.  If  done 
too  much,  they  will  lose  their  taste. 

Let  the  oven  be  hotter  at  the  top  than  at 
the  bottom. 

These  cakes  kept  in  a  stone  jar,  closely 
covered  from  the  air,  will  continue  perfect- 
ly good  for  several  months. 


GINGERBREAD    NUTS. 

Two  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour,  sifted. 

One  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

One  quart  of  sugar-house  molasses. 

Two  ounces  of  ginger,  or  more,  if  it  is 

not  very  strong. 
Twelve  dozen  grains  of  allspice,  \  powder- 
Six  dozen  cloves,  ?  ed  and 
Half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon,         '    sifted. 
A    half  tea-spoonful    of  pearl-ash   or   sal 

seratus,  dissolved  in  a  little  vinegar. 

Cut  up  the  butter  in  the  flour,  and  mix 
it  with  the  ginger  and  other  spice.  Wet 
the  whole  with  the  molasses,  and  stir  all 
well  together  with  a  knife.  Then  add  the 
dissolved  pearl-ash  or  sal  aeratus. 

Tlirow  some  flour  on  your  paste-board, 
take  the  dough  (a  large  handful  at  a  time) 
and  knead  it  in  separate  cakes.  Then  put 
all  together,  and  knead  it  very  hard  for  a 
long  lime,  in  one  large  lump.  Cut  the 
lump  in  half,  roll  it  out  in  two  even  sheets, 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  it  out  in 
little  cakes,  with  a  very  small  tin,  about 
the  size  of  a  cent.  Lay  them  in  buttered 
pans,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven, 
taking  care  they  do  not  scorch,  as  ginger- 
bread is  more  liable  to  burn  than  any  oUier 
cake. 

The  oven  should  be  hottest  at  top. 

You  may,  if  you  choose,  shajje  the  gin- 
gerbread nuts,  by  putting  flour  in  your 
hand,  taking  a  very  small  piece  of  the 
dough,  and  rolling  it  into  a  little  round 
ball. 

If  the  molasses  is  thin,  or  the  weather 
warm,  they  will  require  additional  flour. 

G  ingerbread  nuts  are  best  when  a  week 
old. 


MILK   BISCUITS., 

Two  pounds  of  flour,  sifted. 
Half  a  pound  of  butter. 
Two  eggs. 

Six  wine-glasses  of  milk. 
Two  wine-glasses  of  the  best  brewer's  yeast, 
or  three  of  good  home-made  yeast. 

Cut  the  butter  into  the  milk,  and  warm 
it  slightly  on  the  top  of  the  stove,  or  near 
the  fire.  Sift  the  flour  into  a  pan,  and 
pour  the  milk  and  butter  into  it.  Beat  the 
eggs,  and  pour  them  in  also.  Lastly  the 
yeast.     Mix  all  well  together  with  a  knife. 

Flour  your  paste-board,  put  the  lump  of 
dough  on  it,  and  knead  it  very  hard.  Then 
cut  the  dough  in  small  pieces,  and  knead 
them  into  round  balls.  Stick  the  tops  of 
them  with  a  fork. 

Lay  them  in  buttered  pans  and  set  thern 
to  rise.  They  will  probably  be  light  in  an 
hour.  When  they  are  quite  light,  put 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  them. 

They  are  best  when  quite  fresh. 


COMMON  GINGERBREAD. 

A  pint  of  molasses. 

One  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

Two  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour,  sifted. 

A  pint  of  milk. 

A  small  tea-spoonful  of  pearl-ash,  or 

if  it  is  strong. 
A  tea-cup  full  of  ginger. 

Cut  the  butter  into  the  flour.  Add  the 
ginger. 

Having  dissolved  the  pearl-ash  in  a  little 
vinegar,  stir  it  with  the  milk  and  molasses 
alternately  into  the  other  ingredients.  Stir 
it  very  hard  for  a  long  time,  till  it  is  quite 
light. 

Put  some  flour  on  your  paste-board,  take 
out  small  portions  of  the  dough,  and  make 
it  with  your  hand  into  long  rolls.  Then 
curl  up  the  rolls  into  round  cakes,  or  twist 
two  rolls  together,  or  lay  tliem  in  straight 
lengths  or  sticks  side  by  side,  and  touching 
each  other.  Put  iliem  carefully  in  buttered 
pans,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven, 
not  hot  enough  to  burn  them.  If  they 
should  get  scorched,  scrape  off  with  a 
knife,  or  grater,  all  the  burnt  parts,  before 
you  put  the  cakes  away. 

You  can,  if  you  choose,  cut  out  the 
dough  with  tins,  in  the  shape  of  hearts, 
circles,  ovals,  &c.  or  you  may  bake  it 
all  in  one,  and  cut  it  in  squares  when 
cold. 


If  the  mixture  appears  to  be  too  thin, 
add,  gradually,  a  little  more  sifted  flour. 


24 


CAKES.  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


LAFAYETTE  GINGERBREAD; 

Five  eggs. 

Half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar. 

Half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

A  pint  of  sugar-house  molasses. 

A  pound  and  a  half  of  flour. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  ginger. 

Two  large  sticks  of  cinnamon,  n         a   •  a 

Three  dozen  grains  of  allspice,  > '     ,    -r.    i 
rrr,  ,  r    1  S  and  silted. 

1  nree  dozen  oi  cloves,  •' 

The  juice  and  grated  peel    of  two    large 

lemons. 

A  little  pearl-ash  or  sal  jeratus. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream. 
Beat  the  eggs  very  well.  Pour  the  molas- 
ses, at  once,  into  tiie  butter  and  sugar. 
Add  the  ginger  and  other  spice,  and  stir 
all  well  together. 

Put  in  the  egg  and  flour  alternately,  stir- 
ring all  the  time.  Stir  the  whole  very  hard, 
and  put  in  the  lemon  at  the  last.  Wiien 
the  whole  is  mixed,  stir  it  till  very  light. 

Butler  an  earthen  pan,  or  a  tiiick  tin  or 
iron  one,  and  put  the  gingerbread  in  it. 
Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  an  hour  oi" 
more,  according  to  its  thickness.  Take 
care  that  it  do  not  burn. 

Or  you  may  bake  it  in  small  cakes j  or 
little  tins. 

Its  lightness  will  be  much  improved  by  a 
small  tea-spoonful  of  pearl-ash  dissolved  in 
a  tea-spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  stirred  lightly 
in  at  the  lasti  If  the  pearl-ash  is  strong,  half 
a  tea-spoonful  will  be  sufficient,  or  less  even 
will  do.  It  is  I)etter  to  stir  the  pearl-ash 
in,  a  little  at  a  time,  and  you  can  tell  by 
the  taste  of  the  mixture,  when  there  is 
enough.  Too  much  pearl-asiij  will  give  it 
an  unpleasant  taste. 

If  you  use  pearl-ash,  you  must  omit  the 
lemon,  as  its  taste  will  be  entirely  destroy- 
ed by  the  pearl-ash.  Yf)U  may  substitute 
for  the  lemon,  some  raisins  and  currants, 
well  floured  to  prevent  their  sinking. 

This  is  the  finest  of  all  gingeibread,  but 
should  not  be  kept  long,  as  in  a  few  da3s 
it  becomes  very  hard  and  stale.  It  is  best 
the  day  it  is  baked. 


NEW-YEAR'S  CAKE. 

Seven  pounds  of  flour,  sifted. 
Half  a  pound  of  butter. 
Half  a  pound  of  lard. 

Two  pounds  and  a  half  of  white  Havanna 
sugars 


Having  sifted  the  flour,  spread  the  sugar 
on  the  paste-ljoard,  a  little  at  a  timcj  and 
crush  it  to  powder  by  rolling  it  with  the 


rolling-pin.  Then  mix  it  with  the  flouri 
Cut  up  in  the  flour  the  butter  and  the  lard, 
and  mix  it  well  by  rubbing  it  in  with  your 
hands.  Add  by  degrees  enough  of  cold 
water  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Then  knead 
the  dough  very  hard,  till  it  no  longer  sticks 
to  your  hands.  Cover  it,  set  it  away  for 
an  hour  or  two,  and  then  knead  it  again 
in  the  same  manner.  You  may  repeat  the 
kneading  several  times.  Then  cut  it  into 
pieces,  roll  out  each  piece  into  a  sheet  half 
an  inch  thick.  Cut  it  into  large  flat  cakes 
with  a  tin  cutter.  You  may  stamp  each 
cake  with  a  wooden  print,  by  way  of  or- 
namenting the  surface. 

Spiinkle  with  flour  some  large  flat  tin 
or  iron  pans,  lay  the  cakes  in  them  and 
bake  them  of  a  pale  brown>  in  an  oven  of 
equal  heat  throughout. 

These  cakes  require  more  and  harder 
kneading  than  any  others,  therefore  it  is 
best  to  have  them  kneaded  by  a  man,  or  a 
very  strong  woman; 

They  are  greatly  improved  by  the  addi- 
tion of  some  carraway  seeds  worked  into 
the  dough. 


A   DOVER  CAKE. 

Half  a  pint  of  milk. 

A  half  tea-spoonful  of  pearl-ash,  dissolved 

in  a  little  vinegar. 
One  pound  of  sifted  flour. 
One  jwund  of  jx>vvdered  white  sugar* 
Half  a  pound  of  buttert 
Six  eggsi 

One  glass  of  brandyj 
Half  a  glass  of  rose-water. 
One  grated  nutmeg. 
A  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon. 

Dissolve  the  pearl-ash  in  vinegar.  Stir 
the  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add 
to  it  gradually,  the  spice  and  liquor.  Beat 
the  eggs  very  light,  and  stir  them  into  tJid 
butter  and  sugar,  alternately,  witiithe  flour; 
Add,  gradually,  the  milk,  and  stir  the 
whole  very  hard. 

Butter  a  large  tin  pan,  and  put  in  th6 
mixture.  Bake  it  two  hours  or  morcj  in  a 
moderate  oven.  If  not  thick,  an  hour  or 
an  hour  and  a  half  will  be  sufticient. 

Wrap  it  in  a  thick  cloth,  and  keep  it 
from  the  air,  and  it  will  continue  moist  and 
fresh  for  two  weeks.  The  pearl-ash  will 
give  it  a  dark  color. 

It  will  be  much  improved  by  a  pound  of 
raisins,  btoned  and  cut  in  half,  and  a  pound 
of  ciUTants,  well  washed  and  dried. 

Flour  the  fruit  well,  and  stir  it  in  at  the 
last; 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND  GINGERBREAD. 


•2:5' 


CRULLERS. 


iTalf  a  pound  of  butter. 

Three  quarters  of  a   pound   of  powdered 

white  sugar. 
Six  eggs,  or  seven  if  they  are  small. 
Two  pounds  of  flour,  sitted. 
A  grated  nutmeg. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon. 
A  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

Cut  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the 
sugar  and  spice,  and  mix  them  well  to- 
gether. 

Beat  the  eggs,  and  pour  them  into  the 
pan  of  flour,  &c.  Add  the  rose-water,  and 
mix  the  whole  into  a  dough.  If  the  eggs 
and  rose-water  ai"e  not  found  sufficient  to 
wet  it,  add  a  very  little  cold  water.  Mix 
the  (lough  very  well  with  a  knife. 

Spread  some  flour  on  your  paste-board, 
take  the  dough  out  of  the  pan,  and  knead 
it  very  well.  Cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and 
knead  each  separately,  i'lit  ail  the  pieces 
together,  and  knead  the  uhjle  in  one  lump. 
Roll  it  out  into  a  large  square  sheet,  about 
half  an  inch  thick.  Take  a  jagging-iron, 
or,  if  you  have  not  one,  a  sharp  knife;  run 
it  along  the  slieet,  and  cut  the  dough  into 
long  narrow  slips.  Twist  them  up  in  va- 
rious forms.  Have  ready  an  iron  pan 
with  melted  lard.  Lay  the  crullers  lightly 
in  it,  and  fry  them  of  a  light  brown,  turn- 
ing them  with  a  knife  and  fork,  so  as  not 
to  break  them,  and  taking  care  that  both 
sides  are  cquiilly  done. 

When  sufficiently  fried,  spread  them  on 
a  large  dish  to  cool,  and  grate  loaf-sugar 
over  them. 

Crullers  may  be  made  in  a  plainer  way, 
with  tlie  best  brown  sugar,  (rolled  very 
iine,)  and  without  spice  or  rose-water. 

They  can  be  fried,  or  latlior  boiled,  iii  a 
deep  iron  pot.  They  shuuld  be  d(Mie  in  a 
large  quantity  of  lard,  and  taken  out  with 
a  skimmer  that  has  holes  in  it,auJ  held  on 
the  skimmer  till  the  lard  diains  from  them. 
If  for  family  use,  they  can  be  made  an  inch 
thick.  They  will  keep  several  days,  and 
be  as  good  as  when  fresh. 


WAFFLES. 

Six  eggs. 

A  pint  of  milk. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter. 

A  quarter  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar. 

A  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  sifted. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon. 

Warm  the  milk  slightly.     Cut   up  the 
butter   in  it  and  stir  it  a  little.     Beat  the 
«gg3  well,  and  pour  them  into  the  butter 
C 


and   milk.      Sprinkle   in   half  the  flouf) 

gradually.  Stir  in  the  sugar,  by  degrees, 
and  add  the  spice.  Stir  in,  gradually,  the 
remainder  of  the  flour,  so  that  it  becomes 
a  thick  batter. 

Heat  your  wafile-iron;  then  grease  it 
well,  and  pour  in  some  of  the  batter.  Shut 
the  iron  tight»  and  bake  the  waffle  on  both 
sides,  by  turning  the  iron. 

As  the  waflies  are  baked,  spread  them 
out  separately  on  a  clean  napkin.  When 
enough  are  done  for  a  plate-full,  lay  them 
on  a  plate  in  two  piles,  buttering  them, 
and  sprinkling  each  with  beaten  cinnamon. 


DOUGH-NUTS. 

Three  pounds  of  sifted  flour. 

A  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

Three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter. 

Four  eggs. 

Half  a  iarge  tea-cup  full  of  best  brewer's 

yeast. 
A  pint  and  a  half  of  milk. 
A  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon. 
A  grated  nutmeg. 
A  table-spoonful  of  rose-water. 

Cut  up  the  butter  in  the  flour.  Add  the 
sugar,  spice,  and  rose-water.  Beat  the 
eggs  very  light,  and  pour  them  into  the 
mixture.  Add  the  yeast,  (half  a  tea-cup 
or  two  wine-glasses  full,)  and  then  stir  in 
iha  uiiik  by  degrees,  sf)  ix-j  to  make  it  a  soft 
dough.     Cover  it,  and  set  it  to  rise. 

When  quite  light,  cut  it  in  diamonds 
with  a  jagging-iron  or  a  sharp  knife,  and 
fry  them  in  lard.  Grate  loaf-sugar  over 
them  wiien  done. 


SOFT  MUFFINS. 

Five  eggs. 

A  quart  of  milk. 

Two  ounces  of  butter. 

A  t«a-spoonful  of  salt.  " 

Two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  brewer's yeasl 

or  four  of  home-made  yeast. 
Enough  of  sifted  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter. 

Warm  the  milk  and  butter  togedier,  and 
add  to  them  the  .salt.  Beat  the  eggs  very 
light  and  stir  them  into  the  milk  and  but'- 
ter.  Then  stir  in  the  yeast,  and  lastly, 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter. 

Cover  the  mixture,  and  set  it  to  rise,  in 
a  warm  place,  aliout  three  hours. 

When  it  is  quite  light,  grease  your  bak" 
ing-iron,  and  your  nuiffin  rings.  Set  the 
rings  on  the  iron,  and  pour  the  batter  into 
them.  Bake  them  a  light  brown.  When 
you  split  them  to  put  on  the  butter,  do  not 


36 


CAKES,  NUTS,  AND    GINGERBREAD. 


cut  them  with  a  knife,  but  pull  them  open 
with  your  hands.  Cutting  them  while  hot 
will  make  them  heavy. 


INDIAN  BATTER  CAKES. 


A  quart  of  sifted  Indian  meal,    \ 

A  handful  of  wheat  flour  sifted,  >  mixed. 

Three  eggs,  well  beaten,  ' 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  fresh  brewer's  yeast, 

or  four  of  home-made  yeast. 
A  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
A  quart  of  milk. 

Make  the  milk  quite  warm,  and  then 
put  into  it  the  yeast  and  salt,  stirring  them 
well.  Beat  the  eggs,  and  stir  tlieni  into 
the  mixture.  Then,  gradually,  stir  in  the 
flour  and  Indian  meal. 

Cover  the  batter,  and  set  it  to  rise  four 
or  five  hours.  Or  if  ihe  weather  is  cold, 
and  you  want  the  cakes  for  breakfast,  you 
may  mix  the  batter  late  the  night  befoie. 

Should  you  find  it  sour  in  the  morning, 
dissolve  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  pearl-ash 
in  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it,  and  stir 
it  into  the  batter,  letting  it  set  afterwards 
at  least  half  an  hour.  This  will  take  oft' 
the  acid. 

Grease  your  baking-iron,  and  pour  on 
it  a  ladle-fiill  of  the  batter.  When  brown 
on  one  side,  turn  the  cake  on  the  other. 

Indian  batter  cakes  may  be  made  in  a 
plain  and  expeditious  way,  by  putting  three 
pints  of  cold  water  or  cold  milk  into  a 
pan,  and  gradually  sifting  into  it  (stirring 
all  the  time)  a  quart  of  Indian  meal  mixed 
with  half  a  pint  of  wheat-flour,  and  a  small 
spoonful  of  salt.  Stir  it  very  hard,  and  it 
may  be  baked  immediately,  as  it  is  not  ne- 
cessary to  set  it  to  rise. 


CREAM  CAKES. 

A  quart  of  cream.  . 

Four  eggs. 

Sifted  flour  sufficient  for  a  thick  batter. 

A  small   tea-spoonful   of  pearl-ash,   or   a 

larger  one  of  sal-aeratus. 
A  small  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  four  eggs  till  very  light,  and  stir 
them  by  degrees  into  a  quart  of  cream. 
Add,  gradually,  enough  of  sifted  flour  to 
make  a  thick  batter.  Put  in  the  salt. 
Dissolve  the  pearl-ash  in  as  much  vinegar 
as  will  cover  it,  and  stir  it  in  at  the  last. 

Bake  the  mixture  in  muflin-rings.  Send 
the  cakes  to  table  quite  hot.  TuU  them 
open,  and  butter  them. 

For  these  cakes  sour  cream  is  better  than 
sweet. 


FLANNEL  CAKES  OR  CRUMPETS. 

Two  pounds  of  flour,  sifted. 

Four  eggs. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  best  brewer's 

yeast,  or  four  and  a  half  of  home-made 

yeast. 
A  pint  of  milk. 

Mix  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  with  the  flour, 
and  set  the  pan  before  the  fire.  Then  warm 
the  milk,  and  stir  into  it  the  flour,  so  as 
to  make  a  stiff"  batter.  Beat  the  eggs  very 
light,  and  stir  them  into  the  yfiast.  Add 
the  eggs  and  yeast  to  the  batter,  and  beat 
all  well  together.  If  it  is  too  stiff",  add  a 
little  more  warm  milk. 

Cover  the  pan  closely  and  set  it  to  rise 
near  the  fire.     Bake  it,  when  quite  light. 

Have  your  baking-iron  hot.  Grease  it, 
and  pour  on  a  ladle-full  of  batter.  Let  it 
bake  slowly,  and  when  done  on  one  side, 
turn  it  on  the  other. 

Butter  the  cakes,  cut  them  across,  and 
send  them  to  table  hot. 


ROLLS. 

Three  pints  of  flour,  sifted. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  the  best  brewer's 

yeast,  or  six  of  home-made  yeast. 
A  pint  of  hike-warm  water. 
Half  a  pint  more  of  warm  water,  and  a 

little   more   flour   to   mix  in  before  the 

kneading. 

Mix  the  salt  with  the  flour,  and  make  a 
deep  hole  in  the  middle.  Stir  the  warm 
water  into  the  yeast,  and  pour  it  into  the 
hole  in  the  flour.  Stir  it  with  a  spoon  just 
enough  to  make  a  thin  batter,  and  sprinkle 
some  flour  over  the  top.  Cover  the  pan, 
and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  for  several  hours. 

When  it  is  light,  add  half  a  pint  more 
of  luke-warm  water;  and  make  it,  with  a 
little  more  flour,  into  a  dough.  Knead  it 
very  well  for  ten  minutes.  Then  divide  it 
into  small  pieces,  and  knead  each  separate- 
ly. Make  them  into  round  cakes  or  rolls. 
Cover  them,  and  set  them  to  rise  about  an 
hour  and  a  lialf. 

Bake  them,  and  when  done,  let  them  re- 
main in  the  oven,  without  the  lid,  for  about 
ten  minutes. 


RICE  CAKES  FOR  BREAKFAST. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  soak  over 
night.  Early  in  the  morning  boil  it  very 
soft,  drain  it  from  the  water,  mix  with  it 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  set  it 


SWEETMEATS  AND  JELLIES. 


27 


away  to  cool.  When  it  is  cold,  stir  it  into 
a  quart  of  milk,  and  add  a  very  little  salt. 
Beat  six  eggs,  and  sift  half  a  pint  of  flour. 
Stir  the  egg  and  flour  alternately  into  the 
rice  and  milk.  Having  beaten  the  whole 
very  well,  bake  it  on  the  griddle  in  cakes 
about  the  size  of  a  small  dessert-plate. 
Butter  them,  and  send  them  to  table  hot. 


JELLY  CAKE. 

Stir  together  till  very  light,  half  a  pound 
of  fresh  butter  and  half  a  pound  of  pow- 
dered white  sugar.  Beat  twelve  eggs  very 
light,  and  stir  ihem  into  the  butter  and  su- 
gar, alternately  with  a  pound  of  sifted  flour. 
Add  a  beaten  nutmeg,  and  half  a  wine- 
glass of  rose-water.     Have   ready   a   flat 


circular  plate  of  tin,  which  must  be  laid 
on  your  griddle,  or  in  the  oven  of  your 
stove,  and  well  greased  with  butter.  Pour 
on  it  a  large  ladle-full  of  the  batter,  and 
bake  it  as  you  would  a  buck-wheat  cake, 
taking  care  to  have  it  of  a  good  shape. 
It  will  not  require  turning.  Bake  as  many 
of  the.se  cakes  as  you  want,  laying  each  on 
a  separate  plate.  Then  spread  jelly  or 
marmalade  all  over  the  top  of  each  cake, 
and  lay  another  upon  it.  Spread  that  also 
with  jelly,  and  so  on  till  you  have  a  pile 
of  five  or  six,  looking  like  one  large  thick 
cake.  Trim  the  edge  nicely  with  a  pen- 
knife, and  cover  the  top  with  powdered 
sugar.  Or  you  may  ice  it;  putting  on  the 
nonpareils  or  sugar-sand  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  mark  out  the  cake  in  triangular  di- 
visions. When  it  is  to  be  eaten,  cut  it  in 
three-cornered  slices  as  you  would  a  pie. 


SWEETMEATS  AND  JELLIES. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS. 

In  preparing  sugar  for  sweetmeats,  let  it  be  entirely  dissolved, 
before  you  put  it  on  the  fire.  If  you  dissolve  it  in  water,  allow 
about  half  a  pint  of  water  to  a  pound  of  sugar. 

If  you  boil  the  sugar  before  you  add  the  fruit  to  it,  it  will  be 
improved  in  clearness  by  passing  it  through  a  flannel  bag.  Skim 
off  the  brown  scum,  all  the  time  it  is  boiling. 

If  sweetmeats  are  boiled  too  long,  they  lose  their  flavor  and 
become  of  a  dark  color. 

If  boiled  too  short  a  time,  they  will  not  keep  well. 

You  may  ascertain  when  jelly  is  done,  by  dropping  a  small 
spoonful  into  a  glass  of  water. 

If  it  spreads  and  mixes  with  the  water,  it  requires  more  boiling. 
If  it  sinks  in  a  lump  to  the  bottom,  it  is  sufficiently  done.  This 
trial  must  be  made  after  the  jelly  is  cold. 

Raspberry  jelly  requires  more  boiling  than  any  other  sort. 
Black  currant  jelly  less. 

Keep  your  sweetmeats  in  glass  jars,  or  in  those  of  white  queen's 
ware. 


SWEETMEATS  AND  JELLIES. 


BLANCMANGE. 

Four  calf's  feet. 

A  pint  and  a  half  of  thick  cream.* 

Half  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar,  broken  up. 

A  glass  of  wine. 

Half  a  glass  of  rose-water. 

A  tea-spoonful  of  mace,  beaten  and  sifted. 

Get  four  calf's-feet;  if  possible  some 
that  have  been  scalded,  and  not  skinned. 
Scrape,  and  clean  them  well,  and  boil  them 
in  three  quarts  of  water  till  all  the  meat 
drops  off  the  bone.  Drain  the  liquid 
through  a  colander  or  sieve,  and  skim  it 
well.  Let  it  stand  till  next  morning  to 
congeal.  Then  clean  it  well  from  the  sed- 
iment, and  put  it  into  a  tin  or  bell-metal 
kettle.  Stir  into  it,  the  cream,  sugar,  and 
mace.  Boil  it  hard  for  (ive  minutes,  stir- 
ring it  several  times.  Then  strain  it 
through  a  linen  cloth  or  napkin  into  a 
large  bowl,  and  add  the  wine  and  rose- 
water. 

Set  it  in  a  cool  place  for  three  or  four 
hours,  stirring  it  very  frequently  with  a 
spoon,  to  prevent  the  cream  from  separat- 
ing from  the  jelly.  The  more  it  is  stirred 
the  better.     Stir  it  till  it  is  cool. 

Wash  your  moulds,  wipe  them  dry,  and 
then  wet  them  with  cold  water.  When  the 
blancmange  becomes  very  thick,  (that  is, 
in  three  or  four  hours,  if  tlie  weather  is  not 
too  damp)  put  it  into  your  moulds. 

When  it  has  set  in  them  till  it  is  quite 
firm,  loosen  it  carefully  all  round  with  a 
knife,  and  turn  it  out  on  glass  or  china 
plates. 

If  you  wish  to  make  it  with  almonds, 
take  an  ounce  of  blanched  bitter  almonds, 
and  two  ounces  of  sweet.  Beat  them  in  a 
mortar  to  a  fine  paste,  pouring  in  occasion- 
ally a  little  rose-water.  When  the  mixture 
is  ready  to  boil,  add  the  ahnonds  to  it  grad- 
ually, stirring  them  well  in.  Or  you  may 
stir  them  in,  while  it  is  cooling  in  the 
bowl. 

If  it  inclines  to  slick  to  the  moulds,  set 
them  an  instant  in  hot  water.  It  will  then 
turn  out  easily. 

If  you  choose  to  make  it  without  calf's 
feet,  you  can  substitute  an  ounce  of  the  best 
and  clearest  isinglass  (or,  if  in  summer,  an 
ounce  and  a  quarter)  boiled  with  the  other 
ingredients.  If  made  with  isinglass,  you 
must  use  two  ounces  of  sweet,  and  an  ounce 
of  bitter  ahnonds,  with  the  addition  of  the 
grated  rind  of  a  large  lemon,  and  a  large 
stick  of  cinnamon,  broken  up,  a  glass  of 
wine,  and  half  a  glass  of  rose-water.  These 


*  Blancmange  is  greatly  improved  by  boiling 
in  the  cream  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds  brok- 
en in  pieces,  or  a  handful  of  peacli-leaves. 


ingredients  must  be  all  mixed  together,  with 
a  quart  of  cream,  and  boiled  haid  for  five 
minutes.  The  mixture  must  then  be  strain- 
ed through  a  napkin,  into  a  large  bowl. 
Set  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  stir  it  frequently 
till  nearly  cold.  It  must  then  be  put  into 
the  moulds. 

You  may  substitute  for  the  almonds, 
half  a  gill  of  noyau,  in  which  case,  omit 
the  wine. 


CALF^S-FEET  JELLY. 

Eight  calf's  feet. 

Three  quarts  of  water. 

A  pint  of  white  wine. 

Three  lemons. 

The  vi^hites  of  six  eggs. 

Half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon. 

Half  pound  loaf-sugar,  broken  into  lumps. 

Endeavor  to  procure  calf's-feet,  that 
have  been  nicely  scalded,  but  not  skinned, 
as  the  skin  being  left  on,  makes  the  jelly 
much  firmer. 

The  day  before  you  want  to  use  the  jelly, 
boil  the  eight  calf's-feet  in  three  quarts  of 
waier,  till  the  meat  drops  from  the  bone. 
When  sufficiently  done,  put  it  into  a  colan- 
der or  sieve,  and  let  the  liquid  drain  from 
the  meat,  into  a  broad  pan  or  dish.  Skim 
off  the  fat.  Let  the  jtlly  stand  till  next 
day,  and  then  carefully  scrape  off  the  sedi- 
ment from  the  bottom.  It  will  be  a  firm 
jelly,  if  too  much  water  has  not  been  used, 
and  if  it  has  boiled  long  enough.  If  it  is. 
not  firm  at  first,  it  will  not  become  so  af- 
terwards when  boiled  with  the  other  ingre- 
dients. There  should  on  no  account  be 
more  than  three  quarts  of  water. 

Early  next  morning,  put  the  jelly  into  a 
tin  kettle,  or  covered  tin  pan  j  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  melt  it  a  little.  Take  it  off,  and 
season  it  with  the  cinnamon  slightly  broken, 
a  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  three  lemons  cut 
in  thin  slices,  and  half  a  pound  of  loaf- 
sugar,  broken  up, 

U  yi>u  w  ish  it  high-coloj-ed,  add  two  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  French  brandy.  Mix  all 
well  together.  Beat,  slightly,  the  whites 
of  six  eggs  (saving  the  egg-shell)  and  stir 
the  whites  into  tiie  jelly.  Break  up  the 
egg-shells  into  very  small  pieces,  and  throw 
them  in  also.  Stir  the  whole  very  well 
together. 

Set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  it  hard  five 
miiuites,  but  do  not  stir  it,  as  that  will  pre- 
vent its  clearing.  Have  ready  a  large 
white  flannel  bag,  the  top  wide,  and  the 
bottom  tapering  to  a  point. 

Tie  the  bag  to  the  backs  of  two  chairs, 
or  to  the  legs  of  a  table,  and  set  a  white 
dish  or  a  mould  under  it- 
After  the  jelly  ha$  boiled  five  roinyteSj 


SWEETMEATS. 


pour  it  hot  into  the  bag,  and  let  it  drip 
through  into  the  dish.  Do  not  squeeze  tlie 
bag,  as  that  will  make  the  jelly  dull  and 
cloudy. 

If  it  is  not  clear  the  first  time  it  passes 
through  the  bag,  empty  out  alP  the  ingre- 
dients, wash  the  bag,  suspend  it  again,  put 
another  white  dish  under  it,  pour  tlie  jelly 
back  into  the  bag,  and  let  it  drip  through 
again.  Repeat  this  six  or  eight  times,  or 
till  it  is  clear,  putting  a  clean  dish  under  it 
every  time.  If  it  does  not  drip  freely, 
move  the  bag  into  a  warmer  place. 

When  the  jelly  has  all  dripped  through 
the  bag,  and  is  clear,  set  it  in  a  cool  place 
to  congeal.  It  will  sometimes  congeal  im- 
mediately, and  sometimes  not  for  several 
hours,  particularly  if  the  weather  is  warm 
and  damp.  If  the  weather  is  very  cold  von 
must  take  care  not  to  let  it  freeze.  When 
it  is  quite  firm,  which  perhaps  it  will  not 
be  till  evening,  fill  your  glasses  with  it, 
piling  it  up  very  high.  If  you  make  it  in 
a  mould,  you  must  either  set  the  mould  un- 
der the  bag  while  it  is  dripping,  or  pour 
it  from  the  dish  into  the  mould  while  it  is 
liquid.  When  it  is  perfectly  congealed, 
dip  the  mould  for  an  instant  in  Ijoiling  water 
to  loosen  the  jelly.  Turn  it  out  on  a  glass 
dish. 

This  quantity  of  ingredients  will  make 
a  quart  of  jelly  when  finished.  In  cool 
weather  it  maybe  made  a  day  or  two  before 
it  is  wanted. 

You  may  increa.se  the  seasoning,  (that  is, 
the  wine,  lemon,  and  cinnamon,,)  according 
to  your  taste,  but  less  than  the  above  pro- 
portion will  not  be  sufficient  to  flavor  the 


'"t 


Ice  jelly  is  made  in  the  same  manner, 
only  not  so  stiff.  Four  calves-feet  will  Ixi 
sufficient.  Freeze  it  as  you  would  ice- 
cream, and  serve  it  up  in  glacises. 


APPLE  JELLY. 

Take  the  best  pippin,  or  bell-fl(nver  ap- 
ples. No  others  will  make  good  jelly, 
rare,  core,  and  (juarter  them.  Lay  them 
in  a  preserving  kettle,  and  put  to  them  as 
much  water  only,  as  will  cover  tiiem,  and 
as  much  lemon-peel  as  you  choose.  Boil 
them  till  they  are  soft,  but  not  till  they 
break.  Drain  off  the  water  through  a  co- 
lander, and  mash  the  apples  with  the  back 
of  a  spoon.  Put  them  into  a  jelly-bag,  set 
a  deep  dish  or  pan  under  it,  and  squeeze  out 
the  juice. 

To  every  pint  of  juice,  allow  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar,  broken  up,  and  the  juice  of 
two  lemons.  Put  the  apple-juice,  the  su- 
gar, and  the  lemon-juice,  into  the  preserv- 
ing kettle.  Boil  it  twenty  minutes,  skim- 
ming it  well.  Take  it  immediately  from 
C2 


the  kettle,  and  pour  it  warm  into  your 
glasses,  but  not  so  hot  as  to  break  them. 
When  cold,  cover  each  glass  with  white 
paper  dipped  in  brandy,  and  tie  it  down 
tight  with  another  paper.  Keep  them  in  a 
cool  place. 

Quince  Jelly  is  made  in  the  same  man- 
ner, but  do  not  pare  the  quinces.  Quarter 
them  only. 


RED  CURHANT  JELLY. 

Wash  your  currants,  drain  them,  and 
pick  them  from  the  stalks.  Mash  them 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon.  Put  them  in  a 
jelly-bag,  and  squeeze  it  till  all  tlie  juice  is 
pressed  out. 

To  every  pint  of  juice,  allow  a  pound  of 
the  best  loaf-sugar.  Put  the  juice  and  the 
sugiir  into  your  kettle,  and  boil  them  twen- 
ty minutes,  skimming  all  the  while.  Pom- 
it  warm  into  your  glasses,  and  when  cold, 
tie  it  up  witli  brandy  paper.  Jellies  should 
never  be  allowed  to  get  cold  in  the  kettle. 
If  boiled  too  long,  they  will  lose  their  fla- 
vor, and  become  of  a  dark  color. 

Strawberry,  raspberry,  blackberry,  and 
grape  jelly  may  be  made  in  the  same  man- 
ner, and  with  the  same  proportion  of  loaf- 
sugarv 

Red  cui'rant  jelly  may  also  be  made  in  a 
\ery  simple  manner,  by  putting  the  currants 
whole  into  the  kettle,  with  the  sugar;  al- 
lowing a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  cur- 
rants. Boil  thom  together  twenty  minutes, 
skinvning  carefully.  Then  pour  them  into 
a  sieve,  with  a  pan  under  it.  Let  them 
drain  thnjugh  the  sieve  into  the  pan,  press- 
ing them  down  with  the  back  of  a  spoon. 

Take  the  jelly,  while  warm,  out  of  the 
pan,  and  put  it  into  your  glasses.  Tie  it 
up  with  brandy  paper  when  cold. 

This  jelly  is  best  made  of  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  red  and  white  currants. 


BLACK   CURRANT  JELLY. 

Pick  the  currants  from  the  stalks,  wash 
and  drain  them.  Mash  them  soft  with  a 
spoon,  put  tiiem  in  a  bag,  and  squeeze  out 
tlie  juice.  To  each  pint  of  juice,  allow 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar. 
Put  the  juice  and  sugar  into  a  preserving 
kettle,  and  boil  them  about  ten  minutes, 
skimming  them  welL  Take  it  immediate- 
ly out  of  the  kettle.  Put  it  warm  into 
your  glasses.     Tie  it  up  with  brandy  paper. 

The  juice  of  black  currants  is  so  very 
thick,  that  it  recjuires  less  sugar  and  less 
boiling  than  any  other  jelly. 


-w 


30 


SWEETMEATS. 


GOOSEBERRY  JELLY. 


Cut  the  gooseberries  in  half,  (they  must 
be  green)  and  put  them  in  a  jar  closely 
covered.  Set  the  jar  in  an  oven,  or  pot 
filled  with  boiling  water.  Keep  the  water 
boiling  round  the  jar  till  the  gooseberries 
are  soft,  take  them  out,  mash  them  with  a 
spoon,  and  put  tliem  into  a  jelly-bag  to 
drain.  When  all  the  juice  is  squeezed  out, 
measure  it,  and  to  a  pint  of  juice,  allow  a 
poimd  of  loaf-sugar.  Put  the  juice  and 
sugar  into  the  preserving  kettle,  and  boil 
them  twenty  minutes,  skimming  carefully. 
Put  the  jelly  warm  into  your  glasses.  Tie 
them  up  with  brandy  paper. 

Cranberry  jelly  is  made  in  the  same 
manner. 


GRAPE   JELLY. 

Pick  the  grapes  from  the  stems,  wash 
and  drain  them.  Mash  them  with  a  spoon. 
Put  them  in  the  preserving  kettle,  and  cov- 
er them  closely  with  a  large  plate.  Boil 
them  ten  minutes.  Then  pour  them  into 
your  jelly  bag,  and  squeeze  out  the  juice. 

Allow  a  pint  of  juice  to  a  pound  of  sugar. 
Put  the  sugar  and  juice  into  your  kettle, 
and  boil  them  twenty  minutes,  skimming 
them  well. 

Fill  your  glasses  while  the  jelly  is  warm, 
and  tie  them  up  with  brandy  |)apers. 


PEACH   JELLY. 

Wipe  the  wool  off  your  peaches,  (which 
should  be  free-stones  and  not  too  ripe)  and 
cut  tliem  in  quarters.  Crack  the  stones, 
and  break  the  kernels  small. 

Put  the  peache-s  and  the  kernels  into  a 
covered  jar,  set  them  in  boiling  water,  and 
let  them  boil  till  they  are  soft. 

Strain  them  throiigh  a  jel!y-bag,  till  all 
the  juice  is  squeezed  out.  Allow  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar  to  a  pint  of  juice.  Put  the 
sug.ir  and  juice  into  a  presersing  kettle, 
and  boil  them  twenty  minutes,  skimming 
carefully. 

Put  the  jelly  warm  into  y.ur  glasses,  and 
when  cold,  tie  thein  uj)  with  brandy  paper. 

Plum,  and  green-gage  jelly  may  be  made 
in  the  same  manner,  witli  the  kernels, 
which  greatly  improve  the  flavor. 


PRESERVED  QULNCES. 

Pare  and   core  your  quinces,   carefully 
taking  out  the  parts  that  are  knotty  and 


defective.  Cut  them  into  quarters,  or  into 
round  slices.  Put  them  into  a  preserving 
kettle,  and  cover  them  with  the  parino-s 
and  a  very  little  water.  Lay  a  large  plate 
over  them  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and  boil 
them  till  they  are  tender. 

Take  out  the  quinces,  and  strain  the 
liquor  through  a  bag.  To  every  pint  of 
liquor,  allow  a  pound  of  loaf-sug-ar.  Boil 
the  juice  and  sugar  together,  about  ten 
minutes,  skimming  it  well.  Then  put  in 
the  quinces,  and  boil  them  gently  twentv 
minutes.  When  the  sugar  seems  to  have 
completely  penetrated  them,  take  them  out, 
put  them  in  a  glass  jar,  and  pour  the  juice 
over  them  warm.  Tie  them  up,  when  cold, 
with  brandy  paper. 

In  preserving  fruit  that  is  boiled  first 
without  the  sugar,  it  is  generally  better 
(after  the  first  boiling)  to  let  it  stand  till 
next  day  before  you  put  the  sugar  to  it. 


PRESERVED  PIPPINS. 

Pare  and  core  some  of  the  largest  and 
finest  pippins.  Put  them  in  your  preserv- 
ing kettle,*  with  some  lemon-peel,  and  all 
the  apple-parings.  Add  a  very  little  water, 
and  cover  them  closely.  Boil  them  till 
they  are  tender,  taking  care  tliey  do  not 
burn.  Take  out  the  apples,  and  spread 
them  on  a  large  dish  to  cool.  Pour  the 
liquor  into  a  bag,  and  strain  it  well.  Put 
it  into  your  kettle  with  a  pound  of  loaf- 
sugar  to  each  pint  of  juice,  and  add  lemon 
juice  to  your  taste.  Boil  it  five  minutes, 
skimming  it  well.  Then  put  in  the  whole 
apples,  and  boil  them  slowly  half  an  hour, 
or  till  they  arc  quite  soft  and  clear.  Put 
them  with  the  juice,  into  your  jars,  and 
when  quite  cold,  tie  them  up  with  brandy 
paper. 

I'eserved  apples  are  only  intended  for 
present  use,  as  they  will  not  keep  long. 

Pears  may  Ije  done  in  the  same  way, 
either  whole  or  cut  in  half.  They  may  be 
flavored  either  with  lemon  or  cinnamon, 
or  bolh.  The  pears  for  preserving  should 
be  green. 


PRESERVED  PEACHES. 

Take  the  largest  and  finest  free-stone 
peaches,  before  they  are  too  ripe.     Pare 

*  Tlie  use  of  brass  or  bell  metal  kettles  is 
now  almost  entirely  superseded  by  the  enam- 
elled kettles  of  iron  lined  with  china,  called 
preserving  kettles  ;  brass  and  bell-metal  hav- 
ing always  been  objectionable  on  account  of 
the  verdigris  which  collects  in  them. 


SWEETMEATS 


31 


them,  and  cut  them  in  halves  or  in  quarters. 
Crack  the  stones,  and  take  ont  the  kernels, 
and  break  tlieui  in  pieces.  Put  the  peach- 
es, witli  the  parings  and  kernels,  into  your 
preserving  kettle,  with  a  very  little  water. 
Boil  them  till  they  are  tender.  Take  out 
the  peaches  and  spread  them  on  a  large 
dish  to  cool.  Strain  the  liquor  through  a 
bag  or  sieve.  JXext  day,  measure  the  juice, 
and  to  each  pint  allow  a  pound  of  loaf- 
sugar.  Put  tlie  juice  and  sugar  into  the 
kettle  with  the  peaches,  and  boil  them 
slowly  half  an  hour,  or  till  they  are  quite 
soft,  skiinming  all  the  time.  Take  the 
peaches  out,  put  them  into  your  jars,  and 
pour  the  warm  liquor  over  them.  When 
cold,  tie  them  up  with  brandy  paper. 

If  boiled  too  long,  they  will  look  dull, 
and  be  of  a  dark  color.* 

If  you  do  not  wish  the  juice  to  be  very 
thick,  do  not  put  it  on  to  boil  with  the 
sugar,  but  first  boil  the  sugar  alone,  with 
only  as  much  water  as  will  dissolve  it, 
and  skim  it  well.  Let  the  sugar,  in  all 
cases,  be  entirely  melted  before  it  goes  on 
the  lire.  Having  boiled  the  sugar  and 
water,  and  skimmed  it  to  a  clear  sirup, 
then  put  in  your  juice  and  fruit  together, 
aud  boil  them  till  completely  penetrated 
with  tlie  sugar. 


ANOTHER  WAY  OF  PRESERVING 
PEACHES. 

Take  large  juicy  ripe  free-stone  peaches, 
pare  them  and  cut  them  in  quarters.  Crack 
half  the  stones,  and  blanch  the  kernels  in 
scalding  water.  Weigh  the  peaches,  and 
to  each  pound  allow  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar. 
Mix  them  with  the  kernels,  lay  them  in  a 
deep  dish,  or  tureen,  and  mix  with  them 
also  the  sugar.  Cover  them  and  let  them 
set  all  night. 

In  the  morning  put  the  peaches  and  su- 
gar with  the  kernels  into  a  preserving  ket- 
tle, and  boil  them  till  soft  and  clear;  skim- 
ming tiiem  carefully.  Use  no  water,  as 
the  juice  that  has  been  drawn  out  while 
they  lay  in  the  sugar  will  be  sulticient. 

When  colJ,  put  them  in  jars  and  tie 
them  up  witli  brandy-paper,  leaving  the 
kernels  among  them. 

Green  gages  and  plums  may  be  done  in 
this  manner  when  quite  ripe,  using  also 
half  the  kernels. 


*  To  preserve  peaches  whole,  pare  them 
and  thrust  out  the  stones  with  a  skewer. 
Then  proceed  as  above,  only  blanch  the  ker- 
nels and  keep  them  whole.  When  the  peach- 
es are  done,  stick  a  kernel  into  the  hole  of 
every  peach,  before  you  put  them  into  the  jars. 
Large  fruit  will  keep  best  in  broad  shallow 
Blone  pots. 


PRESERVED  CRAB  APPLES. 

Wash  your  fruit.  Cover  the  bottom  of 
your  preserving  kettle  with  grape  leaves. 
Put  in  the  apples.  Hang  them  over  the 
fire,  with  a  very  little  water,  and  cover 
them  closely.  Do  not  allow  them  to  boil, 
but  let  them  simmer  gently  till  they  are  yel- 
low. Take  them  out,  and  spread  them  on 
a  large  dish  to  cool.  Pare  and  core  them. 
Put  them  again  into  the  kettle,  with  fresh 
vine-leaves  under  and  over  them,  and  a 
very  little  water.  Hang  them  over  the 
fire  till  they  are  green.  Do  not  let  them 
boil. 

Take  them  out,  weigh  them,  and  allow  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar  to  a  pound  of  crab- 
apples.  Put  to  the  sugar  just  water  enough 
to  dissolve  it.  When  it  is  all  melted,  put 
it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  and  skim  it.  Then 
put  in  your  fruit,  and  boil  the  apples  till 
they  are  quite  clear  and  soft.  Put  them 
in  jars,  and  pour  the  warm  liquor  over 
them.  When  cold,  tie  them  up  with  bran- 
dy paper. 


PRESERVED  PLUMS. 

Cut  your  plums  in  half,  (they  must  not 
be  quite  ripe,)  and  take  out  the  stones. 
Weigh  the  plums,  and  allow  a  pound  of 
loaf-sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Crack  the 
stones,  take  out  tlie  kernels  and  break  them 
in  pieces.  Boil  the  plums  and  kernels  very 
slowly  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  in  as  little 
water  as  possible.  Then  spread  them  on 
a  large  disli  to  cool,  and  strain  the  liquor. 

Next  day  make  your  sirup.  Melt  the 
sugar  in  as  little  water  as  will  suffice  to 
dissolve  it,  (about  a  gill  of  water  to  a 
pound  of  sugar)  and  boil  it  a  few  minutes, 
skimming  it  till  quite  clear.  Then  put  in 
your  plums  with  the  liquor,  and  boil  them 
fifteen  minutes.  Put  tliem  in  jars,  pour 
the  juice  over  them  warm,  and  tie  them 
up,  when  cold,  with  brandy  paper. 

Plums  for  common  u.~e,are  very  good  done 
in  molasses.  Put  your  plums  into  an  earthen 
vessel  that  hohls  a  gallon,  having  first  slit 
each  plum  widi  a  knife.  To  three  quarts 
of  plums  put  a  pint  of  molasses.  Cover 
them  and  set  them  on  hot  coals  in  the 
chimney  corner.  Let  them  stew  for  twelve 
hours  or  more,  occasionally  stirring  them, 
and  renewing  the  coals.  Next  day  put 
them  up  in  jars.  Done  in  this  manner 
ihey  will  keep  till  the  next  spring. 

Sirups  may  be  improved  in  clearness, 
by  adding  to  the  dissolved  sugar  and  water, 
some  white  of  egg  very  well  l>eaten,  allow- 
ing the  white  of  one  egg  to  two  pounds  of 
sugar.  Boil  it  very  hard,  (adding  the 
egg-shells)  and  skim  it  well,  that  it  may 
be  quite  clear  before  you  put  in  your  fruit. 


32 


SWEETMEATS. 


PRESERVED  STRAWBERRIES. 

Weigh  the  strawberries  after  you  have 
picked  off  the  stems.  To  each  pound  of 
fruit  allow  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar,  which 
must  be  powdered.  Strew  half  of  the  su- 
gar over  the  strawberries,  and  let  them 
stand  in  a  cold  place  two  or  three  hours. 
Then  put  them  in  a  preserving  kettle  over 
a  slow  fire,  and  by  degrees  strew  on  the 
rest  of  the  sugar.  Boil  tliem  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  and  skim  them  well. 

Put  them  in  wide-mouthed  bottles,  and 
when  cold,  seal  the  corks. 

If  you  wish  to  do  them  whole,  take  them 
carefully  out  of  the  sirup,  (one  at  a  time) 
while  boiling.  Spread  them  to  cool  on 
large  dishes,  not  letting  the  strawberries 
touch  each  other,  and  when  cool,  return 
them  to  the  sirup,  and  boil  them  a  little 
longer.     Repeat  this  several  times. 

Keep  the  bottles  in  dry  sand,  in  a  place 
that  is  cool  and  not  damp. 

Gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  cher- 
ries and  grapes  may  be  done  in  the  same 
manner.  The  stones  must  be  taken  from 
jfc;..  the  cherries  (which  should  be  morellas,  or 
rt*-  the  largest  and  best  red  cherries ; )  and  the 
seeds  should  be  extracted  from  the  grapes 
withthesharppointof  a  penknife.  Goose- 
berries, grapes,  and  cherries,  require  long- 
er boiling  than  strawberries,  raspberries  or 
currants. 


PRESERVED    CRANBERRIES. 

Wash  your  cranberries,  weigh  them,  and 
to  each  pound  allow  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar. 
Dissolve  the  sugar  in  a  very  little  water, 
(about  a  gill  of  water  to  a  pound  of  sugar) 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  preserving  kettle. 
Boil  it  nearly  ten  minutes,  skimming  it 
well.  Then  put  in  your  cranberries,  and 
boil  them  slowly,  till  they  are  quite  soft, 
and  of  a  fine  colour. 

Put  them  warm  into  your  jars  or  glasses, 
and  tie  them  up  with  brandy  paper,  when 
cold. 

All  sorts  of  sweetmeats  keep  better  in 
glasses,  than  in  stone  or  earthen  jars. 
\Vhen  opened  for  use,  they  should  be  tied 
up  again  immediately,  as  exposure  to  the 
air  spoils  thetn. 

Common  glass  tumblers  are  very  conve- 
nient for  jellies,  and  preserved  small  fruit. 
White  jars  are  better  than  stone  or  earth- 
en, for  large  fruit. 


PRESERVED  PUMPKIN. 

Cut  slices  from  a  fine  high-colored  pump- 
kin, and  cut  the  slices  into  chips  about  the 
thickness  of  a  dollar.     The  chips  should 


be  of  an  equal  size,  six  inches  in  length, 
and  an  inch  broad.  Weigh  them,  and  al- 
low to  each  pound  of  pumpkin  chips,  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar.  Have  ready  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  fine  lemons,  pare  off  the 
yellow  rind,  and  lay  it  aside.  Cut  the 
lemons  in  half,  and  squeeze  the  juice  into 
a  bowl.  Allow  a  gill  of  juice  to  each  pound 
of  pumpkin. 

Put  the  pumpkin  into  a  broad  pan  laying 
the  sugar  among  it.  Pour  the  lemon-juice 
over  it.  Cover  the  pan,  and  let  the  pump- 
kin chips,  sugar  and  lemon-juice,  set  all 
night. 

Early  in  the  morning  put  the  whole  into 
a  preserving  pan,  and  boil  all  together 
(skimming  it  well)  till  tlie  pumpkin  be- 
comes clear  and  crisp,  but  not  till  it  breaks. 
It  should  have  the  appearance  of  lemon- 
candy.  You  may  if  you  choose,  put  some 
lemon-peel  with  it,  cut  in  very  small  pieces. 

Half  an  hour's  boiling  (or  a  little  more) 
is  generally  sufficient. 

When  it  is  done,  take  out  the  pumpkin, 
spread  it  on  a  large  dish,  and  strain  the 
sirup  through  a  bag.  Put  the  pumpkin 
into  your  jars  or  glasses,  pour  the  sirup 
over  it,  and  tie  it  up  with  brandy  paper. 

If  properly  done,  this  is  a  very  fine 
sweetmeat.  The  taste  of  the  pumpkin 
\\  ill  be  lost  in  that  of  the  lemon  and  sugar, 
and  the  sirup  is  particularly  pleasant.  It 
is  eaten  without  cream,  like  preserved 
ginger.  It  may  be  laid  on  puff-paste  shells, 
after  they  are  baked. 


RASPBERRY  JAM. 

Allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of 
fruit.  Mash  the  raspberries  and  put  them 
with  the  sugar  into  your  preserving-kettle. 
Boil  it  slowly  for  an  hour,  skimming  it 
well.     Tie  it  up  with  brandy  paper. 

All  jams  are  made  in  the  same  manner. 


PRESERVED  PINE-APPLE. 

Pare  your  pine-apples,  and  cut  them  in 
thick  slices  taking  out  the  core.  Weigh 
the  slices  and  to  eacli  pound  allow  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  a  verj 
small  quantity  of  water,  stir  it,  and  set  it 
over  the  fire  in  a  preserving-kettle.  Boil 
it  ten  minutes,  skimming  it  well.  Then 
put  in  it  the  pine-apple  slices,  and  boil 
them  till  they  are  clear  and  soft,  but  not 
till  they  break.  About  half  an  hour  (or 
perhaps  less  time)  will  suffice.  Let  them 
cool  in  a  large  dish  or  pan,  before  you  put 
them  into  your  jars,  which  you  must  do 
carefully,  lest  they  break.  Pour  the  sirup 
over  them.   Tie  them  up  with  brandy  paper. 


SWEETMEATS. 


ANOTHER  WAY  OF  PRESERVING 
PINE-APPLES. 

Having  pared  your  pine-apples,  slice 
thern  and  take  out  the  core  from  the  noid- 
dle  of  each  slice,  leaving  a  round  hole. 
To  each  pound  of  pine-apple  allow  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar.  Mix  half  the  sugar  with 
the  pine-apple,  and  let  them  lie  in  it  all 
night,  or  for  several  hours,  to  extract  the 
juice.  Then  mix  them  with  the  remaining 
half  of  the  sugar,  and  put  the  whole  into  a 
preserving-kettle.  Boil  it  till  they  are 
clear  and  tender,  but  not  till  the  slices 
break.  Skim  it  well.  Set  it  away  to 
cool,  and  then  put  it  into  large  glass-jars 
tied  up  with  brandy-paper. 


but  will  be  tough  and  ropy:  and  must  be 
boiled  over  again. 

While  boiling,  stir  it  frequently,  and 
take  care  that  it  does  not  burn.  After  it 
has  boiled  about  two  hours  and  a  half,  stir 
in  the  lemon-juice  or  the  essence  of  lemon. 
It  will  be  improved  by  adding  the  yellow 
rind  of  the  lemon,  grated  so  fine  as  not  to 
be  visible  when  boiled.  If  the  lemon  is 
put  ill  too  soon,  all  the  taste  will  be  boiled 
out. 


MOLASSES  CANDY. 

Two  quarts  of  West  India  Molasses. 
One  pound  of  brown  sugar. 
The  juire  of  two   large  lemons,  or  a   tea- 
spoonful  of  strong  essence  of  lemon. 


Mix  together  the  molasses  and  sugar — 
taking  care  to  use  West  India  Molasses, 
which  for  this  purpose  is  much  the  best. 

Put  the  mixture  into  a  preserving-kettle, 
and  boil  it  for  three  houis  over  a  moderate 
fire.  When  it  is  thoroughly  done,  it  will 
of  itself  cease  boiling.  If  sufficiently  boil- 
ed, it  will  be  crisp  and  brittle  when  cold. 
If  not  boiled  enough,  it  will  never  congeal, 


When  it  is  quite  done,  butter  a  square 
tin  pan  and  pour  the  mixture  into  it  to  cool. 
If  you  prefer  it  with  ground  nuts,  roast 
a  quart  of  them,  and  then  shell  and  blanch 
them.     Stir  the  ground-nuts  into  the  mix- 
ture, a  few  minutes  before  you  take  it  from 
the  fire.     Stir  them  in  gradually.     In  the 
same   manner  you  may  make  it  with  al- 
monds.    The  almonds   must  be  blanched, 
cut  in  pieces  and  stirred  in  raw,  when   the 
molasses  and  sugar  have  just  done  boiling. 
If  you  wish  to  make  it  yellow,  take  some 
out  of  the  tin  pan  while  it  is  yet  warm,  and 
pull  it  out  into  a  thick  string  between  the 
thumb  and  fore-finger  of  both  hands.     Ex- 
tend your  arms  widely  as  you  pull  the  candy 
back  and  forwards.     By  repeating  this  for 
a   long  time  it  will  gradually  become  of  a 
I  light  yellow  color,  and  of  a  spongy  consist- 
I  ence.     When  it  is  quite  yellow,  roll  it  into 
;  sticks;   twist  two  sticks  together,  and  cut 
j  them  off  smoothly  at  both  ends.     Or,  you 
j  may  variegate   it   by  twisting  together  a 
I  stick  that  is  quite  yellow  and  one  that,  not 
\  having  been  so  much  pulled,  still  remains 
!  brown. 


OYSTERS. 


SPICED  OYSTERS. 

Two  hundred  large  fresh  oysters. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  strong  vinegar. 

A  nutmeg,  grated. 

Three  dozen  of  cloves,  whole. 

Eight  blades  of  mace,  whole. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt  if  the  oysters  are 

fresh. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  whole  allspice. 
As  much  cayenne  pepper  as  will  lie  on   the 
)  point  of  a  knife. 

Put  the  oysters,  with  their  liquor,  into 
a  large  earthen  pitcher.  Add  to  them  the 
vinegar  and  all  the  other  ingredients.  Stir 
all  well  together.  Set  them  in  the  stove, 
or  over  a  slow  fire,  keeping  them  covered. 
Take  them  off  the  fire  several  times,  and 
stir  them  to  the  bottom.  As  soon  as  they 
boil  completely  they  are  sufficiently  done ; 
if  they  boil  too  long  they  will  be  hard. 

Pour   thern  directly   out   of  the  pitcher 


into  a  pan,  and  set  them  away  to  cool. 
They  must  not  be  eaten  till  quite  cold,  or 
indeed  till  next  day. 

If  you  wish  to  keep  them  a  week,  put  a 
smaller  quantity  of  spice,  or  they  will  taste 
too  much  of  it  by  setting  so  long.  Let 
them  be  well  covered. 

Oysters  in  the  shell  may  be  kept  all  win- 
ter by  laying  them  in  a  heap  in  the  cellar, 
with  the  concave  side  upwards  to  hold  in 
the  li(|Uor.  Sprinkle  them  every  day  with 
id  water,  and  then  with  Indian 


strong  salt  and 
meal.     Cover   then: 
old  carpet. 


with   matting   or  ao 


STEWED  OYSTERS. 

Open  the  oysters  and  strain  the  liquor. 
Put  to  the  liquor  some  grated  stale  bread, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  nutmeg,  adding  a 
glass  of  white  wine.  Boil  the  liquor  with 
these  ingredients,  and  then  pour  it  scalding 


34 


OYSTERS. 


hot  over  the   dish  of  raw   oysters.     This 
will  cook  iheni  sufficiently. 

Have  ready  some  slices  of  buttered  toast 
with  the  crust  cut  off.  When  the  oysters 
are  done,  dip  the  toast  in  the  liquor,  and 
lay  the  pieces  round  the  sides  and  in  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  dish.  Pour  the  oysters 
and  liquor  upon  the  toast,  and  send  them 
to  table  hot. 


OYSTER  SOUP. 

Three  pints  of  large  fresh  oysters. 

Two    table-spoonfuls   of  butter,    rolled  in 

flour. 
A  bunch  of  sweet  herbs. 
A  saucer  full  of  chopped  celery. 
A  quart  of  rich  milk. 
Pepper  to  your  taste. 

Take  the  liquor  of  three  pints  of  oysters. 
Strain  it,  and  set  it  on  the  fire.  Put  into 
it,  pepj:>er  to  your  taste,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  marjoram  and  other  pot-herbs,  with 
a  saucer  full  of  chopped  celery.  When  it 
boils,  add  a  quart  of  rich  milk — and  as 
soon  as  it  boils  again,  take  out  the  herbs, 
and  put  in  the  oysters  just  l)efore  you  send 
it  to  table.  Boiling  them  in  the  soup  will 
shrivel  them  and  destroy  their  taste.  Leave 
in  the  celery.  Toast  several  slices  of  bread. 
Cut  them  into  small  squares,  and  put  them 
into  the  soup  before  it  goes  to  table. 


ANOTHER  WAY  OF  STEWING 
OYSTERS. 

Strain  all  the  liquor  from  the  oysters, 
and  thicken  the  liquor  with  stale  bread 
grated  (which  is  much  better  than  flour) 
some  whole  pepper,  and  some  mace.  Grate 
some  nutmeg  into  it.  Boil  the  liquor  with- 
out the  oysters, — adding  a  piece  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour. 

Lay  a  slice  of  buttered  toast  in  the  bot- 
tom of  a  deep  dish,  and  surround  the  sides 
vvith  small  slices  cut  into  three  corner  or 
pointed  pieces.  All  the  crust  must  be  cut 
off  from  the  toast. 

Put  the  raw  oysters  into  the  dish  of  toast, 
and  when  the  liquor  has  boiled  hard,  pour 
it  scalding  hot  over  them.  Cover  the  dish 
closely,  and  let  it  set  for  five  minutes  or 
more,  before  you  send  it  to  table.  This 
will  cook  the  oysters  sufticiently,  will  swell 
them  to  a  larger  size,  and  cause  them  to 
retain  more  of  their  flavor  than  when  stew- 
ed in  the  liquor. 

Take  care  not  to  make  it  too  thick  with 
the  grated  bread. 


FRIED  OYSTERS. 

For  frying,  choose  the  largest  and  finest 
oysters.  Beat  some  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
mix  with  them  grated  bread,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  beaten  nutmeg  and  mace  and  a 
little  salt.  Having  stirred  this  batter  well, 
dip  your  oysters  into  it,  and  fry  them  in 
lard,  till  they  are  of  a  light  brown  color. 
Take  care  not  to  do  them  too  much.  Serve 
them  up  hot. 

For  grated  bread,  some  substitute  crack- 
ers pounded  to  a  powder,  and  mixed  with 
yolk  of  egg  and  spice. 


BAKED  OR  SCOLLOPED  OYSTERS. 

Grate  a. small  loaf  of  stale-bread.  But- 
ler a  deep  dish  well,  and  cover  the  sides 
and  bottom  with  bread  crums.  Put  in 
half  the  oysters  with  a  little  mace  and  pep- 
per. Cover  them  with  crums  and  small 
bits  of  butter  stiewed  over  them.  Then 
put  in  the  remainder  of  the  oysters.  Sea- 
son them.  Cover  them  as  before  with 
crums  and  butter.  If  the  oysters  are 
fresh,  pour  in  a  little  of  the  liquor.  If 
they  are  salt,  substitute  a  little  water. 
Bake  them  a  very  short  time.  You  may 
cook  them  in  the  small  scolloped  dishes 
made  for  the  purpose. 


OYSTER-SAUCE. 

When  your  oysters  are  opened,  take  care 
of  all  the  liquor,  and  give  them  one  boil 
in  it.  Then  take  the  oysters  out,  and  put 
to  the  liquor  three  or  four  blades  of  mace. 
Add  to  it  some  n)elted  butter,  and  some 
thick  cream  or  rich  milk.  Put  in  your 
oysters  and  give  them  a  boil.  As  soon  as 
they  come  to  a  boil,  take  them  off"  the  fire. 


PICKLED  OYSTERS. 

Four  hundred  large  fresh  oysters. 

A  pint  of  vinegar. 

Eight  spoonfuls  of  salt. 

A  pint  of  white  wine. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  whole  black  pepper,. 

Eight  blades  of  mace. 

Strain  the  liquor  of  the  oysters  and  boil 
it.  Then  pour  it  hot  over  the  oysters,  and 
let  them  lie  in  it  about  ten  minutes.  Then 
take  them  out,  and  cover  them.  Boil  the 
liquor  with  the  salt,  pepper,  mace,  vinegar 
and  wine.  When  cold,  put  the  oysters  in 
a  close  jar,  and  pour  the  liquor  over  them. 
Cover  the  jar  very  tight,  and  the  oysters 
will  keep  a  long  time. 

If  the  oysters  are  salt,  put  no  salt  to  tjhe 
liquor,  .    *^ 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


35 


TERRAPINS. 

Having  boiled  your  terrapins  for  ten 
minutes,  take  them  out  of  tlie  water  and 
pull  off  the  outer  shell.  Then  boil  them 
again,  till  the  claws  become  tender. 

Afterwards  take  them  out  of  the  inner 
shell,  and  be  careful  not  to  break  the  gall, 
which  must  be  taken  from  the  liver  and 
thi-own  away:  likewise  throw  away  the 
spongy  part;   all  the  rest  being  fit  to  eat. 

Cut  the  terrapins  into  small  pieces,  put 
them  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  little  salt, 
cayenne  pepper,  and  some  butter.  After 
they  have  stewed  a  few  minutes  in  the  but- 
ter, pour  in  a  very  small  quantity  of  water, 
in  the  proportion  of  a  wine-glass- full  to 
each  terrapin. 

When  tliey  have  stewed  about  ten  min- 
utes, add  some  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
a  glass  of  white  wine  to  each  terrapin,  and 
let  them  stew  five  minutes  longer.  Then 
take  them  from  the  fire. 

Have  ready  some  beaten  yolk  of  egg 
(allowing  one  yolk  for  two  terrapins)  stir 
it  in,  cover  the  pan  tightly,  let  it  set  for 
five  or  six  minutes,  then  put  it  into  a  tur- 
een or  deep  dish  and  send  it  to  table. 


A-LA-MODE  BEEF. 

A  round  of  fresh  beef  weighing  from  eight- 
een to  twenty  pounds. 

A  pound  of  the  fat  of  bacon  or  corned  pork. 

The  marrow  from  the"! 

bone  of  the  beef,  ,  ,  , 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  ^  chopped  together. 

of  beef-suet,  J 

Two  bundles  of  pot  herbs,  parsley,  thyme, 
small  onions,  &c.  chopped  fine. 

Two  large  bunches  of  ^    sufficient   when 
sweet  marjoram,         f  powdered  to  make 

Two  bunches  of  sweet    f  four    table-spoon- 
basil,  J  fuls  of  each. 

Two  large  nutmegs,         )  i      . 

Hir       °  r   ,  >  beaten  to  a  pow- 

all  an  ounce  ol  cloves,  c  ,        *^ 

Half  an  ounce  of  mace. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Two  glasses  of  Madeira  wine. 

If  your  a-la-mode  beef  is  to  be  eaten 
cold,  prepare  it  three  days  before  it  is 
wanted. 

Take  out  the  bone.  Fasten  up  the  open- 
ing with  skewers,  and  tie  the  meat  all 
round  with  tape.  Rub  it  all  over  on  both 
sides  with  salt.  A  large  round  of  beef 
will  lie  more  tender  than  a  small  one. 

Chop  the  marrow  and  suet  together. 
Pound  the  spice.  Chop  the  pot-herbs  very 
fine.  Pick  the  sweet  marjoram  and  sweet 
basil  clean  from  the  stalks,  and  rub  the 
leaves  to  a  powder.  You  must  have  at 
least  four  table-spoonfuls  of  each.     Add  the 


pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  well  together  all 
the  ingredients  that  compose  the  seasoning. 

Cut  the  fat  of  the  bacon  or  pork  into 
pieces  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick 
and  two  inches  long.  With  a  sharp  knife 
make  deep  incisions  all  over  the  round  of 
beef  and  very  near  each  other.  Put  first 
a  little  of  the  seasoning  into  each  hole, 
then  a  slip  of  the  bacon  pressed  down  hard 
and  covered  with  more  seasoning.  Pour 
a  little  wine  into  each  hole. 

When  you  have  thus  stuffed  the  upper 
side  of  the  beef,  turn  it  over  and  stuff  in 
the  same  manner  the  under  side.  If  the 
round  is  very  large,  you  will  require  a 
larger  quantity  of  seasoning. 

Put  it  in  a  deep  baking  dish,  pour  over 
it  some  wine,  cover  it,  and  let  it  set  till 
next  morning.  It  will  be  much  the  better 
for  lying  all  night  in  the  seasoning. 

Next  day  put  a  little  water  in  the  dish, 
set  it  in  a  covered  oven,  and  bake  or  stew 
it  gently  for  twelve  hours  at  least,  or  more 
if  it  is  a  large  round.  It  will  be  much 
improved  by  stewing  it  in  lard.  Let  it  re- 
main all  night  in  the  oven. 

If  it  is  to  be  eaten  hot  at  dinner,  put  it 
in  to  stew  the  evening  before,  and  let  it 
cook  till  dinner-time  next  day.  Stir  some 
wine  and  a  beaten  egg  into  the  gravy. 

If  brought  to  table  cold,  cover  it  all  over 
with  green  parsley,  and  stick  a  large  bunch 
of  something  green  in  the  centre. 

What  is  left  will  make  au  excellent  hash 
the  next  day. 


A  BONED  TURKEY. 

A  large  turkey. 

Three  sixpenny  loaves  of  stale  bread. 

One  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

Four  eggs. 

One  bunch  of  pot-herbs,  parsley,  thyme, 

and  little  onions. 
Two  bunches  of  sweet  marjoram. 
Two  bunches  of  sweet  basil. 
Two  nutmegs.  j  ,    , 

Half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  i  pounded 

A  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,    ^ 
A  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
A  table-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Skewers,  tape,  needle,  and  coarse  thread 
will  be  wanted. 

Grate  the  bread,  and  put  the  cnists  in 
water  to  soften.  Then  break  them  up 
small  into  the  pan  of  crumbled  bread.  Cut 
up  a  pound  of  butter  in  the  pan  of  bread. 
Rub  the  herbs  to  powder,  and  have  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sweet  marjoram  and  two 
of  sweet  basil,  or  more  of  each  if  the  tur- 
key is  very  large.  Chop  the  pot-herbs, 
and  pound  the  spice.  Then  add  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  mix  all  the  ingredients 
well  together.     Beat  slightly  four  eggs,  and 


36 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


mix  them  with  the  seasoning  and  bread 
crums. 

After  the  turkey  is  drawn,  take  a  sharp 
knife  and,  beginning  at  the  wings,  care- 
fully separate  tlie  flesh  from  the  bone,  scrap- 
ing it  down  as  you  go;  and  avoid  tearing 
or  breaking  the  skin.  Next,  loosen  the 
flesh  from  the  breast  and  back,  and  then 
from  the  thighs.  It  requires  great  care 
and  patience  to  do  it  nicely.  When  all  the 
flesh  is  thus  loosened,  take  tlie  turkey  by 
the  neck,  give  it  a  pull,  and  the  skeleton 
will  come  out  entire  from  the  flesh,  as 
easily  as  you  draw  yoin"  hand  out  of  a  glove. 
The  flesh  will  then  be  a  shapeless  mass. 
With  a  needle  and  thread  mend  or  sew  up 
any  holes  that  may  be  found  in  the  skin. 

Take  up  a  handful  of  the  seasoning, 
squeeze  it  hard  and  proceed  to  stuff  the 
turkey  with  it,  beginning  at  the  wings, 
next  to  the  body,  and  tlien  the  thighs. 

If  you  stuff"  it  properly,  it  will  again 
assume  its  natural  shape.  Stuff'  it  very 
hard.  When  all  the  stalling  is  in,  sew  up 
the  breast,  and  skewer  the  turkey  into  its 
proper  form,  so  that  it  will  look  as  if  it  had 
not  been  boned. 

Tie  it  round  with  tape  and  bake  it  three 
hours  or  more.  Make  a  gravy  of  the  gib- 
lets chopped,  and  enrich  it  witli  some  wine 
and  an  egg. 

If  the  turkey  is  to  be  eaten  cold,  drop 
spoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly  all  over  it, 
and  in  the  dish  round  it. 

A  large  fowl  may  be  boned  and  stuffed 
in  the  same  manner. 


COLLARED  PORK. 
A  leg  of  fresh  pork,  not  large. 
Two  table'spoonfuls  of  powdered  sage. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  ^ 

sweet  marjoram,  1  ,       , 

One    table-spoonfJl   of    [  Powdered. 

sweet  basil,  J 

A  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  •\ 
Half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  >  powdered. 

Two  nutmegs,  ^ 

A  bunch  of  pot-herbs,  chopped  small. 
A  sixpenny  loaf  of  stale  bread,  grated. 
Half  a  pound  of  butter,  cut  into  the  bread. 
Two  eggs. 

A  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
A  table-spoonful  of  black  pepper. 

Grate  the  bread,  and  having  softened 
the  crust  in  water,  mix  it  w  ith  the  cruins. 
Prepare  all  the  other  ingredients,  and  mix 
them  well  with  the  grated  bread  and  egg. 

Take  the  bone  out  of  a  leg  of  poik,  and 
rub  the  meat  well  on  both  sides  with  salt. 
Spread  the  seasoning  thick  all  over  the 
meat.  Then  roll  it  up  very  tightly  and  tie 
it  round  with  tape. 

Put  it  into  a  d'^ep  dish  with  a  little  wa- 


ter, and  bake  it  two  houre>  If  eaten  hot; 
put  an  egg  and  some  wine  into  the  gravy. 
VVhen  cold,  cut  it  down  into  round  slices. 


CHICKEN  SALAD. 

Two   large   cold   fowls,    either  boiled    or 

roasted. 
The  yolks  of  nine  hard-boiled  eggs. 
Half  a  pint  of  sweet  oil. 
Half  a  pint  of  vinegar. 
A  gill  of  mixed  mustard. 
A  small  tea-spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper. 
A  small  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  large  heads,  or  four  small  ones,  of 

fine  celery. 

Cut  the  meat  of  the  fowls  from  the  bones, 
in  pieces  not  exceeding  an  inch  in  size. 

Cut  the  white  part  of  the  celery  into 
pieces  about  an  inch  long.  Mix  the  chick- 
en and  celery  well  together.  Cover  them 
and  set  them  away. 

With  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon,  mash 
the  yolks  of  eggs  till  they  are  a  perfectly 
smooth  paste.  Mix  them  with  the  oil, 
vinegar,  mustard,  cayenne,  and  salt.  Stir 
them  for  a  long  time,  till  they  are  thor- 
oughly mixed  and  quite  smooth.  The  long- 
er they  are  stirred  the  better.  When  this 
dressing  is  sufficiently  mixed,  cover  it,  and 
set  it  away. 

Five  minutes  before  the  salad  is  to  be 
eaten  pour  the  dressing  over  the  chicken 
and  celery,  and  mix  all  well  together.  If 
the  dressing  is  put  on  long  before  it  is 
wanted,  the  salad  will  be  tough  and  hard. 

This  salad  is  very  excellent  made  of  cold 
turkey  instead  of  chicken. 

LOBSTER  SALAD. 

Take  two  large  boiled  lobsters.  Extract 
all  the  meat  from  the  shell,  and  cut  it  up 
into  very  small  pieces. 

For  lobster  salad,  you  must  have  lettuce 
instead  of  celery.  Cut  up  the  lettuce  as 
small  as  possible. 

Make  a  dressing  as  for  a  chicken-salad, 
with  the  yolks  of  nine  hard-boiled  eggs, 
half  a  pint  of  sweet  oil,  half  a  pint  of  vin- 
egar, a  gill  of  mustard,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
cayenne,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt.  Mix 
all  well  together  witii  a  wooden  spoon. 

A  few  minutes  before  it  is  to  be  eaten, 
pour  tlie  dressing  over  the  lobster  and  let 
tuce,  and  mix  it  very  well. 

STEWED  MUSHROOMS. 

Take  a  quart  of  fresh  mushrooms.  Peel 
them  and  cut  pff  the  stems.  Season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Put  them  in  a 
sauce-pan  or  skillet,  with  a  lump  of  fresh 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  sufficient 
cream  or  rich  milk  to  cover  them.  Put  on 
the  lid  of  the  pan,  and  stew  the  mushrooms 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


37 


about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  keeping  them 
well  covered  or  the  flavor  will  evaponite. 

When  you  take  theui  off  I  he  fire,  have 
ready  one  or  two  beaten  eggs.  Stir  the 
eggs  gradually  into  the  stew,  and  send  it 
to  table  in  a  covered  dish. 


TOMATA  KETCHUP. 

Slice  the  tomatas.  Put  them  in  layers 
into  a  deep  earthen  pan,  and  sprinkle  every 
layer  with  salt.  Let  them  stand  in  this 
state  for  twelve  hours.  Then  put  them 
over  the  fire  in  a  preserving-kettle,  and 
simmer  them  till  they  are  quite  soft.  Pour 
them  into  a  thin  linen  bag,  and  squeeze  the 
juice  from  them.  Season  the  liquor  to 
your  taste,  with  grated  horse-radish,  a  little 
garlic,  some  mace,  and  a  few  cloves.  Boil 
it  well  with  these  ingredients — and,  when 
cold,  bottle  it  for  use. 

PEACH  CORDIAL. 

Take  a  peck  of  cling-stone  peaches  J 
such  as  come  late  in  the  season,  and  are 
very  juicy.  Pare  them,  and  cut  them  from 
the  stones.  Crack  about  half  the  stones 
and  save  the  kernels.  Leave  the  remaind- 
er of  the  stones  whole,  and  mix  them  with 
the  cut  peaches;  add  also  the  kernels. 
Put  the  whole  into  a  wide-moutlied  demi- 
john, and  pour  on  them  two  gallons  of 
double-rectified  whisky.  Add  three  pounds 
of  rock-sugar  candy.  Cork  it  tightly,  and 
set  it  away  for  three  months :  then  "bottle 
it,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  It  will  be  im- 
proved in  clearness  by  covering  the  bottom 
of  a  sieve  with  blotting-paper  (secured  with 
pins)  and  straining  the  cordial  through  it. 


RASPBERRY   CORDIAL. 

To  each  quart  of  raspberries  allow  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar.  Mash  the  raspberries 
and  strew  the  sugar  over  them,  having  first 
pounded  it  slightly,  or  cracked  it  with  the 
rolling-pin.  Let  the  raspberries  and  sugar 
set  till  next  day,  keeping  them  well  cover- 
ed, then  put  them  in  a  tliin  linen  bag  and 
squeeze  out  the  juice  with  your  hands. 
To  every  pint  of  juice  allow  a  quart  of 
double-rectified  whisky.  Cork  it  well, 
and  set  it  away  for  use.  It  will  be  ready 
in  a  few  days. 

Raspberry  Vinegar  (which,  mixed  with 
water,  is  a  pleasant  and  cooling  beverage 
in  warm  weather)  is  made  exactly  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  cordial,  only  substitut- 
ing the  best  white  vinegar  for  the  whisky. 

BLACKBERRY    CORDIAL. 

Take  the  ripest  blackberries.  Masii 
them,  put  them  in  a  linen  bag  and  squeeze 
out  the  juice.  To  every  quart  of  juice  al- 
low a  pound  of  beaten  loaf-sugar.     Put  ilie 


sugar  into  a  large  preserving-kettle,  and 
pour  the  juice  on  it.  When  it  is  all  melted, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  it  to  a  tliin  jelly. 
When  cold,  to  every  quart  of  juice  allow  a 
quart  of  brandy.  Stir  them  well  together, 
and  bottle  it  for  use.     It  will  be  ready  at 


CHERRY   BOUNCE. 

Take  a  peck  of  morella  cherries,  and  a 
I»eck  of  black  hearts.  Stone  the  morellas 
and  crack  the  stones.  Put  all  tlie  cherries 
and  the  cracked  stones  into  a  demi-john, 
with  three  pounds  of  loaf-sugar  slightly 
pounded  or  beaten.  Pour  in  two  gallons 
of  double-rectified  whisky.  Cork  the  de- 
mi-john, and  in  six  months  the  clierry- 
bounce  will  be  fit  to  pour  off  and  bottle  for 
use;   but  the  older  it  is,  the  better. 


GIxNGER  BEER. 

Put  into  a  kettle,  two  ounces  of  powder- 
ed ginger,  (or  more  if  it  is  not  very  strong,) 
half  an  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  two  large 
lemons  cut  in  slices,  two  pounds  of  broken 
loaf-sugar,  and  one  gallon  of  soft  water 
Simmer  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an 
hour.  When  the  liquor  is  nearly  cold,  stir 
into  it  a  large  table-spoonful  of  the  best 
yeast.  After  it  has  fermented,  bottle  it  for 
use. 


YEAST. 

Have  ready  two  quarts  of  boiling  water ; 
put  into  it  a  large  handful  of  hops,  and  let 
them  boil  twenty  minutes.  Sift  into  a  pan 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour.  Strain  the 
liquor  from  the  hops,  and  pour  half  of  it 
over  the  flour.  Let  tlie  other  half  of  the 
liquid  stand  till  it  is  cool,  and  then  pour  it 
gradually  into  the  pan  of  flour,  mixing  it 
well.  Slir  into  it  a  large  tea-cup  full  of 
good  yeast,  (brewer's  yeast  if  you  can  get 
it.)  Put  it  immediately  into  bottles,  and 
cork  it  tightly.  It  will  be  fit  for  use  in  an 
hour.  It  will  be  much  improved  and  keep 
longer,  by  putting  into  each  bottle  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pearl-ash. 


COLOURING   FOR  ICING,  &c. 

To  make  a  red  coloring  for  icing. 
Take  twenty  grains  of  cochineal  powder, 
twenty  grains  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  twen- 
ty grains  of  powdered  alum.  Put  them 
into  a  gill  of  cold  soft  water  and  boil  it, 
very  slowly  till  reduced  to  one  half.  Strain 
it  through  thin  muslin,  and  corkit  up  for 
use.  A  very  small  quantity  of  this  mixture 
will  color  icing  of  a  beautiful  piiik.  With 
pink  icing,  white  nonpareils  should  be  used. 


^oS^I^H^a^^^   LIBRARY 
This  item  is  due  on  ^*e  L^s¥%^% 
and  HOUR  stamped  below. 


mmm  mt  \ 

i^LV 

OCT    11983 

I 

,  ''""-^.:ce;,. 

■     '"'  2  mi 

ary 

'■:                                                  '^OJ 

FEB  2  3  1984  :- 

^P^?olm':?e-A.S2                   Uni?e^s|2cSSr=la 

■4^^' 


% 


.w't* 


